Interview with Nicolette Anctil, Sommelier at Husk Nashville

Boasting a stunning wine selection which is arranged by soil type, Husk Nashville is an absolutely fantastic place to sample a broad spectrum of wines of the world and consume probably the best fried chicken I’ve had in my life. While I was in Nashville I had the chance to catch up with sommelier Nicolette Anctil, who guided me through some awesome blind tastings. Nicolette talked about her background in wine, as well as some of her favorite current bottlings. I think you will really enjoy hearing about her journey in wine. Here is my interview with Nicolette Anctil, sommelier at Husk Nashville.

WWB: How did you decide to become a sommelier?

NA: I’d say, I got the wine bug fairly organically, in my early 20s I left the turn and burn life of a line cook, and moved front of house, as a server assistant or busser. Progressing my way through the ranks, I found myself starting to become very interested in wine. The sommeliers I worked with took me under their wing, I was gifted with tasting very often with Masters, along with traveling to NYC and Washington D.C. almost every week. From that experience I’ve come to create my own style for myself of what a sommelier means.

WWB: You have a wide range of somm experiences. What have your previous somm positions brought to working at Husk Nashville?

NA: I’ve realized that I’m super emotional with wine, the intimacy of wine and the time it took for us to be able to taste the juice is all the importance of my job. Previous positions have taught me that, the way to be success is to be authentic in what you do. I’ve tried to conform to the “somm” life, it wasn’t for me. Every bottle has a story, I have no interest in dissecting the wine so much, were the story then becomes an afterthought. Wine has to be the romance, and for me; I’ve experienced wine in restaurants under a restauranteur all the way to experiencing wine under a 22 person-seat restaurant. I now have the pleasure to take all those experiences, and create a list that’s classic, yet unique, and pushes our guests to trust what we are doing at Husk Nashville.

WWB: Can you talk about your training for your level 2 (certified) somm exam?

NA: I’ve had the privilege of tasting and learning under Advanced/Master Sommelier at a very early state of my training. I quickly pushed through my 1st & 2nd levels with the Court of Master Sommelier, I became very interested in more of the vinicultural side of wine. From their I took my CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine), and then I took a huge break. I hit this point of, contemplating why? Why was I doing this, for other people or for myself. So, I took about a 2-year break from wine. Coming to Nashville, showed me that wine is what you want from it. For me, seeing a guest enjoying a wine that they never in a million years would buy, then my job is done, and no test can fill that void for me.

WWB: Husk has a very strong wines by the glass collection. Can you talk about how this wide range of wines is chosen and how the wines have been arranged by soil type?

NA: With the wines by the glass, I wanted to push varietals that you normally wouldn’t drink, but had somewhat similar characteristics of wines that your familiar with. For example, instead of your classic California Chardonnay, we have Garganega from Soave, Italy. It’s my favorite wine to pour people, they always have the best reaction. The soils types were set into place to show that, not only does our food come from farmers who have families and stories, so does our wine. It shows that the wines we are pour, have a place, just like our food.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wine regions of the world and their producers?

NA: Bubbles, always tons of bubbles. Currently drinking this awesome little wine from an importer called Savio Soares based out of Brooklyn, NY. The wine is Latitude 50 N, it’s a unique sparkling rose of Portugeiser, Dornfelder, and Pinot Noir from Rheingau, Germany. Its wicked delicious, and super affordable.

Columbia Crest

A winery that needs no introduction, Columbia Crest remains one of the most popular wineries in the United States. There is good reason behind this, as I have had sampled hundreds of great bottles from this winery over the past ten years plus years. I can say that consistently the winemaking has been excellent, especially considering the price of these wines. There is a reason why these wines sell so well – because the winemaking is excellent, the fruit is good and the attention to detail is clearly there. If you are out in the Columbia Valley, be sure to check out their tasting room, outside of Patterson, Washington. It is literally in the middle of nowhere but it is an absolutely gorgeous country setting that provides a nice respite from the city.

I had the chance to interview Columbia Crest superstar winemaker Juan Munoz Oca a few weeks back. His new release wines were absolutely gorgeous, none more so than their impressive 2013 ‘Walter Clore Reserve' (WWB, 93), which over-delivers at its price point and offers gobs of rich dark fruit and a silky texture.  Another new release red wine that impressed for the price is the 2014 Columbia Crest ‘Gold Label’ (WWB, 90) that continues to be one of the great values in wine. It is hard to find the density and fruit weight in a red wine at this price. Consistently one of the best bargains in Washington wine, their 2014 Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Cabernet (WWB, 90) shows nice dark fruit flavors and remains one of the best value Cabernet wines in the United States today. Look for these wines at Costco as well as most Northwest supermarkets. Learn more about Columbia Crest wines at columbiacrest.com Here are the great new value release wines by Columbia Crest.

2014 Columbia Crest 'Grand Estates Unoaked' Chardonnay- This bright colored wine opens with aromatics of peach pit, vanilla custard and hints of brioche. There are rich flavors of banana, pineapple, white peach and creme brulee. With a rich texture and polished mouthfeel, this is just an awesome value Chardonnay. Drink 2016-2021- 90

2014 Columbia Crest 'Crowdsourced' Cabernet-Columbia Crest has created this wine through the ideas articulated by their online community, as the online members consistently weigh in regarding the winemaking of this Cabernet. This inaugural vintage is a huge success. The 2014 'Crowdsourced' Cabernet by Columbia Crest is an excellent bottling, sourced from the Horse Heaven Hills, which sat 16 months in 30% new oak barrels prior to bottling. Coming from a great vintage for Cabernet, the wine is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Merlot. This wine opens with aromas of black tea, coffee grounds and black cherry with black olive accents. The palate has a nice mineral streak, with rich flavors of black olive, black cherry, anise and coffee grounds. This Cabernet shows nice poise from this hot vintage. Drink 2016-2021- 90

2014 Columbia Crest 'Grand Estates Gold' Red Wine- The 2014 'Grand Estates Gold' is a compellingblend of 46% Cabernet Franc, 36% Syrah, 17% Malbec, and 1% Other. The red blend comes out of the bottle an inky, glass staining dark purple. There are dense aromas of boysenberry, wet gravel, and violet on the nose.  The wine spent 14 months in 58% new oak, and the mild coconut and vanilla flavors enhance rather than overwhelm this wine.  The finish offers the minerality from the Syrah and the herbaceousness from the Cabernet Franc.  This is a surprisingly complex wine and a fantastic value buy. Drink 2016-2021- 90 (S.L.)

2014 Columbia Crest 'H3' Merlot- This well-made Merlot bottling begins with aromatics of tasted herbs and boysenberry on the nose. This Merlot offers a surprisingly complex but harmonious palate with notes of blackberry, raspberry, bramble, dill, and vanilla. The wine finishes with velvety tannins and a little bit of cocoa powder.  Drink now, but like previous H3 Merlots, it will cellar well in the short-term .Drink 2016-2021-  89 (S.L.)

2014 Columbia Crest 'H3' Cabernet-Columbia Crest has gained a sterling reputation for outstanding values out of Washington State, and this wine is no exception. This excellent Cabernet is blended with 16% Merlot. Immediately you’ll notice the aroma of cherries and blackberries bursting out of the glass. The wine continues to exude more ripe berries and cherry pie on the palate with the subtle addition of leather and even a hint of tobacco. The Cabernet finishes with a moderate tannic structure and a smooth, ripe fruit ending with a slight mineral streak in the background. This Cabernet would pair beautifully with most red meats, but the Cabernet also has potential to pair nicely with chocolate focused desserts. While the blend of the Columbia Crest 'H3' Cabernet changes from year to year (typically it’s well over 90% Cabernet), the winemaking has resulted in a remarkably consistent wine and if you’ve enjoyed H3 Cabernet in past years, you’re sure to enjoy the 2014 as well. Drink 2016-2022- 90 (S.L)

2013 Columbia Crest ‘Walter Clore Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2013 Columbia Crest 'Walter Clore Reserve' Red Wine is an exceedingly good wine from this estate and is up there with the best 'Walter Clore' wines that I have sampled in the past decade. The wine is a silky blend of 64% Merlot, 34% Cabernet with the remainder Cab Franc and Malbec. This impressive red blend begins with baking spices, prune, black cherry and black olive on the nose. The palate has dense flavors of blackberry pie, black cherry, black olive and mocha. Dense, chewy and balanced, this is gorgeous right now and shows nice viscosity on the mid-palate. There is a seamless quality to this wine that reminds me of the rich, yet elegant 2004 'Walter Clore' bottling. Drink 2016-2026- 93

Perez Pascuas

I rarely have the opportunity to make the jaunt to Spain on the blog but I want to share the exceptional new release wines from Hnos. Perez Pascuas. This Ribera del Duero property has produced an exceedingly strong lineup of Tempranillo based wines. For those unfamiliar with the wines from this region, the reds typically have a bit of Cabernet blended in, and are primarily made with Tempranillo. This gives the wine a denser, exotic edge. Amazingly, winemaking in this region traces back to more than 2,000 years ago. This small growing region is not far from Rioja and is located north of Madrid (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ribera_del_Duero#/media/File:DO_Ribera_del_Duero_location.svg)

Great looking gnarled vines at Vina Pedrosa.

