Ponzi Vineyards

One of the historic Oregon wineries, Ponzi Vineyards has a great story that began back in 1960. During that time Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to the Willamette Valley to focus on making great Pinot Noir. They ended up purchasing 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. While this was quite the risk, they both new that the Willamette Valley's climate would be perfect for Burgundian varieties. Pinot noir cuttings were planted, and in 1970 Ponzi Vineyards was founded.

Today Ponzi Vineyards is led by the Ponzi family's second generation: President and Director of Sales and Marketing, Anna Maria Ponzi and Winemaker Luisa Ponzi. Ponzi now has 130 acres of family-owned vineyards — all of which are LIVE Certified Sustainable, the world's highest standard for sustainable viticulture and enology. The new wines by Ponzi were beautiful across the board. I loved the new 2015 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 90) which is refreshing and shows a good astringency with delicate red fruits. Ponzi has gained a sterling reputation for their Chardonnay wines and their latest release, the 2016 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) is a spectacular effort that has a gorgeous texture and wonderful length. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.ponzivineyards.com Here are the beautiful new wines from Ponzi Vineyards. 

2015 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- Intense raspberry and teaberry aromas with citrus rind accents fill in the nose. The texture is soft as lighter red fruits dance with melon and orange rind and damp earth tones in this pretty sparkling wine. Enjoy this in the short-term. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2018 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Blanc- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the 2018 Pinot Blanc delivers bright lemon zest and cantaloupe tones with suggestions of lychee that all build in the glass. The soft texture is gorgeous as baking spices and Pink Lady apple flavors mingle with the mineral and earthy tones. This is really good for the price. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Ponzi Vineyards Arneis- The 2018 Arneis by Ponzi Vineyards shows lithe citrus and melon flavors that mingle with minerals and shades of peat moss. Complex and generous, with a soft mouthfeel, this is absolutely singing in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next five years. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2016 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- Rich and elegant, the 2016 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay opens with vanilla cream and orchard fruits that mingle with the melon and wet stone tones on this expressive nose. The palate has great weight and freshness with a long and lingering cream and mineral-driven finish. Fantastic now, this will continue to evolve well for a decade. Drink 2020-2029- 92

Va Piano

One of the great wineries on the south side of the Walla Walla Valley, Va Piano, or ‘go slowly’ in Italian, was started by Walla Walla native Justin Wylie. Va Piano has the luxury of sourcing from some of the top vineyards in the state including the DuBrul, Stoney Vine, and Les Collines Vineyards. Justin’s first first commercial crush in the fall of 2003 and soon later Va Piano was born. He has seen the valley grow and his winery production has expanded considerably as well.

Justin is down to earth and a downright awesome guy to chat wine with. His new wines were beautiful across the board, all coming from the 2017 vintage which saw slightly more moderate weather but still goes down as a warm vintage in Washington, particularly compared to the most recent 2019 vintage. His 2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah (WWB, 92) has wonderful depth and smoky tones, with a soft mouthfeel. This is seriously good stuff for the price. The best wine I tried was the scintillating 2017 Va Piano ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 94) which showing amazing range and elegance from this very special vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA.  Learn more about these fantastic wines at http://www.vapianovineyards.com Here are the great new release wines by Va Piano. 

2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- Smoky and savory tones round out this expressive nose. The palate is medium to full-bodied and shows wonderful earthy elegance with a deep core of red and dark fruits. The long finish lingers as this seriously good Syrah will cellar well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Va Piano Cabernet Sauvignon- This shows off beautiful sagebrush and black licorice tones on the nose. The palate has medium tannins with a wonderfully ripe core of blackberry cobbler, mocha and tar flavors. The texture is soft and generous, making this beautiful wine truly sing. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give it an hour in the decanter for the tannins to soften. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Deeply perfumed once in the glass, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off a rich core of dark fruits with suggestions of mocha and damp earth tones that all mingle on the bouquet. The palate has a wonderful sense of elegance and verve, with a silky texture. Fantastic to enjoy in its youth, this great new Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘Uniti’ Red Wine- A Right Bank style of wine made by the talented Justin Wylie, the 2017 ‘Uniti’ shows lovely sagebrush and red bell pepper tones that mingle with the ripe dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is silky smooth, reveling in medium to full-bodied red and dark fruit flavors with black tea and milk chocolate undertones. This is seriously good in its youth and will continue to evolve well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah- One of the great vineyards in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, the Stoney Vine Vineyard sells fruit to some of the state’s most esteemed wineries. Right away you are captivated with the Umami tones that mingle with bulls blood, green olive tapenade and red cherry candy aromatics that all meld together in the glass. The seamless texture of the wine truly entices as bright red fruits and citrus rind tones meld with shades of horse manure, green olives and exotic spices. Absolutely sensational right now, the 2017 ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 94

2017 Va Piano ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 Va Piano ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah is a gorgeous effort by the talented Justin Wylie. The nose shows great aromatic range from shades of white pepper and sagebrush that combine with the bright red and dark fruits. The palate has wonderful freshness and verve, with a soft, generous mouthfeel. With marvelous length, the finish lingers exceedingly long on the tongue. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2017 Va Piano ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Syrah- It is only fitting that Justin Wylie make wine from one of his investments in the Walla Walla Valley, the Eritage Vineyard, which is not so far from downtown Walla Walla amongst miles of wheat fields. The nose shows generous dark fruits that mingle with the lovely spicy and earthy undertones. Soft and generous, a deep core of red and dark fruits greet you on the palate, with very light tannins and a slight veil of salinity. Gorgeous now, the 2017 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Syrah will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘Portteus Vineyard’ Syrah- Dense, and decadent, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Portteus Vineyard’ Syrah is an impressive effort. A deep core of red and dark fruits mingle with sagebrush and chocolate fudge flavors on the palate. Mineral-driven, and showing ample finesse, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Portteus Vineyard’ Syrah will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Va Piano ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Winemaker Justin Wylie is one of the few people who can source from this esteemed vineyard in the Yakima Valley. A rich core of black cherry cordial and black tea mingle together aromatically with sagebrush and thyme undertones. The palate is almost weightless and highly elegant with medium tannins and medium to full-bodied dark fruit flavors that mingle with the lovely chocolate and spicy undertones. Generous and showing great length, the 2017 Va Piano ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Va Piano ‘Scooteney Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This Red Mountain AVA Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon shows intense graphite and Turkish coffee aromatics that meld with the ripe wild blackberry cordial tones on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness and richness with full-bodied blackberry and black cherry flavors with espresso bean and sagebrush accents. Seriously good now, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Scooteney Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for decades. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Va Piano ‘Rosebud Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Located on the Wahluke Slope, the Rosebud Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon opens with tar and mocha tones that mingle with the ripe blackberry compote and damp earth undertones that take shape in the glass. Rich and layered, with light tannins, the blackberry cobbler, mocha, creosote and anise flavors all come together marvelously in the glass. Generous, with great length, the 2017 Va Piano ‘Rosebudl Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 93 

Passing Time

One of the great winery projects in Washington, Passing Time has a beautiful story that was many years in the making. More than a decade ago two NFL Quarterbacks, Hall of Famer Dan Marino and Washington Husky legend, Damon Huard, were both playing for the Miami Dolphins. Damon and Dan talked about someday about owning a winery together and they finally made that dream a reality. 

