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Owen Bargreen

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Walla Walla icon Christophe Baron has crafted another sensational Hors Categorie Syrah, this time from the 2017 vintage.

Walla Walla icon Christophe Baron has crafted another sensational Hors Categorie Syrah, this time from the 2017 vintage.

Hors Catégorie

September 28, 2020

As we head into fall we share one of the outstanding wines produced in North America. Translated to ‘beyond categorization’ Hors Catégorie is a magnificent expression of terroir in a bottle. Sourced from a mere 2 acre vineyard hidden in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, the Hors Catégorie Vineyard is a sight to be seen. This vineyard is so steep that you struggle to climb it. As you whisk away beads of sweat from your forehead, the views from the top of the vineyard are simply breathtaking. 

Spacing at this stunning vineyard is extremely tight and the wine is remarkably cropped at less than a ton an acre. The terroir was largely stony with thick broken basalt sprinkled everywhere. You can almost feel the tension in the wines from the struggle of each individual vine. The 2017 Hors Categorie Syrah (WWB, 98) is nothing short of a magical, one of a kind effort —truly one of the finest wines I have tried in North America throughout the past year. While the stony terroir plays second fiddle, the other parts to the wine, the savory notes and flavor and aromatic range is just insanely good. The tension here is sensational as this edition vs. the 2016 is a bit more focused on freshness and beautiful finesse rather than weight. I think you will be just as pleased as I was with this highly sought after Syrah. Learn more about this marvelous Syrah at https://horscategorievineyards.com/horscategorievineyards/ Here is the new review for the incredible 2017 Hors Catégorie Syrah. 

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2017 Hors Catégorie Syrah (Spring 2021 release)- The name ‘Hors Categorie’ is a French term most frequently used in stage bicycle races to designate a climb that is 'beyond categorization.’ The nose is wonderfully stony with Umami, green olive tapenade, salted ham and wild blackberry cobbler tones that all meld in the glass. The seamless texture is seriously impressive as this weightless wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Bulls blood and charcuterie flavors connect with wild blackberry cordial, cigar ash and garrigue with orange zest undertones. This is Jamet meets Oregon —truly one of the finest wines I have tasted in the past year. Sensational in its youth, with its graceful finesse, I can see this giving drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 98

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After selling her sparkling house, J Vineyards, Judy Jordan has an outstanding new winery project, Geodesy.

After selling her sparkling house, J Vineyards, Judy Jordan has an outstanding new winery project, Geodesy.

Geodesy

September 25, 2020

It surprises me sometimes how many great new wineries we see on the west coast. Geodesy was founded in hopes to help advance the next generation of women in agriculture. Production focuses on estate vineyard wines and profits help support their WG Edge program which connects "Edgers" with a multi-generational village of teachers, mentors, and internship sponsors who guide, support, and open doors for them. Our hope is that these young women will play a significant role in helping agriculture in our region thrive.

In 2015 Judy Jordan sold J Vineyards, an incredibly successful sparkling wine house. Since that time she has carefully been working on a new winery project, and founded Geodesy in 2019. Over time Judy and her team acquired vineyards in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills and Chehalem Mountains, Sonoma County’s Petaluma Gap, and Napa Valley. The wines are made by Megan Baccitich, formerly Director of Winemaking for Paul Hobbs Wines. I was really impressed with the range of new releases that I found to be outstanding across the board. I love the 2018 Geodesy ‘Eola Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has really nice depth and layers. Even better is the sinfully good 2017 Geodesy ‘Sage Ridge Vineyard; Red Wine (WWB, 94) which is wonderfully concentrated, with a great veil of tension that connects with the core of dark fruits. Learn more about this outstanding new winery at https://geodesywine.com/ Here are the great new releases by Geodesy. 


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2018 Geodesy ‘Eola Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Toasted brioche and salted macadamia nut with smoky undertones all collide on the nose. The palate is unabashedly rich with a silky texture and very pretty melon and orchard fruits that mingle with lemon creme brulee. This is Oregon meets Sonoma. The seriously good weight suggests some aging potential. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Geodesy ‘Chelahem Mountain Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Compared to the ‘Eola Springs VIneyard’ the ‘Chelahem Mountain Vineyard’ is geared more towards finesse — yet it still packs a serious punch with its rich vanilla cream and baked apple flavors. The minerality is outstanding as this beautiful new Chardonnay will enjoy another decade of life ahead of it, picking up nutty and earthy tones as it cellars. Drink 2020-2030- 92 


2018 Geodesy ‘Eola Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 Geodesy ‘Eola Springs VIneyard’ shows great freshness and concentration with ripe red and dark fruits that mingle with shades of sandalwood and forest floor on the palate. Rich and viscous, with a great veil of tension, this beautiful bottling will have another decade or more of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93


2018 Geodesy ‘Chehalem Mountan Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- A wine with great terroir, the volcanic terroir is quite evident on the palate here. Layers of wild blackberries and minerals are woven together with black truffle shavings and Mandarin orange rind on the palate. Complex and delightful to revel in its youth, this fantastic 2018 Pinot Noir will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2033- 93


2017 Geodesy ‘Sage Ridge VIneyard’ Red Wine- The 2017 Geodesy ‘Sage Ridge Vineyard’ Red Wine is a gorgeous effort from Napa. Dark chocolate shavings and Turkish coffee tones with red rose florals combine with the deep core of dark fruits aromatically. The palate is dense yet well-balanced. Layers of chocolate covered espresso bean and sagebrush combine with black currant cordial and tar on the palate. The length and elegance of this wine is really impressive, as the 2017 ‘Sage Ridge Vineyard’ Red Wine will enjoy another fifteen to twenty years ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 94

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Domaine Serene 2017 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir.jpg

Domaine Serene World’s Most Awarded Winery at Decanter 2020 World Wine Awards

September 24, 2020

We share some big news out of Oregon today as Domaine Serene is the world’s most awarded winery at the Decanter 2020 World Wine Awards. Domaine Serene has received an astounding 23 medals at Decanter Magazine's 2020 World Wine Awards. This sweeping recognition includes a coveted 'Best in Show' top title, four Gold medals, 17 Silver medals and one Bronze medal. 
The 2016 Domaine Serene Mark Bradford Vineyard Pinot Noir was named best in show and was tasted by an elite international panel made up of 118 expert wine judges including 37 Masters of Wine and nine Master Sommeliers who, over the course of 28 consecutive days, judged 16,518 wines from 56 countries. 
Huge congrats to them on their hard work 

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Matthias Pippig has crafted another thrilling set of new wines for Sanguis.

Matthias Pippig has crafted another thrilling set of new wines for Sanguis.

Sanguis

September 24, 2020

Back in 2011 I was at a great tasting and I was introduced to these wines that have literally blown up the Santa Barbara wine scene. I won’t forget the first time that I tried these viscous, novel wines. Sanguis, truly one of the great boutique wineries in California. Superstar winemaker Matthias Pippig produces a really novel range of wines, from Viognier to Cabernet Franc. Latin for blood, the German-born Matthias Pippig previously worked as a wine importer for Marc DeGrazia Selections, and Estate Wines, before starting his winery in the Santa Ynez Valley. If you have never had a chance to try these wines, I highly recommend that you do.

Pippig changes blends yearly in his Rhône and Bordeaux style wines, hand sorts each wine and never makes the same wine twice. Many of his wines weigh in at over 15% alcohol but they do not present as highly alcoholic. However, the theme of impressive weight and texture runs through all of his wines. While the wines have good richness the tension that runs through the core of the wine is quite impressive as well. 

I am always amazed by the Rose that Sanguis makes and this edition from 2018, their ‘Amor For No. 5’ (WWB, 94) is quite literally the best Rose that I have had this year in North America. The texture and aromatic flavor range is unreal, as this beautiful wine is better warmed up a bit. Pippig crafts makes some of the best white blends in California. The new edition, the 2017 Sanguis ‘Stolen Moments’ White Wine (WWB, 95) is fresh and vibrant yet has an incredible texture and rich mouthfeel. This is a white wine that will cellar marvelously for a decade or more. Just as good was the 2016 Sanguis ‘1/1’ Syrah (WWB, 95) which deep and inky, yet having a weightless feel once on the mouth. Learn more about these very special wines at sanguiswine.com or visit their hip tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara, which is by appointment. Here are the new releases by Sanguis.

