It is my great pleasure to feature unquestionably one of the great winery projects in North America today. Vigneron Christophe Baron had a strong affinity for animals, as draft horses worked the Champagne vineyards that he and his family resided over. Today we see that childhood inspiration which that led to creating one of the most coveted lineup of wines in the Pacific Northwest, Horsepower Vineyards. In his Walla Walla AVA vineyards his horses help cultivate vineyards ranging from 3,555 to 4,840 vines per acre with as little as 3' x 3' spacing—planted 1 vine per stake, or “sur echalas” in French. I am consistently blown away with the wines that come this profound site in the Walla Walla AVA. The tightly spaced Sur Echalas Vineyard produces wines that show incredible underlying tension. They have been stunning wines regardless of vintage — wines that shine even in the most challenging of conditions. I recently had the great opportunity to taste through the new wines which are made by Bionic Wines Director of Winemaking Elizabeth Bourcier. Bourcier has quickly become one of the most talented winemakers on the west coast.
Speaking with her this summer I asked for her thoughts on the 2020 vintage. Similar to how I tasted, she saw these wines as being deep and concentrated, as well as very texturally gratifying. 2020 has been a very challenging vintage for most producers, with the smoke conditions on harvest. These are unquestionably some of the finest wines from this vintage that I have tasted. In terms of vintage, these wines remind me most of the 2016 vintage, showing slightly less boldness than the 2018s — and track also similarly with the 2014 vintage. They are already stunning to enjoy right now. For those who enjoy the bolder side of Cayuse and Horsepower, these will be absolutely perfect for you. Similar to those wines made in the 2013 vintage, I think there is little reason to cellar these, as the level of tension is already outstanding.
For the 2020 vintage I have only rated two wines 100 points and Horsepower have created a perfect wine once again. The 2020 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache (OB, 100) is nothing short of perfection. Seamless, novel, and stunning with its flavor range, mouth-watering acidity and sterling minerality, if you do not get excited about this wine then you quite honestly don’t have a pulse. Learn more about about these monumental wines at https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/ Here are my reviews of the new 2020 releases by Horsepower Vineyards.
2020 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- The mind-bending 2020 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache is a truly one of a kind bottling from this stony and tightly-spaced plot in Milton-Freewater. Right away layers of seaweed and Hoisin sauce fill the glass, with smoldering stones, red cherry candy and shades of kumquat zest. The stunning aromas bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The soft texture upon entry is simply lovely, as the palate revels in a very bold style of stony Grenache — considerably more full-bodied than the 2019 bottling — but every bit as good. Layers of salted charcuterie, Kalamata olives, asphalt, guava puree and salted Linzer torte all seamlessly come together on the palate. Very clean, salty and stony, this is a generous and fleshy 2020 masterpiece by director of winemaking Elizabeth Bourcier. Savor this beauty now and over the next eight years. Only 300 cases produced, so grab this while you can. Drink 2022-2029- 100
2020 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ Grenache- Now dawning a bright yellow label, the incredible 2020 ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ Grenache comes from this stony site set on silty loam and ancient basalt cobblestones. First planted back in 2015, this was stored for 15 months in all neutral oak before bottling. This is an entirely different animal to the 2019, as this comes off much more Syrah than Grenache upon your first whiff. The nose is intense and wonderfully stony with its smoldering stone profile alongside Provencale herbs, white pepper dusted brisket, black cherry compote and suggestions of Kalmata olive tapenade. The palate exudes class with its gobs of mouth-watering acidity and seamless texture. Tart red fruits parade with volcanic ash, menthol, bergamot, and salty minerals. Considering the challenges of the vintage, this is nothing short of a resounding success. I’m not sure I have had any New World Grenache quite like this, and if I was blinded I am certain I would have guessed Syrah from this region. This is already beautifully evolved, so enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 96
2020 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah- The iutterly gorgeous 2020 ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah its every bit as good as the 2019 bottling. Considering the challenges of the vintage, this is a complete masterpiece by director of winemaking Elizabeth Bourcier. Very compelling aromas of bacon fat, white pepper dusted charcuterie, black truffle crudo and wafts of scorched earth all grace the nose. The palate is seamlessly textured, as this takes on a very Hermitage character with its bulls blood, orange rind, ripe red currant and flinty profile. Give this more air and it becomes more salty and savory with nori and umami notes adding to the incredible flavor complexity. Dense and fat on the mouth, this is very gratifying Syrah to consume now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2033- 99
2020 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah- Now made for several vintages the ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah is sourced from terroir that is set on a combination of ancient cobblestones and silty loam soils. Aged for 15 months in entirely neutral French oak barrels, this displays very rocky soil character once on the nose, with asphalt, salted black olives, dark currants and espresso ground tones on the nose. The palate shows a brilliant underlying freshness once on the mouth, with marionberry and wild blackberry fruit flavors that mingle well with the stony, salty and very savory tones on the palate. With more air the Loess soil character emerges, as this beauty is already drinking marvelously now and will continue to provide enjoyment for another eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 96
2020 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- The beautifully textured and dense 2020 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah is one of the riper renditions of this wine since it was first produced back in 2011. Coming from this stony site which neighbors the En Chamberlin Vineyard, this offers suggestions of black tea, iodine, aged prosciutto, violets, wet gravel and blackberry cordial flavors on the palate, with shades of oyster sauce. Generous and ripe on the mouth, this is decadent and complex Syrah that is great to enjoy right now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 96