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Great photo here of legendary winemaker Aurelio Montes of Montes Wines.

Great photo here of legendary winemaker Aurelio Montes of Montes Wines.

Montes

September 15, 2016

While not typically a region that I focus on, I wanted the chance to write about one of the superstar wineries of Chile. Montes has been producing wine since 1987. Founded by Aurelio Montes and Douglas Murray, in 1988, they joined up with the other two founders, Alfredo Vidaurre and Pedro Grand, to found Montes under the name Discover Wine. Montes wines essentially went from nowhere to more than 100 countries worldwide. They have been a huge export hit in North America, with Costco being one of the largest sellers of Montes wines. I’ve had bottlings of their ‘Alpha’ series back roughly 15 years and have been consistently impressed with their quality to price ratio. Some of these Montes Alpha bottlings are in the $15.00 range and tend to exceed the quality of most wines in that price point.

Their current offerings were some excellent values. In particular their 2014 Montes ‘Twins’ Red Blend (WWB, 89) is a ten dollar great value wine that shows nice range and complexity. Their 2013 Montes ‘Alpha’ Cabernet (WWB, 90) shows nice richness and balance that the ‘Alpha’ line is known for. The superstar of the group was the 2010 Montes ‘M’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) which shows incredibly depth, terroir and complexity. Some of these wines can be found at Costco or at large wine shops like Total Wines, BevMo and Esquin. Learn more about Montes at http://www.monteswines.com/. Here are the great new releases by Montes.

2016 Montes 'Cherub' Rose- This wine starts with aromas of rose petals, red cherry, dill and red raspberry. There are bright flavors of guava, pink grapefruit, kumquat and red raspberry. Slightly astringent but lively wine that is perfect for a hot summer day. Drink 2016-2020-89

2016 Montes 'Spring Harvest' Sauvignon Blanc-This wine begins with aromas of white pepper, Serrano pepper, and white peach. This leads to bright flavors of gooseberry, kiwi, white grapefruit and Meyer lemon that sit alongside lively minerality. This is exceedingly refreshing. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2014 Montes 'Classic Series' Merlot-The Merlot has 15% Cabernet blended in for structure.  This wine begins with aromatics of smoked meats, creosote, black olive and black cherry. There are flavors of black cherry, mocha, and black olive and anise. This is a very solid effort from Montes. Drink 2016-2022- 88

2014 Montes 'Twins' Red Blend- This wine is a blend of 35% Cabernet, 30% Syrah, 25% Carmenere and 10% Tempranillo.  The wine begins with aromatics of spicebox, anise, black olive, green bell pepper and blackberry. There are flavors of blackberry, mocha, cassis, and Turkish coffee. This has lovely depth and layers for the price. Drink 2016-2023- 89

2013 Montes Alpha Cabernet-This wine begins with aromatics of anise, pipe tobacco, cassis and blackberry. There are flavors of anise, cassis, wild blackberry pie, and coffee grounds. Really nice balance and structure. Drink 2016-2024- 90

2014 Montes 'Alpha' Pinot Noir- This wine starts with aromatics of smoke, black raspberry, pipe tobacco and suggestions of orange rind. There are bright flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, black truffle and cola with hints of citrus blossoms. Open and balanced, this is a great release from this estate. Drink 2016-2024-90

2010 Montes ‘M’ Red Wine- Aurelio Montes serves as head winemaker on this impressive wine. It is composed of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot from the Apalta estate in the Colchagua Valley which was aged 18 months in new French oak before bottling. The blended elements show through in the profoundly herbaceous aromatics of the wine as it begins with aromas of green bell pepper, Christmas spice, pipe tobacco and anise. In the glass, the wine develops deep favors of anise, spicebox, Turkish coffee and mocha which cascade through this dense, layered wine. This is drinking beautifully right now and should continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade and beyond. Drink 2016-2028- 94 (Reviewed Feb 2016)

 

 

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Great photo here of Structure Cellars owner and head winemaker, Brian Grasso.

Great photo here of Structure Cellars owner and head winemaker, Brian Grasso.

Interview with Brian Grasso, Head Winemaker and Owner of Structure Cellars

September 14, 2016

As you walk into the small and modern SoDo tasting room, you get greeted with a big ‘Hello’ and an electric smile. . . from owner and winemaker, Brian Grasso. Now that is just the tasting room entrance that you would like, coming from an industry that can sometimes push the limits of tasting room austerity. Such is not the case at Structure Cellars. Brian singlehandedly waits on you during your tasting as he encourages you to sit down and relax. While some winemakers prefer to be in the background, Brian prefers the foreground, catering to visitor’s needs. While I was visiting Structure a few weeks back, I had the chance to sit down with Brian and talk wine. He talked about his background in the service industry, and his first jobs in wine. I found him to be an overall awesome guy with a huge passion to produce the best wine possible for a decent price. Here is my interview with Brian Grasso, Owner and Head Winemaker at Structure Cellars.

WWB: What was your first few jobs like in the wine industry? What were some of your early inspirations in wine?

BG: My first introduction to wine was as a server in the restaurant industry.  I was always good at selling just about whatever I believed in.  I remember recommending quite a bit of DeLille, L’Ecole, Dunham, and McCrea wines.  Working with Tim O’Brien at Salty’s on Alki, I began to gain a healthy appreciation for Washington wines.  During the harvest of 2007, I won a wine sales contest that took me to Walter Dacon Winery in Shelton, WA.  I was treated to lunch and plenty of delicious wine.  Later, they even let me do a punch down.  I remember looking around saying “I could do this.”  

WWB: What was it like working at Darby and learning from Darby English?

BG: My first time working in a winery was a bit like being a kid in a candy store. It was so overwhelming that the memory is a bit of a blur. I had only taken one class at South Seattle and didn’t know much. I worked my ass off and hoped to prove myself as a value. The greatest thing I from my experience with Darby was gaining the network of people I was lucky to connect with; Leroy Radford, Erica Orr, Les Baer and Chris & Kelly Sparkman to name a few.

WWB: How did you start Structure Cellars? What was it like making wine at your house?

BG: Launching a winery is not an easy thing but that didn’t really matter to me. Paying for a minimum of 2 years worth of grapes, barrels, racks, and all of the other small costs (that most people don't see) is challenging, especially when you start with very little capital. A tasting room wasn’t possible at that time and that really slowed our early growth.  We relied on one party a year to sell our wine.  That’s how we survived…a small group of people who would later become our treasured “Foundation” Wine Club.

Making wine in our house was not optimum, but it was the ONLY way we could. The benefits outweighed the challenges at that time.  Of course, I did have some “lively” conversations with my wife to convince her to have a winery in the house we had just moved into - and that was a pretty interesting part.  I remember a time when I was able to do punch downs in my basement (while drinking coffee in my boxers) I felt like I had found the coolest thing ever! 

Our basement was a standard size. Literally everything that came into the winery came through a man sized door: empty barrels carried in and juice pumped from our driveway, down the stairs and into the barrels was the only way to get 24 barrels of wine into our small space. I have memories of doing things that now seem almost impossible…but isn’t that the life of a winemaker?

WWB: What are some of your favorite Washington wine producers?

BG: I always wanted to grow up and be DeLille Cellars. I think they do such a great job at providing a nuanced product at every price point. Recently, I found Cairdeas in Lake Chelan, they are making some cool wine over there.  Locally I really respect 8 Bells and Ward Johnson, who for years have consistently been making great wine, all the while being world class gentleman. There is a lot of good wine in Washington State…the wine that’s being made by great people means something to us.

 Charles Smith wasn’t first in the SoDo/Georgetown area, but I admire his willingness to put something big on the map and lead the charge for smaller producers like Bartholomew who is making interesting wine from really unique varieties.

One of the reasons I wanted to make wine is being part of that experience: spectacular wine, good friends and the feelings that make a lasting impression.  Last night, surrounded by friends, we opened a 3 liter bottle of 2006 Spring Valley Frederick.  It was a wedding gift and every last drop was amazing and something I won’t forget. 

WWB: I was very impressed with your Syrah bottlings. What is your approach to making great Syrah? What are some of the challenges in making Syrah from hot vintages like 2014 and 2015?

BG: I super seriously appreciate the question because my passion is Syrah - and it seems like we get our best scores and reviews for our Cabernet Franc (which is my wife Brandee’s passion). I approach Syrah almost the same as all of the other varietals that we play with, and that is really just showcasing what the vineyards create. Our 2014 vintage Syrah is sourced from Stillwater Creek, Destiny Ridge, Upland and Wallula vineyards. We could not be more pleased to be able to showcase how these amazing vineyards grow world class Syrah. Our goal is to not mess up what we get from some of the best dirt guys in the world. The key to making great wine in any vintage for us is to maintain a great relationship with the vineyard managers, lots and lots of communication. I have a tendency to lean slightly towards letting the fruit hang and gain varietal flavor characteristics. It is tricky like rocking a rhyme to balance fruit development and preserving acidity.

 

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Great shot here of head winemaker of Two Vintners and Covington Cellars, Morgan Lee

Great shot here of head winemaker of Two Vintners and Covington Cellars, Morgan Lee

Interview with Morgan Lee, Head Winemaker at Two Vintners and Covington Cellars

September 12, 2016

Trying to track down Morgan Lee during harvest is a challenge. After trying his awesome new release wines, I was finally able to grab him on a drive to Walla Walla where he was traveling check on the vineyards. A highly talented winemaker at Two Vintners Winery, Morgan has roots in the Midwest and was inspired by a wine appreciation class that he enjoyed while attending Purdue University. Previously interning at Columbia Crest, Morgan talked about the process of starting a winery, and discussed details behind fantastic new release wines. I found him incredibly approachable and laid back as he was a delight to talk wine with. Here is my interview with the Morgan Lee, head winemaker of Two Vintners and Covington Cellars.

WWB: How did you first decide to become a winemaker? What were your first inspirations?              

ML: I grew up in the Midwest in Indiana and Purdue has a small enology program. They have a wine appreciation class and seniors took it because Monday night and you can drink in class. But I thought that it was a really fun class and I knew I could learn something from it. I became inspired from this class and I would hang out in the enology lab and ferment things. I also started doing some fermentations in my basement and gave the wine away to friends and family. The wine was made by using ridiculous varietals and the wine had residual sugar but this process of winemaking got me really excited. I took a semester off and the professor of the wine appreciation class, amazingly named Dr. Vine, ended up writing a letter of recommendation to have an internship working a harvest (2005) at a winery in Michigan. At the time I was on the track for culinary school and taking the semester off was great. I loved working in the winery, getting up early and getting dirty. I didn’t have any winemaking formal education so everything I have learned has been hands on. The first harvest in Washington was working an internship at Columbia Crest which is how I ended up in Washington. We decided to leave our families in the Midwest which was a really big change. My job at Columbia Crest was 11 dollars an hour, and we were very isolated moving to the middle of the desert and knowing nobody but the decision to come to Washington really paid off.

