Stoller

Today we share one of the outstanding producers in the Willamette Valley. Stoller founder, Bill Stoller, has a degree in business and economics from Pacific University, as well as an MBA from Portland State University. In 1983, Bill co-founded Express Employment Professionals, currently the largest privately-held staffing company in the world, with more than 800 offices in three countries. Additionally, in 2001, he founded Xenium, a human resources outsource company. This business success has enabled Bill to pursue his passion of wine and to contribute to his community. Bill's most prominent civic commitment was to his alma mater, as the former chair of the Pacific University Board of Trustees.

Bill acquired his Willamette Valley family property from his cousin in 1993, and saw the potential with the terroir in place. He planted 10 acres each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 1995 and the winery now spans vineyard is the largest contiguous vineyard in Oregon's Dundee Hills. The property spans 400 acres, with 225 acres focused on growing vines at elevations ranging from 220 to 640 feet. Ten varietals are planted in this vineyard, including Viognier, Pinot Meunier and even Aligote. 

I loved the new wines by Stoller who are now making some great bubbles. The 2017 Stoller ‘Larue’s’ Brut Rose (OB, 91) is fresh and vibrant with good astringency. I adored the 2018 Stoller ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is big and burly with seriously good range. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at https://www.stollerfamilyestate.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Stoller. 

2017 Stoller ‘Larue’s’ Brut Rose- This pretty Rose sparkling wine shows white Rose petals and cranberry tones on the nose with shades of baking spices that all take shape in the glass. The palate shows a soft mouthfeel green melon and sour raspberry with shades of pink grapefruit water. Delightful to enjoy right now, this has another another decade to go. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2020 Stoller Rose- The 2020 Stoller Rose is an awesome new release. Right away the wine reveals watermelon and Pink Lady apple tones alongside orange blossom on this beautiful nose. The palate is fresh, vibrant and wonderfully textured. Very pretty red fruits dance with minerals, damp earth and orange rind tones. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2019 Stoller Pinot Noir- The 2019 Stoller Pinot Noir shows lighter red fruits with rose water a and a great earthy core on the palate that adds to the complexity. The length is really good in this outstanding value out of 2019. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2018 Stoller ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2018 Stoller ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay is a fantastic barrel selection wine that is showing already beautifully at the three year mark.  The nose shows hay and toasty brooch tones alongside lemon zest and marvelously salty undertones. The palate is soft and seamless, effortlessly gliding throughout the drinking experience. Fantastic and broad-shouldered now, this has at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Stoller ‘Elsie’s’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Elsie’s’ Chardonnay shows off toasty brioche tones with melon, wet stone and a whiff of salted hazelnut on this great nose. The palate shows a great mouthfeel and astringency with layers of salted orchard fruits, wet stone and nutty undertones. Fresh and vibrant, with good weight, this has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Stoller ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Stoller ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir is sourced from some of their older vines in their estate. The nose reveals black truffle shavings and exotic spices woven together with huckleberry and shades of blood orange zest that all meld in the glass. The palate is dense and chewy with a terrific mouthfeel and good sense of length. Dense dark fruits parade with minerals, smoke and peat moss tones. Inviting to savor in its youth, this has another fifteen years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Stoller ‘Nancy’s’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Nancy’s’ is named after Bill Stoller’s sister,  who grew up with four male siblings.  The palate is heady and refined with a great combination of red and dark fruits with tobacco leaf and a bright sense of minerality. The viscosity here is really good, as this generous style of Oregon Pinot Noir will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Stoller ‘Helen’s’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Helen’s’ shows a whiff of smoke aromatically, alongside wild blackberry and Bing cherry tones with damp earthy accents. The palate shows vibrant acidity with a good sense of mouthfeel. Layers of bright red and dark fruits parade with Mandarin orange rind and wild mushroom on the palate. This has a long journey ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 93

Chateau de Sales

I love Bordeaux houses with illustrious histories. Many might not know that Chateau de Sales has the largest vineyard holdings in Pomerol. Even more remarkable is that Chateau de Sales has been in the same family ownership since 1464.The actual chateau was created in the early 1600’s, which was usual for Pomerol at the time. The winery has a 48 hectare vineyard which was planted to 73% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc. I’ll most certainly look forward to a visit to this historic house later this year.

The family history here is remarkable and big changes began in the 1980s. From 1982 to 2017 Bruno de Lambert led Chateau de Sales, taking over for his father, Henri, who had managed for nearly 40 years. In 2017, when their uncle and father retired, the 14 direct cousins and co-owners of Château de Sales rallied round to take over the estate, with their parents’ approval. They appointed one of their own, Marine Treppoz, to chair the new company. At the same time, they recruited a Chief Executive Officer, Vincent Montigaud, to manage it. Originally from Libourne, he spent 23 years with Baron Philippe de Rothschild, including 16 years as managing director of Domaine de Baronarques.

Last year I was very impressed with a magnum from the 2006 vintage that I enjoyed from my personal collection. The wine was quite youthful and was a glorious wine from a challenging vintage. The new 2018 Chateau de Sales (OB, 92) has some awesome aging potential and really shouldn’t be touched for a few years. This will show off a great core of dark fruits alongside the classic Pomerol earthy tones. Learn more about this storied house at https://www.chateau-de-sales.com Here is my review of the 2018 Chateau de Sales.

2018 Chateau de Sales Pomerol- The 2018 Chateau de Sales is a gorgeous effort from this vintage. A blend of 69% Merlot with the remainder near equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, right away the wet stony tones entice aromatically, with dark currants and cedar tones also rounding out the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Layers of rich dark fruits mingle with graphite, tobacco leaf and coffee ground flavors. This has really good lift and length, as it is best enjoyed after another two to three years of bottle age. Drink 2024-2040- 92

St. Innocent

I love Oregon wines that show great quality and value. For my palate, St. Innocent has been some of the best value wines that you will find out of the Willamette Valley. Founded by Oregon Wine Pioneer, Mark Vlossak, these wines have serious poise and finesse, with extra time in the barrel. Mark has a longstanding history in the Oregon wine industry as the first single vineyard Pinot Noir made by Mark dates back to 1989 from the O’Connor vineyard. In 2006 Mark set up his winery at that same site of his first single vineyard wine, which is now named the Zenith Vineyard. Mark’s Pinots typically have a wonderful combination of elegance and richness. I’ve been sampling these wines for more than ten years and have found them to be one of the most consistent producers of Pinot Noir in Oregon. His last years releases were exceptional and this set of wines were even better.

Mark also makes some of the best Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc in Oregon. I adored his 2017 St. Innocent ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Blanc (OB, 94) which is rich and dense with a terrific mouthfeel and silky texture. This is new world Pinot Blanc at its finest. I loved his new 2017  St. Innocent ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which shows insanely good terroir and a very polished texture. I could go on and on about these beautiful wines that are so reasonably priced. But check these wines out on your own — I think you will be massively impressed with  their overall quality. Learn more about these awesome wines at https://stinnocentwine.com Here are the great new releases by St. Innocent. 

