de Lancellotti

I love boutique Oregon wineries that focus on great Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Founded by  Paul and Kendall de Lancellotti, who were both early partners of Bergstrom Wines in 1999, they chose to plant their own vineyard in 2001 which was 16 acre Chehalem Mountain parcel focusing on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Flash forward several years, de Lancellotti Family Vineyards was founded in 2005 focusing on producing high quality Pinot Noir that showcases specific terroir and vineyards. 

Legendary Oregon winemaker Robert Brittan continues to serve as consulting winemaker as he does for many other producers throughout the Willamette Valley. De Lancellotti continue to be well-served with his expertise as the wines show good aging potential and finesse which was at times challenging in 2018 — a vintage that saw massive heat spikes during the summner. I really enjoyed the new 2018 de Lancellotti releases. Look to the outstanding 2018 de Lancellotti ‘Le Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91) which shows the good ripeness of the vintage with a nice veil of tension. I loved the 2018 de Lancellotti ‘Famiglia’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which has awesome volcanic terroir and a great core of red fruits with good acidity. Learn more about these great wines at http://www.delancellottifamilyvineyards.com/ Here are the great new wines by de Lancellotti.

2018 de Lancellotti ‘La Sorella’ Chardonnay- Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards, the ‘La Sorella’ Chardonnay has kiwi and wild mushroom tones alongside the core of baked apple and pear tones. The palate has a soft texture as this shows nice length with a light dusting of salinity across starfruit, poached pear and Challah bread flavors. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2018 de Lancellotti ‘La Mie Figlie’ Chardonnay- This wine is a tribute to de Lancellotti daughters. Layers of melon, baking spices and toasty oak collide on the nose. The palate is soft and generous with a great sense of mouthfeel. Vanilla cream flavors mingle with minerals, ripe banana, kiwi and shades of nectarine on the palate. With good length, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2018 de Lancellotti ‘La Sorella’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘La Sorella’ sourced from three separate vineyards from Calkins Lane in Newberg, Oregon. Sour red fruits take the lead with shades of cinnamon and cloves on the palate, as earthy undertones also mingle. Enjoy this solid effort in the short-term. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2018 de Lancellotti ‘Famiglia’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Famiglia’ Pinot Noir is entirely sourced from the Chelahem Mountains AVA and is a blend of Pommard, 828, 777 and 115 clonal selections. Cran-ornage and shades of pomegranate seed with dusty terroir all fill the nose. The palate is smooth with a great sense of mouthfeel and light dusting of salinity. Layers of bright and sour red fruits collide with Mandarin orange zest and shades of peat moss on the palate. Delightful to enjoy in its youth, this outstanding wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2018 de Lancellotti ‘Arlyn Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the ‘Arlyn Vineyard’ utilizes Mount Eden, and Dijon 667 clones. The mouthfeel is fantastic as this shows great weight and freshness. Very pretty red fruits and rose water tones dance with blood orange, damp earth and shades of cloves on the palate. Generous and round, the 2018 ‘Arlyn Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will enjoy another fifteen years of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2018 de Lancellotti ‘La Corsia’ Pinot Noir- The ‘La Corsia’ s a barrel select wine from the Arlyan and Lachini Vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. A light dusting off salinity falls on the core of bright red fruits with pomegranate seed and baking spices on the palate. The peat moss undertones also round out this complex wine that shows off a downright sexy mouthfeel. Finishing strong with good length, the delicious ‘La Corsia’ will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2018 de Lancellotti ‘Ornelia’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 de Lancellotti ‘Ornelia’ Pinot Noir was sourced from the Dundee Hills AVA. Ripe red currants and wild blackberry tones dance with exotic spices, and forest floor tones on the nose. The feeling of tension and mouthfeel is really great as a light salinity melds into the core of red and dark fruits, with shades of wild mushroom and peat moss on the palate. WIth great length, the 2018 ‘Ornelia’ will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

The Owen Bargreen Way of Reviewing Wines

I am often asked how I review wines and why I publish stories on wines that inspire me. The truth is that I try so many wines each year that I am not physically able to write on every wine or every producer. My blog highlights the special wines and wineries that I have recently tasted. Many of my reviews are posted to my website but I do not post reviews on every wine that I try. I am not interested in posting negative reviews on wines. On my 2020 Pacific Northwest Rose Report, I only posted on roughly one half of all of the wines that I tried. This is because I want to share the wines that I feel stand out either as the top wines or the top value Pacific Northwest Rose wines.

All the wines that I try are judged using indoor tasting conditions and proper varietal stemware. Whether it is Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, I always use proper stemware regardless of varietal because I know that wines that are not reviewed using proper varietal stemware will not show the same or as well. If a wine is muted or not showing well, I always come back to it. If needed, I ask for instructions from wineries about their wines. I will decant wines that I feel need more air, as some wines needed several hours in the decanter to reach their full potential. I ask for tech sheets for each of the wines that I try and also research the wines that I try, even if I am familiar with the wine or brand. I take my time with each wine and do not do 30 second tastings as I feel that does not give wines the amount of attention that they deserve. Wines can be truly part of a winemaker’s soul and I want to ensure that the wine is showing at its best when I sit down to write my reviews.

Why I Do Not Post Negative Reviews

It may seem to some that my reviews are overly positive and that I only post positive reviews on wines. As a clinical psychologist, I know the effects that negative feedback can have on a product that someone has potentially put their heart and soul into. Therefore, unless I am asked very specifically, I do not provide feedback to those reviews that I do not post or the wines that I did not judge favorably. 

When I evaluate personality in my clinical practice, it is admittedly a very sensitive practice to share with a patient when the data reveals that there is something wrong with someone’s personality. You do not openly publish this information, because sharing this data involves so much emotional connection for the patient and can evoke sadness, grief, anger and a host of emotions. The same can be true with sharing a negative review on a wine that the person most likely spent a very personal connection with. From my perspective, posting an openly negatively review about a wine is something that can be quite shaming to someone, just as sharing a personality problem would be. I am not interested in shaming an individual or winery but I am very open to having an individual conversation with a winery owner or winemaker about a wine. If a wine did not show well according to my palate, I am not interested in sharing that publicly.  

I realize although I am an expert in Washington, Oregon and California wines, I am only one palate. That does not mean that I am necessarily right in my critiques of wines, it means only that I am an expert in my field based on the massive amount of wines that I have tried from these regions since I began seriously reviewing wines in 2011. My reviews do not fit everyone’s perspective or palate.

I am Committed to Promoting Wines From Washington, Oregon and California

Just as I am not interested in posting negative information or negative reviews on wineries, my posts focus on promoting these glorious wine regions. I post varying articles from Walla Walla, the Willamette Valley, Sonoma, Napa, Paso Robles and many more. I hope that you enjoy having a breath of content. When I try a wine that is truly special then I will post on it, as I regularly post about special Champagnes and wines of Sauternes. I have been reviewing wines from Champagne, Sauternes and Spain now for more than five years not only for Washington Wine Blog but International Wine Report. This is a glorious opportunity to keep abreast of these regions as well. I am now writing for Decanter Magazine as well, which will help them keep updated with wines of the Pacific Northwest in particular. 

I continue to use not only my website but Facebook and Instagram to promote these three regions. I feel that my coverage interviewing winemakers and winery owners on Instagram Live has been unprecedented in our field and I will continue to use this outlet to share more content that I find to be unique and interesting. Covid-19 conditions permitting, I will continue to host what I consider to be the premier tasting event in Washington State, and a special thanks to all of you who attended WWB 2020, it was a sensational event to remember back in February.

Thank You Readers and Wineries

Finally, I want to personally thank all of you for reading Washington Wine Blog and helping my vision of creating content that shares the stories of the top wineries of Washington, Oregon and California in particular. I cannot share this information without your support and the help of these illustrious wineries. I am very indebted to all of you, from near and far, that read my features and take interest in this fascinating world of wine. I will continue to work hard to create content that I hope you find as interesting as I do. 

Cheers,

Owen Bargreen

Chappellet

Today we share one of the famed houses in the Napa Valley founded by pioneer Donn Chappellet. Donn began his wine education by collecting Bordeaux wines while in college, and later ran Interstate United Corporation, a coffee-vending distributorship he co-founded in the mid-1950s, which he helped turn into the third-largest such business in the United States, with more than 7,000 employees and a listing on the New York Stock Exchange.

In 1966 he sold his shares in Interstate United and guided by the legendary winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyards bought 320 acres of rocky mountain terrain at the eastern edge of the Napa Valley. Donn saw this terroir as one which would connect with the great wines of Bordeaux. He saw the potential for Pritchard Hill and initially planted Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon which was met with great critical acclaim. Sadly passing in 2016, Donn became a legend of this great site in the Napa Valley.

Winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus has been at Chappellet remarkably since 1990. A graduate of UC Davis, Phillip spent time traveling to both Bordeaux and Burgundy to learn about these esteemed regions. In 1981, Phillip joined the Chappellet team as assistant winemaker, and then in1990, Donn Chappellet invited Phillip to return to the winery as Chappellet’s winemaker, a position he has held ever since. Phillip’s wines were simply outstanding across the board. I absolutely adored his new 2018 Chappellet ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) showing great verve and elegance from this famous Sonoma outpost. I adored the new 2017 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Franc (WWB, 94) which is dense, showing a wonderful veil of tension and mouthfeel. This beautiful wine has another twenty years ahead of it. Learn more about this famed Napa estate at chappellet.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Chappellet. 