Through Marino and Huard would sample top wines of the world together, but they were struck with how many great wines were being made in Washington — for a highly reasonable price. They remained friends and eventually started their winery in Woodinville, with the 2012 vintage being their first wines made. Since that time they have achieved great national acclaim for their wines and I have been impressed with these wines since they were first released.

It was a brilliant idea to hire Chris Peterson to serve as their winemaker, as he is one of the great winemakers in Washington State. Chris was the first graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and and spent eight years at DeLille training under eminent winemaker Chris Upchurch. Peterson has crafted some beautiful new wines, none more so than his 2017 Passing Time ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which is a silky wine that has tremendous verve and richness. This is one for the cellar. Even better is their new reserve bottling, the 2017 Passing Time ‘1311 Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which is amongst the best Cabernet Sauvignons from Washington that I have reviewed over the past year. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.passingtime.com Here are my reviews of the gorgeous new wines by Passing Time.

2017 Passing Time ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Passing Time ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous wine that combines fruit sourced from the Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyards. Needing a one hour decant to fully evolve in the glass, the ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon slowly begins to unveil layers of creme de cassis, mocha, tar and shades of anise that all mingle together in unison. The palate has great freshness and verve, with a silky mouthfeel. While obviously deep and rich, the wine conveys a marvelous sense of elegance, as deep dark fruits collide with minerals, sagebrush and milk chocolate tones on the palate. Highly refined, this fantastic bottling by superstar winemaker Chris Peterson will have a very long life ahead of it. Be sure to give this a long, 1-2 hour decant, if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2021-2040- 94

2017 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a thrilling blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot (7%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Right away you are greeted with the fresh sage and milk chocolate tones that connect with the deep core of dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is silky smooth, showing a delightful mouthfeel that entices. Black licorice and spice box flavors mingle with suggestions of Black Forest Cake and black olive tapenade, offering a light beam of salinity across the mid-palate. Rich and generous, with a strong acid backbone, this wine delights in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2017 Passing Time ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous new bottling by Passing Time. Nearly all sourced from the Klipsun and Red Mountain Vineyards, the wine opens with intense exotic spices that meld with shades of black tea, blackberry compote and mocha, with creosote undertones on this beautiful bouquet. Dense, showing light tannins and a soft mouthfeel, the wine unveils layers of dark fruits that collide with tar, damp earth and a wonderful sense of minerality. A complete wine, the ‘Red Mountain’ bottling is showing beautifully now and will continue to evolve for at least two more decades. Be sure to give this at least a one hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2017 Passing Time ‘Block 1311’ Cabernet Sauvignon- I had the great pleasure to host Damon Huard and Passing Time as part of my Third Annual Critic’s Choice of Washington Event. Towards the end of the event, Damon took me aside and had me try one of his wines blind. I was honestly completely floored by what he poured for me, the 2017 ‘Block 1311’ named after Passing Time founders Dan Marino and Damon Huard. The ‘Block 1311’ is a masterpiece by superstar winemaker Chris Peterson that was sourced from the esteemed Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills,. Right out of the gate this wine shows incredible finesse, with a seamless quality that gracefully glides across the mid-palate. Generous, with serious length, the wine shows off a massive core of dark fruits with beautiful Asian spice notes, as well as creosote and Turkish coffee tones. Simply stunning in its youth, the ‘1311’ will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2045- 96

Elizabeth Chambers Cellar

Elizabeth ChamOne of the beautiful stops in McMinnville, Oregon, Elizabeth Chambers Cellar is a fantastic, historic site for tasting wine. Their outdoor space is simply terrific on a warm summer day.  Elizabeth Chambers started her wine career in 1993, shortly after her mother Carolyn, a well-respected business and civic leader in Oregon, acquired Hinman Vineyards (later renamed Silvan Ridge). At the time there were considerably fewer Oregon wineries and Liz worked hard to establish Silvan Ridge as a powerful wine brand.

In 2005, Liz bought a historic winemaking facility in what was formerly a McMinnville power plant. She acquired this great building first erected in 1926 and created her namesake winery. Finally in 2013 Elizabeth Chambers opened and has been producing high quality wines since that time, At the helm is Drew Voit, who has been former assistant winemaker at Domaine Serene for four years before joining Elizabeth Chambers.

His new wines for Elizabeth Chambers are seriously good across the board. I absolutely loved the new 2019 Elizabeth Chambers Rose (WWB, 90) which has wonderful freshness and verve, with a marvelous texture. Look to the downright awesome 2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) showing a great expression of Pinot Noir with serious range and tension. Learn more about these great wines at https://elizabethchamberscellar.com Here are the great new wines by Elizabeth Chambers.

2019 Elizabeth Chambers Rose- Very pretty red fruits dance with shades of honeydew melon on this enticing nose. The palate is beautifully textured with lighter red raspberry, guava and teaberry flavors that mingle with the good sense of minerality. Enjoy this in the short-term while the brightness remains intact. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Winemaker’s Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- Deeply colored, the 2017 ‘Winemaker’s Cuvee’ by Elizabeth Chambers shows a soft, pillowy texture with a deep core of red and dark fruits. The citrus rind and damp earth accents of this wine round everything out, as the 2017 ‘Winemakers’ Cuvee’ will cellar well over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this famed Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard, the 2017 ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with exotic spices that meld with the core of rich red fruits and earthy undertones on the nose. The palate is soft and generous, showing off a ripe mouthfeel. Deep dark fruits collide with orange zest, cinnamon and suggestions of  black truffle crudo on this expressive palate. Fantastic now, the ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will evolve well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Elizabeth Chambers ‘Lazy River Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Lazy River Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with rose water and peat moss tones that collect momentum with the rich ripe red fruits that all mingle in the glass. The palate shows a good freshness and a light dusting of salinity that races through the red cherry and red currant with citrus rind flavors. Bright and energetic, I can see this cellaring well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 91

Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah

On rare occasion I find it absolutely imperative to write about a single wine that stands out in my memory. One of the great wines that has been made over the past two years, the ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah by Force Majeure and maestro Todd Alexander, has become one of the cult Washington and Oregon wines (state dependent on who you speak to). Rather than focus on what state this is made in, the wine deserves full careful examination.

It has become no secret that the ‘SJR Vineyard’ is one of the sacred grounds in Oregon. Walk through the vineyard and you will find one of the most meticulous, carefully managed sites in the Pacific Northwest. Robertson serves as vineyard manager and her background in science gives her an edge with how to crop this great site and how to take care with challenging conditions that the Rocks District can face (including heat pushing 140 degrees with the heating impact of the large cobblestones).

Todd Alexander has wanted to make a wine from the Walla Walla Rocks District since he first began winemaking several years back at Force Majeure. While the Force Majeure lineup leans on their outstanding Red Mountain vineyard, this ‘SJR Vineyard’ project is a stellar addition to their great lineup that was started with a bang with their 2016 release (WWB, 97). 

The 2017 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 97) is every bit as good as last year’s wine. Texturally ethereal, this deftly walks the tightrope between weight and finesse. The aromatic and flavor range imparted in this wine is downright thrilling. In short, the wine is so good that you will simply need to try for yourself — but act fast because this is a highly allocated, limited production bottling that will no doubt sell out quickly. Here is my review of the spellbinding 2017 ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah by Force Majeure and superstar winemaker Todd Alexander.