Sampling their ‘Reserva’ and ‘Gran Reserva’ bottlings, I was enamored by the 2011 ‘Reserva’ (WWB, 93) wine which impress for the price. Their ‘Gran Reserva’ bottlings (WWB, 93) both showed incredible richness and tension. This was an intriguing comparison as the 2009 showed a darker fruit and aromatic profile, while the 2010 showed its feminine side with red fruit and orange rind accents. Learn more about these tremendous wines at http://en.perezpascuas.com/ Here are the awesome release wine from Hnos. Perez Pascuas

2013 Hnos. Perez Pascuas 'Crianza'- This wine begins with aromatics of dill, coffee grounds, and roasted figs. There are flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, cranberry, sage and Mandarin orange rind. The savory elements are lovely. Give this at least a one hour decant before enjoying. Drink 2016-2025- 90

2012 Hnos. Perez Pascuas 'La Navilla Reserva'- This excellent wine was aged 20 months in French oak barrels. A dark hue to this lovely Reserva. The wine starts with aromatics of sage, cigar box, anise, black cherry and cranberry. There are flavors reminiscent of sage, anise, cassis, with cran-cherry. There is lovely weight and viscosity to this Reserva. Give this at least an hour decant before enjoying. Drink 2016-2028- 92

2012 Hnos. Perez Pascuas Vina Pedrosa 'Reserva' Ribera del Duero- This balanced bottling begins with aromas reminiscent of black cherry, white pepper, and red currant. There are flavors of red cherry, lavender, red currant and wild blackberry with strong suggestions of Mandarin orange rind. Balanced and mineral driven wine, with a long finish. This can benefit from another year of bottle age for the fruit to further integrate. Drink 2017-2030- 92

2011 Hnos. Perez Pascuas Vina Pedrosa 'Reserva' Ribera del Duero- The 2011 Vina Pedrosa 'Reserva' is a gorgeous effort this estate. This expressive red wine is a blend of 90% Tempranillo with 10% Cabernet and was aged 25 months in French and American oak prior to bottling. Possessing a slightly darker aromatic profile than the 2012 Vina Pedrosa Reserva, this wine starts with aromas of sandalwood, roasted figs, nutmeg, and boysenberry with suggestions of bacon fat. There are flavors of red currant, cassis, Mandarin orange rind and tar. Lovely balance and weight with a lingering berry and citrus driven finish. This will have an exceedingly long life, despite being approachable right now.   Drink 2016-2030- 93

2010 Hnos. Perez Pascuas Vina Pedrosa 'Gran Reserva' Ribera del Duero- This dense wine begins with aromas of sandalwood, Mandarin orange peel, black olive and black cherry. Lovely depth and needing more than an hour decant to reveal flavors of wild blackberry cobbler, black cherry, Pink grapefruit rind and anise. Incredible depth and richness. This balanced wine will be a long ager. Give this at least another year before enjoying. Drink 2017-2033- 93

2009 Hnos. Perez Pascuas Vina Pedrosa 'Gran Reserva' Ribera del Duero- This wine begins with aromas of cedar, milk chocolate, black cherry and sagebrush. There are deep flavors of coffee grounds, black cherry, anise, cassis, Mandarin orange rind and suggestions of nutmeg. Gorgeous range of flavors, having a slightly darker fruit profile than the 2009. Drink 2016-2033- 93

 

Ridge Vineyards

I knew the view was great, but this time I literally had my breath taken away on a sunny September morning. Needless to say, the wines were even more spectacular than the views. If you are in Sonoma, stopping by the Lytton Springs tasting room in the gorgeous Dry Creek Valley is a must. One of the truly iconic California wineries, Ridge Vineyards was first founded in 1962.

The stunning new lineup of Ridge wines impresses. Look for their 2014 Chardonnay (WWB, 93) a wine that impresses for the price and shows incredible range and complexity. Also decadent was their 2012 ‘Mill’ Zinfandel (WWB, 94) which contains 25% Petite Sirah and is hedonistic and lovely. Finally, their new release 2013 ‘Monte Bello’ (WWB, 95), the wine that put Ridge on the map, should not be touched for at least a couple of years, but is a slumbering heavyhitter of a wine that shows gobs of fruit and massive structure. Tightly would, the 2013 ‘Monte Bello’ is one for the cellar. Learn more about this historic winery at ridgewine.com Here are the amazing new release wines from Ridge Vineyards.

2014 Ridge Chardonnay- This impressive wine begins with aromatics of poached pear, dill, heavy whipping cream and a touch of crème brulee. There are dense flavors of Pazzaz apple, vanilla cream and crème brulee that sit alongside brisk minerality. This is just an awesome value at this price point. Drink 2016-2023- 93

2012 Ridge ‘Buchignani Ranch’ Zinfandel- This wine begins with aromatics of red cherry, dill, sage, and hints of sassafras. This leads to flavors of mint, red cherry, red raspberry and lithe minerality. This shows a wonderful purity of fruit, as this poised Zin is done in the Bordelaise style. Drink 2016-2025- 93

2012 Ridge ‘Mill’ Zinfandel- This excellent Zin has 25% Petite Sirah blended in. The wine has lovely weight and texture, as the wine glides through the mid-palate with flavors of red cherry, sagebrush, wild blackberry and black plum. Like the other Ridge Zins the structure of this wine is stunning. There is some wonderful aging potential with this expressive Zinfandel. Drink 2016-2025- 94

2014 Ridge ‘Ponzo’ Zinfandel- This excellent wine begins with aromatics of red cherry, dill, sage, and red raspberry, showing some nice feminine characteristics. The wine has flavors of red cherry, raspberry, pomegranate seed and suggestions of wild blackberry jam. Focused, with a striking mineral streak, this wine will age gracefully into the next decade. Drink 2016-2024- 93

2014 Ridge ‘Pagnani Ranch’ Zinfandel- This Zinfandel is sourced from a 30 acre vineyard which was planted in 1900. This aged site has become one of the state’s premier sites for old vine Zin. The wine begins with aromatics of prune, red cherry and spicebox with black tea. There are dense flavors of red cherry, dill, sage and black tea. Herbaceous and complex, this will cellar beautifully for ten years. Drink 2016-2025- 92

2014 Ridge ‘Geyserville’ Red Wine- This awesome blend of 60% Zinfandel, 24% Carignane, 12% Petit Sirah and 4% Mataro is one of a kind. The wine has dense aromatics of black cherry, black tea, dill, red raspberry, blackberry pie and milk chocolate. There are bold flavors of black cherry, violets, crème de cassis and milk chocolate. Beautifully textured and absolutely irresistible right now, this wine shows some serious weight and grip on the mid-palate. Drink 2016-2028- 93

2014 Ridge ‘Lytton Springs’ Zinfandel- This is sourced from their Sonoma property that overlooks the Dry Creek Valley. The wine begins with aromatics of prune, black plum, red cherry with a spicy, nutmeg component at the back end. There are rich flavors of black tea, sage, black cherry, eucalyptus and hints of cranberry that sit alongside some gritty tannins. This needs another year to soften but shows some wonderful potential at this juncture. Drink 2017-2028- 93

2013 Ridge ‘Estate’ Cabernet – One of the fantastic bottlings that I have encountered over the years, this wine sources from some Monte Bello fruit that was not chosen in their higher end bottling. The resultant wine begins with aromas of black tea, anise, blackberry cobbler, red cherry, mint and sagebrush accents. There are rich flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, mint, mocha and hints of black tea. Delicious and light on its feet, this is a long-ager. Drink 2017-2030- 93

2013 Ridge ‘Monte Bello’ Cabernet- A hedonistic monster that somehow shows wonderful restraint, the 2013 ‘Monte Bello’ Cabernet confirms why it commands a cult following. The wine begins with dense aromas of black tea, anise, crème de cassis and coffee grounds. There are rich flavors of mocha, dill, anise, casssi and hints of milk chocolate. Polished, lithe and moderately tannic right now, this is best enjoyed in a few years. This is literally a slumbering giant. Drink 2018-2035- 95

Willamette Valley Photos

Friends, a few weeks back I had the opportunity to visit some properties in the Willamette Valley, including Angela Estate, Archery Summit, Argyle, Big Table Farm, Domaine Serene, Elk Cove, The Eyrie Vineyards., Ken Wright and Le Cadeau. I wanted to share the beautiful photos from my visit, taken by my friend and colleague, Dr. Renee Low. I hope you enjoy! Check them out on the Facebook page at:

https://www.facebook.com/washingtonwineblog/

Interview with Paul Gregutt, Director of Winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars and Oregon and Canada Wine Reviewer for Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Renowned Pacific Northwest wine reviewer, Paul Gregutt, has a storied career reviewing wines. Paul began writing about lifestyle topics and then was eventually drawn to wine writing and the stories behind the wine. He has been writing about wine from the Pacific Northwest for 30 years, has published one of the big Washington wine texts, entitled Washington Wines and Wineries and has served as a contributing author to both the World Atlas of Wine and the Oxford Companion to Wine. Paul currently reviews wines from Oregon and Canada for Wine Enthusiast magazine and serves as director of winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars. I had the chance to review his two 2014 Chenin Blanc releases from Waitsburg Cellars and was highly impressed as these wines both possessed a silky mouthfeel and rich tree fruit flavors. I recently had the chance to chat with Paul about his career, as well as how he became interested in winemaking. I think you are going to really enjoy his wine journey. Here is my interview with Paul Gregutt, Director of Winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars and Oregon and Canada Wine Reviewer for Wine Enthusiast Magazine

WWB: How did you first gain interest in reviewing wines?-

PG: This goes back many years but I have been a working journalist all my life. I was working as a journalist for many years before I ever wrote about wine. I think that has been an advantage for me. That advantage helped me because the writing part of it was covered. I had also written about lifestyle topics principally starting with theater, popular music and media. That naturally led to a personal interest in wine. At a certain point I thought that the best way to learn about anything is to do it. In order to learn about wine I would start writing about it. That gave me access to the wine industry. Initially I was not going to review wine and wasn’t going to be a critic but I would write about wine from the point of view of the people and the business. I didn’t review wines for a long time. Initially I just wanted to get some things about wine in print and get some credentials as a wine journalist. I started wine writing 30 years ago, while I was working full-time for a company doing media work in all kinds of industries. I also had my own business doing early work in the digital realm 20 years ago. All through this time I was writing about wine.

I started with a weekly wine column in 1985 in the Seattle Weekly and I was in print on a weekly basis in Seattle media for almost 25 years. I also started freelancing through bigger clients as I met an editor for Wine Enthusiast and began writing for them in 1998. Shortly after that they started doing wine reviews and scores in house. Shortly after I signed up I was given the plum assignment which was writing about wines from the Pacific Northwest region, using the 100 point scoring system. That is when I had started scoring wines. I had reviewed wines and recommended wines long before but not scoring before that.