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2017 Sanguis ‘Stolen Moments’ White Wine- The 2017 Stolen Moments by Sanguis is a mesmerizing white blend that needs about two hours in the decanter to fully evolve. After some air layers of nectarine rind, beeswax, lychee and ripe pineapple all magically combine to fill this exotic bouquet. The palate is lush, showing a wonderful sense of mouthfeel and powerful vein of tension that runs through the copious orchard and citrus fruits, with earthy undertones. Gobs of mouth watering acidity and tremendous length contribute to the drinking enjoyment. A complete wine, the 2017 ‘Stolen Moments’ White Wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘The Secret’ White Wine- Sourced from the Santa Ynez Valley, the 2017 ‘The Secret’ like the other Sanguis wines really needs a two hour decant to fully evolve. Right away you are drawn to the tones of honeydew melon, pink grapefruit blossom and crisp Pink Lady apple aromatics with baking spices that all collide in the glass. The palate has a great feel of freshness and a soft texture. The gratifying length to the wine really adds to the enjoyment as sour Yakima cherry and melon tones meld with the wet stone and damp earth accents of the wine. A long-ager, the 2017 ‘The Secret’ is brilliant in its youth and will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 94

2018 Sanguis ‘Amor Fou No. 5’ Rose- The 2018 ‘Amor Fou No. 5’ is nothing short of a masterpiece by the hands of Matthias Pippig. This shows slightly better warmed up a bit. Showing off its unique brown and yellow tones, the Rose needs an hour decant to fully evolve. Damp earth tones combine with shades of red currants an red cherry preserves on the nose. The palate is exceedingly gratifying with excellent weight, acidity and a sensational finish as the crescendo. The salty and savory undertones of the wine add to the enjoyment. As it grasps for more air, the texture comes on even stronger becoming downright pillowy. Truly sensational in its youth, the ‘Amour Fo No. 5’ Rose will have a long life in the cellar, picking up earthy tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2028- 94

2016 Sanguis ‘Loner’ Chardonnay- This marks the last Chardonnay that Matthias Pippig will make from the famed Bien Nacido Vineyard. The wine shows pretty lemon blossom tones that combine with poached pear and vanilla creme brûlée on the nose. Showing seriously good stony terroir, a light dusting of salinity falls upon the core of pear and apple fruits with hints of bananas foster adding to the decadence. Rich and layered with gorgeous length, this stunning wine will enjoy al long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘Bossman’ Red Wine-The 2017 ‘Bossman’ is a gorgeous blend of Syrah, Petit Sirah, Grenache and Viognier that was aged for twenty five months in 60% new French oak before bottling. A decadent treat to consume, the layers of toasty oak wrap around the deep core of dark and blue fruits with tobacco leaf tones, exotic spices and chocolate covered espresso bean providing an err of decadence. The length and texture is just insanely good. Lingering long, with great freshness, this beautiful red blend will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘Verve’ Red Wine- Always highly unique, the 2017 ‘Verve’ is a gorgeous blend of Grenache, Petit Sirah and Roussanne. The high tones from the nose really entice as citrus blossom and bright red fruits combine with the rich dark tones aromatically. The palate is plush, showing great weight and acidity. Layers of pomegranate seed and blackberry compote mingle with a feeling of dusty and salty terroir. Long and lingering at the end, the 2017 ‘Verve’ will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘Tell Me A Tale’ Cabernet Sauvignon- the 2017 Sanguis ‘Tell Me A tale’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a simply marvelous effort that has a long life ahead of it. Sourced from the Santa Ynez Valley, the Cabernet Sauvignon opens with a beautiful bouquet of blackberry pie and mocha tones that combine with chocolate covered espresso bean and tar that all mingle in the glass. The weight of this wine is highly gratifying as the bright acidity brings you back to the glass for more enjoyment Hedonistic and layered with outstanding length, this beautiful wine will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘1/1’ Grenache- This Central Coast AVA bottling is translucent in the glass. Not needing any time in the decanter, right away you are amazed by the pretty high tones of red rose petal, lychee, orange blossom and shades of cloves that all dance in the glass. The palate unveils a silky elegance with a wonderful tension and mouthfeel. Layers of bright red fruits meld with citrus rind and stony undertones. This is truly one of the great Grenache wines made in California with the combination of finesse, richness and bright, mouth-watering acidity. Layered and downright delicious in its youth, the ‘1/1’ Grenache will cellar well for the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘1/1/ Syrah- Sourced from the Santa Rita Hills AVA, the ‘1/1’ Syrah is another sensational release by the talented Matthias Pippig. The earthy accents really provide good range on the nose with the core of dark fruits, citrus blossom and cocoa powder tones. The palate is silky smooth and marvelously textured. Layers of ripe red and black fruits march in unison with orange rind and peat moss tones on the palate. The gratifying length, bright acidity and weight all add to the enjoyment. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, the 2017 ‘1/1’ Syrah will cellar well for another decade to come. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘The Modern’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘The Modern’ by Sanguis is a gorgeous blend of Syrah with a small portion of Viognier. The smoky and savory aromatic tones really entice with citrus blossom mingling with the smoked pork shoulder and bacon fat tones alongside the core of dark fruits. The wine is beautifully textured, showing off incredible length and a seamless effect as this dance across the mid-palate. Bright cranberry and red currants combine with the smoky and earthy tones of the wine, with orange zest accents. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, the 2017 ‘The Modern’ Red Wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘The Optimist’ Red Wine- The Sanguis ‘The Optimist’ is a one of a kind blend of Syrah, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Roussanne. Bell pepper tones combine with star jasmine, deep red fruits and tobacco tones on the nose. The palate is silky smooth showing off an incredible mouthfeel and texture. Pipe tobaocco, leather and green bell pepper tones mingle with smoked brisket, orange rind and blackberry compote on the palate. The flavor and aromatic range here is nothing short of insanely good. Gorgeous to savor right now, the 2017 ‘The Optimist’ will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Sanguis ‘The Highlands’ Red Wine- A proprietary blend sourced from a warmer part of the Santa Ynez Valley, the 2017 ‘The Highlands’ red wine shows pretty rose water and red cherry candy that mingles with shades of cinnamon, clove and Mandarin orange zest on the nose. The texture and verve of the wine is seriously good as this gives off an err of elegance. Bright red fruits and citrus rind accents dance with the earthy and smoky tones of the wine. Wait for the exceedingly long finish at the end. Drink 2020-2033- 95

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Awesome new wines by Joshua West of Elephant Seven.

Awesome new wines by Joshua West of Elephant Seven.

Elephant Seven

September 23, 2020

Now more of a Walla Walla mainstay than a new winery, I have really enjoyed the wines by Joshua West of Elephant Seven. Like many people in the wine industry, Josh comes from a diverse background in investment banking and has only has been winemaking on a full time basis for several years. He has previously worked for Whitehaven in New Zealand as well as interning at Figgins, Cadaretta, and Dusted Valley in Walla Walla. In the past several years he and his wife began their winery in Walla Walla and have a their tasting room in downtown Walla Walla. The wines he makes are classy, focusing on a combination of varietal typicity, mouthfeel and tension. Josh has a very high ceiling as a winemaker.

I love the new 2018 Elephant Seven ‘Yellow Bird VIneyard’ Grenache (WWB, 92) which shows very pretty red fruits and has good range. Even better was the 2016 Elephant Seven ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 93) which shows nice stony terroir from this Walla Walla Rocks AVA vineyard. Learn more about this exciting new Washington winery at https://www.elephantsevenwine.com/ Here are the new releases by Elephant Seven. 


2018 Elephant Seven ‘Yellow Bird Vineyard’ Grenache- A blend of 80% Grenache with the remainder Syrah, this shows pretty florals alongside the smoky and dark fruit aromatic tones on the nose. The palate is bright, with great acidity and a soft mouthfeel. Layers of boysenberry compote mingle with coffee grounds and shades of bacon fat and Umami on the palate. This is seriously good stuff in its youth, as this beautiful new Grenache will cellar well over the next eight plus years. Drink 2020-2028- 92


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2018 Elephant Seven ‘River Rock Vineyard’ Syrah- One of the great sites in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, right away you are entrenched in the bacon fat and dried Provencale aromatic tones with shades of huckleberry. The palate is soft and generous with a silky mouthfeel. Bright red fruits dance with shades of kumquat zest, Umami and charcuterie on the palate. Great toe enjoy even at the two year mark, this has another five to seven years of drinking enjoyment. Drink 2020-2026- 93

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It was an honor to taste the pre-release 2018 wines with superstar director of winemaking Paul Golitzin of Quilceda Creek.

It was an honor to taste the pre-release 2018 wines with superstar director of winemaking Paul Golitzin of Quilceda Creek.

Quilceda Creek

September 23, 2020

Sitting across, socially distanced from superstar winemaker Paul Golitzin, I knew what an honor it was to be the first wine critic to try their 2018 wines. The 2018 vintage marks the 40th vintage for Quilceda Creek, a remarkable winery story that is truly one of the greats not only in Washington but in North America. “The 2018 vintage was moderately warm and in the end it cooled off and gave us a lot of hang time” said Paul. He admitted that he has been really excited about how his new plantings at the Champoux Vineyard are showing. “They are vibrant in the glass and have wonderful perfume that adds a different dimension to the wines. Clone 191 has tones of power and a black walnut character that I taste 191 from the tank.” While in Hawaii Paul enjoyed a 2003 Chateau Latour which reminded him of this Clone 191 Cabernet Sauvignon with the signature perfumed character of the wine. He continued to share how important clonal selection has been in crafting his wines. “Clone 412 is hugely spice driven while 685 has black fruit and amazing perfume to it. I think it reminds me of Cabernet Franc, it is innately Cabernet Franc yet is Cabernet Sauvignon. That is probably my favorite clone.”

