Purple Star

In a world of highly extracted warm vintage wines, Purple Star offers an alternative. Not everyone loves the deep and intense, over the top, Washington red wine bottlings. For those liking more of a balanced approach to Washington winemaking, and don’t want to break the bank on a highly quality bottle of wine, let me introduce Purple Star. Think Bordeaux meets Washington here. The idea behind Purple Star is to make affordable, terroir driven wines. Head winemaker and co-owner, Kyle Johnson, has been making wine for more than 10 years. A few weeks back I had the chance to speak with him at a Washington wine event and he talked about the importance of soil and balance in the winemaking process. His wines truly reflect this style. A winery with a cause, Purple Star donates 15% of Purple Star Wines’ proceeds to Seattle Children’s Hospital to benefit uncompensated care which helps cover expenses associated with critical medical care. These guys are seriously good people and have created a really fantastic business model.

I recently had the chance to try two of their new release wines and I was impressed with the balance and terroir offered in each wine. Their 2012 Cabernet had a lovely, vegetal character, which was intriguing as many 2012 WA Cabernets do not have that aspect in that vintage. Their Syrah bottling was also very solid and had a strong minerality that reminded me of a great Cote du Rhone. Both wines retail for $18.00 and are one of the better values in Washington wine, as they could easily charge more per bottle. Here are the new release wines that I recently sampled from Purple Star.

2013 Purple Star Sauvignon Blanc- This is a balanced style of Sav Blanc. The wine has aromas of cut grass, pear and Gala apple. This leads to medium bodied flavors of pear, lemongrass, and lychee. Lovely effort from this warmer vintage. Drink 2016-2020 -89

2012 Purple Star Cabernet- A fantastic value Cabernet, this wine begins with aromatics of dill, sage, and blackberry, as the nose needs time in the decanter to develop. There are medium weight flavors of blackberry, coffee grounds and anise, connecting with some mild tannins. Nice herbaceousness, vegetal aspect and structure to this Cabernet. This is not one to touch for another year, as it needs some time for the fruit to fully integrate.- Drink 2017-2025- 90

2013 Purple Star Syrah- This Syrah begins with aromas of sagebrush, red bell pepper and blackberry. This wine has flavors of red cherry, blackberry and dried sage that are medium weight alongiside nice minerality. Lovely mouthfeel with nice balance on the finish. Drink 2016-2024- 90

Washington White and Rose Wines for Spring

Spring is here, which means longer and warmer days. Spring brings on white wine and rose season as people no longer only push for heavy reds. I have had the chance to sample more than 100 Washington wines in the past few months and I have found the new white wine and rose releases to be really good and better than I had anticipated. White wine releases are typically the 2014 vintage, and some 2013 vintage wines, while Rose wines focus on 2015. A bit about these vintages. Think of these vintages in terms of increasing hotness, like your initial grade school crush to the most beautiful man or woman at your alma mater.
2013 was a hot year, a bit hotter than 2012 and a lot hotter than 2010 and 2011. The vintage has yielded some exceptional red and white wines as winemakers have said that these wines have impressed across the board and rival the best from the exceptional 2012 vintage.
2014 was even hotter than 2013. Heat can become a problem for white wines, but many esteemed Washington winemakers, (including Mike Januik, Christian Sparkman, Bilo Navarene and others) do not seem concerned with brightness or acidity in their white wines for the 2014 vintage. 2015 is the hottest vintage on record for Washington State. There were enormous heat spikes in the summer which threatened the health of the vines. Harvest was also the earliest for wineries on record. Many wineries were picking in August for the first time, which made for some very nervous winemakers. However, many winemakers are excited about the 2015 vintage, especially their red wines. Most have noted that they are slightly less excited about their 2015 white wines, but have mentioned that they were generally pleased with the fruit and acid levels in the wines.
I think that right now Washington is currently producing a tremendous range of quality wines that is unequaled in North America when you factor in price. White wines from the 2013 and 2014 vintages have been showing very nicely thusfar. Look for these value white wines selections at area wine shops, such as Pete’s and Esquin, as well as some grocery stores such as QFC and Safeway or online at the winery websites. Most of my selections are under 20 dollars, which will fit nearly every budget. Here are some recommended value white wines and roses for spring as you can toast to a future gorgeous northwest summer.

2014 Airfield Estates Viognier- This is 90% unoaked and the rest was in neutral barrels. This wine opens with aromas of white peach, banana and pear. There are flavors of lychee, pear and vanilla cream with a full mouthfeel. This has lovely texture and offers tremendous value. Drink 2015-2020-90

2014 Buty White- This Bordeaux style white wine begins with aromas of gardenia, lemongrass and pear. There is a lithe texture and mouthfeel to this smooth blend. This silky wine has flavors of cut grass, Meyer lemon and pear. This delicious blend is hard to resist right now. The structure suggests this will have a long life. Drink 2015-2025- 92

2013 Chandler Reach Chardonnay- The wine has aromas of ripe pear, banana and golden delicious apple. Flavors of Granny Smith apple, green papaya, poached pear and wonderful freshness. Nice minerality and lip smacking acidity to this wonderful summer wine. Drink 2016-2022- 91

2015 Charles and Charles Rose- This value wine begins with lovely feminine aromas of white peach, red raspberry and red cherry. Flavors of guava red cherry and red raspberry. This is an excellent value wine that is tough to put down right now. Drink 2016-2020-88

2014 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Canoe Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This great Chardonnay bottling begins with bright aromas of pear, starfruit. and cut grass, with Gala apple. There are rich flavors of poached pear, Pazzaz apple and vanilla with a lovely cream finish. very nice. Drink 2016-2022- 92

2014 Chateau St. Michelle 'Eroica' Riesling- This new release wine begins with aromas of golden delicious apple, Petrol and wet stone. Delicious flavors of Pazzaz apple, unripe pear, cantaloupe and lovely minerality. Impressive structure given the heat of the vintage. Very refreshing lemon and lime component. Drink 2016-2022- 92

2014 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Eroica Gold’ Riesling- This semi-sweet, Spatlase style Riesling has bright aromas of golden delicious apple, with white raisin. This leads to medium weight flavors of apricot, golden delicious apple and pear that sit aside racy acidity. Drink 2016-2023- 92

2014 Columbia Crest 'H3' Sauvignon Blanc- This wine begins with aromas of lemongrass, gooseberry and cut grass. There are nice flavors of pear gooseberry and Gala apple. Lovely minerality. Drink 2016-2020-89

2015 Cote Bonneville Rose- Made from 100% Cab Franc from the DuBrul vineyard. The wine opens with aromas of rose petals, cranberry sauce and red cherry with suggestions of cantaloupe. There are flavors of ripe pear, orange rind, red raspberry and a light cream finish. The mouthfeel is rich and has a velvety texture that you might not anticipate. Lovely stuff from this estate. Drink 2016-2020- 92

2014 DeLille Cellars Rousanne- This wine begins with aromas of banana, lychee, cut grass and Gala apple. There are flavors of red delicious apple, Bartlett pear, starfruit and cantaloupe. Rich effort and nice balance. Drink 2016-2023- 93

2014 Goose Ridge Vineyards 'GRV'- The ‘GRV’ is an enticing blend of 50% Viognier, 27% Grenache blanc and 23% Roussanne. The wine begins with medium weight aromas of starfruit, Gala apple, honeydew melon and poached pear. This leads to flavors of red delicious apple, lemongrass, green papaya with a vanilla cream finish. Very solid. Drink 2016-2021- 90

2014 Lauren Ashton Chardonnay- This wine comes from Harker vineyard. This wine begins with aromas of mango, starfruit, brioche and ripe pear. There are flavors of Gala apple, navel orange, pear and starfruit. This has lovely texture and richness. Drink 2016-2023- 92

2014 L'Ecole No. 41 'Stillwater Creek' Semillon- This lithe wine is fat on the palate with lychee, butter and cantaloupe flavors. Delicious wine right out of the bottle. Drink 2015-2020- 91

2014 L'Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay- This wine opens with aromas of green apple, cantaloupe and light oak. There are flavors of oak, cream, red delicious apple and cantaloupe. Ripe and balanced. Drink 2015-2022- 91

2014 Long Shadows 'Poets Leap'- The wine is made famous by German winemaker Armand Diel. There is pear and red delicious apple followed by gravel on the aromatic nose. The wine has a delicious and lovely minerality through the mid-palate. Flavors of green apple, cantaloupe and green papaya persist. Lithe and expressive, this is one of the best made Washington Rieslings out there. This effort eclipses the 2012 and '13. Drink 2015-2020. -93

2013 Mark Ryan Viognier- This is a great bottling by Mark Ryan. The wine begins with bright aromatics of honeysuckle and pear with light spice accents on the nose. The palate is lithe and has pear, red delicious and cantaloupe. Fantastic expression of the varietal, with the balance and poise that you would want. Drink 2016-2021 -91

2015 Revelry Vintners Rose- This is composed of Cabernet Franc and Grenache. The wine begins with aromas of pink bubblegum, red raspberry and rose petals. Flavors of red cherry red raspberry and lovely minerality. Open style Rose with a touch of orange rind that is a great value buy. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2013 Purple Star Sauvignon Blanc- This is a balanced style of Sav Blanc. The wine has aromas of cut grass, pear and Gala apple. This leads to medium bodied flavors of pear, lemongrass, and lychee. Lovely effort from this warmer vintage. Drink 2016-2020 -89

2014 Sparkman ‘Pearl’ Sauvignon Blanc- This wine begins with aromas cut grass, cantalope and lemon oil. This leads to flavors reminiscent of red delicious apple, lemongrass and vanilla cream. The finish lingers. Lovely value bottling. Drink 2016-2020- 90

2013 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc- Sourced from the Stillwater Creek and Lawrence vineyards, the wine was aged for 7 months in 100% new French oak, without fining or filtration. This dense white wine begins with aromas of whipping cream, oak, cut grass and ripe Bartlett pear. There are flavors of Fuji apple, honeydew melon and oak with a long finish. Very impressive, with a rich mouthfeel. Drink 2016-2024- 92

2014 Waitsburg Cellars 'Chevray' Chenin Blanc. This impressive Chenin has aromas of unripe pear, cantalope, red delicious apple. Flavors of poached pear, starfruit, and Meyer lemon zest, persist alongside incredible structure and minerality. This has a real personality. Drink 2016-2025- 92

2013 Woodward Canyon ‘Dry’ Riesling- Vines for this wine are grown by Hugh and Kathy Shiels at their DuBrul Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, north of Sunnyside, Washington. The soil, comprised of sand, silt, and calcium covered fractured basalt rocks. This wine begins with aromas of Meyer lemon, wet stone, and lemongrass. There are flavors of pear, cantaloupe and gooseberry in this impressive bottling. Drink 2015-2025- 90

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Interview with Damon Huard, Former NFL Quarterback and Co-Owner of Passing Time Winery

Damon Huard is one of the most famous quarterbacks in University of Washington History. He is not only the co-owner of Passing Time but currently serves as Director of External Relations for the University of Washington football program. Huard also played 12 years in in the NFL for the Kansas City Chiefs, New England Patriots and Miami Dolphins. Damon won two Super Bowl rings with the Patriots in 2001 and 2003. He attended Puyallup High School in Puyallup, Washington and was letterman in both football and basketball. In football, as a senior, he was named the Gatorade State Player of the Year and won All-American honors. Damon attended the University of Washington from 1991-1995, where he finished his career as the Huskies' all-time passing leader with 5,692 yards. Huard’s long road into wine began with the Miami Dolphins. He signed with the Dolphins in April 1997. Damon backed up Dan Marino for three seasons. He got his first real playing time in the NFL replacing an injured Marino in the first quarter on October 17 1999 when he came off the bench and led the Dolphins to a come from behind win against the New England Patriots coached by Pete Carroll. Huard was named NFL player of the week for his strong performance in the Dolphins 31-30 victory in Foxboro. He then won the next three consecutive games that he started, tying a Dolphins record set by Earl Morrall in 1972. Huard also had a successful career with the Kansas City Chiefs. In the 2006 season Huard started eight games for the Chiefs, posting a 5–3 record until Pro-Bowl QB Trent Green returned back to health from a severe concussion he suffered week one. Damon had a huge hand in the Chiefs making the playoffs that season.

While Huard was with the Miami Dolphins, he befriended Dan Marino. Dan had an incredible wine collection and shared his cellar with Damon with all kinds of wines from around the world. They talked about starting a winery together when they both retired. After Damon retired, Huard looked into finding the right winemaker and Chris Peterson was the perfect match. Peterson had the pedigree that Huard and Marino wanted, a young passionate winemaker who cut his teeth at Dellile cellars making big Washington Reds. Passing Time’s production facility is located in the Woodinville Warehouse District. I recently had the opportunity to sample their impressive 2013 Passing Time Cabernet (WWB, 94). This was an absolutely outstanding and rich example of Washington Cabernet, with the silky texture that head winemaker Chris Peterson is known for. Huard is very happy with the 2013 Cabernet and looks forward to the bright future of Passing Time Winery. I recently had the great opportunity to sit down with Damon and talk wine. I found Damon to be incredibly humble, as he talked about learning his way in the wine industry after a highly successful NFL career. Damon is very excited about the future of Passing Time and the Washington wine industry. Here is my interview with Damon Huard, former NFL quarterback and co-owner of Passing Time Winery.

WWB: Can you talk about how you were first introduced to the world of wine?

DH: It took me to move three thousand miles from home to really learn about Washington wine. Sneaking into Dan Marino’s cellar, I was a young, 22 year old kid and knew nothing about wine. I was never exposed to fine wine and I get to Miami and Marino is pouring amazing Washington wines, like Andrew Will, Col Solare and Quilceda Creek. I had never had any wine like this. I had no idea that my home state made wine of this quality. After a while the wine bug just bit me. Danny [Marino] and I had a great connection with football and with wine. For many years we talked about starting this wine venture when I was done with football. Another interesting side note was that when I was done with the Dolphins I signed with the New England Patriots . At the time fellow QB and Washington native Drew Bledsoe was just getting into wine himself while in New England and the passion for wine kept growing. The more wine I enjoyed, the more I knew that wine was the career for me once I was done with football.I would go back to Washington each offseason and during my time off from football I made some great connections in the Washington wine community. We formed an LLC in 2001 that included myself, Dan, Bledsoe and Rick Mirer. We all wanted to be part of a winery. We soon realized that the winery had to be here in Washington and we needed to live here, so we all decided that we were going to do this when I was home and done with pro football. Drew retired and then started Doubleback and that was around 2005 and his first vintage was 2007. Rick Mirer started Mirror in Napa shortly thereafter. I retired in 2009 and got started with the whole process of finding the winemaker and getting the fruit from different vineyard sources. 2012 was our first release. Even though this story is new, our story goes back 20 years when Danny was first introducing me to Washington wines.
I think my favorite part of the story is I have some really deep agricultural roots in Eastern Washington. My great grandparents were farmers of concord grapes in Grandview, Washington. Dick Bouchey says that he drives by Huard road most days on the way to his famous vineyard. That road was named after my family. My dad grew up in Prosser and played high school basketball against Paul Champoux. I didn’t initially know about all this history of my family but I find it fascinating that I am now sourcing fruit from the same Horse Heaven Hills region where my father grew up. As a young winery we are so fortunate to be able to get fruit from many older established vineyards in the state. Vineyards like Champoux and Klipsun which were planted over 30 years ago are a part of our program and we would not be off to the great start without their fruit. I am lucky that I have these great relationships in wine that I have built over many years. Another difference maker is I have an amazing young winemaker, in Chris Peterson. He was at DeLille for 8 years and now Co-owns a winery he started with the 2010 vintage called Avennia. The real beauty of Avennia and Passing Time is that the wines Chris is making for both wineries are very different in style. With Avennia he makes a lot of wines with Rhone variatils and his Bordeaux blends come from cooler vineyard sites so they are very different wines then the big Cabernets we are asking him to make for us at Passing Time. I work very closely with Chris with Chris on all decisions made in the cellar and vineyard. I have learned a lot from him these past 5 years. It is all about the process and a true labor of love. Our goal is to be in the conversation as one of the next great Cabernet produces from Washington. We want to be the place customers go to taste amazing Washington Cabernet from the three appellations that we think people identify Washington wine with the most. We are always going to make the flagship Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet. But starting with the 2014 vintage we are going to make three different wines, all Cabernets, from these three Washington appellations -- Walla Walla, Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain. We want to celebrate how different the Cabernet is from these three appellations and showcase how unique Washington’s different growing regions are.

WWB: As Seattle fans of football, we were all very excited when you were leading the Chiefs into the playoffs during that 2006 season which included a big win against the Seahawks. Can you talk about that special NFL season?

