In Memoriam: Margaret Duckhorn, Co-Founder of Duckhorn Vineyards

We have some sad news to share out of the Napa Valley today as Margaret Duckhorn has sadly passed away this weekend at the age of 83. Duckhorn was an iconic and pioneering figure in the modern Napa Valley winemaking era, who played a pivotal role in establishing Merlot as one of North America’s most popular varietal wines. She and her then husband, Dan Duckhorn, founded Duckhorn Vineyards in 1976 and made their inaugural vintage of Napa Valley Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in 1978. Though many Napa Valley wineries were using Merlot as a blending grape in the late seventies, Margaret and Dan believed that this elegant varietal was underappreciated in North America and championed its potential in California as a great standalone wine.

Born on Governor’s Island, New York, Margaret was raised in a military family and traveled widely in her youth. Studying at the University of Maryland campus in Munich, Germany, Margaret first became interested in wine after being exposed to the Mosel region’s distinctive wines. Returning to the United States, Margaret received her B.S., R.N., and P.H.N. degrees from the University of California at San Francisco in 1963. After graduation, she worked as a public health nurse for the city of Berkeley before starting a family in the mid 1960s.

Margaret took an extremely active role in the day-to-day operations of her winery, hand sorting the fruit and working alongside winemaker Tom Rinaldi during blending. Later, Margaret began specializing in marketing and international public relations, becoming a strong voice for Duckhorn Vineyards, and a champion for the Napa Valley winegrowing community. She played a key role in establishing Goldeneye, Paraduxx, Migration, an enhanced Decoy lineup, and Canvasback in Washington State. She was also highly involved on a philanthropic level in her community, and a strong advocate for Napa Valley on an industry-wide level, working both locally and globally to protect and promote the region. She was one of the original members of Women for WineSense, a past board member of the American Institute of Wine & Food, past president of the Napa Valley Vintners Association, and past chairman of the board of California Wine Institute. Margaret was an incredible talent that has helped put the Napa Valley on the international scene. Cheers to Margaret and her beautiful legacy. 🍷

J. Bookwalter

One of the great stories in Washington wine, the Bookwalter family spans ten generations in American agriculture. Jerry Bookwalter, generation nine and father of current company president John Bookwalter, decided to venture into viticulture. A UC-Davis grad, Jerry spent 13 years farming in California’s San Joaquin Valley before moving his family in 1976 to the Tri-Cities in Washington State. From 1976 through 1982, Jerry helped manage the plantings of three famed Washington vineyards – Sagemoor, Bacchus and Dionysus. He eventually became vineyard manager of the Conner Lee Vineyard and in 1982, he started J. Bookwalter Winery. John Bookwalter had a 10-year sales and marketing career with E&J Gallo, Winterbrook Beverage Group and Coors Brewing Co before returning to Richland in 1997 to focus on his family winery.

For years they utilized the talents of winemaker Caleb Foster who helped grow production and crafted many downright killer red and white wines over the years. In summer 2021 Jeremy Santo came to Bookwalter as head winemaker. Prior to this job he served as head winemaker for Mercer Estates Winery from 2017 to 2021.  I love the new wines across the board. A killer new value is the 2021 J. Bookwalter ‘Readers’ White Wine (OB, 90) which completely over-delivers for the price. I absolutely adored the 2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Chapter 11’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which impresses with its concentration and underlying finesse, with dense dark fruits. Learn more about this historic Washington winery at https://www.bookwalterwines.com Here are my reviews of the beautiful new J. Bookwalter wines. 

2021 J. Bookwalter ‘Readers’ Sauvignon Blanc- Lithe and fresh, this offers sweet pink grapefruit and green papaya notes with good tension. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2026- 89

2021 J. Bookwalter ‘Readers’ White Wine- A blend of 80% Chardonnay with the remainder Viognier, this offers white peach and juicy pear tones that combine with vanilla cream on the palate. Enjoy this great value over the next several years. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Readers’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Very soft on the mouth, this shows light to medium-bodied dark chocolate with sweetened blackberry and black cherry notes. Drink 2022-2026- 88

2021 J. Bookwalter ‘Readers’ Syrah- Coming from the Wahluke Slope, this 2021 Syrah shows off smoked brisket with tar and coffee grounds on the nose. Very approachable and coming off a touch sweet, enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2022-2026- 88

2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Conflict’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Conflict’ Red Wine blends 56% Merlot and 32% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Very fresh and soft once on the mouth, this shows off light dill and red cherry candy flavors alongside dusty tannins and loads of bright acidity. This is really good to enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Protagonist’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Protagonist’ comes mostly from the Connor Lee Vineyard, as well as the Dionysus and Elephant Mountain Vineyards. Aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak this delivers a soft mouthfeel with rich red and dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and dusty soils on the palate. Drink 2022-2034- 92

2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Suspense’ Red Wine- The brilliant 2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Suspense’ Red Wine is a juicy and inviting effort that is already nicely evolved. Once on the nose this takes on layers of red raspberry and red rose petals that combine with espresso grounds and suggestions of Earl Grey tea. The palate is very approachable with its forward core of red and dark fruits with milk chocolate and herbal undertone notes. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Fourth Edition’ White Wine- One of the very cool and unique blends that you will find in Washington State, the ‘Fourth Edition’ by J. Bookwalter blends 57% Semillon, with smaller parts Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Sourced from the Connor Lee Vineyard, this offers a soft mouthfeel, with banana, lychee, white grapefruit and cashew nut flavors alongside a seamless texture. Rich and concentrated, enjoy at a warmer temperature to take in the gorgeous flavor range. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Volume Ten’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Entirely sourced from the Dionysus Vineyard, the 2020 ‘Volume Ten’ was stored for 20 months in 80% new French oak before bottling. Dried herbs with boysenberry and suggestions of baking spices all mark the nose. The palate is rich and decadent with a great mineral backbone. Finishing long with copious minerals, chocolate and black fruits, this is delicious, well-structured Cabernet Sauvignon that is best enjoyed now and over the next fourteen years. Drink 2022-2036- 93

2020 J. Bookwalter  ‘Chapter 11’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Chapter 11’ comes from the Connor Lee Vineyard and has 5% both Syrah and Cabernet Franc blended in. Stored for 20 months in 60% new French oak, this shows off black tea and exotic spices alongside roasted dates and shades of creosote on the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with mocha, tar and tobacco leaf flavors alongside a wall of intense dark fruits. This is delicious wine that is already starting to hit its stride. Drink 2022-2037- 94

2020 J. McLarnin Red Wine- Equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah coming from the Connor Lee Vineyard, this wine was named after one of the most famous welterweight boxers of all time. The wine is really stunning and deep, with a vibrant core of minerality. Rich black currants with creosote, Turkish coffee, and creme de violette flavors all brilliantly combine, with light tannins holding everything in place. Showing a luxurious texture, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2037- 95

2016 J. McLarnin Red Wine- The 2016 J. McLarmin is a gorgeous showing now at the six year mark. The wine is already wonderfully evolved on the palate. Caramel covered chocolate brownie, black cherry cordial, Arabica bean and Asian spices all come together seamlessly, with good underlying tension. Finishing long with ripe dark fruits and minerals, this is a downright stunning new bottling that is best enjoyed now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 95

Kerloo Cellars

For years I have admired the wines of Kerloo Cellars. Owner/head winemaker Ryan Crane focuses on boutique style of winemaking involves crafting very precise, small production, single vineyard bottlings that are very old-world, with limited oak usage. Many years ago Ryan got his start at Animale Cellars in Seattle, and then later trained under Marie-Eve Gilla at Forgeron Cellars while completing his degree in Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College. These are wines that show great finesse with rich fruit flavors and wonderful terroir. Ryan also has a deft touch for Rose and white wines.

I adored his 2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘Upland Vineyard’ Grenache (OB, 95) which iis one of the finest wines I have tasted from this portfolio. The wine has nothing short of insanely good flavor and aromatic range and will thrill anyone who loves Washington Grenache. I also adored the new 2021 Kerloo Cellars ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay’ (OB, 93) which is very fresh and racy with a soft mouthfeel and good length. d Learn more about this outstanding winery at www.kerloocellars.com. Here are the great new releases by the talented Ryan Crane and his Kerloo Cellars.

