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Superstar winemaker, Aryn Morell, and his wife, Edith, craft some gorgeous new wines for their namesake winery, Morell-Pena.

Superstar winemaker, Aryn Morell, and his wife, Edith, craft some gorgeous new wines for their namesake winery, Morell-Pena.

Morell-Pena

November 27, 2018

One of the great project wineries you may have not heard of yet out of Walla Walla, Morell-Pena is the brainchild of talented Washington winemaker, Aryn Morell and his wife, Edith, first started in 2014. The idea was to focus on limited production Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — a wonderfully unique concept in the state. As many of you know, Aryn Morell has become one of the state’s most prolific winemakers, making wine for Matthews, Ardor, Tenor and his own label, Alleromb. Aryn and Edith have thoughtfully chosen to name their Chardonnay bottlings after their daughters, Gemma, Ysabella and Camylla and crafting each wine after their own individual personalities. 

Up there with the best sparkling wine out of Washington that I have sampled this year, the 2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 91) shows racy acidity and bright citrus tones. This is a striking effort that showcases the Morell’s impressive arsenal of of winemaking. I really enjoyed all of his new Chardonnay releases, rating all at 92 points or exceptional, all of which were true to the style of wine that Aryn was attempting to create.  The best wine I tried was whimsically named the 2015 Morell-Pena ‘The Royal Bull$#!+) Syrah (WWB, 93) which shows wonderful range and earthy terroir that is delicious now but will age well for a decade. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://www.morell-pena.com Here are the great new wines by Morell-Pena.

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2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc de Blanc’ Sparkling Wine- This was aged for three months in concrete prior to bottling, as this is a zero dosage bottling. The wine shows lovely citrus tones on the nose with kumquat and lemon rind shining brightly. This has wonderful astringency and is wonderfully refreshing. White flower, kumquat and wonderful acidity shines. This is up there with the best in the state. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc de Noir’ Sparkling Wine- The 2017 Morell-Pena ‘Blanc De Noir’ Sparkling Wine shows a powerful nose with intense citrus and melon coming in. The wine shows a wonderful astringency and texture with really good weight. Wild strawberry, melon and citrus rind flavors come to mind. This is a serious Sparkling. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2017 Morell-Pena Chardonnay- Crafted in a fresher style, this Chardonnay begins with aromas of honeydew melon, poached pear and creme brûlée on the nose. The texture to the wine is truly outstanding with wonderful brightness and a long, lingering cream and citrus driven finish. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2018-2024- 91


2015 Morell-Pena ‘Gemma Camaryn’ Chardonnay- This Chardonnay shows a deeper hue with aromas of vanilla cream, nutmeg and creme brûlée. The weight and balance to this wine is truly outstanding. Wonderfully rich, this natural wine shows a really good opulence and mouthfeel on the palate. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Morell-Pena ‘Ysabella Bjork’ Chardonnay- This nose has wonderful vanilla cream, honeydew melon and citrus rind aromatics that build in the glass. The mouthfeel and balance to this wine is fantastic with vanilla cream, Meyer lemon zest and nutmeg. This has wonderful fruit weight on the mid-palate that entices. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Morell-Pena ‘Camylla Loren’ Chardonnay- Showing a beautiful dark hue, this begins with aromas of wild mushroom and light earthy tones with wet stone and vanilla cream. This shows good intensity and minerality with a wonderful mouthfeel and excellent weight. This finishes strong with vanilla cream. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Morell-Pena ‘Gemma Camaryn’ Chardonnay- This shows vanilla cream and Meyer lemon zest on the nose. The palate shows a really good minerality and mouthfeel with god intensity. This has a wonderfully rich finish. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2017 Morell-Pena Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this great Rose begins with aromas of rose petals, red cherry and guava on the nose. The palate shows good richness and intensity with wonderful richness and texture. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2015 The Royal Bull ‘Royal Bull($#!+)- The wine is sourced from the Lawrence and Stoneridge Vineyards, a blend of Tempranillo and Grenache. The 2015 Syrah starts with aromas of black tea, smoked brisket, black olive tapenade and wet rock. The palate shows a sexy mouthfeel and wonderful richness with red fruits and citrus rind shining through with earthy and smoky tones. Only 201 cases made of this great wine. Drink 2018-2028- 93

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Rob Campisi crafts some outstanding new wines for Dunham Cellars.

Rob Campisi crafts some outstanding new wines for Dunham Cellars.

Dunham Cellars

November 26, 2018

One of the great stops in Walla Walla, Dunham Cellars was first founded in 1995, and is located in the Airport District. Dunham produces one of the great lineups in Washington, ranging from their Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Trutina (Bordeaux style blend), Three Legged Red (red table wine) and the "Shirley Mays" Chardonnay, a dedication to Eric Dunham’s grandmother. With their friendly and knowledgable staff and laid back atmosphere Dunham has been a favorite stop of mine for more than fifteen years. 

Rob Campisi resides over the winemaking at Dunham. He has been at the winery for many years and has crafted a really good new lineup. Look to the 2015 Dunham Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92), which is downright delicious and delivers serious dark fruits. Dunham has gained a national reputation for their Riesling wines and the 2015 Dunham ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Riesling (WWB, 91), shows a wonderful bouquet and tension. This is a serious wine that will pair marvelously with shellfish and sushi. The best wine that I sampled in this great lineup was the 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Late Harvest’ Riesling (WWB, 95) which is insanely good and is one of the best Washington dessert wines that I have tried in a year. Learn more about this great winery at dunhamcellars.com. Here are the wonderful new release wines from Dunham Cellars.


2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Riesling- This shows nice freshness and tension, as tree and citrus fruits dominate with a touch of Meyer lemon rind. This shows really good persistence and will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2018-2024- 91


2016 Dunham Cellars Late Harvest Riesling- A limited case production this outstanding Riesling (27.3 RS) sourced from the Lewis Vineyard. The wine shows a golden hue and takes on apricot jelly, bananas foster and Meyer lemon oil. The palate brings so much intensity and purity of fruit. Candied pineapple, mango, apricot jelly and Meyer lemon oil flavors all marvelously come together in the glass. Drink 2018-2028- 95 


2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Shirley Mays’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Kenny Hill Vineyard, as well as the Lewis Vineyard, this begins with wonderful aromas of banana, poached pear and brioche;. The wine shows a seamless mouthfeel as it glides through the mid-palate. Brioche, vanilla creme brulee, and bananas foster all come together beautifully in the glass. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Three Legged Red’ Red Wine- This begins with aromas of smoke, black olive tapenade and black tea and a touch of milk chocolate. The palate shows good richness and tension with black tea, blackberry cobbler and mocha flavors. Drink 2018-2024- 89


2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The wine shows 54% Cabernet with also a smaller percentage of Merlot (34%) with lesser parts Malbec and Cabernet Franc that was aged in 30% new oak prior to bottling. This wine begins with aromas of black tea, Asian spice, sagebrush and blackberry cobbler. This shows a good combination of richness and tension from this warm vinatage. Drink 2018-2026- 91

Dunham Cellars 2015 Cabernet.png


2015 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is a fantastic effort from this warm vintage. The wine shows toasty oak that wraps around blackberry cordial and smoked meats with sagebrush undertones on the nose. The palate is soft, delivering a silky mouthfeel. Light tannins connect with copious dark fruits and chocolate flavors. This is downright delicious now. Enjoy this in the next eight plus years. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The 2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah was largely aged in puncheon (40% new) as it is sourced from the Lewis, Phinney Hill Vineyards as well as the Kenny Hill Vineyard. This starts off with smoked pork shoulder, blueberry compote and cocoa powder. This is truly outstanding Syrah that is drinking beautifully now but will continue to evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2014 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah- The ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah by Dunham Cellars was aged in French oak puncheons. The wine is Phelps clone Syrah that was planted in the late 1990s. This shows a wonderful purity of fruit with black fruits being dominant and chocolate edge as well. Drink 2018-2030- 93

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Here I am pictured with Erica Orr (L) and Lisa Baer (middle) at Baer Winery, one of Woodinville’s great wineries.

Here I am pictured with Erica Orr (L) and Lisa Baer (middle) at Baer Winery, one of Woodinville’s great wineries.

Baer Winery

November 21, 2018

One of Washington’s great boutique wineries, Baer was founded in 2000 by Lance Baer. Lance was known for crafting exceptional red wines as many of his wines were met with critical acclaim. Since the tragic passing of Lance, now more than ten years ago, Erica Orr has taken over as winemaker. Erica Orr got her start in the wine industry back in 1998, working her first harvest with eminent winemaker Cathy Corison in the Napa Valley. She immediately caught the wine bug and enrolled in the enology master’s degree program at UC Davis where she completed her master’s degree in 2003. Erica also has a bachelor’s degree in biochemistry from UC Berkeley and three years of research experience as a biochemistry lab technician for 2009 Nobel Laureate Dr. Elizabeth Blackburn at UC San Francisco. 

