It is quite remarkable for a winery to do everything well. If you have a chance to visit the Novelty Hill-Januik tasting room you will immediately notice the consistency in the quality of wines. That constant level of great wines is something that I have noticed since I first tasted there more than a decade ago. Even now I almost scratch my head as I taste through the lineup, wondering if one wine will miss or won’t show well. Needless to say, that simply does not happen at Novelty Hill-Januik.
At the helm is the father/son team of Mike and Andrew Januik. Andrew is their second generation winemaker. Laid back and easy to talk to, Andrew is focused and as geeky as it comes with his wine knowledge. Mike is a Washington wine legend who is former winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle before starting his own operation. Mike has sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard for many years, as he and Andrew have as good an understanding of the site as anyone. Mike has been making wine from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard since 2002. The vineyard is located in the heart of the proposed Royal Slope AVA and there is certainly a good reason to have this region be a separate AVA. Mike explains why the terroir is quite distinct and notes “I was immediately impressed by the site’s elevation and soils when I first visited in 1999. Unlike other growing regions surrounding the area, Stillwater Creek’s soils are distinguished by a large amount of fractured basalt. At an elevation of 1200-1500 ft., the soils found here are unlike soils deposited by the Great Missoula flood in neighboring appellations, further differentiating the Royal Slope from other vineyards outside the boundaries of the AVA.” He continued “The Stillwater Creek Vineyard was first planted in 2000, and I have worked with thousands of tons of fruit from the vineyard since its first harvest. Merlot and red Rhone varieties – Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre in particular –have an especially distinctive flavor profile that is unique to the Royal Slope. The deep, dark color of the reds is also particularly noteworthy.”
I have visited this dramatic site in the Columbia Valley and I can say that the terroir is really unique. It is hard for me to find a vineyard in the state that produces such a consistently good range of wines from Chardonnay to Roussanne to Merlot, Malbec and even Syrah. Outstanding wines are produced in the Stillwater Creek and my tasting was consistent with my feeling of how great things are achieved from the vineyard, regardless of vintage. Here are my tasting notes from the new release wines by Novelty Hill, featuring the ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard.’
2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Viognier- This cooler site in the Columbia Valley grows a massive range of varietals, including some top notch Viognier. Vanilla cream and lychee combine with shades of banana, and bright starfruit on the palate. With good length, weight and poise this beautiful wine will cellar well the next seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 92
2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Roussanne- The 2019 Roussanne by Novelty Hill is another strong release from this estate. Layers of buttercream and papaya combine with smoky minerals, cantaloupe and shades of Macadamia nut on the palate. With a great combination of weight and acidity, this beautiful wine is singing in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 92
2018 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Chardonnay from this site has gained a sterling reputation over the past decade and this is a gorgeous rendition of this wine from the 2018 vintage. Ripe pear and honeydew melon tones combine with shades of damp earth and flinty undertones on the nose. The palate has great freshness and mouthfeel, with an exceedingly long, mineral and vanilla cream-driven finish. Fantastic to savor in its youth, this outstanding new bottling will cellar well over the next eight to ten years, picking up earthy and nutty tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2028- 92
2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Merlot- The dusting of cocoa powder falling upon ripe Yakima cherry aromatics and tobacco leaf tones all take shape in the glass. The palate has good depth and verve, with ripe dark cherry tones alongside suggestions of sagebrush, coffee grounds and leather on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with great length, this generous, yet well-balanced Merlot will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92
2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding new release wine that has a ways to go in the cellar. Once aroused, this shows off sweet pipe tobacco and dried herbal tones that mingle with the core of dark fruits on the bouquet. The palate shows good depth and freshness with a light salinity that falls over the ripe dark fruits and tobacco leaf flavors. Lithe and vibrant in its youth, this will show well for a decade or more to come. Drink 2020-2030- 92
2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Malbec- There is something I really enjoy about Malbec from this vineyard. It may not be the biggest rendition in the state, but the feeling of balance and varietal typicality that is consistently displayed here is really good. Expect light tannins that line suggestions of violets and dark chocolate shavings mingling with Turkish coffee tones on the palate. Showing great verve, the long finish provides a wonderful crescendo. Drink 2020-2030- 92
2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah immediately gratifies with its smoky aromatics and shades of milk chocolate and menthol on the nose. The palate shows off a silky mouthfeel and good sense of elegance. Medium-bodied, the Syrah shows thyme infused kirsch and coffee ground flavors that combine with minerals and suggestions of smoked pork shoulder on the palate. This is wonderful to savor now as this Syrah will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 92