DH: That 2006 season was awesome. The season started rough with Trent Green getting hurt the first game of the year. The poor guy got hit and was knocked unconscious for 15 minutes. Our coach, Herman Edwards, told me I was in and I was nervous and also disturbed after seeing my friend and teammate carried off the field after a hit like that. I hadn’t really played much since the 2000 season. I had mostly held the clipboard for New England. In Kansas City I did not play my first two years on the roster. When I got this opportunity I knew it was my time. I look back at my career and watching Dan play and then [Tom] Brady play for three years I knew I could do it if given an opportunity. I got that opportunity and I made the most of it. We had a great run that year and I finished second in the league in quarterback rating behind Peyton Manning. I had a great season. 2007 started out good (4-3 record) as well and then we lost a couple games and Edwards [Kansas City Coach, Herman Edwards] wanted the younger guy in there at QB and we didn’t win another game that season. I had a great time in Kansas City and will never forget that magical season in ‘06.
While in Kansas City I had some Hall of Famers around me. Football is the ultimate team sport. Tony Gonzalez is maybe the best player I ever played with. He was amazing and always would make the catch, no matter where I threw the ball. We had some incredible offensive lineman. Will Shields was just inducted into the Hall of Fame and he is one of the best offensive lineman to ever play the game. Larry Johnson that year was a monster at running back and we had a strong cast of characters. We had a great time and it was a fun group of veteran guys. Being the quarterback of that team was an honor. But one of the toughest things was when Trent came from his injury and Herm [head coach] gave him the starting job back. I had gone on a run and had won a few games, so that was tough on me. Trent was the captain of the team and a Pro Bowl quarterback so I understood coaches decision but I remember that experience being really hard on me.
Beating the Seahawks that 2006 season was amazing. I grew up being a Seahawks fan. I actually worked for Paul Allen in 1996 for Football Northwest my first year out of college after I got cut from the Bengals. I did a lot of public speaking around the state of Washington talking about the economic impact if the Seahawks were to move to LA. I talked about what a great owner Paul would be if we all stepped up a little with some tax dollars to build a new stadium. Pretty cool out that all worked out. After 9 months working with PauI, I got a call from the Dolphins and they wanted me to come to their training camp. I had been waiting for the phone call for a long time. I still thought I could play so I went to give it one more try with the Dolphins. I fooled them all for 12 years thereafter!
In 2006 when I was with the Chiefs we played the Seahawks. One of the amazing things about that story is that I had essentially worked for the Seahawks when I was with Paul Allen’s Football Northwest 10 years earlier, and I knew a lot of people in their front office. It was special to beat the hometown team that afternoon with so many connections to the Seahawks. The only disappointing side note was that my good friend Matt Hasselbeck was hurt that day and Seneca Wallace played instead. It would have been even sweeter if I had beaten Matt!

WWB: How did you decide to start Passing Time and how were you introduced to Chris Peterson?

DH: I met Chris Peterson just as he was starting Avennia. We have two other partners with Danny and I -- a few local guys with the same passion for wine, one named Doug Donnely and the other Kevin Hughes. Doug is a financial advisor and he has worked closely with Marty Taucher, the co-owner of Avennia, for years. Doug, my financial guy as well, had known for years that I was going to do this wine project. He knew that I was trying to find the right winemaker. I have great relationships with Chris Carmarda and Charlies Hoppes. The Golitzins have been awesome too. Doug worked with the Alex Golitzin in the 70’s as well and I have had these relationships in the wine world but I wanted a winemaker that was closer to my age and driven and kind of just out there wanting to make a name for himself. That guy was Chris Peterson. We signed him on with Passing Time and we knew that we were getting a potential rockstar. I am so impressed with him and his attention to detail. His palate and ability to work with people. He is the quarterback of our team now and it is just amazing what he does. It is such a pleasure working with Chris. We work really well together and I am ok taking the call from him in the huddle these days.

WWB: The 2013 Passing Time Cabernet (WWB, 94) is a silky and elegant wine that drinks beautifully right now. Can you talk about the background of this wine? What are some of the details that go into producing this exceptional bottling?

DH: Let’s start with the 2012, we sourced fruit from a number of vineyards that year. We could have made 800 cases of wine in 2012 but we left a lot of the grapes out and ended up with about 540 cases. Many of the barrels did not meet our standards, so we sold the juice off in bulk and yes we lost some money but we had to do that early on to dial in the program and come out of the gate with an outstanding wine. We have spared no expense at Passing Time. In 2013 the Merlot in our program did not make the Cabernet better, whereas we had 9% Merlot in 2012. We again cut down our overall production with the intent of making the best wine possible. These are tough financial decision to make but we feel like we have to do that in order to build a serious brand. We use old school winemaking with open air stainless steel fermentation. We do daily punch downs and hand sort the berries at crush.
Every year we are going to get better. We are going to know which blocks in the vineyard work best with the different barrels. This is going to be a process. We use a number of French oak barrels and it is amazing how different they all are. We love the trials in the different barrels. There are going to be different mouthfeels compared to another barrel. That is where Chris is really gifted in his barrel program. All of the barrels add complexity to the wine, whether it is mouthfeel or finish. These are the differences that we like. In the final blend picking the right barrels and getting the right amount of new oak and the right barrel, this all makes a difference. WE also ask our farmers to crop our fruit at no more than three tons an acre, sometimes less. Getting the crop loads down can allow that plant to work harder for the remaining clusters really help concentrate the fruit and add unique complexity. Chris is over there in the vineyard ever single week probably twice during Harvest and I am over there making that drive with him when I can. When you pick that fruit is very important. If you pick too late you get that overripe prune flavor profile in time and we are not looking for that. One of Chris’s unique abilities is picking just a little sooner, when the grapes are still fresh. Picking the fruit when it is just ripe makes a big difference in the bottle many years later. I think you can get lazy especially if you are making 10 or 15 thousand cases, you are not going to have that attention to detail in the blocks. I think our end goal will be two thousand cases. We can detail every little thing at that quantity because we are only making that much wine.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wines of the world that you have in your personal collection?

DH: I definitely have had a lot of great old world wine. However, I should have been working for the Washington Wine Commission while I was in the NFL because I promoted Washington wine so much. Everywhere I went I was sharing Washington wine with my teammates. I would visit local shops in KC and New England and get to know the owners and I made sure they were getting Washington wine on their shelves. I would get my L’Ecole and Woodward Canyon and Col Solare. I am the biggest Washington fan at the end of the day. But there is no doubt that I have had some great Italian wines. I love Gaja, Sassacia, and some Super Tuscans are some of my favorites. I also love Barolo. I also love Burgundy and have some great Oregon Pinots in my cellar. I like to think that I have trained my palate a bit from wines from all over the world. From Spain to Argentina I have had them all but at the end of the day I am always drawn back to my roots and the wines we are making right here in Washington!

Interview with Tyler Tennyson, Head Winemaker at Dunham Cellars

The third head winemaker in Dunham Cellars history, Tyler Tennyson will now be leading the white and red wine production at Dunham. Tyler originally had a background outside of wine but became enamored in the world of wine and followed the gradual progression into full-time winemaking. Tyler has a bachelor’s degree from the University of Washington. He has worked under some great teams at Dusted Valley, Seven Hills and Gordon Estates, prior to coming to Dunham. He is very excited to be the new headwinemaker at Dunham and I wanted to share his story. Meet Tyler Tennyson, the new head winemaker of Dunham Cellars:

WWB: Can you talk about how you became interested in winemaking?

TT: I got my degree in Urban Geography from the University of Washington and was working in commercial real estate in the Seattle area. I came from a family that didn’t do much wine drinking but my wife is Italian and I learned from their family who always had wine at their table. At the same time, I was working with Tom Shafer when he was starting a’Maurice in Walla Walla. So I fell in Love with wine and Walla Walla. My wife and I made some wine in the basement, and I’m not going to lie, it was terrible, but we loved the process of winemaking and I started taking some classes at South Seattle Community College. The wine bug grew and it became more and more of a passion, rather than a hobby. I finally decided to quit my job and moved to Walla Walla in 2009. From there I worked with Dusted Valley and then worked as an assistant winemaker at Seven Hills for three years. Then I got my first head winemaking job at Gordon Estates in Pasco which was really exciting. Gorton Estates had a wide range of wines, from all estate fruit, so that was a really exciting opportunity for me.

WWB: Gordon Estates has a wide range of wines and you bring that wide range of winemaking to Dunham. Was that a factor in deciding that Dunham Cellars was the right fit for you?

TT: That was definitely a factor. There were a number of factors. But the biggest factor was simply that it is Dunham, which is such a Walla Walla icon, a Washington wine icon for that matter. But there were a lot of factors for me. Personality wise, there was a great fit and my skill set matched up perfectly. My path to this point had really set me up for this. During my time at Dusted Valley, Seven Hills and Gordon Estate I had the opportunity to work with most major varietals white and red from all over the state and production levels similar to Dunham. And for me it feels like all of these stars have aligned and made Dunham a match made in heaven. Not to mention that when I even when I worked in Pasco I was living in Walla Walla so this is a nice home coming. I couldn’t be more excited about this being the right home for me.

WWB: What are some of your favorite varietals to work with? What excites you about Dunham’s wine lineup?

TT: I don’t know that it’s any one varietal I am most excited about. But I am excited to be working with such a diverse spread of fruit from some of the best vineyard sites across the state. All the different vineyard sourcing and the ability to work with all the site specific nuances is very exciting. Dunham has been such a nice reflection of wines throughout the state working with fruit from the Lewis vineyard in Yakima, to the Stone Tree vineyard on the Wahluke slope, to our Walla Walla sites and everything in between. Kenny Hill in Walla Walla is just fully coming online and it is exciting to be joining the Dunham family while we launch these Walla Walla Valley vineyard designate wines. I’m excited about it all.

Interview with Brandon Moss, Production Winemaker at Gramercy Cellars

Gramercy Cellars has earned an international reputation for fantastic Rhone wines. I recently had the great opportunity to speak with Brandon Moss, who heads wine production at Gramercy. Brandon previously worked harvests at King Estate in Oregon and even in New Zealand. He has a background in fermentation science, as he knew right away that winemaking was the career for him.  Upon returning to Walla Walla be became cellar master at Waters Winery before joining Gramercy as assistant winemaker. In 2011 Brandon became a partner in Gramercy Cellars. He and Greg Harrington, MS, Gramercy’s founder, have formed an incredible team. I was very impressed with my recent run through of 2013 releases from Gramercy. Brandon talked about his background with me, as well as some of the great wines that he produces. Here is my interview with Brandon Moss, Production Winemaker at Gramercy Cellars

WWB: How were you initially interested in wine and winemaking?

BM: I initially became interested in wine while I was in college at Oregon State.  I was in the Pre Dental program at OSU and was destined to be a dentist.  I had a very small wine shop next to my house and started going in to the shop regularly and trying bottles.  He would also hold weekly wine tastings that I would attend.  This sparked my interest in wines of the world and definitely opened my eyes to wines I would have never tried on my own.  Around the same time I started to brew beer with a friend that was in the Fermentation Science program at OSU.  As I read more about wine I knew that was really what I wanted to do with my life.  I switched majors to Fermentation Science immediately and the rest is history.

WWB: Can you talk about your winemaking background? What was it like working at King Estate and in New Zealand?

BM: Originally out of school I really wanted to stay and work in the Willamette Valley.  I knew I wanted to work in some bigger wineries to see all the technology and logistics involved that you do not see at boutique wineries.  King Estate was working a lot with Organic viticulture and winemaking which was very interesting to me.  King Estate was a great experience as we got to see the Organic side of winemaking from all of our estate fruit as well as making wines using more technology with some of the purchased fruit.  I handled most of the inoculations for King Estate which really sparked my interest in different yeast profiles for wines. 

After vintage was done at King Estate I knew I wanted to travel.  New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir were always wines I liked drinking so I thought it would be a good fit.  I worked at a large winery called Indevin that made wine for some big wineries such as Oyster Bay but also produced wine for smaller producers and farmers in the Marlborough area.  At Indevin I helped to run the presses for Sauvignon Blanc which was very intense as we brought in more than 15,000 tons of fruit. 

Coming back from New Zealand I was still very interested in working in the Willamette Valley but my best friend growing up had started a winery in the Walla Walla Valley.  He told me I should come out to taste and see Walla Walla before going back to the Willamette.  I came and was blown away with the wines and decided Walla Walla was the home for me. 

WWB: What is it like working alongside a mastermind like Greg Harrington? Have you learned some specific techniques from him in terms of tasting wines and winemaking?

BM: I have learned so much working for Greg.  I came on with the winery in 2007 just two years after Greg had started the winery.  At that time we were making just about 1000 cases.  We have since built the winery to 10,000 cases.  Greg’s knowledge of the world of wine has been invaluable.  He has implemented many philosophies on winemaking from the Old World such as stem inclusion and non-interventionist winemaking. Many of the practices that he wanted to implement I had never seen before as I had worked in larger more technology driven wineries.  Greg has also taught me so much in terms of tasting wines and learning from the wines we taste.  We regularly taste bench mark wines so we can assess our goals for our wines and compare our wines to the Old world standards.  This has significantly affected our ideas on ripeness in our grapes and how to handle our wines in the winery. 

WWB: Gramercy has earned a nationwide reputation for strong Rhone style bottlings. Can you talk about the new 2013 releases and the future vintages of 2014 and 2015? 

BM: We have had a string of warm vintages in the last 3 years.  2013 was definitely a warm growing season and was above historical averages.  But 2014 came in with even more heat units than 2013 and then 2015 with even more heat units than 2014.  I think that dealing with the heat from 2013 definitely prepared us for the next couple of vintages.  We learned that despite having a warm vintage we could still pick early in our vineyards and preserve the freshness and acidity in the grapes.  Warm vintages tend to encourage winemakers to pick riper but we definitely held strong to our convictions and picked the grapes in our normal 22-23 brix range.  The 2013 wines are showing beautifully right now.  They are much more open than the 2012’s were upon release.  By picking early in our vineyards in 2013 we were still able to keep to the Gramercy style making food friendly low alcohol acid driven wines. 

WWB: I was hugely impressed with your 2012 Gramercy 'The Deuce' Syrah which landed at #33 on my 2015 Top 100. Can you talk about this dense, layered and seductive wine, as well as the winemaking behind this wonderful Walla Walla Syrah?

BM: The Deuce Syrah is definitely one of my favorite wines we make at the winery.  This wine is created to show our best Syrah sites in the Walla Walla Valley.  One our favorite vineyards in Walla Walla is Les Collines.  It is on the east side of the Walla Walla Valley nestled up against the Blue Mountains at around 1300 ft. elevation.  We love Syrah from this part of the Valley as temperatures there are consistently cooler as well as the vines receive more rainfall.  The wines from Les Collines definitely work very well for whole cluster fermentation.  Most of the fermentations from Les Collines are 100% Whole cluster fermented.  For Gramercy we don’t normally do single vineyard wines as we like to build complexity in the wines by using vineyards that will complement each other.  We blended in 15% SJR Syrah from the newly created, Rocks District of Milton Freewater.  The wines from the “Rocks” consistently show savory and umami flavors backed up a core of blue and black fruit.  It blends very well with Les Collines and definitely brings out the savory nuances in the wine. 

WWB: When you are not drinking Gramercy reds, what is typically in your glass? Do you have any favorite Washington wines?

BM: I definitely love the wines of the Northern Rhone some of my favorites are Pierre Gonon, Jamet, Chave, and Thierry Allemand.  But I change wine preferences depending on the season.  It is nearly Rose season so right now stocking up on Peyrassol and Tempier rose as well as some Txakoli.  I also love drinking anything from the Loire as well Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  In terms of Washington I am really liking the wines made at Reynvaan, Rasa, Cayuse, and Rotie Cellars.  They are making really unique Rhone wines and I definitely recommend getting your hands on any of the wines from these producers. 

Sipping Seattle: A Wine List Examination of Seattle Restaurant Groups

Sipping Seattle: A Wine List Examination of Seattle Restaurant Groups

Washington Wine Month has come and gone, ending with a spectacular weekend at Taste of Washington. A lot has happened in the last few years for Washington wine, as wines from Washington continue to win incredible acclaim through national and international wine publications. It is clear that few regions of the world can match the quality for price of Washington wines. Being a sommelier, I have a ton of interest in how restaurants choose wines for their lists. For good reasons, tons of others somms and beverage directors around the United States have chosen Washington wines that over-deliver in the bottle. Locally, in the Seattle area, there are some big players in the restaurant industry that choose Washington wines on their lists. Some of them offer some of the best from Washington at a reasonable price for consumers. I wanted to examine the wine lists at some big restaurant groups in town, including the Heavy Restaurant Group, the Schwartz Brothers Restaurant Group, Chef in the Hat restaurants, Tom Douglas restaurants and Ethan Stowell restaurants, in trying uncover some hidden gems out of Washington.

The absolutely delightful salmon sanwich at Purple Cafe.

The Heavy Restaurant group, for instance, has a huge Washington wine following at their restaurant, Purple. At the Bellevue Purple they have some excellent white wine by the glass value selections including the 2014 L’Ecole No. 41 Chenin Blanc ($11.50 per glass), the 2014 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling (WWB, 91 points, $10.00 per glass), as well as red wine by the glass selections, including the 2013 Walla Walla Vintners Merlot ($15.00 per glass), the 2013 Betz ‘Cuvee Frangin’ (WWB, 90, $20.00 per glass), the 2011 EFESTE ‘Nana’ ($16.00 per glass) and the very classy 2012 Avennia ‘Gravura’ (WWB, 92 points, $17.50 per glass). Excellent values are also found in their strong bottle selection as well, which includes the 2014 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling for only $38.00, the gorgeous 2014 Avennia ‘Oliane’ Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91, $57.00 a bottle), the 2014 Woodward Canyon Sauvignon Blanc ($65.00 a bottle), the 2014 Abeja Chardonnay ($80.00 a bottle), the 2013 SIXTO ‘Uncovered’ Chardonnay ($70.00 a bottle) and the excellent value 2014 Tamarack Cellars Chardonnay (WWB, 91, $35.00 per bottle). Most of their white wine selections by the bottle aren’t marked up more than 2x their retail price which tends to be a rare thing in fine dining.
Red wine values by the bottle are abundant at Bellevue Purple, with the 2008 Boudreaux Cellars Merlot (WWB, 93, $80.00 per bottle), the 2013 Walla Walla Vintners Merlot ($58.00 per bottle), the 2012 Kerloo ‘Stone Tree Vineyard’ Malbec ($85.00 per bottle), as well as the 2013 Andrew Will Cabernet Franc ($56.00 per bottle), the 2013 Gramercy Cellars ‘Lower East’ Cabernet ($69.00 per bottle), the 2013 Amavi Cabernet ($58.00 per bottle), the 2013 Saviah Cabernet ($56.00 per bottle) or the very impressive 2012 Abeja Cabernet (WWB, 93, $99.00 per bottle). Similar good value wines are found at the Purple locations in Seattle (http://www.purplecafe.com/p…/PurpleSeattle_Menu_WineList.pdf).The Woodinville location has even more of a Woodinville focus (http://www.purplecafe.com/…/PurpleWoodinville_Menu_WineList…). These prices don’t exactly break the bank for some of Washington’s great wineries. At Woodinville Purple, glass pours offer some excellent values with favorites such as the 2014 Alexandria Nicole ‘Crawford Vineyard’ Viognier (WWB, 90, $14.00 per glass, $54.00 per bottle), the 2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Indian Wells’ Cabernet ($38.00 per bottle) and the absolutely fantastic 2012 EFESTE ‘Final Final’ Red Wine (WWB, 92, $15.00 per glass). For a splurge try the stunning (but a must decant) 2012 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ (WWB, 94, $108.00).
While I absolutely love the food at the Heavy Group’s Capitol Hill Tex-Mex restaurant, ‘Barrio’, there is only one Washington wine selection on the menu. The same is not true at the Heavy group’s excellent Woodinville ‘Commons’ restaurant, which focuses on home-style American meals and boasts a high percentage of Washington wines on their list. Excellent values include the 2014 Lauren Ashton Rose ($14.00 per glass, $48.00 per bottle), the NV Treveri Sparkling Rose Sec ($44.00 per bottle), as well as the 2014 Dusted Valley ‘Boomtown Chardonnay’ ($10.00 per glass, $38.00 per bottle). They also have amazing buy on the 2013 Baer ‘Shard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 91, $40.00 per bottle) which is less than a 2x markup, and offer the 2013 Les Trouves White ($12.00 per glass, $46.00 per bottle), as well as the 2013 Two Vintners Syrah ($44.00 per bottle) and the 2013 JM Cellars ‘Bramble Bump Red’ (WWB, 90, $49.00 per bottle). These are some excellent value selections from the Heavy Group.