Her background in chemistry gives her a very precise, scientific winemaking style that I have been impressed by over the years. She has become one of the great winemakers in the state with her highly focused, Bordelaise style, carefully crating red wines from the famed Stillwater Creek Vineyard, that are built to age. Located in the Woodinville Warehouse District, While Baer focuses on crafting red blends they also make a downright killer Chardonnay. Their 2017 Baer ‘Shard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) is the best release of this wine that I have sampled since they have made the wine. It is wonderfully astringent and shows really good weight and range. This wine is a superb value. The red wines were just as good, if not better. Look to the 2015 Baer ‘Star’ Merlot (WWB, 93) which is absolutely fantastic now but will continue to age gracefully for a decade or more. I highly recommend that you seek out the great new lineup of Baer wines. Learn more about this great Woodinville winery at at baerwinery.com Here are the great new releases by Baer

Baer Winery Logo.png


2017 Baer ‘Shard’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Shard’ by superstar winemaker Erica Orr shows really good aromatic range from sourdough bread to kiwi to vanilla creme brulee. The palate shows really good brightness and richness with vanilla cream, Pazzaz apple and kiwi with nutmeg accents. This is seriously good and shows wonderful intensity. Enjoy this in the short-term while the bright minerality remains. Drink 2018-2024- 92


2015 Baer ‘Star’ Merlot- Entirely sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard, located on the Royal Slope of the Columbia Valley, this outstanding bottling shows a really good purity of fruit on the nose with red cherry, boysenberry liquor and sagebrush accents. The palate shows some good mid-palate weight as red currant jelly, red cherry pie, and suggestions of chocolate pie flavors wonderfully combine in the glass. Bright, showing good acidity considering the heat of the vintage, this excellent wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 Baer ‘Callisto’ Red Wine- The ‘Callisto’ is a compelling blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (57%) with the remainder Syrah (27%), Petit Verdot (15%) and a hint of Merlot (1%). The Cabernet is quite prominent on the nose with creme de cassis and graphite aromas connecting with lighter sagebrush and chocolate tones in the glass. Silky and compelling in the mouth, anise, cassis and black cherry cake flavors all impress. Showing good richness and minerality this is an outstanding effort by superstar winemaker Erica Orr. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 Baer ‘Arctos’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard, the ‘Arctos’ is a spectacular bottling by Baer. The wine shows true Cabernet character with red bell pepper, cigar ash, blackberry cobbler and milk chocolate the fills the nose. The palate shows good mid-palate weight and intensity, with dark fruits that connect with mocha and sagebrush tones. Downright delicious, this beautiful wine will age well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 Baer Malbec- Showing off deepest hue of the great new Baer lineup, the 2015 Baer Malbec begins with a good combination of blue and dark fruits that fill the nose. The palate is decadent, mineral-driven and exceedingly delicious. The palate essentially mimics the nose with blueberry compote, milk chocolate and blackberry preserves. Truly one of the best bottlings in the state, with wonderful viscosity and tension, the 2015 Baer Malbec will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2018-2030- 93

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Here we have a few of many beautiful wines that would sit marvelously at your Thanksgiving table.

Here we have a few of many beautiful wines that would sit marvelously at your Thanksgiving table.

Pacific Northwest Wines for Thanksgiving

November 20, 2018

Pacific Northwest Wines For Thanksgiving


As Thanksgiving nears I wanted to share some great wines from our Pacific Northwest region that I would recommend to pair with turkey. I’ve had the chance to review more than a thousand wines from the Pacific Northwest so far this year and with my sommelier background I have some enticing pairings in store for you. Pairing Northwest wines with turkey is actually quite easy. Since people choose a cornucopia of side dishes at their Thanksgiving table, I thought it would be most helpful for the turkey pairing recommendation and explaining why it works well.


Sparkling Wines


2015 Argyle ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 92)- This is viscous and lithe at the same time with marvelous tree fruit flavors and a buttery finish that will complement nicely both turkey and rich sides. 


2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 91)- What I love most about this pairing is not only the weight and tension but lovely saline streak that pairs well with salted side dishes.

2014 ROCO Wines ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 94)- Winemaker Rollin Soles is a master of crafting marvelous sparkling wine. This one is truly one of the best in North America, with serious weight and verve that will stand up to any rich bird.


Rose Wines


2017 Big Table Farm Rose (WWB, 93)- This works well with the beautiful red fruits and weight of the wine that comes from the barrel aging that they do. The light red fruits also will marvelously complement cranberry sauce.


2017 DeLille Cellars Rose (WWB, 93)- This wine was the joint top-scoring wine from my 2018 Rose Report. It is rich, showing a wonderful texture. That will stand up to turkey really well. 


2017 Gramercy Cellars Rose (WWB, 92)- Again, the textural elements of the scintillating Rose match well with turkey. I love the weight and minerality of this gorgeous wine.


White Wines


2017 Cristom Pinot Gris (WWB, 92)- This is one of the great Pinot Gris wines that I have sampled in the past year, with tremendous weight and beautiful tree fruit flavors that stand up well to any bird.


2016 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95)- This downright stunner of a Chardonnay has a marvelous mouthfeel and complements any buttery side dish (rich stuffing, mashed potatoes etc.).


2016 Kerloo Cellars ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91)- Winemaker Ryan Crane makes some of the best Chardonnay in the state. This effort is earthy and Burgundian but finishes with some nice butter and cream. It is well-poised and works well with cutting through any buttery side dishes. 


Pinot Noir Wines


2016 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94)- This is one of the best Nuthouse Pinots I have sampled in the past fifteen years. It is earthy, fruity and has marvelous texture, as this versatile Pinot will match not only the weight of the bird but the acidity will cut through any creamy side.


2016 Knudsen Vineyards Pinot Noir (WWB, 92)- I love the earthy aspects of this great Pinot Noir but this, too, has the weight to stand up to turkey.


2016 Megan Anne Cellars ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92)- Megan Anne Cellars is an Oregon winery founded by famed Washington winemaker, Mark Ryan McNeilly. This new edition is jam packed with rich dark fruits and earthy terroir. The combination of weight and earthy tones matches this marvelously with not only the turkey but earth-driven mushroom dishes.

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Jean-Francois Pellet is the superstar winemaker behind the great new lineup of Pepper Bridge wines.

Jean-Francois Pellet is the superstar winemaker behind the great new lineup of Pepper Bridge wines.

Pepper Bridge

November 20, 2018

One of the most beautiful sites in the Walla Walla Valley, Pepper Bridge is perched on a hill with stunning views of the estate vineyards —Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Les Collines, some of the famed vineyards in Washington. It is a gorgeous spot to taste wines, especially in the summer, with its sweeping views of the valley. Pepper Bridge is known for its restrained, Bordelaise style of winemaking, led by their talented head winemaker Jean-François Pellet. A third generation wine grower, Pellet’s wines have received considerable acclaim and he continues to produce seriously good wines for both Pepper Bridge and their sister winery, Amavi Cellars. 

Highly engaging and charismatic, Pellet has degrees in both enology and viticulture and has previously interned in Germany, Switzerland and the Napa Valley. After graduating, he managed vineyards and made wine in Switzerland and Spain. Pellet then worked for Heitz Cellars for four years until he was recruited to work at Pepper Bridge. The new wines by Pellet were outstanding across the board, although I would give a slight edge to the 2014 wines which had a touch more mid-palate stuffing. The wines by Pepper Bridge show good ripeness, great varietal typicity and wonderful tension. Look to the downright delicious 2014 Pepper Bridge ‘Trine’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) which has wonderful weight and tension. Just as good was the amazing 2014 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) which is one foe the cellar with marvelous tension and great Washington Cabernet character. Learn more about this fantastic Walla Walla winery at www.pepperbridge.com. Here are the great new release wines from Pepper Bridge winery.

Pepper Bridge 2018 red wines.jpg


2014 Pepper Bridge ‘Trine’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Trine’ by Pepper Bridge is a compelling blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, and 34% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder lesser parts Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine has been bottled since March 2016 and starts off with red currant jelly, cigar ash and blackberry pie aromas. The palate shows wonderful poise and balance. Delicious red and dark fruit flavors mingle with chocolate and sagebrush undertones. Inviting and downright delicious now, this gorgeous wine will cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2015 Pepper Bridge ‘Trine’ Red Wine- Comprised of mainly Cabernet Franc (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (28%) and Merlot (18%), with smaller portions Malbec and Petit Verdot, this wine was aged in 100% French oak (39% new) for 17 months prior to bottling in March 2017. The ‘Trine’ shows an aromatic range of smoke, green belll pepper and copious dark fruits that fill the nose. The palate reveals a silky texture and a lithe acidity. Roasted fig, blackberry jam, cigar box and milk chocolate covered dark cherry flavors all mingle nicely. This will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2018-2030- 92


2015 Pepper Bridge Merlot- The 2015 Pepper Bridge Merlot is an excellent bottling which was sourced from the Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Octave Vineyards.The Merlot has 14% Cabernet Franc and 7% Malbec blended in. This shows perfumed red fruits and toasty oak on the nose. The palate has a smooth texture and lovely mouthfeel. Lip-smacking acidity connects with red cherry cordial, black tea, and blackberry pie flavors. While this is rich this shows Bordelaise tension. Enjoy this delicious effort over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2014 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon by Pepper Bridge is a gorgeous wine. The wine was sourced from the Seven Hills, Octave, Pepper Bridge and Waliser Vineyards and was aged in 47% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. The Cabernet Sauvignon opens with a bright bouquet of loganberry preserves, black tea and Asian spices with smoky undertones. Firm and dense, with good weight, the wine has nice dark fruit and chocolate tones that connect with sagebrush and crushed mint herbaceousness. Downright delicious now, give this beautiful wine a one hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2015 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon-  Sourced from largely the Seven Hills and Octave Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley, this great wine is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The Cabernet Sauvignon shows herbal tones on the nose with anise and blackberry cobbler. Soft and round on the mouth, this shows black fruits that mingle with earthy and milk chocolate undertones. Enjoy this fantastic effort over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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Dr. Kit Singh crafts some outstanding wines at Lauren Ashton Cellars.