The many layers in these wines is quite enthralling. Even in their entry level wine, the 2018 Quilceda Creek ‘CVR’ (WWB, 94) you can really feel the floral tones and complexity of this wine, with voluptuous fruit character ranging from black to blue fruits. I absolutely love this wine. Even better is their 2018 Quilceda Creek ‘Palengat’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which I feel is their best ‘Palengat’ ever crafted. This stunning bottling is utterly sensational right now after a lot of air and will cellar well for more than fifteen years. Both the ‘Columbia Valley’ and ‘Galitzine Vineyard’ bottlings are going to be monumental wines and need a bit more time in the bottle, but I was able to get a really good feel for these wines over several hours. I can say that both wines have the potential to be as good as any ever produced, as I gave a preliminary rating of 98-100 on both wines and will revisit them in the future.

Finally, I would like to offer my heartfelt congratulations to Quilceda Creek on their 40th vintage and their dedication to crafting world class wines and paving the way for so many in the Washington Wine Industry. Learn more about this storied winery at quilcedacreek.com. Here are my notes for the future release 2018 wines.  

2018 Quilceda Creek ‘CVR’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘CVR’ by Quilceda Creek is a gorgeous wine that is showing brilliantly even at the two year mark. A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. The nose shows wonderful florals with violets and red rose petals, combining with sagebrush and a deep core of dark fruits with underlying blueberry cobbler. The palate is fresh and viscous with a wonderful veil of tension. Ripe blackberries and blueberry compote flavors mingles with cassis tones and light tannins. Drink 2020-2032- 94

2018 Quilceda Creek ‘Palengat’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Named after Paul Golitzin’s mother’s French heritage, the 2018 ‘Palengat’ is a stunning new wine by Quilceda Creek. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (97%) from Champoux, and Mach One Vineyards, with the Cabernet Franc (3%) from the Palengat Vineyard, this shows lovely non-fruit character on the nose with tar and chocolate covered espresso bean tones that mingle with the deep blue fruits and florals on this exotic bouquet. The palate is deep and voluptuous showing an insanely good texture and richness, yet not coming off overly heavy. A very light dusting of salinity adds to the complexity. The pillowy texture is gorgeous as layers of blueberry compote and creosote are woven together with graphite, sagebrush and blackberry pie on the palate. This is quite simply the best ‘Palengat’ I have tried since they began making this wine in 2006. Drink 2020-2036- 96

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2018 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 98-100

2018 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 98-100

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Jason Gorski crafts an incredible array of wines for DeLille Cellars.

Jason Gorski crafts an incredible array of wines for DeLille Cellars.

DeLille Cellars

September 21, 2020

I looked around and saw nothing but happy people. Yesterday visiting the new spacious and modern DeLille facility, staff and patrons were grinning ear to ear. Staff love serving great wines and patrons love enjoying the wines and the great hospitality experience. For those of you who have never visited their new tasting room, it is a must-visit, as everyone is socially distanced with plenty of space and fresh air in a wonderfully modern setting. A few weeks back I was sent the new lineup of DeLIlle Cellars wines and was blown away with the overall quality. One of Woodinville’s historic outposts, for more than a decade DeLille was led by eminent Washington wine pioneer Chris Upchurch. About ten years ago Chris made the brilliant decision to hire Jason Gorski to be his assistant, as Jason had been working for Ste. Michelle properties for several years, gaining a depth of varietal knowledge during that compelling experience. 

Jason now serves as director of winemaking and his new red wines all share the common thread of concentration, power and finesse. I absolutely loved the elegant 2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which is wonderfully elegant with serious range and tension. Even better was their 2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Lot 3.’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 96) which is gorgeous with its dense core of dark fruits and has a long life ahead of it. Learn more about these great wines at delillecellars.com Here are the gorgeous new releases by DeLille Cellars.


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2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Doyenne’ Red Wine- A blend of Syrah (60%) with the reminder Cabernet Sauvignon, this Provence inspired red wine shows lovely milk chocolate tones with garrigue and red bell pepper on this sensational nose. The mouthfeel and texture is seriously good as the wine unveils a good range of dark fruits with chocolate fudge and sagebrush tones on the palate. Plush and inviting in its youth, this beautiful wine has another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 93


2018 DeLille Cellars ‘Metier’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Metier’ Red Wine is a thrilling new Rhone style release by superstar winemaker Jason Gorski. A blend of mostly Mourvedre (50%) with smaller portions Grenache, Syrah, Syah and a touch of Cinsault, this reveals smoked brisket and red cherry candy with Provenceale herbs on the nose. The palate is plush, showing off its silky texture. Very pretty guava preserves mingle with roasted dates, blackberry compote, smoke, cigar box and dried herbs on the palate. The 2018 ‘Metier’ captures the art of blending as this fantastic new wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93


2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Signature’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Signature’ Syrah has a very small portion of Viognier blended in. Showing off its dark hue, this reveals layers of dark fruits with smoked brisket, Asian spices and chocolate tones on this gorgeous bouquet. The palate is dense and chewy with a gorgeous mouthfeel. Layers of ripe figs and blackberry coulis flavors collide with minerals, smoked pork shoulder and minerals all meld together in the glass. A complete wine, this downright awesome Syrah will cellar well over the next ten years. Drink 2020-2030- 93


2017 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- The awesome 2017 ‘D2’ delivers copious red and dark fruits with chocolate and sagebrush tones on the palate. Plush texturally and full-bodied, this shows even more opulence and mouthfeel after an hour of air. Great to enjoy right now, this outstanding effort will be best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2020-2028- 92


2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Red Willow’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Red Willow’ is a silky right bank style Washington blend of Cabernet Franc (54%) with Merlot (32%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (14%). On the nose bright red cherry tones combine with red bell pepper, sagebrush and chocolate. The palate is silky smooth with a great texture and feel of salty terroir. Bright red cherry preserves and milk chocolate flavors mingle with dried herbs and shades of tar on the palate. With great concentration and silky tannins this outstanding new wine will provide drinking enjoyment over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2035- 94


2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate’ Red Wine- The 2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate’ Red Wine is a compelling melange of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) with smaller portions merlot, Cabernet Franc and just a dollop of Petit Verdot. The dollop shows up with the lighter green herbal tones that mingle with the core of blackberry compote, coffee grounds and creosote on the nose. The palate is elegant, with firm tannins that lone the core of dark fruits with chocolate covered espresso bean and sagebrush accents. Gorgeous and bright with wonderful finesse in its youth, be sure to give this at least an hour in the decant if enjoying soon. Drink 2021-2038- 95


2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Harrison Hill’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Harrison Hill’ combines Cabernet Sauvignon (67%) with Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc (8%). Sourced from this famed site set on gravel and sandy loam soils, dusty terroir and a core of bright red fruits with red rose petals all mingle with tar and baking spices on the nose. The palate has good concentration and a great veil of freshness. Layers of wild blackberry and mocha mingle with anise and baking spice tones on the palate. Vibrant and showing great acidity at this stage, this beautiful wine will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2038- 94


2017 DeLille Cellars ‘Lot 3’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Lot 3’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous new effort with serious aging potential. Sourced from Red Mountain, once on the nose this shows high toned potpourri and mocha that mingle with blueberry compote and sagebrush on this evocative nose. The palate is silky smooth with incredible verve and elegance. Obviously concentrated, the weightless feeling really makes this tick. Gorgeous violets and blackberry compete flavors mingle with milk chocolate and sagebrush tones with hints of blueberry pie on the palate. The range here is sensational as this outstanding new wine will enjoy another twenty years of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 96


2017 DeLille Cellars Malbec- Sourced from the famed Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley AVA, this shows off dark currants and Turkish coffee artfully woven together with smoked brisket and blueberry compote on the nose. The palate is dense and wonderfully textured. Layers of fresh blueberries and minerals mingle with smoke, blackberry pie and violets on the palate. With great length and elegance, this outstanding new Malbec will enjoy another fifteen to twenty years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2035- 94


2016 DeLille Cellars ‘Grand Ciel’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from their estate site on Red Mountain, the 2016 ‘Grand Ciel’ shows deep creosote aromatic tones that meld with blackberry pie mocha, sagebrush and purple rose petals that all take shape in the glass. The palate is deep and concentrated, yet very elegant. The plush texture entices as blackberry compote, coffee grounds, kirsch cordial and shades of dried herbs all brilliantly combine on the palate. Showing great length and generous texture, this outstanding effort will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Be sure to give this a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2021-2040- 95

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Great photo here of Guardian Cellars founders, David Riener and Jennifer Sullivan.

Great photo here of Guardian Cellars founders, David Riener and Jennifer Sullivan.