2017 St. Innocent ‘Fredom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Blanc- Consistently one of the great Pinot Blanc wines made in North America, this 2017 edition rivals anything I have tasted over the past year. The wine shows ripe peach and lychee tones alongside sweetened Pink Lady apple and smoky minerals on the palate. With a seamless texture and beautiful length, this stunning effort will cellar well over the next seven plus years. This is very Oregon meets Alsace. Drink 2021-2028- 94

2018 St. Innocent ‘Fredom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from Dijon clone 76 and 548 Chardonnay vines, this shows off salted orchard fruits alongside wet stone and smoky undertones on the nose. The palate is very soft and seamless with a wonderful sense of mouthfeel. Layers of pretty nectarine and Japanese pear mingle with minerals, brioche and wild mushroom on this complex palate. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 St. Innocent ‘Fredom Hill Vineyard, Cuvee Libertee’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Cuvee Libertee’ is entirely Dijonal clone Chardonnay that was barrel selected from the ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard.’ Baking spice infused Challah bread and Meyer lemon zest mingle with earthy and salty undertones on the nose. The palate is exceedingly refined with wonderful length and poise. There is an incredible sense of elegance here that lands this with the elite out of the Willamette Valley as rich orchard fruits parade with minerals, Macadamia nut and stony/salty terroir. Finishing exceedingly long, this has a very long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 95

2017 St. Innocent ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the foothills of the Coast Range, roughly ten miles from Salem, this wine utilizes Wadenswil and Pommard clonal plantings from 2004, as well as Dijon 777 clone from 2008. Salty and savory red fruits greet you aromatically with orange rind and peat moss tones. The palate is soft and beautifully textured. Rich red fruits parade with minerals seamlessly throughout. A complete masterpiece, this beautiful wine will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another ten years. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 St. Innocent ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, roughly ten miles from Salem. Mark Vlossak utilizes Pinot Noir plantings from the early 1980s in this outstanding wine. The dusting of volcanic earth entices alongside leather, peat moss and shades of blood orange zest on this evocative bouquet. The palate is soft and elegant with a silky mouthfeel. Bright red fruits drive this wine with orange rind and shades of forest floor also making their mark. This elegant Pinot Noir is great to consume now but will cellar well for another ten to fifteen years.  Drink 2021-2035- 93

2017 St. Innocent ‘Momtazi Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The famed ‘Momtazi Vineyard’ is farmed by Mo Momtazi, and was first planted more than 20 years ago. The vineyard utilizes a combination of volcanic and marine sedimentary soils, as this brilliant new 2017 Pinot Noir showcases lovely wet volcanic rocky tones on the palate, alongside guava, cran-orange and pomegranate seed flavors. Delightful in its youth, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 St. Innocent ‘Zenith Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Zenith Vineyard’ is the estate vineyard for St. Innocent and was planted more than a decade ago, as this wine utilizes four different Pinot Noir clones. Shades of charcuterie and peat moss fill the nose, alongside a great core of bright red fruits. The palate combines rich red and dark fruits with tobacco, peat moss and salty undertones. This is seriously good stuff that finishes exceedingly long. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 St. Innocent ‘Fredom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Justice Vineyard’ is set high atop a hill in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. The wine saw sixteen months of 21% new French oak prior to bottling. Suggestions of black truffle shavings and pine needles are woven together with wild blackberry and black cherry on the nose. The palate is soft and beautifully textured with outstanding length. The seamless expression of Pinot Noir is apparent here. Gorgeous to savor now in its youth, this has at least another ten years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 St. Innocent ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- One of the famed sites in the Willamette Valley. For Pinot Noir, the ‘Shea Vineyard’ is set in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA set on shallow marine sedimentary soils. The palate is fresh and lively with a great sense of salinity. Delicate guava, red cherry and cranberry tones mingle with white truffle, blood orange zest and damp earthy undertones. A delight to savor now, this has at least another decade to go.  Drink 2021-2035- 94

Lagana Cellars

I love the consistent talent that has been through Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program. Jason Fox founded Lagana back in 2013. The winery now sources from some great vineyards including Sagemoor, Eritage and Seven Hills vineyards. I have enjoyed hanging out with Jason and talking wine. Humble and conscientious, he is gaining experience and precision at his craft. Jason now partners with Todd Bernave in Lagana Cellars winemaking as Todd had a career in fine art for fifteen years prior to getting into winemaking.

They both have done a really good job with crafting mineral-driven white wines and I thoroughly enjoyed the 2018 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 90) which has good finesse and a great sense of minerality. Even better was his 2018 Nox Perpetua Carmenere (OB, 91) which is gorgeous for the varietal showing good typicity and a sense of weight, alongside the veil of tension imparted. These guys have a bright future ahead. Learn more about these wines at http://www.laganacellars.com Here are the new wine releases by Lagana Cellars. 

2020 Lagana Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2020 ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvingnon Blanc shows lemongrass and kiwi tones aromatically with shades of wet stone. The palate is bright with plenty of mouth-watering acidity. Lighter pear and white grapefruit flavors mingle with suggestions of starfruit and damp earth on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 89

2018 Lagana Cellars ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Chardonnay shows nice bright pear and lemon zest tones with plenty of minerals and an inviting texture. Enjoy in the short-term while the good sense of freshness remains. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2020 Lagana Cellars Rose- Brightly colored in the glass, this great new effort reveals a soft texture and plenty of nuance. Layers of watermelon and orange starburst candy mingle with shades of Yakima cherry and wet rocky soils on the palate. The great finish adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2018 Lagana ‘Breezy Slope Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Breezy Slope Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with lovely teaberry and damp earth tones alongside red raspberry and red cherry. The palate is juicy and quite literally jam-packed with flavor and novelty. Damp soil and Bing cherry tones collide with minerals and smoky undertones on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that shows off its terroir. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2018 Lagana ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Malbec- A glass-staining purple, the 2018 ‘Eritage Vineyard’ Malbec opens with black tea, violets and black pepper tones on the nose. The palate is fresh and nicely textured, showing good mid-palate ripeness and flavor density. A great core of dark fruits greet you with shades of blueberry compote, tar and a dusting of white pepper. Fantastic now, enjoy this great wine over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 Nox Eternelle Carmenere- Entirely sourced from the famed ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ this Carmenere reveals classic green bell pepper and green peppercorns aromatically alongside a good core of dark fruits. The palate is fresh and vibrant with good acidity and rich dark fruits that parade with chocolate cake, espresso bean and nice herbal undertones. Drink 2021-2029- 91

Big Table Farm

For years I have been gushing about one of the famed producers in Oregon, Big Table Farm. They’ve certainly have amassed a massive amount of accolades over the past decade and continue to impress vintage after vintage. Founded by two of the great people in Oregon Wine, Big Table Farm is the brainchild of Clare Carver and Brian Marcy.  For those of you who have not tried the wines, I urge you that this is a not to be missed lineup of wines — from bright, mineral driven Rose to rich and layered Chardonnay to earthy and downright seductive Pinot Noir. Superstar winemaker Brian Marcy turns literally anything he gets in his hands on into a beautiful wine. He has a longstanding history in the wine industry, living in Napa and previously serving as winemaker for Neyers prior to moving north and settling in the Willamette Valley. His wines are rich, terroir driven and show dazzling minerality. It is very hard to find this degree of tension and viscosity in a glass of Oregon Pinot Noir.  Years ago I admired the wines he was crafting at Neyers and I even recently had the chance to try one of his older wines, a Chardonnay that was more than a decade old but was still holding well!

I adored the new releases were stunning across the board. I absolutely loved the new 2019 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is silky and elegant with a seamless texture. This wine screams value. I was blown away with the 2019 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which shows a downright luscious mouthfeel and has seriously good range, giving this wine an exotic edge. 2019 certainly wasn’t the easiest of vintages to make Oregon Pinot Noir but this is a prime example of what a brilliant winemaker can do in even challenging vintages. Learn more about Big Table Farm at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.