Dr. Kit Singh crafts some outstanding wines at Lauren Ashton Cellars.

Lauren Ashton Cellars

November 19, 2018

One of the great spots in Woodinville, Lauren Ashton was founded around ten years ago by highly talented winemaker and dentist Dr. Kit Singh. Dr. Singh’s impressive winemaking continues to evolve nicely with each vintage. He crafts wines that are technically very well-made, with wonderful texture and mouthfeel. While he continues to manage his dental practice, Dr. Singh studied viticulture and enology education at South Seattle Community College and also took classes at University of California at Davis enology program before spending two years interning at famed DeLille Cellars in Woodinville. He thoughtfully named this great winery after his children, Ashley Lauren and Ashton Troy as the self-described ‘control freak’ has marvelous attention to detail with each wine release.

Dr. Singh sources from a range of fruit from Columbia Valley to Red Mountain. These are some of the best vineyards in the state including Quintessence, Weinbau, Sagemoor, Ambassador and Dineen vineyards. He crafted a stunning new Rose, the 2017 Lauren Ashton Rose (WWB, 91) which is an amazing stand alone wine that has wonderful texture and tension. I loved his new release 2014 Lauren Ashton Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which is showing marvelously now but will have a long life in the cellar. Learn more about the winery at http://laurenashtoncellars.com/


2017 Lauren Ashton Rose- 2017 Lauren Ashton Rose- The 2017 Lauren Ashton Rose is a fantastic wine that shows some sterling minerality. Lighter rose petal and watermelon aromatics fill the nose. The palate has a nice texture with red cherry, red raspberry and guava flavors. This crisp wine is a gorgeous effort by superstar winemaker Kit Singh. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2017 Lauren Ashton Riesling- This bright colored Riesling starts off with a bouquet of white grapefruit, Granny Smith apple and cut grass with a touch of wet stone. Tree and citrus fruit flavors fill the palate. The texture to this wine is silky smooth, as is the finish that rounds out this wine marvelously. This is just an exceptional effort by superstar winemaker Dr. Kit Singh. Drink 2018-2024- 92


2016 Lauren Ashton Roussanne- This starts off with aromatics of ripe cantalope, green papaya and a touch of honey. Bright and light on its feet, the wine shows off a wonderful astringency. Gravenstein apple, unripe mango and brioche accents complete this lovely Roussanne by the talented Kit Singh. Drink 2018-2024- 92

Lauren Ashton Cellars 2014 'Cuvee Arlette'.jpg


2014 Lauren Ashton ‘Cuvee Arlette’ Red Wine- The ‘Cuvee Arlette’ is a compelling blend of mostly Merlot with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine starts off with bright aromas of black raspberry fudge, with a touch of coffee grounds and baking spices. The mouthfeel here is generous and downright voluptuous as the wine shows off dark cherry, cigar shavings, milk chocolate and Asian spice flavors that connect with nice tension. A long ager, this can be enjoyed over the next fifteen years but is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2018-2030- 92

2014 Lauren Ashton ‘Cuvee Estelle’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Cuvee Estelle’ is a blend of largely Merlot with lesser parts Cabernet Sauvignon and the faintest hints of Petit Verdot and Malbec. Dark and brooding in the glass, this shows a highly perfumed aromatic profile of black tea, Asian spices, cigar shavings and mocha with lighter dark fruit tones currently secondary. The palate shows a marvelous texture, as Dr. Kit Singh has captured a wonderful mouthfeel here that beautifully compliments the Merlot character. Milk chocolate covered cherry, spicebox, tar and blueberry compote flavors come to mind. A complete wine, this is nearly impossible to resist right now but the ‘Cuvee Estelle’ will cellar marvelously for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2014 Lauren Ashton ‘Upland Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘Upland Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Dr. Kit Singh is a fantastic new wine. The nose is gorgeous with rose water, creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and blackberry cobbler aromatics. The palate shows good tension and structure with boysenberry cordial, black forest cake and black olive tapenade. Seductive and gorgeous, this has a long life in the cellar. Needless to say,  this is another stunning wine made by Dr. Singh. Drink 2018-2030- 92

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Darel Allwine is the superstar winemaker at famed Red Mountain winery, Col Solare.

Darel Allwine is the superstar winemaker at famed Red Mountain winery, Col Solare.

Interview with Darel Allwine, Head Winemaker of Col Solare

November 19, 2018

One of the state’s great winemakers and an even better guy, Darel Allwine is the superstar winemaker at Col Solare. Darel had an illustrious career serving our country in the Air Force. Upon retirement, he wasn’t entirely sure what career he would choose. He began learning about winemaking while living in the Tri Cities area and got his start working under famed winemaker Ray Einburger at Columbia Crest. Darel has been with Chateau Ste. Michelle now for 23 years and has been the winemaker at Col Solare since 2013. I recently had the chance to sit down with Darel and chat about his wines as well as his incredible career. I think you will enjoy hearing more about his story. Here is my interview with Darel Allwine, Head Winemaker of Col Solare.


WWB: How did you decide to join the Air Force? Can you talk about some memorable experience while serving our country?


DA: I spent 20 years n the air force and I retired in 1995. I had two different tours in Germany and that was a great experience what I had to do over there during the Cold War. My last experience was in Okinawa, Japan fir six years and did extensive traveling as well. I was also in the Gulf War for a year. There have been some astounding experiences that I had while serving my country but getting into the wine business has happily been the highlight of my life.


WWB: At what point did you realize that you would like to pursue a career in wine?


DA: Getting interested in wine hadn’t even crossed my mind when I moved back to the Tri Cities area. I also worked as a research scientist. There was an ad for a cellar worker at Columbia Crest and I sent them my resume. I had five interviews and my last interview was with Ray Einburger the winemaker there, I started two weeks later. Once I got into it I never looked back. It is astounding what goes into a bottle of wine. The fermentation and vineyards to the aging and blending. I learned a lot from him and also did some online Course work from UC Davis. Washington State University has their program so I did both the enology and viticultural certificate. It has been a good journey. I have been with the Ste. Michelle company for 23 years now. It has been a great journey and wine is such as fascinating aspect of how it is made and there are so many varietals that happen. It is so different and each winemaker has their own nuances for the same kind of wine.


WWB: What was it like working alongside Marcus Notaro? What were some of the challenges with taking over the Col Solare program?


DA: Having worked with Marcus at Columbia Crest, he started there in 1995 as a lab person and then became the enologist for the red wine. I was there as a cellar master for the reserve program. We had worked together extensively for many years. The Col Solare project we both started working there in 2003. When we build the facility here in 2006 we would work together. He taught me a lot of good ideas especially when training my palate and understanding the vineyards and the sources that would dictate the style of wine that we wanted to make. Then he had the opportunity to move down to Napa to make wine for Stags Leap Wine Cellars in early 2013 and after that they were looking for the winemaker position and I interviewed for that and talked with them. They decided to go with me which was a very happy to start. Working with Renzo Cotenella works directly with us as well to help develop the blends and the style as far as we do things. Working with him since the beginning in 2003 has been great. Working with him has been a wonderful part. Red Mountain here can be challenging because of the heat and the vines can struggle. Fruit can be very concentrated and tannic so understanding that through the vineyards and the fermentation process can be a challenge.


WWB:: I am highly impressed with your ‘Component Collection’ bottlings. How did you decide to start that project? Can you talk about your 2015 releases?


DA: The Component Collection wines were first started in 2009. This is exclusive to the winery and is not available on the market. We did a Cabernet in 2009 as well as a Syrah. That was very limited. We didn’t do a 2010 and then did it again in 2011, we had three different varietals that year. WE have continued that from then on. That highlights the vineyard and how it is orientated and controlling the aspect of what we can do with each vine. The Cabernet we ferment each clone in different aspects, from stainless steel to barrels and we can go through and taste each barrel after it is processed and decide to make that selection for the component wines. Typically the rest of the wine in the clone goes into the main blend of Col Solare. It is a barrel selection for the Component wines and then the balance goes into the blend of Col Solare. The 2015 Col Solare Red Wine is as 100% Cabernet Sauvignon so we didn’t have any other varietals blended. The 2015 vintage was hot here and it was sometimes hard to manage the vineyard and keep it healthy when it was so hot in July and also June. Berries were small and very concentrated from the 2015 vintage.


WWB: Harvest has just concluded in 2018. What do we have to expect from this exciting new vintage? Was heat an issue for Red Mountain fruit in 2018?