2017 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah by Force Majeure is a tour de force in Washington and Oregon wine. Not needing any decant, the ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah bursts out of the glass with Hoisin sauce and Umami aromatics that dramatically combine with shades of green olive tapenade, and white pepper dusted bacon fat that all take shape in the glass. The palate has a seamless quality, effortlessly showing off its soft mouthfeel and pillowy texture that mingles with a solid acid backbone. Decadent blackberry cobbler flavors sing in unison with suggestions of milk chocolate covered dark cherry, smoked brisket, creosote and roasted dates. A complete wine, the 2017 Force Majeure ‘SJR Vineyard’ Syrah is fantastic in its youth will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more, picking up more savory and tertiary components as it gracefully ages. Drink 2020-2032- 97

Januik and Novelty Hill

Andrew Januik is one or the bright talents in Washington wine. Jovial, candid, confident and easy to talk to, Andrew has been training under his father for a really long time. He’s worked vintages spanning the globe. ‘We’ve had a really good run’ Andrew said with confidence when talking about the recent vintages in Washington. Consistency is something that you have come to admire from the wines that come from Januik and Novelty Hill. One of the great stops on the Woodinville Wine Country trail, Januik was founded by eminent Washington wine pioneer Mike Januik, who formerly was head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle and Col Solare before starting his own great project. The winery is modern and spacious, with one of the area’s top outdoor spaces. If you have never been to Januik/Novelty Hill, then you are in for a treat.

While the space is gorgeous, the wines are even better. The best Rose that they have made in my opinion is the new 2019 Spring Run Rose (WWB, 90) which has vibrant minerality and just a hint of sweetness. I was really impressed by the 2017 Januik ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which shows the great brightness from this exciting vintage in Washington. The red wines from Januik and Novelty Hill were really impressive across the board. One great value is their 2016 Novely Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Merlot (WWB, 92) which carries nearly everything you want in a great Washington Merlot for under thirty bucks.  Learn more about these great wines at  

2019 Spring Run Rose- The 2019 Spring Run shows sweet strawberry and shades of guava that take shape on the nose. The freshness of thew wine shows marvelously with lighter red fruits that dance with shades of citrus rind.The light kiss of sweetness and light salinity and savory edge is lovely. This is a super refreshing Rose wine that needs a warm summer day. Drink 2020-2023- 90

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Roussanne- This 100% Rousssanne wine shows nice buttered bread and nutmeg character with shades of macadamia nut that all the meld in harmony. The freshness and texture is truly outstanding with the light nutty and flinty toners. This is every bit outstanding that will best be enjoyed in the short-term while the wonderful brightness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 92

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ is another great effort from this outstanding winery. Right away you notice the evocative nose, filled with citrus and buttered bread tones that connect with the lighter musty undertones aromatically. The mouthfeel and textural elements are gorgeous, as is the exceedingly long finish. This effort is every bit outstanding by the talented Andrew Januik. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Januik ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This warm vintage site Chardonnay shows wonderful brioche and lemon curd aromatics that are woven together in the glass. The brightness and wonderful mouthfeel both entice as the wine slowly yields kumquat and green apple flavors that combine with vanilla cream accents. The long, vanilla cream and mineral-driven finish lingers. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Januik ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Riesling- Januik has been producing this wine for over a decade and this is one of the great Rieslings they have produced. This dry, Trocken style Riesling (8 g/l) shows pretty apricot and white rose water aromatics that mingle together in the glass. The freshness imparted is lovely, as the silky texture entices. Lychee and Pink Lady apple flavors greet the wonderful brightness in the wine. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2016 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2016 ‘Stillwater Creek Merlot’ is an outstanding value by Andrew Januik that has beautiful shape and purity of fruit. Right away the Merlot shows lovely red cherry with cocoa powder and shades of damp earth that take shape in the glass. Round and generous, the lovely mouthfeel combines with bright red fruits with milk chocolate accents. This is seriously good for the price at a mere twenty eight dollars, as this wine is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2017 Januik ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Merlot is another awesome offering by Januik. You are immediately drawn to the deep aromatics of milk chocolate shavings, black currants and shades of tar that connect with the lighter herbal undertones that all sing together in the glass. The combination of texture and richness really entices as thew wine is lined with generous dark fruits and chocolate fudge flavors alongside the sagebrush and damp earth accents. Round and downright delicious in its youth, the 2017 Januik ‘Klipsun Vineyard’ Merlot is shining brightly now and will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2017 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ is a seriously good wine that shows the softer side of the varietal. Right away the 2017 Grenache shows red raspberry, guava and shades of red licorice aromas that mingle in the glass. The soft texture entices as the wine shows good verve and energy throughout. Ripe red fruits mingle with minerals and lighter wet stone tones on the palate. Enjoy this great bottling over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 92 

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Sangiovese- Only a few acres are planted to Sangiovese in this esteemed, cool climate, vineyard. The 2017 Sangiovese yields some ripe red fruits that collide with minerals, smoky tones and a light dusting of cocoa powder on the palate. Lightly tannic and lithe, this is sensational wine that will cellar well for the next seven plus years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2016 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome new value release from this outstanding Woodinville outpost. Immediately you are drawn to the lovely leafy and sagebrush tones that artfully combine with the deep dark fruits on the nose. This is extremely well-rounded with mocha and tar flavors that collide with blackberry pie and lighter mineral tones. Quite simply, the wine over-delivers for the price. Enjoy this great bottling over the next decade or so. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Januik ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows red bell pepper and sagebrush tones that mingle with mocha and shades of black tea that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush delivering a soft, lovely texture. Mid-palate your are greeted to layers of dark fruits, creosote and milk chocolate shavings. This is simply delicious wine that shows great in its youth and will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows black licorice and tar tones that meld with the sagebrush and black cherry cordial accents on the expressive nose. This elegant wine has a seamless factor that delights. With great length and texture, the 2016 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2016 Novelty Hill ‘Cascadia’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Cascadia’ Red Wine is another gorgeous wine by the talented father/son team at Novelty hill. A rich combination of dark and blue fruits greet you aromatically. The texture really entices as black tea, black licorice and loads of chocolate connect on the palate. Generous and rich, this will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Jauik ‘Reserve Red’ Red Wine- The ‘Reserve Red’ is Januik’s barrel selection red wine that has been made since 2004. The enticing nose shows gorgeous range from sagebrush to shades of blackberry compote, iron and dark chocolate covered espresso bean tones that all take shape on the nose. The palate is plush, showing a downright sexy mouthfeel. Soft and marvelously textured this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 Januik ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Syrah- This opens with black olive and a deep core of smoked meats that all meld in the glass. Tightly wound with a deep core of dark fruits, try to give this a year or two in the bottle to be fully open and expressive. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2017 Novelty Hill ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- This 2017 Novelty Hill ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah is another wine that overdelivers for the price. You are immediately drawn to the bright and intense aromatics of deep dark fruits, dark chocolate and lavender tones that take shape in the glass. The palate is plush as the wine shows off rich dark fruits that meld with roasted figs and lighter smoky tones on the palate. The is awesome stuff in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

Open Claim Vineyards

I randomly get sent a lot of wine and sometimes the marriage has a love story. In this case, I had never heard of Open Claim before trying their first vintage three years ago.. It is almost impossible to follow every single Pacific Northwest winery. One of the more exciting new wineries in Oregon, Open Claim Vineyards focuses on single expression Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Founded by Marnie and Brett Wall, Open Claim Vineyards create wines that are highly cellar-worthy with their brilliant textures and flavor and aromatic ranges imparted.