2021 Kerloo Cellars ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The really good 2021 ‘Cello Vineyard’ Chardonnay saw four months of battonage. Roasted hazelnuts with lemon zest and dusted brioche fill the nose, with suggestions of white peach. The palate is very seamless and soft, as this shows both a great sense of tension, mouth-watering acidity and brilliant stony undertones. This is very old-world and would easily pass for a world-class Montrachet. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘Upland Vineyard’ Grenache- Stored in a combination of puncheons and   concrete, as this saw no new French oak before bottling. This shows very pretty and clean with guava puree, green olive tapenade, Mandarin orange rind and suggestions of horse manure. The utterly sensational aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The sensational sense of texture really drives this wine, as does the underlying acidity and salty tones. Complex and delicious, with incredible flavor complexity, this is up there with the finest wines that I have tasted from Ryan Crane and Kerloo Cellars. Drink 2022-2032- 95

2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘The Ninja’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Ninja’ is a knockout blend of Rockgarden Vineyard Mourvèdre with Red Willow Vineyard Syrah, this one of a kind wine shows salted red meats, green olives, blackberry cordial, garrigue and smoldering stones on the nose. The balance on the mouth is impressive. Very salty and savory on the palate, with rich dark fruit flavors, this is a downright delicious Rhone style wine that will impress for any lover of Washington Rhones. Drink 2022-2032- 94

2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘The Legends’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The seriously good 2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘The Legends’ Cabernet Sauvignon combines Red Willow Vineyard and Dionysus Vineyards. This comes off very salty and savory with sagebrush and salted black fruits alongside coffee grounds on the palate. Finishing long with blackberry and minerals, this is delicious wine to consume now and over the next twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 92

2020 Kerloo Cellars ‘Dionysus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Very dusty and earthy, the 2020 ‘Dionysus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new wine that is already beautifully evolved. Stored in 100% new French oak for 24 months and coming from this site very near to the Columbia River, once on the nose this shows dusty soils and garrigue notes alongside milk chocolate and black currants on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. This is very well-balanced with beautiful flavor density. Try to resist this beauty for another year. Drink 2023-2042- 94

Kennedy Cellars

I am always honored to be the first critic to write about great wines. A really exciting new project that merges Victoria, British Columbia with the Napa Valley, Kennedy Cellars was founded in 2018 by Johnathon Kennedy Sipos. Johnathon’s business career was in luxury real estate development, recently having completed one of British Columbia's premiere residential developments in Victoria's inner harbor, the Customs House. There was a certain similarity that captivated Johnathon between luxury development and luxury wine. Both required the same attention to detail, patience, and an uncompromising approach at every step. From the onset Johnathon took a hands on approach to the journey, making the most of his WSET 3 degree, personally travelling extensively through the valley to meet with multiple wine makers, and decided to partner with one of Napas leading custom crush facilities, Bin to Bottle, and two of Napas premiere viticulturists, Oscar Renteria and Mark Neal.

The new wines come from the great 2018 and 2019 vintages. I adored the new 2019 Kennedy Cellars ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) a wine that is extremely smooth and refined once on the mouth. This is a must-buy for any lover of great Carneros Chardonnay. I must admit that I was totally blown away by the 2018 Kennedy Cellars ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is unabashedly bold and full-throttle, with brilliant terroir from this special and unique site. Learn more at https://www.facebook.com/KennedyCellarsInc/ and here are my reviews of the great new Kennedy Cellars wines.

2019 Kennedy Cellars ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay- Golden in the glass, the 2019 ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay delivers a soft mouthfeel with Pink Lady apple, vanilla cream and toasty brioche flavors that combine with the gorgeous length. Consume this beauty over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 93

2018 Kennedy Cellars ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2018 Kennedy Cellars ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored for 28 months in French oak before bottling. Anise, black currant cordial and loamy soils all fill the nose with sweet pipe tobacco accents. The palate is medium to full-bodied with very refined tannins and a silky entry once on the attack. The combination of perfumed red and dark fruits really make this sing. Enjoy this well-balanced beauty over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2018 Kennedy Cellars ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Every bit as good as the ‘Howell Mountain’ bottling, the 2018 Kennedy Cellars ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon was also stored in French oak for 28 months and comes from 25 year old vines. Very inky once in the glass, this shows gorgeous aromatic range from black rose petals to creme de violette, tar, pencil lead and freshly tilled soils. The palate is very concentrated but shows a brilliant acid backbone, with very soft tannins framing everything brilliantly. Enjoy this beautiful wine in its heady youth and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2036- 95

Ram's Gate

Ram’s Gate

A few weeks back enjoyed a lively Zoom call with Ram’s Gate winemakerJoe Nielsen, who has been now at the helm for five vintages. He has been slowly creating his own program to have wines that show a more Chablisesque profile with slightly less oak influence in the wines. 2020 brought a mixed bag of wines due to the fires that occurred in early September. This was a great challenge that winemakers in Sonoma and Napa had never seen, as Nielsen mentioned “We picked a lot before the fires and were very careful about picking after the fires. We did lose a lot of stuff unfortunately. We brought in 30-40% of what I anticipated and the vintage was small as well. Some of the production numbers are tiny but quality is nice.” He continued “We are starting to have enough vintages to look at verticals. 2020 as a vintage is really pretty, contrary to the commentary that I have heard of the vintage. Grapes are concentrated, fresh and precise.”

He has been working on dialing down the oak influence in the wines, yet has been using a smilier amount of new French oak. He stated “That [process] comes across as more linear on the palate and more texture” he said.

I loved the new 2020 Ram’s Gate ‘El Diablo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is fresh and lively with salty undertones. Just as good is the gorgeous 2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is deep and concentrated with some good aging potential. Learn more about this great winery at ramsgatewinery.com and here are my reviews of the new Ram’s Gate wines.

2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Cellar Note’ Chardonnay- The 2020 ‘Cellar Note’ is a vintage cuvee which was made from 13 barrels. The nose shows off butterscotch, lemon oil and ripe pineapple notes with suggestions of salted cashew nut. The palate is soft and refined with a light underlying salinity that combines with the good tension. Finishing long, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2028- 91

2020 Ram’s Gate ‘El Diablo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2020 Ram’s Gate ‘El Diablo Vineyard’ Chardonnay comes from this warmer site on Eastside Road on the Russian River Valley.  Utilizing Montrachet and Robert Young clinical selections, this was stored in 30% new French oak prior to bottling. The nose is gorgeous with orange blossom and lemon rind dusted brioche with shades of juicy papaya. The palate is ripe and beautifully textured, showing outstanding length and lovely fresh pastry crust, kumquat zest and stony minerals, this is drinking beautifully now and will continue to evolve well for another ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Hyde Vineyard’ is one of the most famous sites in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley and Ram’s Gate has been sourcing from this site since the 2012 vintage, as this was stored in 35% new French oak before bottling. On the nose this takes on ripe white peach and Pazzaz apple tones that combine with caramel topped brioche. Generous and layered, with a downright killer vintage, the 2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay will live on for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Cellar Note’ Pinot Noir- Winemaker Joe Nielson made 15 barrels of this Pinot Noir from three different Sonoma Coast vineyards.  This comes off very clean and pretty. The nose shows off cran-cola tones alongside white pepper, Mandarin orange zest and peat moss accents. The salty character really shines in this downright delicious Pinot Noir. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 91

2020 Ram’s Gate ‘El Diablo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Picked in early August, this is sourced from two separate clonal selections in the ‘El Diablo Vineyard.’ Stored for 16 months in 33% new French oak, the nose takes on layers of ripe red cherry with red rose petals, cinnamon sticks and suggestions of forest floor. The palate is jam-packed of tart red fruits that combine with wet stone, kumquat zest and loads of mouth-watering acidity. Broad-shouldered and generous, this is gorgeous Pinot Noir to consume now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Bush Crispo Vineyard’ PInot Noir- The ‘Bush Crispo Vineyard’ is a small, 4 acre vineyard entirely sourced from Ram’s Gate, located on River Road, not far from Martinelli Vineyard. The vineyard is planted to two clones (115 and Pommard) of Pinot Noir that create very small, concentered clusters. The wine is soft and round on the mouth, with a smooth texture. Very juicy red fruit flavors combine with exotic spices, blood orange zest and suggestions of wild mushroom on the palate. Drink 2022-2034- 92