2019 Chappellet ‘Signature’ Chenin Blanc- Sourced from Pritchard Hill, the ‘Signature’ Chenin Blanc shows a lovely mouthfeel and inviting texture. Bright melon tones mingle with citrus rind, kiwi and gooseberry on the palate. Enjoy in the short-term while the minerality stays intact. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2018 Chappellet ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Dutton Ranch’ has been one of the great spots in Sonoma for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for several decades now. Salted red fruits mingle with minerals and shades of cola on the nose. The palate has bright acidity with a great sense of mouthfeel. Layers of black cherry and cola meld with damp earth and orange rind tones on the palate. Soft and elegant, with a silky mouthfeel, the 2018 ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir by Chappellet will enjoy a long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Chappallet ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Chappellet is a great blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Petit Verdot and 8% Malbec that was entirely sourced from their vineyards on Pritchard Hill.. Needing an hour in the decanter to fully evolve, the Cabernet Sauvignon slowly begins to unveil layers of tar, scorched earth and rich dark fruits that meld with tobacco leaf tones on the nose. The palate shows a great core of tension that collides with the dark currants, cigar box and mocha tones on the palate. Well-balanced and having a great sense of place, the 2017 Chappellet ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Franc- The 2017 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Franc is a gorgeous effort from this vintage. Light herbal tones connect with milk chocolate, tobacco leaf and blackberry compote on this evocative nose. The palate is wonderfully plush, with layers of rich dark fruits and very light red bell pepper tones, with chocolate covered espresso bean marking its territory. This has great tension and length, as this beautiful Cabernet Franc wine will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2038- 94

Frank Family Vineyards

Founded in 1992 by Rich and Leslie Frank, Frank Family Vineyards is one of the jewels of Napa Valley. As the former President of Disney Studios, Rich Frank traveled extensively across the globe, trying the great wines of the world. Over time he knew that Napa Valley was the perfect setting to start a winery. Rich had an incredibly successful career and under his leadership, television and movie properties such as Cheers, Entertainment Tonight, Golden Girls, Ellen, Dead Poet’s Society, Pretty Woman, Aladdin, and The Lion King achieved worldwide acclaim. Rich also is the longest serving President of The Academy of Television Arts and Sciences (Emmys). 

Leslie also had an incredibly successful career, spending more than 25 years covering news stories, and the last nine years of her TV news career reporting and anchoring at the number-one-rated station, KABC in Los Angeles. Prior to Los Angeles, Leslie was the main anchor at KCPQ, the FOX affiliate in Seattle, where she helped launch its 10 pm newscast, taking it to number one in its time slot and receiving an Emmy for Outstanding News Anchor. Rich and Leslie are fully invested in Frank Family Vineyards' as they manage everything from vineyard purchases, to sales and marketing. 

Superstar winemaker Todd Graff first stated with Frank Family in 2003. I loved his wines across the board as he has really earned a fantastic reputation for his Chardonnay wines over the years. I was totally blown away with their 2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) which is a glorious, seamless wine that is not only beautifully textured but has insanely good elegtnance and poise. Even better was the sinfully good 2017 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Patriarch’ Red Wine (WWB, 96) which shows great poise, richness and concentration as this powerful wine will cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about these outstanding wines at frankfamilyvineyards.com Here are the outstanding wines by Frank Family Vineyards.

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay- Over the past decade or so, Frank Family Vineyards has crafted a really good Chardonnay for the price. This edition scores with its pretty bouquet with tropical and orchard fruits with toasty oak. The palate is soft and seamless with layers of banana, vanilla creme brûlée and butterscotch with toasted Brioche tones and shades of Meyer lemon. The long finish lingers. Seriously good in its youth, this beautiful new Chardonnay will enjoy at least a decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- Not for the weary, the 2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay is a stunning new bottling that is flat out sensational to enjoy even at this stage in its development. Once on the nose the toasty tones artfully combine with ripe pineapple, kumquat zest and vanilla cream that all mingle together in the glass. The palate has a great veil of tension, with beautiful minerality and length. Layers of buttercream, bananas foster and Meyer lemon curd combine with the minerals and great texture of the wine. A total heavyhitter, the 2018 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay by Frank Family Vineyards will be exceedingly long lived. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir- Light and delicate in color, this 2017 Pinot Noir leads with medium bodied red cherry cola flavors that mingle with minerals, orange rind and damp earth tones on the palate. With good length this great new bottling will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Every bit outstanding, the 2018 ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir is a glorious new wine by Todd Graff. Once on the nose tones of red rose petal and red raspberry are woven together with smoke, cran-pomegrante and shades of dusty terroir. The palate is rich and viscous, with a great veil of tension. Ripe Yakima cherry flavors combine with baking spices, minerals and cran-orange flavors with light damp earthy tones. This finishes very long. Great to savor in its bright phase now, the 2018 ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir will be long-lived. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve' Sangiovese- Rarely planted in the Napa Valley, the 2018 ‘Reserve’ is entirely sourced from the ‘Winston Hill Vineyard’ in the Rutherford AVA. This rendition is ripe and simply fabulous with fine grained tannins that line the core of ripe red raspberry, pomegranate seed, leather and menthol tones on the palate. The long, gratifying finish really impresses. Very full-bodied for Sangiovese, this has both the poise and weight to cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel- Frank Family Vineyards have created a fantastic new Zinfandel is one that sees good richness and poise from this warm vintage in the Napa Valley. The palate has a great sense of mouthfeel and texture, with good poise and richness delivering pretty black plum, exotic spice and red cherry candy flavors. With good length this downright delicious new wine will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Zinfandel- The 2017 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Zinfandel is nothing short of a stunning bottling that is nearly impossible to resist in its youth. On the nose shades of dill and bright Bing cherry with baking spices and Hoisin sauce all take the lead. The palate has a seamless texture and remarkable sense of mouthfeel and tension. Well-balanced, slightly sweet red fruits dance with minerals, citrus rind and cigar box flavors, with remarkable poise and precision. The seamless texture really entices as the glorious length of the wine provides the resounding crescendo. Stunning in its youth, this beautiful Zinfandel is one for the cellar, providing drinking enjoyment for more than a decade to come. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from vineyards throughout the Napa Valley, the 2017 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is a terrific new effort from this storied estate and winemaker Todd Graff. Tobacco leaf and red bell pepper tones combine with the core of dark fruits on the nose. The palate is downright delicious as layers of black raspberry and mocha mingle with minerals and light herbal undertones no the palate. Showing good length and balance, this outstanding new Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2017 Frank Family Vineyards ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon is named after owner and founder Richard Harvey Frank. Sourced from their estate ‘Benjamin Vineyard’ on the valley floor, the wine shows gorgeous violet tones with creme de cassis, anise, Turkish coffee and dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Elegant, this has really good weight and length, with a light dusting of loamy terroir. Full-bodied yet wonderfully balanced, this beautiful wine is just starting to show its potential at the three year mark and has decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous, dense effort from Frank Family Vineyards. Once on the nose sandalwood tones combine with creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and shades of sweet pipe tobacco with loamy terroir. The palate is gorgeous, showing great balance and poise. Layers of menthol and mocha mingle with damp earth, graphite and cassis. With great elegance and length, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 Winston Hill ‘Rutherford’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Winston HIll ‘Rutherford’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a dense, massive wine that has a long life ahead of it. On the nose, expressions of tobacco leaf, coupled by mocha, tar and sweetened anise with creme de cassis all enter the fray. Viscous, with a great degree of tension, layers of dark fruits parade with light tannins and a core of chocolate cake and espresso bean flavors. Gorgeous and full of life in its youth, the 2017 Winston Hill ‘Rutherford’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2022-2040- 94

2017 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Patriarch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Patriarch’ is an ode to Fly Frank’s 99th year of life. Sourced from the ‘Winston Hill Vineyard’ this was aged in 21 months in 75% new French oak barrels before bottling. Mocha, tar and shades of creme de cassis all mingle together on the nose. The palate has great viscosity and tension with layers of mocha, anise, creme de cassis and exotic spices. Dense, chewy and round, with firm tannins and good grip, the 2017 ‘Patriarch’ Cabernet Sauvignon is utterly sensational at this stage in its development and will provide drinking enjoyment for many decades. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this at least a three hour decant. Drink 2020-2045- 96

Instagram Live with Vigneron Christophe Baron

Friends,

Please join me Friday August 14th, 4:00 Pacific for a very exclusive Instagram Live, an intimate conversation with wine icon Christophe Baron of Cayuse Vineyards 🍷🔥 @thebionicfrog

Kapcsandy Family Winery

A remarkable story about a man pursuing his American dream, Lou Kapcsándy came to the U.S. from his native Hungary in 1956, pursuing a successful career in chemical engineering and manufacturing in the Bay Area and Seattle. Over time he began sourcing some of the great French wines and was able to know some of the icons of the Washington State wine industry. Following a visit to Chat4au Leoville-Las Cases, Lou came to fall in love with the Napa Valley for producing Bordeaux varietals and he discovered a 20-acre parcel in Yountville, its vineyard ripped out after the pest Phylloxera had destroyed it the year before. In May 2000, they closed escrow on the historic Beringer Estate State Lane vineyard that had been the home base of that company’s Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon program. I have long admired these wines from the 1990s, as the terroir from this site is truly incredible. 

The Kapcsándys then replanted their vineyard to 15 specific blocks, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Within three days of harvest 2005, construction on a state-of-the-art winery was complete. Waling the rows with Lou several years back he talked about his passion for Cabernet Franc and Merlot, rather than Cabernet Sauvignon. I have found the Kapcsandy Cabernet Franc and Merlot to be some of the finest in North America. The lineup is one that shows restraint but also precision and power. These are wines that will cellar well for decades. I was completely blown away with the 2017 Kapcsandy ‘Rapszodia’ Cabernet Franc (WWB, 97) which is the best Cabernet Franc bottling I have tried over the past year. The elegance and sense of place is second to none. Just as good was the sensational 2017 Kapcsandy ‘Grand Vin’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) which is dense, massive and nowhere near ready. The wine is a head-turning wine that is highly nuanced and will be ready to consume after about four to six years in the bottle. Learn more about this famed Napa valley estate at https://www.kapcsandywines.com Here are the gorgeous new rele4ases by Kapcsandy.

