R. Lopez de Heredia

One of my all time favorite Spanish wineries, R. Lopez de Heredia is one of the famed properties in the La Rioja region. R. Lopez de Heredia was founded in the nineteenth century when French negociants visited the Rioja region to find alternative sources of quality grapes to transform into wine, following their phylloxera epidemic had decimated their vineyards. Don Rafael López de Heredia y Landeta, started his winery in Haro, the capital of the Rioja Alta region. The winery is a stunning older building with one of the coolest wine caves that I have ever seen.

A few years back my visit to R. Lopez de Heredia was one of the highlights of my trip to Spain. The winery even has its own in-house barrel maker as the attention to detail in the wines is unbelievable, R. Lopez de Heredia wines are aged considerably longer than most and they are only sold when the winemaker finds them to be drinking perfectly. Their current releases are more than a decade old.

The new releases from this house were stunning. Look for the 2011 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Vina Cubillo’ Rioja (WWB, 93) which is a killer value that shows wonderful texture and a soft mouthfeel from this warm vintage in Rioja. I was blown away with the new 2008 R. Lopez de Heredia ‘Vina Tondonia’ Rioja Reserva (WWB, 95) which shows tremendous weight and verve despite obvious challenges of the vintage. This is one of the great 2008 wines that I have sampled. Learn more about this famed  winery athttp://www.lopezdeheredia.com Here are the beautiful new wines by R. Lopez de Heredia.

2008 R. Lopez Heredia ‘Vina Tondonia Reserva’ Rioja Blanco- The 2008 R. Lopez Heredia ‘Vina Tondonia Reserva’ Blanco impresses with beeswax tones woven together with cantaloupe, toasty oak and shades of starfruit on the nose. The palate is soft and generous with a wonderful sense of mouthfeel. There is almost a fino Sherry tone to the wine with the strong nutty flavors and fantastic sense of salinity to the wine. Layers of toasty oak wrap around the core of melon, lemon rind and beeswax flavors with dried apricot and salted Marcona almond accents. Complex and delicious in its youth, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2011 R. Lopex de Heredia ‘Vina Cubillo’ Rioja- The 2011 ‘Vina Cubillo’ Rioja is a splendid effort from this under appreciated vintage in La Rioja. Toasty oak combines with the core of red currants, red raspberry and orange rind tones on the nose. The palate is plush, showing a core of sour red fruits with great length and blood orange rind and wild mushroom accents. Seriously good at the nine year mark now, this will continue to cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93 

2007 R. Lopez Heredia ‘Vina Tondonia Reserva’ Rioja- The R. Lopez Heredia ‘Vina Tondonia Reserva’ Rioja was sourced from what was generally a challenging, low-yielding vintage in Rioja, that was somehow rated ‘very good.’ The wine is a gorgeous blend of Tempranillo (75%), Garnacho (15%), Graciano and Mazuelo (10%) that was aged for six years before bottling. Needing an hour in the decanter to fully evolve, the ‘Vina Tondonia Reserva’ shows pretty red cherry cordial and wild blackberry tones that are woven together with dark licorice, pencil shavings and suggestions of wild mushroom that all take shape in the glass. The palate is round and generous, showing really good range from menthol to black cherry compote, Umami and suggestions of red bell pepper with Mandarin orange rind undertones that sing in unison. The freshness and verve of the wine that combine with the weight seriously impresses. Every bit outstanding, this is amongst the best of the vintage. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2008 R. Lopez Heredia ‘Vina Tondonia Reserva’ Rioja- The 2008 R. Lopez Heredia ‘Vina Tondonia Reserva’ Rioja is a marvelous effort from this challenging vintage in La Rioja. The wine is a complex blend of Tempranillo (75%), and Garnacho (15%), with Graciano and Mazuelo (5%) that was aged for six years before bottling. The wine is might be showing a bit more depth and concentration than the ’07 bottling while the ’07 is slightly more geared towards finesse. Deep white truffle and wild blackberry notes combine with shades of cinnamon, orange rind and sour kirsch on this gorgeous bouquet. The palate is wonderfully viscous and concentrated. Layers of sour red and ark fruits collide with minerals, smoky terroir and shades of blood orange zest and peat moss on this simply gorgeous palate. Rich and layered, yet having a sterling sense of tension, this magical new wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2020-2038- 95

Dutton-Goldfield

Today we share one of the jewels of the Russian River Valley. An outstanding producer of California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Dutton-Goldfield dates back to 1998 when colleagues Steve Dutton and Dan Goldfield decided to start a winery together. Steve Dutton is a 5th generation farmer while Dan has a background in chemistry and later completed the illustrious UC Davis program in winemaking. Dan previously worked at Robert Mondavi Winery and even made wine in Portugal for two years before coming back to California and starting Dutton-Goldfield

For many years I have enjoyed tasting at this Russian River Valley outpost. I have been consistently impressed with what they produce for the price and have enjoyed Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnays many years. The wine consistently strikes a balance between opulence and poise. The new release wines were gorgeous. Look for their 2018 Dutton-Goldfield  ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which shows a wonderful range of flavors and aromatics with a plush mouthfeel. Their 2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which has awesome depth and earthy tones. Learn more about Dutton-Goldfield at http://www.duttongoldfield.com. Here are the great new releases from Dutton-Goldfield. 

2019 Dutton-Goldfield Rose- Sourced from the Sonoma Coast AVA, the wine leads with rose water and shades of guava and lemon zest that all sing in the glass aromatically. The palate is fresh, lively and juicty, with an awesome degree of texture. With great length and acidity, this beautiful wine is best enjoyed in the short-term. Drink 2020-2024- 91

2109 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch, Shop Block’ Pinot Blanc- The 2019 ‘Shop Block’ Pinot Blanc shows layers of green apple and cantaloupe with a wonderfully bright acidity. The creamy texture and long finish accentuates this beautiful, one of a kind, bottling. Drink 2020-2025- 92

2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay- Ripe and beautifully textured, the 2018 Dutton Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay follows an exceedingly good long line of these releases. Layers of vanilla creme brulee, nectarine rind, buttered Macadamia nut and damp earth tones all artfully combine in the glass. Sensational to enjoy in its youth, the 2018 ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay will cellar well for at least another decade, picking up nutty and earthy tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2018 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from one of the great collection of vineyards in the Russian River Valley, the 2018 ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir shows bright strawberry and cran-pomegrante with cola tones on this expressive nose. The palate has wonderful verve and astringency with layers of pretty red fruits, with rose water, orange rind and cola and damp earth accents. The length of the wine accentuates this beautiful new bottling that is best enjoyed in the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Rochioli Vineyards

A legendary producer of California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Tom Rochioli traces his family heritage back to some of the area’s first plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1959 his father and grandfather planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc which was a great learning experience. The Cabernet did not grow well at the location and was pulled out in the 1970s. However, the Sauvignon Blanc planted remained a resounding success. Today these same vines are still in production and are considered some of the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines in California. Inspired by the wines of Burgundy, Tom’s father planted Pinot Noir in 1968, as he likened the cool climate to Burgundy.

The Rochiolis began selling their grapes to Bynum winery in the 1970s and then later Williams Selyem in the 1980s but Tom was inspired to make his own wines. Then in 1987 they released their first estate wine. He also has been selling Chardonnay to David Ramey for several years. Utilizing a minimalistic style of winemaking, Rochioli focuses on individual blocks of wine that show subtle differences in fruit and terroir. They have crafted some incredible new wines across the board. I love their 2018 Rocholi ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which punches above its weight class for the price. Look to their outstanding 2018 Rochioli ‘River Block’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) which shows good opulence and a wonderful veil of tension and minerality. Just as good was their utterly sensational 2018 Rochioli ‘Little Hill’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which has great weight and amazing flavor and aromatic range. Learn more about this famed estate at http://www.rochioliwinery.com Here are the great new wines by Rochioli. 

2018 Rochioli ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Russian River Valley’ Chardonnay by Rochioli shows lovely nutty and earthy tones that combine with melon and ripe pear tones on the nose. The palate is soft and round with a great sense of acidity and mouthfeel. The length of the wine provides the wonderful crescendo as this is not only bright but has a really good sense of weight and balance. Gratifying to enjoy in its youth, the 2018 Rochioli ‘Russian River Valley' Chardonnay has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Rochioli ‘Sweetwater’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Sweetwater’ Chardonnay is another gorgeous effort by this famed Russian River Valley outpost. Once on the nose the damp earth aromatics combine with honeydew melon and shades of butterscotch and lemon zest on this evocative bouquet. The palate is round and generous, showing great acidity, weight and mouthfeel. Seamless, effortlessly gliding across the mid-palate, the combination of weight, salinity, elegance and acidity is sensational here. Great to enjoy in its youth, the 2018 ‘Sweetwater’ Chardonnay will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2018 Rochioli ‘River Block’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘River Block' Chardonnay is a stunning new effort from Rochioli. On the nose shades of wet stone and wild mushroom artfully meld with the core of orchard fruits and creme brûlée tones that all sing in unison in the glass. The palate has gobs of acidity with a silky mouthfeel and wonderful veil of tension. Bright lemon zest combines with vanilla cream, ripe pineapple and mango tones, with light salinity and nutty accents. A complete wine, the 2018 ‘River Block' Chardonnay is thrilling to enjoy in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2018 Rochioli ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir-  The 2018 ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir by Rochioli is another gorgeous effort from his storied estate. On the nose this takes on sour red cherry with loganberry tones alongside baking spices and shades of black truffle aromatics that build in the glass. The palate is soft, round and generous, delivering a silky mouthfeel and layers of bright red fruits with sassafras, peat moss and cola tones. Complex and downright delicious to savor in its youth, the 2018 ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir will cellar well over the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2018 Rochioli ‘Sweetwater’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Sweetwater’ Pinot Noir is a sensational effort by Rochioli. Orange zest, umami, red currants and shades of teaberry all mingle on the nose. The palate is seamless as the wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Layers of ripe red fruits are woven together with forest floor and cola tones, with suggestions of white truffle salt. Mesmerizing to enjoy even at this stage, the combination of weight, acidity and tension suggests this beautiful wine will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2018 Rochioli ‘Little Hill' Pinot Noir- One of the great Pinot Noirs from California that I have sampled over the past year, the 2018 Rochioli ‘Little Hill’ is a thrilling joyride from start to finish. Salted pomegranate seed and rose water tones combine with raspberry coulis and damp earth tones on this beautifully perfumed nose. The palate is utterly seamless as layers of bright red fruits mingle with umami, orange rind and salted charcuterie tones. A complete wine, this gorgeous new effort will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2038- 95

Côte Bonneville

One of the historic vineyards in Washington State, the DuBrul Vineyard was planted by some great people in Washington wine, Dr. Hugh and Kathy Shiels. This incredible vineyard has both Bordeaux varietals, as well as Syrah, Chardonnay and Riesling planted and utilized for their winery, Côte Bonneville. The Shiels daughter, Kerry, is one of the great winemakers in Washington. Kerry received her Masters degree in Viticulture and Enology from U.C. Davis, then assumed the winemaker title in August, 2009. She has been immersed in DuBrul Vineyard and Côte Bonneville since 2005, under Stan Clarke’s tutelage and Co Dinn’s mentorship. 