The rich and decadent crab cakes at Chandler's Crabhouse

The Schwartz Brothers restaurant group has a longstanding foothold in the Seattle dining scene. Washington wine has a very strong showing at Chandler’s Crabhouse, located in Seattle on a gorgeous Lake Union backdrop. Their wine list has many great values and is particularly strong with their Washington red wine selections by the bottle. Some of the good Washington values include the NV Chateau St. Michelle ‘Michelle’ Sparkling Wine ($10.00 per glass), the gorgeous 2013 Long Shadows ‘Poets Leap’ Riesling (WWB, 90, $13.00 per glass, $48.00 per bottle), and the 2014 Structure Cellars ‘Blueprint’ White Blend ($13.00 per glass). Their red wine glass pours excel as well with their 2010 Five Star Cellars Cabernet (WWB, 91, $16.00 per glass) and the 2012 L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot (WWB, 91, $14.00 per glass). By the bottle they have many selections including the 2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Indian Wells’ Chardonnay ($45.00 per bottle), the 2013 Matthews Winery Sauvignon Blanc ($50.00 per bottle), the 2014 Alexandria Nicole ‘Crawford Vineyard’ Viognier (WWB, 90, $55.00 per bottle) an excellent buy on the 2013 Buty White Wine ($56.00 per bottle), the stunning 2013 Abeja Chardonnay (WWB, 93, $85.00), as well as my #2 wine of 2015, the 2013 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate’ Blanc (WWB, 95, $80.00). For Washington red wine lovers, they offer many selections including the venerable 2010 EFESTE ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet ($115.00 per bottle), the gorgeous and elegant 2011 Dunham Cellars Cabernet (WWB, 93, $100.00 per bottle), as well as my number three wine of 2015, the 2012 Woodward Canyon Cabernet ‘Artist Series’ (WWB, 95, $120.00). Their collection of Washington red blends is so expansive that they boast 30 selections, including the stunning 2012 Col Solare (WWB, 94 points, $130.00), the 2008 Cote Bonneville ‘Carriage House’ (WWB, 93, $125.00), the 2012 Quilceda Creek ‘Red Wine’ (WWB, 94, $120.00 per bottle) and the 2013 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ (WWB, 93, $105.00 per bottle).
Daniel’s Broiler also boasts a fantastic wine list at their Bellevue location. Their Washington wines by the glass selections include the 2013 L’Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay (WWB, 90, $14.00), as well as the 2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Indian Wells’ Cabernet ($13.00), as well as the 2013 DeLille Cellars ‘Doyenne AIX’ (WWB, 92, $20.00 per glass) and the 2011 Lauren Ashton ‘Cuvee Estelle’ Red Blend (WWB, 91, $15.00) that expresses the best of a cold vintage in Washington. By the bottle there are great choices with the fantastic 2013 Abeja Chardonnay (WWB, 93, $80.00), the 2013 Chateau St. Michelle Chardonnay (WWB, 90, $40.00), and the exceptional 2013 Dunham Cellars ‘Shirley Mays’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93, $70.00), as well as the 2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Eroica’ Riesling (WWB, 93, $50.00) and the 2014 Cote Bonneville ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Riesling (WWB, 91, $50.00). Their Washington red wine selection is even better, with over 40 Washington Cabernets to choose from! Some values include the 2012 Novelty Hill Cabernet ($75.00), or the 2012 L’Ecole No. 41 Columbia Valley Cabernet (WWB, 91, $75.00) For a splurge try the absolutely scintillating 2013 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ (WWB, 96, $150.00). There are some other great selections including the 2009 Corliss Red Wine ($150.00), the 2008 Five Star Cellars ‘Stellar’ (WWB, 93, $110.00) and the 2013 L’Ecole No. 41 Columbia Valley Syrah ($65.00), and a great price on the 2013 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc (WWB, 91, $60.00).

Luc serves up one of the best burgers in Seattle

The Chef in the Hat restaurant group includes fantastic French bistros ‘Loulay’ and ‘Luc.’ Both are a must try if you are fan of French food that won’t break the bank. The burger at Loulay and Luc is absolutely outstanding and will pair beautifully with a Washington Cabernet. While the Washington wine selections are more limited than those from the Schwartz Brothers restaurants, there are several good Washington wine selections at Luc. Some strong selections include the 2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Mimi’ Chardonnay (WWB, 90, $10.00 per glass, $38.00 per bottle), and the 2013 Tenet ‘The Pundit’ Syrah (WWB, 92, $13.00 per glass, $50.00 per bottle). Other Washington wine values include the 2013 DiStefano Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 88, $40.00 per bottle), the stunning 2012 Abeja Cabernet (WWB, 93, $100.00 per bottle), the 2012 Waters Syrah (WWB, 90, $60.00 per bottle) and the 2013 Alexandria Nicole ‘Quarry Butte’ Red Wine ($65.00 per bottle). Luc’s sister restaurant, Loulay, has an intriguing showing in Washington wine, having some unusual and harder to find selections. Their burger is also to die for. It will pair beautifully with the gorgeous 2012 EFESTE ‘Nana’ (WWB, 92) by the glass for only $20.00. Good Washington white wine selections include the 2014 Long Shadows ‘Poets Leap’ Riesling (WWB, 93, $45.00 per bottle), the 2014 Orr Wines ‘Old Vine’ Chenin Blanc ($45.00 per bottle) and the completely stunning 2014 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate’ Blanc (WWB, 95, $80.00 per bottle). They also serve the fantastic 2013 Maison Bleue ‘Metis Blanc’ (WWB, 91, $50.00), the 2012 Kerloo Cellars ‘Majestic’ Grenache/Mouvedre Blend ($55.00 per bottle) and for a splurge the 2011 Cayuse ‘Impulsivo’ Tempranillo Ex Chamberlin Vineyard ($275.00 per bottle) or the 2013 Reynvaan ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah ($160.00 per bottle). Loulay boasts 15 Washington Cabernet selections, ranging from Leonetti, Va Piano, the ethereal 2006 Quilceda Creek Cabernet (WWB, 98, $330.00) and my number 3 wine from 2015, the 2012 Woodward Canyon ‘Artist Series’ Cabernet (WWB, 95, $100.00).

Absolutely delicious crab cakes at Etta's, one of Tom Douglas's signature dishes

Tom Douglas has put his stamp on Seattle. His impressive restaurants range from seafood specialties to prime beef. Unfortunately, many of his wine lists do not have a strong focus on Washington wines. One of my favorite Italian food spots in Seattle is Cuoco, which focuses on Northern Italy. Unfortunately that restaurant focuses on Italian wines and doesn’t include Washington selections. Seatown, another Tom Douglas restaurant located near the Pike Place Market, has only few Washington wines in a more limited wine list. But Dalia Lounge, another of my favorites, has several excellent Washington wines including the 2015 Avennia ‘Oliane’ Sauvignon Blanc ($65.00 per bottle), the gorgeous 2014 Woodward Canyon Sauvignon Blanc ($70.00 per bottle), the 2012 EFEESTE ‘Lola’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92, $80.00 per bottle) and the 2013 Nine Hats Chardonnay ($50.00 per bottle). Washington reds are well-represented with the 2013 Syncline ‘Subduction’ Red ($49.00 per bottle), the 2012 Januik Cabernet (WWB, 92, $70.00 per bottle), and include awesome buy on both the 2012 Novelty Hill Merlot, (WWB, 92, $49.00 per bottle) and the 2011 Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot (WWB, 91, $70.00 per bottle). Dalia Lounge has some of the best buys in Washington wine in Seattle dining. If you only fancy a half bottle, check out the 2013 L’Ecole No. 41 Columbia Valley Syrah (WWB, 91) for only $30.00. Finally, Tom Douglass’s Greek themed restaurant, ‘Lola’ also has a few good Washington wine selections, none more than the 2013 Long Shadows ‘Poets Leap’ Riesling (Half bottle, WWB, 90, $26.00). By the glass they have the 2013 Mark Ryan ‘The Chief’ ($15.00), in this mostly international glass list and offer good buy on the 2012 Gramercy Cellars Syrah (WWB, 92, $90.00 per bottle).

The buratta at Tavolata is the best in Seattle

My final highlight, and not least at all, are the Ethan Stowell restaurants, which include Tavolata, Red Cow, How to Cook A Wolf and many others. Many of these restaurants have worldly wine lists but do not feature a wide range of Washington wines. Ethan Stowell’s Tavolata has always been one of my favorite spots for quality Italian food. Located on Second Ave. in Belltown, I think that Tavolata has the best burrata in Seattle, hands down. Their wine list has improved over the years and currently has a few Washington selections including the 2013 Buty ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay ($43.00 for half bottle), the 2011 J. Bookwalter ‘Foreshadow’ Cabernet (WWB, 91, $43.00 per half bottle). By the bottle they have the intriguing 2014 W.T. Vintners ‘Perasol’ Pinot Noir Rose from the Columbia Gorge ($47.00), the 2013 Mark Ryan Viognier (WWB, 91, $55.00), as well as a good buy on the cold vintage 2011 EFESTE ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet ($105.00), the 2013 Mark Ryan ‘The Chief’ Red Blend ($55.00) and the 2013 Andrew Will ‘Sangue di Giove’ Sangiovese ($80.00). While having a generally Italo-focused wine list, at How to Cook A Wolf, they have a few good Washington selections by the bottle including the 2014 Mark Ryan ‘Adrian’ Viognier ($45.00), the 2014 Balboa ‘Mith’ Rousanne ($70.00) and the 2014 Gilbert ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay ($44.00). The 2013 Syncline Mouvedre is a great buy at $69.00, as is the 2013 Mark Ryan ‘The Dissident’ Red Blend ($79.00).
Red Cow is their meat focused restaurant located in Capital Hill in Seattle. Look for a few great Washington wine pairings for steak. These include the 2013 Walla Walla Vintners Merlot (WWB, 92, $68.00 a bottle), the 2013 Buty ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Red Wine ($99.00) and the 2012 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet ($145.00). They also offer a good value with the 2013 Betz ‘Cuvee Frangin’ ($67.00 per bottle) which would pair beautifully with a rich ribeye. The 2012 Mark Ryan ‘The Dead Horse’ Red Blend is also a good buy at $125.00 (WWB, and is drinking at its sweet spot right now. Finally, Ethan Stowell’s seafood restaurant, Anchovies and Olives, offers a few good Washington whites, including an excellent price on the 2013 Buty White Wine (WWB, 92, $67.00). They also feature the 2014 Mark Ryan Viognier ($72.00). For red wine look at their 2013 Avennia ‘Justine’ Rhone Style Blend ($84.00 per bottle). Their Italian restaurant that focuses on Roman cuisine, Rione XIII, serves some great pizza but mostly focuses on Italian wines and has only a few Washington wine selections, including a few Mark Ryan red wine selections.

Interview with Steve Robertson, Owner of Delmas and the SJR Vineyard

On a trip to Walla Walla I had the chance to visit with Steve Robertson at his prestigious SJR Vineyard, located in The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA. A cobbled contribution to the wine(s) from this vineyard is evident; an elegant, saline, earthy, savory influence is experienced with Delmas Syrah. The SJR Vineyard has some pretty prime-time neighbors, including Reynvaan’s In the Rocks and several of Cayuse’s vineyards. Steve and Mary’s plan for developing a wine estate of distinction grew out of having formerly lived in Napa Valley (where their daughter Brooke was born).  Both Mary and Brooke share the middle name Delmas. The Robertson family moved to Walla Walla Valley from Bend, Oregon to realize what had become a family vision/passion by 2009. SJR Vineyard was planted in 2007. Steve completed the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program in 2011.  Steve understood thatthe potential for crafting a world-class wine from ‘The Rocks District’ was possible with Syrah, but only if you could control each and every operational element. The size of SJR Vineyard is not large (9.6 acres) and Delmas Syrah consists of what amounts to a field blend between the Syrah and Viognier (another one (1) acre of Grenache will find its way to bottle in a few more years). The Robertson’s are committed to a hands-on, estate vineyard operation. The vineyard is the underlying foundation of their efforts to establish a sustainable brand. While awaiting vine maturation, and given the opportunity to directly understand the specific nuances of each block, the Robertson’s determined to sell some of their fruit to other leading Syrah producers; Gramercy, Rasa and Rotie in order to gain further insights into leading- edge “practices”. Force Majeure will also receive fruit beginning in 2016.

Steve is not one to cut corners. He assembled a professional support team from the on-set that was committed to the family’s vision of a world-class, estate wine. A walk in the vineyard highlights the incredible attention to detail that he manages with the support of Banek Winegrower Management. During the growing season he is always pushing each block to its optimal potential...building on plant energy flow, with the overall goal being balance and consistency...and, with the understanding that you cannot rush the pursuit of the highest quality. Having superstar winemaker Billo Naravane (of Rasa Vineyards) on board as Delmas lead winemaker doesn’t hurt. If you haven’t had the chance to try the absolutely sensuous 2013 Delmas Syrah, it is an absolute treat to savor. Delmas speaks of this site, its distinctive terroir and the Delmas Team’s studied approach/pursuit of a wine worthy of world-class positioning. It is exhilarating to learn of this level of commitment and foresight. Steve’s belief in the potential of ‘Rocks District’ fruit is further evidenced by his spearheading the AVA petition effort to the TTB, while gaining consensual support throughout the Walla Walla Valley; a three plus year effort with the support of Dr. Kevin Pogue. Brooke Robertson joined us for the interview at SJR Vineyard. Brooke will be taking over as lead winemaker in the future, is being mentored by Billo and is currently completing her master’s degree program in viticulture from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo in California. Steve clearly has some very exciting plans for the future; including the development of one smaller vineyard in the ‘Rocks District’. This year SJR Vineyard is pushing its 10th leaf: the vineyard is mature. The fruit will only get better. It was a great pleasure talking wine and viticulture with Steve. Steve is a people person that is kind, passionate and incredibly articulate. His strong background in wine and business is apparent, which serves Delmas very well. Here is my interview with Steve Robertson, owner of Delmas and SJR Vineyard.

WWB: Can you talk about your plan to set up SJR Vineyard?

SR: Our mission was first and foremost to locate and secure a vineyard site where we could craft a truly distinctive wine; where the wine had something truly significant to say, spoke clearly of its “place” and was pleasurable. An important, and particularly rich, reference point for us is Napa Valley. Not too long ago, in the 1980’s, Napa Valley had as many wineries as Walla Walla Valley has today...vineyard land was plentiful and many of today’s iconic Napa vineyards were not yet planted. Of course, the fine wine marketplace has grown exponentially since then. How does one producer differentiate itself from another given today’s playing field and tomorrow’s promise? Today’s fine wine consumer enjoys a multitude of choices and the highest quality wines must speak clearly of “place”. Further, the process from vineyard to the bottle must be very carefully administered with a clear vision of your desired position in the marketplace. There is simply no room for short cuts. After some “local” diligence (wine tasting), we knew where we would focus our wine estate-building efforts: the ‘Rocks District’. At that time the region was referred to as the ‘Rocks’. As mentioned earlier, and like Napa Valley, we knew that you had to assert a larger vision of distinctive quality to the consumer. This vision must reverberate way beyond any individual producer if you are to grow, and then sustain, a larger sphere of influence. It did not take us long to determine to petition the TTB for a new AVA. The very successful Walla Walla Valley AVA was approved in 1984. We had personally witnessed very positive consumer acceptance (even demand for) the so-called sub-AVA’s in Napa, Sonoma and Willamette Valley. This level of consumer demand was/is based upon authenticity and craft; understanding “place of origin” in food and wine beverage products. Ultimately, the AVA (or AOC, DOC, etc.) is a critical component in that pursuit. The ‘Rocks District’ would only enhance the unique character of the Walla Walla Valley, via the only AVA in the United States whose boundary lines were drawn based upon only one (1) soil series and only one (1) land form. How cool is that! (Our next level of focus has been to support a new vision forward for the town of Milton-Freewater; which resides in the middle of the ‘Rocks District’.)

WWB: How did you acquire the land for the SJR vineyard?