A man not needing any introduction, at the helm of Open Claim is one of the Pacific Northwest’s finest winemakers, Tony Rynders. Tony not only makes his wines under his Tendril label but consults for a plethora of great Oregon producers. I had the chance to speak to Tony a few weeks back about his Open Claim wines and he admitted that this is a project steeped in quality that will only get better. These wines, indeed, have an incredibly high ceiling.

The 2017 Open Claim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) is dense and highly complex, showing an incredible soft mouthfeel and texture, with brilliant earthy tones. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.openclaimvineyards.com/ Here are the brilliant 2017 releases by Open Claim. 

2017 Open Claim Vineyards Chardonnay- The 2017 Chardonnay by Open Claim is another intoxicatingly good wine by this exciting new property in the Willamette Valley. Once on the nose the wine leads with nutmeg and sourdough bread that mingle with shades of baked apple and kumquat that all sing in harmony in the glass. Bright and intense, with a wonderful sense of minerality, the wine shows off lemon zest and vanilla cream that combine with the damp stone and earthy undertones. This is really thrilling stuff that has not only a seamless quality but excellent aromatic and flavor range. Enjoy this great new Chardonnay over the next decade as this will be sure to pick up earthy tertiary tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2017 Open Claim Vineyards Pinot Noir- The 2017 Open Claim Pinot Noir is another thrilling new bottling by the talented Tony Rynders. Sour kirsch and shades of orange rind combine with peat moss and black truffle tones that create an enthralling aromatic range. The palate is soft and generous, with a wonderfully plush mouthfeel. Black cherry compote, and guava combine with the damp earthy tones on the palate. Obviously high-toned, the white truffle and frost floor tones catch you off guard — in a good way. Bright, with good minerality, yet showing excellent weight, the 2017 Open Claim Vineyards Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

Bibi Graetz

One of the famed producers of Tuscany that is known for consistency regardless of vintage, Bibi Graetz is an inspired story that has been a revelation since he began winemaking in 2000. In literally the storybook setting of a medieval castle, Castello di Vincigliata, Bibi Graetz creates each wine at this storied estate overlooking Florence. Bibi started with a small, 5-acre vineyard on this hillside in Fiesole. Since his first release in 2000 Bibi has become one of Tuscany’s cult winemakers without having any formal training in winemaking. His Testamatta and Colore bottling have made him an international success. Today Bibi source’s from old vines inTuscany as well as old vines from the Isola del Giglio. His wines are crafted from traditional varieties of Sangiovese, Colorino, and Canaiolo for the reds and the indigenous varieties of Ansonica and Vermentino for his whites wines.

I was totally blown away with the new wines that I tasted. The 2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Bianco (WWB, 95) has a seamless texture and massive range, all leading to an incredible, one of a kind finish. Even better was the 2016 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Red Wine (WWB, 96) which is a head-turning blend of 80% Sangiovese with equal parts Canaiolo and Colorino. Do not miss out on these sensational new wines that are perfect for any serious collector of Italian wines. Learn more about these gorgeous new wines at http://www.bibigraetz.com Here are the incredible new release wines by Bibi Graetz.

2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ Bianco- The 2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ Bianco is a stunning new white wine from this famed estate. This highly novel white wine is sourced from old vine (100%) Ansonica from Island of Giglio, 90 year-old vineyards which are set on granite and sand soil with a Goblet training system. The texture of the wine and bright salinity really shines here as ripe melon and pear flavors mingle with the wonderful sense of brightness and citrus blossom undertones. Fantastic right now, this will evolve well for at least a decade, picking up lovely tertiary notes as it ages. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2018 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Bianco- Comprised of the Ansonica varietal (100% ), 900 bottles of this wine were produced. The grapes for this wine were sourced from the Pietrabona Vineyard on the Island of Giglio, a terraced vineyard situated on the southwest part of the island, facing the sea at an altitude between 200 and 500 feet. Showing off its deep, golden hue, the wine opens with an intense bouquet of honeydew melon, ripe pear, and shades of salted nectarine with hazelnut undertones that all mingle in the glass. The palate reveals a scintillating texture with intense melon, citrus zest and baked apple flavors. The finish lasts for more than a minute. Electrifying and novel, this magical wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 Bibi Graetz ‘Testamatta’ Sangiovese- Made from 100% old vine Sangiovese, the ‘Testamatta’ or ‘Crazy Head’ was sourced from five separate vineyards, with vines up to 80 years of age. The nose screams top old world Sangiovese with its sour cherry, cigar box and dried herb profile that mingles with shades of blood orange zest that all combine marvelously in the glass. The palate is impeccably balanced, with racy salinity and a wonderful high-toned vibrancy to the wine. Ripe red fruits mingle with the leather, damp earth and citrus zest tones to all entice on the mouth. Silky smooth, this finishes long with red fruits and minerals. While fantastic in its youth, this beautiful and elegant wine could benefit from a few more years in the bottle. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2016 Bibi Graetz ‘Colore’ Red Wine- The ‘Colore’ is a silky blend of 80% Sangiovese with equal parts Canaiolo and Colorino. This barrel selection wine is sourced from quite different districts (Lamole in Chianti Classico, Vincigliata near Florence and Siena province in the southern part of Tuscany). There is a marvelous purity of fruit aromatically with the intense red fruits that collide with suggestions of tar, leather, and dusty terroir that take their shape in the glass. The palate is exceedingly refined with velvety tannins and a downright sexy texture. Rich red and dark fruits dance with the mouth-watering acidity, minerals, cigar ash, and shades of white pepper infused cocoa powder on the palate. Exceedingly good in its youth, this beautiful wine will only gets better with time. Drink 2021-2040- 96

WWB 2020 Photo Highlights

We wanted to share a few of many photo highlights from what was a wonderful celebration of Washington wine last Saturday at the Columbia Tower Club (all photos by timdavisimages.com).

Cardinale

A winery with some great history, Cardinale dates back to 1983 when wine icon, Jess Jackson, proprietor of Kendall-Jackson Winery, wanted to produce a top notch red Meritage style wine. Cardinale is named after the original Cardinale vineyard site at Kendall-Jackson's Lakeport winery as the blend is normally predominantly comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon melded with small amounts of Merlot and, in certain years, Cabernet Franc. Grapes are harvested from hillside vineyards located in both Napa Valley and Sonoma County. The wine is aged in 100% new French oak Chateau barrels before bottling. 