2018 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards, this shows straw with wild mushroom and vanilla cream tones alongside bright pear and starfruit on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with a great sense of minerality. Baking spiced Challah bread and banana tones mingle with honeydew melon on the palate with wet stone accents. Seriously good now, this will continue to evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2019 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Enchanting and downright delicious, the 2019 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir shows off a downright sexy core of red fruits that march on with red rose petals and leather undertones on this outstanding bouquet. The palate is fresh and wonderfully textured. Layers of red currants and red cherry candy mingle with minerals, damp earth and shades of exotic spices on the palate.  Gorgeous now, this has at least a decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031-93

2019 Big Table  Farm ‘Pelos Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the the Eola-Amity Hills AVA,  the ‘Pelos Sandberg Vineyard’ is farmed by Don Sandberg. Juicy guava and orange rind tones mingle with shades of cardamom and fresh red florals on this beautiful bouquet. The palate shows a great sense of weight and length with a serious veil of tension. Ripe red cherry and cran-pomegranate tones collide with minerals, smoke and earthy undertones. Gratifying an refined, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Funk Estate Vineyard’ Syrah- Sourced from this esteemed site in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, the ‘Funk Estate Vineyard’ is owned by Richard and Anita Funk. Right away the stony tones entice aromatically, alongside boysenberry preserves, Umami and green peppercorns that all take shape in the glass. The palate is fresh and beautifully textured. Black raspberry and Kalmata olives mingle with minerals, blood orange zest, smoke and menthol tones on the palate. Outstanding to savor now,  this has another eight to ten years in front of it. Drink 2021-2029-  94

Jaine

A new wine project for Matthews Winery, Jaine focuses on high quality white wines and Rose from some of the great vineyard sites in Washington State. They craft their Chardonnay from Connor Lee Vineyard and use other exciting sites like the Thunderstone Vineyard. They also have a new tasting room which was formerly used by DeLille Cellars in central Woodinville is an awesome spot to sip their wines.

I was excited with what I tasted from this new brand. I was particularly impressed with the new 2019 Jaine Rose (OB, 91) which is a terrific effort from the talented Aryn Morell. The pretty red fruits here work marvelously. Learn more about this great new project winery at https://jaine.co/ and here are my reviews of the great new wines by Jaine. 

2019 Jaine Sauvignon Blanc-  Sourced from the Columbia Valley, this shows lemon blossom tones alongside honeydew melon and shades of kiwi on the nose. The palate is soft and beautifully textured offering loads of bright acidity and citrus fruits. The finesse and sense of mouthfeel is really nice. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2019 Jaine Chardonnay-  Sourced from the esteemed ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ the 2019 Jaine Chardonnay shows light pear and green apple tones alongside minerals and earthy undertones on the palate. Entirely aged in stainless steel, enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2019 Jaine Rose- The 2019 Jaine Rose is sourced from the Thunderstone Vineyard. Entirely made from Grenache, this shows pretty orange blossom and red rose water aromatics with melon and wet stone undertones on the nose. The palate is soft and very pretty in the fruit quality it delivers. Layers of guava, red cherry and pomegranate all combine with shades of cantaloupe, with an underlying mineral presence. This is just brilliant stuff by Aryn Morell. Drink 2021-2026- 91

SUNU

One of the exciting new Oregon Pinot Noir houses, SUNU was created by Betz Family Wines and their love for Oregon wines. I was quite exited about this project when I first heard about it, as SUNU not only solely produces Pinot Noir but makes their Pinots from one region, utilizing vineyards throughout the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. SUNU refers to the French statement which means emphasis on vineyard as the primary engine of wine quality and character, “Sous Nous,” which means “under us.”  Louis Skinner of Betz fame crafts his wines from some outstanding vineyards in the Willamette Valley including two wines from the famed Shea Vineyard. Each site has its individual expression of Pinot Noir. Unabashedly a Burgundy lover, I  know how passionate Louis is with these wines.  Considering that he has not made Pinot Noir very long, I am really impressed what he can do with this varietal.

I am slowly starting to taste through the 2019 Oregon Pinot Noirs and no doubt wines made from this vintage will vary considerably, due to the difficult harvest conditions. The 2019 SUNU wines are well-structured and lighter than the 2018s but are extremely well-made and delicious across the board. The 2019 SUNU ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (OB, 91) has a terrific sense of texture and mouthfeel. Even better was their 2019 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard East Hill’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which showed a great dark fruit profile and beautiful finesse. Bravo to the winemaking team with creating such a great range of Oregon Pinot Noirs from this challenging vintage. Learn more about this exciting new Oregon project at https://www.sunuwines.com Here are the beautiful new Pinot Noir wines by SUNU.

2019 SUNU ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- This shows good finesse with bright red fruits that dance with minerals, smoke and damp earth tones. Soft on the mouth, enjoy this excellent effort over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2019 SUNU ‘Lonesome Rock’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Lonesome Rock’ Pinot Noir shows off pretty saline drenched red fruits with tobacco leaf and leather, alongside shades of citrus rind aromatically. The palate is fresh and finesse driven, with light to medium-bodied red fruits, giving this a pretty profile, with shades of orange water and damp earth. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2019 SUNU ‘Lazy River’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Lazy River’ Pinot Noir impresses with its great core of red fruits and salty tones on the palate. The red floral tones add to the enjoyment. Medium-bodied, with good length, and a soft texture, this has some good cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2019 SUNU ‘Matteri’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Matteri’ Pinot Noir is cut from a different cloth, showing more dark fruits than red fruits, with boysenberry and even huckleberry aromatics, alongside pine needle undertones. The palate is very silky, showing ai great sense of mouthfeel. This comes off slightly more gratifying than the other bottlings, with ripe red and dark fruits, showing a nice air of salinity and forest floor tones. This is very refined stuff that will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 SUNU ‘Saffron Fields’ Pinot Noir- A relatively new site set on marine sedimentary soils, this ‘Saffron Fields Vineyard’ Pinot Noir evokes ripe cranberry and teaberry tones alongside salted meats and peat moss tones that all meld in the glass. The palate reveals ripe red cherry and red raspberry with lighter herbal and damp earth tones, as the wine finishes with good length. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2019 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard West’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the famed ‘Shea Vineyard’ this wine shows off very pretty red florals with exotic spices, Bing cherry and damp, salty earth aromatics. The palate is very fresh and gratifying with its seamless texture. Layers of cran-pomegranate, blood orange rind, tobacco and damp earth all wonderfully combine on the palate. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard East’ Pinot Noir- I love the 2019 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard East’ Pinot Noir. The black fruit profile on the palate and bouquet really impress, as this wine has a good feeling of poise and weight. Wild blackberry and huckleberry tones combine with smoky minerals, damp earth and even shades of menthol. Beautifully textured, this outstanding new wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

Structure Cellars

As we continue on Washington Wine Month we bring you one of the SoDo spots I’ve loved tasting at for years. Some seriously good value-driven wines, Structure Cellars focuses their program on high quality red wine that won’t damage your pocketbook. At the helm is Brian Grasso, a former sommelier that trained under Washington wine legend Chris Sparkman of Sparkman Cellars before starting his own winery. Brian is a really easy-going, down to earth guy. He’s passionate and dedicated to making high quality, good value wines. He and his wife have also curated a really cool sparkling wine bar called Love Beats Pagne (https://www.lovebeatspagne.com)

Stop in to Structure Cellars and you will no doubt see Brian tasting people through their lineup, with 90s hip hop playing in the background. A lot of heads will be bopping. The new wines were outstanding across the board. A killer value is his 2018 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Red Wine (OB, 91) which is fresh and shows a nice range, blending Cabernet Franc and Mouvedre. I adored his 2018 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) which has gorgeous finesse and really nice dark fruit and non fruit tones. Learn more about these excellent wines at structurecellars.com Here are the great new wines by Structure Cellars.

