As I sat across from Veronique on our respective IPhones, I couldn’t help but be impressed with the power of globalization during a pandemic. She was in Bordeaux, I was in Seattle, but we were still able to have a wonderfully meaningful conversation about her historic house and the beautiful wines of Phelan-Segur. For many years I have loved the wines of Chateau Phelan-Segur and have fond memories of those from 1990s, in particular the 1996 and the 1998 Phelan-Segurs being incredible (particularly since ’98 was such a challenge for left bank Bordeauxs).
For those who are less familiar with this estate, Chateau Phelan-Segur has a long history, similar to many Bordeaux properties. The Irishman Bernard Phelan bought both Domaine Le Clos de Garamey in 1805 and Ségur de Cabarnac in 1810. Ironically while living in Ireland, Bernard Phelan was a neighbor and friend of Hugh Barton who started the famed Bordeaux estate, Chateau Leoville-Barton.
Following Phelan’s passing in 1841 the estate combined to form Château Ségur de Garamey, which passed on to his son Frank Phelan, who served as mayor of Saint-Estephe for 30 years. From 1985 to the present, Chateau Phelan-Segur has been owned by the Gardinier Group of Xavier Gardinier, and famed enologist, Michel Rolland is employed as their consulting enologist, first starting in 2006. I have been particularly impressed with the evolution of this house and the wines since Veronique Dausse has been at the helm for a decade. Since that time Phelan-Segur wines have been met with higher critical acclaim than ever. I have really enjoyed their recent releases. The property has a gorgeous setting right on the Gironde river and welcomes guests to taste, with a great culinary experience as well.
Chateau Phélan-Ségur's wine tends to vary in terms of varietal percentages. Typically it is somewhere in the range of near equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (usually slightly more Cabernet Sauvignon) with a small portion of Cabernet Franc. The grapes are initially fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and then aged in oak barriques (50% new) for 18 months prior to bottling. For this special tasting I shared from my cellar the 2005 while I was sent wines from 2011, 2014 and 2016. I loved all three of the wines. The 2005 is really singing with its tertiary tones and is classic with its bell pepper notes that are also present in 2011 but obviously not a part of 2014 or 2016 wines. 2014 and 2016 Phelan-Segur are utterly sensational wines right now. 2016 in particular is shockingly good at the four year mark, with gorgeous layers of dark fruits and really good poise and length. Both the 2014 and 2016 will be particularly long-lived. Learn more about this storied Bordeaux estate at https://www.phelansegur.com/en/ Here are my tasting notes from my 2004-2006 vertical tasting of Chateau Phelan Segur.
2005 Chateau Phelan-Segur- Admittedly this is the first time in several years that I have sampled the 2005 Chateau Phelan-Segur and it remains every bit as good as the last time I tasted this awesome wine. Needing an hour in the decanter to fully evolve, this has a classic left bank nose with red bell pepper and anise that collide with the core of dark currants, graphite and loamy terroir on this gorgeous bouquet. The palate is silky smooth with great verve and freshness. A light dusting of salinity melds with the ripe core of dark fruits, with chocolate and tobacco leaf tones on the palate. Truly gorgeous now at the fifteen year mark, the 2005 Phelan-Segur will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 93
2011 Chateau Phelan-Segur- I am impressed with this showing from a challenging vintage. A bit more aromatically reticent than the ’05, this shows nice wild blackberry and tar tones that mingle with shades of dried sage and pipe tobacco on the nose. The palate is a bit linear with medium bodied blackberry, cassis and anise flavors alongside some red bell pepper and crushed mint tones. Leaner and more angular than the ’05, ’14 and ’16, this is very classic for the vintage.s The freshness suggests this will enjoy another decade, as this is at a good stage already at the nine year mark. Drink 2020-2033- 90
2014 Chateau Phelan-Segur- The 2014 Phelan-Segur is a really gorgeous wine that has some great cellaring potential. Alluring espresso bean and black currants dance with red bell pepper and boysenberry cordial on this heady nose. The palate has a lovely mouthfeel and great veil of tension. Ripe blackberry compote, mocha, exotic spice and loamy terroir all fill the palate. Wonderful so young, the 2014 Phelan-Segur has another fifteen to twenty years of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2038- 93
2016 Chateau Phelan-Segur- The 2016 Phelan-Segur is an outstanding wine from this exciting vintage for the left bank of Bordeaux. Needing a two hour decant to really evolve, the wine shows wonderful violets aromatics that connect with shades of Turkish coffee, blackberry pie and cassis that all meld together in the glass. The palate has a wonderfully seamless mouthfeel, as this glides once on the attack. Layers of black fruits mingle with coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, anise and exotic spices on the palate. The length here adds to the effect. Rich, yet showing great poise, this gorgeous wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2024-2040- 93