She has crafted another gorgeous set of wines. I love her 2019 Côte Bonneville Riesling (WWB, 92) which comes from very old vines on the property and is truly one of the best in the state. I adored the new 2017 Côte Bonneville Chardonnay (WWB, 94) shows such a wonderful sense of mouthfeel with a great tension. Learn more about this outstanding Washington winery at http://www.cotebonneville.com Here is the outstanding new lineup by Côte Bonneville. 

2019 Côte Bonneville Riesling- The petrol notes on the nose really impress as pear and starfruit with baking spice tones all come into place. The palate shows great viscosity and tension with slightly sweet, Kabinette style Japanese pear and kiwi tones with shades of gooseberry that all mingle in the glass. With great length, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next decade, as Kerry Shiels has pulled off another impressive new Riesling bottling. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Côte Bonneville Chardonnay- Sourced from their estate DuBrul Vineyard in the Yakima Valley, the 2017 Côte Bonneville Chardonnay is nothing short of a magnificent effort by superstar winemaker Kerry Shiels. Once on the nose, layers of creme brûlée  and ripe banana collide with smoky undertones and shades of nectarine rind, with citrus rind accents on this evocative bouquet. The palate is silky smooth, showing a seamless sense of texture and mouthfeel. They exceedingly long finish continues to impress, as this elegant and rich wine, with a strong veil of tension, has a long life ahead of it. This is truly one of the best of its kind in Washington. Drink 2020-2030- 94

 2016 Côte Bonnevile ‘Train Station’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Train Station/ by Cote Bonneville is a sensational value for a mere twenty five dollars. Blackberry compote and red bell pepper are woven together with shades of baking spices, mocha and tar on the palate. Showing great balance and poise, this beautiful wine is great to enjoy in its youth and has some cellaring potential based on the stuffing and acid backbone. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2015 Côte Bonneville ‘Estate’ Syrah- Sourced from this warm vintage that saw some severe heat spikes, the 2015 Cote Bonneville Syrah is a really great wine from this cooler site in the Yakima Valley. Tea leaf, smoked brisket and blueberry pie tones all combine marvelously on the palate. Soft and round, with great length, this elegant yet rich 2015 Syrah will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2013 Côte Bonneville ‘Carriage House’ Red Wine- An utterly fantastic, soft blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the 2013 Côte Bonneville ‘Carriage House’ Red Wine is a sensational wine now at the seven year mark. The lovely herbal tones are woven together with shades of Yakima cherry and shades of tar on the nose. The palate is soft, round and generous, giving off a seamless effect. Ripe red cherry cordial and cigar box tones mingle with baking spices, red bell pepper and sweet pipe tobacco on the palate. Absolutely gorgeous now, this outstanding 2013 ‘Carriage House’ has at least another decade left. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2012 Côte Bonneville ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Red Wine- I have always admired how Côte Bonneville ages their wines. Now released after eight years, the 2012 Côte Bonneville ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Red Wine is a masterclass by Kerry Shiels. A blend 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, this opens with cloves and herbal undertones that mingle with black currants, coffee grounds and boysenberry cordial on this fantastic nose. The palate is deep and gratifying with its soft texture and tremendous sense of mouthfeel. A light veil of salinity falls on the core of dark fruits with chocolate covered espresso bean and pipe tobacco tones on the palate. With great length and elegance, this beautiful wine will have a long life ahead of it in the cellar. Drink 2020-2035- 94

Corison

It took me a few moments to process that I was sitting across (albeit virtually) from one of the great winemakers of the world, Cathy Corison. Cathy became a winemaker when there were so few female head winemakers and I can’t help but being so incredibly touched for all she has done for female winemakers across North America. Before turning 30 she was named as head winemaker for Chappellet, making sensational, terroir-driven Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc under Napa pioneer Dom Chappellet. Cathy was a trailblazer, a true icon, and I enjoyed every minute of our conversation and tasting.

2017 was not an easy vintage for most people in Napa. “Of course we had the fires” said Cathy, “But I was really pleased with our wines that have the signature floral tones.” I commented that the floral tones her wines are known for have added a bit something special to the overall presentation of the wines. Her wines from 2017 offer beautiful finesse, deftly walking the tightrope between dense and poised. Her 2017 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) is dense and layered without being heavy. The terror and floral tones are simply outstanding. I was even more enamored by the sinfully good 2017 Corison ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which shows more power and deep rich black fruits with gorgeous non fruit flavors. This is a seamless effort that is perfect for any serious collector of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. One of my industry friends chimed in during my conversation with Cathy, asking about her 2001 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon which he adored (and I as well). “That is my favorite Corison wine” Cathy proclaimed. “I am due for a revisit,” I retorted. In post-coved America it was moments I shared with Cathy Corison that make human connections even more significant to me. It was an honor speaking with her, someone I truly revere for our industry. Here are my reviews of the new Corison wines. 

2017 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new wine by famed Napa vintner Cathy Corison. Needing a one hour decant, immediately you are drawn to the high-toned red rose petal aromatics, woven together with tar, anise and creme de cassis tones on this evocative bouquet. The pretty and heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more delight. Once on the palate silky, elegant tannins line the core of dark fruits with shades of coffee grounds, loamy terroir and violets intermingling. The length, finesse and softness of the wine really impresses, as this downright awesome effort will cellar well for many decades to come. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2017 Corison ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Planted in 1971 on St. George rootstock, the ‘Kronos Vineyard’ is one of the older vineyards still standing which is known for its tiny, concentrated berries. This benefits from a one hour decant, as the ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon takes the lead with gorgeous violet rose petals and orange blossom tones that mingle with asphalt, black cherry cordial and mocha tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is silky smooth, as this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Rich layers of creme de cassis, anise, violets and tar all impress without being heavy or over-concentrated. This is Napa elegance at its best as the gorgeous 2017 ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for more than twenty years. Drink 2021-2040- 96

2017 Corison ‘Sunbasket Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The ‘Sunbasket Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is another stunning wine by Cathy Corison. Bright red fruits connect with shades of dark chocolate shavings, red bell pepper and exotic spices on this beautiful bouquet. The palate is extremely elegant and soft, delivering a core of red and dark fruits with mocha and graphite tones alongside shades of wintergreen. Showing great length, this medium-bodied effort will cellar well for the next fifteen years. Absolutely worth nothing that this shows even more splendidly on the second day. Drink 2021-2035- 95

Bodegas San Roman

One of the great wines of the world, ‘San Roman’ is produced from a tiny region in Spain, Toro. The region has an amazing history and is located in the province of Zamora, as part of Castile and Leon. Located northwest of Madrid, the region is relatively high elevation (2400 feet) and produces some of the finest Tempranillo wines of the world. Toro is also an ancient place, first conquered by Hannabal in 220 BC and the town was not repopulated until more than ten centuries later.

The wines of Toro were so famous that Christopher Columbus brought them on his journey to America. Toro is an extreme continental climate with very cold winters and very hot summers in which temperatures can eclipse 100 degrees. The wines from Toro are bold and intense. They are also some of the great bargains on the world wine market. 

Bodegas San Roman produces what is one of the most famous Toro wines, its ‘San Roman.’ The winery was founded by famed winemaker, Mariano Garcia, in 1998 as Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos. In the late 1990s his two sons Alberto and Eduardo joined the team, as director of operations and technical director respectively. They own 100 hectares of vineyards in the villages of Villaester, San Roman de Hornija, Morales de Toro and Pedrosa del Rey. The vineyards are primarily planted to Tinta de Toro, a local clone of Tempranillo. 

Eduardo Garcia presides over the winemaking now as the winemaking style has moved towards combining freshness and richness. I have been absolutely enchanted by this wine since I first tried it while in graduate school more than a decade ago. The combination of richness and poise was just amazing to me. The wine can be quite powerful but maintains an amazing sense of poise and terroir. Simply put, it is one of the great wines of the world. The new release, the 2016 Bodegas San Roman ‘San Roman’ Toro (WWB, 94) is another sensational release that has terrific richness, verve and tension. This is one for the cellar that really can benefit from another year or two. For those who love wines that combine good richness and terroir, this is right up your alley. Learn more about this famed property at https://www.bodegasanroman.com Here is my review of the 2016 Bodegas San Roman ‘San Roman’ Toro. 

2016 Bodegas San Roman Toro- The 2016 Bodegas San Roman Toro follows the really impressive line of San Roman wines over the past decade. Needing a two hour decant to fully evolve, once on the nose you are impressed by the intensity of not only massive dark fruits but non-fruit aromatics of tar, sandalwood and leather that combine with shades of damp earth. The palate is plush, with silky tannins and toasty oak that are artfully woven into the core of blackberry cobbler, blueberry cordial, mocha, and creosote tones. Showing a great feeling of range, with vibrant acidity, a light dusting of salinity and excellent weight, the 2016 Bodegas San Roman Toro will enjoy an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2038- 95

FIGGINS

Sometimes after I taste a wine I’m immediately compelled to post on the wine the next day. As we near the closing of another Washington Wine Month, we bring to you a great Washington winery that needs little introduction. Figgins Estate is devoted to one vineyard which was largely planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Spearheaded by eminent Washington vintner, Chris Figgins, Figgins Estate makes only three wines each year, a Riesling, a left bank Bordeaux style wine and their ‘Figlia’ which is a new wine that brilliantly combines Merlot and Petit Verdot. The scenic vineyard is set against the Blue Mountains and is set in the far east corner of the Walla Walla Valley at 1750 feet. It is not surprising that this vineyard receives massive diurnal shifts. Starting with the inaugural 2008 vintage, the quality of the wines has seemingly improved with each vintage. 

Chris Figgins has a longstanding history in the Washington wine industry but has unusually been keeping somewhat under the radar over the past several years. His Leonetti and FIGGINS wines have been seriously sensational across the board. Speaking with him and tasting with him, I can tell how excited he is to have both programs really dialed in. The aging potential of his Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon wines as I found in my Decanter article is really impressive  I absolutely love the new 2017 FIGGINS Red Wine (WWB, 95) which is up there with the best FIGGINS releases I have tasted. The combination of freshness, verve, complexity and texture is utterly sensational as this is not to be missed by any serious collector of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://www.figginswine.com Here are the outstanding new FIGGINS red wine to be released Fall 2020 by Figgins Estate.