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Red Wine- This blend comprised of Cabernet Franc (66%) and Mourvedre (34%) shows a soft. Mouthfeel with lighter herbal tones that mingle with milk chocolate, dried herbs and dark cherry syrup on the palate. Medium-bodied and delicious to savor now,  I could see this pairing magically with rack of lamb. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- Sourced from this famed site in the Yakima Valley, pretty red florals and red currants with shades of tobacco leaf all mark the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Layers of red fruits dance with minerals, sagebrush and shades of yellow bell pepper on the palate. Tightly wound now, give this at least an hour of air if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- Even more fragrant than the ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ bottling, the 2018 ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc has a gorgeous range of red and dark florals, with cassis and blackberry compote tones all marking the nose. The palate has a lovely freshness and great finesse. This finishes very long with bright red fruits and minerals. Be sure to give this a two hour decant if enjoying now. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- For many years the ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ has  been one of the unique  parcels of land that grows everything from fresh and vibrant Chardonnay to inky Syrah.  Anise, dark currant jelly and tar tones all combine brilliantly on the nose. The palate is restrained but very refined with firm tannins holding a great core of espresso bean, black fruits and tar flavors together. Try to resist this beautiful wine for another. year. Drink 2022-2033- 93

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- I adore this new wine made by the talented Brian Grasso that has great freshness and mid-palate ripeness. Creme de cassis and a light dusting of salinity mingle with tar and sweet pipe tobacco tones on the palate. The finesse is really nice, as is the length, as this outstanding 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for at least another decade. Try giving this a two hour decant if enjoying now. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Triomphe’ Mourvedre- The 2018 ‘Triomphe’ is 100% Mourvedre sourced from the Upland Vineyard. The smoky and rich dark fruit tones make this exceedingly easy to savor even in its youth, as salted bacon, green olives and leather tones add to the enjoyment. With a good sense of mouthfeel, this finesse-driven Mourvedre is best enjoyed over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Syrah- This awesome and inky Syrah shows Smoked brisket with black olive tapenade and wild blackberry preserves on the nose. The palate is plush and very saturated with great mouth-watering acidity. Layers of ripe dark fruits collide with creosote, smoked pork shoulder and shades of salty damp earth all add to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2018 Structure Cellars ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah- One of the iconic spots for Washington Syrah, I very fondly recall David Lake Red Willow bottling from the late 90s. This terrific rendition shows very good range on the palate from blood orange and summer sausage to iodine and black currants on the palate. Still a bit tightly wound, be sure to give this lots of air if enjoying now. Drink 2021-2029- 92

Delas

Today I had a very instructive experience tasting through the Delas wines with their winemaker over Zoom. One of the great houses in the Northern Rhone, Delas was founded back in 1835. Although the Delas family has been making wine since 1835 in the Rhône Valley, it was not until 1924 that they took the current name of the estate. In 1993, the Rouzaud family, owners of Louis Roederer, acquired both Delas Frères and Champagne Deutz. Since 1996, the Rouzaud family has made important investments in the Saint-Jean-de-Muzols production site near Tournon-sur-Rhône. They have revamped their production facility and cellars to make some important modernizations. 

Delas now makes a huge range of wines all the way from the Ventoux in southern France, as well as Chateauneuf du Pape but they are best known for their wines from Cote Rotie and Hermitage. I was massively impressed with their red and white wine releases across the board. Look to their 2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourelles (OB, 94) which is rich, unctuous and downright delicious with good freshness and some seriously good aging potential. I loved the new 2017 Delas Cote-Rotie La Landonne (OB, 96) which comes from some hallowed ground and is seamless and elegant with a silky mouthfeel. 

2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourelles- A blend of 90% Marsanne with the remainder Roussanne, this saw roughly nine months of barrel aging with battonage. The texture is gorgeous here with ripe peach and starfruit tones with a silky sense of mouthfeel and good freshness. Drink 2021-2033- 94

2016 Delas Condrieu La Galopine- The 2016 Delas Condrieu La Galopine is a stunning wine that was sourced from four communes in Condrieu. The wine shows great finesse and is downright unctuous on the tongue. Layers of buttercream and stony minerals are woven together with ripe Bartlett pear and shades of banana that gives this plenty of exotic appeal. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2017 Delas Condrieu Clos Boucher- The 2017 Delas Condrieu Clos Boucher is sourced from a single vineyard adjacent to Chateau Grillet. Aged for six months on the lees, this provides ripe pineapple, white peach and shades of nutmeg and toasted Macadamia nut on this gorgeous bouquet. The freshness and sense of finesse as well as dense mouthfeel here really impresses. Drink 2021-2035- 95

2015 Delas Crozes Hermitage Domaine des Grand Chemins- Already quite evolved this shows dark currents and graphite tones alongside shades of iron and bulls blood. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2021-2026- 90

2015 Delas Crozes Hermitage Le Clos- The 2015 Le Clos shows beautiful black florals with wild blackberry and soy sauce tones aromatically. The palate is fresh with plenty of finesse. Soft tannins line the beautifully pure dark fruits that mingle with stony terroir. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 Delas Cote-Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron- The 2017 Cote-Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron is a combination of fruit sourced from the Cote Brune and Cote Blonde vineyards. The gorgeous aromatics impresss with layers of rich red and dark fruits with citrus rind and iodine tones. The freshness and finesse of the wine is outstanding, as is the great sense of length. Firm tannins hood together a great core of red and dark fruits with charcuterie and black tea tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2017 Delas Cote-Rotie La Landonne- Delas has four acres of land in this hallowed site. This saw 16 months of French oak aging (25% new) prior to bottling. Quite closed aromatically, this really needs an hour of air to get going. The palate is extremely refined with black raspberry and blackberry cordial flavors alongside coffee grounds and graphite tones with amazing verve. This has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2038- 96

2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes-The 2017 Delas Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes is an awesome showing sourced from this south facing site in Hermitage. Gorgeous violets with black currants and smoky tones fill the nose. The palate is rich, concentrated and beautifully structured with a soft texture. Elegant with great length this is already showing beautifully now. Drink 2021-2038- 95

2017 Delas Hermitage Lea Bessards- The 2017 Delas Hermitage Lea Bessards is sourced from a single vineyard first planted in 1990. Ripe cassis and sour black Cherry tones mingle with exotic spices and stony undertones on the palate. Generous and rich with outstanding length, this has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2035- 94

White Walnut Estate

“We are really excited what we see from 2020, especially our Chardonnay” Chris Mazepink exclaimed during our phone call yesterday. A really exciting new project out of Oregon, White Walnut is the brainchild of the former winemaker and general manager of Archery Summit, Chris Mazepink, who purchased land in the Dundee Hills back in 2013. Chris sensed the potential of the property as it is located adjacent to the vineyards of legendary Oregon wineries Domaine Drouhin and Archery Summit. Chris and his sons, Archer and Charles, cleared the land, by hand, in the summer of 2014 and then planted it to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in 2015 and 2016. They preserved the remaining walnut trees on the property that continue to produce fruit and are now well over 70 years old, standing stoic amongst the vines. 

A smaller site at less than seven planted acres, Chris sees incredible potential for Chardonnay in the Dundee Hills. “I think the wines that the critics actually like more is Chardonnay and I see that potential here” he explained. 

I think the new wines he has crafted are really gorgeous across the board. Sensational for an entry level bottling, the 2018 White Walnut 'Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) delivers really good range and a silky mouthfeel. Even better is the sensational 2019 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is dense and showing beautiful red and dark fruits with good freshness. Learn more about this outstanding new winery at https://www.whitewalnutestate.com Here are the great new wines by White Walnut. 

2018 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay- Golden once the glass, the 2018 ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay shows a very soft texture with layers of buttercream and banana alongside Meyer lemon zest and melon tones on the palate. The combination of mouthfeel and tension here is really good. This shows considerable better warmed up, as the 2018 ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay is best enjoyed over the next six to eight years. Drink 2021-2027- 92

2018 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay is a limited production bottling that opens with nice aromatic range from salted Macadamia nut to pear and citrus rind tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is very refined and the rich mouthfeel really enhances the drinking experience. With great persistence and length, this outstanding new Chardonnay will cellar well over the next eight plus years. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2019 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay- A light whiff of volcanic earth really entices here as layers of orchard and citrus. fruits combine with vanilla cream tones on the nose. A light dusting of salinity adds to the affair here with layers of buttercream and lemon zest mingle with baking spice infused Challah bread on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that has both the bright acidity and stuffing top cellar for another ten years. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir shows lovely range on the nose from volcanic earth to red currants and peat moss tones. The palate reveals a beautiful purity of red fruits, ranging from guava and strawberry to red cherry and pomegranate seed. The volcanic terroir here is simply outstanding, as this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2019 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir-  The gorgeous 2019 ‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir shows off that great volcanic terroir with salted red fruit aromatics and pine needles that all mingle in the glass. The palate is big and downright voluptuous with its deep core of red and dark fruits with white truffle and forest floor undertones. Downright delicious to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine has a long road ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 93

Sin Banderas

As we continue to roll on through Washington Wine Month, we wanted to share one of the excellent boutique wineries that our state offers out of the Yakima Valley. Sin Banderas was founded by four friends from different parts of the world. They all met in Yakima while working together at Owen Roe.The wine is made at the Owen Roe custom crush facility. Sin Banderas winemaker Jacki Evans is originally from Texas and studied Biology at the University of Texas in Austin. She has over 10 years of winemaking experience with 15 harvests around the world, including Napa Valley of California, Willamette Valley of Oregon, the Great Southern of Western Australia, Barossa Valley of South Australia, Burgenland, Austria, and Marlborough, New Zealand.  She's been in the Yakima Valley of Washington State making wine with Owen Roe Winery since the 2013 vintage. 