DA: I think that the 2018 vintage started later in terms of bud break. We were two weeks behind normal, so we had a cooler spring here. This year actually warmed up quite a bit in May and June and moved the physiology of the vine ahead. We were actually ahead of schedule and had bloom and fruit set is typically 14 plus days but this year we had 5-6 days between bloom and fruit set. I think that highlighted how set was put in. We had nice and even clusters. There were really good looking clusters and then the rest of the season we had some 100 degree days but that wasn’t very extensive. We didn’t have many extreme temperatures where we had 14 days in 2015 of 100 degree temperatures. We had a haze of smoke over the vineyards in early August to mid-August but there weren’t any issues from what I could see. That tended to filter out the sun a bit. Late August had perfect temperature and in September with the temperatures in the mid to high 80s was really good, especially the cooling effect at night. We had good ripening and good flavor development. The tannin profile also helped a great deal, not being harsh or bitter. Overall this is going to be an exceptionally good vintage. I started bringing in estate Merlot on September 6th and Cabernet followed. We finished all of our fruit on the 10th of October. It was somewhat condensed but developed really nicely. 

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Genevieve Janssens is the superstar winemaker behind these amazing Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings.

Genevieve Janssens is the superstar winemaker behind these amazing Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings.

Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical Tasting

November 14, 2018

A trip to Napa would not be complete without a trip to the Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve Tasting Room. One of the great places to taste these beautiful aged wines, I have been fortunate enough to sample some incredible aged reserve wines there, including the absolutely epic 1996 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon as well as a 1979 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The Reserve tasting room is unique in Napa as few places afford one to have this special opportunity. For those less familiar with this iconic winery, Robert Mondavi Winery was founded in 1966 and the To Kalon Vineyard, planted at that time, has been renowned for producing some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in the world. 

It is hard to describe the beauty of this winery with its gorgeous vineyards in the background. I had the great opportunity to partake in a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical tasting upon my last visit. I was very impressed with the 2011 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet (WWB, 93) which showed remarkably well, coming from a challenging vintage in Napa Valley. A total show stopper was the 2012 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which came from a near perfect growing season and shows an insanely good range and tension.  I was amazed that the 2014 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) was showing even better. It had an extra layer of density and weight, with a serious core and gobs of minerality. Needless to say, this was a sensational tasting at one of the United State’s great historic wineries. Learn more about Robert Mondavi Winery at http://www.robertmondaviwinery.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines that I recently sampled at Robert Mondavi Winery.

Robert Mondavi Winery 'Reserve' Vertical Tasting.jpg


2011 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2011 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Robert Mondai Winery begins with intense aromas of mocha, sandalwood, milk chocolate, and green bell pepper showing a slightly herbal edge. The weight of this wine is simply amazing considering the obvious heat issues during the vintage. Creme de cassis, mocha, green bell pepper and blueberry compote flavors all nicely combine in the glass. This is drinking marvelously right now and can cellar for another decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 93


2012 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2012 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows intense and hedonistic aromas of graphite, rose petals, creme de cassis, black tea and Asian spice. The heady aromas bring you back to the glass for more decadence. The palate shows remarkable balance and poise with ripe blackberry pie, mocha, anise and sandalwood flavors that marvelously come together. The combination of fruit weight and tension is simply marvelous here. This decadent wine will cellar incredibly well for the next two plus decades. While the cellaring potential is obviously there, why wait? Drink 2018-2040- 96


2013 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2013 Robert Mondavi Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning example of the varietal. Somewhat tightly wound aromatically right now, there is a very dark and dense core of fruits on the nose followed by woody accents and milk chocolate coming through. The palate shows wonderful weight and intensity with medium tannins lining the mouth. There are rich dark fruit flavors that mingle with sage and dark chocolate shavings. While this can be enjoyed following a long decant, this really needs another year or two of bottle age before enjoying. Drink 2019-2040- 95


2014 Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2014 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Robert Mondavi Winery is a stunning wine that has a ton of cellaring potential. The wine shows incredible range of aromatics on the nose from ripe plum to spice cake to blackberry cobbler and mocha. The palate dazzles with the incredible combustion of weight, minerality and texture as the wine reveals a silky mouthfeel. The feeling of balance is amazing here as this glides through the mid-palate. Mildly tannic, this is surprisingly approachable right now. Enjoy this stunning wine one the next two plus decades. Drink 2018-2040- 97

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Joshua West crafts some exciting new wines for Elephant Seven.

Joshua West crafts some exciting new wines for Elephant Seven.

Elephant Seven

November 14, 2018

One of the rising stars in Washington wine, Elephant Seven relies on the winemaking talents of Joshua West. Joshua has a background in investment banking and has only has been winemaking on a full time basis for several years. He has previously worked for Whitehaven in New Zealand as well as interning at Figgins, Cadaretta, and Dusted Valley in Walla Walla. Finally Joshua and his wife got the nerve to start his own winery and this year he opened up his tasting room in downtown Walla Walla.

The new releases from Elephant Seven were really good across the board. I really enjoyed his 2016 Elephant Seven ‘Yellow Bird VIneyard’ Grenache (WWB, 91) which has a wonderful purity of fruit and shows copious red fruits and a lovely mouthfeel. Even better was the 2016 Elephant Seven ‘Yellow Bird Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which is deep and has wonderful citrus tones from the Viognier which was co-fermented. Learn more about this exciting new Washington winery at https://www.elephantsevenwine.com/ Here are the new releases by Elephant Seven. 


2017 Elephant Seven ‘Blue Mountain Vineyard’ Viognier- This pale colored Viognier wine starts off with a bouquet of lychee, green apple and kumquat. Made on the refreshing, rather than reductive style, the wine shows off bright unripe pear, green papaya and Gravenstein apple flavors with good acidity. What this doesn’t posses in weight it has in good acidity. Drink 2018-2022- 89


2016 Elephant Seven ‘Yellow Bird Vineyard’ Grenache- This deep colored wine is a compelling blend of 80% Grenache with the remainder Syrah. Needing about an hour in the decanter to settle, this starts off with bright red cherry, wild blackberry and thyme aromatics. The palate is both rich and balanced. Red cherry preserves, marionberry cordial, and roasted date flavors impress. Polished, with a good mouthfeel, this delicious wine will drink well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 91

Elephant Seven 2016 Yellow Bird Vineyard Syrah.jpg


2016 Elephant Seven ‘Yellow Bird Vineyard’ Syrah- There is a lot to like with the 2016 ‘Yellow Bird Vineyard’ Syrah by Elephant Seven. The wine was co-fermented with 8% Viognier prior to bottling. Smoked brisket, anise and blueberry compote aromas fill the glass. There is a lifted, lighter citrus tone from the Viognier. The palate is exceedingly plush, as the wine shows beautiful layers of dark fruits with citrus rind and pomegranate seed flavors. Downright delicious now, this will cellar well for eight plus years. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 Elephant Seven ‘Block 3 Yellow Bird Vineyard’ Syrah- The wine stains the glass and shows beautifully smoky tones on the nose with blue and dark fruits also prominent. The mouthfeel is dense and downright decadent. Black tea, anise, blueberry compote and mocha flavors all shine. Exceedingly good, this is a seriously good wine made by Josh West. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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Marty Clubb, L’Ecole No. 41 owner and managing winemaker, has been pivotal in helping his winery gain national attention for their fantastic lineup of red and white wines.

Marty Clubb, L’Ecole No. 41 owner and managing winemaker, has been pivotal in helping his winery gain national attention for their fantastic lineup of red and white wines.

L’Ecole No. 41

November 13, 2018

One of the great stops as you are driving into the Walla Walla area, L’Ecole No. 41 is known for their iconic schoolhouse tasting room that has received national attention. One of Washington’s most consistent overall lineup of wines over the past decade, L’Ecole has produced another wonderful set of releases, ranging from crisp Chardonnay to rich Merlot. The winery is set in a 1915 schoolhouse and is the perfect location to taste some of the valley’s most consistent lineup of red and white wines. Marty Clubb serves as managing winemaker and oversees all vineyard management. Production winemaker Mike Sharon has been with L’Ecole since 1996 having previously served at Canoe Ridge. L’Ecole makes a ton of different wines as both Marty and Mike oversee over 90 lots of wine each year. I was hugely impressed with the new 2017 L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon (WWB, 92) which has remarkable poise and richness that falls under $20.00. It is hard to find value like this in wine. L’Ecole has built a very strong reputation for their Chardonnay over the years. I loved their 2017 L’Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay (WWB, 91) which is a Chardonnay’s lovers dream with good richness and wonderful minerality. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://lecole.com/ Here are the great new wines by L’Ecole No. 41.