WWB: What was it like starting at Wine Enthusiast Magazine?-

PG: It was the summer of 1999 that things took off. I had been in the industry since 1985 and had even written for Wine Spectator for a couple of years. I had also written a couple of books about northwest wines that came out in the ‘90s. I was not new to wine writing at the time and it was a good assignment and they gave me a lot of opportunities right off the bat. It was a good connection. I have been an advocate for northwest wines and wineries since the mid-80s. My focus was Washington and Oregon. I was seeing the industry getting some traction. At the early going at Wine Enthusiast and with other wine publications I felt it was important to have a knowledge of the wines of the world. Consumers then and now walk into the wine shop and they are looking at values all around the world. They typically don’t go straight to the Washington or Oregon shelf. Consumers are going to look around and I always felt like I was rooting for the home town for wines and wineries. I thought Northwest wines had a lot of potential but they also had to compete.

I was traveling a lot and going on press trips all around the world. I was also attending all the major tastings in Seattle from the distributors and importers. I did that for many years so I felt that what I brought to it was an understanding of who the industry was competing with. I never really left that behind. In the early going with Wine Enthusiast I was reviewing Champagne, and even Zinfandel from California. I was doing a wide variety of things until they settled into specific writers being assigned specific regions. I have covered Northwest wines for Wine Enthusiast but as long as I was living in Seattle (up until five years ago) I was attending a wide range of wine tastings and keeping an eye on the global wine market.

WWB: How did you become interested in winemaking?-

PG: I never wanted to make wine and I always said that I have way too much respect for those who do it and do it well. I don’t have that winemaking skill set, and I have a different skill set. I am not the winemaker at Waitsburg Cellars, I am the director of winemaking. I work with very knowledgeable and skilled people who work on the winemaking side. What I am good at is tasting and blending wine as well as marketing wine and understanding the global landscape of wine and how specific wines fit into it. The Waitsburg Cellars project started because the CEO of Precept and the vice president of marketing came to me and said ‘we would like to do a project with you and are you interested?’ I considered their offer and thought to myself ‘Well, I have never had this as a goal but this is an opportunity to learn and see the industry from a different side.’ This is also an opportunity to showcase hidden strengths of Washington viticulture’ and I told them I was interested.

I told them that I wanted to work with Chenin Blanc in particular. I had always had a great love for Loire Valley Chenin Blancs. One of the first wines I really enjoyed was the first vintage of Chenin Blanc from Hogue, a 1982 wine. This was probably in 1984 or ’85 when I first tried this wine and I can still taste that excellent wine. As you know, Chenin Blanc never really caught on in this country other than being in a jug wine component or a wine to release in the spring to make a few bucks and to satisfy that segment of the market that likes sweet and fruity wines. Having traveled through the Loire and tasted many fine examples I knew that the grape was capable of much more. Jancis Robinson named Chenin Blanc as one of the great varietals of the world. The other motivation is you see Chenin Blanc ripped out of the ground and not replanted but my feeling is that the wine has to be made from old vines. We were just getting to the point where there were some old vines and I only saw one winery in Washington State that was doing justice to the grape. L’Ecole was making some great Chenin which was 100% Chenin Blanc that was off dry back then and it was very good, only costing about 14 bucks a bottle. Other than that wine I wasn’t seeing very many good Washington state bottlings. I wanted to do Chenin Blanc from old vines and do two different styles. That is how the project formulated in my head. I would learn a lot about winemaking by working with people who are winemakers and also I would be able to elevate the reputation of Chenin Blanc.

WWB: Can you talk about the two different styles of Chenin Blanc that you create?-

PG: The 2014 wines are looking really good right now. I am also drinking the 2012 wines which are sensational, as these wines improve with age. One wine, called Cheninières, is modeled on Savennières. It is quite dry to emphasize the aromatics. The other style is called Chevray. It’s modeled on Vouvray and is riper, not necessarily off-dry, but it has more fruit and a deeper ripeness style, having a bit more residual sugar than the first wine. This style does have some barrel aging and I wanted the wines to be differentiated so if you taste them they really taste like two different wines. Even if they were from the same vineyard, and in the first few years they were from the same vineyard, picked from the same day, they still tasted completely differently.

A lot of credit from the initial vintages of our Chenin Blanc goes to Ron Bunnell who was making the wines and helped carry out my ideas. Subsequently it is Jon Zimmermann who is now making our Chenin Blanc wines. We recently have added another vineyard to the mix but still are staying with old vines for our wines. At Waitsburg Cellars we have added a few different wines as well, the Boushey Vineyard Rhone style ‘Three’ white wine is one, and this fall we are going to release a Cabernet Franc from a mix of Precept vineyards, principally Alder Ridge.

WWB: As the Oregon wine reviewer for Wine Enthusiast Magazine, you have had the chance to review many 2014 Oregon Pinot Noirs. Many producers are excited about this vintage. I was wondering what are your initial thoughts on the new 2014 vintage in Oregon?-

PG: I think that reviewing vintages is not that helpful and I know that the magazines do it. Especially in Oregon I don’t think that the vintage reviews help because you can have vineyards that are side by side, and they harvest at different times. The grapes have different aspects. They are using different clones. Some pick before, during or after the rains. You get completely different results. Who can say that 2013 was a bad vintage and 2014 was better?. I have had some marvelous wines from 2013 and some OK wines from ’12 and ’14 that are delicious but not as good. I don’t have a preference in the vintages because in Oregon every vintage produces some spectacular wines. There are some winemakers who excel every single year. And there are some who even in the best of years, make an OK wine.

WWB: When you are not busy with winemaking at Waitsburg Cellars or reviewing Oregon wines, what wines of the world do you most enjoy?-

PG: I am still drinking a lot of Washington wines and Oregon wines. I will pull out older vintages to see how they are doing. Apart from that, I still enjoy California Zinfandel. I love Italian wines and have an extensive cellar of Chianti Classico Riserva, one of my favorite wines in the world. It ages beautifully. For the white wines I will go to Champagne or to Cremant de Bourgogne or another French Sparkling Wine. I love the Loire Valley white wines, particularly Sancerre. I have never jumped into trying to create a Sancerre style wine with Waitsburg Cellars but I wouldn’t rule it out. I love a good, crisp white wine, like Muscadet or Albarino or something from the northeast of Italy.

Interview with Ryan Crane, Head Winemaker and Owner of Kerloo Cellars

Ryan Crane is the hardworking mastermind behind Kerloo Cellars. His super impressive new releases showcased some of the fantastic vineyards in Washington. Ryan has trained under some big names in Walla Walla wine, including being a cellar rat under Maria Forgeron of Forgeron Cellars and moving on as assistant winemaker under Justin Wylie of Va Piano fame. Kerloo’s first release was 2009. Since that time Kerloo Cellars has been a remarkable success. Kerloo has two tasting room locations, one located in SoDo in Seattle and another in Walla Walla. Ryan is an incredibly busy guy and has been working on expanding his production because he continually sells out of his wines. That fact that these wines sell out quickly tells you about the quality of the winemaking. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Ryan and talk wine. He talked about his successes and his training in the industry. Here is my new interview with Ryan Crane, head winemaker and owner of Kerloo Cellars

WWB: I was very impressed with your 2013 Upland Vineyard Grenache. Can you explain some of the winemaking behind the Grenache and why this was such a successful release?-

RC: I like the fruit from the Upland vineyard. I have been playing with that vineyard for a few years. The vineyard comes from the Sunnyside AVA and Todd Newhouse grows at Upland Vineyard. Todd is really good at what he does and I am excited with his work and the Grenache from Upland. Grenache is a weird varietal and it is very difficult to work with. Grenache doesn’t like heat but it needs it.  Grenache tends to set pretty heavy and it is a very compact and big cluster of grapes. What we do is shoulder thin it, so we cut the shoulders of the cluster off to balance tonnage in the vineyard. It is a tough varietal to work with because it tends to have sporadic ripeness per cluster. Grenache has a late bud break so you have to worry about freeze with the grapes. You also have to worry about sunburn and the cooler nights we get those cool dips and then moisture and that can be a bad situation. Some Grenache sites can get botrytis due to how moisture impacts it, so you have to be careful with vineyard management when working with Grenache.

Grenache in Washington State can change from 23.5 brix to 26.5 brix in a week. If you have too high a brix you lose the structure and the wine becomes too heavy and lacking acidity. That is not our style of wine that we want to make, as we want our wines to have finesse. I really focus hard on Grenache in the vineyard as I try to use a ton of vineyard management with that varietal. I pick based on the flavors that I get when tasting the varietal. We tend to pick that around 25 brix or 25.5 brix and then we use dry ice that sits with it all the way back to the production facility to keep it cold. In the past few years we have been dividing the fermenters and doing some whole cluster fermentation. Then with others I will do like 50% whole cluster fermentation and then some berry ferment. This gives us a variety of things to examine when they are in barrel. We try to ferment Grenache as cool as possible so our Grenache doesn’t get above 70 degrees. That lets me manage phenolics in the wine but also lets me manage a prettier style of Grenache. The last few years we have been doing some cold soaks with the varietal and dry ice it for a while. We have also been working with a bit more color with that wine by using the cold soak technique.

WWB: I was very impressed with the polished texture of your wines. Can you talk about how you are able to obtain that texture?

RC: I think it is both by using the cool ferment and the proper pick time. Those things make a big difference. It is also probably due to being gentle during the pressing of the wine. We stir on lees which also helps with improving the overall mouthfeel and gives us the velvety feel that we try to obtain with Grenache. You can taste that difference in the glass, the small details can lead to the right mouthfeel. We are really happy with our 2013 Upland Vineyard Grenache because it has the structure, the fruit and the mouthfeel that we were ideally hoping to achieve.