2017 Kapcsandy ‘Estate Cuvee’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Estate Cuvee’ is largely Cabernet Sauvignon based with a touch of Merlot added, as the wine was aged in primarily new French oak barrels, with some Hungarian and second use oak prior to bottling. Right away the combination of red and dark fruits captivate the senses aromatically, as anise and creme de cassis, tar an shades of wild blackberry pie all come into play on the nose. The palate has exquisite balance with a great sense of weight but also a seamless effect mid-palate. Layers of dark fruits are woven together with shades of milk chooclate, sweet pipe tobacco, leather and creme de cassis on the palate. The combination of length, weight and acidity is seriously profound. A true heavyhitter, the 2017 ‘Estate Cuvee’ is remarkable in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for many years to come. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2017 Kapcsandy ‘Rapszodia’ Caberent Franc- ‘Rhapszodia’ is Hungarian for a great musical composition as this magical Cabernet Franc wine is truly a masterpiece in a bottle. The 2017 ‘Rapszodia’ shows incredible aromatics of red bell pepper, cassis, anise, dark cherry compote and shades of damp earth that all take shape in the glass. The palate is remarkably elegant with its silky texture as the wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Layers of red and dark fruits with a light dusting of of cocoa powder, anise and black currant jelly all marvelously combine on the palate. The combination of acidity and gorgeous weight really make this sing. Get ready for the exceedingly long finish that drives home like a 50 yard field goal. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this at least a two hour decant. Drink 2022-2045- 97

2017 Kapcscandy ‘Roberta’s Reserve’ Merlot- I am comp[etely blown away with the 2017 ‘Roberta’s Reserve’ Merlot. Sourced from the famed ‘State Lane Vineyard’ the 2017 ‘Roberta’s Reserve’ Merlot is a scintillating new release by Kapcsandy. Weighing in at near 15% alcohol, the Merlot was aged in 70% new French oak and 30% second-fill French oak before bottling. The nose shows serious range from red bell pepper to shades of red cherry with sandalwood and dark currants that all meld in the glass. The silky mouthfeel provides an incredible feel of elegance to the wine. Milk chocolate covered cherry with cigar box, anise and suggestions of graphite all come together seamlessly on the palate. The length of the wine truly excites, as this glorious new Merlot will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Try to resist this glorious new release for at least a few more years. Drink 2022-2045- 97

2017 Kapcsandy ‘Grand Vin’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Grand Vin’ Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the great wines that I have sampled over the past year. Sultry, elegant and showing incredible poise, the 2017 ‘Grand Vin’ gorgeous Cabernet Sauvignon has layers of dark currants and tobacco leaf with shades of clove and mocha, with tar and Asian spice accents the all knee in the glass. The palate is not only rich and decadent but has a seamless effect that is very hard to describe on paper. Rich and layered, while possessing a vibrant core of acidity, the wine unveils ripe dark currant and graphite tones that mingle with sandalwood, black currant cordial, Turkisich coffee and shades of creosote that all come together marvelously on the palate. Wait for the exceedingly long finish. Everything is magically put together right now as the stunning 2017 ‘Grand Vin’ will enjoy an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2023-2050- 97

Orin Swift

A Napa house known for their intense and full-throttle approach to winemaking, Orin Swift has a great lineup of wines that are not for the weary. Orin Swift Cellars was started in 1995 when on a lark, David Swift Phinney took a friend up on an offer and went to Florence, Italy to spend a semester “studying”. During that time, he was introduced to wine, and he later landed a job at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997 as a temporary harvest worker. In 1998 he founded Orin Swift Cellars; Orin is his father’s middle name and Swift is his mother’s maiden name. Starting with two tons of Zinfandel and not much else, David spent the next decade making wine for others as well as himself and grew the company into a multinational brand. The winery also has a great tasting room in downtown Napa where you can try his brilliant range of wines.

David’s labels are highly evocative and show his brilliant marketing ability. But what inside the bottle is what impresses across the board. The new wines were really outstanding across the board. The 2018 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years in the Desert’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) is a Zinfandel based blend that shows a beautiful texture, lovely mouthfeel and compelling complexity. A true heavyhitter, the 2017 Orin Swift ‘Mercury Head’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) is beautifully textured but also shows great poise. I love this wine, as it has some massive cellaring potential. Learn more about Orin Swift’s strong lineup at http://www.orinswift.com. Here are some of the gorgeous release wines by Orin Swift.

2018 Orin Swift ‘Blank Stare’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2018 ‘Blank Stare’ is a gorgeous new effort by Orin Swift entrely sourced from the Russian River Valley AVA. Ripe peach and honeysuckle tones fill the nose with shades of nutmeg. The palate shows plenty of baking spice flavors alongside gorgeous gooseberry, kiwi, and lemon zest infused sourdough bread. With great length and weight, this outstanding new wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Orin Swift ‘Mannequin’ Chardonnay- This California Chardonnay shows plenty of toasty oak on the nose with Golden Delicious apple and freshly baked French bread tones rounding out the nose. The palate is soft, with a smooth sense of texture. The length really impresses here, as does the great sense of viscosity that comes off delightfully unctuous. Really good right now, the 2018 ‘Mannequin’ will cellar well for a decade to come. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2018 Orin Swift ‘Slander’ Pinot Noir-  Aged for ten months in 42% new French oak, this outstanding new Pinot Noir was sourced from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA as well as from Annapolis, Olson Ranch, Sleepy Hollow and MacMurray vineyards. Cola and cran-orange tones combine with shades of ripe guava and sassafras on the nose. The palate has good weight and balance with layers of red fruits with citrus rind, and cola tones. The weight here really delights. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2018 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years In The Desert’ Red Wine- The ‘Eight Years In The Desert’ is a Zinfandel based proprietary blend that was aged for 8 months in French and American Oak (37% New). The nose takes the lead with red currants that meld with shades of ripe plum and savory tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is round and generous with a good acid backbone. Layers of red and dark fruits combine with salted chocolate malt balls, with tar and leather mingling together on the palate. Not for the weary, this delicious and generous wine will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 93

2017 Orin Swift ‘Abstract’ Red Wine- Consistently one of the great values in California wine, the 2017 ‘Abstract’ is a proprietary blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah and Syrah that was aged for only eight months in mostly used oak before bottling. The nose smells like Grenache and Petite Sirah with its high tones (red rose petals, red cherry candy and guava) from the Grenache and the deep, brooding blueberry and tar tones from the Petite Sirah. The palate is plush with a great sense of decadence and mouthfeel. Layers of blueberry compote, mocha, tar and kirsch cordial all collude with minerals and a great acid backbone. With light tannins and good length, this gorgeous, generous wine will provide drinking enjoyment for more than a decade. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 Orin Swift ‘Pappillon’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Pappilon’ is a great Bordeaux stye wine made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot that was aged for 15 months in 43% new French oak prior to bottling. Creme de cassis aromatics artfully combine with tar, and suggestions of Black Forest cake on this gorgeous nose. The palate is fresh, dense and downright gorgeous. Layers of kirsch cordial, cassis, mocha and creosote combine with the great sense of minerality and good tension and length. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, this beautiful new Cabernet Sauvignon wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Orin Swift ‘Palermo’ Red Wine- The ‘Palermo’ is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged for eight months in 38% new French oak prior to bottling. Mocha, tar and anise tones are woven together with shades of allspice and red bell pepper on the nose. The palate is plush, delivering dense anise, blackberry compote and creme de cassis flavors with minerals and a strong tannic backbone. The weight and acidity here is really good Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, the beautiful 2017 ‘Palermo’ will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Orin Swift ‘Mercury Head’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Orin Swift ‘Mercury Head’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a sensational new release by this Napa winery. On the nose there are beautiful red rose petal tones that are woven together with mocha, anise, creme de cassis and shades of blueberry compote. The palate is dense and decadent with a great acid backbone. The freshness and elegance of the wine really shines, as ripe Hoisin sauce and baking spices collide with rose water, blackberry cordial, Turkish coffee and shades of dark licorice. A complete wine, showing a hedonistic bent yet possessing great freshness, the 2017 ‘Mercury Head’ will enjoy a very long road ahead of it. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Holocene

One of the outstanding producers of Oregon wine, Holocene is the brainchild of superstar winemaker Todd Alexander. While In Napa Todd focused on producing world class Cabernet Sauvignon and moving to Washington he continued that voyage by partnering with Force Majeure Vineyards. But he had a yearning to do something very different and produce Oregon Pinot Noir from diverse sites in the Willamette Valley. This winery was launched in 2015 and the new releases are from the 2018 vintage.

I haven’t had a chance to review these wines for several years but the most recent releases were truly beautiful and very different. Todd sourced from the ‘Monksgate Vineyard’ and the ‘Antiquam Farm Vineyard’ which are completely different sites with very different soil types. Several ,months back I had the chance to taste with Todd and talk about his special Oregon project. The wines come from the warm 2018 vintage which was a challenge for some producers to maintain a high degree of tension in Pinot Noir. The Holocene wines from this vintage have a really nice veil of acidity alongside the ripe core of red and dark fruits. The terroir expressed in each wine were really divergent and nothing short of awesome. I found both wines to be equally good in my mind, as I rated both of these wines 94 points — truly some of the great Oregon Pinot Noirs that I have tasted over the past year. For serious collectors of Oregon Pinot Noir, these are a must purchase. Learn more about this awesome Oregon outpost at http://holocenewines.com Here are the beautiful new release wines by Holocene. 