WWB: What are some of the biggest challenges with starting Two Vintners?

ML: I was hired at Covington in 2007 and later they partnered with me to start Two Vintners. The winery came naturally to me. I wasn’t initially asking to start a winery but I have always felt that the best and my favorite grapes in Washington are Syrah and Merlot. I think personally think they are the varietals that have the best expression state. At the time Covington didn’t focus on the varietals and I have always some wine on the side but I was thinking that we should be making Merlot and Syrah. There wasn’t initially a name or concept but they thought about it and said I should start my own winery and use the equipment and we will finance you to help get it off the ground. That first vintage was just 300 cases total and it was Syrah, Merlot and the ‘Lola’ red wine. The winery really took off from there.

At the time I thought we were going to keep it mailing list and do small releases. Demand grew and we got the scores and then now seven years later we are up to 4000 something cases. The challenge at the time was that Syrah and Merlot were a hard sell in the industry. These varietals weren’t selling well but they were hiding in the blends. I have seen Syrah turn around in a big way over the years but Merlot still wasn’t really selling well. I feel that it deserves its place and we want to make believers out of people. I have always prided myself in doing things that other people don’t do whether it is experimenting or working with different varietals and fermentation methods. We are always interested in trying to do ridiculous things like crafting one of the only Zinfandels in the state. I think that has been good for the brand as well. I try to be different and I want to have a unique product, which is one of the biggest challenges in the industry today. I have been able to work with some of the best vineyards in the state and the better relationship with the farmer the better fruit you get.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with your 2015 Two Vintners Grenache Blanc (WWB, 91), a wine that shows nice balance from a hot vintage. How were you able to get that nice structure in an extremely hot vintage?

ML: Being so far away firm the vineyard it is hard and you have to get out there and pick all of the time. You need to taste the grapes constantly and I am not really a numbers guy, I am more of a tasting guy. I pick when it tastes right. I have always been one of the first people to pick, no matter what varietal and this was the case with this 2015 Grenache Blanc. The farmer always says that I am a bit early with picking the fruit but you want to get the acid right and the addition of the Roussanne helps. I like the palate of this wine and I have moved to native yeast fermentation which I think that adds to the structure of the wine as well. A little bit of battonage on the lees also adds to the mouthfeel. There is no new wood used in aging but we have utilized two thirds neutral French oak for six months. Those elements help build structure over time with retaining the acid.

WWB: You make a great, one of a kind Zinfandel, as I was extremely impressed with your 2014 Two Vintners Zinfandel (WWB, 92). Can you talk about making this wine and the challenges with making great Zinfandel from Washington?

ML: Zinfandel wasn’t a plan and I was trying to get into the Stonetree Vineyard. I have really enjoyed the fruit from there but the problem is that the farmer is not going to have exactly what you want. That was the case with Stonetree. The farmer had this fruit and I wanted to make the wine. The fruit is really good from this vineyard. I have always liked the Stonetree fruit and we wanted to add the Zin to the lineup. I had no idea what to do with it and I didn’t have any peers to talk to about it because nobody was making it at the time. Zinfandel ripens unevenly even the best years. I have talked to people in California and the problem with the varietal is the ripening. You will have always normal grapes, raisins and green berries in the cluster. I have chose to put everything into fermentation which I have learned over time. The first year when I got the fruit it looked so bad. I was really worried about it. I called on people to help about my concern was that Zinfandel is not pretty fruit and I have learned to embrace that part of Zinfandel. Zin holds its acid and gives you the intense flavors. I think that the 2014 Zinfandel wine turned out great. I am not out to make a dainty Zinfandel and it is a hot weathered fruit that produces some big wine. This has become an important part of my portfolio and I love the challenge in making this wine. I don’t care if somms like it or not, but I love it. There are not many Zins in the state and I am proud that we make the best.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Two Vintners wines, what is in your glass?

ML: If I could choose one wine every day I would choose white wines from Alsace. Those are just thrilling to me. I think that you can get white wines that are that interesting and there is only one place. The funny thing is I make Gewürztraminer and I don’t really dive into Pinot Blanc and Riesling. I appreciate the hell out of those wines. I try a lot of wines which builds my education as a winemaker. I think that Syrah from Cornas is one of my favorites. That is likely my favorite Syrah in the world. There are just so many that it is difficult to choose from. Washington simply has great wine. I know I am biased but there are exciting things going on here in our backyards. The first wine I ever had from Washington was Abeja. I tried that was when I was living in Indiana. I love the nostalgia of Abeja but those wines are also fantastic. There are so many people doing awesome things in our neighborhood like Savage Grace, Michael is making some great wines. The best part is there is very little bad wine in Washington anymore. That really raises the bar for Washington.

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Great picture here of Cooper Wine Company head winemaker Steffan Jorgensen.

Great picture here of Cooper Wine Company head winemaker Steffan Jorgensen.

Cooper Wine Company

September 9, 2016

As you make your way down Sunset Road off Highway 82 you will stumble upon a nondescript barn, set on acres of beautiful vineyards. A small sign marking the winery greets you. A relatively new winery, founded by Neil Cooper on Red Mountain, Cooper Wine Company, has impressed with their new release red and white wines. A small, family-run operation, Cooper focuses on Bordeaux-style reds that are sourced from their estate vineyard as well as other Red Mountain vineyards. In 2014 Neil Cooper bought an additional amount of acreage on Red Mountain to expand his program. Cooper made only 500 cases of wine in his first 2007 vintage, but he has recently expanded his production with the additional acquired vineyards. Cooper has hired Steffan Jorgensen (formerly of Bergevin Lane in Walla Walla, now owner/winemaker in the Elqui Valley in Chile) as his consulting winemaker. Jorgenson’s new release wines were absolutely fantastic. I had a chance to visit with him at the tasting room. He brings a wealth of experience in the Washington and Chile wine industries. Jorgenson is an upbeat and energetic guy that shows off his talents in the glass.

I was very impressed with the richness and mouthfeel of his 2014 Cooper ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91). This wine is not for those who despise oaky Chardonnays, as it is one of the more intense and voluptuous Washington Chardonnays I have sampled in the past year. I also had the chance to barrel taste their 2015 Cooper ‘Estate’ Chardonnay, which was showing nicely and displayed a similar lovely texture and viscosity. Another great release wine was the 2013 Cooper ‘Estate’ Cabernet (WWB, 91) which showed wonderful tension and richness from this warm vintage. Learn more about Cooper Wine Company at http://www.cooperwinecompany.com/ Here are the new release wines from Cooper Wine Company.

2014 Cooper 'Estate' Chardonnay-Needing to be warmed up a bit in the glass, the wine was aged for 9 months in new French oak. This wine starts with aromatics of poached pear, smoke, Pazzaz apple and creme brulee. This has lovely viscosity and mouthfeel, as this Chardonnay is not for the weary. While the oak treatment is evident, the winemaking is exceptional. Drink 2016-2022- 

2013 Cooper 'Barrel Maker' Red- This wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet with 25% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. The wine begins with fruity aromatics of prune, red cherry, red raspberry and sandalwood. This leads to flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, black tea and black olive. This is polished with nice richness. Drink 2016-2022- 

2013 Cooper 'Estate' Merlot- This fruit driven Merlot wine opens with aromatics of red cherry, guava, prune and spicebox and hints of red bell pepper. There are flavors of red cherry, prune, black plum and anise. This is delicious, fruit driven wine that has the structure to cellar well into the next decade. Drink 2016-2023- 

2013 Cooper 'L'Inizio' Red Wine- This wine is an intriguing blend of 25% Cabernet, 25% Merlot, 25% Carmenere, 15% Malbec, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. The wine opens with aromatics of green bell pepper, anise, pipe tobacco, cassis and spicebox. There are flavors of pipe tobacco, coffee grounds, red cherry and anise. Lively and light on its feet, this balanced wine will have at least another decade in the cellar. Drink 2016-2026- 

2013 Cooper 'Estate' Cabernet Franc- The wine opens with herbaceous notes of red bell pepper, sage, anise and smoky accents. This leads to flavors of red cherry, dill, sage and mild tannins. This feminine style Cab Franc will cellar well into the next decade. Drink 2016-2024- 

2013 Cooper 'Estate' Cabernet- This excellent Cabernet wine begins with aromatics of red bell pepper, anise, cassis and mocha. This leads to flavors of red cherry, coffee grounds, wild blackberry and moderate tannins. This shows nice poise and richness. The structure to this wine indicates that this has nice cellaring potential. Drink 2016-2027-

2013 Cooper 'Gatekeeper Bud's Break' Red Wine- A blend of 50% Zinfandel with 50% Syrah, the wine is named after the winery dog. There are aromatics of red cherry, smoke and blackberry jam. The wine has flavors of red cherry, blackberry pie and smoked pork shoulder. The balance is there in this one of a kind blend. Drink 2016-2024- 

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I had the chance to hang out with superstar winemaker at Rasa Vineyards, Billo Naravane.

I had the chance to hang out with superstar winemaker at Rasa Vineyards, Billo Naravane.

Rasa Vineyards

September 7, 2016

“This was years in the making” proclaimed superstar winemaker, Billo Naravane, as he talked about his deliberate plan to start a winery. Sitting down with Billo, he talked to me about his inspirations from a tasting group while he was living in Austin, Texas. During that time Billo was exposed to some of the finest wines in the world and he fully caught the wine bug. Finally, he and his brother, Pinto, decided to end their jobs in the computer industry and start Rasa Vineyards in 2007.  I was entirely captivated with Rasa Vineyards wine since my first introduction a few years back. Billo boasts a bachelor’s degree from MIT and a master’s degree from Stanford. His wine education is the one of the best out there as well, completing the wine program from UC Davis. This brilliant guy is also his master’s thesis away from completing the illustrious masters of wine (MW) degree. What sets his wines apart is the incredible mouthfeel and poise that he creates. He is only going to get better as a winemaker.