A visit to Cardinale is a must for any serious collector of Napa wine. Cardinale is an absolutely stunning property located in the Napa floor, in Oakville not far from Robert Mondavi Winery and Opus One. At the helm is superstar winemaker, Chris Carpenter, is an MBA graduate that gained experience as a harvest enologist at Domaine Carneros Winery, a vineyard intern at Domaine Chandon California, and a research intern at Tenute Antinori, Santa Cristina Estate, in Montefiridolfi, Italy, before coming to Cardinale. A few years back I was fortunate enough to do a special vertical tasting of this wine which was such a memorable experience (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/blog/2018/1/29/cardinale-vertical-tasting-mandarin-oriental-hotel-nyc). The new 2016 Cardinale Red Wine (WWB, 97) one of the best Cardinale wines that I can remember. This gorgeous, silky red blend is remarkable in its youth. The power and tension of the wine, with tremendous freshness, yet intense viscosity, really makes this wine sing. Learn more about this incredible wine at http://www.cardinale.com/ Here is my review of the stunning 2016 Cardinale Red Wine

2016 Cardinale Red Wine- The 2016 Cardinale Red Wine is a thrilling blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot crafted by superstar winemaker, Chris Carpenter. The wine was aged in 100% French oak (93% new) for twenty months before bottling. The stunning aromatics almost catch you off guard. Deep aromatics of creme de cassis, graphite, creosote, and blackberry compote all come together seamlessly in the glass. The freshness and intensity of the wine is gorgeous, as the silky mouthfeel makes the wine effortlessly glide across the mid-palate. Deep dark fruits collide with chocolate covered espresso bean, tar and anise flavors all marvelously sing in unison on the palate. A truly stunning heavyhitter of a wine, the 2016 Cardinale Red Wine will be very long-lived. Drink 2022-2050- 97

Amavi Cellars

Today we present one the great wineries featured tomorrow for our 3rd Annual Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington. Amavi is a limited production Walla Walla winery located in the southern end of town. With sweeping views of the valley and mountains, Amavi is a modern facility that is a unique, picturesque setting to try their beautiful wines. Family run, Amavi sources from vineyards such as Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Les Collines to create their rich and ready to drink wines. Head winemaker Jean-François Pellet is a third-generation winemaker and grape grower. Pellet also makes wines for Amavi’s sister property, Pepper Bridge, in which he crafts a more Bordelaise style of wines.

The Amavi red wines come from the warm 2017 vintage that show wonderful poise and typicity. These wines have slightly less structure than the Pepper Bridge wines as they are made for early enjoyment. Pellet has crafted some gorgeous new Syrah and Cabernet bottlings. He also crafts a sensational Rose wine that is not yet released. The 2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah (WWB, 92) is beautifully textured and shows lovely depth and complexity. I absolutely adored 2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrahn (WWB, 93) which has amazing earthy terroir with dense dark fruits from this very special property in the Walla Walla Valley. Learn more about Amavi at http://www.amavicellars.com

2018 Amavi Cellars Semillon- Aromas of cut grass, honeydew melon and shades of beeswax all entice on the nose. The palate has really good freshness with a silky texture and soft mouthfeel. This is enticing stuff now with its baking spice and ripe orchard fruit and melon flavors but I can imagine this cellaring well for at least another seven years. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah-Plush and rich on the nose, the wine unveils ripe blackberry cobbler aromas that meld with shades of milk chocolate and black tea on this expressive nose. The palate has good freshness, weight and acidity, as light tannins line a core of deep dark fruits with chocolate undertones. Downright delicious to enjoy now, this will cellar well for at least another seven years. Drink 2019-2027- 92

2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- Over the past decade the ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ has become one of the great vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley for Syrah. The prototypical dried herb profile of the wine entices, as does the blackberry cobbler and shades of wet stone aromatics that mingle in the glass. The palate has a wonderful freshness and lifted texture with light tannins that mingle with the black fruits, dried thyme and citrus rind accents. This impresses with its mouth-watering acidity that brings you back to the glass for more. The long finish accentuates this beautiful bottling by superstar winemaker Jean-Francois Pellet. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Amavi Cellars ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is another impressive bottling from this outstanding Walla Walla producer. On the nose this takes on ripe blackberry jam with shades of mocha, black lire and spicy undertones that all march on command in the glass. The bright sense of minerality is one of Pellet’s hallmarks here, as the gobs of acidity combines with the black fruits to give off a Bordelaise effect. Balanced and highly poised in its youth, be sure to give this a one hour decant if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Mark Ryan

One of the storied wineries in Woodinville, Mark Ryan continues to deliver an impressive lineup of high-quality red and white wines. Founded in 1999 by Mark Ryan McNeilly, Mark has a great story that he was mostly self-taught as a winemaker. He finally settled on a Woodiville warehouse location in 2003 and has continued producing wonderful wines since that time. Mark Ryan is a gorgeous tasting room, near Purple restaurant, in the heart of Woodinville Wine Country. It one of the more boisterous and fun place to try wine in the area. If you have never had the chance to visit the tasting room on the weekend, it is a must visit.

For many years now Mark Ryan has received international acclaim for his red wines in particular.  I adored his 2017 Mark Ryan ‘Water Witch’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which has wonderful density and good freshness. Even better was the 2017 Mark Ryan ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) which is an amazing textural experience, showing gobs of dark fruits with lovely earthy undertones. Learn more about these great wines at http://www.markryanwinery.com Here are the outstanding recent red wine releases by Mark Ryan.

2016 Mark Ryan ‘Water Witch’ Red Wine- The ‘Water Witch’ is a blend of largely Cabernet Sauvignon (64%) with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a touch of Petit Verdot. Inky in the glass, this shows rich dark fruits and chocolate enveloped by toasty oak that fill the nose. The palate shows good richness and terroir with chocolate covered dark cherry, mocha and sagebrush flavors that all mingle beautifully. A long-ager, this is best enjoyed over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Mark Ryan ‘Water Witch’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the ‘Water Witch’ has deep and brooding aromatics of black tea, exotic spices, blackberry compote and shades of milk chocolate the all mingle in the glass. The freshness and mid-palate viscosity is really good. Deep dark fruits mingle with the sagebrush and chocolate tones. Every bit outstanding in its youth, the 2017 ‘Water Witch’ will have at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2016 Mark Ryan ‘Lonely Heart ‘Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Lonely Heart’ was sourced from the Red Mountain AVA and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Once in the glass the wine picks up rich dark currant, dark cherry cordial and Turkish coffee aromas. The palate is lithe, showing a soft texture and good intensity. Dark fruits mingle with chocolate and coffee tones on the palate. This has a long life ahead of it. If enjoying in its youth, give this at least a one hour decant. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2016 Mark Ryan ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Mocha and crushed mint with sagebrush and blackberry cobbler all combine on the nose in this beautiful Columbia Valley AVA Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate shows a wonderful elegance and purity of fruit. Red and dark fruits connect with chocolate and coffee flavors alongside earthy undertones. Downright delicious now, the combination of balance and weight suggests this will cellar well for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Mark Ryan ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a sinfully good new wine by Mark Ryan. Aromatically intense, the wine has sagebrush, mocha and tar tones that are woven together with deep dark fruits and shades of pipe tobacco that all sing in unison in the glass. The weight and balance of the wine is downright awesome, as the pillowy, soft texture entices. While this provides plenty of appeal in its youth, the 2017 ‘Old Vines’ Cabernet Sauvignon will have a long life ahead of it. Be sure to give this at least a one hour decant if enjoying in its nascent phase. Drink 2020-2033- 93

de Lancellotti

A small Oregon winery founded by Paul and Kendall de Lancellotti, their story begins with the planting of a family vineyard in 1998. Paul and Kendall were both early partners of Bergstrom Wines in 1999, followed by the the planting of the de Lancellotti vineyard in 2001 which is a 16 acre Chehalem Mountain parcel focusing on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Flash forward several years, de Lancellotti Family Vineyards was founded in 2005 focusing on producing high quality Pinot Noir that showcases specific terroir and vineyards. 