2018 Holocene ‘Memorialis’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Memorialis’ was 100% whole cluster fermentated sourced from the Monksgate Vineyard which is set on WillaKenzie soils. The wine was nearly entirely aged in natural oak prior to bottling. The wine is high-toned with pretty red raspberry and rose petal tones that all come together. Thew freshness and trdxtrure of the wine is truly outstanding. Layers of bright red fruits with red cherry candy, pomegranate seed and first floor tones that all come together beautifully. This has a great sense of mouthfeel, salinity and texture. Gorgeous now in its youth, this beautiful wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2034- 94

2018 Holocene ‘Apocryptha’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the ‘Antiquam Farm Vineyard,’the wine is a blend of 113 and 115 Dijon clones. Sour kirsch with shades of Mandarin orange rind and a dusting of volcanic earth all come together on the nose. The mouthfeel and texture of the wine are both really wonderful. Layers of wild blackberry and rose water combine with shades of blood orange zest and Umami flavors which all meld together. The length of the wine beautifully accentuates this gorgeous wine. Drink 2020-2035- 94

Gary Farrell

One of the storied properties in the Russian River Valley. Gary Farrell focuses on high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir by sourcing from some of the region’s great vineyards. Founder of his namesake winery, Gary Farrell made his first wine under the Gary Farrell label in 1982 and was one of the first highly successful wineries to settle in the Russian River Valley. Building a state of the art facility in 2000, Gary eventually sold his winery in 2004 following a series of highly successful vintages and wines. Currently at the helm is Theresa Heredia who has a long winemaking history, and has previously had stints at Napa’s Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Freestone Vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. She even worked for Domaine de Montille in Burgundy learning the art of crafting Pinot Noir and has been winemaker at Gary Farrell since 2012. 

A former UC Davis PhD candidate in Chemistry, Theresa has crafted some beautiful new wines for Gary Farrell. Look to her 2017 Gary Farrrell ‘Hallberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which has great poise and range. I loved the 2017 Gary Farrrell ‘Toboni Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which his dense, and has great freshness and texture. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.garyfarrellwinery.com Here are the great new wines by Gary Farrell. 

2017 Gary Farrell ‘Hallberg Vineyard Dijon Clones’ Pinot Noir- This unique bottling is sourced from the Hallberg Vineyard in the Russian River Valley AVA and owned by Brice Jones. Lovely damp earth tones combine with wild blackberry cobbler and hints of blood orange rind on the nose. The palate has good freshness and shows round red fruits that mingle with minerals, Mandarin orange zest and shades of wild mushroom. The length and texture is really good, as this beautiful wine has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Gary Farrell ‘Hallberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Hallberg Vineyard is a dry-farmed site ocated in the Russian River Valley AVA. Layers of kumquat zest and red currants are woven together with earthy undertones on the bouquet. The sense of mouthfeel is really nice, as bright orange zest and pomegranate seed flavors combine with minerals and peat moss tones on the palate. The length and richness of the wine really impress, as this excellent effort has at least another decade ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Gary Farrell ‘Toboni Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Toboni Vineyard’ is located in the Russian River AVA and has a strong maritime influence, as the site was planted in 2001 to clones 115, 667, 777 and Pommard, all on 101-14 rootstock. The freshness and texture is great, as cola, Satsuma orange rind and cranberry flavors are woven together with sassafras and baking spices. With great length and mouthfeel, this outstanding Pinot Noir will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

Merry Edwards

We all sat and listened, mouths wide open as Merry spoke. This was a very special occasion taking in Merry’s account of her storied wine journey during her wine dinner in Naples, Florida. It was an absolute joy to hear her story roughly one year ago, as she is truly one of the iconic women in world wine. Nobody makes Sauvignon Blanc just like her and her winemaking style has landed her several times on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list. 

Merry began her career in 1973. She sought to plant her own vineyards where she could capture flavors through site-specific viticulture. In 1996, she purchased 24 acres of sloping hillside in the southern hills of Russian River Valley, intent on growing Pinot Noir on this promising site. With her husband, Ken Coopersmith, as her helpmate, Merry planted 20 acres of vineyard at Meredith Estate in 1998 and harvested a small crop in 2000. In 1999 Merry and Ken expanded the brand’s estate program by purchasing 9.5 acres on Laguna Ridge in the heart of Russian River Valley and planted in 2001. The first Coopersmith Pinot Noir released was a 2004 and this esteemed site is where Merry Edwards winery first began. 

It was an honor interviewing her after the dinner, as she talked about how she crafts her wines, sourcing from some of the great sites in Sonoma County. For many years I have enjoyed visiting her winery and tasting some of her new and older vintages. For two years Merry Edwards has had Heidi von der Mehden as winemaker. Heidi trained under Merry and has hit a home run with her new releases. I was blown away with her 2018 Pinot Noir wines and the 2018 Merry Edwards ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) has awesome poise and salty character from this AVA. Even better was the sinfully good 2018 Merry Edwards ‘Coopersmith’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which its dense and shows exotic tones on the bouquet. One of the great sites for Pinot Noir in California, the 2018 Merry Edwards ‘Klopp Ranch’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is sensational and vibrant, yet shows its earthy, Burgundian elegance. This is truly one for any serious collector of California Pinot Noir.  Learn more about this famed Russian River outpost at merryedwards.com Here are the gorgeous new releases by Merry Edwards. 

2017 Merry Edwards ‘Olivet Lane Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Olivet Lane Vineyard’ Chardonnay is an awesome new wine from this storied estate. On the nose this shows toasted hazelnut tones that combine with vanilla cream and shades of Pazzaz apple that all take shape in the glass. The palate is beautifully textured and shows a seamless effect that is highly gratifying. Layers of buttercream combine with Bosc pear and citrus rind accents. A complete wine, the gorgeous 2017 ‘Olivet Lane Vineyard’ Chardonnay will provide drinking enjoyment for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Merry Edwards ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir is sourced from six different vineyard in the AVA. On the nose the saline drenched red fruits entice, with suggestions of charcuterie and damp earth accents. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a great veil of salinity that races through the bright Bing cherry, pomegranate seed, cola and Mandarin orange rind flavors with shades of white truffle. Complex and delicious in its youth, the 2018 ‘Sonoma Coast’ Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade to come. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Merry Edwards ‘Coopersmith’ Pinot Noir- Merry Edwards and her husband, Ken Coopersmithm, purchased a 9.5-acre apple orchard in 1999 and planted this Russian River Valley location to Pinot Noir. Cran-cherry and cola tones combine with shades of potpourri on this beautiful bouquet. The palate has a marvelous sense of freshness and astringency as layers of bright red fruits dance with Satsuma orange zest, exotic spices and a lovely saline streak. Vibrant and full of life in its youth, the outstanding  2018 Merry Edwards ‘Coopersmith’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2018 Merry Edwards ‘Olivet Lane’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Olivet Lane Vineyard’ was first planted nearly forty years ago and it has been several decades since Merry Edwards has been sourcing from this esteemed site in the Russian River Valley. On the nose this takes on tones of cola and cranberry with damp soil and shades of wild mushroom that all meld in the glass. The palate is beutifully textured, creating a seamless effect that catches you off-guard. The length and generous red fruits with damp earth and orange zest tones all sing in harmony. Fantastic and downright captivating to enjoy in its youth, the gorgeous 2018 ‘Olivet Lane’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2018 Merry Edwards ‘Klopp Ranch’ Pinot Noir- I have long admired wines from this famed site as Merry Edwards seems to have a deft touch on this site the Russian River Valley. Set on sandy loam soils, the 2018 ‘Klopp Ranch’ Pinot Noir shows suggestions of white truffle shavings and cola that meld with Mandarin orange rind and Yakima cherry aromatics. The palate is seamless, showing light tannins that frame a big core of bright red fruits, with cola, damp earth and cardamom tones that sing in unison. The combination of freshness, verve, mouthfeel and weight is seriously good. While enticing to savor now, the 2018 ‘Klopp Ranch’ Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment for at least fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 95

Champagne Bollinger

One of the historic houses in Chamapgne, Bollinger is one with an amazing past. Founded in 1829 in Ay by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger as this house continues to be run by members of the Bollinger family. This house has been particularly popular in Britain as Bollinger Champagnes have been come to be known as “Bolly”. It is quite amazing that Bollinger dates back to 1585 when the Hennequins, one of the Bollinger founding families, owned land nearby. Before the Bollinger house was founded, in the 18th century the Villermont family made wine and then 1750, Villermont settled in the location 16 rue Jules Lobet, which would eventually become the head office for Bollinger.

In 1803 Jacques Joseph Placide Bollinger was born in modern day Germany and after moving to the Champagne region he started work at the Champagne house of Muller Ruinart. He then started the Champagne house Renaudin Bollinger was founded on 6 February 1829 in Aÿ by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Levieux Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger. The partners agreed that the Villermont name would not be used on the labels, hence the house name Renaudin Bollinger. Starting when Jacques Bollinger married Charlotte de Villermont, the house has been managed by the Bollinger family. Even though Paul Renaudin passed without an heir to his name, the label did not become solely Bollinger until the 1960s. Founder Jacques had two sons Joseph and Georges that were important in expanding the family estate by purchasing vineyards in nearby villages. The sons also developed the image of the brand, such as when Bollinger received a Royal Warrant in 1884 from Queen Victoria which still appears on their label.

Following the death of Jacques Bollinger in 1941, Lily Bollinger took over the brand and expanded production considerably. Since 1994, Ghislain de Mongolfier has managed Bollinger. A great-grandson of the founder, Mongolfier has also served as president of the Association Viticole Champenoise since 2004, after leading the Commission of Champagne for 10 years. Bollinger has had roles in many James Bond films, including the 1973 film Live and Let Die  where Bond asks for a bottle of Bollinger entering his hotel. In the 1985 film A View to a Kill James Bond notes that his champagne is ‘Bollinger 1975.’