The new wines by Sin Banderas was very good, coming from the latest 2020 vintage. I adored her 2020 Sin Banderas Riesling (OB, 91) which has gobs of freshness and finesse with a silky texture, Learn more about this new wine project at https://www.sinbanderaswines.com Here is my review of the Sin Banderas wines. 

2020 Sin Banderas Riesling-  Made in the Kabinette style, this outstanding new Riesling shows not only good depth and freshness but outstanding range. Orange blossoms, kiwi, melon and wet stone tones all brilliantly combine on the palate. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2020 Sin Banderas Rose- This light pink shaded Rose shows good astringency and a soft texture. Very delicate red fruits mingle with red rose water and shades of Japanese pear on the palate. Drink 2021-2024- 89

L’Ecole No 41

These are exciting times at one of Washington’s historic wineries. A new winemaker, Marcus Rafanelli, has recently been hired, as L’Ecole continues to make some of the best value red and white wines in the state. I have been tasting at this winery since 2002. For many years I have been massively impressed the quality that they can offer in the glass. Marty Clubb, one of the greats in Walla Walla wine, helped build this brand into a national and international pillar of balanced and well-priced Washington wines. Today you can see these outstanding values in supermarket shelfs across the country, flying the Washington wine flag very high.

The third winery in Walla Walla, L’Ecole No. 41 the winery invested in their Walla Walla Estate Ferguson and Seven Hills Vineyards, now utilizing 100% sustainable farming practices. Somewhat recently they purchased a parcel of land that is a high elevation site named after L’Ecole founders Jean and Baker Ferguson. This 42-acre Estate vineyard is set on thin loess soil overlying fractured basalt — a truly unique soil type for the valley. Wines from this site embody a wonderfully stony undertone.

I recently had the chance to taste the new wine from this special site, the 2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Ferguson Estate’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which just might be the finest wine from this special location made yet. The wine is dense and chewy, downright massive, and hard some incredible cellaring potential and nuance.  This is a great purchase for any serious collector of Washington wine. Learn more about L’Ecole and their awesome new set of wines at https://www.lecole.com/ Here are my reviews of the new L’Ecole wines. 

2020 L’Ecole No 41 Rose- This Grenache based Rose shows off pretty orange blossom tones aromatically, alongside kiwi and strawberry tones that all entice. The palate is fresh and slightly sweet with lots of finesse and a lingering finish. This is seriously good stuff that will be best enjoyed while the vibrant core of acidity remains. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- Smoky, savory and delicious, the 2018 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Syrah shows off plenty of smoked meats with blackberry compote, black olives, tar and garrigue tones on the palate. Full-bodied and glorious in its hedonistic youth, this outstanding new Syrah will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 93

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- The 2018 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot is an awesome wine by L’Ecole. Ripe black plum and chocolate covered dark kirsch aromas with baking spices all meld in the glass. The palate is refined and elegant with a terrific mouthfeel and outstanding length. Rich dark fruits collide with minerals, smoke and chocolate cake notes on the palate. Outstanding in its youth, this has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A glorious 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, you are immediately struck by the rich sagebrush and anise tones on the nose, with a great wall of dark fruits holding everything in place. The palate is very smooth with refined tannins that mingle with black raspberry cordial, cigar box, black currants and chocolate covered espresso bean flavors. The long finish lingers. Terrific to enjoy now, this beautiful wine will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2018 L’Ecole No 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine is a compelling blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon with 24% Merlot and smaller parts Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot sourced from this high elevation site in the Walla Walla Valley. Once on the nose this takes on layers of creme de cassis and creosote tones that mingle with exotic spices on this fantastic bouquet. The palate is soft and refined, with good richness and a wonderful veil of tension and salinity. Intense dark fruits mingle with minerals, cigar ash and Turkish coffee tones on the palate, with firm tannins holding everything well in place. Exceedingly good even in its youth, try to hold off enjoying this beautiful wine for at least another two years. Drink 2024-2040- 95

Mollydooker

It was spring 2020 and I sat across from Luke Marquis for a really exciting Instagram Live interview. Wines in hand, we tasted together and he shared the incredible story that is Mollydooker. I recall the massive, tidal wave level of buzz that traveled around when Mollydooker was first formed back in 2005. These wines were immediately met with critical praise but I hadn’t had the chance to try them quite yet. 

In a very short amount of time Sarah and Sparky Marquis created one of the iconic wine brands of Australia. Their first wine, the 2006 ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz was immediately awarded 99 points by Robert Parker and was sold out in five days. The following year, their Velvet Glove Shiraz became their fifth wine to be awarded 99 points by The Wine Advocate and the Carnival of Love has since been listed in Wine Spectator’s ‘Top Ten wines in the World’ three times. This is just an unprecedented amount of success for a new winery.

I was first introduced to these wines in their 2007 vintage as word traveled very quickly to the United States. The combination of weight and acidity in the wines was quite thrilling. I was also enticed with the consistency of their wines, regardless of vintage. For instance, 2011 was a highly challenging vintage in South Australia and the wines made by Mollydooker that vintage were some of the finest produced in the region. In 2017 Sarah took sole control of the winery and now has her son, Luke, the ‘Blue Eyed Boy’ is involved in the winery as well as he leads global sales. I sat down with Sarah a few years ago for an exciting interview.

I adored the new Mollydooker lineup. Don’t miss out on the thrilling 2018 Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz (OB, 95) which is hedonistic and intense, yet shows bright acidity and wonderful viscosity.  Even better is the iconic 2018 Mollydooker ‘Velvet Glove’ Shiraz (OB, 98) which is a wine that flirts with perfection and is a magical bottling with a seamless texture that makes this effortlessly glide. What strikes me most about this wine is not only the feeling of weight but the nuance that the wine offers despite being massively dense. Learn more about this inspired Australian winery at https://www.mollydookerwines.com.au/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Mollydooker.