WWB: I was impressed with how you have utilized Tempranillo in making a Washington style of Tempranillo. Can you talk about your bottling and the Washington style of Tempranillo?-

RC: There is a distinct, Washington style of Tempranillo that I am looking for. I began making my wines in ’07 with just Syrah because at the time I only had enough money to do Syrah. But I wanted to do something different and work with other varietals. I love drinking Spanish wine and am really attracted to Rioja. I love the terroir from that region and the fruit, as well as the aromatics of that wine. So I had to think about what I wanted to do with that varietal in Washington. The Stone Tree vineyard was a good site for making Tempranillo and that kind of wine, so I started making wine from that vineyard site in 2008. In years past we were working with fruit from the Les Collines Vineyard but I didn’t like the fruit as much as from the Stone Tree Vineyard in terms of the wine we were making. Stone Tree just allowed us to make the right wine. As a vineyard, Stone Tree is a really hot site and a really stressed site. Everything in the vineyard looks like it was planted yesterday and it was planted in 1999 and 2002. The site’s Tempranillo is early one to bud break and the first varietal that we pick. The Stone Tree Tempranillo produces some big berries. While the berries grow not quite as big as Grenache, they can become overripe. You have to be careful with the dropping acid levels of Tempranillo. We pick on the early side, around 24 brix which is leaves the clusters bright, tannic and fruit driven like Rioja. We ferment Tempranillo cold so we don’t over-extract it and we want to be careful with the ripeness levels. In making the wine I want to balance American oak with the Tempranillo to pay homage to the best of Spain. We also use some remaining French barrels in blending for our Tempranillo. We also tend to do earlier racking to balance the tannins.

WWB: You have achieved considerable success in a short amount of time. How are you balancing selling out of your wines and also wanting to increase production?-

RC: Running out of wines and bringing them to bottle is a challenge in the wine industry. That is a big part of being in the wine business. If you can put a perfect world together you release a vintage and then sell it throughout the year and then the next year release the next one. We bottle wine now and we move them. That is a good thing and I would rather do that than sit on vintages. That is a tricky part, right now is that our location in SoDo has been going through the roof. We have been selling a lot of wine there and that are in general has become very popular. The press has been helping with getting people in our doors and learning about our wines.  Our Walla Walla tasting room has been going really nicely too. It is my job to try to balance everything and that is not always easy. Right now we are in that in between stage with the ’13 vintage and getting ready to bottle our white wines and roses and then we can release them before summer. In May we will do our new red bottlings for fall release. The reality of all that is I am doing the best job that I can with running winery and the team. We are about 2500 to 3000 cases right now per year and I am looking at adding a little more tonnage to make everything else work. It is a challenge in so far as making things work. I would like to increase production a bit in the next coming years.

WWB: You had a lot of experience working in Walla Walla under some big names in winemaking, such as Maria Forgeron and Justin Wylie. Can you talk the knowledge that you have gained from others in the Walla Walla wine industry?-

RC: I am humbled by the good press that our winery has received. Getting to this point has been a remarkable journey for me. I started with six barrels of wine and now there are 250 barrels back there [in the winery]. Diving in and believing in something was really exciting for me. I was fortunate. I worked my ass off when I was in Walla Walla and met as many people as I could. I think my personality drove some of that because I am a gregarious guy that enjoys being around people. I really enjoyed the people I was around in Walla Walla. My first job was with Maria Forgeron. At Forgeron I was the cellar rat which meant cleaning bins and scrubbing. Maria is a very talented winemaker and her husband, Gilles Nicault works at Long Shadows. I had the chance to meet him and learn from him, as well. Working under Maria Forgeron, I was trying to learn her process of winemaking. She was working with larger volumes of wines and that opened my eyes to the complexities of fermentation and how she makes her white wines. I think she is an excellent winemaker. I learned about temperature control with fermenting and dialing in with those wines. After working at Forgeron I learned that I wanted to work with a smaller winery, so I joined Va Piano and became their assistant winemaker. Working under Justin [Wylie] at Va Piano was a fantastic experience. I told him that I wanted to eventually make my own brand. I had a business background and was going to help him open his wine club and I helped him with that and with the winemaking. Justin has a custom crush facility and that helps covering cost for a new winery. That was a great chance to make wines at his facility.

Now I make my own wines at Kerloo. A lot of people in the Washington wine industry feel that our styles [his and Justin’s] of winemaking are quite similar. I had a chance to see each different vintage and what the winemakers did with their wines each year and that was a big opportunity to learn from them. I learned how the winemakers do things from the managing the fruit to oak profiles to fermentation and barrels. And alcohol levels obviously play a huge role. All these parts were such a big eye opener for me. It is hard putting everything together to make a wine. I tell a lot of people that I am always learning how to make wine which is always a process in each vintage. Once I learned how to see every component working together, I was able to obtain the tools to do it. While working in Walla Walla I was able to source from some great vineyards in Washington State and that is really cool. When I was in Walla Walla I saw 30 different vineyards that came through the winery door and I was able to taste like 200 different wines. These great opportunities gave me the chance to hone in what I do now.

Long Shadows

I must admit that visiting the Long Shadows Woodinville tasting room is a fantastic wine ritual. Quality has never been a problem at Long Shadows, but the new release wines seem to be even more impressive than the absolutely awesome 2012 releases. Needless to say I was absolutely blown away with these new outstanding new release wines.

Try to find the 2013 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet (WWB, 96) wherever you can. This wine is sold out but it is also the best edition of the ‘Feather’ that I have sampled in the past ten years. This deep, unctuous and impossible to resist Cabernet is up there with the best in the state. Also check out the stunning 2013 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot (WWB, 95) which shows incredible richness and complexity that rivals the best ‘Pedestal’ wines I have sampled. Learn more about this amazing winery at http://www.longshadows.com/ Here are the amazing new release wines from Long Shadows.

2015 Long Shadows ‘Poet's Leap’ Riesling- The wine was sourced from the Sagemoor, Underwood Mountain and Phil Church vineyard, as well as Horse Heaven Hills vineyards. Head winemaker Armin Diel has crafted a brilliant new release wine here. The wine begins with a bouquet of apricot, poached pear, cut grass and cantaloupe. The wine yields bright flavors of white peach, Pazzaz apple, honeydew melon and hints of lemongrass. This is absolutely refreshing and gorgeous as this wine has a bright structure despite the heat of the vintage. The 2015 Poet’s Leap is showcasing why this is possibly the best Kabinett Riesling in the state. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2014 Long Shadows 'Saggi' Red Wine- Following up the highly impressive 2013 'Saggi' bottling, this 2014 edition is packed with dense aromatics and flavors. Head winemakers Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari from the famed Folonari house in Tuscany, head this project. The red wine was sourced from Candy Mountain and Bouchey vineyard Sangiovese as well as Stone Tree Vineyard Cabernet, as this is a blend of 52% Sangiovese, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Syrah.  This wine begins with aromatics of red cherry, anise, spicebox and hints of red raspberry and dried thyme. There are bright flavors of smoked pork shoulder, red cherry, coffee grounds and hints of white pepper. There are rich flavors of red cherry, red raspberry, wild blackberry pie and hints of sagebrush. The finish lingers in this one of a kind Washington red blend. While this is absolutely stunning right out of the bottle, this will also cellar well into the next decade. Drink 2016-2027- 93

2013 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Randy Dunn crafts this 100% Cabernet wine. This is his best effort in 10 years of trying this wine. The Cabernet begins with aromas of red bell pepper, red raspberry and red cherry. Absolutely amazing richness and depth with mouthwatering acidity. Layered flavors of anise, creme de cassis, red bell pepper and a long and persistent finish. The tannins are evident but are not overwhelming at this juncture. Absolutely decadent, as this will be a very long ager. Don't drink this gorgeous wine for at least another year. Drink 2017-2030- 96

2013 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot- Michel Rolland, Pomerol vintner and consultant to many of the world's top wineries, produces this fantastic Merlot wine. The blending is comprised of 75% Merlot with 10% Cabernet, 9% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. This is the smallest portion of Merlot used for the wine, other than in the 2003 inaugural vintage. The Merlot has aromas of black cherry, black olive and anise. There are rich and dense flavors of Turkish coffee, anise, black cherry and graphite. Absolutely intense and outstanding effort, with an herbaceous character. An absolutely stunning effort. Drink 2017-2030- 95

2013 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine- Long Shadows partners with Agustin Huneeus, Sr. and Philippe Melka to craft Pirouette. The wine is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. This powerful Bordeaux style blend was aged 22 months in 70 percent new French oak.This blend begins with aromas of anise, smoke, spicebox and black cherry. Flavors of blackberry, anise, black cherry and vanilla persist. There is an incredible seamless texture to this wine. The blend has moderate tannins and nice grip on the palate. This is another stunner from these guys. Drink 2016-2030- 94

2013 Long Shadows 'Chester-Kidder' Red Wine-This inky colored wine is a blend of 58% Cabernet, 34% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc and weighs in at 15.2% alcohol. The wine begins with a bouquet of cedar, mocha, black cherry, black pepper and hints of blackberry cobbler. There are dense flavors reminiscent of black cherry, anise, creme de cassis and mocha with suggestions of graphite. This is dense and gorgeous wine that has a plush texture. Drink 2016-2030- 94

2014 Long Shadows 'Sequel' Syrah- This amazing wine was done by John Duval, the eminent Aussie winemaker. The wine opens with aromatics of smoked brisket, white pepper, black olive and hints of mocha and blackberry jam. There are dense flavors of black cherry, mocha, anise, creme de cassis and blackberry cobbler. This is intense, extracted and maintains nice balance as this is up there with the best Sequel wines I've tried in the past ten years. Drink 2016-2027- 95

2014 Nine Hats Malbec- This wine was primarily sourced from The Benches Vineyard. The wine opens with aromas of blueberry, black cherry, black olive and hints of dark chocolate. There are flavors of black cherry, mocha, coffee grounds and black olive. This has a plush mouthfeel and texture. Drink 2016-2022- 91

2014 Nine Hats Syrah- This wine opens with aromas of smoked meats, dried sage, anise and hints of black olive. There are flavors of black cherry, black olive, smoked meats and blackberry cobbler. This is forward and delicious. Drink 2016-2022- 90

Washington Report

Dear Friends,

I have been working hard on my Washington Report for International Wine Report over the past year. This report encompasses over 400 Washington wine reviews from across the state, crisp, bright Rieslings to herbaceous, savory Cabernets to rocky, mineral driven Syrahs. I hope you find this report informative as I've had the chance to sample some of the best wines in this great state. Washington has enjoyed some great vintages of late. These are some very exciting times for the Washington wine industry and it is a great joy and privilege to be a part of this moment. I hope you enjoy diving into our report as much as I have enjoyed reviewing these great wines. Follow the link to the report here:

• http://www.internationalwinereport.com/articles/washington-2013-2014

Cheers!