Guardian Cellars

September 18, 2020

I love boutique wineries that are producing outstanding wines that command a reasonable price tag, it had been several years since I have visited the lineup at Guardian Cellars and I was due a revisit. Jerry Riener, a chemist, turned cop, had been volunteering 40-plus hours a week at several wineries, including Mark Ryan Winery and Matthews Cellars. More than twelve years ago Guardian Cellars started with a production of 350 cases. Today Guardian produces over 9,000 cases of wine. Jerry maintains his day job as a cop alongside his co-founder, Jennifer Sullivan who manages their tasting room and works as a reporter for KOMO Seattle.

The wines have great structure and richness, taken from the 2016 and 2017 vintages. I love the 2016 Guardian Cellars ‘The Rookie’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which is dense with a great sense of mouthfeel. Just as good was the 2017 Guardian Cellars ‘The Informant’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which is wonderfully smoky and shows bacon fat and spicy tones on the palate. Learn more about this fantastic boutique winery at https://www.guardiancellars.com Here are the great new releases by Guardian Cellars. 

2017 Guardian ‘Confidential Source’ Merlot- Sourced from a host of great vineyards across the Columbia Valley, the 2017 ‘Confidential Source’ shows plenty of dark fruits with toasty oak on the nose. The palate shows good structure with layers of red and dark fruits with shades of tar and milk chocolate. This has great balance. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2017 Guardian Cellars ‘Chalk Line’ Red Wine- The ‘Chalk Line’ is a great blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) with smaller portions Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Lighter herbal tones collide with blackberry compote and leather on the nose. The structure and weight is really good as downright delicious dark kirsch, blackberry pie and mocha flavors connect with the bright sense of minerality. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Guardian Cellars ‘Gun Metal’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Gun Metal’ by Guardian is a blend of mainly Merlot and Cabernet Franc sourced from the Connor Lee and Stone Tree Vineyards. A nice herbal dusting combines with the core of dark fruits and coffee grounds on the nose. The palate is really nicely balanced, with bright acidity that mingles with the core of red and dark fruits, with coffee ground, sagebrush and milk chocolate flavors. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Guardian Cellars ‘The Rookie’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘The Rookie’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Klipsun, Quintessence and Obelisco Vineyards. The nose is nicely hedonistic with sagebrush, espresso bean and blackberry compote aromas that all mingle in the glass. The palate is plush, delivering a good sense of mouthfeel and texture. Layers of kirsch, anise and blackberry cordial combine with the herbal undertones of the wine. Outstanding to enjoy at this stage, the 2016 ‘The Rookie’ has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

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2017 Guardian Cellars ‘The Informant’ Syrah- The 20117 ‘The Informant’ has 3% Viognier blended in. Smoky tones combine with sage and the core of dark fruits on the nose. The palate is full-bodied and has a great sense of mouthfeel, weight and texture. Layers of bacon fat, blackberry pie, exotic spices and smoked pork shoulder all brilliantly combine. Gorgeous now, enjoy this outstanding new wine over the next ten years. Drink 2020-2030- 92

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We had a sensational meal delivered to our home from Commander’s Palace in New Orleans.

We had a sensational meal delivered to our home from Commander’s Palace in New Orleans.

Wine Pairings For Classic New Orleans Cuisine

September 17, 2020

One of our favorite spots for a long weekend, my wife and I have unfortunately missed our annual visit to New Orleans due to Covid-19. But we fortunately stumbled upon an awesome remedy — Goldbelly delivers special foods from top restaurants across the United States. We were really pleased to see that they offered an expedited three course meal from Commander’s Palace, taking the best of the Big Easy to our doorstep. I immediately excited to take on the task of finding great wine pairings for a host of intricate classic New Orleans dishes. To make it more fun, I added a few out of the box wine pairings that I hoped might provide a good foil to the other choices.

FIRST COURSE: New Orleans Style Turtle Soup

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The turtle soup was topped with a Cossart Gordon 10 Year Verdejo Madeira which was an incredible compliment to this dish, adding spice, citrus notes and extra layers of complexity. I was absolutely blown away with this dish, truly one of my favorites in New Orleans cuisine. This dish has loads of richness from the turtle meat and buttery tones with collard greens but the citrus accents really make Spanish Rioja a natural choice — especially a wine with a little warmth but good acidity to cut through the richness of the dish. I devoured every bite of this incredible, one of a kind, dish, reminiscing on many happy memories spent in New Orleans.

WINE PAIRINGS: 

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2014 Bodega Beronia ‘Riserva’ Rioja (WWB, 91); 2012 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja (WWB, 93); 2010 Bodega Carmen Rodriguez Mendez ‘Carodorum’ Toro (wild card).

The ’14 Beronia ‘Reserva’ is lighter than the two other wines. The growing season in 2014 was pretty moderate and this is definitely the lightest of the three wines showing more citrus rind tones than the other wines. I liked the balance here in which the pretty red fruits didn’t dominate the dish.

I adore the ’12 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja is rich and decadent almost bordering on toes of Hoisin sauce with an incredible texture from the oak treatment. There is something seductive I love about this warm vintage wine, marked by serious heat. But they citrus rind accents and great acidity still made this balance marvelously. 

The 2010 ‘Carodorum’ Toro was our ‘wild card’ with nice earthy undertones but loads of dark fruits and chocolate. The mouthfeel here was gorgeous but overwhelmed the dish a bit. Yet there is an err of decadence of the dish that makes this work. 

Final verdict: The key here was balance with one of New Orleans’s signature dishes. I think of all the possible pairings, there is no doubt that the 2012 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja really worked marvelously with the richness of the dish, still embodying citrus rind tones, yet offering something special in terms of texture and viscosity that mirrors the dish beautifully. 

SECOND COURSE: Shrimp and Grits 

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I’ll happily admit that I am not always the biggest fan of this southern classic. However, this dish was nothing short of a home run! The shrimp were large and perfectly cooked, not overly salty. The roux really carries this dish with the incredible density and fantastic creole flavors. One thing I love about this comfort dish is it was not overly rich. The grits were creamy and wonderfully textured but the dish did not come across as heavy. I think we were both amazed by how good the dish was even though we weren’t actually seated at Commander’s Palace.


WINE PAIRINGS: 

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2017 Rasa Vineyards ‘Dream Deferred’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93); 2017 Groth Vineyards Chardonnay (WWB, 92); 2015 Dobbes Family Estate Grenache Blanc (WWB, 90) (wild card)

First, I’ll begin with our wild card, sourced from the Rogue Valley, the 2015 Grenache Blanc by Dobbes. There have been some somms who advocate for new world Rhone style wines matching this dish but I felt that although the wine had good weight, the astringency was a bit much in terms of sour green papaya and green apple tones. A good effort, and good wine, but lacking in overall balance for this particular dish. 

The 2017 Rasa Vineyards Chardonnay is rich, opulent and beautifully textured. The wine has good freshness intact but the length and richness stands up to the rich. The creamy aspects of this wine really made this a great match.

Our final wine is from Napa, the esteemed 2017 Groth ‘Hillview Vineyard’ Chardonnay which shows really good poise and a slightly lighter creamy tones and viscosity but more towards wild mushroom, lemon rind and damp earth. I really enjoyed this pairing. 

Final Verdict: As much as I absolutely adore the Rasa Chardonnay, the best pairing was the 2017 Groth Chardonnay with the lemon zest tones and earthy undertones, as well as the light saline streak that the wine offers. This made this simply incredible to stand up the richness and salty tones of the shrimp and grits. 

THIRD COURSE: Pecan Pie

This was classic Pecan Pie at its best. For as rich and decadent that the pie was, there was this wonderful freshness to the dish that made it considerably lighter than one might expect. The pie was not overly sweet which made the Madeira choices really glisten. The nutty and buttery characteristic really shown. This dish was every bit as good as the other two which I think surprised us both. 

WINE PAIRINGS

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2006 Miles ‘Tinta Negra Medium Dry’ Madeira (WWB, 92); 2008 Miles ‘Tinta Negra Medium Dry’ Madeira (WWB, 92); NV Barbadillo ‘La Cilla’ Pedro Ximenez (WWB, 91)

Given the sweetness of the NV Pedro Ximenez, I considered that to be our wild card. We began the pairing with the 2006 Miles, this shows slightly more sour cherry and citrus fruits than the ’08 that is slightly more lifted but shows less in terms of roasted dates and figs in the profile but more Mandarin orange rind and Maraschino cherry. I think both the 2006 and 2008 Madeira wines were beautiful choices.

The final wine, the ‘La Cilla’ is made from Pedro Ximenez grapes and shows incredible viscosity and texture with considerable more decadence and sweetness than the vintage Madeira wines.  As crazy as I am for PX wines, it simply overpowered the dish. 

Final Verdict: Both the 2006 and 2008 Madeira wines had the impeccable balance and freshness that did not overpower the pecan pie. 

FINAL THOUGHTS: This was one of my favorite pieces to write in 2020 confinement, not only due to the sheer decadence of the food and my massive longing for great New Orleans cuisine, but the fantastic pairings that accompanied the food. For many of us, this serves as our closest ticket to the Big Easy, and for us this was more than a gratifying night ‘excursion’ reveling in some top class food and wine. 