SR: Before answering your question, and as suggested previously, wine tasting pointed us towards the ‘Rocks District’. Specifically, we had enjoyed Cayuse wines and were excited about the wine quality prospects that could be achieved from this region; the gift of these little cobbles and high-touch farming. There is a very high level of viticulture and attention to detail that is required to achieve that level of wine quality. There is another important, often unappreciated, contributor to the highest levels of quality; the ability to experiment...to learn. We knew that this would be a journey and we were happy to pursue it within the ‘Rocks District’. I put out some “feelers” in the Valley with grower/producer pals for small parcels within what would become the ‘Rocks District’. We knew that we were going to eventually stumble upon something fantastic. Myles Anderson of Walla Walla Vintners sent me an email one day and said that we might be interested in a parcel that had crossed his path. I was in Napa Valley at the time doing some consulting work. I called Mary and told her about Myles email. Mary drove down from Walla Walla to look at the parcel, called me and said “This is it”.  I said “Write it up”. Literally, an hour later we were working on deal points. It was somewhat providential for us. This 9.6 acre parcel of land we named SJR Vineyard has a fabulous well. That is really important given ‘Rocks District’ incredible drainage capability ( a cobbles and gravels depth of 200-300 feet) and the importance of being able to deliver water to the vines. We “pressure bomb” leaf structure every day post-veraison to assist us in determining irrigation needs. The ability to bring water to the vines immediately (within 13-14 bars atmosphere) is paramount; at 15 bars the plant is dying. The ability to bring water to the entire vineyard when you walk an irrigation tight wire is a luxury.

BR: We are able to turn on every single row of every block at the same time if we wanted to. Of course, each varietal has its own requirement for water. We turn the valves and done deal. We get to work with a fine edge at SJR Vineyard; all to the inevitable benefit of wine flavor. That is a very rare thing. More often vineyard compromises must be made affecting the ability to deliver water to the vines in a timely fashion. I wish I had our capability in many of Napa Valley’s iconic vineyards I have been fortunate enough to work in. Thankfully, there is plenty of clay in Napa soils and, therefore, water holding “buffer” capacity.

SR: Interestingly, there are some striking disparities between the ‘Rocks District’ and Chateauneuf du Pape having to do with water.  ‘CNP’ is the poster child of cobble strewn vineyard and is often referred to when discussing the ‘Rocks District’...albeit ’CNP’ cobbles are 24” deep before clay and other sub-soils take over. Unlike Chateauneuf du Pape (which cannot legally irrigate other than to establish plants), we have the ability to irrigate. However, we must irrigate in short sets of water due to the tremendous drainage capability of our deeply cobbled soils (which also serves our purposes for establishing root structure). The last two vintage years of excessive and steady heat made timely irrigation a critical element. 

With climate change, we can expect water issues to become primary considerations. Fundamentally, water is already problematic if you don’t own the vineyard. Water is a huge advantage for us. Once again, the ability to administer timely control of the operational process goes hand-in-hand with producing the highest quality fruit/wine.

BR: I think it is also important to be good stewards of the water right and not abuse it. It is really important to bring a sustainability ethic to your farming practices. That is something that I have learned throughout my time in this vineyard as well as others that I have had the opportunity to work.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with the 2013 Delmas Syrah with its ripeness, texture and seamless quality. Consumers will be excited to hear about the 2014 Delmas Syrah. What are you expecting with this wine and what are you expecting with the 2015?

SR: The 2014 Delmas Syrah shows a complex bouquet, exquisite balance and a seductive texture with a protracted finish and sits between the 2012 and 2013. The 2014 will be released this October. Ripe tannins and lively acidity provide the framework for aging. We now have six vintages under our belt. Finesse and elegance are two watchwords for Delmas Syrah. We experience more classic Northern Rhone-like aromatics early in the life of the wine. As the wines mature the aromatics lean more towards Burgundy. The 2014 is 14% alcohol (vs. 14.5% for the 2013 and 2015), and it is the first vintage that we were able to use our #470 clone Syrah in the blend along with the Joseph Phelps clone. As far as we know, we are the only ‘Rocks District’ grower utilizing the #470 clone of Syrah. This gives us a broader flavor profile and another layer of complexity to enjoy. We use three cultured yeasts for the primary fermentation and enjoyed an ideal fermentation curve with the 2014. We incorporated slightly more Viognier in the co-ferment (8.3%) and, like the 2013, utilized 50% whole cluster in our open top fermenters. Also, worth noting with the 2014 vintage, and after four years of cooper experimentation, we have arrived at our “house oak program” for Delmas; which, given SJR Vineyard’s unique ability to integrate oak tannins, allows for 60% new French oak...via three coopers. In an effort to truly bring something distinctive to the marketplace...that is recognized as Delmas...we are willing to take our time and invest our resources as required.  We know that today there are 120 wineries in Walla Walla and that there will twice that many in the not too distant future. We know that the 280 wine grape planted acres of ‘Rocks District’ land will one day be 1,200 planted acres. We know that we better be able to stand out in this competitive environment, particularly given our legacy intentions; with Brooke eventually in control of the endeavor. That is why we initially chose to focus on vineyard development and producing only one (1) wine. Our business model further allows for a total of three (3) wines; a Viognier to be released to our allocation list in 2020 and a Grenache, which is scheduled to be released in 2022.

Finally, we are very excited about the 2015 [Delmas Syrah] in barrel. Our yields were off 30% in 2015, given a fall freeze event and summers excessive heat. So, this is a really limited production Syrah. For Delmas we realized 1.6 tons/acre of grapes! We were really selective. We will just barely be able to take care of our current allocation list from that vintage. Billo and I are blown away with how early the wine is seemingly integrating its oak and the pronounced flavor profiles. We have a 15 month barrel program for the Syrah...bottling in December. Oh, and we are particularly excited for the 2016 harvest...when we will double our production and be able to attend to many more prospective customers who have signed up on our waiting list.

#steverobertson #sjrvineyard #sjr #wallawalla

Taste of Washington 2016

Another year and another spectacular Washington wine event has come and gone. Taste of Washington 2016 was an absolutely incredible event, just as it is each year. I wanted to pass on some of the highlights from the weekend. With my media pass I was able to gain entrance one hour early, which gave me some extra time talking with winemakers and restaurant industry folks. I was even able to grab some time with John Howie, himself, as he talked about his impressive wine list and three level 3 sommeliers he employs at his restaurants. His appetizers at the Alaska Airlines Lounge were top shelf, including crab cakes, creamy mushroom bisque and beef tenderloin.

In terms of tasting, there were some standout wines. The 2013 B. Leighton ‘Gratitude’ (WWB, 93) was a stunning and seamless wine that will be sure to impress GSM lovers across the Northwest. Andrew Will had some gorgeous bottlings, including their 2012 Ciel du Chevel Red Wine (WWB, 94) and their 2012 Sorella (WWB, 93). Each had incredible richness and texture. The 2013 Bunnell Family Cellar Cabernet (WWB, 93) was an absolutely stunning effort from head winemaker Ron Bunnell. This wine was both viscous and balanced, showcasing this excellent vintage. There were some excellent value wines as well, none exceeding the excellent 2013 Claar Cellars Riesling Ice Wine (WWB, 93) which checks in at 21% residual sugar and has excellent balance and intensity. For Chardonnay lovers, another value was the 2014 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Canoe Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which is a great case buy and shows impressive range of fruit profiles, with a lovely cream finish. Here are some of the fantastic wines that I recently tried at Taste of Washington.

2012 Andrew Will ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- This flagship wine from this estate is one of the best that I have sampled from Andrew Will in the past 10 years. The wine has aromas of sandalwood, red cherry mocha and figs. The density coats the palate, yielding intense flavors of blackberry, anise, mocha and creme de cassis. Dense and delicious wine that will cellar beautifully. Drink 2016-2028- 94

2012 Andrew Will ‘Sorella’- This intense and rich bottling has aromas of blueberry compote, blackberry and mocha. The wine has rich flavors of blueberry, anise, mocha, creme de cassis and lovely minerality coat the palate. Gorgeous wine that is new world meets Bordeaux. Drink 2016-2028- 93

2015 Charles and Charles Rose- This value wine begins with lovely feminine aromas of white peach, red raspberry and red cherry. Flavors of guava red cherry and red raspberry. This is an excellent value wine that is tough to put down right now. Drink 2016-2020-88

2013 Sixto ‘Frenchman Hills Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This expressive Chardonnay bottling begins with deep aromas of butter, brioche and pear. This leads to dense flavors of starfruit, red delicious apple, and nutmeg with brioche. Lovely intensity. Drink 2016-2022- 93

2014 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Canoe Ridge Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This great Chardonnay bottling begins with bright aromas of pear, starfruit. and cut grass, with Gala apple. There are rich flavors of poached pear, Pazzaz apple and vanilla with a lovely cream finish. very nice. Drink 2016-2022- 92

2014 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Eroica Gold’ Riesling- This lovely Spatlase style Riesling has bright aromas of golden delicious apple, with white raisin. This leads to medium weight flavors of apricot, golden delicious apple and pear that sit aside racy acidity. Drink 2016-2023- 92

2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Canoe Ridge Vineyard’ Merlot- The wine has aromatics of prune, red cherry, red raspberry and sage. This leads to medium weight flavors of red cherry, boysenberry and baking spices with very light tannins. Drink 2016-2023- 91

2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Canoe Ridge Vineyard’ Cabernet-This wine has a lovely herbaceous aromatic profile with red bell pepper, red cherry and sagebrush. There are medium weight flavors of mocha, red cherry, red raspberry and blackberry preserves. Plush fruit that makes this hard to resist right now. Drink 2016-2033- 91

2014 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This standout Chard starts with aromas of poached pear, red delicious apple, with suggestions of starfruit. Flavors of red delicious apple, marzipan and nutmeg. Lovely vanilla finish with nice minerality. Drink 2016-2021- 91

2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet- This herbaceously aromatic wine starts with red bell pepper, red cherry, and lavender on the nose. There are medium weight flavors of baking spices, blackberry and black cherry with hints of black olive. Lovely Washington style Cabernet that is done in the forward style. Drink 2016-2022- 91

2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Druthers’ Cabernet- There are dense and lovely aromatics of baking spices, red cherry, red currant with red bell pepper. This leads to rich flavors of blackberry preserves, red cherry, and mocha with lovely density. Intense and moderately tannic now. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2011 Coach House Cellars Cabernet-This cold vintage wine has herbaceous aromas of mint, red bell pepper, and blackberry. This leads to lighter flavors of blackberry, black cherry, and black olive. Drink 2016-2022- 87

2013 Co Dinn ‘Roskamp Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This Chardonnay combines Dijon clone 76 and 96. The Chardonnay begins with aromas of nutmeg, Red Delicious apple and Bartlett pear. There are medium weight flavors of Gala apple, starfruit and poached pear a cream finish. Lovely texture and minerality. Drink 2016-2023- 92

2013 Co Dinn ‘Painted Hills Vineyard’ Cabernet –This expressive bottling begins with aromas of red bell pepper, anise and spicebox. There are smooth flavors of red cherry, red raspberry and blackberry pie. Lovely mouthfeel and texture to this elegant Cabernet bottling. Drink 2016-2025- 91

2013 Co Dinn ‘Roskamp Vineyard’ Syrah- This juicy Syrah has aromas of wet stone, red cherry and blackberry preserves. There are medium weight flavors of anise, blackberry jam, and cassis. Smooth and viscous wine that is polished and maintains that hallmark elegance of the winemaker. Drink 2016-2025- 92

2013 Dunham Cabernet Franc- This winery only bottling is sourced from Double Canyon fruit. The Cab Franc opens with aromatics of red cherry, red raspberry, blueberry compote and hints of coffee grounds. There are dense flavors of blueberry, boysenberry and mint. Lovely depth to this fantastic bottling. The structure makes this hard to resist right now. Kudos to the Dunham winemaking team on this one. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2012 Pursued by Bear Cabernet- On the softer side, this wine has aromas of mocha, mint eucalyptus and blackberry. This leads to medium weight flavors of blackberry pie, black cherry, black olive and cassis. Polished and showcasing the elegance of this great vintage. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2013 Purple Star Sauvignon Blanc- This is a balanced style of Sav Blanc. The wine has aromas of cut grass, pear and Gala apple. This leads to medium bodied flavors of pear, lemongrass, and lychee. Lovely effort from this warmer vintage. Drink 2016-2020 -89

2014 For A Song Riesling- This value Riesling has aromas of Pazzaz apple, cut grass and ripe pear. There are medium bodied flavors of unripe pear, golden delicious apple and Meyer lemons. Vibrant wine that needs a hot summer day. Drink 2016-2022- 89

2013 Bunnell Family Cellar Cabernet- This delicious and open style Cabernet begins with intense aromas of creme de cassis, anise and blackberry compote. This leads to dense flavors of black olive, black cherry, cassis and blueberry compote. Absolutely stunning rich and balanced Cab. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2012 Bunnell Family Cellar Cabernet-This balanced wine has aromas of tar, sagebrush, cassis and mocha. Not as intense as the 2013 but bringing medium weight flavors of blackberry, black olive and black cherry persist alongside mild tannins. Very solid with a long finish. Drink 2016-2025- 91

2012 Ambassador Vineyards of Washington Syrah- This excellent balanced Syrah has aromas of anise, red cherry and sagebrush. This leads to medium weight flavors of anise, red cherry, lavender and blackberry jam, roasted dates with very light tannins. Delicious and open Washington style of Syrah. Drink 2016-2022- 90

2013 B. Leighton ‘Gratitude’- This new release GSM wine begins with aromas of red cherry, lavender and wet stone. There are deep flavors of red cherry, guava, and blackberry compote amalgamate alongside a lovely smooth texture. Delicious and lithe wine that is absolutely gorgeous right now. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2013 Claar Cellars Riesling Ice Wine- This is an excellent value sticky. The wine opens with aromas of apricot, golden delicious apple and white raisin bring nice intensity. This leads to flavors of white raisin, golden delicious apple and pineapple. Bursting with acidity this is gorgeous right now. Drink 2016-2022- 93

2014 Gordon Estate Late Harvest Gewurtztraminer- This lovely effort has aromas of lychee, orange blossom and pineapple. Flavors of orange marmalade, creme brûlée and pineapple. Delicious and mineral drive effort is a joy to drink right now. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2010 Naked Winery ‘Orgasmic’ Late Harvest Riesling- This value dessert wine has flavors of orange rind, red delicious apple and white raisin. This leads to medium weight flavors of orange marmalade, white raisin and hints of blood orange. Drink 2016-2025- 90

2012 Brian Carter Cellars ‘Opulento’- This intriguing dessert wine begins with aromas of blackberry, black cherry and mint flavors of boysenberry, preserves, mocha and coffee grounds. Lovely texture and weight. Drink 2016-2026- 90

 #andrewwill #briancarter #gordonestate #nakedwinery #claarcellars #bleighton #dunhamcellars #chateaustmichelle #ambassadorvineyards #bunnellfamilycellar #forasong #codinn #cotebonneville #purplestar #pursuedbybear #sixto #charlessmith #andrewwill #tasteofwashington #washingtonwineblog

Interview with Jason Gorski, Production Winemaker at DeLille Cellars

As part of our Washington Wine Month feature, we bring you another winemaker interview. Superstar winemaker Jason Gorski serves as the production winemaker at DeLille Cellars. Jason is a Duke University grad that fell in love with wine in college. He has worked a huge range of winemaking positions, everywhere from working at a rural New Jersey winery, to studying under Bob Bertheau at Chateau St. Michelle. Jason has a huge range of wine experiences, making everything from late harvest Chenin Blanc to rich and layered Syrahs. If you try the releases from DeLille, you will see his talent in the glass. Talking with Jason was such a pleasure. I found him to be humble, extremely hardworking and highly knowledgeable, having an extensive background in the Washington wine industry. Here is my interview with Jason Gorski, winemaker at DeLille Cellars.

WWB: Can you talk about how your education at Duke University prepared you as a winemaker? What were some of your inspirations?

JG: When I was at Duke I started as a pre-med but I decided not to do that. While at Duke I was really loving the biological sciences. But more than that, I was first introduced to wine in college. I actually fell in love with Walla Walla and wines of Washington right away and wanted to learn more and more about wine. The more I learned about wine, the more I wanted to be a winemaker. As college progressed, I began to have it firmly in my head that I was going to try my hand in winemaking. My mentor was my professor of some of my favorite classes like anatomy. My mentor was a great guy and introduced me to wine because he was previously a somm in California. He helped me learn about wine through bind tasting. It was really intimidating doing some blind tasting with him because he was so knowledgeable but it was a great experience. I learned about winemaking from him. One thing he told me is to take a career in wine seriously. He told me that I needed to jump in head first and so I took that advice to heart and tried to get into any winery that I could.

I was able to find a winery that was about 45 minutes away from where I grew up in New Jersey. That was in 2002 when I had graduated from college. I went to Costa Rica with my mentor and studied animals down there but then came back and started making wine. I had always been interested in biology and I studied plant anatomy. But I also had a history of studying beer and wine and even brewed beer in college. We grew mushrooms, made sauerkraut and it was interesting how food is related to biology. I had a good background of the physical sciences of it but having a strong science background helps you have a scientific approach to things. There is a lot of craftsmanship to things but the science background really helps me with my current winemaking abilities.

WWB: Can you talk about your first winemaking jobs in Washington?

JG: After a few years I moved to Chateau St. Michelle and started making wine from them. They handed me a lot of the smaller lots and I was able to work with some of the really exquisite late harvest wine projects. I started making wine at Chateau St. Michelle in 2004. I was on the Chenin Blanc project that was scored so high by Wine Spectator, it got some massive scores. Working on the late harvest wines as a huge success, as we were able to produce some excellent and really high scoring wines. I also worked on the TBA (Trockenbeerenauslese) select project that was managed to ferment this nectar into 7% dessert wine. That was a lot of fun working on that project. It was really precious stuff and I can remember getting every drop with a squeegee. The wine was like a dollar each drop.