2017 FIGGINS Red Wine- A proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot, the 2017 Figgins Red Wine is another scintillating new release by famed Washington winemaker Chris Figgins. Once on the nose the green bell pepper tones from the Petit Verdot immediately grasp your attention, as spicy aromatics combine with the deep core of kirsch, cassis and milk chocolate tones all march on command. The palate is just as complex, showing a generous mouthfeel and wonderful sense of place. Layers of creosote, Black Forest Cake, green bell pepper and espresso bean flavors all marvelously combine on the palate. With a seamless texture and glorious length, with great freshness, this simply captivating effort is fantastic to savor in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment for the next two decades. Be sure to give this a long decant if enjoying over the next several years. Drink 2021-2040- 95

Fidelitas

As we continue Washington Wine Month we share the story of one of the outstanding wineries on Red Mountain. It has now been several years since I have written about the wines of Fidelitas. I was honestly quite perplexed why these wines were not sent to me for several years as I have always been impressed with the winemaking prowess of Charlie Hoppes. I fondly recall speaking to him shortly after he launched his great modern facility on Red Mountain as he was thrilled with the site and the planting of his new vineyard.  

I found it no surprise that his new release wines from 2017 are consistently great across the board.. Over the years Fidelitas has gained national acclaim for their terroir driven red and white wines. A beautiful and modern facility that was created by superstar winemaker, Charlie Hoppes, former head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle. Prior to working at Chateau Ste. Michelle, he attended the world renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California, Davis and in 1988 he graduated with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a special emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. After a brief stint in Walla Walla in 1990 at Waterbrook Winery, he began working with superstar winemaker Mike Januik as a member of the winemaking team at Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. In 1993, he became the Head Red Winemaker and managed Ste. Michelle’s newest facility at the time, Canoe Ridge near Paterson, Washington. Hoppes had the pleasure of making the first vintages of Col Solare, from 1995-1998. After some time, Hoppes wanted to start his own project.

Hoppes finally decided to purchase some land on Red Mountain, founding Fidelitas in 2000 -- and has produced fantastic reds and whites since that time. Fidelitas is known for their red and white Bordeaux blends, as well as their rich Cabernets. 

I was highly impressed with their range of new release wines. A wine that continues to impress each year is their 2017 Fidelitas ‘Optu Red Wine’ (WWB, 92) which is dense and chewy with great tobacco and chocolate tones. I absolutely love the 2017 Fidenitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec (WWB, 93) which is deeply concentrated and has a great veil of tension and light dusting of white pepper. Learn more about the great Fidelitas lineup at http://www.fidelitaswines.com/ Here are the great new wine releases from Fidelitas.

2017 Fidelitas ‘Optu’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Optu’ is a beautiful blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc mainly sourced from The Canyons Vineyard (53%). Aged in 42% new French oak, this opens with sagebrush and kirsch tones that are woven together with sweet pipe tobacco and shades of dark chocolate cake on this expressive bouquet The palate is elegant and shows a great dimension of minerality. Layers of dark fruits artfully combine with the earthy and smoky undertones of the wine, with espresso bean accents. Great to enjoy in its youth, be sure to give this an hour in the decanter prior to consumption now. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2017 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Merlot- Chocolate covered red cherry, tobacco leaf and damp terroir all marvelously combine aromatically in this Red Mountain Merlot. The palate shows depth and concentration, but has a weightless energy. Layers of dark chocolate shavings, cassis, coffee grounds and smoke collide with a great err of tension mouthfeel and weight. The long finish really impresses as this is a sensational effort by mastermind Charlie Hopppes that has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous new wine by Fidelitas. Aged for 22 months in 50% new French oak, the wine shows great depth and weight, with a nice feeling of elegance. Ripe dark currants meld with chocolate and tobacco tones on the palate. Gorgeous already at he three year mark, this has a long way to go. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec- The 2017 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec was aged in 42% new French oak for 22 months before bottling. Violets and creme de cassis mingle with shades of white pepper on this evocative nose. The palate is silky smooth throughout with layers of dark cherry cordial, blueberry compote, and suggestions of Black Forest Cake, giving this a feeling of decadence. Delightful to savor now, the 2017 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec will cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 Fidelitas ‘Blackwood Canyon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Fidelitas ‘Blackwood Canyon Vineyard’ is another utterly gorgeous wine by Charlie Hoppes. Mocha and exotic spices with shades of sage and black currant jelly all combine on the nose. The palate is deep and wonderfully concentrated. Layers of dark fruits and smoky undertones combine with chocolate and baking spices on the palate. With great depth and richness, this will cellar well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2017 Fidelitas ‘Fidelitas Estate Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- I fondly recall visiting Fidelitas when it first opened and chatting with Charlie Hoppes about his new vineyard on Red Mountain more than a decade ago. Deep kirsch and blackberry cordial tones with sagebrush and scorched earthy tones all marvelously combine on the nose. The palate is silky smooth with a soft mouthfeel and wonderful viscosity, tension and length. Powerful, yet well-balanced, this gorgeous effort will cellar well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2020-2035- 93

Prospice Wines

As we continue on through Washington Wine Month, we share a great new producer out of Walla Walla. Prospice Wines was founded by Jay Krutulis and Matt Reilly. They both have quite diverse backgrounds. Jay studied Biology in college and Neuroscience in graduate school before embarking on nearly 20 years of studying and practicing corporate law. Jay's entry into law was inspired by visits to Woodinville area while working for Amazon. He is a graduate of the Walla Walla Community College Enology & Viticulture Program at Walla Walla Community College and has served as cellarmaster for Tranche. Matt lived in Spokane and worked harvests for Barrister Winery, and after a cross country stint moved back to eastern Washington where he also graduated from the WWCC Enology and Viticulure program. Matt has worked at Mark Ryan Winery and has served as cellarmaster at Gramercy Cellars. The winery sources from some exciting vineyards including Les Collines, Resurgent and Gamache Vineyards. 

I really enjoyed the 2018 releases by Prospice. Check out the 2018 Prospice Wines ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which has great earthy terroir with smoky and earthy tones. Even better was their 2018 Prospice Wines ‘Resurgent Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 93) which has light stony tones and shows really good aromatic and flavor range Learn more about this exciting new winery at https://prospice.wine Here are they great new wines by Prospice Wines. 

2018 Prospice Wines ‘Les Collines Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2018 Prospice Wines 2018 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah  is an awesome new bottling that includes 5% Viognier. The wine underwent 50% whole cluster fermentation and was entirely aged in neutral barrels and puncheons for sixteen months before bottling. Layers of smoke and dried herbs combine with shades of cocoa powder and dusty terroir on the nose. The palate is elegant, showing both great weight and concentration. Sour red and dark fruits dance with baking spices, smoky minerals and dried sage on the palate. Complex and delicious to consume in its youth, showing a good degree of mouth-watering acidity right now, this great new wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2018 Prospice Wines ‘Resurgent Vineyard’ Syrah -This Walla Walla Valley vineyard is known for its stony terroir. The wine underwent 50% whole cluster fermentation and also was aged in natural oak and puncheons for sixteen months before bottling. The terroir here is quite apparent. Hoisin sauce and smoky pork shoulder collide with green olive tapenade and charcuterie tones on the nose. The aromatic range is gorgeous. The palate shows a wonderful feel of balance with light stony terroir. The flavor range is gorgeous from bacon fat to wild blackberry cobbler and smoky tones. Great to enjoy now, the 2017 ‘Resurgent Vineyard' Syrah will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Propsice Wines ‘Alder Ridge Vineyard’ Mourvedre - This wine has a touch of Les Collines Vineyard Syrah blended in, as this underwent  33% whole cluster fermentation and was aged for sixteen months in neutral oak before bottling. Smoked brisket and tar tones collide with the core of dark kirsch and chocolate cake tones on the nose. The palate has great freshness and mouthfeel with layers of dark fruits and mocha tones with sagebrush and menthol accents playing second fiddle. With good length and richness. The 2017 ‘Alder Ridge Vineyard’ Mouvedre will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Prospice Wines ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon - The 2017 Prospice Wines ‘Seven Hills Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 95% Seven Hills Vineyard Cab Sauv, with a small portion of Golden Ridge Vineyard Merlot and Quinn Ranch Vineyard Petit Verdot. Aged in 48% neutral oak, this begins with blackberry compote and mocha tones with dried herbs and tobacco leaf on this expressive bouquet. The palate is soft, around and generous. Layers of black currants, dark chocolate shavings, tar, cigar box and blackberry cobbler all collide on the palate. With great length and an err of elegance, this beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 92

2017 Prospice Wines ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced almost entirely from the Quintessence Vineyard on Red Mountain, this shows off creosote and anise with blueberry pie on the nose. The palate is deep and decadent with gorgeous deep dark fruits that mingle with chocolate covered espresso bean, tar and graphite tones. The long finish adds to the enjoyment. Fantastic now in its youth, the ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2035- 93

Madeira: Deconstructing One of the World’s Great Wines

I’ll openly admit that I am crazy about great Madeira. The degree of complexity, finesse, tension can be just breathtaking. While I openly admit that this nectar of the Gods is not for everyone, I’ll try to briefly deconstruct this special wine for those who are less familiar. The name ‘Madeira’ is a Portuguese name for a carpenter, from madeira ‘wood’ and is also named after the island of Madeira, which was named with Portuguese madeira ‘timber’ because of the timber that grew there. The island was colonized in the 15th century under the patronage of Prince Henry the Navigator, Joao Goncalves Zarco and Tristao Vaz Teixeira who were all were driven by a storm to the island they called Porto Santo in 1419. Amazingly there is no record of anyone living on this island prior to that time. There are some suggestions that Africans may have come to Madeira, just as the Vikings may have visited. In the fifteenth century the world of refining sugar came to the island to cater to the taste of the Europeans and through the seventeenth century sugarcane production became the island’s primary production. 

Wine had also been produced, but was not nearly as popular as sugarcane production. We do have records of winemaking in Madeira back to the end of the 15th century and also records of preventing wines from spoiling using a neutral grape spirit. During long voyages the wines would be exposed to excessive heat and movement which changed the flavor of the wine. It is likely that this was a catalyst for the current standard of winemaking on Madeira which involves oxidizing the wine through a process of applying heat and also barrel aging the wine. Younger wines are typically crafted by using a method that accelerate the aging process by applying heat in tanks. and the aging potential while the top wines, the colheitas and frasqueiras are produced by the canteiro method. The word"canteiro" comes from the traditional supporting beams on which the oak casks are placed. This process involves the ageing of the wines in casks for a minimum period of 4 years stored under the rafters of warm attics, exposed to the natural warmth of the sun that gently heats the wine.

Wines storing in the canteiro method.