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Mauro and Giovanni Manzone have created some stellar new Barolo wines.

Mauro and Giovanni Manzone have created some stellar new Barolo wines.

Giovanni Manzone

September 16, 2020

I am always fond of a great Barolo. Today we venture to Piedmont in Northern Italy to share one of the jewels of the region. In 1925 Giovanni Manzone purchased 'Ciabot del Preve' (the Parish Priest house) and he started the winemaking in Monforte d’Alba. During the years the Manzone family purchased important vineyards on the historic hill of ‘Castelletto’ and ‘Gramolere’ two top crus in  Monforte d'Alba. In the last several years Mauro (2005) and Mirella Manzone (2012) joined their father Giovanni in the management of the winery. Mauro and Mirella are graduates from the famed Oenology School of Alba. Manzone estate is located in Monforte d’Alba, Piedmont, in the southeastern portion of the Langhe hills. Manzone owns 8.5 hectares (about 20 acres) of vineyards and uses estate-grown grapes only. The entire production is roughly 45,000 bottles per year.

I have enjoyed many of these wines in my personal collection, particularly enjoying their ‘Bricat’ which consistently over-delivers for the price. I absolutely loved the 2015 Giovanni Manzone ‘Bricat’ Barolo (WWB, 93) which has a silky mouthfeel and is beautifully textured with very pretty red fruits. Even better is their top wine coming from the 2013 vintage, their Giovanni Manzone ‘Gramolere Riserva’ Barolo (WWB, 94) which is dense and chewy, having some massive structure and aging potential. Learn more about this famed Barolo estate at http://www.manzonegiovanni.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Manzone.


2018 Giovanni Manzone ‘Rosserto’ Rossese Bianco- Rossese Biano is a rare indigenous varietal that shows really nice nutty and earthy tones on the palate alongside nectarine and white grapefruit tones. Medium-bodied and showing a great combination of freshness and texture, this beautiful wine is best enjoyed over the next five years. Drink 2020-2025- 90


2018 Giovanni Manzone ‘Il Crutin’ Nebbiolo- The ‘Il Crutin’ Nebbiolo shows orange rind with the core of sour red fruits and smoky undertones on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting. Layers of pretty red fruits and potpourri combine with minerals and damp earthy tones on the palate. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2020-2025- 90


2017 Giovanni Manzone ‘La Marchesa’ Barbara D’Alba- This Barbera was aged for 16 months in large puncheons before bottling. Sour cherry and red raspberry tones collide with smoky minerals on the nose. The palate has wonderful freshness and verve with layers of bright red currants, pomegranate seed and volcanic terroir, with salty and smoky undertones. The freshness and wonderful sense of texture really makes this sing. Drink 2020-2028- 91


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2016 Giovanni Manzone ‘Gramolere’ Barolo- The 2016 ‘Gramolere’ Barolo shows wonderful dusty minerals with red rose petals and bright red fruits with potpourri on the nose. The palate has a soft mouthfeel with layers of pretty guava and sour red cherry flavors with damp earth and white truffle tones. Beautifully balanced, this has a long way to go. Drink 2020-2035- 92


2015 Giovanni Manzone ‘Bricat’ Barolo- The 2015 ‘Bricat’ Barolo is a gorgeous effort from this storied house founded in 1925. Once on the nose this takes on dusty terroir with shades of sour red raspberry and pomegranate seed with red rose petals woven together with smoky undertones. The palate has great freshness and concentration with a profound sense of elegance.  Ripe red currants dance with smoke, minerals and shades of wild mushroom on the palate. The length and gratifying acidity of the w wine really impress, as this exceptional effort will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2020-2038- 93


2013 Giovanni Manzone ‘Gramolere Riserva’ Barolo- The 2013 ‘Gramolere Riserva’ Barolo was aged for 54 months in large puncheons prior to bottling. The wonderful rose petal florals impress in the glass, as layers of pretty red fruits dance with smoky minerals on this fantastic bouquet. The palate shows a soft, seamless texture. Light tannins line the core of sour red fruits, with kumquat zest, black truffle and lighter white pepper tones on the palate. With great length and viscosity, this fantastic ‘Riserva’ has decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 94

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Great photo of an inspiring tale of the American dream, Darioush Khaledi.

Great photo of an inspiring tale of the American dream, Darioush Khaledi.

Darioush

September 15, 2020

Truly one of the great overall lineups in Napa, today we share the beautiful wines and inspired tale of Darioush. The Darioush story is an inspired by the American dream. Northern Iran is one of the birthplaces of wine, as records from 5,000 B.C. indicate a nomad culture living there and celebrating wine. Darioush Khaledi was instilled at an early age with the winemaking craft of his father and began collecting fine wine at a young age. He migrated from Iran to the United States and owned what was once the largest family-owned grocery store business in California. His passion for wine met its apex in 1997 when he formed Darioush winery. Darioush Khaledi is an inspired American dream.

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Following his business successes, Darioush set out to craft the best overall lineup of wines in Napa. Darioush not only created incredible success with his wines but he built what is one of the most beautiful wineries in the entire west coast. Upon entering the winery you are greeted by Persian inspired pillars that make you feel like you’re entering a royal palace. Imported travertine lines the entire winery and the calming water feature inside the winery really is something special. Outside during our visit we sat in a Provence inspired garden setting that felt a world away.

The new lineup of wines by Darioush was amazing across the board. I loved the new 2019 Darioush Viognier (WWB, 93) which has a great veil of tension and mouthfeel, making this really hard to resist right now. One of the best wines that I have sampled over the past year is their incredible pre-release Darius II, named after the historic Persian leader. The 2018 Darioush ‘Darius II’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 98) is a powerhouse wine that has incredible texture, richness and balance. I am absolutely enamored by this wine that has everything you want in a great Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.  Learn more about this special winery at darioush.com. Here are the great new wines by Darioush.

2019 Darioush ‘Sage Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- Sourced from this high elevation site, the soft texture of this wine catches you off guard, as rich honeydew melon and green apple flavors mingle with minerals and smoky undertones. The length and richness here is very good, as this is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2020-2024- 91

2019 Darioush Viognier- The 2019 Darioush Viognier is a sensational wine sourced from the Oak Knoll appellation as this was aged in 40% new French oak for six months before bottling. Ripe pineapple, lychee, mango and banana tones give this an exotic edge on the palate. The combination of weight, mouthfeel and viscosity makes this nearly impossible to resist as this beautiful Viognier is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 93

2018 Darioush Chardonnay- Sourced from the Napa Valley, this opens with toasty brioche woven together with minerals, damp earth and ripe banana and baked apple that all mingle in the glass. The palate is plush, creating a seamless effect. Rich butterscotch and creme brûlée tones combine with minerals, wild mushrooms and Golden Delicious apple on the palate. Rich, yet showing a great mineral backbone, this delicious Chardonnay will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2028- 93

2018 Darioush Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Russian River Valley AVA, the 2018 Darioush Pinot Noir shows wonderful cranberry and cola tones that mingle with forest floor and suggestions of wild blackberry that all come together aromatically. The palate is dense, showing a good sense of freshness and a silky mouthfeel. Layers of rich red and dark fruits collide with minerals, underbrush and cola tones. Complex and utterly delicious to savor in its youth, the gorgeous 2018 Darioush Pinot Noir will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2016 Darioush Shiraz- Rich, layered and decadent, the 2016 Dariosh Shiraz is a stunning wine by this great winemaking team. On the nose this shows. Bacon fat and rich dark fruits that collide with chocolate, mocha and minerals. The palate is plush, showing a great acid backbone that connects with the core of wild blackberry cobbler, coffee grounds, smoked pork shoulder and milk chocolate flavors. Full-bodied yet well-balanced, this beautiful new effort will enjoy another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 94

2018 Caravan Red Wine- The 2018 Caravan Red Wine is a silky blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 8% Malbec. Once on the nose this takes on layers of dark currants, tobacco leaf and cedar tones. The palate is soft and round, with ripe blackberries and black cherry flavors that meld with minerals, sweet pipe tobacco and anise. Complex and delicious even at the two year mark, this beautiful wine will have another ten years ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 91 

2017 Darioush Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Dariohsh Cabernet Sauvignon is a sensational blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, with equal parts Malbec and Petit Verdot from this somewhat challenging vintage in the Napa valley. Rich blackberry cordial and milk chocolate tones, with garrigue tones combine with loamy terroir on the nose. The palate is dense, with a great acid backbone. Layers of rich boysenberry preserves and creme de cassis are woven together with Turkish coffee, and blueberry compote on the palate. With great weight and length, this elegant yet rich Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2016 Darioush ‘Sage Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Sage Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an utterly sensational new release from this storied Napa house. Sourced from this Mt. Veeder site, the wine shows black cherry cordial, blackberry compote, mocha and tar tones that all dance together in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a wonderful veil of tension. Light tannins combine with mocha, tar, anise and creme de cassis flavors with loamy terroir tones that all take shape in the glass. Dense and chewy, with a massive sense of structure and viscosity, the gorgeous 2016 ‘Sage Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon will enjoy a long life in the cellar Drink 2021-2040- 95

2018 Darioush ‘Darius II’ Cabernet Sauvignon (pre-release)— Named after the famed Persian ruler, the 2018 ‘Darius II’ is a masterpiece by the Darioush winemaking team. Aged for 20 months in 100% new oak, once on the nose this shows off exotic spices and blueberry compote, woven together with creme de cassis, anise, and earthy terroir tones that sing in unison. The palate is rich and viscous with incredible tension. Firm tannins line the core of dark currants and Turkish coffee tones that deftly combine with creme de cassis, blueberry cordial and suggestions of dried herbs on this exotic palate. The exceptional finish provides the resounding crescendo as this simply glorious wine will enjoy decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2045- 98

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Veronique Dausse has been at the helm of Chateau Phelan-Segur for the past decade.