The new releases by de Lancellotti were really good across the board. Their new 2017 ‘Le Moe Figlie’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91) has great astringency and freshness from this great vintage for Chardonnay. I loved the 2017 de Lancellotti ‘Ornelia’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which combines lovely volcanic terroir with great acidity and earthy tones. Learn more about this exciting estate at http://www.delancellottifamilyvineyards.com/ Here are the great new wines by de Lancellotti.

2016 De Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay- The 2016 de Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay shows lovely tertiary tones aromatically ranging from cinnamon infused challah bread to wet stone that all mingle in the glass. The balance and freshness of the wine is excellent, as medium-bodied orchard fruits play with nutmeg and sourdough bread flavors. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay- Just as good as the ’16 edition, the 2017 de Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay has medium-bodied Pink lady apple, nutmeg and French bread flavors. The brightness and soft texture of the wine really is excellent as this would be a wonderful pairing for shellfish. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Arlyn Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Arlyn Vineyard’ is located high atop the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The bright red fruit and citrus rind aromas entice. The freshness and weight of the wine is outstanding, as is the lovely peat moss and wild mushroom undertones. This is downright delicious wine that will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Famiglia’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Famiglia’ Pinot Noir shows lighter to medium-bodied cran-cherry and guava tones with hints of cinnamon and forest floor. With bright acidity, this will be best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Onelia’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Dundee Hills AVA, the wine has a lovely dark fruit aromatic profile with a dusting of volcanic earth and damp earth terroir that all take shape in the glass. The palate has a silky texture that entices. Black tea, blackberry compote and shades of peat moss and wild mushroom all combine brilliantly. While remarkable in its youth, the ‘Onelia’ will have at least another decade in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 De Lancellotti ‘Le Corsia’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the ‘‘La Corsia’ opens with a lovely dusty volcanic terroir, woven together with an amalgamation of red and dark fruits aromatically. The soft texture entices, as the wine unveils a deep core of red fruits with damp earth and cigar box undertones. Every bit delicious now, the ‘La Corsia’ will have at decade of life or more left. Drink 2020-2033- 92

MTR Productions

We have a very special feature for you today out of Walla Walla. Matt Reynvaan is a man needing no introduction. He will be graciously pouring his wines this Saturday at Washington Wine Blog Critic’s Choice of Washington 2020 and he has crafted a can’t miss new release. We now have the third edition of MTR Productions which was just released by Matt and Lauren Reynvaan. The wine is sourced from their ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA and underwent serious barrel and bottle aging prior to release. 

The 2014 ‘Memory Found’ is a head-turning, 100% Syrah wine from the warm 2014 vintage. They have made less than 150 cases of this glorious wine. The Syrah was aged in French oak and 600L oak puncheons and then saw 36 months of bottle age. This is a one of a kind wine that is not to be missed. The wine shows a stunning texture and soft mouthfeel. Dazzling minerality really impresses here despite the obvious heat of the vintage. The wine becomes even more complex following extended decanting. Uncork this wine, let it sit for an hour and then enjoy over several hours. Learn more about this beautiful wine at http://www.mtr-productions.com Here is my review of the 2014 MTR Productions 'Memory Found' Syrah. 

2014 MTR Productions ‘Memory Found’ Syrah- The ‘Memory Found’ is a limited production Syrah bottling by superstar winemaker Matt Reynvaan sourced from the ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ in The Rocks District AVA. Needing a one hour decant to fully evolve, the wine shows downright sexy aromas of black tea, Hoisin sauce and Umami, woven together with lighter wet stone and citrus rind accents that march in place in the glass. The weight, texture and freshness of the wine makes this a show-stopper. Wild mushroom, peat moss, green olive tapenade, wild blackberry cordial and seaweed wrapped blood orange rind all marvelously come together on the palate. Ironically, the earthy tones of the wine give this a Burgundian edge. Tried over several hours in a Riedel Syrah glass vs. a Riedel Burgundy glass, I prefer the aromatic range actually in the Burgundy glass. Drink 2021-2033- 95

Interview with Greg Brewer, Co-founder and Winemaker of Brewer-Clifton

One of the iconic producers of California Pinot Noir, Greg Brewer is the co-founder and winemaker at Brewer-Clifton. Greg started his career as a French instructor at UC Santa Barbara before being trained in wine production at Santa Barbara Winery starting in 1991. He created his eponymous label, Brewer-Clifton with original partner Steve Clifton in 1996 and also Melville where he worked as winemaker from its inception in 1997 through the end of 2015. His wines are gorgeous, deftly combining terroir with bight acidity and hedonistic aromatics. 

I have long admired these wines since I first began tasting in Santa Barbara back in 2003. I won’t forget my first visit to Brewer-Clifton and Melville which were sleepy, micro-production wineries that flew under the radar for far too long. The new wines by Brewer-Clifton were dazzling across the board and I recently had the chance to sit down with Greg and chat wine. Articulate and genuine, Greg talked about his background in wine as well as some inspirational people who have touched his nearly 30 year winemaking journey. I think you will very much enjoy hearing his story in wine. Here is my exclusive Interview with Greg Brewer, Winemaker and Co-founder of Brewer-Clifton.  

WWB: What initially drew you to winemaking?

GB: Back in 1991 I was an instructor at UC Santa Barbara and I was enjoying that, I loved working in education. At 21 I was working on a masters degree that I never finished, and I realized my heart wasn’t in it. The research component to the gig wasn’t as enticing and at the same tine by coincidence I had seen an ad for a job working at a tasting room in Santa Barbara and I applied. Although didn’t get the job the first time from the moment I walked in the door to the winery I realized that was what I wanted to do. I was enchanted by the winery with the barrels, the music and people. A few weeks later I applied for another job at the winery and began working. For about a year I was still teaching at UC Santa Barbara and working in the tasting room. Then I had a chance to work in winery production in a small level at by the end of 1992 I was able to begin working as assistant winemaker. The winemaker was amazing and he has been working at the winery for 30 years. He gave ma a shot even though I didn’t have the knowledge or experience but it was a small team there at Santa Barbara Winery, the oldest one in the county. He knew that I worked hard and that I was really into it. I owe him the world. He taught me 95% of what I do as there was a huge risk taking and calm demeanor that he has maintained — a duality is not that common. I learned a lot from that and maintaining composure but also being willing to take huge risks in the winemaking process. 

WWB: What are some of your favorite vintages that you have worked with in Santa Barbara County? What have been some of the most challenging vintages for you?

GB: Living in the Santa Barbara area we have been blessed that we have remarkable consistency with regards to weather. There are a few things that are favorable with the vintages I have worked with. The region has this amazing climate which in 29 years of doing this I have never bee forced to pick because of adverse weather in the fall. That in itself is phenomenal and I have that as a huge advantage. Another advantage I only work in this one small area. For the better part of three decades I have worked on a five mile stretch of one road. I am not saying that I know it all but you gain intimacy with a place like that. It gives you the opportunity to be very close to the environment and be vulnerable with the environment. It is like being with a partner. It has been great and I have been blessed with upwards of 25 year old relationships in the area which gives you the opportunity to stick your neck out and drop your shoulders and raise these wines in a minimal fashion. 

WWB: Your new 2016 Brewer-Clifton ‘Machado’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is a thrilling new wine with gobs of salty terroir and incredible range. Can you talk about crafting this special wine. How are you able to impart this level of range and terroir?

