I am always very excited to taste a winery’s wine for the first time. Two new brands that I had quite literally never heard of until last weekend, Dalset and Sylvi are brands created by Even Johansen, former winemaker at Aquilini. Even is a graduate of the Walla Walla College ecology and viticulture program and has formerly worked for Bergevin Lane and then later Tertulia Cellars, before landing at Aquilini. He then marched on as an intern to Screaming Eagle where he worked with the winemaking team and learned more about making Napa wines. Johansen now serves as assistant winemaker to Seth Kizke at Upsidedown Wines.
I was massively impressed with the new 2019 Sylvi Gruner Veltliner (OB, 92) which is showing amazing texture and weight, with a smooth mouthfeel and serious flavor density. Even better is the flat out delicious 2017 Dalset Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) which is heady and rich, showing off the Red Mountain fruit with plenty of nuance. Learn more about these great new wines at SylviWines.com and here are my reviews of the new Dalset and Sylvi wines.
2018 Sylvi Gruner Veltliner- Stored for seven months in a neutral cigar barrel this offers honeycomb character alongside green papaya and shades of cantaloupe with loads of mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2023-2029- 91
2019 Sylvi Gruner Veltliner- This comes from a site neighboring the Olsen Vineyard. This shows serious nerve with serious texture and fantastic flavor range from cashew nut to peach and green apple. This is just a hare better than the 2018 right now. Drink 2023-2029- 92
2017 Sylvi Syrah- The outstanding and dense 2017 Sylvi Syrah comes from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard and saw extended barrel aging. This is concentrated and layered with black real berry alongside scorched earth and tar notes. This is deep and delicious wine that is showing beautifully now. Drink 2023-2033- 92
2017 Dalset Syrah- Coming from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, this shows plenty of concentration and nerve with tor, black tea, anise and crème de cassis flavors alongside tar accents. Showing fantastic nerve, this is beautiful stuff to enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93
2017 Dalset Cabernet Sauvignon- The seriously good 2017 Dalset Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding effort that is already beautifully evolved. Tannic and heady with beautiful concentration and finesse, this offers black olives and black tea flavors along side shades of creosote, black currants and vibrant minerals. Drink 2023-2035- 93