Dr. Owen Bargreen

Executive Editor, Washington Wine Blog

Associate Editor, International Wine Report

Corliss Estates

A few weeks back I had the opportunity to taste at Corliss Estates. A stunning facility located in Walla Walla, Corliss focuses on Bordeaux varietals and they are currently showcasing the 2011 vintage, a cooler year in Washington. The new release wines were some of the best wines that I have sampled from that vintage, so kudos to head winemaker Alexander Trio and winemaking consultant Philippe Melka. I had the chance to chat with Trio during the tasting and he was pretty happy about what the ’11 vintage brought to him, despite obvious warmth issues. I was particularly impressed with how Trio crafted his 2011 Corliss Estates Cabernet (WWB, 94), a wine that took the best earthy and herbaceous aspects of the vintage and combined that with nice richness and a silky mouthfeel. Most of these wines are challenging to obtain and can be found in some online stores. Learn more about Corliss Estates at http://corlissestates.com Here are the great new release wines from Corliss Estates.

2011 Corliss Estates Cabernet-The 2011 Corliss Estates Cabernet Sauvignon is a striking effort from this challenging vintage.  This late release wine opens with aromatics of graphite, black olive, black cherry and sagebrush with hints of thyme and eucalyptus. A highly herbaceous aromatic profile, the palate has a deep core with earthy flavors of black cherry, graphite, coffee grounds, black olive, with chewy moderate tannins. The structure of this wine is gorgeous, having a great left bank Bordeaux feel. Give this wine another year in the bottle before enjoying.  Drink 2017-2030- 94

2011 Corliss Estates Red Wine- 2011 Corliss Red Blend- Their flagship wine, this blend is a combination of Cabernet, Cab Franc and Merlot. The wine opens with aromas of creme de cassis, blackberry pie, anise, sage and hints of mulberry. There are deep flavors of creme de cassis, anise, graphite, sandalwood and red cherry. Like the '11 Cabernet bottling, the tangible Bordelaise feel is there. Tightly wound and intense, this needs another year at least in the bottle to develop. Drink 2017-2033- 93

2011 Corliss Estates Malbec- This intense wine begins with aromas of creme de cassis, mocha, anise, sandalwood and Turkish coffee. This Malbec has flavors of mocha, anise, black olive, creme de cassis and roasted figs. This will have an exceedingly long life and really deserves another year of bottle age prior to enjoying. Drink 2017-2030- 93

Casa Smith

Charles Smith is a marketing guru. I’ll admit that I was somewhat skeptical about this project, which focuses on Italian varietals in Washington State. I’ve had wonderful bottlings of Sangio from Leonetti and but I generally have been underwhelmed with the potential of these varietals in Washington. These new release wines from Casa Smith were surprisingly serious, as the fruit and the winemaking were impressive.

I really enjoyed the 2014 Casa Smith ‘Porsocspino’ Primitivo (WWB, 90) which was dense and polished, showcasing this hot vintage. The best wine I sampled (and also the best Washington Barbera I have ever sampled) was the 2012 Casa Smith ‘Jack’s Vineyard’ Barbera (WWB, 92). This wine is serious and displays a gorgeous range of blue and black fruit flavors, showing generous texture and viscosity. All these wines are priced right. Learn more about Casa Smith at http://www.charlessmithwines.com/casasmith/  Here are the great new wines from Casa Smith.

2015 Charles Smith ‘Vino’ Moscato- This wine begins with aromatics of white peach, honeysuckle, and Pazzaz apple. This leads to sweet flavors of lychee, baked pear and hints of orange blossom with Lemoncello accents. Despite the sweetness there is nice structure. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2015 Charles Smith ‘Vino’ Rosso Red Wine- A blend of 75% Cabernet with 25% Sangiovese, the wine opens with an aromatic profile of baking spices, cassis, anise, leather and black cherry. This leads to flavors reminiscent of black olive, wild blackberry preserves, coffee grounds and allspice. With medium tannins and nice balance, this impresses for the price. Drink 2016-2020- 89

2014 Casa Smith ‘Cinghiale’ Sangiovese- Sourced from the Wahluke Slope, the wine begins with aromatics reminiscent of red cherry, black tea, smoke and leather elements. There are flavors of crushed wet stone, leather, black tea and boysenberry jam. With some polished tannins, this wine has a lovely mouthfeel. Drink 2016-2021- 89

2014 Casa Smith ‘Cervo’ Barbera- Sourced from the esteemed Northridge Vineyard, the wine begins with aromas of black plum, black tea, mulberry and red cherry. There are flavors of black plum, anise, and baking spices. Forward and rich, this will drink beautifully into the next decade. Drink 2016-2021- 90

2014 Casa Smith ‘Porscospino’ Primitivo- This Zinfandel wine opens with aromas of crème de cassis, anise, blackberry jam and suggestions of sour cherry. There are rich flavors of baking spices, tobacco leaf, red cherry and red raspberry. This shows nice structure and has a plush mouthfeel. Drink 2016-2021- 90

2012 Casa Smith ‘Jack’s Vineyard’ Barbera- A dense and layered treat, this Barbera wine begins with aromas of blueberry compote, boysenberry preserves, mocha and red cherry with dill. There are rich flavors of pomegranate, red bell pepper, blueberry compote and coffee ground accents. With a dense mouthfeel and excellent viscosity, this is a one of a kind Washington wine. Drink 2016-2024- 92

Interview with Josh McDaniels, Head Winemaker of Doubleback and Sweet Valley Wines

It is my deepest pleasure to share this exciting interview with you all. A winemaker that needs no introduction, Josh McDaniels served as assistant winemaker at Leonetti before taking over at Doubleback and Sweet Valley Wines.  If you haven’t had the last two absolutely incredible releases from Doubleback, you are missing out on some killer Cabernet. The latest 2013 Doubleback Cabernet (WWB, 94) is an intense, hedonistic gem of a wine. I had the chance to sit down with Josh and talk wine. I found him to be incredible humble and a delight to chat with, as he talked about his roots in the industry and how he learned from superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. Here is my new interview with Josh McDaniels. I hope you enjoy!

WWB: What was it like growing up in Walla Walla during the wine boom and seeing the town change?

JM: As a kid growing up in Walla Walla and seeing the very beginnings of the wine "boom", I really embraced the change and was fascinated by what it did and brought to the town.  I always saw a very qualitative and collaborative approach to the growth.  The wine industry is extremely competitive, and so am I, but the competition seemed (and still does) more about Walla Walla as a whole being competitive with the rest of the wine world.  When I noticed that, and saw the quality oriented changes, in every small detail of growth, I was hooked and immediately immersed myself as much as possible.

WWB: Can you talk about how your education at the Walla Walla Enology and Viticulture Center prepared you for working at Leonetti, Sweet Valley and Doubleback?

JM: I actually worked in the wine industry, and started my own small label before I enrolled in the Enology and Viticulture Center.  I think that beforehand experience really rooted me with some great fundamentals prior to getting a more formal education.  Initially, the college did not want to accept me in to the program due to me being 19 years old, but eventually my longtime mentor and friend, Chris Figgins, went to bat for me and I was accepted- it was a different time!  The program, however, was a great rounding out of my prior experience and gave me the tools I needed to be a successful winemaker.  The late Stan Clarke had a fantastic and realistic viewpoint on the wine industry that I very much appreciated.  When he sadly passed away, it was a unique year in which we had numerous industry members come in to teach classes and I think that in itself was very interesting and beneficial.

WWB: I found the 2013 Doubleback Cabernet (WWB, 95) to be an absolutely scintillating new release Cabernet. Can you talk about this special wine and the vintage, as well as the winemaking behind it?

JM: The 2013 vintage was another great growing season coming in between a string of great growing seasons.  We always approach our winemaking to be more of an elegant and restrained style of wine.  It would have been easy for our owner, Drew Bledsoe, to come in, slap his name on a bottle, and make really over the top, extracted, over ripe and oaked wines but that is not what he wants and I have been excited about that since the inception of the project as it is what I was used to with the Figgins Family.  I think the 2013 Doubleback really exemplifies that notion of finesse and elegance, especially as our Estate fruit percentage continues to make up a higher percentage of the blend- something we are extremely excited about.

WWB: What was it like working under Chris Figgins at Leonetti? 

JM: I have the utmost respect for the entire Figgins family.  Chris's Dad, Gary, and my Dad worked at the Continental Canning Co. here in Walla Walla when I was little and so in that regard, I felt like I could relate to having humble beginnings.  They're success over the years has been well earned and to be able to be a student in their cellars was a tremendous experience that I did not take lightly.  Being so young when I got in the wine industry, their style of winemaking was truly engrained in to me from the start and I really appreciated my almost 10 years of time working under Chris.  From the vineyards, the winemaking and the business of a winery, he was a fantastic teacher.

WWB: What are some of your other favorite producers of Washington wines and wines of the world?

JM: Some of my other favorite Washington producers are the likes of Gramercy, Abeja, and of course all of my friends in what we call the "Young Guns" group.  Outside of Washington wines, I have lately been loving Oregon Pinot Noir such as Bergstrom and Soter.  Abroad, I have become a compulsive shopper with Master Sommelier Ian Cauble's "Somm Select" which I have recently been more in to Right and Left Bank Bordeaux, and the Northern Rhone valley.  Lastly, I spent some time working in Argentina for Paul Hobb's Vina Cobos and so am always a fan of their wines as well as the likes of Achaval Ferrer down in Mendoza.