Wines made in the “canteiro” system are stored in casks by variety name and vintage under old rafters at the lodge. These casks are warmed by the tropical climate and evolve to be highly concentrated. The wines are slowly moved down from the top to cooler temperatures. Because of these methods of production these wines are very long lived and those produced by the canteiro method will survive for decades and even centuries, even after being opened. Wine are typically made in the style of being either dry, medium-dry, medium-rich and rich. All wines are typically between 17 and 21% alcohol. Some varietals used include Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, Bual, Malmsey, and Tinta Negra. 

I recently had the chance to review wines from two top Madeira producers, including some wines aged back to the 1960s. I am honestly quite floored by the overall quality of both producers which are wines that all have some tremendous cellaring potential and will certainly live beyond my years. A downright killer value is the Cossart Gordon 5 Year ‘Bual’ Madeira (WWB, 92) which has amazing depth and concentration with excellent length. Similarly good was the Cossart Gordon 10 Year ‘Verdellho Medium Dry’ Madeira (WWB, 93) showing incredible verve and wonderfully salty tones. I was crazy for the  1997 Miles Madeira (WWB, 94) which has everything from tar to menthol tones and great richness and depth. The best wines that I tried were older wines from the 1980s and 1960s. Simply stunning is the 1987 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira (WWB, 95) which is viscous, rich and has an incredible veil of tension. Even better was the 1962 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira (WWB, 97) which was finally bottled in 2015 and shows a mind-bending cornucopia of aromatics and flavors. Here are my tasting notes from the recent releases by Cosstart Gordon and Miles Madeira. Learn more about these wines and region at https://www.winesofportugal.com/

Cossart Gordon

Cossart Gordon ‘Rainwater Medium Dry’ Madeira- The ‘Rainwater Medium Dry’ Madeira is a sensational effort that has a soft sense of mouthfeel and beautiful texture. Slightly sweet, this shows peaches and maraschino cherry tones with hints of mixed nuts and caramel. Drink 2020-2027- 90

Cossart Gordon 5 Year ‘Sercial’ Madeira- Lovely melon and Marcona almond tones combine with shades of pink grapefruit blossom on the nose. The palate is dense with great length and tension. Layers of salted Macadamia nut and buttercream follow with incredible viscosity and verve. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Cossart Gordon 5 Year ‘Malmsey’. Madeira- Sour red fruits dance with cloves and ripe figs with toffee tones on the nose. The palate is beautifully viscous with medium sweet red fruits, creme brûlée and leather tones with Madaamia nuts. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Cossart Gordon 5 Year ‘Bual’ Madeira- Complex and soft on the mouth, the wonderful length and richness of the wine entices. Salted caramel and pineapple tones mingle with quince and Marcona almond on the palate. Showing good sweetness and a light salinity, this is a perfect pairing for French vanilla ice cream. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Cossart Gordon 10 Year ‘Verdellho Medium Dry’ Madeira- The 10 Year ‘Verdelho Medium Dry’ Madeira was aged in American oak casks in the traditional ‘Canteiro’ system. Over the years the wine is transferred from the top floors to the middle floors and eventually to the ground floor where it is cooler. After this gradual ‘estufagem’ the wine underwent racking and fining before the blend was assembled and bottled. Salted almond tones combine with suggestions of toffee, quince and apricots on the nose. The palate has great freshness and viscosity with outstanding length delivering melon, salted toffee and pineapple tones. Drink 2020-2035- 93

Cossart Gordon 10 Year ‘Malmsey’ Madeira- The 10 Year ‘Malmsey’ Madeira shows pretty red fruits with toffee and brioche with baking spices on the palate. With great length and viscosity, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 91

Cossart Gordon 15 Year ‘Bual’ Madeira- The 15 Year ‘Bual’ Madeira is a sinfully good wine that was grown on the southern slopes of the island. Ripe honeydew melon and sour red raspberry tones combine with marzipan and toffee on the palate. Outstanding for its length and viscosity, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2038- 93

2005 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira- This gorgeous Madeira from 2005 is a thrilling effort now at the fifteen year mark. Sour red fruits and candied ginger combine with shades of coffee grounds and toffee on the nose. The palate is complex and delucosu with bright acidity and layers of toffee, salted Macona almond, sour cherry and orange marmalade With outstanding length and texture, this beautiful wine is simply stunning now and has many years to go. Drink 2020-2033- 93

1997 Cossart Gordon ‘Single Harvest’ Madeira- Following the canteiro process, this wine  was aged in American oak casks for 14 years and in a cooler part of the chateau before being bottled in 2012. Lovely nutty and peat moss tones combine with shades of cantalope, and vanilla creme brûlée on the nose. The palate is vibrant and fresh, delivering slightly sweet flavors of quince, candied ginger, and salted Marcona almonds along with its toffee undertones. Fresh and rich, with great length, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2035- 93

1989 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira- An untterly sensational Madeira, the 1989 ‘Bual’ was aged for 29 years in seasoned American oak casks in the traditonal ‘Canteiro’ system before bottling in 2018. Complex brandy soaked cherry and orange rind aromas are woven together with wintergreen, quince and salted toffee tones on the nose. The palate shows great length and richness, with incredible depth and concentration. Honeydew melon and salted Macadamia nut tones meld with minerals, peat moss, brandy soaked pear and shades of sour pineapple on this evocative palate. The extraordinary, one minute long finish, provides the resounding crescendo. Gorgeous to enjoy now at the thirty one year mark, the 1989 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira will enjoy at least another two decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2040- 95

1987 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira- The 1987 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira is a sensational bottling that is now showing beautifully at more than thirty years of age. The ‘Bual’ was aged for 29 years in seasoned American oak casks before bottling in 2016. Layers of orange marmalade, nutmeg infused brioche and bright red fruits with toffee aromatics take shape in the glass. The palate is deep, viscous and downright delicious. The length and. Tension of the w wine is utterly profound as layers of salted caramel, sour red cherry cordial, roasted hazelnuts and Mandarin orange rind all come together in the glass. Outstanding now, this has many years to go. Get ready for the exceedingly long finish. Drink 2020-2040- 95

1962 Cossart Gordon ‘Bual’ Madeira- Bottled in 2015, the 1962 ‘Bual’ Madeira by Cossart Gordon is an impeccable bottling that is perfect for any serious collector of Madeira. The nose is downright intoxicating with its range from pretty red rose petals and bright guava tones alongside layers of Mandarin orange rind, salted toffee and heavy whipping cream that all march in unison in the glass. The palate is plush, showing an unctuous err with its velvety texture and incredible veil of tension and salinity. Layers of roasted dates, cigar ash, blood orange zest and ripe red raspberry combine with vanilla creme brûlée and quince tones on the palate. The exceedingly long finish really entices, as this beautiful wine is just starting to hit its stride and has decades of drinking enjoyment left. Drink 2020-2040- 97

Miles Madeira

NV Miles ‘Secco Madeira Dry’ Madeira- Nutty tones give way to buttercream and toasted apricots on the palate. Showing good freshness and viscosity, this has at least another decade left. Drink 2020-2030- 90

NV Miles ‘Rainwater Medium Dry’ Madeira- The lovely nutty, banana, maraschino cherry and toffee tones impress here with good viscosity and tension, as well as length. Drink 2020-2027- 90

NV Miles ‘Sweet Madeira’ Madeira- Wonderfully unctuous and rich, this shows toffee and quince tones alongside shades of roasted dates on the palate. Drink 2020-2027- 89

NV Miles ‘Medium Sweet’ Madeira- Pretty red fruits combine with shades of salted caramel and roasted dates on the palate. Drink 2020-2027- 89

Miles 5 Year Tinta Negra Madeira- Rich and polished with shades of roasted hazelnuts, sour kirsch and bananas foster tones, this has great length and shows off its round and generous side. Drink 2020-2027- 90

Miles 5 Year Medium Sweet Madeira- Rich and complex, layers of toffee, roasted hazelnut and apricot tones combine with minerals and bright orange rind and red raspberry tones on the palate. Drink 2020-2030- 90

Miles 5 Year Sweet Madeira- Salted Marcona almond and toasty tones combine with shades of nectarine and pineapple on the palate, with light flirty and damp earth accents. Fresh and vibrant, this finishes very long. Drink 2020-2030- 91

Miles 5 Year Rich Madeira- The 5 Year Rich Madeira shows more dark plum and coffee tones with dates and caramel tones. Really good now, this has at least another decade ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 91

Miles 10 Year ‘Dry’ Madeira- The 10 Year ‘Dry’ Madeira has roasted cashew and toffee tones on the nsoe with orange rind and red cherry candy accents. Silky smooth on the palate, layers of caramel and peanut combine with shades of banana and vanilla cream. The excellent finish provides the great crecendo. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Miles 10 Year Madeira- Deeply hued and perfumed, the 10 Year Madeira shows toffee and white rose tones with shades of honeydew melon on the nose. The palate is fresh with great viscosity. Layers of butterscotch and honey combine with the salted Macadamia nut tones on the palate. WIth great length and richness, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2020-2035- 92

Miles 10 Year ‘Malmsey’ Madeira- Richer in tone than the 10 Year Madeira, the ‘Malmsey’ shows roasted fig and butterscotch tones on the nose with shades of salted caramel. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a great veil of tension and viscosity. With great length and persistence, this is a beautiful wine to cellar well for decades. Drink 2020-2035- 92

Miles 15 Year Madeira- The Miles 15 Year Madeira is utterly sensational now at this juncture. Silky smooth on the palate, moderately sweet, this shows toffee, salted caramel, hazelnut and apricot tones with suggestions of cantaloupe on this complex palate. Fantastic at this point, the. 15 Year Madeira has many years of cellaring left. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2008 Miles Madeira- This single harvest bottling shows sour red fruits with citrus rind, peat moss and toasted macadamia nut with toffee tones on the palate. Well-balanced, with a seriously good finish, this 2018 ‘Coheita’ will cellar well for at least another ten years. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2006 Miles Madeira- The 2006 Miles Madeira is another gorgeous ‘Colheita’ bottling from this famed house. Toffee and white raisin with dates all mingle together on the palate. This shows great freshness and balance, with an exceedingly long finish. Gorgeous now, this has at least another ten years to go. Drink 2020-2032- 92

1996 Miles Madeira- The 1996 Miles Madeira is an utterly fantastic wine that has a very long life ahead of it. Layresed with its honey and toffee tones, this has great viscosity and length. Layers of buttercream and apricots with quince notes and shades of menthol all come together seamlessly in the glass. Formidable now at the twenty four year mark, this outstanding Madeira will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2040- 94

1995 Miles Madeiera- Showing off its deep hue, the 1995 Miles Madeira shows buttercream and toasted hazelnut tones aromatically with ripe dark figs and shades of butterscotch. The palate shows a huge range of flavors from blood orange rind to guava, pomegranate seed and ripe pineapple alongside salted Marcona almond. Complex and downright delicious, this beautiful Madeira has a long way to go. Drink 2020-2038- 94

1997 Miles Madeira- The 1997 Miles Madeira is an utterly sensational bottling now at the thirty three year mark by winemaker Francisco Albuquerque. Showing deeper aromatics than the ’95, tar and menthol notes mingle with salted toffee and nutty undertones of the wine. The palate shows incredible freshness, viscosity and salty terroir. Gobs of mouth-watering acidity hit you on the attack with quince, salted Marcona almond, sour cherry, honeydew melon and toffee flavors. Get ready for the exceedingly long finish. Drink 2020-2038- 94

Rocky Pond

After a brief vacation I left Seattle early in the morning to drive over to Chelan County.  Quite a few major developments have been going on at Rocky Pond winery, starting with the hiring of John Ware several months back as president. John had a masterful hand in helping Quilceda Creek become the powerhouse that it is today in American wine. For John, he mentioned that he reveled in a restart somewhere with serious ambition. 