2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2020 Ram’s Gate ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir comes from this windy and cooler site in the Carneros AVA. Soils here are low-vigor and vines tend to be shut down by pressure from the high winds which leads to very concentrated berries. Given 25% whole cluster fermentation the nose shows toasty oak with ripe guava and salmonberry notes alongside salted citrus rind. The palate is very fresh and focused with a smooth texture and bright acidity. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2035- 93

Prospice Wines

Don’t sleep on this relatively new spot in the Airport District of Walla Walla. A winery that seems to just get better and better, Prospice Wines was founded several years back by Jay Krutulis and Matt Reilly. They both have quite diverse backgrounds. Jay studied Biology in college and Neuroscience in graduate school before embarking on nearly 20 years of studying and practicing corporate law. Jay's entry into law was inspired by visits to Woodinville area while working for Amazon. He is a graduate of the Walla Walla Community College Enology & Viticulture Program at Walla Walla Community College and has served as cellarmaster for Tranche. Matt lived in Spokane and worked harvests for Barrister Winery, and after a cross country stint moved back to eastern Washington where he also graduated from the WWCC Enology and Viticulure program. Matt has worked at Mark Ryan Winery and has served as cellarmaster at Gramercy Cellars. The winery sources from some exciting vineyards including Les Collines, Resurgent and Gamache Vineyards. I think that these wines continue to improve in terms of structure, weight and flavor complexity.

A downright killer value is the new 2020 Prospice Wines ‘GSM’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is showing great range and structure and over-delivers for the price. I adored the new 2020 Prospice Wines ‘Resurgent Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 93) which has a lovely flinty character and offers great finesse and a pretty core of red fruits Learn more about this exciting new winery at https://prospice.wine Here are they great new wines by Prospice Wines. 

2020 Prospice Wines ‘GSM’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘GSM’ reveals plenty of Christmas spice with bright red fruits, copious minerals and orange zest flavors. The stony accents add to the enjoyment as this killer value is best consumed now and over the next six years. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2020 Prospice Wines ‘Resurgent Vineyard’ Syrah- Sourced from this site set on ancient cobblestones, the ‘Resurgent Vineyard’ Syrah offers black olive tapenade, smoked meats and coffee grounds on the nose, with bright red fruits. The palate is very fresh and nuanced, with good balance and finesse that combine with the ripe red and dark fruit flavors. Drink 2022-2028- 93

2020 Prospice Wines ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- A superb new Syrah, the 2020 Prospice Wines ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah offers garrigue notes alongside huckleberry, black cherry and cigar box notes, with stony undertones. Enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2019 Prospice Wines Merlot- The 2019 Prospice Wines Merlot shows off a very pretty nose with milk chocolate covered cherry, loamy soils and suggestions of thyme. The palate is fresh and concentrated, with a brilliant purity of red fruits. This is sure to satisfy any lover of Washington Merlot with its density and finesse. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2019 Prospice Wines ‘Phinny Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- Coming from this site in the Horse Heaven Hills, this offers high-toned red rose petals with red bell pepper, sandalwood and suggestions of boysenberry. The palate is soft and lovely once on the mouth, as silky tannins restrain a core of red and dark fruits. Refined, elegant and seriously good, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

2019 Prospice Wines ‘BDX’ Red Wine- Mostly Merlot (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), this shows off forward and juicy black fruit flavors (blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry) with suggestions of baking spices, and pencil lead on the palate. Drink this great value now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Prospice Wines ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The really good 2019 ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon unveils dried herbs, blackberry compote, anise and suggestions of black tea on the nose. The palate is plush and highly nuanced, with herbal and earthy tones that all add to the brilliant core of dark fruits. Finishing long, this is outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon that is already beautifully evolved — and willl continue to shine on for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2019 Prospice Wines ‘Phinny Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2019 Prospice Wines ‘Phinny Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a terrific effort from this slightly cooler vintage in the Horse Heaven Hills. On the nose this shows off loganberry tones alongside garrigue and loamy soil tones. The palate is very fresh and finesse-driven, with copious minerals and bright red fruit flavors. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2018 Prospice Wines ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The finest wine of the new lineup, the 2018 Prospice Wines ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is truly singing and shows off this warm site on Red Mountain. The gorgeous bouquets of black currant jelly, scorched earth, graphite and tar all bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. Texturally this is very gratifying with a fantastic underlying finesse and fine-grained tannins. This is seamless, elegant wine that is already nicely evolved and will live on for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Mirror Napa Valley

Former Seattle Seahawk quarterback Rick Mirer was always drawn to Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Mirer is easily one of the most illustrious high school quarterbacks in Indiana state history, and was awarded the Academy of Achievement Award as the top high school football player in the country in 1989, as well as the Atlanta Touchdown Club's Bobby Dodd Award as the nation's best high school quarterback. At Notre Dame, Mirer was just as good, winning three bowl games and accounting for more points running and throwing (350) than any other player in Notre Dame history. 

He came to the NFL joining a very poor Seattle Seahawks team. Yet Mirer finished his rookie season 5th in the AFC with 274 completions and 2833 yards and was AFC Rookie of the Year by United Press International. Mirer’s remaining seasons were not as successful in Seattle, being set behind an abysmal offensive line. Having gone to those games in the 1980s, all of us in the stands knew that Mirer was really not given a fair chance with such poor protection. Eventually traded to the Chicago Bears in 1997, Mirer continued to play as a backup quarterback until 2004. 

Intimate friends with Drew Bledsoe, and drafted right behind him in 1993, Mirer admits that his friendship with Bledsoe helped lead him to start Mirror Napa Valley. Bledsoe and Mirer even took off-season­ vacation with their wives to Napa Valley. During the off-season they would also try to stump each other with wines from Port or Brunello di Montalcino. It made sense that both quarterbacks would start their wineries post-football. 

While playing for the Raiders and 49ers Rick became even more passionate for wine, being so close to Napa Valley. Finally in 2008 Rick started Mirror Napa Valley, utilizing the winemaking talents of Kirk Venge, formerly of Mumm Napa Valley. Kirk serves as winemaker for several great Napa wineries including B Cellars, Bacio Divino Cellars, Beau Vigne, Entrepreneur Wines, and Hunnicutt Wines. These wines continue to improve. I was floored by the new 2020 Mirror ‘Petaluma Gap’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which has amazing underlying freshness and a smooth texture. Wait for the incredible finish! Even better is the sinfully good 2019 Mirror Cabernet ‘Stagecoach Vineyard’ Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is the finest wine I have tasted from this house. This edition is very concentrated and framed with refined tannins and wonderfully bright acidity.  For more about Rick Mirer’s great winery go to https://www.mirrorwine.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Mirror Napa Valley.

2020 Mirror ‘Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Calesa Vineyard, this seriously good 2020 Chardonnay offers a smooth texture with ripe apricot, honeydew melon, lemon zest dusted brioche and copious baking spices on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with no rough edges, this is refined and very concentrated Chardonnay that is best served on the warmer side. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2019 Mirror ‘Stagecoach Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this famed high-elevation site, the 2019 ‘Stagecoach Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in 70% new French oak barrels for 29 months prior to bottling. A whiff of volcanic soils follows anise, creme de violette and Turkish coffee notes that all impress on the nose. The palate is dark, inky and simply sumptuous in terms of weightlessness and overall texture. Concentrated black and blue fruits parade with coffee ground dusted bitter chocolate and loamy soils on the palate. A mind-bending effort, this will easily live on for two decades. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2019 Mirror ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon-The outstanding 2019 Mirror ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored for 29 months in 70% new French oak before bottling. Aromatically very expressive, this offers sweet black plum with exotic spices alongside creme de cassis notes on the nose. The palate is fresh and shows a bright underlying acidity alongside concentred black and blue fruits, with freshly tilled soils and allspice notes. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 93

Ladera

For years I have admired the wines by Ladera who have been guided for the past two decades by the Stotesbery family. Ladera focus on mountain fruit for the Cabernet Sauvignon wines as well as their Russian River Valley Pillow Road Estate Vineyard for the excellent Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Having decades of experience as ranchers, Pat and Anne Stotesbery acquired their first Napa Valley mountain vineyard in 1996. A few years later in 1999 they founded Ladera, which means “hillside” in Spanish and Italian, and made their debut vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon.