Bollinger produces a great range of Champagnes and is probably best known for their ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne that is Pinot Noir dominant and includes reserve wines that are up to fifteen years of age. I loved the new NV Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne (WWB, 91) which has a great sense of mouthfeel and great musty and biscuit flavors with light citrus components. Bollinger has gained a sterling reputation for their ‘La Grand Annee’ wines and I have certainly enjoyed many of these over the past few decades. Their new release, the 2012 Bollinger ‘La Grande Annee’ Champagne (WWB, 94) is dense and rich, with gorgeous layers of citrus fruits and a soft texture. Learn more about this famed Champagne house at https://www.champagne-bollinger.com Here are the beautiful new releases by Champagne Bollinger.

NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Champagne- The NV ‘Special Cuvee’ by Bollinger starts off with ripe Gala apple and orange blossom tones that combine with biscuit and melon undertones on the nose. The palate has great freshness and a soft texture. Layers of baking spices and sourdough bread collide with minerals and lemon zest flavors. The length and mouthfeel is really great here, as this beautiful wine is best enjoyed over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2012 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grande Annee’ Champagne- The 2012 ‘La Grand Annee’ is a seriously good wine that has massive cellaring potential. Marzipan with hints of nutmeg and brioche offer their place on the bouquet. The silky mousse really entices as layers of kumquat zest and Challah bread collide with minerals, smoke and lovely green apple tones on the palate. The length and elegance of this wine is really great, as is the lovely sense of texture. Long and generous, this has the richness and laser-like minerality to cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2035- 94

Chehalem

Focused on high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Ribbon Ridge AVA in the Willamette Valley, Chehalem is one of the pioneering wineries of Oregon, first planting their Ridgecrest Vineyard in 1980 by Chehalem Founder Harry Peterson-Nedry. March forward a decade later, their first Pinot Noir was created. Three years later Bill Stoller joined Harry in the winery operation and later planted a vineyard on his family farmlands at the southern end of the Dundee Hills. Two years later Chehalem purchased Corral Creek, the vineyard surrounding the winery, in 1995. It became the third estate vineyard sourced for Chehalem wines.

A few years back Bill Stoller purchased Harry’s stake in Chehalem. The new wines by Chehalem had marvelous finesse and tension. One of the top Rose wines out of Oregon, the 2019 Chehalem ‘Three Vineyard’ Rose (WWB, 90) has really good earthy tones and shows really good acidity and range. Even better was the 2017  Chehalem ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which is dense, chewy and has lovely cellaring potential. Learn more about this historic Oregon winery at chehalemwines.com Here are the great new release wines by Chehalem. 

2019 Chehalem Rose- The 2019 Chehalem Rose shows high-toned red raspberry and Yakima cherry tones alongside damp earthy accents that build in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a good degree of acidity alongside lighter red fruit flavors, with damp earthy tones. Enjoy this in its youth. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2018 Chehalem ‘Inox’ Chardonnay- This unoaked bottling opens with pretty kiwi and nectarine rind with peat moss tones that round out the nose. The palate has great freshness and verve, with beautiful length. Enjoy this in its youth while the freshness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Chehalem Pinot Noir- The 2018 Chehalem Pinot Noir was sourced from multiple sites throughout the Willamette Valley. On the nose this shows layers of dark and red currants that mingle with suggestions of peat moss and baking spices that all take shape in the glass. The palate is juicy, with gobs of acidity and lovely earthy tones that round out this exceptional entry level bottling. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 Chehalem ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- This limited production bottling opens with a perfumed core of dark fruits with damp earth undertones that all take shape on the nose. The palate has a great texture with underbrush and forest floor undertones that combine with the wild blackberry and huckleberry flavors. Really good right now, this has some great cellaring potential ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2018 Chehalem ‘Corral Creek Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Corral Creek Vineyard’ is located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA and was first planted in 1983. Pretty rose petal and blackberry pie aromas combine with the earthy undertones on the nose. The freshness and weight of the wine is fantastic, as layers of black fruits combine with a light dusting of salinity and peat moss tones on the palate. Enjoy this expressive wine over the next decade. Drink 2020-2033- 92

Gorman Winery

A longstanding Woodinville winery, Gorman is founded by Chris Gorman who began his winery shortly after graduating from college in 1991. Before starting he spent 3 years working for a small Italian importer which carefully trained his palate. During that time Chris traveled extensively in the wine areas of Italy, Spain and Germany and finally started his winery in 2002. The winery has been a small operation, crafting consistently good wines from the Columbia Valley. Currently producing roughly 8,000 cases a year Chris focuses on the terroir from Red Mountain and works with great vineyards such as Kiona, Shaw and many others. They also make an excellent Chardonnay called their ‘Big Sissy.’

It has been several years since I had tasted the new Gorman lineup and I was really impressed across the board. The wines came from warm vintages, 2017 and 2018. I love the 2018 Gorman ‘The Devil You Don’t Know’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which artfully combines Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre to create a very pretty but full-bodied effort. Even better was the sinfully good 2017 Gorman ‘The Bully’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) which is seamless, elegant and full of verve. This beautiful effort has a long way to go in the cellar. Learn more about these fantastic new wines at gormanwinery.com. Here are the great new wines by Chris Gorman and his Gorman Winery. 

2018 Gorman ‘Zachary’s Ladder’ Red Wine- The 2018 Zachary’s Ladder is a great blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Syrah, with 7% Petit Verdot. The palate is plush, delivering beautiful black fruits that collide with minerals, tar and shades of milk chocolate covered red cherry. With light sagebrush undertones, this is really nice wine to enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Gorman ‘The Devil You Know’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘The Devil You Know’ is a proprietary blend of Bordeaux varietals all sourced from the Kiona, Obelisco, Shaw, and Lonesome Spring Vineyards. Dark once in the glass, the gorgeous core of dark fruits arouse the senses aromatically, with thyme and sagebrush accents rounding out the nose. The palate is elegant and well-rounded with medium to full-bodied blackberry, kirsch and sagebrush tones with shades of mocha and tar. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2018 Gorman ‘The Devil You Don’t Know’ Red Wine- The Gorman ‘The Devil You Don’t Know’ is a gorgeous new wine that blends Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre all aged in American oak. The blend works wonders as downright delicious red and dark fruits collide, with shades of coffee grounds, with pipe tobacco and orange rind accents. The combination of acidiity, weight and length all come together beautifully. This is great wine to enjoy now, but has another eight to ten years ahead of it. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2017 Gorman ‘The Bully’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Gorman ‘The Bully’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome new release comprised of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Petit Verdot that aged in 90% new French oak before bottling. The earthy aromatics entice, with blackberry compote, mocha and tar tones all taking shape in the glass. The palate is soft and round, with a seamless texture. Layers of boysenberry cordial, sagebrush and Turkish coffee all meld nicely on the palate. Gorgeous in its youth, this beautiful wine has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2018 Gorman ‘Evil Twin’ Red Wine- The ‘Evil Twin’ is a Provencale style wine comprised of 75% Syrah with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon all sourced from the Red Mountain AVA. Fresh blueberry and thyme aromas combine with black tea and black licorice tones on the nose. The palate is plush and seriously good, as bright, lip-smacking acidity greets you. A light dusting of salinity falls upon the core of dark fruits and tobacco leaf tones on the palate. Gorgeous now, the ‘Evil Twin’ will enjoy at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2020- 92

2017 Gorman ‘The Pixie’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘The Pixie’ Syrah is sourced from the Kiona, End of the Road Ranch, and Klipsun Vineyards. Shades of venison and bulls blood combine with the core of red fruits, smoke and citrus rind accents on this beautiful bouquet. The palate is plush, giving off a soft texture. Layers of red and dark fruits mingle with coffee grounds, kumquat zest and smoky tones on the palate. With great length and elegance, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Beaulieu Vineyard

A historic Napa estate, Beaulieu Vineyard dates back to 1900, when Georges de Latour's wife, Fernande, first laid eyes on the land that would become their original Rutherford vineyard, she named it "beau lieu," or "beautiful place." De Latour saw the potential of the land and sold his thriving cream of tartar business, purchasing the four-acre ranch and later founding Beaulieu Vineyard.  I have long enjoyed visiting the BV Reserve Room — one of the great locations to try some of the best wines in Napa. I’ve admired these wines back to the early and mid-1990s as I’ve found them to age remarkably well. Particularly the 1995 and 1996 ‘Georges de Latour’ are iconic, age worthy Napa wines.  At the helm is Trevor Durling, who took over a few years back for legendary winemaker Jeffrey Stambor. Originally from Sonoma County, Trevor has a degree in viticulture and enology from the esteemed University of California, Davis.

An outstanding value, the 2017 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Rutherford’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 91) has great richness and tension with good cellaring potential. This is a seriously good wine at a great price. Do not miss out on the gorgeous 2016 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Georges de Latour’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which has massive cellaring potential and will reward for many decades to come. Elegant and rich, this is nothing short of a sensational new release. Learn more about these beautiful new wines at https://www.bvwines.com Here are the new releases by BV.