GB: Machado is a vineyard that we planted in 2008. Back even in 2016 a good portion of the vineyard would make its way into the Santa Rita Hills bottling and it always has. When we planted there is a little knoll on the property that is really easy to identify from our website. It is eight acres of the vineyard that is flat and then roughly five acres at the vineyard is defined by a little knoll. When we planted that we wanted to make the wine based on the section of the site and we knew that knoll was going to be relevant. We planted clone 37 and 459 there. 2010 was our first Machado designate bottling. The Pinot Noir is 100% whole cluster fermented and a blend of both clones. We knew that the wine would offer very primary pure fruit and very dense lush curvy fruit and the whole cluster frames that curvature. The stems give the spice and also tannin and then the wine is fermented for a long time and then aged for a year and a half. There is a lot of pure intent in the winemaking process. The Machado family is really kind and they came to the area from Portugal in 1917. They own about 1200 acres in the area and because we all know each other they were open to leasing 15 acres of their property to us on a long term land lease. It is their land but we are able to borrow it. It is a beautiful scenario with you having the ability to put another person’s family legacy on the label and there is a lot of responsibility but I love that too. They are really into the wine and winemaking process and are prideful of the wine.

WWB: What are some of the best wines that you have ever tasted?

GB: A lot of these wines come to mind. But I think for me just like anything there are a handful of wines that I have had in my formative years that really turned my life upside down and set me on the path where I have gone. The older you get the more you get numb to things unfortunately. But as a kid it is like tasting ice cream for the first time. One formative wine would be a wine from Calera, their 1987 ‘Jensen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir which I tried in 1993. I would also say that the 1987 ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ from Williams-Selyem was one of the most influential wines that I had. Burt Williams who recently sadly passed away lived in our area part time and spent a lot of time at our winery. I learned a lot from him. Learning about minimal handling and stem inclusion, stewarding things in a quiet way and allowing things to be as they are. The wines blew me away but the people behind them even more so. These have been critical people in my winemaking career. In terms of old world wines that have influenced me, I have been blessed to try sone crazy Burgundy over the years. One of the monumental wines I tried was the 1990 Domaine Leroy ‘Savigny Les Beaune – Les Narbantons.’ Her wines are amazing and at the time back in 1993 I knew about the winemaker but had never tried her wines. At the time the wine wasn’t too expensive not like it is now. It was either 1993 or 1994 and I wanted to share the wine with others at the winery for my birthday. I had brought the wine to the winery a week before and we opened it and I had never had any wine like it. We all had it and talked about it and then there was about an inch or two eft in the bottle and Bruce my boss said that I should cork it and try it tomorrow. I did and the next day it was something completely different. That lesson I remember vividly, having that wine the first time and them the day later. So those three wines are really intense and all rely on stem inclusion which is no surprise. Extreme in their practice and approach to winemaking but yet are also very simple in the approach. 

Decanted Podcast #33 with Sean P. Sullivan and Dr. Owen Bargreen

Friends, check out the latest Decanted Podcast featuring yours truly and Sean P. Sullivan of Wine Enthusiast. Link here:  https://decantedpodcast.com/episode-33-critics-choice-sean-p-sullivan-and-dr-owen-bargreen/

Walla Walla Wine in Seattle

We wanted to share a few of many highlights from what was an epic tasting of Walla Walla wine yesterday in downtown Seattle.

Doubleback

Doubleback

One of the great Washington wineries for Cabernet Sauvignon, Doubleback was founded by NFL legend Drew Bledsoe. Originally from Walla Walla, Drew attended high school there and then had a great career at Washington State University before spending many years with the New England Patriots. For many years Drew had wanted to own his own winery following his illustrious career in football. Going back to Walla Walla was the perfect choice for him. Drew returned to Walla Walla in 2007 to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen, on the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Doubleback was born in 2008 which would focus on estate fruit to create world class Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla. Drew knew he needed a top class winemaker and connected with childhood friend and superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, of Leonetti Cellar, who served as consulting winemaker until Josh McDaniels assumed the role in 2015. Here is my interview with Josh: (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/blog/2016/10/13/interview-with-josh-mcdaniels-head-winemaker-of-doubleback-and-sweet-valley-wines). Doubleback has a world class facility in Walla Walla just outside of town. Their rooftop has sweeping views of the valley and is the perfect spot to sip their outstanding wines and feel like you’re a world away from home.

Josh has been winemaking for more than ten years and while he is not new to making great wine, he has an incredibly high ceiling in terms of the wines that he seeks out to make. It is no surprise that Chris Figgins recognized his abilities many years ago. I was blown away with the new 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which is a precise and dense wine that has an exceedingly long life ahead of it. One of the great Cabernet Sauvignon wines that I have had from Washington all year is the 2017 Doubleback ‘Estate Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) which is a massive, monster of a wine that will need some time to fully evolve —yet it is sinfully good in its youth after extended air. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.doubleback.com/

2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a masterful effort by superstar winemaker Josh McDaniels. Needing a one hour decant to fully be  aroused, once awoken there are deep layers of dark fruits woven together with black licorice, cigar box and shades of Turkish coffee and asphalt that all sing in unison in the glass. The balance and purity of fruit mid-palate is simply gorgeous. Long and generous, with moderate tannins and exceptional length, the combination of weight and acidity really impresses. While obviously a big wine, this has a magical sense of elegance and balance. This is thrilling stuff in its youth, as the 2017 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2017 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep, hedonistic monster of a wine. Massive, brooding dark fruits invade the nose with black currants, Black Forest Cake and creosote that all take shape in the glass. The sense of balance mid-palate is gorgeous. Even better is the seamless quality of the wine that effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. While obviously intense, the lifted, pillowy effect induced on the palate is seriously good. Dark chocolate covered espresso bean, tar, creme de cassis and suggestions of blackberry compote with light smoky and herbal undertones complete this scintillating Cabernet Sauvignon. This finishes extremely long. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this massive wine at least a two hour decant. Try to let this sit at least another year. Drink 2021-2045- 97

Swiftwater Cellars

If you have not tasted Swiftwater Cellars wines, you are in for a treat. This under the radar winery is based at the Suncadia Resort roughly 20 miles east of Snoqualmie Pass. It is a breeze to get there especially in the summer months. I had a chance to visit Andrew Wisniewski and his Swiftwater Cellars wines last year and really enjoyed tasting his new efforts from the barrel (and stainless tanks). A younger guy, Andrew brings great energy to this program and has amassed more than a decade of winemaking experience prior to joining Swiftwater Cellars in 2014. He has worked in New Zealand, Australia and more recently Oregon, where he served as Cellar Master for the Stoller Family Estate.

I really enjoyed his new lineup of wines which are to be released this spring. Look to the 2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Proprietary White’ White Wine (WWB, 91) which has textural opulence and a silky mouthfeel. I loved the 2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which is an awesome value out of Oregon and shows really good range and tension. Even better was the highly impressive 2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Reserve’ Syrah (WWB, 93) which has brilliantly dialed in smoky and savory tones with a plush texture. Learn more about this exciting winery at https://www.swiftwatercellars.com Here are the great new wines by Swiftwater Cellars. 