I was afforded many great winemaking opportunities at Chateau St. Michelle. It is a really large production company where you are doing a lot of things. You work a little on everything, which helps make you a well-rounded winemaker. During harvest I was doing the must adjustments, helping with racking and working on getting the wine ready for the barrel. I also worked with a lot of filtration. During blending season I was helping to grab samples for the winemakng team. I was not making winemaking decisions but was trying to help with that while I was there. After some time there I decided to leave St. Michelle and then moved on to Spring Valley. The winery planted some new vineyards in 2007. I really enjoyed learning about that project. I started at Spring Valley in the beginning of 2008. They utilize 100% estate fruit and are one of the few projects in the state like that. When I first started there my job was scouring for problems and doing the not fun things and counting buds and crop estimates. But that was useful because you are literally where the vines grow every single day. It was a great experience to go with the growing season each day. That was pretty rewarding to go out there and see the vine pruned all the way through and then harvesting the fruit that turns into delicious wine.

Besides being around the vines Spring Valley was very hands on in terms of the size. You have the chance to wear a lot of hats and then made a lot of Merlot and Cabernet Franc there and developed a love and appreciation for that. They have a good reputation for those varietals there and Washington is a state known for Merlot. Cabernet is still the blue chip though. It was very unique story of Spring Valley there as they first came out in the late 90s. They produced one of the wines that put Washington on the map because the first two vintages made the Wine Spectator Top 100. I can remember that being a really big deal. When I was in college I went and bought every Top 25 Wine Spectator wine I could find at the time. One of them I bought was a ’99 Spring Valley Uriah, a really memorable wine. Being able to work there and making wines for them brought things full circle for me. Spring Valley was a great operation and a family business that had been here for a long time. It is not only the quality of the wine it is making the connection with the people that drink it. A lot of the people that came there year after year made it like a family experience. I try to translate that at DeLille. The interaction that I have with people is significant and I want them to feel like there is a family experience here. My last vintage in Spring Valley was the ’07 Uriah. I been able to have made two wines on the Top 100 list from Wine Spectator. I had one wine while I was at St. Michelle and then the ’07 Uriah on the Top 100.

WWB: I was highly impressed by the 2013 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate, which was my #2 wine of last year. Can you talk about that bottling and what you enjoy about the wine?

JG: I always joke that the Chaleur Estate Blanc is my wife’s favorite wine that we make. The winemaking team really likes this wine as well because the vast majority of what we make is red wine. We didn’t create the concept of a Bordeaux blanc but we execute it really well. We put a lot of effort into this wine and we barrel ferment 90 percent of the wine. We have like 200 barrels of this wine and every single barrel is treated separately. Each ferment has a different climate and each barrel are separate living things. We have to smell, taste and test every barrel. Many times during the harvest the Chaleur Estate Blanc program is getting as much attention or even more than the other wine that we make. We are testing every barrel by smelling and tasting and evaluating constantly. We want to see what might be struggling and we are constantly trying to identify the needs of every single barrel. Then we are waiting for malolactic fermentation to go through. Every barrel will be different and we want to have a lot of complexity. When you bring the wine together, the Sauvignon Blanc and the Semillon, you get massive complexity which is what we want. The Chaleur Estate Blanc is so compelling and there are a lot of details that go into this project. We stir the lees every week which is a big project. Every Monday we do that until the wine is pumped off. The use of oak is significant as well. So you get this bright wine that makes you mouth water and you have the creamy aspect from the lees and the sweetness from the oak. It is really a fun and complex project but when it all comes together it is really rewarding and undeniably delicious. It is very easy to justify why one blend is better than another but we try to trust our palate and think about delicious here, which is one of the mantras here at DeLille.

WWB: I recently had the chance to review the dense 2013 DeLille Cellars Signature Syrah. Can you talk about that vintage and the winemaking behind that wine?

JG: I think first of all that the Syrah turned out really great that vintage. We have a less complex Syrah program than Merlot and we don’t source from as many vineyards or blocks. But we try to find different elements. The blocks vary quite a bit and we will have a lot of blending options. Sometimes we will go to press with a native ferment which is slightly behind the other ferments. Sometimes that takes time when it is just sitting there and there is more spoilage than the natural fermentation. Being pressed at the same time as the native ferment, the wine gets some extended maceration flavors and some earthy flavors. The juicy flavors are really nice and the native ferments will have some sweetness left. This is a nice range of flavors based on the different expressions. After elevage you have some interesting characteristics. This is how we can get some of the complexity of the blends. 2013 was nice because we had some Syrah come before Merlot which is not traditional. I think I made some of the better Syrah from that vintage. There was a bit of a slowdown from the first Syrah that was getting pressed and then getting it into traditional Syrah season. Stylistically we had a bit of both worlds that year. Some of the longer hanging fruit was shriveled and rich and then some was picked earlier and had the red fruit flavors that was nice as well. Overall I thought our Syrah grapes were exceptional in 2013.

WWB: You guided me through a number of 2014 release wines in the barrel, including the highly impressive lineup of red wines from DeLille. Can you talk about the 2014 vintage and some of the challenges with the hot vintage? What are some of your favorite varietals that you worked with that year?

JG: 2014 was a warmer vintage. The biggest challenge because of the heat, everything came almost all at once. Normally for Washington you have Cabernet slowing down with its development in the fall and nature helps keep the fruit on the vine. In 2014 we got almost everything early and almost everything right at once. The challenge is there and you have to have enough powers in the vineyard to pick and truck drivers to get us the frit. We had to take good care of the fruit. That was one of the biggest challenges is that the growers almost couldn’t keep up. The varietals overlapped quite a bit which can be a problem with picking. That can have a snowball effect and it is harder keeping things on schedule. Having the agility to change our plans because that is what happened that year.  I felt like in 2014 the whites did a good job. The flavors came on appropriately. It is concerning when you get a lot of heat in August, and you might not get the flavor development with the sugars but the white wines turned out really beautifully. I think Cabernet was a great performer in 2014 and might be the star of the show. Our growers did a great job showing things down in the vineyard and we got into October and the added hang time really helped things with the cabernet. The Cabernet that we picked in October was really nice.

WWB: Many people have been concerned about the heat of the 2015 vintage. What are some of the vineyard management techniques that you had to take that year?

JG: The thing about 2015 was although it was warm it was one of the most consistently warm vintage. We had to remind ourselves that everything was happening quicker than normal. We had bud break early, harvest early and everything was very quick. It was warm but there wasn’t a weeklong period where it was a lot warmer from one week to the next. You want to keep everything propped up and protected from the sun. We are so much into the fruit and managing the tannins can be a big challenge. Normally we have to manage tannins through irrigation and you have to manage not watering the vines. You want them to struggle and the irrigation can develop the tannins. But if it is really hot you can have all the leaves fall off if you are not careful. Our vineyard managers balanced irrigation in a tough year. We are blessed that in Washington we can use that. We have a good access to water and much better than California. I think we did a good job last year. The only challenge was it was early harvest and compressed. The growing season ended early and didn’t stretch into October which is what we ideally would want with the Cabernet. We didn’t get the later season fruit but we are still really happy with the fruit that we got. It was a sprint last year but we kind of knew. It was like 2011 that we knew it was going to be late. We knew 2015 was going to be early picking for the fruit.

As far as the wine quality I like the whites but I am more impressed with the reds. These are broad on the palate. We have tons of fruit from this warm vintage but these wines are extraordinarily complex as well. We are not worried about flavor development and the fruit is not in your face. They are broad and complex on the palate. For young wines they seem incredibly compelling and we are cautiously optimistic that they might be better than the 2012s. These 2015 red wines are showing beautifully right now. They are lower acid and the natural acidity is lower than average but the wines show every indication that they are going to be extraordinary wines. If they are not long lived then they will only be exceptional for a decade and will provide early drinking enjoyment.

Interview with Elizabeth Bourcier, Assistant Vigneronne of Cayuse Vineyards

Elizabeth Bourcier is a superstar wine producer to watch. For those who have not had the chance to sample her 2012 La Rata, a stunning blend of Grenache (60%) and Cabernet (40%) from the stony Cayuse vineyards, the wine is a spellbinding and memorable experience that is not to be missed. Elizabeth began her winemaking career at the age of 18, studying at Walla Walla Community College's Center for Enology & Viticulture. Following graduation she finished her degree in Viticulture in California, worked harvest in the U.S. as well as abroad and was hired by Christophe as a lab tech in 2008. Since then she has taken on the role of Assistant Vigneronne. At a recent visit to Cayuse, I had the chance to sit down with Elizabeth. She talked about her background in wine and how she was introduced to Christophe Baron, the pioneer of the Walla Walla Rocks region. I found Elizabeth to be incredibly humble and articulate as she talked about her successes with La Rata and Cayuse wines. I think you will very much enjoy learning more about her story. Here is my interview with Elizabeth Bourcier, Assistant Vigneronne of Cayuse.

WWB: Can you talk about your winemaking experience prior to coming to Cayuse?

EB: I grew up in the Seattle area and in high school I was trying to decide what I was going to do. My family has generations back a winery in Bordeaux, in the Cote de Blaye. My dad has been in touch with the winery and the owners there so I maybe wine has been in our blood?! I grew up with parents that love wine and we had wine with dinner each night. I was always learning about wine and asking my parents about wine. Eventually my dad couldn’t answer all of my questions. I was so intrigued with the world of wine. They had brought me to France when I was young and I can still remember the vineyards there. As I was growing up I became more and more interested in studying wine. I learned about the program here at Walla Walla Community College. Myles Anderson was a teacher there and was starting the program there. I came out here when I was 18 and met with Myles. They didn’t have the facility set up yet but I graduated from high school wanted to move to Walla Walla to study wine. I wasn’t even old enough to drink wine legally. Honestly at that point I didn’t know much about wine. I couldn’t have told you what Cabernet Sauvignon was but I had the thirst to learn more about it.

This was in 2002 and jot a lot was going on in the valley and vineyards are kind of just starting to develop.  Walla Walla Community College was the perfect fit for me. I graduated from college and then studied at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and completed my degree in viticulture. I worked a harvest in Paso Robles at a winery called Summerwood. I had also been working at Bonny Doon in the tasting room on weekends during school and that was a great experience. Bonny Doon was producing many different kinds of wines and I learned a lot working there. I also wanted to have a different kind of experience so I worked a season in Argentina. I was in Mendoza, working at a small, custom crush facility. They have actually closed their doors but at the time had their own label. I was fortunate enough to be in South America for six months just traveling and learning about wine. I was able to visit Chile as well and learned there but mostly I had a lot of time in Mendoza. Being there was a great learning experience and I was able to see some different farming methods, which gave me some good exposure. International wine experience is good for anyone, I think. It is hard there because of their relationship to the Andes Mountains which makes growing grapes tough. They have a lot of vineyard issues and they have these crazy hailstorms that can come through and ruin a vintage. The hail that is golf ball size! They also have very different irrigation methods there.

Eventually I made it back to Washington. Originally I was hoping to be close to my family in Seattle and was thinking about Woodinville but I saw the potential in Walla Walla. I wanted to be close to the vineyards and I wanted to have that connection. For me, to be here in Walla Walla was really important. This is where I started my career and I love it in Walla Walla. I saw the potential for growth here when I moved back in 2007. I first started working a harvest at Bergevin Lane. After I finished my harvest there I was connected through a friend with Christophe [Baron] and I had an interview with the company. That is how I started here at Cayuse. I knew Christophe casually from living in Walla Walla earlier during school. I was hired in 2008, and at the time I was mostly doing lab work and that turned into more. We formed a good relationship and worked really well together. I have been at Cayuse since 2008 and the 2016 vintage will be my ninth harvest.

WWB: You’ve been training under one of the most famous North American wine producers, Christophe Baron. What kind of techniques have you learned from him in terms of creating wines and vineyard management?

EB: I come from a wine school background where you are taught what you can and can’t do. You are taught to manipulate the wines in school but working here as a Vigneronne you go with the vintage and respect the vintage. If it is low alcohol or a warmer year you do what you can to make the wine that best that it is without having to intervene. A lot of people are now working on changing things and putting additives in the wine. For me that was the biggest learning process to wrap my brain around this way to create wine. I have learned a lot through biodynamics and the importance of biodynamics in the vineyard and in the wine studio. Really, we have the easy job inside the wine studio and the hard work is out there in the vineyards. It all starts in the vineyard. Also, I felt so disconnected growing up in Seattle with not knowing where your food or meat comes from or where the grapes come from but here in Walla Walla you feel so connected. I think we are all becoming more connected with farm to table type things like that and I think that trend will continue.

WWB: Your 2012 La Rata was a stunner of a wine, with wonderful terroir, a silky texture and plenty of fruit. Can you talk about the winemaking behind this wine and what we can expect from your future La Rata releases in 2013 and 2014?

EB: The 2012 La Rata was an idea that turned into something much bigger than what we expected. That’s how I relate the zodiac sign to what we do today because my sign is the Rat, hence ‘La Rata’. It all started with a wine that I tasted that morning from Clos Erasmus. The wine comes from a female wine maker and I was inspired by it. We tasted her own label, the Laurel blind, as usual during harvest we regularly do blind tastings. We also had good food for lunch and the wine was inspiring. During that time we were picking Grenache and Cabernet and everything came together for a reason that day. I probably would have never thought to put Grenache and Cabernet together. It is not something that we usually do here at Cayuse Vineyards. I remember writing a note to Christophe and I told him that I wanted to put Grenache and Cabernet together. He seemed to support the project. We followed through with the process with fermentation and thought that this wine was something special and different. In the past we had leftovers and tried different Grenache blends and if you have something left over, sometimes we don’t end up something that we enjoy. But the Grenache and Cabernet really work well together. With the wine I want you to see how the Grenache is the star but the Cabernet works well to elevate it. I think we have created something special with La Rata. I think for the 2013 and the 2014 La Rata you will have that same elegant wine and a lot of finesse. Both of those wines have lot of bright and lush, fleshy character. That’s what I love about the wine. It is something so different from the Cayuse wines. Nothing that we make is quite like La Rata.

WWB: The 2012 Horsepower Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache was a stunner of a wine that landed on my Top 10 of last year on my 2015 Washington Wine Blog Top 100. Can you talk about that wine and what made it so special? Also can you talk about the special vineyard, the Sur Echalas Vineyard?

EB: The Horsepower project is Christophe’s vision and it is something he has always wanted to do. I think with the project what you are getting is a lot of hard work in the vineyard and that is something that not a lot of people are doing. This 3x3 spacing is not really something that other wineries can do. This spacing in the vineyard makes the wines different. Something special is going on with the tannin and the structure in those wines. I think that also it is the vines competing with root space and the shading but there is something magical going on in the glass. There is tremendous work that goes into the vineyard with the horses and the biodynamic sprays that is done with people using heavy backpacks. The results are in the wine. It is something magical when you are out there with the horses that are working the vineyard. You can’t really describe it. Bringing that animal component to the vineyards is really cool and unique. I will never forget when I first saw the horses working the vineyard. That was something really special. I love being out in the vineyards with the horses. It is hard to believe that the massive animal fits through the vines!

WWB: You and Christophe Baron have produced some fascinating projects in wine. Can you talk about plans for future projects and your desire to innovate?

EB: That is one thing with Christophe is he wants to take things to the next level. Each year just trying to figure out what we can do to make the wines better. We really strive for that. I think a lot of that is constantly tasting and tasting wines from around the world and pushing ourselves to getting something as good as these old world wines. We have those inspirations to be just as good as the top producers in the world. We always want to be at the top and we never stop striving for that.  I have a strong desire to be better. I am not happy with just staying at one point. I want to make wine that inspires people. When you try the Cayuse wines, the No Girls, Horsepower and La Rata, you want that ‘wow’ factor. If the wines aren’t inspiring then it is not fun for us. When you go through the lineup of wines, it is making a product that makes you think about what it is. It is not just wine, it is something that is always changing and evolving. For the future projects, I am really excited about Tempranillo and the future of Tempranillo here in the stones. The 2012 No Girls Tempranillo was just released in March and I am excited about that wine. I think that Washington has a ton of potential with Tempranillo and the plantings are going to be better and better. It is a varietal that I love working with and maybe that is me getting more involved with Spanish wines and creates a lightbulb in my head.

Rasa Vineyards

On a recent visit to Rasa Vineyards, I had the opportunity to taste alongside superstar winemaker Billo Naravane. Billo discussed the arduous process of completing masters of wine exam (he has almost completed his masters of wine) and the subtleties necessary to blind taste Gruner Veltliner. Billo is on another level than most winemakers and the proof is in the glass. I was first drawn to Rasa a few years back where I blind tasted his 2007 QED Syrah 94 points. The wine was an absolute stunner of a wine that had balance, precision and ripe fruit flavors, alongside vibrant minerality.
Rasa Vineyards was founded by two wine collectors and oenophiles, Pinto and Billo Naravane. They both left their jobs in the computer industry and decided to move to Walla Walla and make wine. Their first vintage was 2007 and they have been a huge success ever since. Billo is not only a talented winemaker but has a bachelor’s degree from MIT and a master’s degree from Stanford. His wine education is the one of the best out there as well, completing the masters program from UC Davis. Billo is one of the few Washington winemakers that can make absolutely stunning Rhone and Bordeaux style wines. He is one of the brightest talents in Washington wine.
Among the recent highlights of my recent tasting was the exceptional 2013 Rasa ‘Primus Inter Pares Monette’s Vineyard’ Grenache (WWB, 95). This pretty and gorgeously textured Grenache is a heavyhitter of a wine that showcases the warmth of the vintage, which creating an intense mineral streak. Another gorgeous new release was the 2013 QED Cabernet Franc (WWB, 94) which was sourced from the famed Weinbau vineyard and showed an exceedingly wide array of aromatics and fruit profiles alongside a silky, Billo Navarene signature, silky texture. The Cabernet Franc is the best expression of the varietal from Washington that I have sampled in the past year and rivals the best from Napa, including the outrageously good 2012 La Jota Cabernet Franc (WWB, 94). But the crème de la crème of the impressive lineup was the 2012 Fiancetto Cabernet (WWB, 96). This wine was so dense, chewy and burly, you almost need a fork to drink it. For those who love the full-throttled and intense style of Washington Cabernet (think Doubleback, Leonetti and Quilceda Creek), this one is right up your alley.
If you have never had the chance to try these special wines, a visit to Rasa is a must. Rasa is located outside of Walla Walla on the eastern side, roughly 15 minutes from downtown. Learn more about Rasa at rasavineyards.com. Some of the wines can be found at specialty wine shops around the Northwest. Most Rasa wines are limited production and go fast, so looking for them online is a good way to start.