You can see that powerful level of ambition when you set foot at the Double D Vineyard, lined with massive rocks that were taken from their site. “We were very careful about where we planted and we did a soil analysis before building” said Rocky Pond owner David Dufenhorst. Tasting with David, his wife, Michelle, John and winemaker Shane Collins, I saw the great potential for the site, set on the river. You can’t help be impressed with the massive rocks that line their Double D Vineyard. Recently there has been a petition made to have Rocky Pond at a new AVA. The site at Rocky Pond is quite a bit hotter in terms of growing degree days than most other sites in the Lake Chelan AVA — heat units that mirror that of Red Mountain. This is a Dufenhorst family project as David and Michelle plan to have his two daughters be involved in their winery in the future. Finally, a major development on the winemaking side has just taken place with the hiring of Steve Levesque to serve as consulting winemaker. I have reviewed Steve’s wines for many years while he was winemaking at HALL, one of Napa’s premier producers of Cabernet Sauvignon. It will be very intriguing to see his deft hand at work on the winemaking side.

The wines were very good across the board. I really enjoyed the 2019 Rocky Pond Semillon (WWB, 90) which as a great feel of weight and rich melon tones.  The best wine I tried was the 2017 Rocky Pond ‘Statastone’ Red Wine (WWB, 91) which is a full-bodied, rick and smoky rendition that will satisfy and serve well with any rich meats. Learn more about this winery at https://rockypondwinery.com Here are the new release wines by Rocky Pond. 

2017 Rocky Pond Sauvignon Blanc- Light gooseberry and kiwi tones fill the nose. The palate has a soft texture with layers of melon and starfruit flavors with shades of orange zest and wet stone on the palate. This is a bit more geared toward weight. Drink 2020-2025- 88

2019 Rocky Pond Semillon- The 2019 Rocky Pond Semillon shows salty undertones that connect with the mouthfeel and weight. I like the merging of tension and terroir here. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Rocky Pond ‘Clos CheValle’ Syrah - The 2017 ‘Clos CheValle’ has a 6% Viognier co-ferment. The wine takes the lead with smoky tones on the nose with lighter herbal accents alongside the core of dark fruits. The wine shows good richness with light tannins that line the core of dark fruits and chocolate with sagebrush untones. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2017 Rocky Pond ‘Double D’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Double D’ Syrah is sourced from vines planted in 2013. Once on the palate the wine shows dense kirsch and blackberry cobbler flavors with shades of chocolate and tar. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Rocky Pond ‘Stratastone’ Red Wine- The ‘Stratastone’ is a great blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre this shows a nice veil of tension alongside the core of red currants, blackberry compote and licorice, with dark chocolate shavings and a touch of smoke. Enjoy this medium to full-bodied Rhone style wine over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2016 Rocky Pond ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon-A light sense of minerality combines with the  rich core of dark fruits on the palate. Forward and delicious, enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2016 Rocky Pond ‘Double D’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A touch of tobacco leaf and smoke combine with the core of dark fruits on the nose. The palate shows good balance with medium bodied dark fruits with cocoa powder flavors. Drink 2020-2025- 89

HALL

As I sat across from HALL president Mike Reynolds, we had our typical chat about their new lineup, although this time it was over Zoom rather than in person. Tasting through his new wines from the 2017 vintage, I was struck by several things that he had to say. “The biggest thing I remember was less about the harvest and more about just making sure everyone was OK. Our house was threatened in the first three nights and then the fire was about a quarter mile from our house. All sorts of chaos ensued, power outages and the list is long about the excitement.” The fires of Napa in 2017 produced an obviously lasting effect for wineries, not only fearing that they would lose their wineries but they also faced some threats from smoke taint. “We did not make an Atlas Peak or Mount Veeder wine in 2017 because of smoke taint” said Mike. However, he had very strong feelings about 2017 as a vintage — in his mind being particularly great for Cabernet Sauvignon. “I think 2017 was a great vintage. 2014 and 2016 vintages were softer whereas 2013 and 2015  as well as 2017 are more dense expression of Cabernet.” 

As I tasted through these wines, I couldn’t help but be impressed with the overall lineup. I have tasted many Napa red wines from 2017 already and the new HALL releases are as good as anything that I have sampled. Those who follow me know how seldom I give 100 point scores. So far this year I have only awarded two 100 point scores to wines I have reviewed — the first being 2005 Chateau D’Yquem Sauternes and the second now goes to the 2017 HALL ‘Sacrashe Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 100) which is a scintillating joyride from start to finish with some massive aging potential. Once again HALL has crafted a stunning ‘Kathryn Hall’ bottling and their 2017 HALL ‘Kathryn Hall’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 97) is a crazy good elegant and seamless wine that will cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about this famed Napa estate at https://www.hallwines.com Here are the beautiful new wines by HALL.

2017 HALL ‘Ellie’s’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Ellie’s’ Cabernet Sauvignon is named after Craig’s mother and is sourced from more than ten vineyards and is made in a more restrained style. Layers of red bell pepper and coffee grounds are woven together with red cherry and mocha tones on the palate. This has great acidity and mouthfeel, with a good sense of elegance once on the mouth. Cassis and mocha combine with very pretty red fruits on the palate. The tension and acidity really drives this beautiful wine that will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 HALL ‘Eighteen Seventy-Three’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is named after the first year that grapes were planted on their estate in St. Helena. Sourced from roughly twenty vineyards throughout the valley. Espresso bean tones combine with chocolate covered cherry and creme de cassis on the nose. The palate is seamless with great acidity with layers of blue and dark fruits that mingle with chocolate, tobacco leaf and graphite tones. With moderate tannins and a great sense of length, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next two decades. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2017 HALL ‘Bergfeld’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Bergfeld’ is almost entirely sourced from their Saint Helena property which is set on an ancient river bed with well-drained soils. Right away the beautiful floral character on the nose impresses, with blackberry compote, black licorice and shades of anise aromatics that all come together in the glass. The palate is seamless with a soft texture, as this dense yet elegant wine shows gorgeous layers of blackberry pie, mocha, anise and creme de cassis with a great acid backbone. This boasts outstanding length and tension, with a light dusting of sanity. Outstanding to savor in its youth, this beautiful new Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2038- 95

2017 HALL ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a sensational new release by HALL. Gorgeous aromatics of creme de cassis, Turkish coffee, smoke and blueberry compote all collide on the nose. The palate shows off its silky, seductive texture and scintillating length. Layers of black cherry cough syrup, mocha and tar are woven together with sweet pipe tobacco, tar and graphite. The wonderful sense of range here is particularly striking. With great weight and poise, this is a stunning Cabernet Sauvignon that has some serious aging potential. Drink 20021-2045- 97

2017 HALL ‘Stags Leap District’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Stags Leap District’ Cabernet Sauvignon by HALL is another thrilling release that shows power and great terrroir. The downright intoxicating aromatics really entice with creme de cassis, anise, exotic spices and tar tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, giving off an err of decadence and producing a seamless effect. Gobs of moiuth-watering acidity connect with the deep core of dark and blue fruit flavors with cigar box and mocha undertones that sit alongside fine grained tannins. With great depth and elegance, this beautiful new wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Be sure to give this several hours of air if consuming in its nascent phase. Drink 2021-2040- 96

2017 HALL ‘Jack’s Masterpiece’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Jack’s Masterpiece’ is a dense, hedonistic Cabernet Sauvignon that has a long life in the cellar ahead of it. Enticing aromas of creme de cassis, tar, cigar ash and chocolate covered espresso bean tones all sing in unison on the nose. The palate is dense, plush, and downright delicious. Rich black currants dance with mocha, tar, anise, dark chocolate shavings and sweet pipe tobacco tones on the palate. Decadent, yet elegant, with outstanding length and poise, this beautiful wine will cellar well for decades to come. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to give this a two to three hour decant. Drink 2021-2040- 96

2017 HALL ‘Kathryn Hall’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Kathryn Hall’ is a stunning, seamless Cabernet Sauvignon that was sourced from a host of Napa Valley vineyards including their estate Sacrache Vineyard. Mocha, creosote and blueberry compote tones combine with suggestions of sweet pipe tobacco on the nose. The wine has a gorgeous sense of elegance, as the ethereal texture effortlessly makes this glide across the mid-palate. Layers of creme de cassis, blueberry pie, tar and menthol tones all are marvelously woven together on the palate. With great length, weight and poise, this 2017 ‘Kathryn Hall’ is not only sensational to enjoy in its youth but will be one built for long-term aging. Drink 2020-2038- 97

2017 HALL ‘Rainin Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Rainin Vineyard’ is an 8 acre parcel on Diamond Mountain, owned by the Rainin family, entirely planted to Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2017 HALL ‘Rainin Vineyard’ is a barrel selection wine that opens with gorgeous Asian spices and creme de cassis, and red rose petals woven together with mocha, tar, sandalwood and shades of graphite. The palate is seamless and elegant, with its plush texture that effortlessly moves throughout the drinking experience. Firm tannins line the core of blackberry compote and blueberry pie, and Turkish coffee alongside suggestions of tar, black licorice candy and baking spices on the palate. Showing sensational length, weight and a strong veil of tension, the 2017 ‘Rainin Vineyard’ will enjoy a very long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2045- 99

2017 HALL ‘Sacrashe Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The famed ‘Sacrashe Vineyard’ is the HALL estate vineyard located in the hills above Rutherford. I am absolutely enamored by this very special new release Cabernet Sauvignon from 2017 that is one of the finest wines I have sampled over the past year. Once on the nose, the ‘Sacrashe Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows alluring blackberry compote, creme de cassis, mocha and creosote tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, showing incredible depth, concentration and gobs of mouth-watering acidity that makes this particularly gratifying to savor in its youth. Violets and creme de cassis artfully combine with chocolate covered espresso bean, loganberry cordial, blueberry compote, Earl Grey tea, exotic spices on the palate. Tasted over more than one day, this becomes even more complex and delicious. Seamless, rich and elegant, this Napa Cabernet Sauvignon is nothing short of perfection in a bottle. Drink 2020-2045- 100

Lachini Vineyards

An outstanding Oregon house for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Lachini Vineyards has been producing  consistently great wines over the past several years and continues to fly under the radar. With their estate in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, Lachini also has a tasting room in Woodinville as they produce a range of Pinot Noirs — even now crafting one from the ‘La Cruz Vineyard’ in Sonoma. At the helm is winemaker Liz Kelly-Campanale who joined Lachini Vineyards as Winemaker in 2019. 

