Bodega Catena
One of the great stories in Argentinian wine, Catena was first founded in the 19th century by Nicola Catena who journeyed from Italy to Argentina in 1898. Remarkably he is known for planting his first Malbec vineyard back in 1902. Malbec had previously been a blending grape in Bordeaux and Nicola and he saw its potential in high-elevation Mendoza.
Nicola’s grandson, Nicolas, took over the winery in the 1960s but was faced with inflation and political turmoil in Argentina, so he took a job as a visiting economics professor at UC Berkeley. He then came back to Argentina and wanted to focus on the winery, deciding to plant Chardonnay and Malbec at a 5,000 feet elevation. This was an unusual vineyard practice at the time but the risk paid off. Soon Nicolas was crafting incredible wines from these vines that became blind tasted ahead of epic wine projects like Chateau Latour and Opus One.
In 2001 Nicolas' daughter Dr. Laura Catena took over the Research & Development program at Bodega Catena Zapata. An Emergency Room physician, with degrees from Harvard and Stanford, Dr. Laura Catena brought a very strong science background to the family winery's R&D project. She immediately set about working with the high altitude Malbec that her father had planted and has achieved incredible success at the winery since taking over. Dr. Catena is a wonderful person with an incredible mind. She has done wonders for her brand. The wines from Catena have been remarkably consistent since I first started tasting these back in 2003.
The new wines by Catena are incredible across the board. Look to their value driven 2019 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Alta’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which shows great flavor density and polish, with a silky texture. I was blown away with the 2018 Bodega Catena Zapata ’White Bones’ Chardonnay (OB, 96). This was an absolutely epic Chardonnay that shows insanely good terroir with its salty and stony tones. Learn more about these wonderful wines at http://www.catenawines.com Here are the gorgeous new releases from Catena
2020 Catena Chardonnay- The 2020 Catena Chardonnay shows off plenty of underlying minerality, with brioche, green papaya and vanilla cream notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, enjoy this well-balanced effort now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2022-2027- 90
2019 Catena ‘Alta’ Chardonnay- A fabulous wine for the price, the 2019 Catena ‘Alta’ Chardonnay comes from nearly all (80%) the Adrianna Vineyards which is set at 5,000 feet elevation in the Andean foothills, and set on calcareous soils. Stored for 14 months in French oak, this opens with aromas of toasted French bread, salted macadamia nut and suggestions of praline. Finishing very long, this is refined Chardonnay that will refined palates that span the globe. Drink 2022-2032- 93
2018 Catena ‘White Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The complex and highly nuanced 2018 Catena ‘White Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay comes from a select 27 rows within Block 1 of the Adrianna Vineyard which is set on small, oval white stones. Very flinty and salty once on the mouth, the sense of flavor density, viscosity and length really gratifies here. Flavors of salted wet rock, Japanese pear, and lemon rind dusted brioche all parade on the palate. With more air this Chardonnay becomes more and more Chablisesque and novel. Do not serve on the cold side to ensure enjoyment of the expansive range of flavors and aromatics. Drink 2022-2035- 96
2018 Catena ‘White Bones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2018 Catena ‘White Bones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a stunning effort by winemaker Alexander Vigil. The ‘White Bones’ is sourced from select rows in Block 1 of the Adrianna Vineyard, with its rows having calcareous deposits and limestone as well as fossilized animal bones. Once on the nose this takes on layers of diatomaceous earth, lemon meringue, white pepper and shades of cardamom dusted pastry. The finesse is really outstanding here, as is the flavor intensity with its diatomaceous tones and lemon oil notes. Only 12.6% alcohol. Drink 2022-2035- 96
2019 Catena Malbec- Rich and concentrated, showing serious value, the 2019 Catena Malbec delivers violets and black tea aromas with shades of espresso grounds. The palate is soft and beautifully textured, with good weight and a long, black fruit and mineral-driven finish. Drink 2022-2029- 91
2018 Catena ‘Alta’ Malbec- The really good 2018 Catena ‘Alta’ Malbec is a gorgeous, generous effort by winemaker Alexander Vigil. Sourced from from Lot 18 of the Angélica vineyard, Lot 4 of the La Pirámide vineyard, Lot 1 of the Nicasia vineyard, Lot 6 of the Angélica Sur vineyard and Lot 9 of the Adrianna vineyard, this shows off black rose petals with anise, creme de violette and suggestions of Turkish coffee on the nose. The palate shows a light dusting of white pepper alongside a great core of black and blue fruits, with underlying tension. This is just starting to get going and will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2022-2036- 93
2017 Catena ‘River Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Malbec- Inky, dark and brooding, the highly concentrated 2017 Catena ‘River Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Malbec is sourced from a highly stony site in the Adrianna Vineyard that was once an ancient riverbed. The palate is dense and hedonistic with its espresso grounds, black pepper and smoked meat notes alongside blueberry compote. This is rich yet highly refined, beautifully textured Malbec that will surely live on for another two decades. Drink 2022-2042- 97
2017 Catena ‘Mundis Bacillus Terrae Adrianna Vineyard’ Malbec- Coming from this high elevation site, the 2017 Catena ‘Mundis Bacillus Terrae Adrianna Vineyard’ Malbec comes from vines that are set in limestone layers are well-drained and particularly rich in rhizobacteria. The wine was stored for 18 months in French oak prior to bottling and displays a dizzying array of flavors, from blackberry pie and Arabica bean to dark chocolate shavings and scorched earth notes — with hints of wet gravel and blueberry cordial. Complex and delicious to consume now, this will live on for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2022-2040- 96
2017 Catena ‘Fortuna Terrae Adrianna Vineyard’ Malbec- The 2017 ‘Fortuna Terrae’ Malbec comes from vines set in the Adrianna Vineyard which is set on deep loamy soils and is home to many varieties of native grasses. There are light herbal tones on the nose that combine with violets, blackberry cordial and mocha tones. The palate is rich and complex, with great concentration and underlying finesse. Finishing long with boysenberry fruits, black currents and creosote notes, this is rich and highly-structured Malbec that will satisfy over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2038- 96