Last weekend I underwent an incredible journey back in time to enjoy vintages 2013 and 2009 from the Sparkman Cellars wine library. Accompanied by Sparkman Cellars founder Christian Sparkman as well as winemaker Linn Scott, we were all amazed as we tasted these older wines. One thing we noticed right away was the freshness that was intact in the white wines.
Kelly and Chris Sparkman founded Sparkman Cellars in Woodinville, Washington back in 2004. They started with 12 barrels of wine (289 cases) and three labels in a tiny warehouse. By their third year they had amassed 1425 cases of wine and eight labels. Today they produce over 12,000 cases in their beautiful new location which was formerly the Redhook Brewery in Woodinville.
I loved the white wines of the tasting. Both the 2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling (OB, 92) and the 2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Lumiere’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) were not only very delicious wines but had a great underlying finesse from this warm vintage. Grenache has been one of the most popular wines produced by Sparkman and I adored their 2013 ‘Wonderland’ Grenache (OB, 93) which was still very pure in terms of bright red fruits, and showed a silky texture with good weight. This thing was right in its sweet spot. Syrah is not always a varietal that ages well in Washington. But the 2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Darkness’ Syrah (OB, 93) was extremely finesse-driven with plenty of depth and flavor density. I was amazed by the overall quality of these wines that reminds you that great Washington wine is built to age. Learn more about these outstanding wines at sparkmancellars.com
2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling- The 2013 ‘Birdie’ utilizes Giesenheim 198 and Neustadt 90 clonal selections (two blocks at Bacchus Vineyard), as this was mostly stored in stainless steel tanks before bottling. Very stony, this is showing rich petrol alongside green apple notes on the nose. The palate is very refined and beautifully textured, showing good weight. Enjoy this beauty now. Drink 2023-2028- 92
2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Lumiere’ Chardonnay- Coming from the Stillwater Creek and Oasis Vineyards, the 2013 ‘Lumiere’ offers ripe pear and nutmeg dusted brioche notes alongside shades of marzipan and creme brûlée on the nose. The palate comes off very fresh despite the heat of the vintage. Layers of buttercream and baking spices collide with sourdough bread and lemon meringue all seamlessly come together on the palate. Showing serious weight and length, this is seriously impressive wine that is really peaking right now. Drink 2023-2029- 94
2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘L’Autre’ Pinot Noir- The 2013 ‘L’Autre’ comes from the famed Temperance Hill Vineyard in the Willamette Valley, as this was stored for 16 months in 40% new French oak before bottling. This comes off a touch lean and linear with red cherry, red raspberry and toasty oak flavors. This shows the challenges of the vintage that saw torrential rains at harvest, as it is lacking both depth and flavor density. Drink 2023-2026- 88
2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Wonderland’ Grenache- The 2013 ‘Wonderland’ has 12% Syrah blended in. Aged in 25% new French oak before bottling for 13 months, this offers rich loganberry, Bing cherry cordial and garrigue notes alongside shades of pomegranate seed. The Syrah added adds depth to the mid-palate. Ripe, with good underlying acidity and texture, this is outstanding wine to consume now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 93
2004 Sparkman Cellars ‘Stella Mae’ Syrah- The 100% varietal 2004 ‘Stella Mae’ comes from Red Mountain. Rich and intense, with black olives, black tea, blackberry cobbler and suggestions of creosote, this is a delicious, forward and juicy wine that is beautifully evolved now. Enjoy over the next few years to come. Drink 2023-2028- 92
2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Ruby Leigh’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Ruby Leigh’ is an awesome blend of 70% Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Malbec which was entirely sourced from the Red Mountain AVA. This 2009 is already nicely evolved now at the fourteen year mark. Red currants, pencil lead, toasty oak and wild mushroom tones all come together on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 92
2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Stella Mae’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Stella Mae’ is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc coming from the Klipsun, Kiona and La Coye Vineyards. Aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak, this offers ripe red currants with red rose water, tobacco leaf with good underlying finesse and a soft mouthfeel. Finishing long with minerals, this is delicious to savor right now. Drink 2023-2028- 92
2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Kingpin’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Made from 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Petit Verdot, this comes for the Kiona, Klisun and Double Canyon Vineyards, this was stored for 63% new French oak for 20 months before bottling. Rainier cherry with creosote, menthol and suggestions of exotic spices all come together on the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a silky mouthfeel. Layers of toasty oak bring everything together nicely, as this is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2031- 93
2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Darkness’ Syrah- The 2009 ‘Darkness’ comes form the Ciel du Coeval Vineyard on Red Mountain. Stored for 20 months in 88% new French oak before bottling, this delivers gorgeous dried sagebrush, white pepper and bacon fat tones on the nose alongside rich roasted fig notes. The palate comes off very fresh and shows good depth and finesse, with salty undertones. Considering the age of this wine this offers shocking acidity. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 93
2010 Sparkman Cellars ‘Hallelujah’ Touriga Nacional- Truly a unique dessert wine, the ‘Hallelujah’ is a Touriga Nacional wine that comes from the Red Heaven vineyard on Red Mountain. Blueberry compote, with black licorice, mocha and dried herbs all hit the nose. The palate is plush, showing a soft mouthfeel and shows sweetened blue and black fruits with espresso ground undertones. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 92