Similar to my last tasting at Rasa roughly six months ago, the new releases from this estate were absolutely gorgeous. Following up the stunning 2013 bottling, the 2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘primus inter pares’ Grenache (WWB, 94) shows incredible poise, viscosity and Billo’s signature plush mouthfeel. This is truly one of the best Grenache in the state that has the ‘wow’ factor. For those who crave rich Washington Syrah, his 2013 Rasa Vineyards ‘Doctrina Perpetua’ Syrah (WWB, 94) is sourced from old block Syrah from the esteemed Bacchus Vineyard and shows incredible depth and minerality. Probably the best Petit Verdot from Washington that I have ever reviewed is the 2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘Living in the Limelight’ Petit Verdot (WWB, 94) which possesses gorgeous depth and complexity with a steely minerality. I highly recommend that you make a visit to Rasa Vineyards to see these incredible wines. Learn more about Rasa at https://www.rasavineyards.com/ Here are the amazing new wines from Rasa Vineyards.

2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘Dream Deferred’ Chardonnay- The 2014 'Dream Deferred' by Rasa Vineyards is an exceptional new Chardonnay release. Sourced from the esteemed Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, this wine begins with aromas of mushroom, brioche, lemon curd and hints of cinnamon. There are rich flavors of nutmeg, Pink Lady apple, creme brulee and a touch of poached pear. The balance and mouthfeel to this wine is gorgeous, as this wine has some very excellent viscosity on the mid-palate, showcasing this hot vintage. Drink 2016-2022- 92

2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘Tilting At Windmills’ Red Wine- Made as a homage to the Priorat region in Spain, the 2014 'Titing At Windmills' Red Wine is another gorgeous release from superstar winemaker Billo Naravane. This wine is an intriguing blend of Grenache, Cabernet and Syrah and begins with aromatics of red cherry, blackberry, thyme and sagebrush with a smoky edge from the Rocks District fruit. The wine has rich flavors of black cherry, smoked pork shoulder, anise and red raspberry with thyme and sage accents. The forward aspect of this fruit-driven wine and rich texture shines through. Drink 2016-2027-93

2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘Living in the Limelight’ Petit Verdot- One of the best of its kind in Washington state, the 2014 'Living in the Limelight' Petit Verdot is a monster new release wine from Rasa Vineyards. The wine was sourced from the Bacchus Vineyard and opens with aromatics of black tea, sage, black olive and black cherry. There are deep flavors of black cherry, black olive, black cherry, thyme and sage. Hugely balanced, with a striking minerality, the wine needs at least another year for the fruit flavors to develop and tannins to dissipate. It is safe to say that I have never sampled a better 100% Washington Petit Verdot. Drink 2017-2030- 94

2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘QED Axiom of Choice’ Cabernet Franc- This excellent value is sourced from the Weinbau Vineyard, which tends to be one of the best sources of Cabernet Franc in the state. Head winemaker Billo Naravane aged this wine for 18 months in French oak, as this also underwent native yeast fermentation. Moderately tannic, the wine has flavors of black tea, sage, blackberry and black olive with black cherry. Dense and masculine, this wine has a gorgeous mouthfeel with a strong minerality. While this wine will cellar beautifully into the next decade, it is impossible to resist right now. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘Doctrina Perpetua’ Syrah- Continuing the excellent Rasa lineup is the 2013 'Doctrina Perpetua' Syrah, sourced from Block 5 at the Bacchus Vineyard. The wine was aged for 30 months in French oak prior to bottling and underwent native fermentation. This is a massive beast, weighing in at 15.1% alcohol and displaying a wide range of fruit flavors. This inky colored wine begins with aromatics of bacon fat, blackberry jam, black olive and hints of white truffle oil. The bouquet is absolutely gorgeous as this continually brings you back to the hedonistic aromas. There are dense flavors of black cherry, black olive, black tea and hints of smoked brisket. The Syrah utilizes superstar winemaker Billo Naravane's signature silky mouthfeel. This excellent release is not short on flavor, as the minerality tames this dense treat. Drink 2016-2026- 94

2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘primus inter pares’ Grenache- The 2014 'primus inter pares' Grenache by Rasa follows up their exceptional 2013 bottling. Sourced from the Monette's Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks region, the wine shows a mildly stony aspect and an engaging mineral profile. Head winemaker Billo Naravane aged this wine for 18 months in French oak prior to bottling, as this Grenache opens with an aromatic profile of smoked brisket, thyme, creosote, red cherry and hints of red raspberry. There are rich flavors of black tea, black cherry, pomegranate seed and hints of smoked pork shoulder. Only 57 cases produced of this absolutely awesome Grenache that is truly one of the best in Washington state. It is fair to say that Naravane has a massive grip on this challenging to work with varietal. Drink 2016-2026- 94

 

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Fullerton wines head winemaker, Alex Fullerton, crafts some excellent Pinot Noirs

Fullerton wines head winemaker, Alex Fullerton, crafts some excellent Pinot Noirs

Fullerton Wines

September 6, 2016

A relatively new Willamette Valley winery, Fullerton Wines was founded in 2012 by Eric and Susanne Fullerton. Head winemaker Alex Fullerton heads the 4500 case production winery, crafting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Alex has a nice background in wine, previously working at Penner-Ash, as well as Drylands in New Zealand. Alex wanted to make wine of his own, which started in his garage in 2011. The tasting room is located in Beaverton, only about 40 minutes from Portland.

I recently had the chance to sample the range of new wines by Fullerton and was very impressed. Alex Fullerton did a nice job in the highly challenging 2013 vintage. His 2013 Fullerton ‘Croft Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) showed really nice earthy characteristics with red fruit nuisances. His 2014 Fullerton ‘Three Otters’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 89) is an outstanding value buy at only $20.00. Also impressing is their 2014 Fullerton 'Momtazi Vineyard' Pinot Noir which is dense and layered, showing off this esteemed vineyard. Learn more about Fullerton Wines at http://www.fullertonwines.com Here are the great new releases from Fullerton Wines:

2015 Fullerton 'Three Otters' Rose- This pale colored Rose wine made from Pinot Noir starts with a bouquet of cranberry, teaberry, and hints of watermelon. The palate yields flavors reminiscent of guava, cran-cherry and hints of Mandarin orange. The minerality makes its presence in this lively Rose.  Drink 2016-2018- 88

2014 Fullerton 'Three Otters' Pinot Noir- This wine starts with aromas of cran-cherry, black raspberry, strawberry jam, forest floor and dried sage. There are medium weight flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, Mandarin orange rind, cola and hints of guava puree. Forward and fruity, this is very tasty with the mineral backbone ever present. The 'Three Otters' Pinot Noir is a great value out of Oregon. Drink 2016-2021- 89

2014 Fullerton 'Three Otters' Chardonnay-This rich hued Chardonnay starts with aromas of starfruit, mulberry, Pazzaz apple and brioche. There are flavors of Gala apple, nectarine pit, vanilla cream and poached pear. This has both nice balance and fruit flavors. Drink 2016-2021- 88

2014 Fullerton 'Cooper Mountain' Chardonnay- The Cooper Mountain Vineyard is set in Beaverton, not far from Portland. This intriguing Chardonnay opens with a bouquet of wet gravel, Bartlett pear, and nutmeg. There are medium weight flavors of Gravenstein apple, brioche, heavy whipping cream and hints of cardamom. Drink 2016-2022- 89

2013 Fullerton 'Five FACES' Pinot Noir- Initially aromatically reticent, this Pinot begins with aromas of cran-cherry, pomegranate seed, guava and cinnamon stick. There are flavors of cranberry, teaberry, mulberry and red cherry in this slightly astringent, medium weight quaff. Drink 2016-2022- 88

2014 Fullerton 'Five FACES' Pinot Noir- Showing a darker fruit profile than the 2013 'FACES' bottling, this Pinot Noir starts with aromatics reminiscent of black cherry, anise, cola and rhubarb. There are flavors of black cherry, cola, black raspberry, guava puree and hints of black tea. This shows nice range and has a silly mouthfeel. Drink 2016-2024- 90

2013 Fullerton 'Momtazi Vineyard' Pinot Noir- This Pinot Noir has a translucent core and opens with red fruit driven aromas of red currant, red cherry, guava and strawberry puree. There are flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, guava, cremini mushroom, strawberry and a touch of vanilla. This feminine and elegant Pinot shows its Burgundian side. While this doesn't have the weight that many people enjoy, the structure and elegance suggests this will be a long-ager. Drink 2016-2025- 90

2014 Fullerton 'Momtazi Vineyard' Pinot Noir- An exceedingly different flavor profile than the '13 Momtazi, this 2014 Pinot shows aromatics of black truffle, cassis, black cherry, black olive and crushed gravel. The compelling nose brings you back to the glass. Having a deep and rich palate, the wine yields flavors of black cherry, cassis, anise, black truffle and forest floor that nearly mimic the aromas. The balance and weight is there as this wine showcases the heat of this great vintage. Kudos to the Fullerton winemaking team on this great Oregon Pinot Noir.  Drink 2016-2026- 92

2013 Fullerton 'Croft Vineyard' Pinot Noir- This wine begins with aromatics of forest floor, crushed wet stone, red cherry with suggestions of black truffle. There are flavors of dill, red cherry, red raspberry and a hint of cola. This is silky wine from this challenging vintage. Medium bodied and balanced, the Burgundian structure of this Pinot suggests this will be a long ager. Drink 2016-2027- 91

2014 Fullerton 'Croft Vineyard' Pinot Noir- This expressive Pinot opens with aromas of smoked brisket, black cherry, wild blackberry and suggestions of thyme and forest floor. There are flavors of red cherry, boysenberry jam, black olive tapenade and creosote. This is slightly more fruity and less earthy than the '14 Montazi, but every bit as good. Lithe and light on its feet, this is simply delicious straight out of the bottle. Drink 2016-2026- 92

 

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Cool looking label for Wit Cellars, located in Prosser, Washington.

Cool looking label for Wit Cellars, located in Prosser, Washington.

Wit Cellars

August 31, 2016

Bidding a fond farewell to Washington Wine Month, we bring you a feature on a new Washington winery. Founded earlier this year in Prosser, Washington, Wit Cellars (standing for ‘We’re In Together’) has impressed with their new releases. They have relied on longtime winemaking talents for their wines. Winemaker Flint Nelson and Cat Warwick have crafted some excellent new releases, that range from Rose to Cabernet. Flint Nelson has previously served as winemaker at Hogue Cellars and Columbia Winery.  From 2000-2004 Flint made wines at Apex Cellars, under Brian Carter. From 2004-2015 Flint was the head winemaker at Kestrel Vintners. Cat Warwick also has a wealth of winemaking experience and served under Flint at Kestrel for three years before coming to Wit Cellars.

Their tasting room is located near Alexandria Nicole in Prosser and I recently had the chance to stop by and sample their new release wines. There is a lot to like with their 2013 Wit Cellars Red Wine (WWB, 90) which shows nice bright fruit flavors and nice balance. I also really enjoyed their 2013 Wit Cellars l’armonia (WWB, 90) which was a blend sourced from the esteemed Northridge Vineyard and showed nice richness and intensity of this warm vintage. Learn more about Wit Cellars at http://witcellars.com/# Here are the new release wines from Wit Cellars.