2019 Mollydooker ’The Boxer’ Shiraz- The 2018 ‘The Boxer’ is an outstanding release by Mollydooker. They wine offers plenty of rich red and dark fruits alongside tar and scorched earth tones on the palate. Full-bodied and delicious to savor now, this outstanding effort will provide drinking enjoyment for the next seven plus years. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2019 Mollydooker ‘The Maitre D’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘The Maitre D’ shows plenty of rich dark fruits with tobacco and milk chocolate tones on the nose. The palate is fresh a nd silky with layers of roasted dates, menthol, milk chocolate covered dark cherry and shades of espresso bean. Delicious now, enjoy this great new Cabernet Sauvignon over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2019 Mollydooker ‘Two Left Feet’ Red WIne- The 2019 ‘Two Left Feet’ Red Wine is a great blend of 69% Shiraz, 16% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was aged in almost all American oak (44% new) before bottling, weighing in at 16% alcohol. The wine shows toasty oak alongside dark kirsch and black currants that all mingle in the glass. The palate is fresh and beautifully textured. Layers of ripe dark currants and roasted figs mingle with milk chocolate all combine on the palate. This is seriously good stuff for the price. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2018 Mollydooker ‘Carnival of Love’ Shiraz- The 2018 ‘Carnival of Love’ is a sensational release by Mollydooker. Aged in 100% new French oak, this shows off toasty oak with creme de cassis, black olive tapenade, white pepper and smoked brisket tones that all come together in the glass. The palate is rich and viscous with an incredible harmonious quality and great veil of tension. The voluptuous texture really impresses as a massive core of dark fruits (roasted figs, boysenberry syrup, black currant jelly) all mingle with coffee grounds and shades of dark chocolate cake on the palate. Sensational now, this has at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 95

2018 Mollydooker ‘The Velvet Glove’ Shiraz- The 2018 Mollydooker ‘The Velvet Glove’ Shiraz is a utterly sensational bottling that rivals any wine of its kind. Aged in all new American oak, this shows a gorgeous bouquet from blueberry pie to espresso grounds, graphite and toasty oak tones that all impress. The palate is deep and utterly seamless. A massive core of blue and dark fruits collide with white pepper, minerals, firm tannins and a light dusting of salinity. While obviously big, this has a weightless quality and wonderful verve. Wonderful to enjoy now, this outstanding Shiraz will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another fifteen years. But why wait? Drink 2021-2038- 98

Julia’s Dazzle

I love a wine that is wonderfully complex but also very easy to drink. Years ago Long Shadows had the terrific idea to craft their Rose wine from outstanding Pinot Gris grapes at The Benches Vineyard. This created a style of wine that had a sensational texture and wonderful melon and pretty, delicate red fruits.

For many years the Long Shadows Julia’s Dazzle has been one of the most consistently great Rose wines out of Washington. This is Rose that has plenty of stuffing but always maintains a wonderful sense of verve — great for when the weather warms up.

I was very honored to be the first wine critic to try the 2020 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 91) which is a downright awesome Rose bottling that continues the line of remarkable consistency not only for this brand but superstar winemaker Gilles Nicault. Cheers to warmer days ahead! Learn more at longshadows.com

Here is my review of the 2020 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose.

2020 Long Shadows 'Julia’s Dazzle' Rose- The 2020 Julia’s Dazzle Rose is another impressive bottling by famed winemaker Giles Nicault. This 2020 Rose is 100% Pinot Gris sourced from the the Yakima Valley that was whole cluster pressed. Right away this shows peach and orange rind tones alongside wet stone, strawberry and shades of wild mushroom on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with a great sense of weight and finesse. Kiwi and Mandarin orange rind flavors collide with minerals, wet stone and guava tones all artfully combine on the palate. Fresh and lithe, this has some nice medium-term cellaring potential. This is very nuanced stuff. Drink 2021-2025- 91

Kerloo Cellars

Sitting across from Ryan Crane, he had no qualms about his honest response to my question about the 2020 vintage. “2020 was tough with some smoke and freeze issues but we were really happy with the wines” he said. I have been consistently impressed with Ryan’s winemaking which has beautifully evolved since he began many years back. His boutique style of winemaking involves crafting very precise, small production, single vineyard bottlings that have an err of the old world. 

Years back Ryan got his start at Animale Cellars in Seattle, and then later trained under Marie-Eve Gilla at Forgeron Cellars while completing his degree in Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College. These are wines that show great finesse with rich fruit flavors and wonderful terroir. Ryan has a deft touch for Rose and white wines.I adored his 2020 Kerloo  Cellars ‘Lonesome Springs Vineyard’ Rose (OB, 92) which is very geeky stuff, perfect for the somm crowd. This is highly nuanced Rose. As I wrote last year and even more this vintage this single vineyard bottling is very Bandol meets Washington. A downright killer value is his 2020 SoDo Cellars ‘Love Birds’ Rose (OB,  90) which is fresh and vibrant with beautiful acidity and soft red fruit flavors. At a mere 15 bucks you would be hard pressed to find another Rose that delivers this quality at this price. A tour de force, the 2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Rockgarden Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 95) is pure Rocks with incredible finesse and really good nuance. Don’t miss out on this silky, beautifully layered Syrah. Learn more about this great SoDo winery at www.kerloocellars.com. Here are the great new releases by the talented Ryan Crane and his Kerloo Cellars.

2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘Lonesome Springs Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- This is the first 100% concrete aged Sauvignon blanc that Ryan Crane has made. Sourced from the Lonesome Springs Vineyard, this shows bright gooseberry and kiwi aromatic tones alongside white rose blossoms. The lovely wet stone character makes this particularly novel. The combination of mouth-watering acidity, finish and mouthfeel is really outstanding here. Drink this beautiful wine over the next few years Drink 2021-2025- 92

2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘Blue Mountain Vineyard’ Grenache Blanc- This Grenache Blanc wine was given 4 months of battonage and was 100 neutral barrel aged 6 months before bottling. Lemongrass and cantaloupe tones mingle with lighter nutty tones. The mouthfeel and wonderful sense of verve is outstanding here. Green papaya and lemon rind tones mingle with shades of Marcona almond on the palate. This is outstanding stuff that will be best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 91

2020 Kerloo Cellars ’Lonesome Springs. Vineyard’ Rose- The 2018 ‘Lonesome Springs Vineyard’ Rose is 60% Mourvedre with the remainder Grenache all sourced from the Lonesome Springs Vineyard. This was entirely aged in concrete and was left on the lees before a clean racking prior to bottling. This vintage contains slightly more Mourvedre and shows a nice aromatic range from pretty red fruits to kiwi and melon tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is silky smooth with a marvelous sense of texture. This is really highly nuanced Rose with the wet stone and orange rind character alongside the lighter melon and strawberry tones. This has outstanding length, providing the resounding crecendo. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2020 SoDo Cellars ‘Love Birds’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Love Birds’ Rose is a serious value in Washington Rose. Pretty nectarine and Yakima cherry tones alongside guava and wet stone undertones all mark the nose. The palate shows just a hint of residual sugar alongside amazing freshness and bright red fruits with melon tones. This is amazing juice for the price. Drink 2021-2024- 90

2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘The Queen’ Red Wine- A blend of near equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache, this saw 100% neural barrel fermentation before bottling. Pretty red fruits mark then nose with the creosote and smoked meats and a dusting of white pepper. The palate is super fresh and vibrant with layers of pretty red fruits that mingle with black licorice, bubblegum and smoked pork shoulder wit salty tones. This finishes long. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Rockgarden Estate’ Syrah- This is really unique wine made by Ryan Crane who was approached by Nina Buty to purchase a small amount of Syrah and Mourvedre (still in barrel). Right away this is pure Rocks with wet stone, green peppercorn, charcuterie and horse manure tones alongside green olive tapenade and Only two neutral puncheons made.The palate has incredible freshness and tension with a wonderful sense of mouthfeel. This is generous but also very seamless. Rich dark fruits collide with smoky and salty tones on the palate with seaweed, blood orange zest and wet stone. This is complex and delicious Syrah that will cellar well for another eight years. Drink 2021-2029- 95

Dunham Cellars

It was 2002 and I was a Whitman College senior. One of the cool things was to visit some of the local wineries and learn more about wine. I fondly recall my stops to Dunham Cellars which was one of the friendliest places to taste good wine. Truly one of the storied houses in Walla Walla, Dunham Cellars was founded by the Dunham family in 1995. Over the years I have found that Dunham crafts some of the most consistently good overall lineups in the state. Dunham relies on the talented hands of winemaker Rob Campisi, who was formerly assistant winemaker at Dunham. Rob trained under eminent Washington winemaker, Dan Wampfler and he crafts quite a wide range of wines including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Trutina (Bordeaux style blend), Three Legged Red (red table wine) and the "Shirley Mays" Chardonnay, a dedication to Eric's grandmother.  