The new wines were beautiful across the board. I was blown away with the new 2018 Ladera ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) which is deep and intense, with incredible concentration and beautiful underlying freshness. This could easily be a 20 year wine. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://laderavineyards.com/ and here are my reviews of the brilliant new wines by Ladera.

2020 Ladera ‘Pillow Road Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The Pillow Road Vineyard is located in the Russian River Valley just southwest of the town of Sebastopol. The wine comes off very fresh and fragrant with no rough edges. Ripe pineapple and mango combine with butterscotch notes and flinty undertones on the palate. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2020 Ladera ‘Pillow Road Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Given 20% whole cluster fermentation, the 2020 Ladera ‘Pillow Road Vineyard’ Pinot Noir delivers beautiful black tea and potpourri aromas that combine with silty soils on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with light tannins that frame a core of red and dark fruits. Drink 2022-2027- 90

2018 Ladera ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from sites on Howell Mountain as well as Atlas Peak, Pritchard Hill and Calistoga, the 2018 ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored for 22 months in 81% new French oak before bottling. Black licorice, iodine and pencil lead notes combine with rich huckleberry tones on the palate. Delicious and beaming with bright acidity, savor this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2038- 93

Ramey Wine Cellars

Last Friday I enjoyed an hour with wine legend, David Ramey. It has been a year since we had met and we spoke at length about his new Chardonnays. “2020 was a really good vintage and a lot of people don’t know that” he said. “We had near perfect weather before the smoke came” he explained.

I was there during the heat of the fires that year and I witnessed the devastation firsthand. Ramey said that he fortunately had few lots that were affected by the smoke that year. His Chardonnays were very clean and mineral-driven — they were beautiful wines with no smoke impact. Over the past few years he has been dialing back oak influence in his wines, using less and less new French oak. His Chardonnays show good stuffing but also a wonderful level of tension.

There is good reason why Ramey has been named one of the Chardonnay masters of the world. I adored the new 2020 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Fort Ross-Seaview’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is wonderfully salty and fresh, beautifully showcasing this site near the Pacific Ocean. One of the great Chardonnay wines that I have tasted in the past year, the 2019 Ramey Wine Cellars ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) is intense and flavorful with a silky mouthfeel and wonderful elegance. The finish just won’t quit!  Learn more at rameywinecellars.com and here are my reviews of the outstanding new wines by David Ramey.

2020 Ramey ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2020 Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay spent twelve months on the lees and barrel (10% new). Mostly sourced from the Westside Farms Vineyard (45%) as well as the Dutton and Frank Johnson Vineyards, right away this opens with brioche bread with shades of cardamom and allspice, alongside ripe cantaloupe. The palate is very fresh, with a sterling tension that runs through the brilliant core of melon and citrus fruits, with an electric and very lengthy finish. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Ramey ‘Fort Ross-Seaview’ Chardonnay- Stored in only 15% new French oak, this shows salty and tangy, the 2020 Ramey ‘Fort Ross-Seaview’ Chardonnay comes from the Martinelli Charles Ranch Vineyard, which is set on the second ridge in from the Pacific Ocean. This offers salted pear and Challah bread notes with copious baking spices on the nose. The palate is filled with mouth-watering acidity and tension that brings you back to the glass for more salty and savory enjoyment. This is very difficult to put down. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Ramey ‘Woolsey Road Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Dense on the palate, the Woolsey Road Vineyard’ comes form a site that is located immediately south from the Martinelli winery. The Chardonnay was planted by the Martinellis for David Ramey back in the mid-2000s. This Wente Clonal selection Chardonnay was stored in 24% new French oak for 20 months before bottling. Big on the mouth, this offers ripe banana and suggestions of papaya flavors, with strong flinty underpinnings. Finishing exceedingly long, enjoy this beauty now and over the next decade. Drink 2022-2034- 95

2020 Ramey ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Talk about a world-class Chardonnay, the 2020 Ramey ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a mouth-watering, intense and satisfying journey from the beginning to the end. Old Wente and Calera clonal selections, this runs the gamut of flavors — from tropical and melon fruits, to suggestions of salted Macadamia nut and wet stone — all leading to the exceedingly long, and very gratifying finish. Don’t serve this too cool! Drink 2022-2036- 96

2020 Ramey ‘Westside Farms’ Chardonnay- Also very dense, the 2020 Ramey ‘Westside Farms’ Chardonnay (Clone 4) was stored for 18 months in concrete eggs before bottling. Immediately gratifying this offers cardamom dusted banana bread and salty soil flavors alongside suggestions of roasted pineapple, with nutty accents on the palate. Very smooth throughout the drinking experience, the seamless texture impresses. Full-bodied, with plenty of finesse, enjoy now and over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2022-2036- 95

2018 Ramey ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- This is now the fifth vintage of this stunning  ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir offers beautiful balance from this warm vintage. Stored in roughly 50% new French oak for 18 months, on the mouth the soft mouthfeel immediately entices. Layers of cran-cola, cedar, wintergreen and tart strawberry with morel mushroom all combine with copious minerals on the palate. Very layered, the exceptionally long finish adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2017 Ramey ‘Cooley Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Ramey ‘Cooley Ranch’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a cooler site that is located in the northern corner of Sonoma County. This ranch encompasses thousands of acres and is very remote. This is quite simply a stunning new wine by David Ramey. On the nose this takes on red bell pepper with blackberry compote and underbrush notes alongside shades of pencil lead. The combination of concentration, mouthfeel and finesse is outstanding. Very well balanced, with tar, mocha, anise and shades of loamy soils. The stony element of the wine really impresses. Give this at least an hour in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2022-2038- 95

2018 Ramey ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Franc- This 2018 Cabernet Franc comes from a stony, tighly-spaced vineyard which is near Rudd Winery. Given 100% new French oak for 22 months this offers incredible black and blue fruits with suggestions of Turkish coffee on the nose. The palate is massive and round, with a seamless mouthfeel. Finishing very long, give this at least another year in the bottle for this to fully come together. There is incredible potential here. Drink 2023-2042- 95

The Devil Is A Liar

One of the unique wine brands in Washington State, The Devil Is A Liar (TDIAL) was created by winemaker Seth Kitzke to be an ultra-premium label that focuses on wines made from WeatherEye Vineyard fruit. Seth has made quite a name for himself with his beautiful and also very well-priced wines under his label UpsideDown Wine, which is wife Audrey helps run as well. TDIAL wines are geared to display intensity and flamboyance — they are not for the weary. I think that they beautifully showcase this site, which is set high on the northern slope of Red Mountain.

A new wine that is sensational new, the 2019 The Devil is A Liar ‘Shooting In The Gym’ Grenache (OB, 94) is very brooding in the glass as it displays very pretty red fruits with lots of earthy nuance. Even better is the 2019 ‘The Devil Is A Liar’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which is a super unique field blend and has downright killer aromatics and sensational mouthfeel and tension. This beauty belongs in the cellar of any serious collector of Washington Wine. Learn more at http://thedevilisaliarwine.com and here are my reviews of the new TDIAL wines.

2019 The Devil is A Liar ‘Shooting In The Gym’ Grenache- Sourced from mostly block 15 in the WeatherEye Vineyard, this had 70% whole cluster fermentation before being stored in neutral oak (second use) before bottling. Very pure and pretty on the nose with guava puree, red currants, yarrow and shades of blood orange zest all combine on the nose. The palate is very refined and soft with silky tannins that line a core of beautiful red fruits with Mandarin orange zest and red rose water accents. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2019 The Devil Is A LIar ‘The Devil Is A Liar’ Red Wine- A field blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Viognier, this shows off beautiful white florals from the Grenache with worn leather, red cherry, cigar ash, green peppercorns and smoked meats on the nose. The palate is soft and seamless, with great viscosity and verve, alongside a serious underlying mouth-watering acidity. This is complex, novel and delicious, one of a kind, wine. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 95

Epoch

It has now been many years since I first tasted the wines made by the talented Jordan Fiorentini. Fiorentini has an Ivy League background and has now been at the Epoch helm for more than a decade. The wines she crafts show good depth and concentration but brilliant underlying finesse and terroir from the very stony and marine-soiled sites that she sources from. There is very good reason that Phillipe Melka began making a Syrah from the same site. Regardless of the vintage Fiorentini crafts wines that display power and poise — tell a story with a beginning, middle and an end.