Veronique Dausse has been at the helm of Chateau Phelan-Segur for the past decade.

Chateau Phelan-Segur Vertical Tasting

September 14, 2020

As I sat across from Veronique on our respective IPhones, I couldn’t help but be impressed with the power of globalization during a pandemic. She was in Bordeaux, I was in Seattle, but we were still able to have a wonderfully meaningful conversation about her historic house and the beautiful wines of Phelan-Segur. For many years I have loved the wines of Chateau Phelan-Segur and have fond memories of those from 1990s, in particular the 1996 and the 1998 Phelan-Segurs being incredible (particularly since ’98 was such a challenge for left bank Bordeauxs). 

For those who are less familiar with this estate, Chateau Phelan-Segur has a long history, similar to many Bordeaux properties. The Irishman Bernard Phelan bought both Domaine Le Clos de Garamey in 1805 and Ségur de Cabarnac in 1810. Ironically while living in Ireland, Bernard Phelan was a neighbor and friend of Hugh Barton who started the famed Bordeaux estate, Chateau Leoville-Barton. 

Following Phelan’s passing in 1841 the estate combined to form Château Ségur de Garamey, which passed on to his son Frank Phelan, who served as mayor of Saint-Estephe for 30 years. From 1985 to the present,  Chateau Phelan-Segur has been owned by the Gardinier Group of Xavier Gardinier, and famed enologist, Michel Rolland is employed as their consulting enologist, first starting in 2006. I have been particularly impressed with the evolution of this house and the wines since Veronique Dausse has been at the helm for a decade. Since that time Phelan-Segur wines have been met with higher critical acclaim than ever. I have really enjoyed their recent releases. The property has a gorgeous setting right on the Gironde river and welcomes guests to taste, with a great culinary experience as well.

Chateau Phélan-Ségur's wine tends to vary in terms of varietal percentages. Typically it is somewhere in the range of near equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (usually slightly more Cabernet Sauvignon) with a small portion of Cabernet Franc. The grapes are initially fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and then aged in oak barriques (50% new) for 18 months prior to bottling. For this special tasting I shared from my cellar the 2005 while I was sent wines from 2011, 2014 and 2016.  I loved all three of the wines. The 2005 is really singing with its tertiary tones and is classic with its bell pepper notes that are also present in 2011 but obviously not a part of 2014 or 2016 wines. 2014 and 2016 Phelan-Segur are utterly sensational wines right now. 2016 in particular is shockingly good at the four year mark, with gorgeous layers of dark fruits and really good poise and length. Both the 2014 and 2016 will be particularly long-lived. Learn more about this storied Bordeaux estate at https://www.phelansegur.com/en/ Here are my tasting notes from my 2004-2006 vertical tasting of Chateau Phelan Segur. 


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2005 Chateau Phelan-Segur- Admittedly this is the first time in several years that I have sampled the 2005 Chateau Phelan-Segur and it remains every bit as good as the last time I tasted this awesome wine. Needing an hour in the decanter to fully evolve, this has a classic left bank nose with red bell pepper and anise that collide with the core of dark currants, graphite and loamy terroir on this gorgeous bouquet. The palate is silky smooth with great verve and freshness. A light dusting of salinity melds with the ripe core of dark fruits, with chocolate and tobacco leaf tones on the palate. Truly gorgeous now at the fifteen year mark, the 2005 Phelan-Segur will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 93


2011 Chateau Phelan-Segur- I am impressed with this showing from a challenging vintage. A bit more aromatically reticent than the ’05, this shows nice wild blackberry and tar tones that mingle with shades of dried sage and pipe tobacco on the nose. The palate is a bit linear with medium bodied blackberry, cassis and anise flavors alongside some red bell pepper and crushed mint tones. Leaner and more angular than the ’05, ’14 and ’16, this is very classic for the vintage.s The freshness suggests this will enjoy another decade, as this is at a good stage already at the nine year mark. Drink 2020-2033- 90


2014 Chateau Phelan-Segur- The 2014 Phelan-Segur is a really gorgeous wine that has some great cellaring potential. Alluring espresso bean and black currants dance with red bell pepper and boysenberry cordial on this heady nose. The palate has a lovely mouthfeel and great veil of tension. Ripe blackberry compote, mocha, exotic spice and loamy terroir all fill the palate. Wonderful so young, the 2014 Phelan-Segur has another fifteen to twenty years of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2038- 93


2016 Chateau Phelan-Segur- The 2016 Phelan-Segur is an outstanding wine from this exciting vintage for the left bank of Bordeaux. Needing a two hour decant to really evolve, the wine shows wonderful violets aromatics that connect with shades of Turkish coffee, blackberry pie and cassis that all meld together in the glass. The palate has a wonderfully seamless mouthfeel, as this glides once on the attack. Layers of black fruits mingle with coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, anise and exotic spices on the palate. The length here adds to the effect. Rich, yet showing great poise, this gorgeous wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2024-2040- 93

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The talented Mark Fiore has crafted a gorgeous new lineup for EFESTE.

The talented Mark Fiore has crafted a gorgeous new lineup for EFESTE.

EFESTE

September 14, 2020

Today we share one of the great Woodinville outposts. It is hardly a secret that EFESTĒ has produced consistently good wines for more than a decade and also boasts one of the most popular (and fun) wine clubs in Washington State. I have personally attended some of their summer gatherings that are lively and filled with their great lineup of wines. 

Mark Fiore, formerly with K Vintners, is crafting some beautiful wines at EFESTE. A former PGA Professional, Mark worked two harvest seasons at Beresan and Balboa wineries, which led him to an all-encompassing job with Charles Smith Wines in August of 2011. Mark began making wine for K Vintners and then worked on other projects such as Sixto, Latta Wines, Wines of Substance and B Leighton in Walla Walla and Seattle. He is a delightful guy to chat wine with and has made some outstanding wines across the board for EFESTĒ  were gorgeous across the board. This is one of the great overall lineups in Washington. Look to their gorgeous new 2019 EFESTĒ ‘Lola’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which is one of the great wines of its kind made in Washington with its silky texture and glorious weight. This wine has amazing texture and delicate red fruits with gobs of acidity. I absolutely loved their 2017 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) which is a massive wine that is showing brilliantly in its youth and has a very long life ahead of it. Learn more about these outstanding new wines at https://efeste.com Here are the gorgeous new wines by EFESTĒ. 

EFESTE Sept 2020 Lineup.jpg

2019 EFESTĒ ‘Feral’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2019 ‘Feral’ Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from the ‘Evergreen Vineyard’ in the Ancient Lakes AVA. Kiwi and gooseberry tones combine with shades of damp earth and smoky minerals on the nose. The palate shows wonderful astringency and texture as bright green apple and green papaya tones combine with minerals, wet stone and lemon zest flavors. This intense Sauvignon Blanc is awesome now and won’t improve with age. Drink 2020-2024- 92

2019 EFESTĒ ‘Adrienne’ Chenin Blanc- EFESTE has sourced from the famed ‘Rothrock Vineyard’ which has produced outstanding old vine Chenin Blanc. Best out of a Burgundy glass, this shows awesome range from kumquat to Pink Lady apple and nutmeg infused Challah bread tones on the palate. The combination of mouthfeel, length and tension really makes this something extra special. Drink 2020-2028- 92


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Lola’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Lola’ Chardonnay was sourced from the ‘Evergreen Vineyard’ in the Ancient Lakes AVA. Toasty oak tones combine with Japanese pear, roasted pineapple and sourdough bread on the nose. The palate has sensational viscosity as this silky smooth wine effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Deep orchard fruits mingle with minerals, damp earth and a touch of mango on the palate. This glorious effort has some really good aging potential, as this will evolve into more nutty and earthy tones. Drink 2020-2030- 93


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Paulie’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Paulie’ is named after the oldest son of EFESTE owners Kevin and Angela Taylor. A blend of 42% Mouvedre, 33% Grenache and the remainder Syrah, this shows off wonderful spicy tones on the nose with shades of smoked brisket, blackberry pie, red cherry candy, and lighter orange rind undertones on this highly complex bouquet. The palate is soft with its fantastic sense of tension and mouthfeel. Layers of pretty red and dark fruits meld with minerals, baking spices, and tar. With good length and viscosity this fantastic new Washington Rhone style wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 93