2015 Wit Cellars Rose- This lovely summer wine starts with aromatics of red cherry, rose petals and red raspberry. There are light flavors of bubblegum, red cherry and guava to this fruity wine. Drink 2016-2020- 88

2015 Wit Cellars Pinot Gris- This bright Pinot Gris wine starts with aromatics of pear, gooseberry and cantaloupe. This leads to flavors of red delicious apple, and cantaloupe. This shows nice poise. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2014 Wit Cellars Chardonnay- The wine opens with aromatics of Bartlett pear, toasted hazelnuts and Pink Lady Apple. This leads to flavors of vanilla cream, brioche, Gala apple and a bright minerality. Drink 2016-2023- 89

2014 Wit Cellars Riesling- This wine begins with aromatics of bright pear, Gala apple and hints of petroleum. There are flavors of Pazzaz apple, key lime pie and white peach. Drink 2016-2020- 87

2013 Mazzacano Cellars ‘Sotto Vocce’ Red Wine- This wine opens with aromatics of red cherry, prune, smoke and white pepper with rose petals. There are flavors of Ross petals, red cherry, pomegranate and red raspberry. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2013 Wit Cellars Red Wine- This wine is a blend of 61% Malbec, 21% Petit Verdot, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. This delicious red blend begins with aromatics of mocha, blackberry jam and hints of creosote. There are flavors of blackberry jam, black olive, black cherry and red bell pepper. Drink 2016-2023- 90

2013 Wit Cellars Cabernet- This begins with aromatics of red bell pepper, anise, green olive and blackberry. The wine has rich flavors of blackberry cobbler, green bell pepper, anise and black olive. The balance is there with the ripe fruit flavors. Drink 2016-2023- 90

2013 Mazzacano 'L'armonia' Red Wine- Sourced from the Northridge Vineyard, this wine opens with aromatics of wild blackberry, anise, black cherry and black olive. There are rich flavors of black olive, anise, creme de cassis and milk chocolate. This shows lovely rich fruit and nice range of flavor and aromatic profiles. Drink 2016-2023- 90

 

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Great picture here of Force Majeure superstar winemaker Todd Alexander (L) with proprietor Paul McBride (R) at their Woodinville Tasting room.

Great picture here of Force Majeure superstar winemaker Todd Alexander (L) with proprietor Paul McBride (R) at their Woodinville Tasting room.

Force Majeure Vineyards

August 30, 2016

As the sun is slowly setting on Washington Wine Month, we bring you another exciting feature. Set atop of Red Mountain, the Force Majeure Vineyard is one of the most scenic properties in Washington State as it has absolutely gorgeous, sweeping views of the valley. The vineyard is farmed by Dick Boushey’s vineyard management team. Superstar winemaker, Todd Alexander, the former winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyards in Napa, heads this project and regularly travels to the vineyard. In Napa Todd learned from some of the brightest names in wine, including eminent vineyard manager David Abreu and famous winemaking consultant Michel Rolland. The future releases by Todd are clear of one thing – his talent is in the glass, as these are some incredible new release wines.

I recently had the chance to sit down with Todd and run through their impressive future releases. Todd talked about his experiences in Napa and how he continues to learn about farming and winemaking in Washington. Having had many previous release wines from this estate, there is a clear difference between the former wines and the level of depth and complexity in Todd’s wines. I was completely overwhelmed by two of their future Bordeaux varietal wines. Their 2014 Force Majeure ‘Epinette’ Red Wine (WWB, 95), which was just bottled, is a captivating, intense Merlot dominant wine. The wine was brooding and Napaesque, needing more than two hours in the decanter to show. The mouthfeel and viscosity of the wine was tremendous. Similarly, their 2014 Force Majeure Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) needed a ton of time in the decanter but once the dust settled the wine came alive with bright and vibrant flavors and incredible intensity. These wines are sure to impress any lover of great Washington Cabernet and Merlot. They also show the wonder potential of this vineyard. While their tasting room in Woodinville is by appointment, they plan on someday expanding to the Walla Walla area which will be very exciting. Here are the great future releases by Force Majeure Vineyards.

2015 Holocene 'Memorialis' Pinot Noir- (Release November 2016). This is a 200 case production wine that was sourced from the Monk's Gate vineyard which is west facing and marine sedimentary soils.  The wine begins with aromas of red raspberry, forest floor, anise and spicebox with red cherry. The wine has flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, cremini mushroom and bright acidity. This has a saline aspect with nice minerality. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2014 Force Majeure 'Parvata' Red Wine- (Release Jan 2017). This is from a Sandscit name for Mountain. The wine has a massive dark core. This is all estate fruit and a blend of 40% Mourvedre, 35% Syrah and 25% Grenache. The wine has a bouquet of smoked brisket, provencale herbs, sagebrush, blackberry pie and hints of mocha. There are flavors of black cherry, mocha, black olive, creosote and hints of black pepper with an extremely long finish. The fruit weight and minerality of this wine is exceptional. This massive wine needs another year of bottle age to settle and for more fruit to integrate. Drink 2017-2028- 94

2014 Force Majeure Syrah- (Release Jan 2017). This has one percent Viognier blended into the Syrah. The Viognier was fermented in concrete and the Syrah was mostly fermented in concrete prior to blending. The wine begins with aromatics reminiscent of white pepper, anise, blackberry jam, sagebrush and crushed wildflowers. There are deep flavors of black cherry, anise, creme cassis, black olive, and spicebox. The texture is gorgeous and the brisk minerality is impressive considering the heat of the vintage. Drink 2017- 2026- 94

2014 Force Majeure 'Epinette' Red Wine- (Release August 2017). This is their take on a right bank Bordeaux. The wine is a blend of 58% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet and 5% Petit Verdot that was aged 22 months in 80% new French oak. The wine begins with aromatics of creme de cassis, anise, sagebrush, sandalwood and mocha. There are flavors of anise, creme de cassis, green olive, mocha that sit alongside moderate tannins. This has a gorgeous texture and marvelous fruit weight. After two plus hours of decanting this becomes even more massive, displaying a deeper, muscular concentration with incredible viscosity. The range of flavors and aromatics are there, with the dense fruit weight that gives this a beautiful comparison to a top right bank Bordeaux. Kudos to head winemaker Todd Alexander on this excellent Merlot dominant wine. Drink 2017-2030- 95

2014 Force Majeure Cabernet Sauvignon- (Release Aug 2017). It has been highly impressive to see what this estate has performed following the hire of head winemaker Todd Alexander from Napa's Bryant Family Vineyards. Having reviewed more than a thousand Washington wines in the past 15 years, the difference for this estate, Todd's hand, is in the glass. This hedonistic Cabernet wine is 93% Cabernet with 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. Todd Alexander saw the blending as adding to the aromatics of this wine. This Cabernet wine opens with aromas of creme de cassis, creosote, mocha, eucalyptus and black cherry. This leads to hedonistic flavors of mocha, black cherry, anise, creme de cassis, eucalyptus and coffee grounds with a hint of white pepper that sit alongside some moderate tannins. This Cabernet has tremendous weight and viscosity as this massive wine considerably improves following a two hour decant. The tension of this wine is impressive considering the vintage. This decadent wine really needs at least another year of bottle age for these deep tannins to settle and for further dark fruits to fully integrate. These two amazing Bordeaux varietal release by Alexander have now made their full-throttle red carpet entrance to the high end Washington wine scene. Drink 2017-2030- 95

 

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Superstar winemaker Juan Muñoz-Oca stars at Columbia Crest winery.

Superstar winemaker Juan Muñoz-Oca stars at Columbia Crest winery.

Interview with Juan Muñoz-Oca, Head Winemaker at Columbia Crest

August 29, 2016

As part of our special Washington Wine Month feature for August, we bring you an interview from another huge player in the Washington Wine Industry. Juan Muñoz-Oca has a longstanding history in the Washington Wine Industry. Originally from Mendoza, Argentina, Juan grew up around a winery and learned about wine from a young age. Since moving to Columbia Crest in 2003, Juan has produced some incredible wines for Columbia Crest. Juan talked about the incredible range of wines that Columbia Crest produces and how he sees some of the recent vintages. He was a delight to talk wine with. Here is my very special interview with Columbia Crest head winemaker, Juan Muñoz-Oca

WWB: How did you first decide to become a winemaker?

JMO: I always wanted to be in the wine industry, like a wine-grower or winemaker. As a kid, we spent a lot of time around grapes and wineries as my grandfather was a cellar master, a vineyard grower and made his own wine. The idea of transforming grapes into a wonderful elixir that is a representation of the place is really exciting to me.

WWB: You have been working with Columbia Crest since 2003 and have seen many special vintages in Washington. Do you have any particular favorite vintages for red and white wines? How do you rate the recent hot vintages, 2014 and 2015 for red and white wines?

JMO: Right now I’m loving reds made in the mid 2000’s, for example the 2005 and 2006 vintages are showing especially great with refined tannins and freshness. I loved the whites wines we made in 2011.

WWB: I have been enjoying Columbia Crest Grand Estates for more than 15 years. Can you talk about the attention to detail in these great value wines that are some of the best red and white wine values in the United States?

JMO: I would first and foremost attribute most of the quality and value of our wines to the terroir in Washington State. The conditions in which we grow our grapes allow us to deliver refined wines that become a terrific value proposition. When it comes to the winemaking that we do at Columbia Crest specifically, I think part of the success is the fact that we make wines the same way we were making them in the early 80’s, same techniques, same attention to detail, although the volumes have change. We think and act as a small winery despite our size.

WWB: You are originally from Mendoza and spent time as cellarmaster for Bodegas Toso in Argentina. You obviously were exposed to great Malbec wines. Can you talk about the differences in aromatic and flavor profiles between Mendoza Malbec and Columbia Valley Malbec? Do you see Washington having a great potential for Malbec moving forward with these warm vintages?

JMO: I grew up in Mendoza, and actually learned how to make wine by making Malbec. I think there are two main differences between Malbec from Mendoza and Malbec from Washington. 1) elevation: growing Malbec nested against the Andes at ~3,000 or 4,000 feet allow Argentine winemakers to expose their canopies to a different intensity of UV radiation, developing tannins differently during the ripening season, 2) clonal selection: Argentines have been selecting cuttings from the best plants for generations, that selection is showing refinement and lots of concentration, which translate into the wines.