2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2018 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc was aged in 35% new French puncheons and saw 8 months sur lie aging before bottling. Light nutty aromas meld with shades of Bosc pear and nutmeg infused starfruit on this expressive nose. The palate surprises you with wonderful viscosity and texture, as this bright, yet well-weighted wine will cellar well over the next five to seven years. This is a seriously good style of Washington Sauvignon Blanc. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Proprietary White’ White Wine- The 2018 ‘Proprietary White’ is a Bordeaux style white wine comprised of 58% Sauvignon Blanc and the remainder Semillon all sourced from the Klipsun Vineyard on Red Mountain. The soft texture combines with a bright sense of minerality, as the wine unveils lemon zest with kumquat and Gravenstein apple flavors. Considering the site, this has good freshness and verve, with a long finish. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Swiftwater Cellars Viognier- The 2018 Swiftwater Cellars Viognier has 12% Marsanne blended in. Aromas of ripe apricot, honeysuckle and green papaya give this an exotic aromatic presentation. The freshness and mid-palate weight is seriously good as the silky texture entices. Enjoy this over the next seven years. Drink 2020-2026- 91

2018 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this esteemed, cool-climate vineyard in the Yakima Valley, the wine takes on bright pear with lemon cream aromatics that take their shape in the glass. The palate is round and generous with a soft texture. Bright tropical fruits mingle with shades of vanilla cream on the palate. The long, mineral and cream-driven finish lingers long on the palate. This is truly fantastic stuff by the talented Andrew Wisniewski. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Matteri, Saffron Fields and Guadalupe Vineyards, the ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir opens with blood orange zest alongside bright red fruits and damp earth undertones that mingle together in the glass. The palate is medium to full-bodied, delivering a silky texture and copious red fruits that dance with minerals and citrus rind tones. This is seriously good stuff that will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘No. 9’ Pinot Noir- The ‘No. 9’ Pinot Noir was stored in French oak (15%) for fourteen months before bottling. This comes off on the leaner side with pomegranate seed and shades of kumquat zest on the palate alongside minerals. Drink 2020-2025- 89

2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Thistle Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Thistle Vineyard’ is located in the Dundee Hills AVA as the wine was stored in French oak (25% new) before bottling. Intense black fruits with damp earth tones and hints of cola fill the nose. The palate is juicy, showing bright acidity alongside deep dark fruit flavors. Round and generous, this is seriously good Pinot Noir that will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation and was aged in a small amount of new French oak (15%) before bottling. Bright red fruits with light tannins and gobs of acidity line the palate. The mouthfeel and texture of the wine really entices, as does the long finish that lingers on the tongue. A delight to savor now, the 2016 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah by Swiftwater Cellars shows milk chocolate tones that collect momentum with black tea and blackberry cobbler on the nose. Forward and showing good freshness, the wine delivers straightforward black fruit flavor with lighter herbal tones on the palate. Enjoy this in its youth. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah- Sourced from this famed Yakima Valley Vineyard, the ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah was aged for eighteen months in 100% neutral puncheons prior to bottling. Smoky and savory tones mingle with black tea and boysenberry preserves on this expressive nose. The palate reveals a silky mouthfeel, with bright red and black fruits that collide with the damp earth and milk chocolate tones on the palate. Every bit delicious in its youth, the 2017 ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah will have another decade or more in the cellar. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Syrah was aged for 18 months in 25% new French puncheons prior to bottling. Forward and dense, the silky mouthfeel entices. Blackberry compote, leather and dried herbs collide with minerals and dark chocolate cake on the palate. Dense and generous, this great effort will cellar well for ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Swiftwater Cellars ‘Reserve’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Reserve’ Syrah is a gorgeous new wine by the talented Andrew Wisniewski. Sourced almost entirely from the Boushey Vineyard, the ‘Reserve’ shows lovely damp earth tones that connect with bacon fat, roasted figs and shades of milk chocolate on this exotic bouquet. The freshness, tension and soft mouthfeel is gorgeous. Black tea, exotic spices, bacon fat and shades of black olive tapenade flavors give this a savory edge, and are deftly woven together with the dense core dark fruits. Appealing now for its verve, the 2017 ‘Reserve’ Syrah will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2033- 93

Interview with Sadie Drury, General Manager, North Slope Management

Wine interviews can come in the most serendipitous of circumstances. I was emailing with Sadie Drury about an event that she helps put on at Seven Hills Vineyard and I realized that it had been far too long since I had interviewed a well-known vineyard manager. Sadie has a degree from the Walla Walla Community College program in Enology and Viticulture and interned at the famed Red Mountain Ciel du Cheval Vineyard before becoming Assistant Vineyard Manager there. She manages eight vineyards including the Seven Hills Vineyard. I think you will very much enjoy hearing her story in wine. Here is my interview with Sadie Drury, General Manager of North Slope Management.

WWB: How did you decide to pursue a career in viticulture?

SD: I have always enjoyed working outdoors and in agriculture. I had been training horses but after a few dead ends I knew it was time to find something else. A date with a winemaker of all things led me to decide to grow grapes.  I liked wine and I wanted to be a farmer so I thought it would be a good fit. After my first viticulture class at WWCC I knew I had found my calling.  

WWB: What were some of your first major moments in wine education and who have been some of your biggest mentors?

SD: I had the opportunity to learn from Stan Clarke before he passed away. He really took a chance on me by letting me in the Enology and Viticulture program at WWCC, and I knew I didn’t want to let him down. My first viticulture internship was at Ciel du Cheval in 2008, and so my bosses were Ryan Johnson and Jim Holmes. I was always in awe of how much they knew about vineyards and how well they could balance the demands of growing grapes for so many important customers. Additionally, on my first day of work Ryan sent me over to meet the neighbor, Dick Boushey, who was planting a vineyard. He and I immediately hit it off. My introduction to such important people in the industry were huge moments in establishing my career. All four men have taught me a lot along the way and have been amazing mentors to me.

WWB: You currently manage eight different vineyards. What are some of the challenges with this huge task? 

SD: The biggest challenge to managing eight properties is employing enough people to farm them and then prioritizing the jobs that need to get done on each property with nothing slipping between the cracks. My seven years managing vineyards at SeVein have taught me which properties I need to tackle first, and which blocks and varieties are more forgiving and I can push out to last. During the growing season I try to get into each vineyard each day so nothing is missed. Overall, communication with the winemakers and landowners is key to getting the jobs done in a logical order and keeping everyone happy. I have an amazing team of employees who understand this challenge and help me in every way possible.

WWB: Can you talk about some of the challenges with managing vineyards in very hot vintages like 2015 and 2016?

SD: I don’t think anyone knows the best way to manage vineyards on really hot vintages yet, which is why I took a recent trip to South Australia to learn what they are doing. The challenge on hot vintages is really being flexible, proactive, and believing that the decisions you are making in the moment are the best decisions. When there’s abnormal heat in the forecast, sometimes I have to throw out what’s “normal.” Irrigation and canopy management are the two most important things we will do during the growing season and we really only have one shot to get it right. If I have the crew pull too many leaves or if I underwater a little too much during a heat wave, I just potentially ruined the wine.

WWB: When you are not enjoying Washington wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world? What is your favorite wine that you have had from one of the vineyards that you manage?

 SD: I love Oregon Pinot Noir and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, probably because I can’t get anything similar from Washington.

As for the wines that I grow, L’Ecole’s Estate Ferguson Vineyard is my favorite vintage after vintage. It’s incredibly terroir-driven and solidly made. It’s a challenging site to farm because of the thin soils and windy location, so I really taste all the hard work come together in the bottle.