2013 Rasa ‘Primus Inter Pares Monettes Vineyard’ Grenache- Fermented in second use puncheons, the wine begins with aromas of rose petals, anise, red cherry and red raspberry and wet rock with suggestions of lavender and provencale herbs. This leads to ripe flavors of gravel, red raspberry, red cherry and nice viscosity with a long finish. This is impossible to resist and is up there with the best Grenache in the state. Polished and absolutely delicious. Drink 2016-2028- 95

2012 Rasa ‘Doctrina Purpitua Bacchus Vineyard’ Syrah- This means 'forever learning' in Latin. This is 85 case production that is sourced from their oldest block of Syrah. The wine begins with aromas of blackberry preserves, creosote, and milk chocolate. This leads to flavors of blackberry jam, anise, cassis and black olive. Drinking beautifully right now but having tremendous structure and intensity. Very viscous wine in the Washington style of Syrah. Drink 2016-2026- 94

2013 Rasa 'Living in the Limelight' Petit Verdot- This is sourced from the Dionysus vineyard. The wine begins with aromas of black olive, blackberry and sagebrush. This leads to flavors of blackberry, mocha, green olive and an intense herbal character. Currently tannic and need some time in the bottle right now, so try to resist for another year. Drink 2017-2030- 93

2013 Rasa ‘QED’ Cabernet Franc- This silky Cabernet Franc is sourced from the Weinbau vineyard. The wine begins with aromas of red bell pepper, dill, sage and red cherry. This leads to flavors of red bell pepper, red cherry, dried sage and red raspberry preserves. Lovely texture and viscosity to this gorgeous bottling. The structure is there. Hard to connect intensity with Cab Franc but this bottling is an intense experience, which represents of the best expressions of the varietals in the state. Kudos to head winemaker Billo Navarene on this impressive effort. Drink 2016-2026-94

2012 Rasa ‘Fianchetto’ Red Wine- This is an XL Vineyard Bordeaux blend of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The wine begins stub aromas of mocha, black cherry and anise. This leads to flavors of blackberry jam, coffee grounds, creme de cassis, anise and done in the hugely modern style. The texture of this wine is ethereal. This is intense Cabernet, showing moderate to heavy tannins at this point that settle after three hours of decanting. The purity of fruit is exceptional here. Drink 2018-2031- 96

#rasa #rasavineyards #washington #wawine #wawinemonth #bilonavarene

Interview with Holly Turner, Head Winemaker of Three Rivers Winery

Holly Turner serves as head winemaker at Three Rivers Winery, a Walla Walla mainstay.  Holly is originally from Oregon wine country in McMinnville, Oregon. Holly holds a bachelor's degree in biology from Western Oregon State College and following school she worked in food science and quality assurance before catching the wine bug. She has a vast experience in the wine industry working at Chateau St. Michelle and Canoe Ridge. At Three Rivers she was first hired as an assistant winemaker and took over more than 10 years ago as head winemaker. Holly talks about her style of winemaking and how she incorporates Sangiovese in blending, something many Washington winemakers don’t do. Learn more about her wines at threeriverswinery.com. I found her a delight to speak with. Here is my interview with Holly Turner, head winemaker at Three Rivers Winery.

WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine? How did you get inspired to become a winemaker?

HT: I had graduated from college and was working in the Portland Oregon area in food quality assurance. From there I moved to Eastern Washington. At that time I needed a job, so I walked in the Chateau St. Michelle tasting room in Grandview and was hired.  I liked wine but didn’t know much about it; I was home brewing beer, not wine at the time. After of few months in the tasting room I moved into the wine lab at CSM’s Canoe Ridge. I really enjoyed my experience at Canoe Ridge and learned a lot! From there I went to work in Argentina for a vintage then to Three Rivers as the assistant winemaker. Two years later the stars aligned and I took over as head winemaker in 2002, the same year that my twins were born.

After getting into the wine industry, there was no question that this is what I loved to do. I love to make wine. I was hungry for more information and was afforded the opportunity to go to UC Davis for a production class. I worked under some big names in wine and they gave me the opportunity to grow in the business. Learning from them taught me a lot about being a better winemaker. I was immersed in the world of wine which is exactly what I needed.  I had traveled to South America and Europe which really helped me establish the style of wine I wanted to make. I like old world wines age ability and new world wines accessibility. The broad range of experiences I have had has definitely impacted me and my style of winemaking.

WWB: You have a great deal of experience as a winemaker at Three Rivers. What are some techniques that you have picked up over the years in terms of winemaking and vineyard management?

HT: I am contracting most of the fruit for Three Rivers from outside sources, we only have a small 8 acre estate vineyard here at the winery. We have found, over the years that our estate vineyard is ideal for producing beautiful Rosé. We have Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that we intentionally pick early. This gives us higher acidity and less dense color for our Rose. This has been a fun project for us to highlight this special place in time each vintage. As the years pass we’ve been able to source more of our fruit here locally in the Walla Walla Valley. I’d say about 50% is sourced from the Walla Walla Valley and the other 50% from the greater Columbia Valley including the Wahluke Slope and Horse Heaven Hills. As the vineyard sites develop, the fruit quality increases. I’m working with a terrific group of growers that help me achieve my winemaking goals. Definitely a team effort.

WWB: Many people have been excited about the past three vintages, 2013 to 2015. Can you talk about these hot vintages and what kind of wines that you can expect from the vintages?

HT: In Washington making wine in the hotter vintages is definitely easier. The fruit is ripe, so it’s up to you to pick when the fruit fits into the realm of what you’re trying to create.  In these vintages there are many great quality wines across the board. For consumers this is fantastic! Lots of great quality wine choices out there. In terms of the one vintage that I might favor, right now the 2014 vintage is really beautiful. Ripe, complex and interesting wines. Those were my favorite until I tasted the ‘15s. The 2015 reds aren’t in bottle yet but I am really excited, they show great potential. The 2015 vintage was fast and early and we had to be on it during harvest.

WWB: Your Rivers Red is consistently good throughout the last few vintages. Can you talk about the winemaking and blending behind that wine?

HT: River’s Red is an entry level red from our portfolio of wines. The goal is to make it consumer friendly, easily drinkable and versatile. My focus is on making a balanced delicious wine with soft tannins and subdued alcohol. We are using varietals that do have softer tannins and aren’t going to need a lot of bottle aging for them to be palatable. The varietals that we use --Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec -- they all seem to marry quite well together making an interesting complex blend. The wine is aged in small oak barrels which adds to the wines depth. We want to make something that you will want another glass of and I think we do a good job of that with our Rivers Red.

Interview with Keith Johnson, Production Winemaker at Sleight of Hand Cellars

As part of Washington Wine Month, we continue our interview series with a very talented winemaker from Sleight of Hands Cellar, Keith Johnson. Keith is originally from the Pendleton, Oregon area. He moved to Walla Walla to study winemaking and is a graduate of the famous Walla Walla Community College School of Enology. He has had the great pleasure of learning under superstar winemaker, Trey Busch, head winemaker of Sleight of Hand Cellars. The winery has grown exponentially since starting in 2007, as Busch and his partners have created a remarkably successful winery in a very short amount of time. For those of you that have not tried the releases at Sleight of Hand, they come highly recommended. Sleight of Hand (http://sofhcellars.com) has built a reputation for creating powerful red wines that capture the essence of their vineyards. I recently had the chance to talk with Keith about his experiences working at Slight of Hand, the importance of vineyard management, as well as discussing one of his highly compelling new release wines, the 2013 Sleight of Hand ‘The Psychadelic’ Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah (WWB, 93) (http://sofhcellars.com/product-details/0339/2013-Psychedelic-Syrah). Keith was an incredibly friendly guy that has a huge talent, which is evident in his new releases. Learn more about Slight of Hand at sofhcellars.com Here is my interview with Keith Johnson, Production winemaker at Sleight of Hand Cellars.

WWB: Can you talk about how you first became interested in winemaking and your first experiences in wine? Any experience in particular that got you hooked on the world of wine?

KJ: I first became interested in wine while working at a tiny Italian restaurant (since closed) in my hometown of Pendleton Oregon. The owner and chef loved wine, and he was pretty well versed in Napa Cabernet as well as having a keen interest in Walla Walla. We would often open a bottle at the end of a busy service while cleaning up and I just started delving into it more and more on my own as well. I then spent about a year selling beer and wine for a distributor where I had the opportunity to taste more broadly, and really research wine and wine history. I fell in love with the mystique and the culture of wine and wine making, which led me to Walla Walla and the WWCC Enology and Viticulture program in the summer of 2009.

WWB: What are some of the key winemaking elements that you have learned under Trey Busch?

KJ: Trey is probably the most talented “intuitive” wine maker that I know of. Working with Trey has really taught me to trust intuition and your own palate, which are just as important in winemaking as the more technical aspects. I really believe that this leads to more distinctive and personality filled wines, which are what we strive to make. I have also learned from Trey that less is typically more when it comes to handling high quality fruit. If your raw material is great, which ours always is, keeping out of the way as much as possible always leads to better results.

WWB: What are some of the challenges in working with hot vintages that have persisted since 2013? Can you talk about some vineyard management and winemaking that you do so that the wines maintain structure?

KJ: The most important factor in handling a hot vintage is to work closely with our vineyard managers. In hot years, properly managed vineyards are going to have a greater impact on the ultimate wine quality than anything we do in the cellar. Insuring that your vineyard sources have the correct balance of canopy and fruit is essential. I think a lot has been learned in Washington the last few years about vineyard balance, particularly as it pertains to dealing with heat. Also, in the vineyard, picking decisions become even more important in hot years because things happen much quicker than in a cooler or average year and before you know it, you are looking at overripe, shriveled fruit, which is never what we want. Once the grapes arrive at the winery, we really try to be careful with our extraction in the hot years. With the often thicker skins that we see, the tannin profile of the wine can get away from you very quickly. So we try to keep our ferments a little bit cooler and we tend to utilize gentler cap management techniques, which for us typically involves more punch downs and fewer pump overs. Then, the other key to extraction management in the cellar is your pressing decision. When ferments are starting to get close to dry, we are very vigilant about tasting daily or twice daily to insure that we don’t take our tannin profile too far.

WWB: I was very impressed with your 2013 'The Psychadelic' Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah. Can you talk about that wine and how you were able to maintain the level of balance, fruit and terroir?

KJ: For the team at Sleight of Hand, the key to proper balance in Rocks District fruit is whole cluster fermentation. The grapes coming from “the rocks” have naturally very high pH, which gives us a very appealing, lush mouthfeel. The problem is that the high pH can also leave the wines coming across as flabby or even a bit cloying. With whole cluster fermentation, we find that the addition of stem tannin can give the wines a nice “lift” on the palate which balances nicely with the lushness of the wine. The other aspect of making wines from “the rocks” is that you really want them to express the savory terroir which is the hallmark of the AVA. At their most extreme, some rocks wines take the savory profile so far that the fruit is lost. We find that we can maintain a nice balance between fruit and earth by making the correct picking decisions, letting the wines ferment with spontaneous yeast (yes, this makes a huge difference), limiting the amount of oxygen the wines see post fermentation, and by aging barrel for a shorter period of time which helps maintain freshness and individuality.

‪#‎wawine‬ ‪#‎wawinemonth‬ ‪#‎washington‬ ‪#‎slightofhand‬ ‪#‎slightofhandcellars‬ ‪#‎wallawalla‬

Interview with Jason Fox, Owner and Head Winemaker of Lagana Cellars

As part of Washington Wine Month, we bring to you another winemaker interview with an exciting new wine project out of Walla Walla. Jason Fox founded Lagana Cellars in 2013 (http://www.laganacellars.com). He incorporates a different business model than most Washington wineries, focusing on high quality white wine production. A recent graduate of the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticulture program, Jason is able to source from some of the best vineyards in the state, including Sagemoor vineyards. I had a chance to try his 2013 Rousanne, sourced from the Sagemoor vineyards and I found it to be lithe and dense, beautifully showcasing the varietal. Jason has just recently started his winery but I think he has a highly promising future, as he will only continue to improve as a winemaker. A few weeks ago I had the chance to sit down with Jason Fox, owner and head winemaker of Lagana Cellars. He talked about his story in wine and how he started a winery. I think you will really enjoy hearing his story. Here is my interview with Jason Fox, owner and head winemaker of Lagana Cellars.

 WWB: Can you talk about your background in food and wine in Indiana and how you became interested in winemaking? What were some of your first experiences in wine?
 

JF: A brief history is that in Indiana I worked my way up from a line cook to assistant kitchen manager in a restaurant called "Cheeseburger in Paradise", within the Outback Steakhouse family of restaurants. At that restaurant was an enthusiastic bartender who decided to work his way through certifications in the alcohol side of the industry having previously worked in the kitchen at that very restaurant. We became great friends (and still are), and I helped him study and taste for his level 1 and 2 with the Court of Master Sommeliers. I had been a wine drinker since turning 21, but had followed the standard pattern of cheap sweet whites, then go drier, and then finally drink cheap reds! It was in those tastings that we did that I discovered what wine was about, what drove the study/service/appreciation of wine, and finally what premium wine is and can be. I let the idea of sommelier certification rumble in my brain, but ultimately decided to side with production since I am a self-described science nerd. My friend and I moved to WA State in the fall of 2011, where I came to Walla Walla to attend the WWCC Enology and Viticulture program. He continued west to Seattle, where he is now Wine Education Director for Wild Ginger and the Wine Director for their Bellevue location. Many people ask what was the wine that "did it" for you; I have two: a 2005 Chateau Croix de Gay Pomerol (God Merlot can be delicious!!) and a Terra Barossa Shiraz. Obviously on two ends of the spectrum, but those are the ones that did it.

WWB: Walla Walla Community College School of Enology has gained a national reputation for educating some of the best winemakers in the United States. Can you talk about some of the key aspects of learning there? Any particular instructors or mentors that have helped you along your way?

JF: The best way to learn any hands on profession, or even languages for that matter, is direct experience and immersion. That is the goal of education as well as the reason why the WWCC E&V program is so good and respected. From the day you start until the end, you are in the wine and grapes. First quarter, you are picking fruit, crushing, pressing, making additions, and the ever important cleaning like a beast. The students likely have little understanding why they are doing what they are doing yet, but they are doing it. Then in the winter and spring, you learn about the life cycle of vineyards and grapes, learn about insects and pest, irrigation, prune the vines, train/plant vines, and ultimately watch them grow and maintain them through the summer. Then the first quarter of the second year is all internship. You work for harvest at a commercial winery and learn their techniques/house style. You learn their beliefs and views, which are likely different from the scientists teaching the classes at school! Then the hardcore chemistry and lab work is that winter and spring, ending with bottling the very same wine you created at the beginning of the classes. You work full circle making and caring for the vines and wines at the school.

That is the key to the success of the program. Immersion and direct experience. Instead of showing pictures of a crossflow filtration machine and how it works or a pump or press, you just walk downstairs and see it yourself and use it yourself. The placement rate is very high, and obviously, we have been churning out some great students as they are all over the industry in many states! As for mentors or a specific person that specifically helped me: Tim Donahue, Director of Winemaking at WWCC. He is quite science based, as I am, and he latched on to my desire to make white wines and taught me exactly how to make delicious and clean white wines. My internship was with Walla Walla Vintners, and Gordy and Bill certainly influenced me in my reds, but I have also influenced them in their cellar techniques during harvest! I am also convinced that I have Sagemoor fruit only because I worked with Walla Walla Vintners, and the vineyard guys got to know me.

WWB: Can you talk about some of your vineyard sites, such as Airfield Estates and Sagemoor Vineyards? What are some of the vineyard management steps that you've taken in these recent hot vintages like 2013, 2014 and 2015?

JF: I only got Airfield Estates in the first year, so it was a one-off. Therefore, I will forget that one. Sagemoor Vineyards is, I think, one of the best sources for white wine grapes in the Columbia Valley, especially for young winemakers. The prices are on the cheaper side and the quality is great. The vines range in age from the early 70s to more recent plantings, and they are very well cared for. They enjoy constant input from the winemakers and are looking for any specific directions we are looking for in terms of vineyard treatment. All of my whites come from there for the three vintages I made wine. As for the reds, I source from Minnick Hills for Syrah and Breezy Slope for Pinot Noir, both in the Walla Walla Valley. They are good locations for both of those varietals and for the style I am looking to make. In 2015, I added Patina Vineyard for Syrah (Minnick got frosted but is back this year) and Seven Hills Vineyard for Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, and Carmenere. Trying to expand the red offerings for both wine club and consumers now that the tasting room is open. I like the Minnick Syrah for its added minerality, acid, and not so ripe flavors. I like Pinot Noir, so the pickings are pretty slim in the WW Valley; Breezy Slope is the one I knew and was able to acquire fruit from. Seven Hills is pretty expensive, but well respected and greatly cared for. Lastly, I added Patina for the riper and more fruity blending opportunities as well as the reputation of the vineyard. Waters has championed that vineyard.