Beaulieu Vineyard

One of my favorite stops in Napa, Beaulieu Vineyard or BV has gained a very strong national reputation for great Cabernet over the past 20 years. I was very impressed with what they produced from the great vintages of 2012 and 2013. A gorgeous setting for tasting some of Napa’s finest wines, the BV Reserve Room is one of the most serene locations for wine tasting in the valley. I was very impressed with the new lineup of wines from BV which are completely irresistible. I had the chance to meet their superstar winemaker Jeffrey Stambor at a wine event earlier this year and he talked about the meticulous details that go into producing their high end wines.

I’ve had more than ten previous vintages of their ‘Tapestry’ Reserve wine and the 2012 Tapestry (WWB, 92) is up there with the best that I have sampled, displaying some really nice dark fruit flavors and medium tannins. The star of the show was the 2012 BV ‘Georges de Latour’ Cabernet (WWB, 94) and up there with the best Cabernets that I sampled in the valley. This is a big but balanced wine that has the structure to cellar for decades. The bottling is up there with the 1996 as my favorite bottlings of ‘Georges de Latour.’ Several of these wines can be found at Costco. You can also look for these wines at Total Wines and More, as well as some northwest wine shops like Wine World and Esquin. Learn more about BV wines at Here are the new reserve wines from BV.

2013 BV ‘Carneros Reserve’ Pinot Noir- This impressive wine starts with aromas of red raspberry, red cherry and dill with suggestions of nutmeg. The wine has flavors of red cherry, pomegranate, red raspberry and hints of lavender. With lovely texture and weight, there is a seamless quality to this wine. Drink 2016-2025-93

2012 BV 'Tapestry' Reserve Red Wine-The wine begins with dense aromas of dill, blackberry, sage and mocha. There are rich flavors of blackberry jam, mocha, anise and black raspberry. Lovely texture to this wonderful blend that has a polished finish. There are some medium tannins which suggest that is needing a long decant. This is one of the best Tapestry bottlings that I have sampled in more than a deacde. Drink 2016-2028- 92

2012 BV 'Georges de Latour' Cabernet- BV has made this wine for decades and this is up there with the best bottlings that I have had since the ’96. This impressive wine opens with a lovely range of aromas including red currant, dill, red bell pepper, wild blackberry and anise. There are rich flavors of blackberry cobbler, coffee grounds, creme de cassis and anise. Incredible complexity and texture to this gorgeous Cabernet that has some medium tannins. Up there with the best in the valley. If enjoying now, be sure to give this a two hour decant. Drink 2016-2035- 94

2011 BV 'Clone 6' Reserve Cabernet- This impressive cold vintage wine begins with aromas of red bell pepper, pipe tobacco, anise and creme de cassis. This leads to flavors of red berry, mocha, anise and red bell pepper. There is lovely texture and weight to this impressive wine. Drink 2016-2040- 93

W.T. Vintners

One of the standout wineries in the Woodinville Warehouse District, W.T. Vintners focuses on limited production wines from great sites in Washington like the Stoney Vine Vineyard and Destiny Ridge Vineyard. Head winemaker Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen is also the lead somm at one of the best restaurants in Seattle, RN74. He is a level 3 somm (advanced) and is currently studying for his master somm exam. Jeff is not only a killer winemaker, he is a super cool, down to earth guy.

His new releases impressed and carried some incredible value. His 2013 W.T. Vintners ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) is one of the best values from the Walla Walla Rocks region that I have ever sampled. The wine has incredible depth, complexity and rocky terroir and comes with a remarkably reasonable price tag. Similarly stunning was their 2013 W.T. Vintners ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 93) which showed wonderful poise, rocky terroir and brisk minerality. Learn more about these great wines at http://www.wtvintners.com/. Here are the fantastic new release wines by W.T. Vintners.

2014 W.T. Vintners Gruner Veltliner- This wine begins with aromas of gooseberry, starfruit, cantaloupe and red delicious apple. There are flavors of starfruit, cut grass, green papaya and Bartlett pear. This Gruner shows lovely balance and structure. Drink 2016-2020- 90

 2013 W.T. Vintners ‘Gorgeous’ Syrah- This is sourced from the Destiny Ridge Vineyard. The wine starts with aromas of red cherry, red raspberry, cola and white pepper. There are flavors of black cherry, blackberry cobbler, black olive and black pepper. This is a lovely layered and polished effort. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2013 W.T. Vintners ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Red Blend- The 2013 Stoney Vine Vineyard' Red Blend is a stunner from W.T. Vintners and head winemaker Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen. The wine is a blend of 53% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and shows the best of the Walla Walla Rocks region. This wine opens with aromas of prune, red cherry, and wet gravel with some smoky accents. There are flavors of red raspberry, crushed wet gravel, blood orange rind and black cherry with suggestions of smoked meats and black olive. This is a silky and textured wine that is impossible to resist right now. The softness of the Grenache shows through. At this price, the wine is an absolute steal. In fact, I have never seen a wine of this quality and price from the Walla Walla Rocks region. This impressive bottling has the structure to cellar for another decade. Drink 2016-2026- 94

 2013 W. T. Vintners ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah- The wine starts with aromas of smoked meats, white pepper, thyme, wet rock and red currant. There are dense flavors of black cherry, blackberry cobbler, wet rock and leather. This wine is layered and intense, yet maintaining a Rhone feel. With a lithe minerality, I can see this cellaring very well. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2012 W. T. Vintners ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- The wine starts with aromas of black olive smoked meats and blackberry preserves. The wine has flavors of black cherry, anise, black olive and leather. This is earthy and terroir driven Syrah, showcasing this great vineyard. Drink 2016-2025- 92

Washington Red Wines For Fall

Summer has sadly come and gone. The rainy season brings on some good things including swapping Rose for dense Syrahs. I wanted to highlight some recently reviewed Washington red wines for the cooler weather which have impressed. This is only a short list that is listed in order of varietal weight (lighter to heavier wines) as a more comprehensive report that I’ve created for International Wine Report is coming very soon. Be sure to check out the amazing values at the $20 and under section! Cheers from Washington Wine Blog!

Under $20:

2013 Market Vineyards 'Derivative' Red Wine- A blend of 40% Cabernet, 40% Cab Franc and 20% Merlot this silky wine was aged in 30% new oak prior to bottling. The wine has an aromatic profile of cedar, black cherry, black plum and spicebox. Forward and appealing, the wine has rich flavors of red cherry, Turkish coffee, cassis and milk chocolate. The feminine side from the Cab Franc really makes this wine sing. While this will cellar well into the next decade is hard to resist right now. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2014 NxNW Red Blend- Weighing in at 13.7% alcohol with just a touch of residual sugar, this wine opens with aromas of black plum, sandalwood, red cherry and Turkish coffee. There are flavors of black olive, black cherry, blackberry jam and mocha. While the mild sugar content is there, this is a well-made, great value out of the Columbia Valley. The plush mouthfeel brings you back to the glass.  Drink 2016-2022- 90

2013 Maryhill 'Winemaker's Red' Red Wine- This intriguing blend was sourced from more than 25 Columbia Valley vineyards. The wine starts with aromatics of black cherry, black olive, coffee grounds and blackberry jam. There are flavors reminiscent of black cherry, black raspberry, cassis and milk chocolate. Forward and rich, this is an excellent effort for the price. Drink 2016-2022-89

2014 Dunham ‘Three Legged Red’ Red Wine-The wine begins with aromatics of smoked brisket, creosote, black cherry and anise. This leads to flavors reminiscent of red cherry, anise, red currant and black olive. Lithe and polished, this red wine is a fantastic value with a smooth mouthfeel. Drink 2016-2021-90

2014 Columbia Crest 'H3' Cabernet-Columbia Crest has gained a sterling reputation for outstanding values out of Washington State, and this wine is no exception. This excellent Cabernet is blended with 16% Merlot. Immediately you’ll notice the aroma of cherries and blackberries bursting out of the glass. The wine continues to exude more ripe berries and cherry pie on the palate with the subtle addition of leather and even a hint of tobacco. The Cabernet finishes with a moderate tannic structure and a smooth, ripe fruit ending with a slight mineral streak in the background. This Cabernet would pair beautifully with most red meats, but the Cabernet also has potential to pair nicely with chocolate focused desserts. While the blend of the Columbia Crest 'H3' Cabernet changes from year to year (typically it’s well over 90% Cabernet), the winemaking has resulted in a remarkably consistent wine and if you’ve enjoyed H3 Cabernet in past years, you’re sure to enjoy the 2014 as well. Drink 2026-2022- 90 (S.L)

Over $20

2013 W. T. Vintners ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah- The wine starts with aromas of smoked meats, white pepper, thyme, wet rock and red currant. There are dense flavors of black cherry, blackberry cobbler, wet rock and leather. This wine is layered and intense, yet maintaining a Rhone feel. With a lithe minerality, I can see this cellaring very well. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2014 Rotie Cellars ‘Northern Blend’ Red Wine- The 2014 'Northern Blend' is a gorgeous new release wine by Rotie Cellars and superstar head winemaker Sean Boyd. A traditional Cote Rotie style wine, this has 5% Viognier blended into the Syrah. Needing a one hour decent to fully display itself, as the wine settles in the glass it starts to bring smoky aromas of creosote, provencale herbs, smoked brisket, and suggestions of cayenne dark chocolate. The inky colored Syrah wine has flavors reminiscent of blueberry puree, bacon fat, wild blackberry jam, milk chocolate and sagebrush. There is a lot to love here. This Syrah is plush, round and impossible to resist right now. Drink 2016-2025- 93

2014 Rasa Vineyards ‘Living in the Limelight’ Petit Verdot- One of the best of its kind in Washington state, the 2014 'Living in the Limelight' Petit Verdot is a monster new release wine from Rasa Vineyards. The wine was sourced from the Bacchus Vineyard and opens with aromatics of black tea, sage, black olive and black cherry. There are deep flavors of black cherry, black olive, black cherry, thyme and sage. Hugely balanced, with a striking minerality, the wine needs at least another year for the fruit flavors to develop and tannins to dissipate. It is safe to say that I have never sampled a better 100% Washington Petit Verdot. Drink 2017-2030- 94

2013 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Randy Dunn crafts this 100% Cabernet wine. I see this as his his best effort in 10 years of trying this wine. The Cabernet begins with aromas of red bell pepper, red raspberry and red cherry. Absolutely amazing richness and depth with mouthwatering acidity. Layered flavors of anise, creme de cassis, red bell pepper and a long and persistent finish. The tannins are evident but are not overwhelming at this juncture. Absolutely decadent, as this will be a very long ager. Don't drink this gorgeous wine for at least another year. Drink 2017-2030- 96

2013 Fidelitas ‘Red Mountain’ Malbec- This is a blend of 3 vineyards on Red Mountain. This wine starts with aromas of black plum, coffee grounds, roasted dates and milk chocolate. There are flavors of blackberry preserves, mocha and roasted figs. This is a simply gorgeous wine with lovely weight and structure that is up there with the best Malbec in the state. Drink 2016-2025- 93

Opus One

It is hard to believe that it was a week ago that I had the incredible opportunity to visit one of the iconic wineries of the world, Opus One. It was a gorgeous day and setting to taste some absolutely scintillating new release wines. Opus One began in 1979 as a partnership between Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild and became the first ultra-premium California wine to be sold in France and Internationally.  Opus produces only one wine and a second wine (Overature) – both of which are typically a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Their estate includes part of the famed To-Kalon Vineyard, as well as other Oakville vineyards. Head winemaker Michael Silacci crafts an extraordinary wine. His 2012 and 2013 new releases were absolutely exceptional.