I love the new 2020 Dunham Cellars Rose (OB, 91) made from Cabernet Franc grapes as this shows a very soft. texture. Even better and a great value is the compelling 2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is amazing for the price. I would say that one of the great Merlot wines I have tasted from Washington over the past year, the 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Merlot (OB, 95) is dense, chewy and has a seamless character. This is a winery only bottling that is utterly sensational. Learn more about these beautiful wines at dunhamcellars.com Here are the great new wines by Dunham Cellars.

2020 Dunham Cellars Rose- Dunham has been making this Cabernet Franc Rose since 2015. This is their first year sourcing from the Gamache Vineyard. Aged in stainless steel, this shows pretty red rose petals and white peach tones aromatically alongside shades of wet stone. The bright acidity is impressive, as is the sense of mouthfeel.  Ripe guava and melon tones mingle with wet stone and tons of lip-smacking acidity. Drink 2021-2026- 91

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Shirley Mays’ Chardonnay- Dunham first made this wine in 2007. A combination of Kenny Hill and Lewis Vineyard fruit,  and revealing a beautiful golden hue, this shows off toasted Macadamia nut with banana and Pink Lady apple tones that all meld in the glass. The freshness and viscosity here is really good as layers of buttercream and ripe pear mingle with minerals and shades of creme brullee all impress. This finishes very long with cream and minerals. Gorgeous now, this has some good aging potential. Drink 2021-2028- 93

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2018 Dunham Cellars checks in at 18G/L residual sugar, as this wine has been made since 2007. Fresh and vibrant, this shows a soft texture, unveiling wet stone, sweetened Granny Smith apple, and lemon/lime tones. Beautiful now, this really has some good cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Trutina’ is a blend of 52% Merlot which is higher than most vintages, with 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and small parts Petit Verdot and Malbec. Toasty oak and tar combine with shades of dark chocolate shavings and mocha tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft, round and generous with a great sense of mouthfeel. Layers of dark fruits combine with coffee grounds, milk chocolate and minerals. Beautiful now to enjoy, this will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2017 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new bottling by the talented Dunham winemaking team. Ripe red cherry and dark currants mingle with sagebrush, and tar tones that all takes ape in the glass. The palate is chewy and plush, showing a silky mouthfeel and wonderful sense of texture. Ripe cassis and anise with tobacco leaf tone single with minerals, dark chocolate covered cherry,  graphite and smoky undertones. This has some great aging potential. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Merlot is a stunning, singular bottling that has everything you want in a great Washington Merlot. Tons of plush dark fruits with pipe tobacco and milk chocolate covered coffee bean all combine brilliantly on the nose. The palate is soft and super refined. Layers of rich toffee and roasted dates, black cherry cough syrup and shades of coffee grounds all brilliantly combine on the palate. Full-bodied, rich and decadent, this outstanding Merlot will provide drinking enjoyment for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2021-2036- 95

2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- I am totally blown away with the 2018 Dunham Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah which is just sinfully good for the price. The nose on this wine is just intoxicating. Gobs of smoked meats mingle with milk chocolate, dried herbs and shades of iron on this evocative bouquet. The palate is fresh yet silky smooth, with a great sense of viscosity. Layers of cassis, boysenberry cordial, smoked brisket, bulls blood and hints of Mandarin orange rind all impress. Gorgeous now, this stunning effort will. Provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2017 Dunham Cellars ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Syrah is a stunning new bottling showing gobs of terroir. The smoky and savory aromatics really entice. Fresh and vibrant with great acuity this shows off layers of smoked meats and black olive tapenade with rich dark fruits on the palate. Showing good richness and acidity this has some great cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2035- 95

Toil Oregon

Chris Figgins spoke without hesitation, “We are really excited about our new Oregon property.” Figgins was literally thrilled when he purchased a parcel of land in the Willamette Valley, coming full-circle on wines that he has adored for years. It has now taken several years for the vineyard to produce fruit. Originally launched back in 2012, Toil Oregon started with a production of 200 cases then in 2016 Chris planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. His first wine fully from his estate vineyard was the 2019 Rose.

I’ve said several times that the Toil wines have increased in quality over the years. One thing I have been so impressed with is the consistency of the wines, particularly the novelty of his Rose wine. Chris’s Rose wines are very serious. These are stand-alone wines that liken the nuance of Domaine Ott, Domaine Tempier and other great Provencale bottlings that show not only ripe red fruits but gorgeous non-fruit tones and vibrant acidity.

I was completely enamored with his 2020 Toil Oregon Rose (OB, 93) which is incredible good and shows remarkable nuance, with vibrant acidity, wonderful tension and bright red fruits. His 2019 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (OB, 93) is a stunning wine made from a challenging vintage for Pinot Noir. Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon. 

2020 Toil Oregon Rose- Year after year, Toil Oregon continue to produce a really serious Rose, with an electric color and fabulous aromatic and flavor range. This 2020 edition shows lovely earthy tones alongside Yakima cherry, white peach and shades of guava puree that all dazzle in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant but also beautifully textured. Ripe red fruits collide with smoke, kumquat zest, peat moss and wild mushroom on the palate. The flavor range is nothing short of outstanding. The gratifying length adds to the enjoyment, as this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2027- 93

2019 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- Aged for ten months in 16% new French oak, this beautiful new Chardonnay shows ripe melon with toasted hazelnut and lemon zest dusted brioche tones that build in the glass. The polished texture adds to the enjoyment, as does the exceedingly long finish. Gratifying with its viscosity and crisp acidity, this outstanding new wines will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2019 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- Earthy, rich and utterly beautiful to savor now, the 2019 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir is a resounding success in this somewhat challenging vintage for red wines. A whiff of black truffle shavings catches your eye, as layers of ripe loganberry and peat moss tones all come together nicely. The palate shows a soft sense of mouthfeel, as minerals collide with shades of smoke and a great core of red and dark fruits. This finishes long with black fruits and minerals. Great to enjoy now, this has at least another ten years ahead of it, picking up earthy tones as it cellars. Drink 2021-2033- 93

Audeant

A relatively new winery out of Oregon, Audeant utilizes the talents of Andrew Reichers, who formerly applied his trade at famed Antica Terra. As I was last year when I first tried these wines, I was massively impressed with the degree of tension, richness and terroir that I noticed in the glass. Originally from Eugene, Oregon, he has a long-standing history in the wine industry, originally starting his career with helping with wine production in Santa Barbara at a bulk wine facility. Andrew was the first employee at Sanguis under epic winemaker Matthias Pippig and has also spent time in New Zealand, at Burn Cottage, and in Burgundy in the Haute Cote working for Claire Naudin at Domaine Naudin Ferrand. More recently Andrew has served for five years as the assistant winemaker at Antica Terra and Lillian with Maggie Harrison prior to joining and founding Audeant Wines with Proprietor, Teal Walker, in 2016. Andrew has an awesome resume in wine. 

I adored the new 2019 Audeant Rose (OB, 92) which is fresh and vibrant, with a gorgeous texture.I was so impressed with the deeply satisfying 2018 Audreant ‘Nysa Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which has great salty terroir and smoky tones with dark fruit tones. This is clearly a winery to watch. Learn more about this exciting new winery at https://www.audeant.com Here are the beautiful new wine releases by Audeant. 