2018 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay- Layers of orchard fruits collide with toasty oak and minerals on the palate. Enjoy this lighter style of Chardonnay in the near future. Drink 2020-2024- 89

2017 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot- The 2017 Beaulieu Vineyard Merlot takes the lad with anise and ripe red cherry  that are woven together with baking spices on the nose. The palate is soft and elegant with a generous mouthfeel. Layers of chocolate covered red cherry, cigar box and anise flavors combine with the dusty terroir tones on the palate. Showing good length, this beautiful new Merlot will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2028- 90

2017 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows rich mocha and anise aromatic tones that mingle with suggestions of spicebox and shades of violets that take shape in the glass. The palate shows great freshness and tension with layers of dark fruits and mocha tones that combine with coffee grounds and a good vein of tension. Layered and showing good length, this great value new wine will cellar well for the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 90

2017 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Rutherford’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Rutherford’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous new wine by Beaulieu Vineyard and the talented Trevor Durling. Anise and loamy terroir combine with shades of mocha and tar on this evocative nose. The palate shows good weight and texture as layers of dark fruits meld with anise, tar and Turkish coffee. Fresh and showing a nice sense of depth, this great new Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Tapestry’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Tapestry’ by Beaulieu Vineyard is a sensational blend that artfully captures each working part. A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with small portions Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this opens with bright red fruit aromas that meld with suggestions of baking spices, red bell pepper and chocolate that all mingle in the glass. The palate is beautifully textured with layers of loganberry preserves, chocolate, sagebrush and herbal undertones. Sensational to enjoy in its youth, the 2017 ‘Tapestry’ will enjoy a long life ahead of him. Drink 2020-2038- 93

2016 Beaulieu Vineyard ‘Georges de Latour’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The downright thrilling new 2016 ‘Georges de Latour’ is nothing short of a masterpiece by superstar winemaker Trevor Durling. Needing a two hour decant to fully evolve, this beautiful wine slowly begins to unveil black tea and Asian spices that meld with rich dark currants, cigar ash and dusty terroir that show their appeal. The palate is plush, wonderfully dense, as the strong vein of tension races through the core of chocolate covered dark cherry, mocha and creme de cassis flavors, with graphite and earthy undertones also brilliantly singing in unison. A complete wine, and showing a fantastic sense of freshness, weight and elegance, this gorgeous effort will enjoy an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 96

La Jota

Wines with serious terroir, La Jota is a storied Howell Mountain property that has roots back to the nineteenth century. For those who have never visited this storied estate, this is a really special property perched high above the Napa valley floor. La Jota was originally founded in the 1890s by Fredrich Hess, an immigrant from Switzerland. Over time these wines received considerable accolades. Intriguingly they even received a gold medal for their wine at the World’s Fair of 1904 in St. Louis. La Jota wines are made from low yielding vines planted amongst 28 acres. The high altitude keeps the freshness and minerality to the wine that remains even in warmer vintages like 2016. 

At the vineyard, vines are planted on volcanic soils at relatively high elevation which gives the red wines excellent richness and aging potential. The terroir of Howell Mountain also has colder temperatures at night, compared to the Napa Valley floor -- which leads to lower yields than the floor and also smaller but richly concentrated fruit. Being at higher elevation also protects the fruit from the intense temperatures sometimes experienced on the Napa floor. 

A man needing no introduction, head winemaker, Christopher Carpenter has a B.A. in biology, as well as an M.B.A. in international business. After officially falling in love with wine, Carpenter completed the illustrious masters of viticulture and enology program at UC Davis. He took over as head winemaker at La Jota in 2005. HIs new wines were just incredible across the board. La Jota crafts some of the best Cabernet Franc wines in Napa, and this years release, the 2016 La Jota Cabernet Franc (WWB, 95) is no exception as this bottling shows a silky mouthfeel and polished texture that delights with its herbal tones and dark fruit core.  I was totally blown way with the 2016 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) has is massive, well-structured and decadent. This is a magical wine that will cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about these special wines at https://www.lajotavineyardco.com Here are the gorgeous new wines by La Jota.

2016 La Jota Cabernet Franc-The 2016 La Jota Cabernet Franc is one of the best of its kind in the Napa Valley. On the nose there are pretty aromatics of potpourri and lavender that collide with the deep core of dark fruits and coffee ground undertones that mingle in the glass. The palate has a wonderful brightness with silky tannins and a soft mouthfeel. Blackberry cordial, Turkish coffee and shades of blueberry pie give this plenty of exotic appeal. The long finish lingers. A complete wine, the 2016 La Jota Cabernet Franc will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2045- 95

2016 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from Howell Mountain, the 2016 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon is a compelling blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Malbec with small portions Merlot and Petit Verdot. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more hedonistic delight. Blackberry compote, mocha, tar, anise and creme de cassis aromatics all sing in unison in the glass. The palate has wonderful weight and density, while being exceedingly light on its feet. The elegance mid-palate is exceptional. Creosote and blackberry pie with shades of dark chocolate shavings, leather and pipe tobacco all mingle together on the palate. A delight to savor in its youth, try to resist this beautiful wine for at least another two years. Drink 2022-2045- 96

2016 La Jota Merlot- Sourced from their high elevation vineyard on Howell Mountain, the  2016 La Jota Merlot is an intriguing blend of 90% Merlot, 5.5% Petit Verdot with 4.5% Tannat. Toasty oak wraps around a core of roasted figs, mocha, dusty terroir and red bell pepper that are all artfully woven together in the glass. The freshness and balance on the mid-palate really entices as layers of cocoa powder covered red cherry, cigar box and shades of wild blackberry preserves with espresso bean all come together marvelously. This is seriously elegant stuff. Singing even in its youth, the 2016 La Jota Merlot will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2016 La Jota ‘W.S. Keyes Vineyard’ Merlot- A vineyard with some serious history, Winfield S. Keyes first planted grapes in this small vineyard in 1888, as the rocky soils reminded him of his visits to the Mediterranean islands near Sicily. The 2016 ‘W.S. Keyes Vineyard’ Merlot shows lovely tar and cigar ash tones with boysenberry preserves and dense mocha aromatics that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft and generous, with a silky mouthfeel. The seamless quality of the wine as well as varietal typicity, truly shines. Broad-shouldered, viscous and intense, yet elegant, this beautiful wine is absolutely singing in its youth and has a long life ahead of it. Try to resist this stunning Merlot for at least two more years. Drink 2022-2045- 96

Instagram Live This Week

Friends,

It is my great pleasure to introduce the talented guests I am fortunate enough to host for this week’s Instagram Live (all times Pacific). Starting Thursday at Noon we begin with storied Bordeaux house Chateau Phelan-Segur and managing director Veronique Dausse as we taste a thrilling vertical of these beautiful wines back to the 2005 vintage. Then at 4PM we join the talented Renee Ary of Duckhorn Vineyards as we taste a beautiful range of her new releases. At 5PM we join storied Champagne house Bollinger and their US Director, Valerie McDaniel, as we visit their NV Champagne, their NV Rose and their brand new 2012 ‘Grand Annee’ Champagne.

Friday will be action packed starting at 2PM we join storied Napa house Smith-Madrone as we taste their new wines, followed by famed Walla Walla outpost Abeja and the husband/wife winemaking tandem Dan and Amy Wampfler, who craft one of the best overall lineups in the state. At 4PM it is my honor to talk about racial inequality in the wine industry with Julia Coney, who recently founded the Black Wine Professionals which highlights the many talents of black men and women in our wine industry. It will be a really thrilling week at WWB for IG Live and hope to see you all virtually 🍷🔥

Evening Land

One of the famed wineries in the Willamette Valley, Evening Land has helped the region achieve initial success with their famed Chardonnay wines. Their iconic Seven Springs Vineyard produces some of the great Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay bottlings of Oregon. First planted in 1984, the Seven Springs Vineyard is one of the great historic vineyards in the Pacific Northwest. Planted with eastern exposure, Seven Springs Vineyard fruit experiences an abundance of morning sunlight and also experiences cool breezes in from the Pacific Ocean through the Van Duzer Corridor. The combination of heat and cool breezes affords the fruit to slowly ripen. Celebrity somm, Rajat Parr and Sasha Moorman head the winemaking team at Evening Land. They form what is truly one of the best teams in the state.

Evening Land has an incredibly scenic location that is a must visit for any serious collector of Oregon Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. An amazing effort, the 2015 Evening Land ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 94) is simply stunning and is already starting to show the tertiary tones. I was totally blown away with their 2017 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) which is truly one of the best Chardonnays made from Oregon. The feeling of terroir and earthy tones settling in really makes this something special. Learn more about Evening Land at https://www.eveninglandvineyards.com Here are the amazing new release wines by Evening Land.