I adored the new wines which come mostly from the 2018 vintage.  Do not sleep on the 2018 Epoch ‘Authenticity’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which is powerful and deep, showing great cellaring potential. Learn more about these outstanding wines at epochwines.com. Here are the great new wines by Epoch.

2021 Epoch White Wine- A combination of mainly Grenache Blanc (47%) and Viognier (39%) with smaller parts Roussanne, the outstanding 2021 Epoch White Wine is another killer Rhone style blend by winemaker Jordan Fiorentini. On the nose this takes on honeysuckle and white peach notes that combine with flint  and suggestions of Pink Lady apple. The palate is soft and refined, with great length, as this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2018 Epoch ‘Authenticity’ Red Wine- A sultry blend of 90% Syrah with the remainder Mourvèdre all sourced from the Paderewski Vineyard, this spent nineteen months in 77% new feench oak barrels before bottling. This comes off dense and has a weightless effect mid-palate. Ripe boysenberry preserves, cigar ash and scorched earth notes combine with bright acidity on the palate. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 95

2018 Epoch ‘Block B’ Syrah- 100% varietal, this hails from the Paderewski Vineyard and sent nineteen months in 82% new French oak prior to bottling. Very inky in the glass, this shows off violets and black currant jelly alongside dark chocolate shavings on the nose. The more warmed up this get, the black florals both on the nose and mouth really begin to sing their high octane. Finishing long with rich dark fruits and copious minerals, this is exceptionally balanced, deeply concentrated Syrah that has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2038- 96

2018 Epoch Tempranillo- Exceedingly dark considering the varietal, the 2018 Epoch Tempranillo has a small portion of Graciano, Syrah and Grenache co-fermented in, as this comes from Paderewski Vineyard and was stored in French oak for 29 months before bottling. Forward and juicy, his possess a great mineral backbone and firm tannins that hold everything together nicely. Rich dark fruits parade with milk chocolate and smoked brisket notes on the palate. This might be the first Tempranillo made in California. Drink 2022-2035- 95

2019 Epoch ‘Veracity’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Veracity’ blends 44% Mourvèdre with 43% Grenache and the remainder Syrah. Sourced from the Catapult and Paderewski Vineyards, this shows off beautiful red rose petals with cigar box, baking spices and suggestions of red currant preserves on the nose. The palate is very fresh and polished with a silky mouthfeel and beautiful core of red and dark fruits that greet you. Give this an hour of air if enjoying now. Drink 2022-2036- 95

2019 Epoch ‘Sensibility’ Red Wine- The outstanding, 100% varietal 2019 Epoch ‘Sensibility’ shows everything you would like in a great Paso Robles Grenache. Red cherry candy, kumquat rind, red raspberry and red rose water flavors all combine with the stony and mineral-driven undertones on the palate. Enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 95

Cadence

For years I have admired the novel, age worthy Bordeaux style wines by Ben Smith (http://owenbargreen.com/benjamin-smith-cadence) Together with his wife Gaye McNutt now for over twenty years Cadence has been producing some great wines with good aging potential. Having recently tried some of these wines from the 1990s, it is incredible how they can cellar and retain their acidity. Their wines display rich dark fruits and a structure that affords decades of aging. These are wines that need a good deal of air upon release, and if enjoying in their youth a one to two hour decant is highly recommended. Ben and Gaye also both own their own vineyard in Red Mountain, the Cara Mia Vineyard, where most of their wines come from. I’ve enjoyed tasting these wines at the ten year mark where they seem to start collecting secondary characteristics.

I loved the new releases, from the somewhat challenging 2019 vintage that saw a major frost event in early October. Don’t miss out on the killer new 2020 Cadence ‘Coda’ Red Wine (OB, 92) which is a downright killer value and is jam-packed with dark fruits. I adored the 2019 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which might be the fLearn more about this great winery at cadencewinery.com  and here are my reviews of the the beautiful new wines by Cadence.

2020 Cadence ‘Coda’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Coda’ is a beautiful value red blend by Ben Smith. A blend of 50% Cabernet Franc with 45% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot all sourced from the Cara Mia Vineyard, this weighs in at 14.5% alcohol. Very clean and herbal on the nose with sagebrush and scorched earthy accents alongside ripe red cherry notes. The palate is soft and inviting with a silky texture and lovely depth and complexity. Let this outstanding value sit for 20 minutes in the decanter before serving. Drink 2022-20232- 92

2019 Cadence ‘Tapteil Vineyard’ Red Wine- The ‘Tapteil Vineyard’ is a site that will no longer be utilized by Cadence following the vineyard sale. Ben Smith has sourced from this site since 1998 and this is the final vintage of this storied Washington wine. For my palate this has to be one of the finest — if not the finest — renditions of this wine. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with 28% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Merlot, this was stored in 40% new French oak prior to bottling. Black rose petals and toasty oak notes combine with tar, anise and shades of loganberry jelly. The palate is seamless and soft, showing an incredible elegance and the flavor density is outstanding considering the challenges of the vintage. Every moving part seems to fit just marvelously here, as the outstanding 2019 ‘Tapteil’ will cellar on for another two decades. Give this a one hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2022-2038- 95

2019 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Camerata’ blends 58% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot all sourced from the Cara Mia Vineyard. Aged in 50% new French oak this offers Asian spices and blackberry compote on the nose with suggestions of freshly tilled volcanic soils and a light dusting of black pepper. The palate is silky smooth and refined, with light tannins that frame a gorgeous core of red and dark fruits. This is elegant Red Mountain that will sure to satisfy a wide range of critics and consumers alike. Be sure to give this at least one hour in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2022-2038- 95

2019 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Bel Canto’ is a stunning new Right Bank-inspired red blend from Red Mountain. Utilizing 83% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Merlot, this was stored in 50% new French oak (Taransaud, Darnajou and Gamba barrels) before bottling. The pretty red florals immediately capitative as potpourri and freshly picked red raspberry aromas combine with suggestions of creosote, black currants and allspice. The palate is soft and very inviting upon approach, showing very silky tannins. A glorious range of red and dark fruits, with cocoa powder and suggestions of pencil lead. Very seamless, this is a stunning new wine that is truly one of the best of its kind in the state. Enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen to twenty years and give it an hour in the decanter if savoring in its vibrant youth. Drink 2022-2040- 96

In Memoriam: A Washington Wine Visionary, Allen Shoup

A sad day in the Washington Wine Industry today as we mourn the loss of Washington wine visionary, Allen Shoup. For years Allen served as CEO for Chateau Ste. Michelle, helping start iconic projects such as Col Solare and Eroica, before leaving to start his own winery, Long Shadows Vintners in 2002. Allen died in his home of natural causes on November 7, 2022 at the age of 79.

I have had the great pleasure to interview this incredible man a few years back. His wit and intelligence were second to none. Allen was kind, pragmatic and an incredible innovator in our industry. He will be greatly be missed. Cheers to you, Allen, and your incredible life accomplishments.

Benom

One of the vibrant wine projects in Paso Robles, Benom focuses on a range of red wines, as well as a killer white and rose, that show great poise and depth from this warm region. Benom Wines was founded by two Frenchmen, Arnaud and Guillaume Fabre. Benom is named after the phonetic translation of the French word binôme, which translates to "a project together." They are brothers, they are French, and for them making wine is a heritage. Guillaume, moved to California to pursue a career as a winemaker, and began making wine for one of the great brands of Paso Robles, L’Aventure. He then started Clos Selene which was met with serious critical acclaim.  it was his love of winemaking and farming without limit(s) that brought him to Paso Robles. Arnaud, on the other hand, moved to California to follow his beloved Chloe. 