L'Ecole No. 41 2018 lineup.jpg

2017 L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon- This has pear aromas with marzipan and toasted brioche on the nose. The palate is wonderful with mouthwatering acidity and a wonderful richness. Brioche, Japanese pear and Macadamia nut flavors all mingle nicely together in the glass. This is a simply outstanding value. Drink 2018-2024- 92


2017 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Semillon- Sourced from the esteemed Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Columbia Valley, this shows off cardamom, lemongrass and green apple tones on the nose. The palate has a wonderful texture and tension showing off nice citrus and tree fruit flavors. This is a simply outstanding effort that is up there with the best in the state. Drink 2018-2024- 92


2017 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Luminescence’ White Wine- The ‘Luminescence’ is a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc sourced from the Seven Hills Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. The nose takes on chalk bread, lemon zest and white peach with kumquat undertones. The palate shows a wonderful texture and bright minerality with vanilla cream, lemon zest, Pink Lady apple and toasty brioche. An outstanding wine, this is up there with the best of its kind in Washington and will age well for five plus years. Drink 2018-2024- 92


2017 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay by L’Ecole is an amazing value from this famed winery. Displaying a beautiful golden hue this begins with Asian pear, cinnamon and challah bread aromas that build in the glass. Thew palate has good weight and reveals a silky texture with baked apple, vanilla cream and citrus rind undertones. This is an outstanding effort that will cellar well for the next eight plus years. Drink 2018-2026- 91


2017 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Evergreen Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Slightly lighter in color than the ‘Columbia Valley’ bottling, this cooler site Chardonnay begins with aromas of nectarine, lemon zest and vanilla cream. The palate is lithe and takes on wonderful brightness. Heavy whipping cream and lemon zest connect with the lithe minerality. Light on its feet and highly refreshing, this is another really good effort by L’Ecole No. 41. Drink 2018-2026- 92


2016 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley GSM’ Red Wine- The ‘GSM’ by L’Ecole No. 41 is a compelling blend of 42% Grenache, 42% Syrah and 16% Mourvedre. This has some really good smoky undertones with red fruits, citrus rind and wild blackberry jam. The palate reveals some serious range, from citrus rind to red fruits to smoky tones. The mouthfeel and tension in the wine is seriously good. This is  simply a spectacular wine by L’Ecole No. 41. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2015 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- This wine shows an inky color and starts off with a bouquet of smoked brisket, black tea, anise and white pepper that build in the glass. I’m astonished how the non-fruit aromas are shining brilliantly. The palate is plush, showing light tannins and black fruit flavors with smoke and a touch of chocolate. Downright delicious, this effort will cellar well for decades. Drink 2018-2030- 92


2015 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows anise, black olive and creme de cassis on the nose. The palate shows good freshness and mid-palate weight with black tea, anise, mocha and blackberry pie flavors with a touch of black olive tapenade. The salinity here is outstanding. Drink 2018-2030- 91

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Great photo here of eminent vigneron, Christophe Baron, in his stony vineyard with his draft horse.

Great photo here of eminent vigneron, Christophe Baron, in his stony vineyard with his draft horse.

Horsepower Vineyards

November 13, 2018

One of the great project wineries in Washington, started by eminent vigneron, Christophe Baron, Horsepower Vineyards produces three special wines — two Syrahs and one Grenache. As an animal lover, Christophe remembers his years growing up in the Champagne region of France and recalls the use of draft horses that influenced Europe for the better. In his Walla Walla AVA vineyards his horses help cultivate vineyards ranging from 3,555 to 4,840 vines per acre with as little as 3' x 3' spacing—planted 1 vine per stake, or “sur echalas” in French. One of the most exciting vineyards in Washington State, the Sur Echalas Vineyard creates wines that are so profound they’re nearly impossible to describe. The struggle of the vines in these close quarters creates a remarkable tension and intensity. These stunning wines are made by Christophe and his highly talented assistant vigneronne, Elizabeth Bourcier. 

I had the chance to try their first vintage, this past year, the 2011 ‘The Tribe VIneyard’ Syrah and I was amazed by the richness and complexity of the wine. Quite simply, the wine is aging marvelously. Like all Horsepower releases since that time, Christophe and Elizabeth have hit a home run with their new wines, which come from a somewhat challenging vintage that saw some severe heat spikes, particularly in the area where they grow their gapes. I was simply amazed by the 2015 Horsepower ‘Sur Echelas Vineyard’ Grenache (WWB, 97) which is one of the world’s great expression of Grenache. Nearly as good was the 2015 Horsepower ‘Sur Echelas Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 96) which has incredible tension and richness, with an insanely good aromatic range. Needless to say, Christophe and Elizabeth continue to be on top of their game, producing some of the best wines in North America. Learn more about these very special wines at https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/

Here are the gorgeous new wines by Horsepower Vineyards.

2015 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2015 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache is a highly memorable effort that is one of the best of its kind in the state. White truffle and peat moss aromatics you immediately on the nose with earthy undertones that impress. Red fruits and citrus qualities come into the nose as well, as this shows some serious aromatic range in the glass. The palate shows striking intensity, verve and tension. The range of flavors is insanely good, as the wine unveils seductive flavors of white truffle crudo, red currant jelly, cran-orange, peat moss, wet stone and white pepper. The range of flavors makes this absolutely impossible to put down right now. This is a complete wine. Drink 2018-2028- 97


2015 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah-  The ‘Sur Echalas Syrah’ by Horsepower is one of the wines of the vintage. The nose on this Syrah is hugely intense with Asian spice, peat moss, black truffle oil, white pepper, green olive, and charcuterie. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more hedonism. The palate is silky smooth and reveals an incredible texture. The sterling minerality also grips you. Wet stone, black tea, Umami, smoked brisket and Asian spice flavors all show a wonderful combination in the glass. Enjoy this great wine over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2018-2028- 96

Horsepower Vineyards The Tribe Syrah.jpg


2015 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2015 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe’ Syrah is a head-turning wine that is drinking marvelously right now. This Syrah shows an incredible range of aromatics from horse manure to peat moss to black fruits. The complex aromas that build in the glass bring you back for more delight. This shows marvelous freshness, showing a wonderful minerality on the palate. Tar, blackberry compote, ripe blueberry, Umami and Kalmatta olive tapenade with a touch of white pepper flavors fill the palate. This is a stunning effort that will cellar marvelously over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 95



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Great photo here of Katie Nelson, the new Columbia Crest winemaker.

Great photo here of Katie Nelson, the new Columbia Crest winemaker.

Interview with Katie Nelson, Winemaker at Columbia Crest

November 12, 2018

One of the great people in Washington wine, Katie Nelson is the new winemaker at Columbia Crest. She takes over for Juan Munoz-Oca and is very excited at this new challenge. Katie previously worked for K Vintners and was helping make a host of great wines there. She has a background in chemistry and is married to another great winemaker, Flint Nelson. I think you will enjoy hearing her story in wine. Here is my interview with Katie Nelson, winemaker at Columbia Crest.


WWB: Can you talk about your first inspirations in wine?

 KN: At a very young age, I witnessed how wine brought people together, with plenty of laughter, around my Italian grandparent’s kitchen table on Sundays.

 During college in Sonoma, as a Chemistry major, I toured a winery and saw people doing science in a winery. I knew I had found my calling. I loved the idea of combining art, science and farming and creating something that would bring people together. 

 I had a job working at Ridge Vineyards on my 21st birthday and loved every minute of it. I was so lucky to be a 21-year-old who drank 1992 Monte Bello on weekends. I loved the rustic nature of Ridge wines and how many were field blends, which I still love today. They weren’t over crafted or over blended. The Monte Bello had wonderful herbal notes, which I was glad they embraced.

 Traveling the world, I became passionate about Sauvignon Blanc. France, New Zealand, South Africa, I love them all. I really enjoy red wines with acidity that pair with food.  I am inspired by wines that reflect the place.

 WWB: How did you decide to come to Charles Smith and work with a host of varietals in Walla Walla?

 KN: Brennon Leighton and I worked together at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates for many years. Working with Charles and Brennon at Wines of Substance, Charles Smith Wines, and K Vintners was a challenge I was ready for. I had focused on winemaking up until that point, and was given the opportunity to be a viticulturist as well, which was exciting.  They foster a creative, innovative and entrepreneurial culture which is contagious. At K Vintners I learned to work autonomously, push limits, and really examine who I was as a winemaker.

 It was a tremendous challenge getting to work with so many growers for the core brands, and at the same time, what an opportunity to work with so many world class vineyards for K. 

 WWB: What are some advantages of coming back to Chateau Ste. Michelle Estates? What are some challenges with taking over for superstar winemaker Juan Munoz-Oca?

 KN: Ste. Michelle Wine Estates is a world leader in experimentation, research and innovation. I love the people, and am thrilled about getting to work with so many growers to bring friendly, accessible wines to so many people worldwide.  I can’t think of another place I would want to be at this time in my life, helping to build the momentum for Washington wines and their place on the world stage.  Columbia Crest is one of the top brands in Washington’s winemaking history, and I’m looking forward to leading the historic brand into the future.

 Juan Munoz-Oca is an extremely talented winemaker and I realize there are big shoes to fill. We have been tasting wines together at work, and socially, for 15 years. I respect his palate immensely and we are very in tune with each other. Juan isn’t going anywhere. I think you’ll see a continuation of what’s been happening there over the last ten years, as a historic winery that is taking some more risks with their winemaking. 

 I obviously also need to buy some way cooler clothes. Oh, and my name isn’t Juan and what are we going to do about those awesome “Juan & Juan on Wine” videos? I’m sure we will figure something out.

 WWB: Columbia Crest is known for producing some of the most consistent wine values not only in Washington but in the United States. I’ve been enchanted by this amazing value lineup since I first started writing about wine in 2002. How do you see this great wine program evolving for the future?

 KN: Columbia Crest is home to many of the greatest values in the wine world, which I am excited about. Over the last few decades I have witnessed the winery evolving, while respecting what made it so successful.

 My goal is to marry innovation with the historic component, as the consumer moves across the tiers, and vineyard sourcing.  Grand Estates is such a consistent value, and the consumer knows what to expect and trusts the quality. The evolution of winemaking through the tiers will align with the vineyard selection.  H3 and Single Vineyard Reserve and Club Wines can showcase the site, vintage and innovation aspect a little more. I think the consumer’s palate is always changing and evolving and people are looking to be surprised. I know I am. I want to surprise people and leave them speechless, in a good way.

 WWB: Talk about what it is like being married to another talented winemaker, Flint Nelson?