2019 Audeant Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this electric Rose shows wild strawberry and melon tones aromatically alongside shades of forest floor. The palate shows plenty of rich texture and vibrant acidity, as well as wonderful length. Pretty red fruits melange with red rose water and shades of orange rind on the palate. Great to savor now, this has some cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2018 Audeant ‘Seven Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this famed spot in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the wine shows toasted brioche and hazelnut tones alongside Meyer lemon zest and shades of baking spice dusted cantaloupe on the nose. The palate shows vibrant acidity and a soft texture, with outstanding length. Layers of buttercream and minerals, alongside Marcona almond and honeydew melon all impress. With plenty of lip-smacking acidity and weight, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Audeant ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Audeant ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a stunning new entry level bottling by the talented Andrew Reichers. The combination of finesse and weight here really entices as ripe dark fruits mingle with orange rind, tobacco leaf and pine needles. Firm tannins hold everything in place. Great to savor now, this has some excellent cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Audeant ‘Nysa Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- I have long enjoyed wines from the ‘Nysa Vineyard’ and this is a terrific new 2018 bottling. Smoky undertones entice with ripe dark cherry and roasted fig tones with damp earthy accents on this evocative nose. The palate is highly fresh and packs a punch with its deep core of dark fruits. Milk chocolate and peat moss tones add to the enjoyment. Great to enjoy right now, this has another decade or more ahead of it. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Audeant ‘Luminous Hills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2018 ‘Luminous Hills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is another outstanding wine by Audeant. Ripe red currants mingle with smoke, menthol and shades of teaberry on the nose. The palate is very fresh with gobs of finesse. Gratifying red and dark fruits collide with minerals,  peat moss and saline drenched damp earth. The terroir here is seriously good. Drink 2021-2033- 93

Parabellum

A truly super set of second wines, Parabellum is an incredible wine project by Force Majeure that captures the art of blending. A man needing no introduction, Todd Alexander came to Force Majeure Vineyards from Bryant Family Wines, crafting some of the premier Cabernet Sauvignon in the Napa Valley. I have been consistently impressed with the level of tension alongside deep dark fruit flavors and texture that Todd has been able to yield in these second wines.

I can see that in the past decade the Force Majeure Vineyard is continuing to develop into one of the most impressive on Red Mountain. This diverse site has eight distinct soil types that are divided into small “micro-blocks,” as this steep vineyard ranges in elevation from 960 to 1,230 feet. The rocky upper-slope with shallow soil is well suited to Syrah and Grenache, while the lower blocks of the vineyard are comprised of deep, well-drained Warden soils, where Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc thrive.

I recently had the chance to check out the 2018 wines by Parabellum and they were gorgeous across the board. The 2018 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine (OB, 93) is an ode to the great wines of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, with a higher level of mouthfeel and viscosity. I also adored the 2018 Parabellum ‘Coulee’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is also beautifully textured and has outstanding dark fruit flavors. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/wines/parabellum/ Here are the great new wines by Parabellum.

2018 Parabellum ‘Coulee’ Red Wine- A blend 90% Syrah and the remainder Mourvedre, this densely colored wine shows layers of black currants and blackberry compote with shade of tar and black licorice on the palate. Dense, chewy and layered, this is thrilling and forward stuff to enjoy in its youth but will provide drinking enjoyment for another eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 93

2018 Parabellum ‘Alluvio’ Red Wine- This great Right Bank style wine shows plenty of mid-palate ripeness and packs a punch. Ripe dark currants mingle with roasted dates, espresso bean and lighter dark and red floral tones on the palate. Full-bodied, showing a good air of viscosity and tension, the 2018 ‘Alluvio’ is ready to dance now and should cellar well over the next seven to nine years. Drink 2021-2028- 93

Januik and Novelty Hill

Sitting across from Andrew Januik, I was not surprised with his grin, looking very content as we tasted through the wines. A few weeks back I had the pleasure in tasting with one of the outstanding young winemaking talents in Washington State. Andrew Januik learned from one of the best, Mike Januik, who was formerly head winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle and Col Solare before starting his own winery. Mike is a master of crafting great wines from literally any varietal. For years I have admired his Chardonnay wines that show insanely good aging potential — even from hot sites like the Cold Creek Vineyard. These guys are also crafting some of the greatest values wines in the state.

One of my all-time favorite wineries to taste at, Januik/Novelty Hill is a must visit for anyone checking out the Woodinville wine scene. The winery is modern and spacious, with one of the area’s top outdoor spaces. If you have never been to Januik/Novelty Hill, then you are in for a treat.

While the space is gorgeous, the wines are even better. I love the 2019 Januik ‘Sagemoor’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 91) which a great core of freshness with great melon tones. I was really impressed by the 2018 Januik ‘Stillwater Vineyard’ Viognier (OB, 92) which has great verve and a soft texture, with outstanding length. The red wines from Januik and Novelty Hill were really impressive across the board. One great value is their 2018 Novely Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Malbec (OB, 93) which completely overdelivers for the price.  Learn more about these great wines at https://www.noveltyhilljanuik.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Januik and Novelty Hill.

2019 Januik ‘Sagemoor Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- Tones of lychee and gooseberry with Japanese pear all fill the nose. The palate is plush with a soft texture and layers of melon, pear and starfruit flavors, with a good sense of minerality. Enjoy over the next several years while the great sense of freshness is intact. Drink 2020-2024- 91

2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Viognier- This beautiful new Viognier has 6% Roussanne blended in, as the wine delivers lots of honeysuckle, Bartlett pear and green papaya tones on the nose. The texture here is insanely good, as is the wonderful sense of length. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Roussanne- The nose here is seriously good with ripe peach and lychee tones that mingle with shades of wet stone on the nose. The freshness and texture here really entice as Japanese pear, nectarine and nutty and damp earth undertones. Outstanding to enjoy now, enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2019 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Novelty Hill has been sourcing wines from this great, cooler site for Chardonnay since 2002. A large clonal selection here, this was aged in 33% new French oak prior to bottling. Buttercream and Macadamia nut tones mingle with wet stone and Pink Lady apple on this fantastic bouquet. The mouthfeel and length are outstanding, as is the wonderful mouth-watering acidity here. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Grenache- The 2018 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Grenache is another outstanding bottling by the talented Andrew Januik. Pretty red florals mingle with Mandarin orange rind and guava puree on this exotic bouquet. The mouthfeel here is outstanding as this beautiful wine delivers plenty of bright red fruits with tobacco leaf and blood orange zest undertones. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Malbec- The 2018 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Malbec overdelivers, as does much of this lineup. The nose is gorgeous with espresso bean, dark chocolate shavings and blueberry compote with violet undertones. Soft, round and generous, this delivers gobs of dark and blue fruits with espresso bean tones. The long finish lingers. This is just killer for being under 30 bucks. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Il Corvo’ Red Wine- This is the first edition of this wine that is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant red blend with smaller parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The nose delivers plenty of spicy dark fruits alongside graphite and tar tones. The freshness here is really good as the blackberry, scorched earth and graphite tones all impress, with lighter tobacco leaf tones. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2018 Novelty Hill ‘Oxbow’ Red Wine- A blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, the 2018 ‘Oxbow’ shows dried herbs and smoky undertones alongside a rich core of blackberry and huckleberry tones on the nose. The palate is fresh with wonderful finesse and a greta mid-palate sense of weight. This seamless wine that delivers plenty of dried herbs,  mulberry and dark fruit tones is absolutely singing now as thawing will provide plenty of drinking enjoyment over the next eight tot en years. Drink 2021-2029- 92

2018 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The 2018 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is a gorgeous effort from this exciting vintage. Bell pepper tones with mocha and anise mark the nose. The palate shows similar traits with a great core of dark fruits and chocolate fudge alongside bell pepper. The seamless texture adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2033-93

2018 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Januik ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome wine by the talented Andrew Januik. Once on the mouth the freshness and finesse beautifully compliments the core of espresso grounds, huckleberry pie and shades of Black Forest cake that all delightfully come together on the palate. This is really tough to beat at this price point. Drink 2021-2031- 93

2018 Januik ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a really great showing that also has some outstanding aging potential.  Scorched earth, tobacco leaf, blackberry compote and tar with black licorice all imposes on the palate. This is seriously good stuff. Drink 2021-2037- 93

2018 Januik ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvinvon- The 2018 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an awesome wine that shows plenty of power and viscosity with a great veil of tension. Right away you are impressed with the massive core of dark fruits with tobacco, milk chocolate and scorched earth tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Januik ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Syrah- I adored the 2018 ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Syrah. You have to love the smoky tones on the nose with salted meats and black olive tapenade. The palate shows really great flavor density and weight with light tannins and smoked meats alongside black olive and blackberry compote. This is downright delicious wine that shows a great acid backbone. Drink 2021-2033- 94