A fellow Whitman college graduate, she has been making wines in the Willamette Valley for a decade and was formerly assistant winemaker for Edgefield Winery. Originally from Santa Barbara, has s a winemaking degree from the Northwest Wine Studies Center and has crafted a gorgeous range of wines mainly from the 2018 vintage in Oregon that was warm and saw heat spikes during summer, ending with a cooler fall. I absolutely love the 2018 Lachini ‘Al Di La’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which has great depth and concentration with some serious aging potential. Even better was their 2018 Lachini ‘La Cruz Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has a seamless texture and downright awesome terroir. Learn more about this great Oregon estate at lachinivineyards.com Here are the fantastic new release wines by Lachini Vineyards.

2019 Lachini Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, the 2019 Lachini Rose shows orange zest that combines with lighter red fruits on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with layers of red fruits that dance with copious minerals and a soft texture. This is a solid effort. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2018 Lachini ‘Al Di La’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Al Di La’ Chardonnay is another really good effort from this estate. Buttery brioche combines with lemon zest, wet stone and wild mushroom tones on this seriously good nose. The palate is polished with wonderful richness and a seamless texture. The length here really gratifies. Gorgeous in its youth, the 2018 ‘Al Di La’ Chardonnay has a long life ahead of it as this beautifully showcases the warmth of the vintage. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2018 Lachini ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a really good effort from this warm vintage. Juicy red and dark fruits mingle with earthy undertones and wonderfully bright acidity. Seriously good right now in its youth, I can see this cellaring well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Lachini ‘Cuvee Giselle’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Cuvee Giselle’ is a limited production Chehalem Mountains AVA bottling that was aged for fourteen months in roughly 50% new French oak prior to bottling. The palate has a light salinity that falls upon a great sense of volcanic earth, with light tannins and gobs of mouth-watering acidity and a pretty red fruit profile that makes this wine completely irresistible. Enjoy the 2018 ‘Cuvee Giselle’ over the next decade. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2018 Lachini ‘La Cruz Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- One of the unique bottlings in Oregon, this Pinot Noir was sourced from the ‘La Cruz Vineyard’ owned by Keller Estate Winery on a knoll overlooking the Petaluma Gap in Northern California.The vineyard has a massive martime influence from the Coastal range bordering Bodega Bay directly to the West. The blocks from which we sourced this Pinot noir are planted to varying soils & elevations (up to 700’ and down to 150’) on vertical trellis. The palate is soft, round and deeply gratifying as layers of bright red fruits collide with the seamless sense of texture and salty terroir. Showing great length and tension, this outstanding new wine will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2018 Lachini ‘Lachini Family Estate’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Lachini Family Estate’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous new bottling that has some seriously good aging potential. The Pinot Noir is entirely sourced from the 0East, Middle and West Blocks of their estate vineyard, featuring. Pommard, Wädenswil, Dijon 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 and a 'suitcase clone' (L.T.)!!! clones. Once on the mouth the gorgeous sense of mouthfeel and lovely, pillowy texture really entices. Layers of cran-pomegranate, blood orange zest, peat moss and volcanic earth all entice. The combination of weight, texture and acidity all suggest that the 2018 ‘Lachini Family Estate’ will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2020-2037- 94

2017 Lachini ‘La Bestia’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘La Bestia’ shows nice ripeness with a silky texture. Layers of rich roasted figs, blackberry cordial and sagebrush tones combine with lighter flinty and milk chocolate accents on the palate. With good length and texture, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Lachini ‘La Contrada’ Red Wine- A blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot, this shows sagebrush and smoky undertones with cocoa powder and ripe dark fruits on the nose. The palate is rich, with polished tannins that line that core of dark fruits and mocha tones. Delicious in its youth, this has at least another decade ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 92

Valdemar Estates

Everyone’s ears perked up when we received word that Conde Valdemar was considering investing in the Walla Walla Valley. I had long enjoyed these wines which were truly exceptional values out of La Rioja. A few past favorite bottles immediately creeped into my mind, including the gorgeous Conde Valdemar ‘Reserva’ bottlings from both 2005 and 2006 which overdeliver for the price. On several occasions I have had the opportunity to visit Valdemar Estates, Conde Valdemar’s new winery in Walla Walla. Remarkably this is the first non-American owned winery in Washington. With sweeping views across the Walla Walla Valley and gorgeous, modern touches, this is a must visit for wine lovers near and far. They also serve some top notch tapas that are every bit as good as the views. I received a tour by co-proprietor and CEO Jesús Martínez Bujanda Mora, who represents the fifth generation of his family’s 130-year-old wine business. Jesus hired an eminent Washington winemaker to head his project, Marie-Eve Gilla.  

Marie has some serious pedigree on her resume, first coming to the to the United States in 1991, and has previously worked at Argyle, Covey Run, Hogue, Gordon Brothers as well as Forgeron (2001-2019) before coming to Valdemar to serve as head winemaker earlier this year. She has a wealth of experience and I am very excited to see how her wines progress at Valdemar. 

Marie’s 2018 Valdemar Estates ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) is a stunning rendition from this famed vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The layers of toasty brioche and minerality of the wine really entice. I loved the 2018 Valdemar Estates ‘Blue Mountain Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which has really deep dark fruits and great length. Learn more about this special winery project at https://www.valdemarestates.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Valdemar Estates

2018 Valdemar Estates ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘DuBrul Vineyard’ Chardonnay is an awesome wine by the talented Marie-Eve Gilla. The soft texture and wonderfully rich mouthfeel really makes this sing. Layers of toasted brioche and lemon zest combine with melon and wet stone tones on the palate. This is utterly sensational to enjoy in its youth as this beautiful wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Valdemar Estates ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah-They have blended 5% Grenache into this Syrah. Pretty red and dark fruits meld with chocolate and pipe tobacco tones on the nose. The palate has a great vein of tension, delivering full-bodied blackberry compote, black licorice and baking spice flavors. Delicious to enjoy right now, the ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah will enjoy another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2018 Valdemar Estates ‘Blue Mountain Vineyard’ Syrah-The 2018 ‘Blue Mountain Vineyard’ Syrah is a great new wine by Valdemar Estates. The palate shows great poise with a wonderful sense of texture. Layers of espresso bean, blueberry pie and mocha come together with wet stone undertones. Showing good length, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2018 Valdemar Estates ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ Syrah- One of the great sites in the Walla Walla Valley, the famed ‘Stoney Vine Vineyard’ is an unique small parcel of land located in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA. Very light wet stone tones combine with Umami, smoked brisket and bright red fruits on the nose. The palate has great length and texture with a wonderful feeling of balance. While not particularly stony, the lighter wet stone undertones meld well with the core of red and dark fruits, with seaweed and citrus rind undertones. Drink 2020-2028- 93

Archery Summit

One of the longstanding Dundee Hills wineries, Archery Summit has sweeping views of the Willamette Valley and is a must visit for those who have never tasted these beautiful wines. Founded by Pine Ridge Winery baron Gary Andrus, Archery Summit sources from a host of vineyards across the valley, as well as estate fruit. The winery itself is stunning and has one of the most beautiful cave settings in the Pacific Northwest. Archery Summit has more recently dialed back their winemaking style gearing less towards new oak and more towards freshness and a prettier style of Oregon Pinot Noir. 

During IPNC I had the chance to taste nearly every vintage of Archery Summit in 2018 and was floored by the cellaring potential of these wines. A few years ago Ian Burch took over as head winemaker. Ian has some seriously good pedigree coming from Evening Land and I absolutely love his new wines across the board. Ian is humble and knowledgable and has crafted a gorgeous new 2017 Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which has great freshness and tension with a good sense of balance. I loved the 2018 Archery Summit ‘Archer’s Edge’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has great weight and verve from this awesome, warm vintage in the Willamette Valley. Learn more about Archery Summit and their great lineup of wines at http://www.archerysummit.com. Here are the excellent new wines from Archery Summit.

2017 Archery Summit ‘Eola-Amity Hills’ Chardonnay- The nose is highly perfumed with layers of bright Pink Lady apple and nutmeg infused sourdough bread that are woven together with damp earth and wild mushroom tones that all sing in the glass. The palate has great freshness with layers of poached pear and vanilla cream that combine with a wonderful degree of freshness and damp earth tones on the palate. With awesome length, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2018 Archery Summit ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- Really strong bright red fruits with Mandarin orange rind, damp soil and a hint of cola that fall on the nose. The palate is medium bodied with with bright Bing Cherry, strawberry and shades of peat moss on the palate. The balance and richness is gorgeous. Drink 2020-2028- 92

2017 Archery Summit ‘Red Hills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Set on volcanic soils at 360-570 feet elevation, the 23 acre ‘Red Hills Vineyard’ faces south and was first planted back in 1994. The palate is soft, round and generous, with a silky mouthfeel. Bright Bing cherry and citrus rind flavors combine with the teaberry and earthy undertones of the wine. This is simply outstanding by Ian Burch, as the 2017 ‘Red Hills Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Archery Summit ‘Archer’s Edge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Archer’s Edge Vineyard’ was planted in 2007 and also has a southern aspect. On the nose a light dusting of damp volcanic rock brilliantly combines with sour red fruits and hints of tobacco leaf on this evocative bouquet. The palate is bright and downright juicy, with a great sense of minerality and weight. Layers of red fruits dance with citrus rind and forest floor tones on the palate, with lighter black truffle undertones. Seriously good in its youth, the 2017 ‘Archer’s Edge’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for a decade or more to come. Drink 2020-2030- 93

a’Maurice Cellars

As we continue on this great Washington Wine Month we share one of the jewels of Walla Walla, a’Maurice Cellars. A great, limited production family winery, a’Maurice is a nod to Maurice Schafer who built one of the largest and most successful timber companies in the Pacific Northwest. The Schafers, Tom and Kathleen, created the first registered sustainable vineyard in Washington State as Tom Schafer spent several years surveying the Walla Walla Valley, until he found the perfect land for his vineyard — a south-facing parcel located up Mill Creek. The site is simply magical with sweeping views of the valley.