That said, Columbia Valley Malbec (in my opinion) gives Argentine Malbec a run for its money, Malbec grows beautifully in Washington, developing tremendous depth of flavors due to the swings in temperature between day and night, and the fact that we can plant Malbec on its own roots. We also deliver great value as Argentine Malbec does. I’m bullish about Malbec in Washington, I think it is one variety that can create a truly unique expression of itself when grown in the Columbia Valley.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Columbia Crest wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world?

JMO: My wife is also a winemaker, so we try not to drink too much of our own wines to avoid a “house palate”. We try as many wines from the Pacific Northwest as we can to keep up with what’s new and exciting, yet when not drinking wines from the northwest, we drink Argentine wines and also a fair amount of Spanish wines.

 

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Gorgeous views at Maryhill Winery

Gorgeous views at Maryhill Winery

Maryhill Winery

August 23, 2016

As part of Washington Wine Month we bring you an exciting new feature on another big player in Washington wine. If you are a fan of sweeping views and a huge range of great red and white wines, a visit to Maryhill Winery is a must. Established in 1999 by Craig and Vicki Leuthold, the winery has gained plenty of attention in the Northwest wine industry since that time. The Leutholds crafted a 3,000-square-foot tasting room, a vine-covered arbor, bocce courts, picnic grounds and an adjacent 4,000 seat amphitheater that hosts an impressive summer concert series, with upcoming performances by famed groups Tears for Fears and Chris Issak. The views of the valley and the river from this winery are just incredible.
In the past ten plus years, this winery has expanded its production and range of wines considerably. The winery has grown from only a 4,300 case production in 1999 to more than 90,000 cases today, making it the 9th largest winery in the state.
There have been plenty of awards since its inception. Some awards include the "2014 Winery of the Year" by San Francisco International Wine Competition, "Top 10 Winery of the World" by The World Association of Wine Writers and Journalists, "2013 Winemaker of the Year" by Indy International Wine Competition, “2009 Washington Winery of the Year” by Wine Press Northwest and "Best Destination Winery" by Seattle Magazine. Maryhill produces more than 50 varietals and blends, as there is just a huge range of wines offered by this winery – and many at exceptional prices. I recently had the chance to taste through some of their more popular offerings. Their 2015 Maryhill Chardonnay (WWB, 90) was an awesome and rich effort that showed nice balance considering the heat of the vintage. This is a wine to buy by the case, at only $16.00 per bottle. Another great value was their 2015 'Proprietor’s Reserve' Albariño (WWB, 90) which was sourced from the famed Otis Vineyard and showed a really classy range of aromatic and fruit flavors. Finally check out their 2013 Maryhill ‘Winemaker’s Red’ Red Wine (WWB, 89) which is just a tremendous value red wine that shows a ton of ripe fruit flavors. Learn more about Maryhill Winery at http://www.maryhillwinery.com/ Here are the great new release wines by Maryhill.

2015 Maryhill Chardonnay- This green hued white begins with aromas of roasted pineapple, pear, Pink Lady apple and hints of nutmeg. There are flavors of brioche, vanilla cream, Gala apple and suggestions of starfruit. Bright and balanced, with a creamy finish, this is an excellent value. Drink 2016-2022- 90

2015 Marhill 'Proprietor’s Reserve' Albariño- Sourced from the famed Otis Vineyard, this wine opens with aromatics of starfruit, Bartlett pear and white peach pit. This yields flavors of honeydew melon, Pazzaz apple, candied pink grapefruit and suggestions of dried mango. The oily texture, ripe fruit and balance is excellent. Drink 2016-2021- 90

2013 Maryhill 'Winemaker's Red' Red Wine- This intriguing blend was sourced from more than 25 Columbia Valley vineyards. The wine starts with aromatics of black cherry, black olive, coffee grounds and blackberry jam. There are flavors reminiscent of black cherry, black raspberry, cassis and milk chocolate. Forward and rich, this is an excellent effort for the price. Drink 2016-2022- 89

2015 Maryhill Viognier- This expressive white wine starts with a bouquet of white peach, honeysuckle, bananas foster and roasted macadamia nuts. This leads to flavors of creme brulee, banana custard, pineapple and vanilla cream. A bit on the sweet side but the Viognier maintains nice minerality. Drink 2016-2020- 88

2012 Maryhill Zinfandel-This wine begins with a fruity nose of black plum, prune, red cherry and dill. There are ripe flavors of red cherry, red raspberry jam, prune, and hints of coffee grounds. This is a forward and delicious Zin that is meant for short-term consumption. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2011 Marhill Mourvèdre- Sourced from the Sugarloaf Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills, the wine starts with aromas of creosote, black cherry, blackberry preserves and coffee grounds. There are medium weight flavors of anise, tar, black cherry and cassis. This is polished and medium weight. Drink 2016-2021-88

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Dave Phinney (R) has created an incredible lineup of California red and white wines at Orin Swift

Dave Phinney (R) has created an incredible lineup of California red and white wines at Orin Swift

Orin Swift

August 22, 2016

A winery known for full-throttle red wines, Orin Swift crafts some exceptional wines that are not for the weary. Orin Swift Cellars was started in 1995 when on a lark, David Swift Phinney took a friend up on an offer and went to Florence, Italy to spend a semester “studying”. During that time, he was introduced to wine, and he later landed a job at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997 as a temporary harvest worker. In 1998 he founded Orin Swift Cellars; Orin is his father’s middle name and Swift is his mother’s maiden name. With two tons of zinfandel and not much else, he spent the next decade making wine for others as well as himself and grew the company into a multinational brand that now includes 300 acres of vineyards in the Southwest of France. Orin Swift now makes wine in Spain, Italy, Corsica, Argentina and other locations around the globe.

I found the new release wines from Orin Swift to be very compelling. Their red wines come from an outstanding vintage that saw a great deal of heat. You can taste the richness of the vintage in the bottle. The 2014 Orin Swift Machete (WWB, 93) is a rich and viscous bottling that shows massive fruit weight and compelling complexity. It is a great value buy and typically can be found at many area wine shops such as Esquin, Total Wines and BevMo. Orin Swift also now has a Napa tasting room. Learn more about Orin Swift’s strong lineup at http://www.orinswift.com. Here are some of the greatnew release wines by Orin Swift.

2014 Orin Swift 'Machete' Red Wine- A compelling blend of Petite Sirah, Syrah and Grenache, this inky hued wine was aged 10 months in French oak prior to bottling. Needing more than an hour to express itself and aromatically reticent at first, some air yields deep aromas reminiscent of rose petals, tar, pipe tobacco, coffee grounds and blueberry compote. There are rich flavors of black plum, creosote, black olive, and spicebox. This wine is pretty Tannic and intense right now. This dense treat needs another year to fully integrate. It represents another stellar Machete bottling by Orin Swift. Drink 2017-2026- 93

2014 Orin Swift 'Palermo' Cabernet- The wine is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec. This dense wine opens with black cherry, mocha, black cherry and roasted figs with hints of green bell pepper. There are flavors of blackberry preserves, cherry cough syrup, blueberry compote and tar. This is layered and delicious.This wine is absolutely sumptuous on the second day.  Drink 2016-2025- 93

2014 Orin Swift 'Abstract' Red Wine- This wine begins with aromas of coffee grounds, boysenberry compote, milk chocolate and red bell pepper. There are dense flavors of mocha, blackberry pie, creosote and cassis. Plush and layered, this is another fantastic new release from this estate. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2013 Orin Swift ‘Abstract’ Red Wine- This is a rather alcoholic effort, given it weighs in at well over 15% alcohol, but in the glass it is surprisingly balanced. The wine is sourced from a host of regions including Napa, Mendocino, Sonoma, Amador and El Dorado counties. This has a dense hue and is aromatically intense. This wine is a full bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah and Petite Sirah. It has aromas of black cherry, anise, blackberry compote and tar. This leads to deep flavors of creme de cassis, blackberry, coffee and black raspberry. Absolutely delicious forward effort. Drink 2016-2023- 93

 

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Great picture here of Merry Edwards, one of the great North American winemakers.

Great picture here of Merry Edwards, one of the great North American winemakers.

Merry Edwards

August 19, 2016

Over the past 10 plus years, Merry Edwards has made some serious headlines in the wine world. Merry Edwards has become one of the most famous winemakers in the world by producing world class Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. Year after year, Merry Edwards produces the some of best Sauvignon Blanc in North America that rivals the best out of France. Her Pinots impress too and I feel like she is becoming a stronger Pinot winemaker year after year. Merry Edwards began her career at Mount Eden Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1974. She went on to become the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in 1977 and remained there until 1984. For the next decade, Merry consulted for numerous wineries, large and small, in Oregon and many diverse appellations of California. In 1997, family and friends joined Merry to found Merry Edwards Winery, with a focus on producing Pinot Noirs from Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast.

I was first introduced to Merry Edwards in 2007 and found her expression of Sauvignon Blanc to be vibrant, novel and completely irresistible. Her new release, the 2014 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 93) shows the richness and intensity that Merry Edwards is known for. Also look for their 2013 Merry Edwards ‘Flax Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94), which is an absolutely stunning bottling that showcases earthy terroir and fruit flavors. Some of these wines can be found at great Northwest wine shops like Total Wines and Esquin. Learn more about Merry Edwards winery at http://www.merryedwards.com/Here are some of the fantastic wines that I have recently tried at Merry Edwards Winery.

2013 Merry Edwards ‘Olivet Lane’ Chardonnay- This beautifully balanced Chardonnay starts with aromas of nutmeg, golden delicious apple, and poached pear. There are flavors of Gala apple, pear and suggestions of nutmeg. Nicely balanced with nice viscosity. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2013 Merry Edwards ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- The wine starts with aromas of red cherry, anise, coriander and hints of cranberry. There are flavors of crab-cherry, orange rind, red raspberry and pomegranate seed. Lovely minerality and balance to this fruity wine. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2013 Merry Edwards ‘Meredith Estate’ Pinot Noir- The wine begins with aromatics of black cherry, black olive, orange rind and rose petals. There are flavors of mushroom, forest floor, red currant and red cherry with suggestions s of blood orange. Drink 2016-2027- 93

2013 Merry Edwards ‘Flax Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This awesome Pinot Noir wine begins with aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, smoke and mushroom. There are flavors of cran-pomegranate, blood orange rind, Shitake mushroom, black cherry and wild blackberry. Lovely weight and complexity. This is balanced and intense with moderate tannins. A Pinot to cellar. Drink 2017-2028- 94

2014 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc- This exotic style Sav Blanc begins with aromatics reminiscent of peach pit, roasted pear and Gala apple. There are flavors of Pink Lady apple, vanilla cream and gooseberry. This is a simply gorgeous wine with lovely weight and viscosity. The texture makes this a one of a kind Sav Blanc. Drink 2016-2024- 93

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Fidelitas head winemaker, Charlie Hoppes, crafts some fantastic Red Mountain red and white wines.