The hot vintages required a little less attention, to some degree, and here is how I will explain that. Fruit exposure is what we want for thicker skins, better tannin and color, and reduction of green flavors. We also like to see nice VSP-trellised rows that look beautiful and photogenic. But, in a hot year, by doing these things as usual, we will destroy the crop by sunburn and heating the fruit to high temperatures. We want the shade and canopy when its 100 degrees out! So, in hot years, we need to be a little "lazier" and not pull leaves too excessively, not meticulously train the canopy vertical, and not overexpose the fruit. But, we still need to do some of that. Also, the water demand is higher as the vines are being baked out there. More water when it is hot doesn't necessarily mean the vines will grow more leaves and shoots. We need to keep the tendrils alive so that the vines don't push laterals. Sagemoor does some overhead sprinkler cooling, so that helps as well.

WWB: I was particularly impressed with the 2014 Sagemoor Vineyards Roussanne that had lovely structure and weight. Can you talk about the winemaking behind that wine? I'm also interested in your business model, building it on crisp and aromatic white wines. How did you decide to do that?

JF: I believe we don't see enough wines, and I mean whites here, that express time and place. In other words, whites with clear terroir, showing the difference between vineyard and vintage. In recent years, these wines are becoming more popular among the boutique wineries so we are making progress! Also something I champion is letting the wine speak for itself: for the Roussanne specifically, I did not run the wine through ML or barrel age it so that the varietal characteristics would shine through. Yes, this wine never saw a barrel! This was fermented and aged in stainless steel with Radoux ProNektar tank staves. 6% light toast, 6% medium plus toast, and 13% medium toast. I think the oak is too much in the 2014 so I dropped it from 23% to 18% for 2015, but I'm my own worst critic. It was whole cluster pressed with the addition of SO2, ascorbic acid, enzymes, and powdered tannin to the juice. It was fermented with QA23 yeast for 23 days at about 52 degrees before going dry. SO2 was added to stop ML from occurring, it was heat and cold stabilized, and sterile filtered to bottle.

As I mentioned before, I prefer to make whites because there is more science behind it and they are difficult but rewarding. Also, Walla Walla does not have many whites to choose from. I am attempting to fill that niche, make aromatic and crisp, clean whites, and also make some reds that the people really travel to Walla Walla for.

WWB: Do you have any Washington wines or wineries in particular that you gravitate towards? Any international wines that are your favorite?

 JF: As for Washington, I love Maison Bleue, Trust, and Kontos. Those guys make great wine and I am drawn to a few wines at each place depending on what varietal I am looking to drink. As for international, I love Chablis and Alsatian Riesling. Those are my go-to whites. For reds, Vacqueras and Burgundy are where it's at.

Kerloo Cellars

A few weeks back I had the chance to stop by the modern Kerloo tasting room in the SoDo district of Seattle. Ryan Crane founded Kerloo Cellars six years ago in Walla Walla, Washington. His winemaking story began at Animale Cellars in Seattle, many years before starting Kerloo. Ryan later trained under Marie-Eve Gilla at Forgeron Cellars and later completed an AAAS in Enology and Viticulture in Walla Walla.

While in Walla Walla he became Assistant Winemaker at Va Piano Vineyards for three years under Justin Wylie and finally got the nerve to start his own gig. I was highly impressed with the new Grenache release by Kerloo (WWB, 92 points) which showed a gorgeous range of flavors and the feminine side of the varietal. His 'Les Collines Vineyard' Syrah was also rich and complex (WWB, 91) as his lineup of wines showcases his winemaking talent. It is no surprise that all of his wines sell out as the quality is in the bottle. Kerloo has a very strong following in their wine club as they are always hosting big events at their SoDo winery. Kerloo changes their lineup at their tasting room quite regularly, so call ahead to check out what they are pouring. Learn more about Kerloo and their impressive lineup of wines at www.kerloocellars.com. Most of these wines are in the 30-40 dollar range and you can buy their very reasonably priced wines on their website, or look for them at some great Northwest wine shops like Esquin, Pete’s and Met Market. Here is the new lineup of Kerloo wines:

2013 Kerloo 'Upland Vineyard' Grenache- This was aged in neutral oak. The wine begins with aromas of smoke, fed raspberry and pomegranate with red cherry. Flavors of cotton candy, red cherry, pomegranate and ripe guava. Lithe and delicious wine that is a joy to savor right now. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2013 Kerloo 'Stone Tree Vineyard' Tempranillo- This was aged 67% in neutral oak with the rest new American oak. The wine begins with aromas of wet stone, smoked meats, blueberry and teaberry aromas. There are flavors of blackberry, black tea and anise with smoky accents. Lovely structure here. Drink 2016-2026- 90

2013 Kerloo 'Les Collines Vineyard' Syrah- This wine underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation and was aged in neutral oak. The wine begins with dense aromas of boysenberry preserves, tar and sagebrush. This leads to flavors of black tea, blackberry and mocha with creosote. Wonderful minerality and depth to this wine. Drink 2016-2026- 91

2013 Kerloo 'Stone Tree Vineyard' Malbec- This comes from the Wahluke slope. It was aged in 75% neutral French oak so there's a small percentage of new. Sourced from two different blocks which were harvested a week apart, the Stone Tree vineyard sits on a 250 acre property in Mattawa, Washington. There are aromatics of milk chocolate, dill, blueberry and blackberry. This leads to flavors of blueberry, anise, blackberry and mocha. Delicious and rich effort that is hard to resist right now. Drink 2016-2025- 92

#‎kerloo‬ ‪#‎kerloocellars‬ ‪#‎wallawalla‬ ‪#‎sodo‬ ‪#‎wawine‬

King Estate Pinot Gris Vertical Tasting

King Estate Pinot Gris Vertical Tasting

King Estate has a longstanding foothold in the Oregon Pinot Gris market. A staple for somms on wine lists throughout the Northwest, King Estate Pinot Gris has received international acclaim over the years. The winery is located southwest of Eugene, Oregon, outside many of the Willamette Valley producers. There is massive acreage here. Founded in 1991 by Ed King, Jr. and his son, Ed King III, King Estate amasses 1,033 acres (4.18 km2), is Oregon Tilth Certified Organic and has 465 acres of organic vineyards, as well as 30 acres of fruits, vegetables and flowers. Organic farming is paramount at King Estate, which is why they deter pests through the planting of species to attract beneficial insects and through the use of raptors, such as kestrels and owls. This is one of the largest organic vineyards in the world and King Estate produces over 350,000 cases of wine each year.
Pinot Gris originated from the Burgundy and Alsatian regions of France and was brought to Oregon 35 years ago. As a varietal, Pinot Gris is actually a mutation of its ancestor, Pinot Noir. In fact, the Pinot Noir grape mutates more readily than any other major varietal. King Estate has a whopping 314 acres of Pinot Gris planted. I can’t think of another new world winery that has that much Pinot Gris planted. Pinot Gris is such a big deal to King Estate that they have more than double the acreage planted to Pinot Gris compared to Pinot Noir. I also can’t think of any Oregon winery balanced that way but it shows you how important making high quality Pinot Gris is to King Estate.
Both Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris grapes grow in small clusters that resemble pine cones for which they are named. They are genetically identical, sharing leaf shapes, vine structure, and bunch and grape size. However, like the skin of a chameleon, the grape's outer coat can change without warning, resulting in a possible mixture of mutations on the same vine, perhaps even on the same bunch. The lighter Pinot Gris grapes usually are not revealed until the Pinot Noir grapes have darkened. While "gris" means grey in French, the skin of a Pinot Gris grape typically ranges from blue-grey to pinkish brown, depending on climate conditions and vineyard locations. Similarly, the resulting wine hues can greatly vary. In the glass, Oregon Pinot Gris tends to fit in the medium gold range, sometimes with a pale pink tinge. Bottle aging tends to reveal a richer, more golden hue, which is what I saw with the older bottlings of King Estate Pinot Gris, particularly the 2005 King Estate Pinot Gris.
While there is little precedent regarding the aging potential of Oregon Pinot Gris, given the structure of the varietal there is also little evidence that the Oregon based Pinot Gris won’t age well. Pinot Gris ages gracefully in Alsace with the incredible Pinot Gris wines from Domaine Weinbach, Zind-Humbrecht and others. I’ve had many opportunities to sample older Alsatian Pinot Gris but have been afforded little opportunity to check in at the aging potential for Oregon Pinot Gris. The recent results from King Estate were pretty astounding. Even the oldest, more than ten year old, non-reserve, bottlings by King Estate showed beautifully. Needless to say, I was very surprised. The 2005 King Estate ‘Signature Collection’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 90) comes from a good but somewhat challenging growing season that saw a lack of rain during winter and rains during October. This bottling showed the ripeness of an excellent summer growing season and has picked up some intriguing secondary characteristics. It is meant for immediate enjoyment. While the 2007 Pinot Gris might be a slight step behind (WWB, 89), the 2008 King Estate ‘Signature Collection’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 90) equaled the quality of the 2005 and came from a more impressive and balanced vintage. The 2008 has a strong structure and nice weight that will continue to age gracefully for at least a few more years. The 2009 and 2012 King Estate ‘Domaine’ bottlings of Pinot Gris (both WWB, 93) were a completely different animal. Both bottlings displayed the richness, structure and viscosity to cellar for many more years and are drinking beautifully right now. Here are the details from my recent vertical tasting of King Estate Pinot Gris. Learn more about King Estate at https://www.kingestate.com/

2005 King Estate 'Signature Collection' Pinot Gris-Much darker, more golden hue than the other signature collection vintage Pinot Gris. The nose has a complex range of aromas including beeswax, gardenia, nectarine pit and vanilla cream. This has picked up some really nice secondary characteristics with bottle age. There are flavors of honeydew melon, Pazazz apple, marzipan and a touch of cream on the finish. Lovely effort and nice weight from this warm vintage. Hard to believe this is over ten years old. While it is losing some structure and needs to be enjoyed now, this is still drinking beautifully. Very novel bottling. Drink 2016-2018- 90

2007 King Estate 'Signature Collection' Pinot Gris- Lighter and less aromatically intense than the '05 this has cantaloupe, Gala Apple and hints of baking spices on the nose. The palate has lovely structure and less weight than the '05. Light to medium weight flavors of green papaya, Granny Smith apple and poached pear. Lovely minerality considering its age, as this has at least a few more years left in it. Elegant and lithe. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2008 King Estate 'Signature Collection' Pinot Gris-Possessing a slightly riper hue than its '07 cousin, the 2008 brings aromatics of honeysuckle, cantaloupe, and Pink Lady apple with suggestions of nutmeg. There are flavors of cantaloupe, Gala apple, and starfruit and hints of white raisin. Balanced and lovely right now as this has similar structure to the '07 at this juncture but slightly richer weight and mouthfeel. Drink 2016-2020- 90

2009 King Estate 'Domaine' Pinot Gris- This warm vintage wine opens with aromas of red delicious apple, crushed wild flowers and suggestions of star jasmine. There are flavors of Bartlett pear, cantaloupe and Pink Lady apple in this lush and structured wine. The heat from the vintage clearly wasn't a problem for the wines structure. Gorgeous mouthfeel with the plush texture and bright minerality. Drink 2016-2023- 93

2012 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris- The 2012 is an absolutely flat out delicious effort from this spectacular vintage. It is comprised of Pinot Gris clones 146 and 152, which are sourced from Bellpine, Jory, and Dupee soils rich in silty clay loam. This was aged in stainless steel and then aged sur lees for 5 months prior to bottling. The balance and ripeness is there. Intriguing nose of wild mushroom, green papaya, and Bartlett pear. There are ripe flavors of honeydew melon, Gravenstein apple and in this intense bottling. Wonderful long and lingering finish to this gorgeous bottling. Drink 2016-2025- 93

‪#‎kingestate‬ ‪#‎washingtonwineblog‬ ‪#‎oregonwine‬ ‪#‎pinotgris‬ ‪#‎oregon‬

Interview with Christian Sparkman, Director of Winemaking and Owner of Sparkman Cellars

It is an arduous task for a winemaker to make both excellent red and white wines but Sparkman Cellars is one of the few wineries that can make quality wines from Riesling to Cabernet -- and everything in between (http://www.sparkmancellars.com/). Chris Sparkman has a huge hand in the Washington Wine Industry. Sparkman holds a Master’s Degree in International Environmental Policy from the Monterey Institute of International Studies. Originally from Knoxville, Tennessee, he has worked a wide variety of jobs, from being in the Peace Corps to leading a group of students in building a school in Gambia, Africa.

Sparkman boasts an impressive a history of working in high end restaurants and served as general manager of Seattle’s Waterfront Seafood Grill from 2003-2011. In 2010 he was named ‘Sommelier of the Year’ by Seattle Magazine. Previously, Sparkman headed service teams at Olives in Washington, D.C.(1999-2000), The Orangery in Knoxville, TN   (1991-94), Michael’s in Santa Monica, Calif. (1986-87), and the famed Commander’s Palace in New Orleans (1984-86) which has received worldwide acclaim for their wine list.

While at the Waterfront Seafood Grill, Chris Sparkman and his wife, Kelly, decided to start Sparkman Cellars in 2004. Since that time the winery has expanded exponentially. Sparkman has an impressive range of wines from Washington and even produce a Pinot Noir from Oregon. Christian currently serves as Chairman of the Washington State Wine Commission’s Board. He also currently sits on the Boards of Directors of the Auction of Washington Wine and Visit Seattle. I recently had the opportunity to sit down and talk wine with him. Here is my interview with Chris Sparkman, co-owner and director of winemaking at Sparkman Cellars.

WWB: I think you have hit a home run with your 2012 ‘Evermore’ Cabernet. I was very impressed with the structure and purity of fruit to this wine. Can you talk about that wine and that great vintage?

CS: I have been pursuing fruit from Dionysus Vineyard fruit for a few years and have been a fan of old vine Washington Cabernet. This is one of the oldest vineyard in the state and was planted in 1972. For many years I have wanted a chance to get the fruit from Dionysus and in 2012 we were able to procure some of their Riesling, which I called our ‘Birdie’ Riesling. That Riesling ended up being the number seven wine in the world from Wine Enthusiast and we were really proud of the project. There is something special about old vine wine from Washington. This ‘Evermore’ Cabernet, comes from two different blocks in the Dionysus Vineyard -- one planted in 1998 and one planted in 1972. We already had two Cabernets in our Sparkman lineup and our intention was not to make a new wine with Cabernet. But there were six barrels that sat in new wood and they all stood out to such a degree that we started bringing in colleagues, wine club members, and industry folks to taste this great wine. We thought we had something different and exciting with this wine.

I have a background as a sommelier. The restaurant guy in me said that we needed to have the quality in the bottle to sell for this at a high price. After folks kept on telling us ‘yeah this Evermore is special stuff’ we chose to give this one a higher price. Linn Scott was in charge of the 2012 Evermore Cabernet and is in charge of producing all of the wines. He did a fantastic job. At the end of the day I say whether we need a little more of something or not in the wines. We made 150 cases of this wine and have had very nice support for it. I thought somewhere along the line someone was going to call me a greedy bastard but people wanted more of the wine.

The 2012 vintage in Washington was the most average growing season that you can ask for, which means that it was perfect. If you can’t make wine in this vintage then you should think about going something else. With the picking we let it sit a bit and we believe that there are some things that you can measure and some of the things you can’t taste. PH and sugar and acid are all great markers but flavor is the only thing you taste. If the flavor is not wall there then we don’t want to pick it. That is sort of our overriding philosophy. We try to do that with all our Bordeaux varietals. We have four old blocks of Cabernet and this is sort of our firs go around with this. People tend to really enjoy the old single vineyard blocks. We source from Upland Estate which was first planted in 1971, the Bouchey Vineyard, planted in 1980 and the Klipsun Vineyard which was planted in 1984. At Sparkman we now have four different blocks which were all 30 years or older. In the future we are considering doing four different wines, all called ‘Evermore’, and so far in the barrel the wines are telling us this project might be a good idea. Each wine has their own personality. These individual wines tell the story of the place which his really cool. This Evermore idea is really compelling and it is not out of the realm of imagination that we would have four old vine Cabernets with the 2015 vintage.

WWB: I recently had the chance to run through a number of your impressive white wine releases and was impressed with your 2014 white wines, including the excellent ‘Luminere’ Chardonnay. I was very impressed with the structure in those wines, despite the heat of the vintage. Can you talk about how you were able to obtain such nice structure in those wines?

CS: The Stillwater Creek vineyard is the key to the ‘Luminere’ Chardonnay. We find that vines from Stillwater Creek produce wonderful minerality. This is not near Chablis but Chardonnay from Stillwater Creek tends to act differently than some of the hotter sites in Washington, like Cold Creek. I have to give the vineyard a lot of credit. We also do a native fermentation on that and have experimented with multiple yeasts for that wine. The flavors and profile are drawn from the yeast in the winery. It is difficult because the fermentations that we do take longer and are unpredictable but what they yield at the end of the day is what we want. The 2014 vintage I think was really a piece of cake with the winemaking. We have now been wrestling with 2015 vintage white wines and I am interested to see how this thing turns out. What happens is other things come in there with the vintage and you have to control it the best you can. I think we are going to have some really great Chardonnay in ’15, even though ’15 was less easy to work with. People have said this to us, forever, before we got into making wine -- that white wine is way harder to make than red wine. I think that is true. We have noticed that with Washington Sauvignon Blanc, as we have had to track down balance and structure to the wines. But in other, more cool, vintages, white wine is made more easily. It is also bizarre how varietals and barrels that will be in the same yeast and treatment will decide to do things differently. That keeps you humbled. You are on your toes when you work with white wines.

WWB: You make an Oregon Pinot Noir from the famous ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’.  What got you interested in making Oregon Pinot Noir?  Can you talk about some of the challenges of working with that varietal and the challenges that you faced in the 2013 vintage in Oregon?