Anna Schafer crafts some seriously good wines and has gained national recognition for her wines. She has some great pedigree previously working for Viña Cobos in both 2006 and 2007. Her winemaking style is very old world as she creates a beautiful sense of astringency with each wine. Her wines are consistently great across the board. I love the 2019 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Sparrow’ Viognier (WWB, 92) which shows off the great tension and range, with great acidity. Her red wines were just as good and I loved the new Owl and Crown’ Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) which is dense and chewy, having some massive cellaring potential. Learn more about this great Walla Walla winery at https://www.amaurice.com Here are the beautiful new wines from a’Maurice Cellars

2019 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Sparrow’ Viognier- Very pretty honeysuckle and kiwi tones collide with suggestions of Mandarin orange zest on the nose. Soft and bright, with great acidity and length, this offers gratifying Japanese pear, starfruit and lemon rind flavors alongside the great sense of mouthfeel and tension. With gobs of mouth-watering acidity in its youth, enjoy this beautiful new Viognier over the next five years. Drink 2020-2025- 92

2018 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2018 ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah is a beautiful effort by the talented Anna Schaefer from this famed site in the Yakima Valley. Once on the nose you are greeted to smoky tones that are woven together with shades of cardamom and the rich core of red and dark fruits. Lightly tannic, the soft sense of mouthfeel really entices as citrus rind and sour red fruits dance with minerals, smoked meats and dusty terroir. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, this beautiful wine has a decade or more ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2018 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Fred’ Syrah- Sourced from their estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley, the 2018 ‘Fred’ Syrah is an awesome new terroir-driven wine by a’Maurice. Right away you notice the dusting of white pepper falls upon tar, bacon fat and shades of violets on this evocative nose. The Syrah shows great verve and sense of tension as beautiful red and dark fruits march on with chocolate, sagebrush and dried herbs on the palate. Beautifully balanced and showing great texture and poise, the 2018 ‘Fred’ Syrah will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Artist Series’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Artist Series’ Red Wine is a blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) and Merlot (38%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc. The herbal tones from the Cabernet Franc seem to be playing first chair, alongside the core of dark fruits and chocolate tones on the nose. The palate is wonderfully balanced with a great sense of texture and tension. Layers of roasted figs, blackberry compote, mocha and tar all come together with the lovely herbal undertones of the wine. Great to savor now at the three year mark, the 2017 ‘Artist Series’ will enjoy another decade or more ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Night Owl’ Red Wine- The a’Maurice 2017 Night Owl is a blend of 56% Merlot with 21% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. The herbal, red bell pepper and deep, concentrated dark fruits from the Petit Verdot really make this blend work, as softer layers of chocolate and black cherry cordial from the Merlot also add to the enjoyment. These working pieces are moving hand in hand. If enjoying in its youth, give the 2017 ‘Night Owl; a long decant. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Amparo’ Malbec- Inky and intensely colored once in the glass, the 2017 ‘Amparo’ leads with potpourri, crushed wet stone, blackberry cordial and blueberry compote tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft, round and generous, giving off an err of decadence. Not only showing wonderful weight, the light tannins and great acidity of this wine really hold things together. The brightness and concentration reminds me of a full-throttle Cahors, as the 2017 ‘Amparo’ will enjoy at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Owl and Crown’ Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon- A barrel select wine, the 2017 ‘Owl and Crown’ shows intense creme de cassis and red bell pepper aromatics woven together with crushed mint, coffee grounds and the deep core of dark fruits. The beautiful bouquet brings you back to the glass for more delight. Once on the mouth you are met with a pillowy mouthfeel, as this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Layers of blackberry compote, black licorice and dark chocolate shavings collide with minerals and the dusty terroir of the wine. Sensational in its youth, be sure to give this a two hour decant before enjoying. Drink 2020-2038- 94

Château de Saint Louis

Today we march on to southern France to share a hidden gem in the Corbiers region. One of the historic sites in the region, Château St. Louis was founded by Martine and Philippe Pasquier-Meunier nearly 30 years ago. Located on the plateau of Boutenac in Corbieres, with 120 hectares of vineyards dating back to the Roman era. Vines are planted in a high density style with little spacing between rows. Château de Saint Louis is set on gravelly soils attract the roots of the old vine plantings of Carignan and Grenache, allowing them to draw minerals and moisture from deep within the earth. This is wonderfully stony terroir that you can really feel in each wine. The low and stony hills are surrounded by pine trees and planted facing south to maximize sun exposure. 

The grapes are harvested, de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel vats for 6 to 9 days. Malolactic fermentation after racking. Each variety is vinified separately before final assemblage.These are wines that totally over-deliver for the price. I love the 2017 Château Saint Louis ‘A Capella’ Corbieres (WWB, 91) which was sinfully good for the price with its core of dark fruits and great terroir. Even better is the generous 2016 Château Saint Louis ‘Boutenac’ Corbieres (WWB, 92) which has wonderful depth and concentration with a great stony edge. Here are my reviews of this beautiful Corbieres estate.

2019 Château de Saint Louis ‘Prestige’ Corbieres Blanc- The ‘Prestige’ Corbieres Blanc is a blend of 70% Bourboulenc with the remainder Marsanne. The freshness is outstanding with gooseberry and pear tones with a soft texture that entices from the Marsanne. With good length and mouthfeel, this is an awesome new wine that has at least another five to seven years ahead of it. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Château de Saint Louis ‘Prestige’ Corbieres- The ‘Prestige’ is forward and juicy with dark currants and smoky tones that mingle with minerals and a touch of white pepper on the palate. Medium-bodied and showing good terroir and fruits, this classy effort is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Château de Saint Louis ‘A Capella’ Corbieres- The 2017 ‘A Capella’ is a blend of 60% Syrah with the remainder Carignan. Rich, with its creme de cassis, stony minerals and smoked pork shoulder tones, this is utterly fantastic to enjoy now but has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2016 Chateau de Saint Louis ‘Boutenac’ Corbieres- I love the 2016 ‘Boutenac’ by Corbieres. Rich, wpndefully stony and full of life, the ‘Boutenac’ has a silky mouthfeel and wonderful complexity and length. Full-bodied and gorgeous in its youth, this outstanding new bottling will cellar well for a decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Brooks Winery

One of the finest producers of Riesling in Oregon, Brooks was founded by Jimi Brooks, a Portland native who came to wine through his passion for history and philosophy. Jimi previously worked in Beaujolais, and eventually returned to Oregon to focus on crafting great Riesling and Pinot Noir. Brooks farms twenty acres in the Eola-Amity Hills, a sub-region of the Willamette Valley characterized by higher altitudes and the ocean winds that blow through the Van Duzer Corridor. Head winemaker Chris Williams has previous stops at Maysara and WillaKenzie prior to becoming Brooks head winemaker in 2005. He has crafted a gorgeous range of Riesling wines.

Chris has a deft touch on white wines and his 2019 Brooks ‘Looson Ridge’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 92) which has a great freshnesss and mouthfeel. has just a touch of sweetness and shows really bright acidity. While his overall lineup of Rieslings were stellar across the board, I was particularly blown away with the 2017 Brooks ‘Bois Joli’ Riesling (WWB, 93) which is one of the great. Willamette Valley Rieslings I have had over the past year. This wine shows incredible terroir and a gorgeous sense of minerality. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.brookswine.com/ Here are the outstanding new wines by Brooks. 

2019 Brooks Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, the 2019 Brooks Rose shows a lively core of bright red fruits with shades of wild mushroom on the palate. Juicy and packed with aciidity, enjoy this over the next few years. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2019 Brooks Picpoul Blanc- the vibrant sense of acidity really impresses here as this outstanding new release shows bright lemon zest and melon tones alongside the great sense of minerality. Fresh and full of life, enjoy this over the next several years while the electricity remains. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2019 Brooks ‘Logsdon Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Gris- Seriously good stuff, you are immediately intrigued by the shades of cardamom infused Japanese pear and brioche fill the nose. The palate is wonderfully juicy with gobs of mouth-watering acidity and a really good sense of mouthfeel. Nicely textured, the ‘Logsdon Ridge Vineyard' Pinot Gris will cellar well over the next eight years, picking up nutty and earthy tones. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2019 Brooks ‘Amycas’ White Wine- A blend of mostly Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Muscat, the ‘Amycas’ is fresh and energetic with bright acidity and layers of melon and green apple tones with orange blossom and rose water undertones. A delightful pairing for shellfish, enjoy this great wine in its youth while the vibrant acidity remains intact. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Brooks ‘Willamette Valley’ Riesling- A quick whiff of petrol brilliantly combines with the lemon zest and orange blossom tones on the nose. Fresh and clean, with great acidity, texture and length, this is just an awesome value that will cellar well over the next seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 Brooks ‘Meyer Vineyard’ Riesling- Sourced from this Dundee Hills AVA site, the 2017 ‘Meyer Vineyard’ Riesling shows a trocken-style tension with great acidity and texture that reminds me of the great GG wines of the Mosel. Brighti green apple and lemon rind flavors mingle with minerals and the light damp earth tones on the palate. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2017 Brooks ‘Hope Well’ Riesling- The 2017 ‘Hope Well' Riesling is another scintillating new release by Brooks. Soft on the mouth, the feeling of weight and tension here is really good. Bright pear and green apple tones combine with shades of white peach and kiwi on the palate. The minerality is truly outstanding as the ‘Hope Well’ will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Brooks ‘Ara’ Riesling- The 2017 ‘Ara’ Riesling is another thrilling effort by one of the North America’s Riesling specialists. This Trocken style wine shows great weight and tension under the core of Gravenstein apple, lemon rind and wet stone tones. The degree of mouth-watering acidity is seriously good. With great elegance and verve, the 2017 ‘Ara’ will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2017 Brooks ‘Vitae Springs’ Riesling- The ‘Vitae Springs Vineyard’ dates back to 1978 and is set on volcanic basalt-Nekia and Jory soils. The feeling of weight and tension is seriously good mid-palate as gobs of acidity and a silky texture greets you alongside the green apple, kumquat zest and petrol tones. A sensational new wine to savor in its youth, the thrilling 2017 ‘Vitae Springs’ Riesling will enjoy a long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 Brooks ‘Bois Joli’ Riesling- Sourced from this Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard set on marine sedimentary and Wilalkenzie soils, the wine shows vibrant acidity with gobs of tension that mingle with the green apple, petrol, kumquat zest and salty undertones of the wine. Completely gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, the combination of acidity and weight suggests this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2017 Brooks ‘Orchard Fold’ Riesling- Medium dry in style, reminiscent of a Kabinett, the brilliant tension and sweetened pear with nectarine and orange blossom tones really entice on the palate. The ‘Orchard Fold’ has an inviting sense of length with a wonderful texture. Outstanding in its youth, this has some really good cellaring potential moving forward. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Brooks ‘Sweet P' Riesling- Moving more into Auslese realm, the 2017 ‘Sweet P’ has a great backing of vibrant acidity that mingles with the sweetened orchid fruits and melon tones on the palate. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Brooks ‘Runaway Red’ Pinot Noir- This red fruit driven 2018 Pinot Noir shows red rose petals wit the bright red fruits on the nose. The palate is forward and delicious with medium-bodied Bing cherry and pomegranate seed accents with raspberry and light earthy tones. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2019 Brooks ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Fresh and forward, this delivers medium-bodied red fruits that dance with light damp earth tones on the palate. Enjoy in its youth while the good sense of freshness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 89