Fidelitas head winemaker, Charlie Hoppes, crafts some fantastic Red Mountain red and white wines.

Fidelitas

August 18, 2016

As part of Washington Wine Month we bring you another feature on an eminent Washington winery. One of the big wineries on Red Mountain, Fidelitas has gained national acclaim for their terroir driven red and white wines. Fidelitas on Red Mountain is a beautiful and modern facility that was created by superstar winemaker, Charlie Hoppes, former head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle. Prior to working at Chateau Ste. Michelle, he attended the world renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California, Davis and in 1988 he graduated with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a special emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. After a brief stint in Walla Walla in 1990 at Waterbrook Winery, he began working with superstar winemaker Mike Januik as a member of the winemaking team at Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. In 1993, he became the Head Red Winemaker and managed Ste. Michelle’s newest facility at the time, Canoe Ridge near Paterson, Washington. Hoppes had the pleasure of making the first vintages of Col Solare, from 1995-1998. After some time, Hoppes wanted to start his own project.

Hoppes finally decided to purchase some land on Red Mountain, founding Fidelitas in 2000 -- and has produced fantastic reds and whites since that time. Fidelitas is known for their red and white Bordeaux blends, as well as their rich Cabernets. Their value wine series, M100, is also very good for the price and sells to Costco and most Seattle area grocery stores.
I recently had the chance to visit their tasting room in Woodinville and was highly impressed with their range of new release wines. A wine that continues to impress each year is their 2014 Fidelitas ‘Optu White Wine’ (WWB, 93) which shows tremendous depth and complexity. This is one who loves a full bodied white wine. Equally impressive was the 2013 Fidelitas ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet (WWB, 93) which was a silky and layered effort perfect for every Cabernet lover. For those who have a slightly softer palate and love a rich Merlot, their 2013 Fidelitas ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Merlot (WWB, 93) showed a wonderful dark fruit profile and lovely smooth texture. Learn more about the great Fidelitas lineup at http://www.fidelitaswines.com/ Here are the great new wine releases from Fidelitas.

2014 Fidelitas ‘Optu White Wine’- This wine begins with aromas of poached pear, Gravenstein Apple and cantaloupe. There are rich flavors of Pazzaz apple, poached pear, toasted almonds and lovely weight and intensity. This is a gorgeous bottling here by Fidelitas that will cellar beautifully for at least another five plus years. Drink 2016-2023- 93

2012 Fidelitas ‘Boushey’ Red Wine- This is an excellent blend of 60% Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.  This wine starts with aromatics of black plum, black cherry, black olive and graphite. There are flavors of black cherry, cassis, anise and mocha. There is a lovely weight and mouthfeel to this delicious bottling. Drink 2016-2025- 92

2013 Fidelitas ‘Red Mountain’ Malbec- This is a blend of 3 vineyards on Red Mountain. This wine starts with aromas of black plum, coffee grounds, roasted dates and milk chocolate. There are flavors of blackberry preserves, mocha and roasted figs. This is a simply gorgeous wine with lovely weight and structure that is up there with the best Malbec in the state. Drink 2016-2025- 93

2012 Fidelitas ‘Optu’ Red Wine- This dense and layered wine begins with aromas of red cherry, milk chocolate, coffee grounds and black olive. There are deep flavors of red bell pepper, black olive, blackberry pie and black cherry. Deep and brooding, this will cellar gracefully for another decade. Drink 2016-2027- 93

2012 Fidelitas ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Cabernet- This wine starts with aromas of green olive, red bell pepper, blackberry and sagebrush in this earthy aromatic wine. There are flavors of black cherry, red bell pepper, mocha and blackberry cobbler. This is a highly impressive new release wine. Drink 2016-2027- 93

2013 Fidelitas ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Merlot- This silky wine starts with aromas of red cherry, red bell pepper and blackberry pie. There are flavors of sagebrush, mocha, black cherry and black olive. This Merlot is a polished and lithe wine that has wonderful intensity and terroir. It is delicious straight out of the bottle. Drink 2016-2027- 93

2013 Fidelitas ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet- This wine starts with aromas of blackberry preserves, black olive, mocha and sagebrush. There is just a lovely range of aromatics at play. There are flavors of blackberry pie, black olive, black cherry and mocha. This is just another gorgeous new release wine from this estate.  Drink 2016-2028- 93

2013 Fidelitas ‘Champoux Vineyard Magna’ Red Wine- This Cab Franc heavy blend opens with aromas of sagebrush, red bell pepper, black cherry and black olive. There are flavors of black cherry, sagebrush, red cherry and dried mint. This wine is a simply gorgeous new release here that's showcasing its feminine side. Drink 2016-2026- 93

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Great looking labels for Lauren Ashton Cellars wines

Great looking labels for Lauren Ashton Cellars wines

Lauren Ashton Cellars

August 16, 2016

A winery founded by dentist, Dr. Kit Singh, Lauren Ashton Cellars is a must visit in Woodinville. Founded in 2009, this is a relatively new winery that is only getting better. Kit has previously worked at DeLille and has furthered his education from the illustrious University of California at Davis enology program. Lauren Ashton Cellars was named after Kit’s two children, Ashley Lauren and Ashton Troy. Kit is a science scholar that takes winemaking very seriously. You can tell Kit’s careful attention detail in the glass. I’ve been a fan of this estate for many years and I wanted to showcase their new releases.

It is worth noting that this is Kit’s second career. He has only been in winemaking until somewhat recently. Kit obviously has an extremely high ceiling, judging by his last two years of new release wines. His latest release wines were absolutely gorgeous. Look for the new 2015 Lauren Ashton Rose (WWB, 91) which has wonderful lithe minerality and nice density. Lauren Ashton has absolutely nailed this effort as this is one of the best Washington Rose wines that I have sampled in the past year. Another great new release wine is the 2012 Lauren Ashton ‘Cuvee Mirabelle’ (WWB, 92) which shows nice density and layered black fruit flavors. Finally, one of the better Washington Cabernet releases that I have sampled in the past few months is a rather late release, the 2012 Lauren Ashton Cabernet (WWB, 93). This wine has the classic Cabernet aromas and a dense mouthfeel that is really a gorgeous bottling. Learn more about Lauren Ashton wines at http://laurenashtoncellars.com/ Here are the great new release wines by Lauren Ashton Cellars.

2015 Lauren Ashton Rose- This is an intriguing blend of 50/50 Grenache and Mourvèdre. There are aromatics of Mandarin orange rind, grapefruit blossom, guava puree and Bing cherry. This wine delivers flavors of red raspberry, pomegranate, Bing cherry and watermelon. A delight to savor, hats off to Kit Singh in crafting this fantastic summer sipper. Drink 2016-2020- 91

2014 Lauren Ashton Rousanne- This wine starts with aromatics reminiscent of cut grass, beeswax, cantaloupe and lemon blossoms. The wine yields bright flavors of cantaloupe, Pazzaz apple, kumquat and hints of orange marmalade. There is lovely weight and texture to this impressive Rousanne. Head winemaker has an impressive handle on this Rhone varietal. Drink 2016-2022- 92

2014 Lauren Ashton Semillon- This wine has aromas of brioche, Pazzaz apple, starfruit and suggestions of nutmeg. There are flavors of green papaya, Granny Smith apple, lemon zest and cantaloupe. There is a nice plush mouthfeel with wonderful smoothness. Drink 2016-2020- 90

2012 Lauren Ashton 'Cuvée Mirabelle' Red Wine- This wine is a blend of 34% Grenache, 33% Syrah and 33% Mourvèdre that has seen a good deal of bottle age upon release. The blend begins with aromatics of smoked meats, lavender, thyme, black cherry and black olive. On the palate there are rich flavors of mocha, pencil shavings, smoked duck, black olive and blackberry cobbler. Open and polished right now, give this at least 30 minutes in the decanter for the flavors to fully amalgamate. This is another gorgeous effort by head winemaker Kit Singh. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2012 Lauren Ashton Cabernet- This dense colored wine begins with aromatics reminiscent of milk chocolate, sagebrush, coffee grounds and black olive with hints of cassis. There are flavors of red cherry, boysenberry preserves, mocha and black olive. Having a plush mouthfeel, this glides through the tongue. A delight to drink now, but this wine has great cellaring potential as well. Drink 2016-2028- 93

 

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Great shot here of Maison Bleue talented winemaker, Dr. Jon Meuret, a former dentist that founded Maison Bleue in 2007.

Great shot here of Maison Bleue talented winemaker, Dr. Jon Meuret, a former dentist that founded Maison Bleue in 2007.

Maison Bleue

August 15, 2016

As part of Washington Wine Month we continue our series of exciting Washington winery profiles. If you are ever in Walla Walla you must stop by Maison Bleue, a gorgeous spot to taste wine. Whether outside on their patio or inside the comforts of this blue-themed, modern tasting room you will find some stellar new release wines. Maison Bleue focuses on Rhone style red and white wines. Head winemaker Jon Meuret crafts some exceptional wines and has recently been hired to be the new consulting winemaking project for Willamette Valley Vineyards, called Pambrun which is focused on producing Cabernet Sauvignon and will debut with a 2015 vintage.  He currently sources from some great vineyard sites, including the Blue Mountains Vineyard, the Les Colines Vineyard, the Pepper Bridge Vineyard, the Seven Hills Vineyard and Monette’s Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks region.

The new releases were just as impressive as last year’s excellent bottlings. I was particularly drawn to his new release Grenache, the 2013 Maison Bleue ‘Bourgeois’ Grenache (WWB, 93) which showed very pretty red fruit flavors and a long finish. There were only 187 cases made of that wine. Another great showing was their 2013 Maison Bleue ‘Voyageur’ Syrah (WWB, 93), another great rich Syrah that follows up their exceptional 2012 release. This wine showed nice smoky elements alongside dark fruit flavors. Learn more about Maison Bleue at www.mbwinery.com. Here are the fantastic new release wines by John Meuret and Maison Bleue.

2013 Maison Bleue 'Bourgeois' Grenache- This wine is a blend of Bouchey and Monette's vineyard Grenache. The wine opens with aromatics of rose petals, smoke, red raspberry, and cranberry pie. There are flavors of red cherry, red currant, bubblegum, guava puree and hints of cran-pomegranate. There is a faint rocky element to this gorgeous wine. Only 187 cases produced. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2013 Maison Bleue 'Coureur de Bois' Red Wine- This intriguing wine starts with aromatics of leather, smoked meats and blackberry pie. There are flavors of wild blackberry preserves, coffee grounds and black raspberry. This has lovely terroir and balance. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2013 Maison Bleue 'Voyageur' Syrah- This inky colored Syrah was sourced from the Yellow Jacket Vineyard and begins with aromas of smoke, red cherry, red raspberry and blackberry with brisket accents. There are deep flavors of creosote, blackberry, black cherry and black olive with hints of white pepper. This is impossible to resist right now. Drink 2016-2027-93

 

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The new release of Moët e' Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’, the 2006, is just an incredible wine that shows incredible range and a silky texture.