 KN: Busy! Really busy! Every harvest, this time of year, we look at each other, and now our kids, and say how are we going to do this again? We seem to make it work. We found each other in Sunnyside, Washington, in a winery lab and the wine talk never stops. We have had a ton of fun traveling the world and love to cook, drink wine and entertain. When we vacation, the kids know for every day at a beach, they get a day at a winery (ok, not always)!  Flint is a tremendous winemaker and it is really intuitive to him, even when he was first starting out. That doesn’t happen with young winemakers very often. Flint and I have different palates though, and sometimes I need to remember he may not want my opinion and vice versa. We both say we know we found a wine we love, when it leaves us speechless. We are hardly ever speechless when it comes to wine. I think maybe three times ever. Really.

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Great shot here of Joe Ibrahim, head winemaker at Willamette Valley Vineyards.

Great shot here of Joe Ibrahim, head winemaker at Willamette Valley Vineyards.

Willamette Valley Vineyards

November 12, 2018

One of the longest serving estates in Oregon, Willamette Valley Vineyards was founded in 1983 by Oregon wine pioneer, Jim Bernau. Jim cleared away an old pioneer plum orchard in the Salem Hills to start his first vineyard. Over time Willamette Valley Vineyards has considerably increased their estate vineyards through partnerships like the merger with Oregon wine industry pioneer, Bill Fuller of Tualatin Vineyards (established in 1973), the O'Briens for Elton Vineyard (established in 1983) and Loeza Vineyard (planted in 2015). Willamette Valley Vineyards sources all of its Pinot Noir from their nearly 500 acres of estate vineyards.

Head winemaker Joe Ibrahim is originally from New York and started his wine journey in Vermont. He has held several high end wine positions prior to coming to Willamette Valley Vineyards, including working for Ste. Michelle Wine Estate in Washington State, as well as Gallo Family in California where he learned about brandy distillation as a Spirits Maker and sparkling wine production as the Senior Winemaker in charge of the sparkling wine program. He served as winemaker for Edna Valley prior to coming to Willamette Valley Vineyards and has crafted some really good new releases. One of the great value sparkling wines on the market, the 2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 91) has loads of tension and astringency, with lovely citrus tones.  I really enjoyed the 2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which has really good freshness and black fruits in the glass. This wine is a killer value at $32.00. Learn more about this great Oregon winery at 


2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine- Bunches of citrus hits you in waves here, with lemon zest and kumquat shining under shades of brioche. The astringency is lovely, as is the silky mousse. Enjoy this excellent Sparkling Wine over the next five to ten years. Drink 2018-2024- 91


2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- Brightly colored, this starts off with aromas of brioche, creme brûlée and lemon cream. The palate is both rich and lithe, showing off honeysuckle, creme brûlée and lemon zest flavors. With good weight and tension, this gorgeous wine will cellar marvelously over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Vintage 43’ Chardonnay- The ‘Vintage 43’ Chardonnay was aged for ten months in oak (30% new) prior to bottling. The wine begins with bright aromas of brioche, vanilla cream and ripe pear. On the palate there is some good minerality with bright citrus and hazelnut flavors that connect with the creamy finish. Drink 2018-2026- 91

Willamette Valley Vineyards 'Estate' Pinot Noir.png


2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir begins with a bright bouquet of rose petals, forest floor and red currant. The silky mouthfeel impresses, as the wine unveils red fruit flavors with earthy tones. Enjoy this outstanding release over the next ten years. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- Dark fruits mark the nose with light peat moss and blood orange tones. The palate has a soft mouthfeel, showing good freshness and a nice salinity.Black tea, blackberry pie, crushed mint and tobacco leaf flavors all combine beautifully in the glass. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Tualatin Estate’ Pinot Noir- This translucent Pinot Noir begins with aromatics of red cherry, pomegranate seed and blood orange rind. Round and generous, this wine shows off red cherry, red currant and orange rind flavors that connect with the lively minerality. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Bernau Block’ Pinot Noir- Wonderfully earthy on the nose, the wine shows off forest floor, black tea and blackberry pie aromas. Similar to the other wines in the WVV lineup, the mouthfeel is really wonderful. Black and red fruits mingle with lovely minerals. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Vintage 43’ Pinot Noir- This earthy Pinot Noir shows red fruits with peat moss and forest floor tones. The palate has a good mouthfeel and viscosity with pomegranate seed, red cherry candy and guava connecting with the damp earth. This is downright delicious right now. Drink 2018-2026- 91


2017 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Whole Cluster’ Pinot Noir is sourced from Dijon clones 114, 115, 667, 777, Pommard and Wadenswil. The nose shows red fruits like wild strawberry and red cherry connecting with light damp earthy undertones. The palate shows good freshness, with light strawberry, red cherry candy and pomegranate seed flavors. The acidity is racy and bright. Drink 2018-2026- 91

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Here I am pictured with Big Table Farm winemaker, Brian Marcy. Brian crafts some of the best Rose in North America.

Here I am pictured with Big Table Farm winemaker, Brian Marcy. Brian crafts some of the best Rose in North America.

Big Table Farm

November 8, 2018

Two of the great people in Oregon Wine, Big Table Farm is the brainchild of Clare Carver and Brian Marcy. I’ll admit that I cannot stop talking about this winery and their lineup of wines. In a very short period of time Big Table Farm has become one of the top wineries in Oregon. For those of you who have not tried the wines, I urge you that this is a not to be missed lineup of wines — from bright, mineral driven Rose to rich and layered Chardonnay to earthy and downright seductive Pinot Noir. Superstar winemaker Brian Marcy turns literally anything he gets in his hands on into a beautiful wine. He has a longstanding history in the wine industry, living in Napa and previously serving as winemaker for Neyers prior to moving north and settling in the Willamette Valley. His wines are rich, terroir driven and show dazzling minerality. It is very hard to find this degree of tension and viscosity in a glass of Oregon Pinot Noir. 

It is also worth noting that his 2017 Big Table Farm ‘The Laughing Pig’ Rose (WWB, 93) was tied for the top Rose of my 2018 Rose Report. His new releases were stunning across the board. I absolutely loved the new 2016 Big Table Farm ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which showed incredible range and viscosity. This wine delivers some serious value for the price. The standout wine once again, was the 2016 Big Table Farm ‘Sunnyside Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is another serious value from this winery. The wine has an insanely good texture and mouthfeel that combines with incredible range. It is a seductive Oregon Pinot Noir. Learn more about Big Table Farm at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.


2017 Big Table Farm Pinot Gris- This orange wine shows wonderful range on the nose with apricot jelly, lychee, and Pink Grapefruit blossom. The palate is voluptuous and shows some marvelous weight. The texture to this wine is silky and seductive, inviting you for more. White peach, starfruit, mango and Pink Grapefruit flavors all nicely mingle together. A complete wine, this is another stunning effort by Big Table Farm. Drink 2018-2024- 93


2016 Big Table Farm ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 Big Table Farm ‘Yamhill-Carlton’ Pinot Noir has evolved beautifully since I first tried the wine in September 2017. The nose takes on bright strawberry with guava, blood orange rind and forest floor aromatics that entice. Bright, showing a wonderful mouthfeel and intensity, the wine shows strawberry jam, guava, red currant and peat moss flavors. This entry level bottling is better than most winery’s top ‘reserve’ wines. Once in the glass it is nearly impossible to put down. Simply put, it is a fabulous value that is drinking marvelously now but will age for another decade or more. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2016 Big Table Farm ‘Wirtz Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Set on roughly 13 acres the Wirtz Vineyard is located in Gaston, and has old, 40 year old Pinot Noir vines. Not needing a decant, the earthy, seductive aromas grip you immediately. The silky mouthfeel makes this glide through the mid-palate, creating a stunning experience as you sip this marvelously textured Pinot Noir. Red and dark fruits connect with earthy and citrus tones. This amazing Pinot Noir by superstar winemaker Brian Marcy has it all. While it is drinking marvelously right now, it will cellar for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2033- 94


2016 Big Table Farm ‘Cattrall Brothers Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Big Table Farm has sourced from Tom and Bill Cattrall’s vineyard for more than five years. The cool climate vineyard sits high in the Eola Amity Hills. This begins with bright aromas of citrus blossom, red cherry candy, guava and lighter earthy tones on the nose. The palate is silky smooth, showing a nice salinity. Red fruits dominate the palate with light citrus and peat moss flavors mingle in the glass.This is delicate Pinot Noir that shows a wonderful terroir. Drink 2018-2028- 93

Big Table Farm 2016 Sunnyside Vineyard .jpg


2016 Big Table Farm ‘Sunnyside Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Sunnyside Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is another marvelous effort by Big Table Farm. They have made this wine starting with the 2011vintage. The Pinot Noir shows beautiful aromatic range on the nose from blood orange, to peat moss to guava and beautiful bing cherry. The mouthfeel is seductive as the wine shows a similarly striking range on the palate. Black fruits, red fruits, citrus rind and earthy tones all marvelously weave together in the glass, and combine with stunning tension and minerality. A long ager, this is another complete wine made by the talented team at Big Table Farm. Drink 2018-2033- 95

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Katy Wilson has crafted some outstanding new release wines for LaRue Wines.

Katy Wilson has crafted some outstanding new release wines for LaRue Wines.