Their wines are even named after each other, two brothers -‘Les Deux Freres,’ which is an intense blend made from Grenache, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Fabre family originates from both the Languedoc-Roussillon and Bordeaux regions in France, as the brothers have a longstanding family history in the wine industry. I was enamored by the new wines by Benom. Their new 2021 Benom ‘Contrast’ White Wine (OB, 93) is a stunning blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This oozes texture and has a wonderful mineral backbone as I am not sure you will find anything quite like this in North America! Do not sleep on the sinfully good and very novel 2020 Benom ‘Les Deux Freres’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which is dense, chewy, and very bold, showing earthy accents from the Tempranillo. Check out more about this outstanding winery project at https://www.benomwines.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new wines by Benom.

2021 Benom ‘Contrast’ White Wine- A very unusual blend for the region of 76% Chardonnay with the remainder Sauvignon Blanc, the 2021 ‘Contrast’ comes from the Santa Maria, Edna Valley, Adelaida AVAs. Stored for six months in a small portion of new French oak (30%) this unveils freshly cut grass with cantaloupe and pastry crust aromatics. The palate is very fresh and beautifully textured with a downright killer combination of weight and finesse. Finishing very long, enjoy this truly novel, outstanding white wine over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2029- 93

2021 Benom ‘L’Essor’ Rose- The 2021 ‘L’Essor’ is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache that was sourced from the John Wolf, Coakley, and Gateway Vineyards. Stored in stainless steel before bottling, this very Provence-colored Rose unveils delicate honeydew melon and green papaya notes alongside white rose and pomegranate seed tones. Soft and inviting on the mouth, this shows both a great veil of tension and light dusting of salinity that adds to the enjoyment. This is highly refined and gratifying Rose that is best consumed now and over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2020 Benom ‘Origin’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon bottling is a sensational new release from this somewhat challenging vintage. An inky core greets you, with chocolate covered coffee bean, black currants, creosote and very refined tannins. The underlying freshness is fantastic, as is the weight, as this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 95

2020 Benom ‘Les Deux Freres’ Red Wine- The 2020 Benom ‘Les Deux Freres’ Red Wine is a compelling blend of Grenache (54%) with smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. Very pretty red rose petals combine with dark currants and suggestions of baking spices. The palate is silky smooth and beautifully textured, with a great combination of weight and underly finesse, with earthy accents. Drink this beauty now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2022-2037- 94

2020 Benom ‘Lapsus’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Lapsus’ is a great blend of 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Graciano with the reminder Mourvèdre and Syrah. The beautiful black florals mark the nose with black tea and wild blackberries. The palate is soft and inviting with good richness and a soft mouthfeel. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Ashan

One of the premier producers of Washington Chardonnay, Ashan was built by Chris Gorman, who has now been in the industry for decades. Ashan is a deep and intense style of Chardonnay that is not made for the weary. These wines scream texture and weight — especially in warm vintages. They are also remarkably consistent. As a regional comparison, think Washington meets Sonoma.

For years I have admired wines from the Connor Lee and Cold Creek Vineyards. Both are old-vine plantings of Chardonnay and the Cold Creek was first established by Chateau Ste. Michelle back in the early 1970s. Wines from the Cold Creek and Connor Lee Vineyards seem to thrive both in cooler and warm vintages. I fondly remember the 2015 Cold Creek by Ste. Michelle, which is ripe and unctuous but had a great mineral backbone despite the heat of the vintages. Chris Gorman has crafted his new wines from the warm 2021 vintage — one that saw a very early harvest for Chardonnay. Do not miss out on the gorgeous new 2021 Ashan ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is very ripe and delicious, with serious flavor range. Learn more about these great wines at ashancellars.com and here are my reviews of the brand new 2021 Ashan wines.

2021 Ashan ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2021 Ashan ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay offers intense peach and apricot flavors with shades of brioche and light flinty tones with a light mineral backbone. This is extremely ripe and will appeal to those who want a bigger style of Washington Chardonnay. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2021 Ashan ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Ripe and intense, the 2021 Ashan ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay delivers unctuous orchard and citrus fruits with butterscotch, toasty brioche on the palate. The flavor complexity here is exceedingly good. Finishing very long, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2021 Ashan ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The famed ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ is a historic Washington famed site which was first planted in the 1970s. The palate is ripe and intense with layers of roasted hazelnuts, banana, roasted pineapple and mango. Finishing very long, this has a light salinity that adds to the enjoyment. This is about as close as you can get to Sonoma from this state. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

Clos Solene

One of the finest producers in Paso Robles, Clos Solene is a beautiful tale fueled by the love of two people who founded this outstanding winery. Guillaume Fabre met the love of his life, Solene Fabre and they both eventually settled in Paso Robles. Fast forward to today, the Fabre Family is now a family of five: Clémentine (their oldest daughter), Jean (their middle son), and Juliette (their youngest daughter). Guillaume has named all his favorite wines after his children – Sweet Clémentine, Cuvée Jean and the arrival of Cuvée Juliette in 2019. After purchasing an estate in 2017, the family lives at the farmhouse on the property, as their boutique winery lies the west side of Paso Robles in the heart of the Willow Creek District.

I loved the range of wines that they produced. Dont miss out on the sinfully good 2020  Clos Solene ‘Cuvee Jean’ Syrah (OB, 96) which has a touch of Viognier blended in for lift. This inky, delicious wine is a stunning example of the flavor density but also bright acidity that Paso Robles can bring. Learn more about these beautiful new wines at https://www.clossolene.com Here are the outstanding new release wines by Clos Solene.

2020 Clos Solene ‘Fleur de Solene’ Red Wine- The 2020 Clos Solene ‘Fleur de Solene’ Red Wine blends mainly Syrah (52%) with smaller portions Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is very dense and decadent, with a great acid backbone. Layers of tar, garrigue, black currant jelly, and suggestions of loamy soils all brilliantly meld on the palate. Gratifying now in its full-bodied youth, savor this beauty over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2020 Clos Solene ‘Harmonie’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Harmonie’ utilizes mostly Grenache (72%) with small portions Mourvèdre and Syrah. A ripe core of red fruits mingle with clove dusted Mandarin orange zest, green olives, and smoked pork shoulder notes on the palate. Finishing long, with good weight and verve, this brilliant GSM inspired wine will drink well for another decade. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2020 Clos Solene ‘Cuvee Jean’ Syrah- The deeply colored 2020 ‘Cuvee Jean’ has 3% Viognier blended in. Sourced from the Santa Maria Valley, this offers lemon blossom with black currant cordial, espresso grounds and scorched earth notes on the nose. The palate shows great underlying acidity with serious weight, displaying a massive wall of dark fruit flavors. Finishing long with loads of mouth-watering acidity, this beauty is already showing brilliantly. Drink 2022-2036- 96

2020 Clos Solene ‘L’Insolent’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘L’Insolent’ combines Cabernet Sauvignon (71%) and a large portion of Petit Verdot (20%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc. Coming all from Paso Robles, the wine shows green bell pepper notes with huckleberry compote, mocha and tar aromas. The palate is very fresh and lithe, with a polished texture and serious weight. While obviously big, the underlying finesse really drives this wine. Give this an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2022-2037- 95

2020 Close Solene ‘Hommage A Nos Pairs Reserve’ Red Wine- The gorgeous, very inky’Hommage A Nos Pairs Reserve’ Red Wine is a stunning blend of nearly all Syrah (96%) with equal parts Viognier and Grenache. Extremely concentrated dark fruits greet you on the palate, with a silky mouthfeel. Mocha, tar, huckleberry compote, garrigue and stony undertones all round out this downright delicious Syrah-based wine that has a long life to go. Drink 2022-2036- 95

Domaine Carneros

Over the years, Domaine Carneros has been one of my all-time favorite spots to taste in the Napa Valley. Domaine Carneros towers over the valley, showcasing sweeping views and also an electric tasting menu to pair with their ebullient sparkling wines. It was back in the 1970s that Claude Taittinger, of famed Champagne house Taittinger, began his search for a good spot to make California Sparkling Wine. Finally in 1987 he selected a 138-acre parcel in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. The spot he selected is truly unique, as it has a massive maritime influence being perched near the bay. The vineyard is quite windy and produces highly concentrated berries that are very small in size.