The new release of Moët e' Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’, the 2006, is just an incredible wine that shows incredible range and a silky texture.

Dom Pérignon

August 11, 2016

We have a very fun journey into France today on the blog. Few Champagne lovers of the world know that Dom Pérignon was a 18th century French Benedictine monk who is credited with inventing Champagne. Interestingly, the Champagne region was mostly known for still wine until the mid-19th century when most houses started making Sparkling wine. Launched in 1936 by leading champagne house Moët & Chandon, Dom Pérignon was the first cuvée de prestige created for consumers. While most of the world including France in the midst of the Great Depression, this was a strange time to start a prestigious brand of a Champagne. But as both Napoleon and Winston Churchill have previously noted, Champagne is not only for good times but it is used to console as well.

The first Dom Pérignon was the excellent 1921 vintage and it was met with a resounding success. Soon other estates began producing their cuvée de prestige, including Roederer, starting their ‘Cristal’ line in 1945 which was followed by Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne in 1952 and Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle in 1959. Dom Pérignon remains for many the epitome of great champagne. Dom Pérignon is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes that are are grown in vineyards that received grand cru status. Each of these special occasion Champagnes showcase their vintage. The 2004 Dom Perignon had an incredible mixture of intensity and richness, while the 2005 Dom Perignon took on a slightly more delicate flavor profile. Learn more about Dom Perignon Champagne at http://www.domperignon.com/ Here are the last three releases of Moët e' Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon.'

2004 Moët e' Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ - This exquisite bottling is a blend of 52% Pinot Noir and 48% Chardonnay. The wine has a silky mousse and opens with aromas of Bartlett pear, brioche and hazelnut. It is silky and effervescent throughout, as sampling this wine is an ethereal experience. The texture and mouthfeel, combined with the structure and fruit of this wine is up there with the best of its kind. Deep flavors of lemon zest, kumquat, starfruit and red delicious apple come to mind. A magnificent bottling that will last for several more decades. Drink 2015-2030- 96

2005 Moët e' Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’- This incredible vintage Champagne opens with aromas of brioche toast, fresh starfruit, mandarin orange blossom and shitake mushroom. This wine has flavors of gala apple, cut grass, dried apricot and Meyer lemon zest. The bubbles are delicate and glide along the tongue throughout this ethereal textural experience. There is a nice rich and layered approach to the wine, which finishes with vanilla cream. Drink 2016-2030- 95

2006 Moët e' Chandon ‘Dom Pérignon’ - These guys continue to produce some of the best champagne in the world. This new bottling is no exception.  This wine begins with aromas of brioche, porcini mushroom, gala apple and banana. This leads to flavors of red delicious apple, toasted macadamia nut, Meyer lemon rind, and Japanese pear. This is absolutely ethereal as the mousse is silky and incredibly textured. An absolutely stunning champagne. Drink 2016-2030-  96

 

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Awesome picture here of Todd Alexander, head winemaker at Force Majeure Vineyards.

Awesome picture here of Todd Alexander, head winemaker at Force Majeure Vineyards.

Interview with Todd Alexander, Head Winemaker at Force Majeure Vineyards

August 9, 2016

A winemaker with serious pedigree, Todd Alexander serves as head winemaker at Force Majeure winery. Prior to coming to Washington, Todd served as winemaker at the famed Bryant Family Vineyards in Napa Valley, where he was crafting cult-worthy Cabernets. Todd learned from some of the brightest minds in wine there including legendary consultant Michelle Roland and eminent vineyard manager David Abreu. Todd has been in Washington since 2014 and I recently had the chance to visit with him at a dinner. I found him to be incredibly knowledgeable, and well-spoken as he is clearly passionate about Washington wines. I am very excited to see how this very cool winery, Force Majeure, continues to develop. Todd recognizes the immense potential of great Cabernet on Red Mountain and is very excited about the future of the Washington wine industry. Here is my interview with Todd Alexander, head winemaker at Force Majeure Vineyards.

WWB: You have a wide depth of winemaking experience in Napa Valley, previously working at Plumpjack/Cade. How did you first land in Napa and eventually move to the esteemed winery Bryant Family Vineyard?

TA: I actually began making wine in Texas, of all places. I have family there and after college, I wanted to get into winemaking. For some reason, going to California at the time seemed a bit daunting, so I wanted to go somewhere and get some cellar experience and more education before making the leap to California. I found a winery there and worked in the cellar for a couple of years, at the same time getting an education in viticulture and enology. After a couple of years, once I got comfortable and had some experience, I was ready to jump into the middle of California winemaking and get serious, to really challenge myself. I was hired on at Plumpjack and I worked there on the winemaking team, and also worked at CADE on Howell Mountain at the same time (CADE is owned by Plumpjack). I did that for a couple of years, really absorbed a lot and deepened my knowledge and experience. Then I heard about an assistant winemaker opportunity at Bryant Family Vineyard from an acquaintance in Napa, and I submitted by resume there. I did a few interviews and hit it off with them, so I was hired on. The rest, as they say, is history…

WWB: What are some of the differences in terroir that you notice between growing great Cabernet in Napa and growing great Cabernet on Red Mountain?

TA: Soils types are an obvious one. And Napa gets that nice blanket of fog during the summer that keeps mornings nice and cool, but they also get serious heat there too, not unlike what we get here. The days are longer here in Washington and our season can be a little shorter. I do think in some ways the areas are similar. The Cabernet that comes off our Red Mountain vineyard does tend to remind me a bit of Howell Mountain in Napa. We have structured wines with good acidity, and a rusticity in the tannins that I think you sometimes see in Howell Mountain wines. Nice complexity in the aromatics. That said, Cab that I’ve been producing from Red Mountain has fine tannins that eventually become silky and layered with time. There is finesse, not just power. The wines will age well if grown and made properly. I think the wines in Red Mountain and in this region can be as good as anywhere, or I wouldn’t be here.

WWB: What are some of the challenges with making red wine in very hot vintages like 2014 and 2015? Are there any vineyard management techniques that you're using to manage the heat?

TA: In hot vintages like 2014 and 2015, canopy management becomes even more critical. You want to shade the fruit, just allowing dappled light on the clusters rather than direct sunlight, so shoot positioning is important, and having a healthy canopy that’s the right size, balancing the vine, is critical. For us, irrigation is also very important in those vintages to get the vines through, as well as good nutrition with things like compost, and pest control. So, there are a number of factors and things you have to pay close attention to, but that’s just like every year. If you get those elements right, your juice chemistry won’t be out of whack. You’re going to see elevated sugars and alcohol levels in hotter vintages, that’s just the way it is, unless you’re going to manipulate things heavily or pick too early. I don’t do that, I like the vintage to show through, I’m not trying to make the same wines every year, that’s not interesting.

WWB: Many Washington winemakers that I've spoken to are excited about this vintage, which could mean another early harvest. What are your thoughts on this vintage thusfar (July 26, 2016)?

TA: I am always optimistic that we can make great wine every year, I don’t get scared, I am confident in what we do and I know what my team is capable of doing. I don’t lose my composure if things aren’t perfect with the weather, because you can’t control that, you just deal with it. 2016 got off to a nervous start with early bud break and some early heat, but then things leveled off in June and July, until the end of July anyway, where we had a heat spike, but that was bound to happen. Things slowed down a bit with temps in the upper 70s and low 80s, like a lot of June and July were, so that was nice. This year our vineyard looks the best it has looked since I have been up here, and I think 2016 will be a great vintage if things go on like they have been. We made some terrific wines in 2014 and 2015 despite the heat. Next year we are supposed to be in a La Nina pattern, so it may be cooler. That’ll be interesting if that comes to pass.

WWB: Do you have any favorite Napa producers or any other favorite Washington producers that you particularly enjoy?

TA: Napa - Bryant Family, Pott Wines, Keplinger, Myriad, Lagier Meredith, Colgin, Dunn, Outpost, Hourglass, Failla, Relic, Abreu, Vine Hill Ranch, Peter Michael, Kongsgaard, Hudson…there are more. My love for California wines extends far beyond Napa though. Washington (and Oregon side of Walla Walla) - Mark Ryan, Avennia, Betz, Reynvaan, Gramercy, Analemma, Syncline, Delmas, Rotie, Leonetti, Figgins, Cayuse to name some I enjoy. I had a terrific Syrah from II Vintners also. There are still a lot of producers here that I haven’t tried yet.

WWB: Can you talk about a winemaker that has particularly inspired you?

TA: I couldn’t pick just one. I have gotten inspiration from a number of winemakers and growers, some of whom are friends of mine - Laurent Charvin, Vincent Maurel, Henri Bonneau in Chateauneuf du Pape, Helen Keplinger, Manfred Krankl, Justin Smith, John Alban, David Abreu, Clare Carver and Brian Marcy, Maggie Harrison and others - lots of people in this profession inspire me for different reasons. There are different elements, philosophies and aesthetics of different people that I get inspired by. It could be winemaking, could be philosophy, farming, or more practical matters. I am always discovering people and things that inspire me, thankfully. I tend to gravitate toward people who are a bit iconoclastic, but not over the top with ego, or who go out of their way to be wild and crazy to the point where it’s a gimmick. At the same time, I appreciate people who understand the value of history, tradition and longevity, and I like people who are inspired and passionate, visionary.

WWB: You're exceedingly well-traveled. Do you have any particular winemaking regions or producers that have inspired you?

TA: I wouldn’t say I’m exceedingly well-traveled! There are still many places that I haven’t been and want to explore. I have way too many influential producers to list, I wouldn’t know where to stop. But definitely the Rhône valley, Burgundy and Bordeaux, I could travel to those places endlessly and never tire of them. I like the history there, as well as the wines, people and way of life. Spain and Italy I also love, I really want to go explore Bierzo. I really enjoyed touring Hungary, and I’m intrigued by some of the eastern European producers and what they’re doing there. I need to carve out some time to get over there and check it out more. I love Oregon, Washington and California too, everything has its place.

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Great looking label for this tremendous new wine, the 2013 La Rata Red Wine. Try to get your hands on this one while you can!

Great looking label for this tremendous new wine, the 2013 La Rata Red Wine. Try to get your hands on this one while you can!