2016 Brooks ‘Janus’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Janus’ Pinot Noir was largely sourced from the Brooks Estate Vineyard as well as a host of vineyards sprinkled throughout the Willamette Valley. Shades of cola with dark fruits and flinty and earthy undertones fill the nose. The sense of texture is great here as this over-delivers with its richness and smooth mouthfeel. This is simply delicious stuff to enjoy over the next eight to ten years Drink 2020-2028- 91

2017 Brooks ‘Rastaban’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Rastaban’ is entirely sourced from the ‘Brooks Estate Vineyard’ located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. While obviously not a big Pinot Noir, the sense of elegance and seamless factor mid-palate is really nice. Bright acidity and a ripe core of red cherry, raspberry and baking spices combine with the lighter earthy tones of the wine. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2016 Brooks ‘Crannell’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Crannell’ Pinot Noir by Brooks is sourced from the ‘Crannell Vineyard’ set in the Eola-Amity Hills and set on various soil types, planted to Pommard, 115, 777 and 667 clones. On the nose the bouquet of damp earth and peat moss combine with the core of red and dark fruits. The palate shows the warmth of the vintage with rich dark fruits with a beautiful sense of length and texture. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 Brooks ‘Big Cheese’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Big Cheese’ is sourced from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, set on volcanic Basalt-Jory and Nekia soils. Aged for eighteen months in French oak, this shows salty and savory tones on the nose with the core of dark fruits and underbrush tones. The palate has a plush texture delivering gobs of red fruits with good acidity and a soft mouthfeel. Enjoy this great wine over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2016 Brooks ‘Old Vine Pommard Clone’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Old Vine Pommard Clone’ Pinot Noir is an earthy masterpiece by Brooks. Aged for eighteen months in French oak this shows lovely black truffle crudo and forest floor tones woven together with wild blackberry and huckleberry tones on the nose. The palate is soft and gratifying, showing gorgeous length and precision, with bright acidity that backs up the earthy tones and citrus rind/red fruit core. I can imagine this cellaring marvelously for fifteen years, picking up more Burgundian tones as it ages Drink 2020-2035- 93

2016 Brooks ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- One of the famed sites in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ is a southern facing vineyard set on Basalt-Jory, Nekia and Ritner soils. Peat moss and forest floor tones combine with shades of Mandarin orange zest, pomegranate seed and red cherry candy aromatics that all build in the glass. Soft, round and gererous this has a silky effect mid-palate. Bright red fruits meld with the orange rind and damp earth tones on the palate. Fantastic to savor right now, the 2016 ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2016 Brooks ‘Sunny Mountain Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-Planted in 2005 the ‘Sunny Mountain Vineyard’ is set on a range of soils and is planted to clones 23, Pommard and 115. Th3 nose evokes exotic spices alongside the core of red fruits and blood orange zest tones. The soft mouthfeel really entices, as does the sense of mouth-watering acidity that builds mid-palate. The length of the wine and great core of red and dark fruits with its earthy tones really all impress. Gorgeous to savor in its youth, this wine has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

2016 Brooks ‘Toluca Lane’ Pinot Noir- This Eola-Amity Hills bottling was aged for eighteen months in French oak. From this southeast facing vineyard set on volcanic basalt-Nekia soils, the wine opens with baking spices that mingle with a core of red fruits and suggestions of orange zest. The soft sense of texture is nothing short of outstanding as the weight and vibrant acidity alongside the great sense of mouthfeel really make this wine sing. Drink 2020-2035- 93

Alexana

Today on WWB we share one of the greats of the Willamette Valley, Alexana. I have been consistently mpressed with their lineup over the past five years as they craft an amazing range of wines from mineral-driven Riesling to earthy Pinot Noirs. Over the years I have found that the consistency of these wines have been remarkable. Alexana was founded many years back by Dr. Madaiah Revana, a famed cardiologist. Named after Dr. Revana’s daughter,  Alexana has a stunning setting in the Red Hills AVA. The winery utilizes both gravity flow and Gold LEED certification. Bryan Weil serves as head winemaker and has greatly impressed with his solid range of new wines. Bryan previously worked at Domaine Serene before heading back to Oregon State University, where in 2008 he graduated with a degree in Enology and Viticulture. Bryan then served as assistant winemaker at Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Washington, prior to being named Alexana winemaker in in 2012.

Bryan has crafted a killer new lineup of wines. Look to his  2017 Alexana ‘Signature’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has awesome poise and motuhfeel, showing some great aging potential. I was blown away with the outstanding 2017 Alexana ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has gorgeous dark fruits and great tension. One of the outstanding efforts I have tried this year, the 2018 Alexana ‘Revana Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is sinfully good, showing opulence and incredible aromatic and flavor range. This is one for any serious collector of Oregon wines. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at http://www.alexanawinery.com Here are the great new release wines by Alexana. 

2019 Alexana ‘Terroir Series’ Pinot Gris- Right away the racy sense of minerality greets you, as layers of Meyer lemon zest, wet stone, Pink grapefruit blossom and unripe cantaloupe all collide on the palate. Fresh and vibrant with a light dusting of salinity, this beautiful wine will be best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2020-2024- 91

2017 Alexana ‘Signature’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Signature’ Chardonnay is another outstanding release by Brian Weil. Golden in color once in the glass, the Chardonnay shows shades of marzipan woven together with lychee, smoky minerals and bright Pazzaz apple tones on the nose. The palate shows a silky texture with an opulent sense of mouthfeel. Layers of Meyer lemon cream and cantaloupe connect momentum with copious minerals and shades of wild mushroom on the palate. Complex and simply delicious in its youth, this outstanding new wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2017 Alexana ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir is another sensational new release by Alexana. Once on the nose, alluring red rose petals with peat moss and forest floor tones combine with the good core of sour red fruits. The combination of tension and texture here really works, as layers of red currants, pomegranate seed and blood orange zest meld with the earthy undertones of the wine. Medium bodied, and showing great poise and length, this outstanding new Pinot Noir will enjoy at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2018 Alexana ‘East Blocks Volcanic Soils’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Dundee Hills AVA, the ‘East Blocks Volcanic Soils’ shows a light dusting of volcanic terroir with shades of wild blackberry and peat moss that mingle in the glass. The palate is dense, with great freshness and texture. The light salinity and damp stone character really entices as the core of blackberry compote and pine needle tones connect with shades of Satsuma orange rind on this complex and delicious palate. The depth and concentration is awesome, as is the great tension of the wine, leading to an exceedingly long finish. Gorgeous and deep in its youth, this outstanding new wine will enjoy a long road ahead of it. Drink 2020-2036- 94

2018 Alexana ‘West Blocks Sedimentary Soils’ Pinot Noir- The ‘West Blocks Sedimentary Soils’ Pinot Noir has an err of salty terroir once on the bouquet with shades of kirsch and blood orange that connect with the earthy aromatics of the wine. The palate is dense and wonderfully salty from the quite obvious terroir — so much so that your mouth continues to water throughout the drinking experience. Wild blackberry and cran-pomegrantae flavors connect with the forest floor and wild mushroom tones of the wine. Complete and having great length, this beautiful wine is only an infant and has many years of drinking enjoyment ahead of it. Drink 2020-2036- 94

2018 Alexana ‘Revana Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The famed ‘Revana Vineyard’ is located in the Northwestern corner of the Dundee Hills AVA. Amazingly this site has 18 different soil types as well as ten different clones of Pinot Noir. Needing a two hour decant to be fully aroused, the wine leads with a massive core of dark fruits with shades of Earl Grey tea, Asian spices, orange zest and peat moss tones that round out this exotic bouquet. The palate is dense and chewy with a vibrant sense of minerality. The weight of the wine almost takes you to Sonoma with its dark kirsch tones and lighter cola and damp earth accents. A light salinity mingles with the deep fruits and the long finish entices. Truly gratifying in all of its rich splendor, this warm vintage Pinot Noir is utterly sensational to savor right now and will provide drinking enjoyment for two decades. Drink 2020-2038- 95

Virtue Cellars

In the spirt of Washington Wine Month we bring you a new winery out of Shoreline, Washington. I love discovering new winery projects and it is my great pleasure to introduce this limited production winery that was founded in 2013 by Kevin and Kathryn Mueller.  stablished in 2013, our mission is simple: produce world-class wines. They source from some great sites in Eastern Washington and produce roughly 1,000 cases of Bordeaux and Rhone style wines each year. The wines are very reasonably priced when you consider what is in the bottle.

I have never tried these wines and was really excited about what they did in the warm 2018 vintage. Look to the 2018 Virtue Cellars ‘Sincerity’ Syrah (WWB, 91) which is plush and dense with delicious dark fruit and smoky tones. Just as good was the 2018 Virtue Cellars ‘Fortitude’ Red Wine (WWB, 91) which has a good veil of tension and excellent length. Learn more about these wines at https://www.virtuecellars.com Here are the great new releases by Virtue Cellars.

2018 Virtue Cellars ‘Unity’ Red Wine- A blend of 48% Syrah and 32% Mourvedre, with the remainder Grenache, the ‘Unity’ has a good sense of softness, as round, rather forward red fruits collide with minerals and smoky undertones. Enjoy this over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2018 Virtue Cellars ‘Sincerity’ Syrah- Sourced from the Wallula Gap Vineyard, this shows good ripeness and acidity with layers of boysenberry cordial and mocha tones that combine with baking spices and smoked meats on the palate. Well-balanced and showing a good sense of mouthfeel, this downright delicious new Syrah will cellar well over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Virtue Cellars ‘Charisma’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Olsen and Solaksen Vineyards, the ‘Charisma’ shows nice smoky and sagebrush tones with blackberry compote on the nose. The palate has good freshness with medium to full-bodied dark fruit, chocolate and pipe tobacco flavors, with light tannins rounding things out. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2018 Virtue Cellars ‘Fortitude’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Merlot (48%) with smaller portions Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows chocolate covered cherry and espresso bean flavors with a good acidity and long finish. I can see this providing drinking enjoyment for another decade. Drink 2020-2028- 91