A few years back Domaine Carneros hired Remi Cohen to serve as CEO and help with sparkling winemaker Zak Miller and Pinot Noir winemaker TJ Evans.. She took over Napa pioneer Eileen Crane, who had been crafting sensational, age-worthy sparkling wines in the Napa Valley for over 30 years. These are wines that age brilliantly as in the past year I have tried more than ten year old bottles of her ‘Le Reve’ which is one of the premier sparkling wines that you will find in North America.

I adored the new 2015 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Reve’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 96) which is very dense and has a wonderful sense of nerve and salinity from this warm vintage. A stunning new Pinot Noir is their 2019 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Ciel Serein’ (OB, 94) which is very dense and might be the finest rendition of this wine that I have yet tasted. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.domainecarneros.com Here are the new sparkling wines by Domaine Carneros

2018 Domaine Carneros ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- The gorgeous 2018 Domaine Carneros ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine is made from mostly estate Pinot Noir (58%) with the remainder Chardonnay. Given .9G/L dosage, the ‘Brut Rose’ offers delicate pomegranate seed and lemon blossom notes with suggestions of bright pear. The palate reveals a very soft mousse, making this sumptuous on the attack. Warm this beautiful wine up a bit to savor the full gauntlet of red fruits and stony/salty nuances. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2015 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Reve Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The brilliant new 2015 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Reve Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine is a warm vintage masterpiece by winemaker Zak Miller. Given a small amount of dosage (.9G/L), this slowly unveils delicate white tea and lemon oil aromas with biscuit notes. The palate is deep and concentrated, with a silky mousse. Heady citrus oil flavors combine with cashew nut, juicy nectarine and Japanese pear notes, with lighter ginger accents. This is refined, highly nuanced, sparkling wine that also deftly reflects this warm vintage. With more and more air this becomes more intense and more complex. Enjoy this masterful effort now and over the next fifteen years and don’t serve too cold to take in the fabulous range of flavors and aromatics. Drink 2022-2037- 96

2019 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Ciel Serein’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Ciel Serein’ comes from estate Pinot Noir vines (mostly Dijon 667) planted between 2002 and 2004. Once on the nose this shows off beautiful red rose petals and red currant aromas alongside salted cranberry and ripe red cherry. The palate is exceedingly soft and shows off serious weight and wonderful length. Complex and utterly delicious with its deep core of red fruits and blood orange zest accents, this is beautiful Pinot Noir to enjoy now and over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2019 Domaine Carneros ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Domaine Carneros ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir was stored for ten months in French oak prior to bottling. It is very juicy and approachable now with cherry cola, Linzer torte, and stony minerals that mingle with a light dusting of salinity. Enjoy now and over the next ten years.  Drink 2022-2032- 92

Merlots to Enjoy This Fall

October brings Merlot month and cooler weather calls for silky Merlot. I have hand-selected some outstanding Merlots that will surely bring pleasure to your dinner table or fireside chat. Merlot is staging a solid comeback post-Sideways. It was 2004 and I was sitting at a great restaurant in Seattle when my father ordered a 2000 Leonetti Cellar Merlot. As a graduate student I was slowly advancing my wine education and I was struck by the pillowy texture of this incredible wine. I won’t soon forget that seminal moment of exploring top notch Merlot.

Enjoy this list which offer wines all under 70 dollars. Regardless of budget, there are beautiful Merlot wines to savor for all.

California

2019 Cakebread Cellars Merlot ($60.00)- Soft and round, with a generous texture, the 2019 Cakebread Cellars Merlot can benefit from an hour in the decanter. Once aroused, this delivers worn leather and coffee ground flavors that combine with wild blackberry pie. Lightly tannic, with bright acidity, this has both the stuffing and finesse to cellar well for another decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Duckhorn ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot ($58.00)- A beautiful blend of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, this reveals sandalwood notes alongside black currants, exotic spices and dark chocolate shavings. The palate is ripe with a great mineral backbone. Showing good length with ripe dark fruits and tobacco leaf undercurrents, and copious minerals, this is drinking beautifully now and will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2019 Markham ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot- ($29.00) Juicy and ripe, the 2019 Markham Merlot shows off ripe red cherry with toasty oak, milk chocolate and red raspberry notes on the palate. Enjoy this great value now and over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 91

2019 Rutherford Hill Merlot ($28.00)- Balanced and showing ripe red and dark currant flavors with tobacco leaf, the 2019 Rutherford Hill Merlot displays good value. Enjoy now and over the  next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2028- 90

Washington

2019 Januik ‘Red Mountain’ Merlot- ($38.00) A limited case production (100 cases), the 2019 ‘Red Mountain’ Merlot has small portions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec blended in. Very soft and approachable on the mouth, this delivers rich dark fruit flavors with tobacco leaf, scorched earth and dark chocolate shavings. Delicious now, this has both the weight and finesse to cellar well for another ten to twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2018 Nine Hats Merlot ($25.00)- The 2018 Nine Hats Merlot is a killer value made by winemaker Gilles Nicault. Fresh sage and cocoa powder fill the nose with suggestions of baking spices and coffee grounds. The palate is soft and inviting with a silky texture. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2020 FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ Red Wine ($70.00)- The 2020 FIGGINS ‘Figlia’ Red Wine is a stunning blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot which was aged for 20 months in French oak (62% neutral) prior to bottling. Pencil lead and green herbs combine with blackberry compote and mocha tones on the nose. The palate is rich and volupuous with a silky texture and refined tannins. Very concentrated, with intense black and blue fruits, with herbal undertones, this is delicious and novel Bordeaux inspired wine to consume now and over the next fifteen years. Give this at least an hour in the decanter prior to enjoyment. Drink 2022-2038- 95

Liminal

It was exactly two years since I first tasted the Liminal lineup. For those who know me, I am crazy for novel terroir in wines — simply an unabashed terroir junkie. Over the course of two years Liminal have become one of the premier producers of Washington, sourcing all wines from the hallowed ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ (https://www.weathereyevineyard.com) one of the famed sites in Washington State viticulture. The vineyard itself is perched on the windswept ridgeline of Red Mountain in Washington State and is planted to 30 acres of Rhône, Bordeaux, and Spanish varieties. Quite diverse, the vineyard ranges from 950’ to 1410’ of elevation, and has extreme slopes and soils ranging from dune sand to fractured bedrock basalt. The talented Ryan Johnson serves as vineyard manager, having previously managed the esteemed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard for 15 years. Ryan farms this vineyard meticulously and wines from this site have a very wild appearance from the sagebrush, rabbitbrush and yarrow as well as many other native plants that can be found amongst the vines.

The goal for Liminal was to showcase wines from this special site, utilizing the talents of Chris Peterson. Owners Peterson and Marty Taucher have been very bullish on this site. It was a year ago that I first tasted their Liminal Cabernet Sauvignon out of barrel. I didn’t; score the wine but I was absolutely blown away.

The new wines come from the 2020 vintage which has been one that has shown mixed results throughout Washington. These are amongst the finest wines that I have tasted thus far from this vintage. I am enamored by the dense and beautifully textured 2020 Liminal ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ Viognier (OB, 95) which will live on for at least another eight years.  Don’t sleep on the novel and intense 2020 Liminal ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ Grenache (OB, 96) which displays a wonderful underlying acidity and mind-bending range, jam-packed with a great core of red and dark fruits. The best wine I tried, which is amongst the finest wines I have tasted from this vintage, the 2018 Liminal ‘Block 47’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98) borders perfection and is absolutely scintillating in its full-throttle style. Very heady and intense, with a great mineral backbone, this beauty will surely live on for decades.The vision behind these wines is just incredible. Don’t sleep on these beauties. Learn more at https://www.liminalwine.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Liminal Wines.