La Rata

August 8, 2016

‘Wow!’ I contemplated to myself, as I took in the intoxicating aromatics from the glass. ‘The Umami!’ Christophe proclaimed. I looked at the talented Cayuse assistant vigneronne, Elizabeth Bourcier, responsible for making the wine, and she simply nodded. Last spring I had the chance to visit Cayuse Vineyards and interview Elizabeth, who has been working under the guidance of the eminent vigneron, Christophe Baron, since 2008. During the tasting portion I had the chance to try Elizabeth’s new release of La Rata, the 2013 which follows up the enticing 2012 bottling.

The ‘La Rata’ is a bottling like no other in Washington. It is Elizabeth’s take on Clos Erasmus wines of the Priorat region, as she was initially inspired after tasting these incredible wines made by head winemaker Daphne Glorian. Elizabeth saw a great potential to blend both Grenache and Cabernet together, since they wines tend to ripen at the same time. Elizabeth chose to use Grenache from Armada Vineyard and Cabernet from En Cerise Vineyard. The wine was named “The Rat.” And then Spanglish-cized: ‘La Rata’. The name ‘La Rata’ also connects with Elizabeth, as her zodiac sign is the rat.  The new 2013 ‘La Rata’ Red Wine shows a similar but slightly more fruit forward fruit profile than her 2012 bottling. I would say that while both wines have a graceful minerality, the 2013 is slightly more intense, capturing the heat of that great vintage. The minerality is there, however, as this wine will cellar gracefully into the next decade. The texture of this wine is absolutely gorgeous as the 2013 ‘La Rata’ shows a slightly higher viscosity than the 2012 bottling as well. The 2013 ‘La Rata’ is only offered by Full Pull Wines and is very challenging to find in the market but you might be able to find it online. Learn more at http://laratawines.com/wines.html Here is my review of the absolutely outstanding new 2013 La Rata Red Wine by Elizabeth Bourcier of Cayuse Vineyards.

2013 La Rata Red Wine- This absolutely incredible bottling follows up the amazing ’12 La Rata Red Wine. The wine is made by Elizabeth Bourcier, Cayuse’s assistant vigneronne, who was first inspired by Clos Erasmus wines and wanted to combine Armada Vineyard Grenache with En Cerise Vineyard Cabernet. The resultant 60% Grenache and 40% Cabernet red blend is a stunner. As the wine slowly develops in the glass, it begins to release dense aromatics of wet stone, red cherry, smoke with red raspberry with rose petal accents. The aromatics are intense and bring you back to the glass for more. There are ripe aromas of cherry cola, wet stone, red raspberry, orange rind and lavender. The wine possesses a gorgeous minerality and balance. The novelty of this wine is apparent as there is really nothing like this in Washington. The texture is voluptuous as this it is impossible to resist this intense wine.  Drink 2016-2028- 95

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I think this is just a beautiful picture of the old, gnarled vines at the Kronos Vineyard, one of the great vineyards in Napa Valley.

I think this is just a beautiful picture of the old, gnarled vines at the Kronos Vineyard, one of the great vineyards in Napa Valley.

Corison Winery

August 4, 2016

Cathy Corison is a Napa icon that has a great story. Not originally a winemaker, Cathy saved up some money and purchased a great property with her husband on the valley floor, not far from Robert Mondavi. Despite the property being in poor shape, Cathy knew that Napa Valley floor terroir was very special. This vineyard on the property, the Kronos Vineyard, had been abandoned for several years and needed a lot of tender loving care. Over several years Cathy was able to nurture it back to life and now she has award winning Cabernet from the vineyard. The proof is in every bottle of her Kronos Vineyard Cabernet. Cathy saw the great potential for valley floor Cabernet and honed in on her winemaking craft. Cathy has noted that the Kronos Vineyard has a silky elegance that is almost Bordelaise due to the old age of the vines. It is no surprise that her wines have gained international acclaim. A recent visit to her winery impressed as we were able to see the potential of her young wines, and pair them with an older bottling that was drinking in its sweet spot. I was hugely impressed with her 2013 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet (WWB, 94) which comes from a hot vintage but shows incredible poise an balanced alongside rich fruit flavors. Her 2012 Corison ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet (WWB, 94) was amazing and had settled a bit in the past year showing softer tannins and its feminine side alongside a gorgeous array of fruit. While these wines are typically hard to find in the Northwest, they can be ordered from the winery direct. Learn more about Corison wines at http://www.corison.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines from Corison.

2013 Corison Napa Valley Cabernet- This gorgeous wine starts with aromatics of mocha, sage, anise and mocha. This is currently highly tannic and intense this will need time to unwind. The wine has deep flavors of blackberry cobbler, mocha, anise and creme de cassis with suggestions of pipe tobacco. This is gorgeous and layered wine that need a ton of time in the cellar for the tannins to settle and the fruit to fully integrate. Give this slumbering monster at least two more years. Drink 2018-2040- 94

2012 Corrison ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet- This impressive Cabernet wine starts with aromatics of red bell pepper, anise, creme de cassis and mocha. There are rich flavors of wild blackberry, milk chocolate, anise, sagebrush and cassis with hints of nutmeg and coffee grounds. This drinks beautifully straight out of the bottle, but consider giving this another hour in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2016-2030- 94

2006 Corison Napa Valley Cabernet- This impressive bottling begins with aromatics of pipe tobacco, creme de cassis, red bell pepper, sage, anise and mocha. There are rich flavors of anise, creme de cassis, spicebox and red bell pepper. This wine is balanced and lithe, having lovely depth, range and complexity and showing a left bank Bordelaise feel. Drink 2016-2028- 93

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Renee Ary crafts some fantastic red and white wines at Duckhorn Vineyards in Napa.

Renee Ary crafts some fantastic red and white wines at Duckhorn Vineyards in Napa.

Interview with Renee Ary, Head Winemaker at Duckhorn Vineyards

August 3, 2016

Today we have a very big interview on WWB. One of the huge names in Napa, Duckhorn Vineyards has focused their program on crafting exceptional Merlot since the 1980s. I recently had the chance to review their new lineup of red and white wines and was very impressed. Head winemaker, Renee Ary, has an esteemed background which includes previous stints at Robert Mondavi Winery, as well as studies from UC Davis. She has a background in chemistry and her scientific knowledge has proven to be very helpful for her in crafting silky Merlots. I recently had the chance to sit down with her and talk about her wines. I found her to be incredible articulate and thoughtful as her passion shows in the glass. Learn more about her wines at duckhornvineyards.com.  Here is my exciting new interview with Renee Ary, head winemaker at Duckhorn Vineyards

WWB: Can you talk about your winemaking experiences prior to coming to Duckhorn Vineyards? What were some of your big influences in wine?

RA: Prior to joining Duckhorn in 2003, I worked at Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville.  I started there as a lab technician in 1999 and moved into an enologist role after two years.  Mondavi was a great training ground for my hands-on technical experience and really, where I fell in love with the industry.  I earned a degree in chemistry and art from Saint Mary’s College and had no idea that I was going to end up in the wine industry. As it turned out, my degree proved to be a great background for a career in winemaking.  I enjoy both the science and art of wine and the passion and pride that surrounds the industry.  Over the years, I have taken classes at UC Davis and the Napa Valley College to augment my hands-on experience.  I have been influenced by many people throughout my journey, both in the vineyards and cellar.  I continue to learn and be challenged, which keeps me motivated and always striving to make better wines.

WWB: Duckhorn Vineyards has gained an international reputation for great Merlot. Your 2013 Duckhorn ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot (WWB, 93) was no exception. Can you talk about this rich and layered Merlot, as well as the vineyard?

RA: Three Palms is rightfully legendary. It’s a remarkable 83-acre vineyard planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and a bit of Malbec.  It is located at the southern tip of the Calistoga AVA, which is the warmest part of the AVA.  This unique site is anchored in well drained rocky soils which imparts a fair amount of stress to the vines.  This stress is translated into depth, concentration, and structure and makes for wonderful aging potential.  The 2013 reds are dense, complex, and structured.  When you take a fantastic vintage and pair it with an incredible site, the results are magnified and that shows through in the wine.  The 2013 Three Palms Merlot builds wonderfully on the 2012.  It is a notch darker, more complex, and overall, more structured.  You will find beautiful notes of red and black fruit, sweet spices, wet river rock, and black tea.  This is a wine that you will be able to cellar for decades.

WWB: I was extremely impressed with your 2014 Duckhorn Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which combined rich fruit flavors, moderate oak and nice minerality. Can you talk about some of your winemaking philosophies when attempting to make great Napa Chardonnay?

RA: Chardonnay is a winemaker’s wine and so many times, the varietal can get lost underneath heavy-handed winemaking.  We wanted to make a Chardonnay that was true to the Duckhorn style, which is classic, balanced, and food-friendly, and I am really happy with our Chardonnay program and where it’s going.  Like all wines, fruit sourcing is extremely important for both quality and stylistic reasons.  Our Chardonnay is sourced from the cooler regions of the valley—Carneros, Oak Knoll, South Napa, and Atlas Peak.  This allows us to ripen the fruit while maintaining great acidity. That acid is key to balancing the weight and texture of the wine.  Our Napa Chardonnay is 90% barrel fermented, went through just 45% malolactic fermentation, and was aged in 40% new French oak—all of which were part of achieving the balance, structure and refined texture we strive for.  We also do some heavy lees stirring early on and then taper off mid-aging cycle once we achieve the weight and texture we are looking for.

WWB: Many winemakers in Napa are excited about their 2014 red wines. What are you expecting with your next year’s releases for Merlot and Cabernet? How do you see the 2014 vintage being different from the 2013 vintage?

RA: I am also very excited about the 2014 wines.  Following 2012 and 2013, 2014 delivered our third great vintage in a row.  The 2014 reds have wonderfully focused flavors and resolved tannins. They will be very approachable upon release, while still providing great longevity and ageability.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Duckhorn Vineyards wines, what wines are typically in your glass? Do you have any favorite other producers of Merlot, maybe others from California, Bordeaux and Washington?

RA: For me, drinking wine is all about a mood and I enjoy all varieties.  I am very lucky to be at a company that works with so many great winemakers and wines.  When I’m not drinking one of our other brands, you will find me drinking some Dry Creek Cabs and Zins or Russian River Valley Pinots.  I really like Hartford wines and their focus.  I also like Dutcher Crossing and Stuhlmuller.  I’m a big fan of Howell Mountain Cabs in general and varietal Petit Verdot.  I also like white Burgundy for its age-ability.  As far as Merlots go, I really respect the Provenance Merlot’s and I think Marty Clubb is doing a great job with the program at L’Ecole 41.

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