For the first time in over a year I walked away from a restaurant feeling totally invigorated Sure, I had done some fine dining mostly outside of town that was fantastic. I might have walked away really satisfied but not as refreshed or inspired. At 84 Yesler, their tasting menu is just the right amount of food. A focus on seafood, dishes are rich but not heavy. The balance in the dishes is absolutely outstanding. Themes of texture and color play a major role in this feeling of dining in harmony. Seattle is a town definitely not known for top service. I can say without hesitation that the service at Yesler 84 is very detailed without being overbearing. Quite simply if you do not feel the same while dining for their spring tasting menu here I’m afraid you’re lacking a pulse.
General Manager Michael Don Rico has a wealth of experience ranging from the opening management team for El Gaucho, a partner at Branzino, as well as first Westerner to work with Chef Shiro Kashiba to open the acclaimed Sushi Kashiba. You will be impressed with the service that he has instilled.
Chef Shawn Applin was formerly chef de Cuisine for Seattle James Beard award winning Chef Christine Keff at both her ground breaking Flying Fish & Fandango locations. He was an amazing Executive Chef at Seattle’s RN 74 by Michael Mina Group before it closed during COVID-19.
Before the tasting menu began I started with a glass of champagne, the NV Liebart-Regnier Brut ($19.00) which beautifully balanced the meal and was very reasonably priced.
I was first served one of the standout dishes, Chef’s steak tartare which was rich, creamy and shared lots of textures with incredible balance. The presentation was about as good as it gets. Balance was the theme for the second course, local asparagus but traditional asparagus and white, with beautiful Ikura producing a salty edge and egg yolk shavings adding something more savory. This dish was delicious as it was beautiful. Each dish also came out with perfect cadence.
The next dish was actually my favorite, it was a soft and beautifully cooked skate wing with lemon caper sauce. It melted in my mouth. For those who have never tried skate, it is a succulent fish. Sometimes it can get overly salty, but this was just cooked to perfection and the sauce didn’t overwhelm the dish.
There was a deconstructed bouillabaisse with fresh king crab pasta that was also perfectly cooked and a fried piece of bread that was so flavorful I had no idea how it was created but it was perfect for dipping in the sauce. The last two courses of pan fried halibut again was perfectly cooked. The dessert was also beautiful and I adored the homemade lemon gelato.
After I was done, I got up from my table feeling really excited about fine dining in Seattle. It was truly a Michelin Star worthy performance to be remembered.