2015 Evening Land ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- This is the first Sparkling Wine that Evening Land has crafted. Sourced from the famed ‘Seven Springs Vineyard’ this has marvelous tertiary aromatics right away with the wild mushroom and salted Marcona almond tones alongside a core of green apple and lemon zest that all meld together in the glass. The palate is marvelously astringent with high-toned citrus rind and kumquat flavors that connect with the nutmeg infused sourdough bread, wild mushroom and Gravenstein apple undertones. Highly complex, yet refreshing, this one of a kind, Chardonnay Sparkling Wine is showing marvelously now and will cellar for a long time to come. Drink 2020-2035- 94 

2017 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay is a superb new bottling from this great Oregon estate. On the nose this takes on poached pear and shades of starfruit and wild mushroom that all take shape in the glass. Toasty brioche and lemon zest come together with vanilla cream, wet stone and damp earth tones on the palate. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Chardonany- The 2017 ‘La Source’ Chardonnay is a gorgeous effort from this exciting vintage for Chardonnay. The gorgeous flinty tones catch you by surprise as layers of orchard fruits and lemon zest come together aromatically. The freshness of the wine is gorgeous, as is the stony terroir that elevates the bright orchard fruits, as damp earthy tones also are unveiled. Fantastic to savor in its youth, the gorgeous ‘La Source’ will cellar well for another ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Evening Land ‘Sumum’ Chardonnay-  The 2017 ‘Summum’ was sourced from fourteen rows of vines in the ‘Seven Springs Vineyard’ as this name means ‘upmost’ in Latin. Aged in a combination of French oak puncheons and stainless steel, the ‘Summum’ opens with nutmeg infused brioche and roasted hazelnut tones that combine with Pink Lady apple and shades of damp earth and wet stones that take shape in the glass. The palate shows incredible verve and texture with a light dusting of salinity that runs through the wine. The long finish lingers as this scintillating new Chardonnay will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2018 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Gamay- One of the great Gamay wines made in North America, the 2018 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Gamay shows pretty red rose petals and strawberry soda aromatics that meld with the earthy undertones of the wine. The palate shows a vibrant sense of minerality and silky mouthfeel. Mouth-watering acidity and bright red fruits dance with blood orange zest and shades of bulls blood and cloves on the palate. Seriously good to enjoy in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2017 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this famed Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard, the 2017 ‘Seven Springs’ Pinot Noir shows off wonderful aromatic range from red currants to shades of cranberry and wild mushroom with orange zest that all come together in the glass. While not a big wine, the balance here and soft texture really impresses. Layers of red fruits mingle with peat moss and exotic spices on the palate. Long and round, with very soft tannins, this beautiful Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Pinot Noir is a thrilling new bottling from this awesome Oregon estate. Sourced from the windy and rocky crest of the vineyard, the ‘La Source’ opens with layers of damp earth that combine with teaberry and cran-orange aromatics that all take shape in the glass. The palate has incredible texture and verve, with a strong salinity and vein of tension that runs through the core of red fruits and damp earthy tones. Seductive and enticing with its serious range and minerality, the 2017 ‘La Source’ Pinot Noir will have a long life ahead of it. Enjoy this fantastic bottling over the next fifteen to twenty years. Be sure to give this a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2038- 94

2017 Evening Land ‘Anden’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Anden’ Pinot Noir by Evening Land is a simply magical new bottling. Translucent in the glass, the ‘Anden’ shows intense Asian spices that mingle with cinnamon and clove tones alongside a bright core of red fruits and citrus rind accents on the nose. The palate is fresh, elegant and beautifully textured. Bright guava and pomegranate seed flavors combine with shades of blood orange zest and peat moss tones on the palate. Vibrant and highly youthful, this stunning wine will have a long life ahead of it in the celalr. Drink 2020-2040- 95

Toil Oregon Vertical Tasting

Toil Oregon Vertical Tasing 

It was a tasting to remember as I sat across from superstar winemaker Chris Figgins last fall. Chris introduced me to his new line of single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines, as we traded stores about our recent travels and his exciting vineyard project in Oregon. Toil Oregon was a brilliant idea by Chris to challenge himself and craft singular Oregon Chardonnay, Rose and Pinot Noir. I mention his Rose not as an afterthought but what has consistently been one of the top Rose wines in the Pacific Northwest and after many years of careful planning Toil Oregon Chris planted his estate vineyard in 2016 — a 42-acre parcel in the Chehalem Mountains AVA of Willamette Valley. The vineyard is set at 550–700 feet on a convex hilltop draped with rocky Jory and Saum soils. 

Due to Covid-19 Chris and I weren’t able to taste his Toil wines together. As I sat at my usual tasting location, I took my time with each wine. The first thing I thought to myself was ‘why didn’t Chris make Chardonnay sooner?’ 2016 was the first vintage that he made Toil Chardonnay. Toil Chardonnay is a classic Oregon style, with very little new oak (usually around 20-35%) and generally a short amount of time in barrel (11 months). Despite the limited oak contact, these wines have great mouthfeel and show vibrant acidity and finesse. Each of the three vintages (2016-18) showed marvelously (all WWB, 93).

The Pinot Noirs by Toil have been getting better and better. I was absolutely blown away with my tasting of the 2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (WWB, 95). This wine is very pretty and has marvelous texture, length and bright red fruits. It is downright sensational now and will provide drinking enjoyment for the next fifteen plus years. The 2016 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) is magical right now in its youth, showing a bit more depth and concentration than the 2017 bottling, as this is geared slightly more towards weight but still has a great veil of acidity. Learn more about these fabulous wines at toiloregon.com. Here are my tasting notes from a sensational vertical tasting of Toil Oregon.

Toil Oregon Chardonnay 

2016 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- The 2016 Toil Chardonnay is a spectacular effort at now four years of age. Light flinty and nutty tones combine with shades of nutmeg infused Challah bread and Pink Lady apple on the nose. The palate is beautifully viscous with gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Bright melon fruit combine with starfruit, Pazzaz apple and sourdough bread with lemon rind tones all meld together on the palate. This finishes long with minerals and vanilla cream. A long-ager, this has more than a decade to go. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- The 2017 Toil Chardonnay is gorgeous now a year after release. Shades of toasted hazelnuts mingle with honeydew melon, wet stone and green apples tones on the nose. The palate has great weight and freshness with layers of vanilla cream and lemon infused sourdough bread with minerals and a light dusting of salinity. Showing really good weight and freshness, this beautiful wine has more than a decade to go. This may show a touch more tension than the ’16 and certainly the ’18 bottling — but is every bit as good as both. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2018 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- This is now the second time in several months I have tried the 2018 Toil Chardonnay. Aged for eleven months in 27% new French oak, right away you are drawn to the layers of lemon zest and sourdough bread that mingle with Japanese pear and nutty aromatic tones that all take shape in the glass. On the attack there is a great sense of minerality and weight, with ripe melon tones that mingle with ripe pear, minerals and shades of toasted hazelnuts. This shows slightly more weight than 2016 and 2017 bottlings. Ripe and generous with wonderful weight and tension, the gorgeous 2018 Toil Chardonnay will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2032- 93

Toil Oregon Pinot Noir

2012 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2012 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir is beautifully showcasing this classic vintage in Oregon. Right now the earthy tones on the nose are really nice, as shades of pomegranate seed and ripe red raspberry collide with orange rind undertones. The palate shows good freshness and a wonderful sense of acidity. Layers of guava, blood orange zest, forest floor and minerals connect momentum on the palate. While this may not possess the weight of other vintages, this exudes elegance. The long finish lingers as this beautiful wine still has at least a decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2014 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2014 Toil Pinot Noir takes on an earthier tone than many of the others, perhaps a hybrid between 2012 and 2016? Either way the wine is sinful good at the six year mark. Once on the nose there are generous dark and red fruits that collide with suggestions of cinnamon sticks, forest floor and wild mushroom tones that all sing in harmony. The palate has a good degree of freshness and weight, with a great acid backbone and light tannins that line the wild blackberry, peat moss, blood orange and red cherry candy flavors. The length and wonderful sense of texture rings true as the 2014 Toil Pinot Noir has plenty of life left. Be sure to give this an hour decant if enjoying in this midway phase. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2015 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2015 Toil Pinot Noir is a gorgeous showing now at the five year mark. Aged for 12 months (72% Neutral French Oak) and needing an hour in the decanter to fully evolve, the wine slowly unveils layers of tart red fruits with shades of blood orange and peat moss that all take shape in the glass. The palate is silky smooth with a soft, downright voluptuous mouthfeel. Ripe layers of red currants meld with boysenberry cobbler, forest floor and shades of black truffle crudo with a hint of cola that comes on after more than an hour in the decanter. A complete wine, this is singing now and will continue to gracefully evolve for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2016 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2016 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir is showing a slightly darker fruit profile than the 2015 edition. Needing a one hour decant, the 2016 Toil Pinot Noir reveals bright citrus rind tones and earthy accents that combine with the core of dark fruits, especially blackberry compote that all meld in the glass. The palate shows a great degree of freshness under a light veil of salinity. Layers of bright red and dark fruits meld with blood orange zest, peat moss and damp earth on the palate. The combination of acidity and richness here is seriously good as this beautiful wine has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2036- 94

2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir is absolutely singing even in its youth. Shades of blood orange zest and peat moss combine with the core of red fruits on the nose. The palate is vibrant showing a great combination of tension and weight. This has a prettier fruit profile certainly than the 2015 edition, with pomegranate seed and Tangerine zest that mingle with minerals and the earthy undertones of the wine. This is highly elegant Pinot Noir. Bright and very pretty now at the three year mark, the 2017 Toil Pinot Noir will show beautifully for two decades. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2018 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- This is the second time I have tasted the 2018 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir. This warm vintage wine is simply stunning to savor in its you as this was aged for eleven months in 32% new French oak prior to bottling. Ripe red fruits dance with peat moss tones and citrus rind on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a great sense of acidity and weight.  The weight really shows up here as this warm vintage wine is sensational to enjoy right now but will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2035- 94

Château Suduiraut Vertical Tasting

As we gazed into the lineup of golden bottles, we had our ideas of what vintages would potentially show the best. We were definitely in for some surprises. A Sauternes estate with a storied past, Château Suduiraut is one of the top houses in the region. Located in the commune of Preignac, Suduiraut has vineyards that border Château D’Yquem. The property dates back to the 15th century. Sadly only one wing remains from the original chateau which was destroyed by the Duc d`Eperon in the 16th century. The present château was built in the 17th century by the Suduiraut family, who also commissioned a spectacular garden designed by Le Nôtre. Suduiraut was classified as a 1er Cru Classe in 1855. While some might contend that from 1940-1960 quality decreased, it is clear that the quality has been consistently good since 1992 when Château Suduiraut was purchased by the insurance group AXA which also owns Château Pichon-Longueville in Pauillac and Château Petit-Village in Pomerol.

Château Suduiraut's 90 hectares of vineyards are planted with 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are harvested in several "tries" and are fermented in 50-hectolitre stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged in small barriques (33% new) for 24 months. Suduiraut's winemaker Pierre Montégut has been remarkably consistent since taking the helm. I have many of these wines in my personal collection and have been been absolutely enamored by wines this house has produced from older vintages like 1988, 2001, 2003, and 2005.

