Today we share one of the treasures of the Walla Walla Valley. For years I have admired the wines by Gramercy Cellars, one of Washington state’s great producer of Rhone varieties. Gramercy was founded by winemaker and master sommelier, Greg Harrington, MS. He crafts both Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, and sources from some of the top vineyards in the state. He partners with Brandon Moss to create some of the best Rose in the Pacific Northwest.
It is remarkable that Harrington incredibly passed the master sommelier exam at the age of 26. Partner and co-winemaker, Brandon Moss, shares Greg’s focus on prime fruit and minimal intervention, showcasing the typicity of the individual varietal. Regardless of vintages, I am highly impressed with the range of wines that gramercy produces. A prime example of this is how they fared with their Bordeaux varietals in 2019 — a cooler vintage that saw a freeze event in early October. Greg and Brandon’s 2019 Cabernets are marvelous, with refined tannins, beautiful structure and plenty of depth and concentration.
They have crafted an incredible new wine, a Rose made from Mourvèdre. The 2022 Gramercy Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard Rose of Mourvedre’ Rose (OB, 93) is hands down one of the best Rose wines I have tasted this year. I adored the 2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is all about balance and beautiful black fruit flavors with plenty of nuance. Learn more about these amazing wines at gramercycellars.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Gramercy Cellars and the superstar winemaking team of Greg Harrington, MS and Brandon Moss.
2022 Gramercy Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard Rose Of Mourvèdre’ Rose- The 2022 Gramercy Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard Rose Of Mourvèdre’ Rose is a new wine to the portfolio. Unlike their other Rose release, this bottling saw longer barrel age before release. Best served on the warmer side, this shows an incredible texture and sense of weight while maintaining bright underlying acidity. Layers of wild mushroom, citrus blossom water and Yakima cherry combine with red raspberry and salty accents on the palate. With loads of mouth-watering acidity, this is really gorgeous stuff. Drink 2023-2029- 93
2022 Gramercy Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Viognier- The 2022 Gramercy Cellars Viognier comes from this slightly cooler vintage and shows off honeysuckle and bright peach tones on the nose alongside Meyer lemon zest. The palate shows a good amalgamation stuffing and underlying finesse, loaded with juicy kiwi and starfruit flavors, with stony accents. Enjoy now and over the next several years. Only 12.5% alcohol. Drink 2023-2028- 92
2020 Gramercy Cellars ‘L’Idiot du Village’ Mourvedre- Year after year Gramercy Cellars crafts some of the best Mourvèdre in the state. This 2020 edition comes from the Olsen and Alder Ridge Vineyards, showcasing peppered bacon, cigar ash, and shades of dark currants on the nose. A soft texture greets you, as layers of pipe smoke, white pepper, anise and heady dark fruits all collide on the palate. Considering the challenges of the vintage, this is seriously good stuff that is already beautifully evolved. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 93
2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Holly Roller Vineyard’ Syrah- This unbelievably good 2019 Syrah comes from the ‘Holly Roller Vineyard’ which was planted by Chris Figgins and is set on ancient cobblestones. Umami, bacon fat, menthol and charcuterie notes combine with shades of boysenberry on the nose. The palate is soft and seamless with a lovely mouthful, bright acidity and good sense of flavor density. A literal cornucopia of flavors greets you from spicy red peppercorns and allspice to dark currants, pipe tobacco, stony soils and soy sauce rubbed flank steak. This is an incredible wine that is already beautifully evolved so enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 95
2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- The 2019 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah comes from mainly the Les Collines Vineyard and was stored in a tiny amount of new oak before bottling. The wine saw near all whole cluster fermentation and is loaded with crunchy red and dark fruit flavors, with shades of milk chocolate, wet stone and garrigue. 5% Viognier was co-fermented which gives this a lifted presence and gorgeous citrus blossom fragrance prior to enjoying. Drink 2023-2030- 93
2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A killer wine made in a tough vintage for Bordeaux varietals, the 2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is already singing at the four year mark. Once on the nose this takes on layers of cassis and toasty oak alongside chocolate cake and scorched earthy notes. The palate is soft and inviting with a seamless texture and excellent sense of length. Everything is in balance here, with dense black fruits that mingle well with milk chocolate, coffee grounds and pipe tobacco notes. Drink 2023-2035- 94
2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Phinny Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A wine club only bottling, the outstanding 2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Phinny Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from this great windswept site in the Horse Heaven Hills. Sweet tobacco aromatics combine with cardamom, creme de violette and suggestions of freshly tilled soils on the nose. The palate is very inviting and plush with a smooth mouthfeel and excellent length. Already drinking great, this beautifully structured wine is going to have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2023-2038- 94