2020 Liminal ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ Viognier- The gorgeous and also very generous 2020 Liminal ‘WeatherEye Vineyard’ Viognier offers sweet honeysuckle, lychee, and roasted pineapple with suggestions oof ripe cantaloupe on the nose. The palate is very fresh and lively, with serious texture. The underlying salinity is truly outstanding here, as is the lip-smacking acidity that flows through the core of the Viognier. With more air this shows even wilder components of yarrow and white rose water. Enjoy at a slightly warmer temperature to take in the thrilling set of flavors and aromatics. Drink 2022-2030- 95

2020 Liminal ‘WeatherEye Vineyard GSM’ Red Wine- The 2020 Liminal ‘WeatherEye Vineyard GSM’ Red Wine blends 46% Grenache with smaller parts Syrah and Mourvèdre. The wine has a lot to admire with the immediately gratifying aromatics of red currants and potpourri with white pepper dusted bacon. The palate is dense and chewy with serious depth and concentration, with a light dusting of salinity and great veil of tension throughout the drinking experience. Very salty and savory, this is seriously good stuff that is built to age. Give this an hour of air prior to enjoying. Drink 2022-2034- 95

2020 Liminal Grenache- The 2020 Liminal Grenache is sourced from a .9 acre bush vine Grenache parcel at the top of the Northern slope on Red Mountain. This location produces very small, concentrated berries. The palate is rich and viscous with serious concentration and underlying finesse. The richness once on the mouth and its color is truly novel considering the varietal. Layers of bulls blood, iodine, white pepper, orange rind and generous red and dark fruits all parade on the palate. This is very gratifying and heady wine that will easily cellar for another decade — but is nearly impossible to put down in its full-throttle youth. Give this an hour of air prior to savoring. Drink 2022-2034- 96

2020 Liminal ‘High Canyon’ Syrah- Very intense, the outstanding 2020 Liminal ‘High Canyon’ Syrah comes from a site near the Viognier block at the WeatherEye Vineyard. Winemaker Chris Peterson chose to co-ferment the 2020 ‘High Canyon’ Syrah with 3% Viognier in a concrete egg. Right away this shows off violets with tar, tobacco leaf and blackberry cordial on the nose. There is the faintest high-toned honeysuckle notes from the Viognier that adds to the enjoyment. The palate is rich and deep, with light tannins that frame the core of hedonistic dark fruits, scorched earth and graphite undertones. This is nothing short of unbelievably good. Drink 2022-2036- 97

2020 Liminal ‘Block 16’ Syrah- Coming from a steep, northern facing slope at the WeatherEye Vineyard, the 100% varietal ’Block 16’ Syrah was stored in 25% new French oak before bottling. Immediately this shows off bulls blood aromas with saline drenched charcuterie and dense dark fruits. The palate is very savory and salty, with a terrific mouthfeel and great depth and character. Gorgeous in its full-throttle youth, this will easily go for another decade. Drink 2022-2035- 96

2020 Liminal Cabernet Franc- Coming from a super steep block in the WeatherEye Vineyard, the 2020 Liminal Cabernet Franc is one of the great wines of its kind in Washington State.  This reveals stunning aromas of black rose petals and violets with red bell pepper, fresh sage, blackberry compote and mocha tones. The palate is rich and viscous with a light salinity. Beautifully textured, with great length, there is nothing quite like this in Washington State. Give this two hours in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2022-2038- 95

2020 Liminal ‘Block 47’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The final number in this stunning lineup, the 2020 Liminal Cabernet Sauvignon is a masterclass that was sourced from a lower elevation block which is a one acre site, southwest facing with tight spacing in the WeatherEye Vineyard. The underlying acidity and salty of the character really make this sing. Very concentrated with huckleberry, Turkish coffee, dark chocolate shavings and black florals, this is singular, one of a kind wine that is already beautifully evolved. Get your hands on this beauty if you can and be sure to give it plenty of air prior to enjoyment. Drink 2022-2042- 98

Avennia

The Washington Wine Community is grateful that a partnership was made between former Microsoft executive Marty Taucher and superstar winemaker Chris Peterson. Together they formed Avennia — one of the great Washington wineries that produces nothing short of a stunning range of wines. One of the most consistently great producers of Rhone style wines and top class Bordeaux style reds, Chris Peterson formerly served as DeLille Cellars winemaker before starting this partnership with Taucher. The wines he makes for Avennia have beautiful structure, finesse and flavor density. There are no duds in this new lineup which comes from the 2020 and 2019 vintages — years that have produced mixed results for Washington wine.

Don’t miss out on the stunning 2020 Avennia ‘La Perle’ White Wine (OB, 93) which improves with an hour of air and is beautifully textured Southern Rhone style wine. I was blown away with the 2019 Avennia ‘Arnaut’ Syrah (OB, 95) which is deep and concentrated with the wonderful Northern Rhone profile that this site produces. Learn more about these special wines at avennia.com Here are my reviews of the two new Avennia wines. 

2020 Avennia ‘Oliane’ Sauvignon Blanc- Sourced from the Boushey (70%) and Red Willow (30%) Vineyards, the gorgeous tenth edition ‘Oliane’ is a rousing rendition that shows some good cellaring potential. Honeysuckle, white peach and kiwi tones all combine on the nose, with wet stone undercurrents. The palate is vibrant with a seamless texture and good depth and finesse. Finishing long, this is very refined Sauvignon Blanc that is best served a bit warmer for its full aromatic and flavor expression. Drink 2022-2029- 93

2020 Avennia ‘La Perle’ White Wine- A Southern Rhone inspired blend of 65% Roussanne and 35% Marsanne, the really good 2020 ‘La Perle’ evokes fragrant star jasmine, lychee and Pink Lady apple aromas that all meld in the glass. Soft and seamless on the mouth, this glides throughout the drinking experience, finishing very long with vanilla cream and minerals. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2021 Avennia ‘L’Egerie’ Rose- This beautiful, salmon-colored 2021 Rose was sourced from the Columbia Valley, and blends 75% Grenache with the reminder Mourvedre. Very delicate aromas of teaberry and guava puree greet you, with red rose water and hints of tangerine peel. The palate is very fresh and focused, with pinpoint balance. Nectarine and cranberry notes mingle well with strawberry and suggestions of wet stone. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2020 Avennia ‘Justine’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Justine’ is sourced from the Upland, Kiona and Boushey Vineyards. A blend of 60% Grenache with smaller parts Syrah and Mourvèdre, this shows off asphalt with garrigue and shades of boysenberry. The palate is beautifully textured, with great underlying finesse and salty undercurrents. The purity of red fruits here is beautiful. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Avennia ‘Arnaut’ Syrah- 100% varietal Boushey Vineyard Syrah coming from plantings bake in the 1990s. The 2020 ‘Arnaut’ shows gorgeous aromas of black olive tapenade, bulls blood, graphite and suggestions of blackberry cordial. The hedonistic bouquet brings you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is very elegant and beautifully textured, with serious underlying tension and a light dusting of salinity. Finishing very long and pure this is a more elegant version of ‘Arnaut’ that will easily cellar for another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2036- 95

2019 Avennia ‘Gravera’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Gravera’ Red Wine is a dense and chewy effort that is drinking marvelously now at the three year mark. Once on the nose this shows off graphite, black currants and anise tones that combine with beautiful black florals. The palate is soft and enticing with smooth tannins that frame a core of rich dark fruits with chocolate and coffee ground notes. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2019 Avennia ‘Valery’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Valery’ is a blend of 88% Merlot (1986 Boushey Vineyard Planting) with the remainder Cabernet Franc (Champoux Vineyard). Very faint red florals and and red bell pepper notes combine with suggestions of fresh sage, dusty soils and black cherry compote. The palate is salty and savory with downright killer concentration and length. This is very elegant wine that shows good depth considering the vintage. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2019 Avennia ‘Sestina’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Sestina’ is a gorgeous blend of old vine 77% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. On the nose this takes on beautiful black florals with sagebrush, scorched earth and loamy soils. The palate is refined and elegant, with good concentration and a gorgeous purity of black fruits and serious length. This will age gracefully for two decades. Drink 2022-2038- 95

2019 Avennia ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from old plantings (1991) at the top of the hill at the Red Willow Vineyard, the 2019 ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off tar and pencil lead notes alongside dusty soils, cigar ash and black currant jelly. The palate is deep and refined with very elegant tannins. Intense dark fruits parade with espresso grounds, dried herbs and suggestions of creme de violette. Drink this beauty over then ext two decades. Drink 2022-2040- 96