Friends, today marks our inaugural Tempranillo Report, highlighting the top Tempranillo wines made in North America. I have long admired the top Tempranillo wines from Spain. Having visited top estates in Ribera del Duero and Rioja, revered world stars like Pingus, Contador and Vina Tondonia have always captured my attention. It is no surprise that Tempranillo is considered to be Spain’s noble grape.
Clearly an underdog grape in North America, today you can find some incredible examples of the varietal — some made in a similar style to those in Spain and others made quite differently. ‘I see Tempranillo a bit differently,’ says eminent vigneron Christophe Baron. ‘Tempranillo is a great alternative to Cabernet Sauvignon when ordering a rich steak. The reason is the balance in the wine.’ Speaking with Christophe I was initially surprised by his comment — but what he said make perfect sense. Considering the level of quality that top Tempranillo can bring, we need to consider Tempranillo more seriously as a varietal.
Baron produced the top Tempranillo wines in North America, with his 2017 Cayuse Vineyards Impulsivo’ Tempranillo (WWB, 97) and 2017 No Girls ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Tempranillo (WWB, 96) sitting at the high table with their insanely good stony profiles, Umami and gorgeous terroir and finesse. The other top Tempranillo wine I tasted was from Red Mountain, the gorgeous 2017 Force Majeure ‘Estate’ Tempranillo (WWB, 96) which is a dense, massive, monster of a wine that has vibrant acidity and a downright voluptuous mouthfeel.
Southern Oregon produced some beautiful wines, none more so than the brilliant 2016 Reustle ‘Winemaker’s Reserve’ Tempranillo (WWB, 92) which is deep, burly and silky smooth once on the palate. As for California Tempranillo, Epoch produced some glorious releases in 2014 and 2015. The talented Jordan Fiorentini weighs in on her wines, noting that her 2014 ‘is an ‘example of the variety in a warmer vintage where tannins are softer.’ The 2014 and 2015 Epoch Tempranillo (both WWB, 93) showed some differences but were equally good, rich and decadent examples of the varietal. I think that Tempranillo has a bright future in North America considering the quality that I was able to taste through these varying regions. Here are my tasting notes from my inaugural 2020 Tempranillo Report.
Oregon
Willamette Valley:
2015 Raptor Ridge ‘Reserva’ Tempranillo- Sourced from the Rogue Valley, this ‘Reserva’ Tempranillo shows good range aromatically from cedar to milk chocolate tones and bright red fruits that all take shape in the glass. The palate is medium to full-bodied delivering bright acidity alongside wild blackberry compote, milk chocolate tar and shades of menthol. This is outstanding Tempranillo that will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91
2016 Vidon ‘Explorer’ Tempranillo- This excellent new Tempranillo bottling shows forward dark cherry with loganberry flavors and damp earth tones with light tannins that line the fruit. The fruit is bright, as is the acidity, as the citrus rind accents and damp earth tones add complexity. Drink 2020-2027- 90
Southern Oregon:
2016 2 Hawk ‘Darow Series’ Tempranillo- The 2016 ‘Darow Series’ shows better richness than their entry level bottling, with toasty oak that melds with the dark fruit and chocolate aromatics. The soft texture entices as the wine yields layers of chocolate spice cake and kirsch flavors with light tannins. Enjoy this over the next several years while the good core of acidity remains. Drink 2020-2025- 89
2017 Abacela ‘Fiesta’ Tempranillo- The ‘Fiesta’ Tempranillo shows forward dark fruit and cocoa powder flavors with a good freshness. Enjoy this excellent bottling over the next several years. Drink 2020-2024- 88
2015 Abacela ‘Reserve’ Tempranillo- The nose is exceedingly good with layers of chocolate woven together with pipe tobacco, leather and damp earth that all combine in the glass. The palate has a polished texture with ripe blackberry cobbler and leather tones that mingles with shades of blood orange and bulls blood. Great to enjoy in its youth this great older wine will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91
2015 Belle Fiore Tempranillo- Sourced from their 31 acre estate vineyard, the 2015 Belle Fiore Tempranillo shows good acidity with citrus rind accents that meld with the ripe red and dark fruits on the palate. The long finish accentuates this great new, well-balanced Tempranillo bottling that is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 90
2016 Delfino Tempranillo- Forward and generous, the 2016 Delfino Tempranillo opens with slightly sweet red and dark fruits with chocolate fudge tones and a light dusting of salinity. Enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2020-2025- 89
2017 Foris Tempranillo- This Rogue Valley , medium-bodied Tempranillo shows bright acidity with juicy red and black fruits with citrus rind and earthy undertones on the palate. While not having the fullest mouthfeel, the bright acidity really shines here. Drink 2020-2025- 89
2017 J. Scott Cellars Tempranillo- Rich and layered, the 2016 J. Scott Tempranillo has a beautifully perfumed nose with layers of chocolate and sagebrush that collide with smoky undertones on the nose. The freshness of the wine is awesome, as cocoa powder and smoked meats mingle with minerals and shades of wild blackberry cobbler on the palate. Drink 2020-2025- 91
2015 Kriselle Tempranillo- Inky in the glass, the 2015 Kriselle Tempranillo shows nice scorched earth tones alongside shades of chocolate, blackberry pie and tobacco leaf that all take shape in the glass. The palate is bright, with good acidity and balance. Medium-bodied dark fruit flavors mingle with cocoa powder and earthy undertones on the palate. This is well-made Tempranillo that is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 90
2016 Names Family Vineyards Tempranillo- The 2016 Naumes Family Vineyards Tempranillo shows toasty oak tones that mingle with shades of pipe tobacco and leather, with lighter dark fruits on the nose. The palate is lacking a bit of weight but has good freshness with blackberry and milk chocolate flavors, with lighter damp earth tones. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2020-2024- 88
2014 Paul O’Brien Tempranillo- The 2014 Paul O’Brien Tempranillo shows medium-bodied red currant and wild blackberry cobbler flavors that mingle with minerals and a light tannic backbone. What this misses in mid-palate weight, it makes up for it with its smooth texture and brightness. Drink 2020-2025- 88
2016 Paul O’Brien ‘Cask 11’ Tempranillo- The ‘Cask 11’ opens with toasty oak that connects with the dark fruits and light milk chocolate tones. The palate has good freshness with medium to full-bodied kirsch, leather and mocha flavors that meld with light tannins that frame the wine. Enjoy this excellent new wine over the next seven plus years. Drink 2020-2027- 90