The 2012 Opus One (WWB, 98) was a silky and beautifully textured effort, which was mostly constructed of Cabernet. It was hedonistic and dense, while maintaining a feminine side that their 2013 release was not showing. A masculine and dense treat, the 2013 Opus One Red Wine (WWB, 99) was even more dense and massive, showing a cornucopia of dark fruit flavors, as this layered effort probably needs at least one more year in the bottle to show off its massive potential. Learn more about Opus One at http://www.opusonewinery.com/ Here are the gorgeous new release wines by Opus One.

2012 Opus One Red Wine- The 2012 Opus One is a stunning release from this storied Napa Valley producer. While there is intense fruit, it is hard to describe the silky texture and plush mouthfeel, which brings you back to the glass for more decadence. This blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6%Petit Verdot, 6% Merlot and 2% Malbec begins with seductive aromatics of black cherry, crème de cassis, mocha, tar and anise, all coming together beautifully in the glass. There are vivid flavors of crème de cassis, blackberry, mocha, sage and black olive which lead to an exceedingly long, voluptuous finish. Overall, this possesses incredible poise and elegance, showing a simply gorgeous seamless quality throughout. While this is drinking beautifully at this stage, it certainly has the potential to cellar for two more decades, or even more. Drink 2016-2035- 98

2013 Opus One Red Wine- The 2013 Opus One is an absolute stunning release, and is certainly one of most impressive young wines I have ever tasted from this estate. This shows a darker, more forward profile from this warm vintage, and is clearly one to contemplate, as there are so many complexities and working parts to this compelling wine. This instantly impresses as it opens to intense aromatics of crème de cassis, black cherry, blackberry compote and black plum woven together with mocha, sandalwood. The mouthfeel is voluptuous and beautifully concenrated with deep and penetrating flavors of black cherry, créme de cassis, blackberry cobbler, anise, sage and anise, which all resonate beautifully across the palate. This is already extreamly appealing, but try to resist this hedonistic wine for at least another few years, as there is undoubtedly a long future ahead. Drink 2017-2035- 99

Market Vineyards

Based in Richland, with a tasting room in Woodinville, Market Vineyards new release wines across the board were highly impressive. Market Vineyards has relied on the winemaking talents of Charlie Hoppes in crafting some excellent red wines. Hoppes owns Fidelitas Wines and his signature style is reflected in the Market Vineyards bottlings. There is a lovely sense of place and terroir with their new release bottlings. One wine that stood out and is an awesome value for the price is their 2013 ‘Derivative’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet and Merlot. This beautiful bottling shows the feminine side of Cabernet Franc and offers serious value at the $20.00 price point. This is truly one to pick up for the case. Another bottling that impresses is their 2012 ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot (WWB, 91) which is a wine that has a silky mouthfeel and plush red and dark fruit flavors. Learn more about Market Vineyards at http://www.marketvineyards.com Here are the great new release wines from Market Vineyards.

2014 Market Vineyards 'Liquidity' White Wine- A blend of Viognier and Roussanne, this hot vintage white weighs in at 14.7% alcohol. The wine starts with aromas of white peach, pink grapefruit, and orange blossom. There are flavors of lychee, vanilla, pineapple and Pink Lady apple. This shows nice weight and balance, with an oily texture.  Drink 2016-2021- 89

2013 Market Vineyards 'Dividend' Syrah- This dark hued Syrah opens with an aromatic profile of red cherry, dill, blackberry and hints of sage. The flavors of blackberry pie, milk chocolate and red cherry cascade on the smooth mid-palate. Medium weight and currently displaying a smoky edge, this Syrah would pair beautifully with smoked pork shoulder. Drink 2016-2023- 90

2011 Market Vineyards 'Basis Points' Red Wine- This cold vintage wine is a blend of mostly (33% for both) Cabernet and Merlot with lesser parts (both 17%) Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The wine begins with aromatics of dill, sagebrush, black cherry and hints of leather. There are flavors of black cherry, anise, smoked meats and a touch of mocha. This shows nice complexity considering the coldness of the vintage. Drink 2016-2024- 89

2012 Market Vineyards 'Columbia Valley' Merlot-This Merlot wine opens with aromatics of prune, black plum, black cherry and sagebrush. There are rich flavors of cassis, anise, black cherry, prune and dates. The minerality is there providing a nice backbone to this fruity Merlot. I think this will cellar marvelously into the next decade. Drink 2016-2024- 91

2013 Market Vineyards 'Derivative' Red Wine- A blend of 40% Cabernet, 40% Cab Franc and 20% Merlot this silky wine was aged in 30% new oak prior to bottling. The wine has an aromatic profile of cedar, black cherry, black plum and spicebox. Forward and appealing, the wine has rich flavors of red cherry, Turkish coffee, cassis and milk chocolate. The feminine side from the Cab Franc really makes this wine sing. While this will cellar well into the next decade is hard to resist right now. Drink 2016-2026- 92

2012 Market Vineyards Malbec- This dense colored wine has nice aromas of milk chocolate, white pepper, allspice and blackberry jam. There are rich flavors of black cherry, blackberry, green olive and hints of milk chocolate. A wonderful effort here from this great vintage. Drink 2016-2022- 90

2012 Market Vineyards 'Red Mountain' Merlot- The wine starts with black cherry, black olive, allspice and hints of anise. There are rich flavors of black cherry, anise, black olive and cassis.  This is polished and layered, showing some nice age from this great vintage as the wine is nicely rounded out. Drink 2016-2023- 91

2010 Market Vineyards 'Red Mountain' Cabernet-This Cabernet wine begins with herbaceous aromatics of dill, red bell pepper, cassis and anise. There are flavors of cassis, anise, green olive, red bell pepper and hints of sagebrush. This is lovely structured wine from this cold vintage as the tannins have softened, currently showing a soft mouthfeel.  Drink 2016-2022- 90

Archery Summit

Set in the Red Hills alongside neighbors Domaine Serene, Domaine Drouhin, White Rose and other Willamette Valley greats, Archery Summit is a gorgeous setting for excellent Oregon Pinot Noir. Started by the Pine Ridge baron Gary Andrus, this estate relies on a variety of vineyards across the valley, as well as estate fruit. The winery itself is stunning and has an absolutely gorgeous cave setting for tasting.  I recently stopped by there to sample their excellent 2014 Pinots. The winery has six estate vineyards totaling 120 acres, with 5 vineyards in the red volcanic soil of the Dundee Hills AVA and 1 vineyard in the ancient sea bed of the adjacent Ribbon Ridge AVA. Winemaker Chris Mazepink came to the winery in 2013 and also currently serves as the general manager. Mazepink has a wealth of experience in the valley, starting at Lemelson Vineyards as assistant winemaker. He spent four years at Shea Wine Cellars before joining Benton Lane Winery as Director of Winemaking and Viticulture.

I was highly impressed with what they achieved with the excellent 2014 vintage. The structure and weight of their wines were lovely. Their 2015 ‘Ab Oro’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 93) was a gorgeous bottling that showed nice richness and intensity. That great Gris serves as a perfect summer wine for shellfish. All of their 2014 Pinots showed great poise and fruit flavors, although most of them were needing more time in the bottle to settle, which I have found true for wines having tasted at Archery over the past ten years. The 2014 Archery Summit ‘Arcus Estate’ (WWB, 95) follows up their excellent 2013 bottling and is one of the best 2014 Oregon Pinots that I have sampled this year. This new Arcus was a dense and rich effort that really needs at least two more years in the bottle to develop.  These wines showed wonderful richness but also deep terroir. Learn more about Archery Summit and their great lineup of wines at http://www.archerysummit.com. Here are the excellent new wines from Archery Summit.