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Jolie Bouche’ Syrah- The inky-hued ‘Jolie Bouche’ Syrah was sourced from the EFESTE Estate Vineyard in the Yakima Valley AVA. Once on the nose this takes on layers of dark fruits, smoke and chocolate tones woven together with suggestions of sagebrush that all dance together in the glass. The palate is dense and juicy with tons of great acidity and a good feeling of minerality. Blackberry compote, creosote and milk chocolate flavors with garrigue undertones all march in unison. This is simply awesome Syrah to enjoy in its youth, as the 2018 ‘Jolie Bouche’ has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 93


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Eleni’ Syrah- The 2018 ‘Elini’ is sourced from the esteemed ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ in the Yakima Valley. Wonderful blueberry cordial and mocha tones mingle with smoky minerals on the nose. The palate is dense and highly gratifying. Layers of rich dark fruits collide with minerals, smoked brisket, blueberry pie and dark chocolate shavings. The long finish provides the perfect crescendo. Highly gratifying in its youth, this will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 94


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Emmy’ Red Wine- The ‘Emmy’ is a fantastic 100% Syrah entirely sourced from Red Mountain. The wine is dense and hedonistic yet has a fantastic sense of acidity, as the weight doesn’t overwhelm. Layers of bittersweet chocolate and kirsch collide with minerals, smoked meats and blackberry pie. This finishes very long which makes this every bit gratifying. With light tannins, this rich and viscous Syrah will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2032- 94


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Ceidleigh’ Syrah- Sourced from their estate vineyard high on Red Mountain, the 2018 ‘Ceidleigh’ Syrah is a dense, gratifying and hedonistic effort by superstar winemaker Mark Fiore. Smoky tones mingle with blackberry compote and black licorice with sagebrush undertones on this intoxicating nose. The palate is fresh and balanced, yet very gratifying. The mouth-watering acidity really adds to the enjoyment as layers of dark currants, blackberry cordial, coffee grounds and underbrush flavors come together with the great sense of acidity. Fantastic to enjoy right now, this beautiful new Syrah will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 93


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc- The ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc is a limited production wine sourced from ‘Angela’s Vineyard’ on Red Mountain. Red bell pepper and kirsch tones combine with blackberry compote and mocha on the nose. The palate is fresh, showing a great viscosity and acidity. Rich dark and blue fruits mingle with minerals and firm tannins on the palate. The long finish really impresses as this fantastic new Cabernet Franc will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 93


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Taylor Mag’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This restaurant only wine was entirely sourced from Red Mountain. Ripe kirsch and scorched earth tones combine with blackberry compote on the nose. The palate is well-balanced with great viscosity and tension. Beautiful bright black fruits combine with tar and coffee grounds on the palate. This is seriously good stuff for the price. Drink 2020-2028- 92


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Final Final’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Final Final’ is a blend of 55% Syrah with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. The smoky aromatics from the Syrah really entice as bright red rose petals, blackberry cordial and dried herbal aromatics all dance in the glass. The palate is dense, chewy and downright delicious, delivering copious dark fruits that mingle with exotic spices, damp terroir and smoked brisket tones. Gorgeous to enjoy right now, this has another eight to ten years ahead of it. Drink 2020-2028- 92


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Upright’ Merlot- The ‘Upright’ Merlot was sourced from the ‘Taylor Mag Vineyard’ on Red Mountain. Once on the nose this takes on ripe red cherry cordial, woven together with creosote, coffee grounds and shades of milk chocolate that all take shape in the glass. The palate is dense and chewy with gorgeous red and dark fruits with dark chocolate shavings, mocha and creosote tones. Delicious to savor right now in its glorious youth, this beautiful Merlot has at least another decade ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 93


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Estate’ Petit Verdot- This limited production bottling by Mark Fiore is a scintillating new effort from Red Mountain. Beautifully textured, with great minerality and viscosity, the wine unveils lighter green bell pepper tones with blueberry pie, Turkish coffee and light tannins that line the core of dark fruits. The very long finish completes this great wine that has a very long life ahead of it. Give this an hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2035- 93


2018 EFESTE ‘Nana’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Nana’ is a blend of 62% Merlot with 30% Cabernet Franc and just a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon. Lighter red bell pepper tones combine with chocolate covered red cherry, coffee grounds and shades of baking spices that all meld in the glass. Soft and round, with a silky mouthfeel, this outstanding wine shows a great combination of red and dark fruits, with minerals and tar on the palate. Outstanding to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 93


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Big Papa’ is an homage to Russell Salvatore Ferrelli, who brought his family from Chicago to Seattle in hopes to make wine. This new edition is gorgeous with its herbal tones on the palate, with silky tannins and great viscosity. Layers of pretty red fruits dance with chocolate, espresso bean, scorched earth and the impressive length. A bit tightly wound now, this glorious Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2021-2038- 94


2018 EFESTĒ ‘Tough Guy’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Tough Guy’ is an inspired blend of nearly all Merlot (78%) with equal portions Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Bright red fruits dance with sagebrush and suggestions of baking spices on the nose. The palate is soft and round, with its silky texture. Bright red cherry candy and milk chocolate tones combine with herbal undertones on the palate. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 93

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Here we have Brian Grasso and Brandee Slosar, founders of Structure Cellars.

Here we have Brian Grasso and Brandee Slosar, founders of Structure Cellars.

Structure Cellars

September 11, 2020

I love wineries that provide great value. One of the nicest guys you will meet in Washington wine, Brian Grasso, crafts some awesome boutique wines for Structure Cellars. Structure Cellars focuses their program on high quality red wine that won’t damage your pocketbook. Located in the SoDo district it has been a joy to watch Brian’s winemaking continue to evolve over the past several years. Formerly a somm, Brian trained under Chris Sparkman of Sparkman Cellars before starting his own winery. Brian is a really easy-going, down to earth guy. He’s passionate and dedicated to making high quality, good value wines. He and his wife have also curated a really cool sparkling wine bar called 

I have very much enjoyed stopping by their winery which has a great, relaxed atmosphere and no doubt has 90s hip hop playing in the background. I loved the 2017 Structure Cellars ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which is dense, showing great terroir from this special site. Just as good as their 2017 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which has already beautifully evolved and has many years to go. Learn more about these excellent wines at structurecellars.com Here are the great new wines by Structure Cellars.


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2019 Structure Cellars ‘Oculus’ Viognier- The 2019 ‘Oculus’ Viognier shows lychee and white flowers with shades of bright pear and nectarine rind on the nose. The palate has good freshness with a soft texture. Layers of orchard fruits dance with minerals and the salty terroir on the palate. Outstanding right now, enjoy over the next several years while the bright sense of minerality remains intact. Drink 2020-2024- 91


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Bauhaus’ Syrah- Sourced from the Columbia Valley, this shows toasty oak with black currants and smoke, with chocolate tones on the nose. The palate has good depth and concentration with a deep core of dark fruits (figs, blackberries and black currants) alongside coffee ground and chocolate tones. This is complex and delicious Syrah that is best enjoyed over the next seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 91


2017 Structure Cellars ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah- Sourced from one of the famed sites for Syrah in the Yakima Valley, the 2017 ‘Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah shows smoke and wintergreen tones with the core of dark fruits on the nose. The palate has great freshness with layers of smoked brisket, bulls blood, black olive tapenade and blackberry compote. Really delicious now, this will cellar well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2029- 92


2017 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Foundation’ Syrah is a seriously good effort by Brian Grasso of Structure Cellars. Baking spices and smoky tones combine with the core of dark fruits and menthol tones on the nose. The palate shows good depth and concentration with a light dusting of salinity alongside white pepper, espresso bean, blackberry compote and leather tones. Full-bodied, yet showing good poise, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92


2018 Structure Cellars ‘The Newel’ Red Wine- This  great blend of 60% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Syrah shows sagebrush and menthol tones alongside the dark currants, tobacco leaf and mocha tones. The palate is fresh and vibrant with layers of dark fruits and a good acidity, with light tannins mingling with the tobacco, sagebrush and milk chocolate tones. Drink 2020-2027- 91


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Bartizan’ Red Wine- The ‘Bartizan’ is an intriguing blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc (33%) with equal parts Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon (17%). The palate is dense and chewy with ripe dark currants, blackberry compote, tobacco leaf and chocolate tones. Drink 2020-2027- 90


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Spire’ Merlot- The 2018 ‘Spire’ Merlot is another great effort by the talented Brian Grasso. Once on the nose this takes on dense kirsch with sagebrush and tobacco leaf tones. The palate is soft and inviting, showing great length and varietal typicity. Layers of dark fruits and chocolate are woven together with minerals and sweet pipe tobacco on the palate. Enjoy this great wine over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2029- 91


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Piloti’ Cabernet Franc- The ‘Piloti’ Cabernet Franc shows nice herbal tones that mingle with chocolate and coffee grounds, with a core of black fruits on the nose. The palate is dense with good freshness and length, showing a good combination of blue and black fruits with minerals, red bell pepper and coffee ground tones.This is wonderfully classic Washington Cabernet Franc, as the 2018 ‘Piloti’ will enjoy another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2029- 92