LaRue Wines

November 8, 2018

This great winery was named after Veona LaRue Newell, winemaker Katy Wilson’s great-grandmother,  who lived to be 97 years old. Hilariously, Veona was not pleased with the winery being named after her, stating “Well, I can’t say that you picked the best name in the world…”

Founded in 2009, LaRue Wines focuses on crafting Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Winemaker Katy Wilson attended Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo and grew up on a walnut farm, to when she learned how to drive a tractor before a car. She has worked harvests in both the Northern & Southern Hemisphere and previously worked at Flowers Vineyard & Winery prior to starting her own winery. She also consults for a host of wineries in the Sonoma area. Katy’s new releases come from the warm 2015 vintage in Sonoma. I was amazed by her 2015 LaRue ‘Rice-Spivak Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which showed wonderful range and a great minerality. Learn more about these exciting new wines at https://www.laruewines.com Here are the great new wines by LaRue.

2015 LaRue ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- This translucent colored wine shows off a nice range of aromatics from white pepper, to orange rind to bright red fruits. The palate reveals wonderful acidity and high toned flavors of citrus rind, guava and ripe strawberry with smoky undertones. This is a simply outstanding bottling by La Rue. Drink 2018-2028- 92

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2015 LaRue ‘Rice-Spivak Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The six acre Rice-Spivak Vineyard Pinot Noir is located south of the town of Sebastopol. Vines are set on  Goldridge sandy loam along with volcanic ash.This starts off with bright aromas of rose petal with blood orange rind, smoke, red cherry preserves and guava puree. The aromatic range is simply gorgeous here. On the palate, the wine reveals a silky mouthfeel and wonderful minerality. With gobs of mouth-watering acidity, red and dark fruits mingle with spicy undertones. Highly complex and downright delicious, this will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2018-2030- 93

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Stephanie Jacobs crafts some really good wines for Cakebread Cellars.

Stephanie Jacobs crafts some really good wines for Cakebread Cellars.

Cakebread Cellars

November 7, 2018

One of Napa’s great historic wineries, Cakebread Cellars has celebrated over 40 years in wine. The winery was first founded by Jack and Dolores Cakebread. Continued to be run by the Cakebread family, Dennis Cakebread helped the winery exponentially with his marketing ability. Dennis began his wine business career while studying accounting at CAL Berkeley and has had some great success with helping market Cakebread Cellars internationally and domestically. Dennis has helped them build an exceedingly strong reputation for their Chardonnay in particular. I can’t imagine how many wine lists serve the Cakebread Chardonnay but it is not only Dennis’s vision but the quality in the glass that has made that happen. Stephanie Jacobs serves as Cakebread winemaker. She has previously worked at Bogle Vineyards and was promoted to the winemaker position in 2017 after having spent time as their assistant winemaker. She has crafted some very good new wines.

I recently had the chance to try the new Cakebread wines and I found them to be fantastic across the board. Crisp and refreshing, showing good viscosity, I was impressed by the 2016 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91), which is drinking marvelously right now. I had the opportunity to visit an older release Chardonnay, the 2010 Cakebread Chardonnay (WWB, 91) which shows that great Chardonnay can age well. This wine had lovely tertiary components to the creamy body and had a lovely texture. Learn more about this storied winery at https://www.cakebread.com Here are the great new wines by Cakebread Cellars.


2016 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc- The 2016 Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc is a really good effort in this warm vintage. The nose starts off with wonderful gooseberry and candied grapefruit aromas that build in the glass. The rich texture here shines, with cantaloupe, pear and Gravensteins apple flavors following. Showing good tension, this is an outstanding effort that needs a hot summer day. Drink 2018-2022- 91

Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay.png


2016 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay- The 2016 Cakebread Chardonnay is an excellent warm vintage effort. Right out of the gate this shows toasty oak alongside tree and citrus fruit aromatics that build in the glass. The palate shows a good degree of minerality with baked apple, creme brûlée and lemon zest flavors. Better served a touch warm, this delicious effort will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2024- 91


2010 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay- The 2010 Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay shows the impressive aging potential of these wines. On the nose there is lovely musty and tertiary aromatics that pick up including wild mushroom, peat moss alongside vanilla cream. The palate shows good tension and is better warmed up. Sourdought bread, Meyer lemon cream and poached pear flavors all come together nicely with cinnamon and damp earth undertones. This shows that great Napa Chardonnay can age. Drink 2018-2022- 91


2014 Cakebread Cellars ‘Two Creeks Vineyards’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Anderson Valley AVA, this Pinot Noir starts off with bright aromas of forest floor, black tea and blackberry pie. The palate is plush, showing good ripeness with blackberry pie, peat moss and stewed strawberry flavors. The earthy and citrus undertones entice here. Drink 2018-2028- 90


2013 Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon- This beautiful wine is already quite evolved. Inky in color, this Cabernet Sauvignon by Cakebread begins with aromas of anise, mocha and red bell pepper with wild blackberry. The palate shows good balance and weight with black tea, anise, mocha and sandalwood flavors. This shows good intensity and elegance. Drink 2018-2028- 91

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Jesus Guillen was an incredible winemaker and an even more wonderful man.

Jesus Guillen was an incredible winemaker and an even more wonderful man.

Jesus Guillen, Winemaker of White Rose Estate

November 7, 2018

Jesus Guillen passed away yesterday far too early at the age of 37. A brilliant and humble man, he will be greatly missed by the Oregon wine community. I had the great opportunity to interview Jesus years ago. I was very nervous for this interview  as it was one of the first I had done for WWB. Jesus was just as nervous as I. Soft spoken and down to earth, I cherished this conversation with him. Visiting White Rose on many occasions, I remember Jesus best for his smile that would light up a room.

Jesus is an amazing story in wine. He began working with White Rose owner Greg Sanders in the vineyard in 2002. At an extremely young age Jesus began managing the day-to-day winemaking procedures in his absence. Greg realized that Jesus had a brilliant palate and an intense desire to learn winemaking. Jesus enrolled in winemaking classes, read every book he could find on enology and viticulture and routinely picked the brains of the best winemakers in the valley. Jesus soon became Assistant Winemaker and Cellar Master and was later appointed Head Winemaker in 2008. HIs wines were incredible, showing wonderful earthy terroir and dark fruits from the Dundee Hills. I’ll be raising a glass to him tonight. Please consider donating to the Guillen family helping his wife Julie and their 10 year old son. Donate here: https://www.gofundme.com/jesus-guillen or purchase a case of his delicious wine here: https://guillenfamily.com/

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Benjamin Romeo is the genius behind Bodega Contador.

Benjamin Romeo is the genius behind Bodega Contador.

Bodega Contador

November 6, 2018

One of the famed houses of Spain, Bodega Contador is founded by the creative genius, Benjamin Romeo. Romeo worked as winemaker at Artadi between 1985 and 2000, before starting his Contador project. Situated in and around San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Benjamin has 7 hectares, half devoted to La Vina de Andres, and the other half divided between 20 plots averaging 130 square feet with vines up to 100 years old. The wins are truly some of the best out of Rioja. It is hard to describe his winemaking style, which is modern and pushes the limits of the region. 

Romeo has crafted some scintillating wines from exciting new vintages in Rioja which show new world richness as well as wonderful old world refinement and elegance.  Across the board, Romeo hits a home run with his new release wines. A tremendous value Rioja Blanco, the 2014 Bodega Contador ‘La Cueva del Contador’ Rioja (WWB, 96) is one of the best wines I have ever sampled from Rioja. The wine has incredible poise, tension and weight. It is a truly spectacular bottling that is not to be missed. more. Learn more about these very special wines at http://bodegacontador.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Bodega Contador. 


2015 Bodega Contador 'Qué Bonito Cacareaba’ White Wine- The ‘Que Bonito Cacareaba’ by Bodega Contador is a stunning effort. Named after the rooster cry, the wine is a compelling blend of 50% Garnacha Blanca, 35% Malvasía, 15% Viura all sourced from head-trained vines gown in a mix of alluvial and calcareous soil from the districts of San Vicente de la Sonsierra and Briones with Rioja Alta. Showing off a golden hue, this exudes a wide range of aromatics, from unripe nectarine to lychee to tangerine zest. The texture to this wine is polished and the mouthfeel is downright unctuous. Bright pear, pink grapefruit zest, starfruit and lychee flavors all beautifully connect. This is bright yet highly rich and satisfying. It is simply a stunning effort by Benjamin Romeo. Drink 2018-2030- 94

Bodega Contador La Cueva Del Contador.jpg


2014 Bodega Contador ‘La Cueva del Contador’ Rioja- The 2014 ‘La Cueva del Contador is one of the best Rioja wines that I have sampled over the past five years. Right away you are drawn to the inky color. The nose is highly perfumed with amazing range. Black tea, Asian spice, blackberry cobbler and milk chocolate aromas all marvelously come together in the glass. The palate is sexductive and deep offering a generous, silky mouthfeel. Wild blackberry jam, mocha, anise, cran-orange and hints of dried sage all impress. This is a complete wine made by the talented Benjamin Romeo. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this at least a two plus hour decant. This has an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2040- 96

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Here we have the Mestres cellarmaster inspecting each individual bottle following disgorgement at Mestres.

Here we have the Mestres cellarmaster inspecting each individual bottle following disgorgement at Mestres.