2015 Archery Summit 'Ab Oro' Pinot Gris- The wine opens with aromatics of ripe starfruit, orange blossom, and Bartlett pear. There are rich flavors of poached pear, starfruit, nutmeg and hints of white peach. There is lovely viscosity and texture here to this awesome Pinot Gris. Drink 2016-2023- 93

2014 Archery Summit ‘Premier Cuvee’ Pinot Noir This excellent Pinot Noir opens with aromatics of prune, pomegranate, black cherry, mushroom compote and boysenberry jam. There are flavors of red cherry, Shitake mushroom, wild blackberry and mushroom. The persistence to this wine is lovely. This is up there with their excellent 2012 bottling as the best Premier Cuvee that I have sampled from this estate. This wine has the structure and stuffing to cellar exceedingly well.  Drink 2016-2028-92

2014 Archery Summit ‘Archer’s Edge’ Pinot Noir -This Pinot Noir wine has utilized 105, 667 and 777 Dijon Clones in the blending. The wine opens with powerful aromatics of teaberry, mushroom compote, black cherry and cranberry with hints of cola. The wine has flavors of black cherry, morels, and Earl Grey tea. There is a really generous mouthfeel and texture to this wine which makes this difficult to resist right now. Like all these Archery Summit releases, this will cellar marvelously well. Drink 2016-2028 -93

2014 Archery Summit ‘Red Hills Estate’ Pinot Noir - This fantastic Pinot Noir by Archery Summit starts with aromatics of black cherry, volcanic ash, mushroom compote, black tea and black raspberry. There are rich flavors of black raspberry, pomegranate seed, marionberry, black cherry, anise and mild tannins. This is gorgeous and has wonderful poise and fruit that captures the heat of the vintage. Try to resist this great bottling for at least another year.  Drink 2017-2030- 94

2014 Archery Summit ‘Looney Vineyard’ Pinot Noir -This Pinot Noir wine is sourced from the Ribbon Ridge AVA and has rich aromatics of milk chocolate, black cherry, black truffle and allspice. There are flavors of black cherry, black raspberry, cranberry, blood orange and black tea. Somewhat shut down right now, with some mild to moderate tannins, this Pinot will benefit from some bottle age. Drink 2017-2028- 92

2014 Archery Summit ‘Archery Summit Estate’ Pinot Noir- The absolutely gorgeous 2014 Archery Summit 'Archery Summit Estate' Pinot Noir is showing beautifully right now. The wine starts with aromatics of toasty oak, black cherry, black truffle and Christmas spice. There are deep flavors of black cherry, pomegranate seed, orange rind and black truffle. This wine shows incredible range and poise but can really benefit from another year in the bottle with some mild to moderate tannins currently at play. Drink 2018-2030- 94

2014 Archery Summit ‘Arcus Estate’ Pinot Noir- The best of the excellent 2014 releases from Archery Summit is the 'Arcus Estate' which consistently has been one of their most impressive bottlings since I started tasting there more than a decade ago. This is up there with the best 'Arcus Estate' wines that I have ever sampled. Having a deep core, the wine starts with perfumed aromatics of black cherry, black raspberry, black truffle, white pepper and black plum. There are flavors reminiscent of black cherry, black truffle oil and black raspberry. The weight and balance of this wine is simply gorgeous. Try to avoid drinking this exceptional Pinot for another two years. There is a lovely purity of fruit in this bottling that shows through to the lingering finish. Drink 2018-2035- 95

Interview with Flint Nelson, Head Winemaker at Wit Cellars

After being really impressed with the new wines at Wit Cellars, I had to catch up with their talented winemaker, Flint Nelson. Flint has a longstanding history in the Washington wine community, previously working at Hogue as well as Kestrel for many years. Flint is an awesome guy that has a range of international experiences as well, working harvests in Chile and South Africa. He talked about his wines and the recent vintages that Washington has been blessed with. I think you will really like hearing more of his story. Here is my interview with Flint Nelson, head winemaker at Wit Cellars.

WWB: How did you first decide to become a winemaker?

FN: I knew that when I was in high school I wanted to do this. I was either going to be a dentist or I was going to make wine. Something pushed me towards making wine. It is artistic and not a recipe and it is different every time. I am creative and I love to have a creative outlet, so I think wine lets me do that. I used to paint and I enjoyed that but wine is my creative outlet now.

WWB: Can you talk about your first jobs in winemaking?

FN: I went to work at Columbia Crest, right out of college in 1991. I worked for Joy Anderson, who is still the Snoqualmie winemaker in the lab and then I went to Hogue Cellars. They didn’t really have a job for me but I was working on the legal side of the winery. So I did that until something became open and then worked in the lab as the lab supervisor. I worked my way into winemaking. Then I went to Paul Thomas and was the assistant winemaker there. Then I went to Apex and was the winemaker there and then Kestrel for the past 12 years. During that time I did some internships in the southern hemisphere in Chile and South Africa, so I had a wide range of experiences. My wife is an associate winemaker for Charles Smith and we met at work and talk about wine all of the time. She works on the east side in winemaking and viticulture.

WWB: What are some of the biggest challenges with starting WIT Cellars?

ML: Of course one of the biggest challenges is coming up with enough money to make it happen. We have to sell enough wine to pay for the grapes and the barrels. That is super important. Packaging and supplies is expensive too. Right now I want to make sure that I do right by the growers and the people who trust me with my grapes. There are a ton of challenges but the financial costs is right up there.

WWB: Can you talk about the past three vintages and what you can expect from this vintage in 2016?

FN: 2016 has been interesting. It has been so hot here in eastern Washington this year but now it is super cool. We are going to retain the acidity and will allow the grapes to hang longer and have more flavor development, so I think that 2016 is going to be a beautiful year like 2007 or 2009 where the wines just have this softness and elegance about then. I am really excited and this is one of the ideal growing season [2016]. 2014 and 2015 were very hot vintages here in Washington and we picked early. That kind of weather wasn’t ideal for the white wines but I think that this year we will have better whites this year. I think the red wines will improve as well because will have the time to hang and develop nice acidity. Another thing that will help is with the ripening process because the less ripe berries can catch up with the more ripe ones. The weather here has been cool so the ripe ones don’t fall apart. The hot vintages, those are delicious wines that are ready to drink and are highly popular with consumers.

WWB: Do you have any favorite wines of the world or producers do you gravitate towards?

FN: In the summer I love Roses from Provence and I love Vino Verde from Portugal. I just had a wine the other day that was a Cabernet Franc from Argentina which was aged in concrete and it just blew my mind. There are so many amazing wines from the world. Apparently for this Cabernet Franc, the concrete vessel had no temperature control and the wine was aged in there for a year without temperature control. This is fascinating because the concrete vessel was stored outside and not in the direct sun but it was in the ambient temperatures. It is pretty hot in Mendoza so I thought that was really intriguing wine. I get excited about trying some funky or strange wines as time goes on. That wine was certainly eye opening. My wife had an internship in New Zealand two vintages ago and it was a Nautilus Pinot Noir and it was one of those moments that was so beautiful. I tend to really enjoy wines from New Zealand.  We gravitate towards wines that showcase the vibrancy of the site, such as Spanish and Italian wines. I hope to bring that same vibrancy to wines I make at Wit Cellars.

Leonetti Cellar

A winery with serious prestige, Leonetti Cellar was founded in 1977 as Walla Walla’s first winery. Leonetti’s legacy traces back to the Leonetti Farm, first established in 1906 – which became the site where owner Gary Figgins would come to plant his first commercial vineyard in 1974. Leonetti has received international acclaim for their wines since that time, as they have cemented their place as one of the top wineries in Washington State. Superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, son of Gary Figgins, has been making these impressive wines since 2001. I have been very impressed with the aging potential of these gorgeous wines, which cellar beautifully for decades. Just recently I enjoyed a 2008 Leonetti Merlot, which was incredibly vibrant considering its age.

I recently had the opportunity to stop by the Leonetti estate. Similar to my visit to Leonetti in 2015, this impressive tasting showcased some incredible new release wines, none eclipsing the absolutely scintillating 2013 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (WWB, 97). This massive and structured beauty will cellar beautifully for decades. Their 2014 Leonetti Merlot (WWB, 95) follows up the impressive 2013 bottling and showcases the classic milk chocolate and black fruit tones that have made Leonetti Merlot one of the finest of its kind in North America. Here are the impressive new release wines by Leonetti Cellar. Learn more at http://leonetticellar.com/

2013 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- A stunning wine by this estate, the 2013 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese is likely the most impressive wine of its kind in Washington. Sourced from the Seven Hills, Mill Creek Upland and Serra Pedace vineyards, this 100% Sangiovese wine was aged 22 months in French oak prior to bottling. The wine opens with aromatics of spicebox, pipe tobacco, red cherry, wild strawberry and hints of black tea. The wine has flavors of black cherry, tobacco leaf, black raspberry, black tea and eucalyptus with a striking minerality. This is absolutely gorgeous, as this is truly a one of a kind wine. Drink 2016-2026 -94

2014 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- The 2014 Leonetti Merlot is a gorgeous follow-up to the absolutely scintillating 2013. Masculine and brooding, this exceptional Merlot wine has 6% Cabernet Franc blended in. Possessing an ultra deep core, the wine was sourced from the Loess and Mill Creek Upland vineyards and then was aged 15 months in new and once used French oak prior to bottling. The wine opens with aromas of milk chocolate, black cherry, wild blackberry and roasted figs. The wine has deep flavors of black cherry, milk chocolate, blackberry cobbler, anise, crème de cassis, coffee grounds and hints of wintergreen. This can benefit from at least another year in the cellar, as the fruit needs a bit more time to fully integrate. Drink 2017-2032- 95

2013 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2013 Leonetti Cabernet is another stunning wine from this estate. Tightly wound and extremely firm at this juncture, the Cabernet is a blend of Seven Hills, Loess, Mill Creek Upland, Serra Pedace and Leonetti Old Block vineyards. The wine was aged 22 months in new and used French oak prior to bottling. Superstar winemaker Chris Figgins has crafted a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 7% Malbec. Possessing an ultra deep core, this wine opens with aromatics of roasted figs, black cherry, toffee, black tea and blackberry jam. There are flavors of black cherry, blackberry jam, blueberry compote, black tea, and crème de cassis. Moderately tannic, this massive wine needs at least two years to develop. Drink 2018-2035- 95

2013 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2013 'Reserve' Red Wine is the most exceptional bottling in this impressive range from Leonetti in this vintage. This blend of 81% Cabernet with 11% Petit Verdot and 8% Merlot, which spent 22 months in new and used French oak prior to bottling. The wine has a massive, deep core and possesses some absolutely intoxicating aromatics. This incredible wine begins with aromas of crème de cassis, anise, dark chocolate and black cherries with black olive. The flavors of black cherries, black olive, black tea, mocha and blueberry pie continue to persist on the palate where it offers an absolutely exceptional mouthfeel and texture. Moderately tannic at this time, try to give this impossible to resist wine at least two more years in the bottle to fully develop. A spectacular effort from head winemaker Chris Figgins in crafting this scintillating new release wine. Drink 2018-2037- 97