CS: We are privileged to work with some great vineyards at Sparkman Cellars. Not everyone gets into Klipsun or Dionysus vineyards. Our friend, Rob Stewart, helped us out with getting some good Oregon Pinot Noir. We were sold some really good Oregon Pinot in 2009 and it turned out to beautiful wine. It is starting to peak right now and is exactly where you want to drink Pinot Noir. Pinot is finicky to work with. In 2010 it was a really tough vintage down there and we were unable to get any fruit from Oregon. We declined to do it and it was hard to find supply that year. We had a cold growing season in Washington and wanted to focus on the Washington fruit in 2010. 2011 was also a hard vintage in Oregon and I was able to secure a younger block, [Dijon] clone 777, and we wanted to work with that. In 2011 we cold soaked the Pinot Noir for eight days just to make it have some color in the wine. There was even some dry ice involved and we had to watch out what was going on there. The 2011 Pinot turned out to be some really nice wine, like a Beaune wine from Burgundy. The wine is something more light and elegant. As it rounds in form here we are curious what happens to this wine. In the near future we will take a harder look at that wine and will re-release the wine later. I know a lot of people did that in Oregon with the 2007 Pinots. The 2012 Pinot Noir from Oregon made itself and the alcohol was low, only 12 percent. I think that the wine might be cresting right now. My opinion is that the alcohol levels are not that important with wine. 2013 in Oregon was really a nice and easy vintage. The fruit was as fine as we have seen but the last two vintages, 2014 and 2015, have been really good as well. Temperance Hill [vineyard] is at 750 feet. It is a cooler site for Pinot and it makes more elegant and earthier wines than Ribbon Ridge in Dundee. Folks are digging it. The 2013 Pinot Noir tastes best early than any of the Pinot that we have made.

WWB: Other than Sparkman Cellars wines, what other Washington wines or wines of the word do you enjoy?

CS: I enjoy the wine in my glass! Being in the wine industry makes me kind of ruined and you can’t drink crap wine when you are ruined. We had a bottle of Grand Cru Champagne last night for our anniversary which was fantastic. We just signed with Noble wines and that is our new distributor. We have been revisiting Italian wines and have been able to try some great Brunello. We like checking out Noble Wine’s impressive portfolio and doing some research on those things. We like a lot of white wines. Erica Orr’s wines are fantastic. She makes an old vine Chenin Blanc that is just delicious. She does a great job at Baer. If it is well-made then I want to taste it and I don’t have any prejudices. I think Washington has so many great flavors in their wines. One of the things that we are trying to capitalize on, being the chairman of the Washington Wine Commission, is that we have a wide variety of high quality wines. It is not one producer or one vineyard or one varietal. Washington has a dizzying array of world class wines. Some of the wines from Kevin White are great. W.T. Vintners are great as well. It is nice to see a new wave of winemakers, trying to figure it out and some of them have already had some great success.

Cobb Wines

A Sonoma coast winery that relies on small, meticulously farmed vineyards, Cobb Wines was founded by David Cobb in 2001. But their story begins in 1989 when David Cobb began cultivating Pinot Noir vines at his small Coastlands Vineyard, perched literally right on the Sonoma coast. David was previously working as a marine ecologist and spent much of his time learning about soils and climatological charts in trying to find the perfect spot for his vineyard. He found that the Sonoma coast was the perfect spot to grow great terroir driven Pinot, which required a good amount of heat, morning fog to keep temperatures moderate, and plenty of wind to protect the grapes from rot. Cobb Wines combines the winegrowing expertise of David Cobb—one of the first big players in Pinot Noir viticulture on the far Sonoma Coast—with the winemaking talents of his son, Ross Cobb. Ross has an extensive history in wine, previously serving at some prestigious wineries in the past, including Ferrari-Carano, and Williams Selyem, where he served as viticulturist and enologist.

Ross came on with his father and became head winemaker at Cobb. He knew that he had something special with their Pinot Noir from the Coastlands vineyard. In 2001, a mere 130 cases of their wines were made. This wine was a huge hit. Cobb has diversified exponentially since then, focusing hand crafted Pinot sourced from small, terroir driven vineyards. Subsequent Cobb Pinot bottlings have received some incredibly high scores from press. I recently had the chance to sample the new Pinot releases from Cobb. Each wine had a personality of their own. The Sonoma Coast style is a bit challenging to define. The Cobb Pinot releases were feminine and compelling wines that showed grace and terroir. For those who have not had Sonoma Coast Pinot, think Sonoma Valley meets Willamette Valley, with a touch of Burgundy. Once constant theme with the Cobb wine releases was the seamless quality to the wines. These wines glide through the imbibing experience, leading to a long and smooth finish. There is a wonderful minerality to these wines as they are all long-agers and will easily cellar well for another decade. While these wines are fairly pricey ($75.00 for each), they are worth some special attention. Cobb Pinot Noirs tend to be a bit difficult to find in the Northwest as you can only get them online through a mailing list or at a rare selection of restaurants. Learn more about Cobb wines at http://cobbwines.com/store/index.html. Here are the impressive new releases from Cobb.

2013 Cobb Wines ‘Coastlands Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- First planted in 1989, the Coastlands Vineyard has some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines on the Sonoma Coast. Due to the fog in the vineyard, the yields tend to be very low from this windy, 14.5 acre plot. The 2013 Cobb 'Coastlands Vineyard' shows the softer side of California Pinot. This expressive bottling begins with aromatics of black tea, red currant, red raspberry and hints of forest floor. There are flavors of red raspberry, lavender, Mandarin orange rind and guava in this light and very Beaune-like effort. Decant this for at least two hours before enjoying. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2013 Cobb Wines ‘Rice-Spivak Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-The 2013 Cobb 'Rice-Spivak' Vineyard Pinot Noir is sourced from a 6-acre vineyard, planted on Goldridge loam and ash, and owned Russell Rice and his wife, Dr. Helene Spivak. While the location of the vineyard is more inland than the other vineyards that Cobb sources from, this vineyard still maintains a very strong maritime influence. This wine begins with aromas of rose petals, lavender, crushed pomegranate seeds and red cherry. There are flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, Meyer lemon oil, and cran-pomegranate. The silky texture makes this feminine style Pinot sing. This is a smooth wine to savor and will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2013 Cobb Wines ‘Emmaline Ann Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- David and Ross Cobb founded Cobb Wines in 2001, and craft Pinot Noir from small vineyards on the Sonoma Coast region. The Emmaline Ann Vineyard is slightly inland from the Coastlands Vineyard. Their 2013 'Emmaline Ann Vineyard' Pinot Noir is a gorgeous release that shows its feminine side. Needing more than an hour decant, this wine yields perfumed aromas of cinnamon, red cherry, red currant and cola. There are flavors of guava purée, red cherry, red raspberry and nutmeg. Lovely texture as this wine has a seamless quality. Drink 2016-2026- 93

#cobb #cobbwines #rosscobb #costlandsvineyard #sonomacoast #sonoma #pinotnoir

Matthews Winery and Tenor Wines

Since 1992, Matthews has been crafting some excellent Bordeaux style wines. Family owned and operated, Matthews relies on the winemaking talents of Aryn Morell. Morell has more than an exceptional resume, having previously worked at some of the highest end Napa wineries. In fact he has had previous stints at Joseph Phelps, Quintessa, Hartwell, Chimney Rock, Caldwell Vineyards, Vineyard 29, Chappellet, Rutherford Hill, Spring Mountain Winery, Stags Leap Winery, and Turnbull. He became head winemaker for Matthews in 2007 and in 2008 he launched Tenor Wines, a focus on ultra-premium red and white Bordeaux style wines. Morell sources his grapes from some great vineyards in Washington like Stillwater Creek, Weinbau and Sagemoor. All wines are made at his production facility in Walla Walla.

A recent visit to the Matthews/Tenor tasting room in Woodinville impressed. The wines showed the balance that Morell is known for, as the structure of his red and white wines were exceptional. Morell’s winemaking style is Bordelaise, as his wines are typically more classic, even in warmer years. His 2013 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 92 points) was highly impressive and is one of the best Washington Sauvignon Blancs that I have sampled in the past year. Despite the heat of the vintage Morell was able to obtain lovely structure alongside the dense fruit flavors. Other solid efforts included the 2012 Matthews Claret (WWB, 92 points), which is a blend of 54% Cab Sauvignon, 25% Cab Franc, 10% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 3% Malbec, & 3% Petit Verdot. This wine sings with balance and ripe fruit flavors. While it is hard to resist right now, it will cellar beautifully. Here are some of the great wines that I recently sampled at Matthews and Tenor wines. Learn more about them at http://www.matthewswinery.com/ and http://www.tenorwines.com/

2014 Matthews ‘Stillwater Creek’ Sauvignon Blanc-This wine has nice viscosity in glass and includes some Sagemoor vineyard fruit with the mainly Stillwater Creek fruit. It begins with aromas of cut grass, oak, and cantaloupe. They elected to age 30% of the wine in concrete vessels, while the rest was aged in stainless steel. There are medium weight flavors of orange zest, cantaloupe, poached pear, as the wine finishes slightly sweet. Nice combination of structure and fruit to this solid bottling. Drink 2016-2022- 90

2013 Tenor Sauvignon Blanc- Sourced from the Stillwater Creek and Lawrence vineyards, the wine was aged for 7 months in 100% new French oak, without fining or filtration. This dense white wine begins with aromas of whipping cream, oak, cut grass and ripe Bartlett pear. There are flavors of Fuji apple, honeydew melon and oak with a long finish. Very impressive, with a rich mouthfeel. Drink 2016-2024- 92

2013 Matthews ‘Blackboard’ Red Wine-  The fruit from this wine was sourced from a host of vineyards including Hedges, Bel'Villa, Red Mountain, Canyons, Stillwater Creek, Weinbau, Bacchus, Dionysus, Pepperbridge, XL, and Blue Mountain vineyards.  It was aged in 20% new French oak, 80% once and twice used French oak before bottling in March 2015. This red blend begins with aromas of dill, red bell pepper, anise and spicebox. Three are medium weight flavors of red bell pepper, anise, red cherry and nutmeg. Lovely structure to this solid bottling, as I can see this thing cellaring well. Drink 2016-2024- 90

2012 Matthews ‘Columbia Valley’ Claret-The wine was aged 18 months in 40% new French and 60% once used French oak before bottling in May 2014. It is a complex blend of 54% Cab Sauvignon, 25% Cab Franc, 10% Merlot, 5% Syrah, 3% Malbec, & 3% Petit Verdot. You can see that this has had some time in the bottle to soften. This wine opens with aromas of dill, blackberry pie, and blueberry compote. There are deep flavors of blackberry pie, blueberry, black plum, and graphite. Lovely structure, as this has racy acidity. Give this thing a one hour decant before opening right now. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2012 Tenor 2:2- Grapes were sourced from the Hedges Estate, Red Mountain Vineyard, and Stillwater Creek vineyard. This is their right bank blend, as it is comprised of Merlot, Cab Franc and a touch of Cabernet. It was aged 18 months in 88% new French oak prior to bottling. This wine begins with perfumed aromas of blackberry preserves, anise, and cedar with a touch of black truffle oil. There are flavors of anise, cassis, blackberry jam, black plum and cloves with Turkish coffee alongside mild to moderate tannins. This wine will cellar well but it is hard to resist right now. Drink 2016-2027- 93

2011 Tenor 2:2- This Merlot blend was sourced from the Stillwater Creek, Red Mountain, Weinbau and Bel'villa vineyards. The wine begins with herbaceous aromas of dried sage, red bell pepper and blackberry jam. This leads to flavors of anise, cassis, blackberry and medium weight. Lovely structure but not quite the weight or complexity of the 2012. This will cellar gracefully. Drink 2016-2025- 91

2012 Tenor 1:1- This wine is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot. It was aged 20 months in 100% new French oak and was sourced from Hedges Estate, Red Mountain, and Stillwater Creek vineyards. There are complex aromatics of black cherry black plum oak and blackberry cobbler. This leads to flavors of blackberry, anise, coffee grounds and graphite alongside moderate tannins. This will have a very long life in the cellar but if you want to consume it immediately, give this gorgeous wine at least an hour decant. Drink 2018-2029- 92

2010 Tenor 1:1- The Cabernet wine was sourced from the Stillwater Creek vineyard and the Lawrence vineyard.  It was aged 16 months in new French oak prior to bottling. This wine starts with a bouquet of dill, red cherry, red raspberry, lavender and cassis. Slightly on the herbaceous side, but in a good way. This leads to flavors of mocha, black cherry, black olive and pipe tobacco alongside moderate tannins. Drink 2016-2028- 92

 2012 Tenor Syrah- This dark hued wine begins with dense aromas of smoked meats leather and wet rock. There are medium to heavy weight flavors of sagebrush, anise, smoked meats and tar alongside mocha and blackberry jam. Delicious and age-worthy Syrah that will cellar very well. Drink 2016-2025- 92

#matthewswinery #matthews #tenor #tenorwines

Goose Ridge

If you are driving along I-82 north of Tri-Cities, look out on your right hand side. Eventually you will see a massive cluster of vineyards (http://www.washingtonwine.org/wineries/goose-ridge-estate-vineyard-and-winery/) that dominate the horizon. This is the remote but absolutely gorgeous backdrop for Goose Ridge Vineyards. While they were initially based outside of Tri-Cities at their production facility, they set up a tasting room in Woodinville a few years back. Started by the Monson family, Goose Ridge was started in 1998 under the direction of Dr. Walter Clore, the Father of the Washington Wine Industry. The 1,900 acre vineyard is planted on a south-facing slope in Washington's Columbia Valley appellation adjacent to Red Mountain. Goose Ridge focuses on creating value priced Bordeaux and Rhone varietal wines. Their new releases were highly impressive.

While I would recommend that you visit their tasting room at their estate, located just outside of Tri-Cities, those based in the Seattle area can take advantage of their Woodinville tasting room. It had been a year since I had run through their lineup of wines and I was very impressed at their current offerings. Most of these wines are priced under 30 dollars. Head winemaker Andrew Wilson has crafted some fantastic new releases. For many years I have been a fan of their Chardonnay. Their new release, the 2013, was no exception (WWB, 91 points) and offered rich fruit flavors of golden delicious apple and bananas foster. This wine over-performs for the price. Many of their red wines have been kept back, particularly those from cooler vintages of 2010 and 2011. Their 2010 ‘Vireo’ was an exceptional value (WWB, 92 points) which showed rich and dense fruit flavors that were surprising considering the coolness of the vintage. This wine is drinking in its sweet spot. You can really see the skill of the winemaker, as Andrew Wilson got the most out of these cooler and more challenging vintages. Learn more about Goose Ridge Vineyards online at http://www.gooseridge.com/Wines/Reserve. You can find these wines at many area grocery stores like QFC and Met Market, as well as Northwest wine shops. Here are my reviews of the great new releasesfrom Goose Ridge:

2014 Goose Ridge Sauvignon Blanc- This wine begins with aromas of cut grass, unripe pear and a dash of Jalapeno pepper. Flavors of red delicious apple, poached pear and lychee with a nice cream finish. Finishes clean. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2014 Goose Ridge Vineyards 'GRV'- The ‘GRV’ is an enticing blend of 50% Viognier, 27% Grenache Blanc and 23% Rousanne . The wine begins with medium weight aromas of starfruit, gala apple, honeydew melon and poached pear. This leads to flavors of red delicious apple, lemongrass, green papaya with a vanilla cream finish. Very solid. Drink 2016-2021- 90

2013 Goose Ridge Chardonnay- The Chardonnay was aged 9 months in 100% French oak (57% new). This wine begins with aromas of brioche toast, honey, golden delicious apple and toasted oak. There are flavors of golden delicious apple, bananas foster and nice extraction. The cream finish lingers. Not for the weary. Drink 2016-2022- 91

2011 Goose Ridge Merlot- The wine was aged 22 months in 70% French, 20% American and 10% European oak barrels(60% new) before bottling. This cold vintage Merlot begins with aromas of tangerine rind, red cherry, red raspberry and dill.  There are medium weight flavors of red cherry, boysenberry and sagebrush. Drink 2016-2024- 89

2010 Goose Ridge Cabernet- The Cabernet was aged 22 months in 55% French, 40% American, 5% European oak barrels (60% new) prior to being bottled. This wine begins with aromas of stewed prune, red cherry, dill and anise. This leads to flavors of cassis, anise and mocha with a slight graphite edge. Very polished. Drink 2016-2024- 91

2010 Goose Ridge ‘Vireo’- The colder vintage wine is a blend of  40% Syrah, 35% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a heavy oak influence as they have aged this 25 months in 76% French, 14% American and 10% European oak. Head winemaker Andrew Wilson has done exceptionally well here. It begins with an absolutely gorgeous perfumed nose with rose petals, anise, creme de cassis and red bell pepper. Medium to heavy weight flavors of anise, creme de cassis, blackberry preserves and mocha coat the palate, alongside mild tannins. Simply delicious right now. Drink 2016-2024- 92

2010 Goose Ridge 'Sol Duc'- This wine begins with aromas of red bell pepper, cedar and red cherry. This leads to flavors of red cherry, red raspberry and vanilla. This wine has a polished texture and finishes smooth. Drink 2016-2025- 91

2011 Goose Ridge 'Sol Duc'- This wine sits in the glass as aromatically shut down and needing at least a one hour decant before serving. The wine has aromas of cedar, red bell pepper and sage in this herbaceous wine. There are flavors of red cherry, anise and spicebox. Lovely texture to this polished effort. Drink 2016-2025- 91

 2014 Goose Ridge Riesling Ice Wine- Weighing in at 23.3% residual sugar the wine begins with aromas of vanilla creme brûlée, bananas foster and apricot preserves. This leads to flavors reminiscent of creme brûlée, French vanilla truffle, apricot preserves and a lingering finish. Gorgeous wine here that has some aging potential. Drink 2016-2025- 93

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