Cava Mestres

November 6, 2018

I invite all of you to take a second look at Cava. What is typically considered to be a simple, one-dimensional sparkling wine, Cava at its best can be thrilling wine with seriously good range and terroir. One of the oldest houses in Cava, The Mestres family dates back to 1312 as a wine negotiant and they have owned vineyards in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia since at least 1607. Many years later in 1925  Josep Mestres Manobens made his first sparkling wine by blending indigenous varietals Macabeu, Xarel-lo, and Parellada. Joan Aura serves as cellar master winemaker. They source from their 74 acre estate, which is divided into two plots: Clos Damiana and Clos Nostre Senyor as well as some area vineyards. Their vineyard is set on calcareous clay soils.

A few weeks back I had the opportunity to visit this storied estate. The winery is set in a quaint town, Sadurni d’Antonia, roughly an hour from Barcelona. The region is quite mountainous and it has a very different climate to Barcelona having a considerably lower maritime influence. Mestres give their sparkling wines extended time (18 months to 7 years) on the lees in bottle, which contributes to the complexity of the wines. During our cellar tour we had a chance to see some of their wines that have date back fifty years. Like many of Spain’s most celebrated houses, Mestres prides themselves at aging their wines and releasing them when they find them ready. We were able to see the disgorgement process as well as some bottling while we were there and I was amazed at the attention to detail as the cellar master inspects each individual bottle, regardless of price. They are truly a storied house in sparkling wine. 

Their new release wines were seriously good across the board. I was particularly impressed with what they have done with their entry level Cava, the NV Mestres ‘1312’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 92) which shows serious range and wonderful texture. This is a sinfully good value out of Cava and would make an incredible glass pour for any restaurant specializing in shellfish.  The best wine that I tried was the 2004 Mestres ‘Clos Damiana Gran Reserva’ Cava (WWB, 94) which is up there with the best Cava wines that I have ever tried. Musty, earthy and showing insanely good range, this beautiful Cava will cellar well for decades and currently shows insane range. Learn more about this storied winery at http://www.mestres.es/?lang=en Here are the great new wines by Mestres.

Mestres Old Bottles.jpg


NV Mestres ‘1312’ Cava- The NV '1312 Reserva' Cava from Mestres is a fantastic effort. Disgorged in April 2018, the wine is a great blend of Parellada (40%), Macabeo and Xarel-Lo (both 30%). This shows an inviting bouquet with aromas of biscuit, grapefruit blossom and kumquat with a touch of green apple and smoke adding further complexity. The palate shows a beautiful salinity, backed by flavors of gravenstine apple, brioche, and kumquat which all mingle in the glass. Showing nice aging potential, this outstanding Cava will continue to develop over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2013 Mestres ‘Couquet Gran Reserva’ Cava- The 2013 Mestres 'Coquet' Gran Reserva is an outstanding effort. This blend of 40% Xarel-Lo, with equal parts Macabeo and Parellada which was disgorged in early 2018. Once in the glass the wine shows a rich light orange tone followed by a bright bouquet of white peach, green apple, brioche and orange zest. I love the intensity of the wine and the silky mouthfeel. Kumquat flavor is quite prominent, with Japanese apple, marzipan and challah bread elements all providing appeal. A complete wine, this has some marvelous aging potential and shows really good salinity and brightness at this juncture. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2011 Mestres ‘Visol Gran Reserva Brut Nature’ Cava- This impressive Cava wine was aged for six months in barrels prior to bottling and was disgorged in February 2018. Green apple, green papaya and nutmeg mark the nose. The palate shows good freshness and verve with kumquat, green papaya and Granny Smith apple flavors. This shows a wonderful mouthfeel and texture with a great saliniity. Bright and intense, this great wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 92


2008 Mestres ‘Clos Nostre Senyor Grand Reserva’ Cava- Sourced from vineyards older than 45 years of age, this was aged for ten months in barrel and then was disgorged in July 2018. The wine starts off with rich aromas of biscuit, Japanese pear and lemon zest. The palate shows a wonderful tension and mouthfeel. Cantaloupe, Challah bread, and bright pear flavors all develop in the glass.  The earthy tones with the fruit are highly compelling. This is showing marvelously, finishing with a strong salinity. Drink 2018-2028- 93


2004 Mestres ‘Clos Damiana Gran Reserva’ Cava- Blended with a considerably higher percentage of Xarel-Lo (65%) this wine was sourced from more than 65 year old vines. This was aged for one year in barrels and then was disgorged in December 2017. There is a wonderful mustiness on the nose with strong wild mushroom, biscuit and lemon rind aromatics. The palate is exceedingly rich and viscous showing a beautiful texture and taking on an oily texture. Green apple, honeydew melon, kiwi and lemon zest flavors all beautifully combine. This has considerable verve considering the age of this vintage Cava. While remarkably good right now, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2018-2028- 94


2002 Mestres ‘Mas Via Gran Reserva’ Cava- This ‘Gran Reserva’ Cava saw extended aging for 140 months prior to disgorgement in October 2017. The nose is highly musty and earthy showing peat moss, shiitake mushroom, and Pink Lady apple. The terroir to the wine is quite evident as earthy tones impress both on the nose and the palate. Once in the mouth this wine shows good viscosity and tension with baked apple, peat moss, wild mushroom and marzipan flavors.s The richness and range of this wine shows wonderful refinement. Already nicely evolved, this will cellar well over the next six to eight years. Drink 2018-2025- 94

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We had the opportunity to sample one of the great wines of the world, the 2015 ‘Ygrec’ by Chateau d’Yquem, on our first class flight from Barcelona to Dubai.

We had the opportunity to sample one of the great wines of the world, the 2015 ‘Ygrec’ by Chateau d’Yquem, on our first class flight from Barcelona to Dubai.

Chateau d'Yquem

November 5, 2018

Everyone has their desert island wine. If I was trapped on a desert island, my choice would be clear. Top vintage Chateau d’YQuem. I’ve had a soft spot for Sauternes for decades and started buying Sauternes when I was in graduate school fifteen years ago. While I might not possess a top shelf range of d’YQuem wines like some of my colleagues, I have a few that are best consumed for special occasions. The storied Sauternes estate was the only Sauternes property to be given the the Premier Cru Superior designation from the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. The world wine community recognizes this estate as producing the best wines from Sauternes. The site itself is perfectly situated for achieving a high degree of botrytis in even the most challenging of vintages.

This summer I had the chance to review one with eminent vigneron Christophe Baron and his talented assistant vigneron Elizabeth Bourcier. I chose the 2002 Chateau d’YQuem which was the star from what was generally a difficult vintage in Sauternes and Bordeaux as a region. While 2001 was seen as a dream vintage in Sauternes (and in my mind 2003 as well), 2002 had several problems during the growing season, as rain interrupted the harvest which made some of the wines more lean or elegant. The 2002 Chateau d’YQuem (WWB, 96) is a stunning, blockbuster wine. While it may not equal the best vintages of d’YQuem that I have sampled, it is a beguiling wine that shows exceedingly good range, concentration and elegance. Simply put, it is a complete wine.

Roughly ten years ago Chateau d’YQuem began making a Bordeaux blanc style white wine made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. While traveling on my first class flight to Dubai I had the rare chance to try this highly sought after wine, called ‘Ygrec.’ The 2015 Chateau d’YQuem ‘Ygrec’ White Wine (WWB, 97) is a simply astounding bottling that is up there with the best Bordeaux blancs that I have ever sampled. The intensity, viscosity, mouthfeel and range to this wine is insanely good. This gorgeous white wine is meant for the cellar, as I tried it quite young. Learn more about the storied estate at http://yquem.fr/int-en/ Here are the stunning wines that I have recently sampled from Chateau d’YQuem.

Chateau D'YQuem 2002.jpg


2002 Chateau d’YQuem Sauternes- The 2002 Chateau d’YQuem Sauternes is one of the best wines from this challenging vintage in Sauternes. During this growing season ripening was quite uneven as picking lasted from early September to early November. This stunning Sauternes shows an exotic bouquet ranging from bees wax to candied apricot and ripe pineapple to Meyer lemon creme brulee. The beautiful aromatics bring you back to the glass for more hedonistic delight. The palate is plush, viscous and downright decadent. Bananas Foster, fresh ginger creme brûlée and brandy soaked pear flavors all marvelously combine in the glass. Intense and heady, yet elegant, this memorable Sauternes is drinking marvelously right now but still has an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2018-2035- 96

Chateau D'YQuem 2015 Ygret.jpg


2015 Chateau d’YQuem ‘Ygrec’ White Wine- The 2015 'Y' from Chateau d’YQuem is a head turning, simply brilliant blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The Sauvignon Blanc is harvested rather early in the growing season to retain its freshness, while the Semillon is given more time to mature and allow botrytis to take effect. The wine itself displays a lovely golden hue, and begins with an exotic bouquet consisting of star jasmine, honeydew melon, starfruit and lemongrass aromatics which all take shape. On the palate this possesses remarkable tension and viscosity, which is truly one of a kind as the mouthfeel takes on a sultry, unctuous character as lemon cream, kumquat, cantaloupe and roasted pineapple flavors all come together beautifully. It continues to impress with its gorgeous seamless quality and balance while showcasing the ripeness and intensity of the vintage. While this is already showing trememdous appeal it should go on to age exceedingly well over the course of the next two plus decades. This is a absolute gem from the legendary Château. Drink 2018-2040- 97

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