During this special vertical tasting there were some surprises. I was particularly impressed with the 2005 Château Suduiraut (WWB, 97) which is a remarkable wine that is truly one of the finest of the vintage. The sense of balance here is nothing short of incredible. The 2006 Château Suduiraut (WWB, 93) was taken from a very challenging vintage and shows very differently than the ’05 but has really good texture and more nutty, tertiary tones. This wine is a joy to savor at this stage in its development. My revisits to the gorgeous 2007 and 2011 Château Suduirauts (both WWB, 95) did not disappoint. I love the unctuous character of the ’07 and the remarkable range of the ’11. Both wines really showcase these magical vintages in Sauternes. Learn more about this famed Château at www.suduiraut.com Here are my tasting notes from a beautiful vertical tasting of Château Suduiraut.

2005 Château Suduiraut- Taken from this downright awesome vintage in Sauternes, the 2005 Château Suduiraut shows ripe tropical fruits that meld with bananas foster and vanilla creme flavors. The palate is seamless and seductive, showing a great combination of weight, verve, and length. The texture is downright pillowy. Marzipan and Meyer lemon creme brulee mingle with apricots and roasted pineapple tones on the palate. The massive length is truly thrilling. Complex and downright delicious to savor right now, the 2005 Château Suduiraut is a resounding success that is singing right now an will continue to belt for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2040- 97



2006 Château Suduiraut- A strong showing from a challenging vintage, the 2006 Château Suduiraut shows a bit less richness and complexity on the nose than the ’05 or ’07 with beeswax and vanilla creme brûlée tones dominating. The palate is silky smooth, showing a wonderful sense of texture and weight. Layers of butterscotch and ripe pineapple meld with apple pie and mango flavors. Interestingly this is starting to show Macadamia nut and damp earth undertones as the 2006 Suduiraut is peaking now and will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2027- 93

2007 Château Suduiraut- The 2007 Château Suduiraut is a gorgeous effort that is showing beautifully right now. Candied ginger and cardamom with ripe pineapple and butterscotch fill the nose. Once on the attack you are entrenched by the silky smooth texture as this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Meyer lemon creme brûlée, orange marmalade and Golden Delicious apple, baking spices, apricot and mango flavors. Showing great weight, length and poise, this gorgeous 2007 Suduiraut is really enjoyable now and will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2011 Château Suduiraut- The 2011 Château Suduiraut is a stunning effort at now the nine year mark. Right away you are enticed by the layers of wild mushroom aromatics and shades of tropical fruits that are woven together with candied ginger. The palate has a wonderful vein of tension and salinity with beautiful ripe pineapple and mango flavors that collide with vanilla creme brûlée and apricot jelly. Showing wonderful length, richness and tension, this beautiful, elegant wine is slowly starting to hit its stride and has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2014 Château Suduiraut- Needing an hour of air to be fully aroused, the 2014 Château Suduiraut shows gorgeous apple pie and roasted pineapple that combine with ripe mango on the nose. The palate has great freshness with a light dusting of salinity. Layers of pineapple upside-down cake and Meyer lemon creme brûlée mingle with a great sense of mouth-watering acidity. While not massive, this elegant style of Sauternes will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it and is surprisingly gratify to savor in its youth. Drink 2022-2040- 94

2015 Château Suduiraut- Shades of bananas foster and creme brûlée mingle with clove infused apricot jam and shades of wild mushroom that all take shape in the glass. The seamless texture is truly outstanding as layers of vanilla creme brulee, roasted pineapple, passion fruit and butterscotch with the tropical fruit tones really shining brightly. The feeling of viscosity is downright awesome. Gorgeous with its vein of tension and weight, the 2015 Château Suduiraut will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2016 Château Suduiraut- The 2016 Château Suduiraut is a gorgeous effort that really needs several years of bottle age. Following a long decant the wine slowly yields layers of quince jelly and shades of roasted pineapple with marzipan tones connect aromatically. The palate has a silky texture with a seamless effect. While not particularly dense in terms of botrytis, the sense of elegance and the gorgeous sense of finesse and length really drives this beautiful wine. Try to resist this stunner for at least a few years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Sparkman Cellars

A longtime Woodinville stalwart, Sparkman Cellars is a consistently good producer of a huge range of wines — from crisp Rose to deep and layered Cabernet Sauvignon. Founded by some great people in wine, Chris and Kelly Sparkman, Chris has a diverse background formerly working in the Peace Corps and then as well as some top fine dining restaurants in Seattle. They both made a massive leap of faith in 2004 by starting Sparkman Cellars and the rest has been history. Sparkman sources from some of the best vineyards in the state including the Boushey, Klipsun, Sagemoor and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards.

Linn Scott has served as winemaker for many years now and has a really great new lineup. I loved the 2017 Sparkman Cellars ‘Wonderland’ Grenache (WWB, 93) which has amazing depth and a silky, plush texture.  Just as good is his 2016 Sparkman Cellars ‘Evermore’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 93) which has a lovely seamless texture and is loaded with rich dark fruits. Learn more about this outstanding producer at http://www.sparkmancellars.com/. Here are the great new wines by Sparkman Cellars.

2019 Sparkman Cellars ‘This Old Porch’ Rose- The 2019 ‘This Old Porch’ Rose shows light rose petal and red cherry candy aromas that build in the glass. The freshness imparted is really good, as delicate red fruits dance with shades of cloves and lemon zest on the palate. Lithe and refreshing, albeit lacking a bit of richness, enjoy this excellent new Rose in the short-term. Drink 2020-2023- 89

2019 Sparkman Cellars ‘Pearl’ Sauvignon Blanc- The ‘Pearl’ Sauvignon Blanc opens with bright green apple and green papaya aromatics that build in the glass. The soft texture and lovely viscosity of the wine both impress, creating a seamless effect mid-palate. Wonderful to enjoy in its youth, the ‘Pearl’ will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 Sparkman Cellars ‘Lumiere’ Chardonnay- The ‘Lumiere’ shows bright pear and starfruit aromas that combine with the vanilla creamy accents that all take shape in the glass. The palate is exceedingly well-structured, with an unctuous mouthfeel and a soft texture. With bright acidity, this beautiful wine will cellar well for another seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Sparkman Cellars ‘Wonderland’ Grenache- The nose offers plenty of intrigue with its wonderful range from blood orange zest to red cherry candy and damp earth undertones that all mingle nicely together. The palate is medium to full-bodied with a gorgeous texture. Red cherry pie and shades of wild strawberry and guava mingle with minerals and sagebrush tones. This is truly good in its youth and will continue to provide drinking enjoyment for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2017 Sparkman Cellars ‘Outlaw’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Outlaw’ shows pretty red rose petals and bright Bing cherry with tobacco leaf accents on this delightful nose. The palate is soft and inviting with rich chocolate covered cherry, sagebrush and shades of boysenberry pie. Fantastic to savor now, with good poise and viscosity, I can see this cellaring well over the next decade or more. This has a very cool Right bank feel for Washington Merlot. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Sparkman Cellars ‘Yonder’ Cabernet Franc- The ‘Yonder’ Cabernet Franc shows the delightful herbal accents on the bouquet alongside suggestions of cassis and red cherry candy that all mingle together in the glass. The palate is plush, round and generous with good acidity and rich red and dark fruit flavors with shades of milk chocolate. This is seriously good stuff that is best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Sparkman Cellars ‘Rainmaker’Cabernet Sauvignon- The aptly named ‘Rainmaker’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a perfect rich wine to cozy up to on a cold and wet winter’s day.The mocha and tar aromas connect with the rich dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is plush and generous with loads of dark fruits and pipe tobacco. Soft, with a silky texture, the ‘Rainmaker’ will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Sparkman Cellars ‘Holler’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Holler’ Cabernet Sauvignon opens with deep dark currant aromas that meld with sandalwood and shades of black raspberry cordial that all take shape in the glass. The palate is medium to full-bodied, as the light tannins frame a deep core of dark fruits. Refined and elegant, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Sparkman Cellars ‘Evermore’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Evermore’ is another outstanding bottling from this fantastic Woodinville producer. Made from old vine Cabernet Sauvignon from the Klipsun and Dionysus Vineyards, the ‘Evermore’ starts off with aromatics of mocha, tar and shades of black licorice that take shape in the glass. The palate has great balance and purity of fruit. With good length and elegance, showing off its core of blackberry compote and milk chocolate with sagebrush tones, the 2016 ‘Evermore’ will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Sparkman Cellars ‘Preposterous’ Malbec- The ‘Preposterous’ Malbec opens with an intoxicating bouquet of creme de cassis, mocha and blueberry pie with a light dusting of white pepper that all take shape in the glass. Soft, round and plush, the silky texture entices, as does the massive core of dark and blue fruits. Seductive, yet nicely balanced, the ‘Preposterous’ Malbec is an impressive wine that has a long way to go. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2016 Sparkman Cellars ‘Rukus’ Syrah-Sourced from Red Mountain, this takes the lead with the smoky and earthy undertones that combine with the rich core of dark fruits on the nose. The palate has good freshness with a soft texture. Medium-bodied dark fruit flavors connect with the sagebrush and chocolate tones on the palate. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2016 Sparkman Cellars ‘Darkness’ Syrah- The 2016 ‘Darkness Syrah by Sparkman opens with really good aromatic range from red cherry candy to Hoisin sauce and bacon fat tones that all meld in the glass. The palate has good freshness and a seamless texture. Bright red fruits connect with the citrus rind and smoky undertones of the wine. Showing great verve, this is seriously good stuff that will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2027- 93