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Franc- A barrel selection wine, the ‘Foundation’ shows red bell pepper with sagebrush and dark currants on the nose. The palate is soft, round and generous with silky tannins. Showing a good core of dark fruits, alongside herbal and chocolate tones, this beautiful new Cabernet Franc will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Craftsman’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Craftsman’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows firm tannins and good grip with ripe blackberry compote, sagebrush, tar and shades of black currant cordial on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with good length, this should cellar well for a decade. Drink 2020-2029- 91


2017 Structure Cellars ‘Upland Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Upland Vineyard’ Caberent Sauvignon shows creosote tones woven together with black currants and tobacco leaf on the nose. sThe palate is dense and rich, with good acidity and layers of dark fruits that combine with sagebrush and milk chocolate on the palate. Great to enjoy now at the three year mark this beautiful wine will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92


2017 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- One of the hallowed sites for Caberent Sauvignon in the state, the ‘Wallula Vineyard’ is a highly scenic site right on the Columbia River in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Anise and creme de cassis combine with tobacco leaf and sagebrush tones on the nose. The palate is dense, chewy and highly gratifying with layers of blueberry compote and mocha that are woven together with tar, anise and creme de cassis tones. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and great length, this outstanding bottling by Brian Grasso will enjoy another fifteen years or more in the cellar. Drink 2020-2035- 93


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a seriously good effort from this SoDo house. Fresh sage and smoky undertones combine with mocha, tar and blackberry pie tones on the nose. The palate has good freshness and balance with layers of dark fruits that combine with smoke, pipe tobacco and shades of coffee grounds. With fabulous length, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92


2018 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Malbec- Brian Grasso has steadily been gaining a strong reputation for his Malbec year after year. This outstanding effort has white pepper with blue and dark fruits on the nose with shades of violets and exotic spices. The palate has good freshness and a light dusting of salinity alongside the core of dark and blue fruits, white pepper and chocolate covered espresso bean tones. Gorgeous to enjoy now, this beautiful wine has another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2030- 92

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Louis Skinner has crafted a beautiful new range of Oregon Pinot Noirs for SUNU.

Louis Skinner has crafted a beautiful new range of Oregon Pinot Noirs for SUNU.

SUNU

September 9, 2020

I love winery projects that show outstanding range and terroir. Today we share an outstanding new Pinot Noir project started by Louis Skinner of Betz Family Winery. SUNU refers to the French statement which means emphasis on vineyard as the primary engine of wine quality and character, “Sous Nous,” which means “under us.”  Louis crafts his wines from some outstanding vineyards in the Willamette Valley including two wines from the famed Shea Vineyard. Each site has its individual expression of Pinot Noir. Unabashedly a Burgundy lover, I  know how passionate Louis is with these wines.  Considering that he has not made Pinot Noir very long, I am really impressed what he can do with this varietal.

I was very impressed with these wines last year and this year’s wines come from the warm 2018 vintage, one that saw exceedingly warm temperatures in the summer and slightly cooler conditions at harvest. I have been impressed with what I have seen from this vintage in general and the SUNU wines show the ripeness of the vintage with a nice level of finesse. I really enjoyed the 2018 SUNU Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which is sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards and has a good texture and mouthfeel. Even better was their 2018 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard East Hill’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which is delicate and round, showing gobs of mouth-watering acidity and very pretty red fruits. Learn more about this exciting new Oregon project at https://www.sunuwines.com Here are the beautiful new Pinot Noir wines by SUNU.


2018 SUNU ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir shows forward and delicious ripe red fruits with shades of orange zest and peat moss on the palate. Nicely textured, with good length, this great new wine will be best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2020-2028- 91


2018 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard, West Hill’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Shea Vineyard, West Hill’ Pinot Noir shows pretty guava and ripe red raspberry tones that combine with suggestions of cardamom and peat moss on this complex bouquet. The palate is elegant, with a soft mouthfeel and loads of ripe red fruits, with damp earth nuances. Ripe and rich, with a good acid backbone, the 2018 ‘Shea Vineyard, West Hill’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for another decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 93


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2018 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard, East Hill’ Pinot Noir- Needing some time in the decanter to fully evolve, the 2018 SUNU ‘Shea Vineyard, East Hill’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous effort by the talented Louis Skinner. On the nose this takes on a rich core of bright red fruits with shades of Mandarin orange rind, baking spices and damp earth tones. The palate is ripe and generous with a great dusting of salinity that produces a mouth-watering effect. Layers of ripe teaberry and guava combine with blood orange and wet stone undertones. Fantastic to savor in its youth, this beautiful wine from the esteemed Shea Vineyard will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2032- 93


2018 SUNU ‘Saffron Fields’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Saffron Fields’ Pinot Noir shows rich boysenberry, pomegranate seed and damp earth tones on the palate with good viscosity and tension. Not for the weary, with an excellent combination of weight and acidity, this great new wine will show well over the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92


2018 SUNU ‘Lonesome Rock’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Lonesome Rock Vineyard’ is set at 700 feet, as this wine features Dijon clone 667 and 777. Once on the nose this shows pretty red fruits with potpourri and exotic spices alongside the earthy undertones of the wine. The palate has great stony character with layers of pretty red fruits with blood orange rind, tobacco and shades of salty damp earth. This has great length as the 2018 ‘Lonesome Rock Vineyard’ will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2032- 93


2018 SUNU ‘Matteri’ Pinot Noir- Set in a windswept northwest corner of the Willamette Valley, the ‘Matteri Vineyard’ Pinot Noir by SUNU utilizes clones 115 and 777. Shades of teaberry and orange rind collide with guava and wild mushroom on the nose. The palate has great acidity and a mouth-watering finish as you enjoy the core of tart red fruits and peat moss tones on the palate. Really good to enjoy even in its youth, the 2018 ‘Matteri’ Pinot Noir is a formidable effort that will cellar well over the next ten plus years. Drink 2020-2032- 93

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Brent Stone crafts some beautiful wines for King Estate.

Brent Stone crafts some beautiful wines for King Estate.

King Estate

September 9, 2020

One of the west coast’s most beautiful wineries, King Estate is nestled in the southern end of the Willamette Valley. King Estate is one of the few wineries in North America (potentially the only one) where more vines of Pinot Gris are grown than any other varietal. There is a reason for this — year after year King Estate delivers two of the best Pinot Gris bottling in the state, with their entry level wine and their top of the line ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris. I have had every ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris back to 2011 and I have been pretty overwhelmed with the quality in this bottling which shows amazing texture and range. These also age marvelously as I did a retrospective on these wines a few years back and found them to be standout wines in even hot vintages.

I recently visited this winery and met with their winemaker, Brent Stone, who has been at the helm since 2011. He has become a sensational winemaker, crafting beautiful Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir wines. He has crafted an outstanding new wine with his 2018 King Estate Pinot Gris (WWB, 90) which is really showing good freshness and bright kiwi and gooseberry fruits. One of the outstanding Pinot Gris bottling I have had in the past year, their 2017 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris (WWB, 93) which is wonderfully dense and shows incredible opulence and texture. This wine has a wonderful seamless quality that impresses with the great sense of minerality. This is one to pick up by the case. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at https://www.kingestate.com


2016 King Estate ‘Brut Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine- This spent extensive time aging in the bottle, as the 2016 ‘Brut Cuvee’ shows yeasty and sourdough bread tones aromatically with baking spices and lemon zest tones shining together in the glass. The palate shows good freshness with a light dusting of salinity across green apple, green papaya, smoky minerals and shades of  wild mushroom. The length and mouthfeel is really nice here as this great new wine will be best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2020-2028- 91

2018 King Estate Sauvignon Blanc-Shades of green papaya and green apple greet you aromatically. The palate has great freshness with lighter green apple and melon tones with shades of lemon zest and minerals. Drink 2020-2023- 89


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2018 King Estate Pinot Gris-The 2018 Pinot Gris by King Estate has great verve with a soft texture. Layers of kiwi and gooseberry with wet stone and green apple flavors greet you. This is pretty serious stuff for the price. Drink 2020-2026- 90


2018 King Estate Chardonnay-A newer wine to the King Estate lineup, the 2018 King Estate Chardonnay has layers of lemon cream and citrus zest with nutty undertones that round out the palate. Enjoy in the short-term while its freshness remains. Drink 2020-2023- 89


2019 King Estate Rose- A pretty bright pink, the 2019 Rose shows bright minerals with lighter orange rind and watermelon and sour cherry tones on the palate. Lithe and refreshing, enjoy this great new rose in the short-term. Drink 2020-2023- 90


2017 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris-The 2018 ‘Domaine Pinot Gris by King Estate is a sensational new effort from this famed Willamette Valley estate. On the nose this takes on salted macadamia nut with shades of lemongrass and kumquat that all take shape in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with gobs of minerality and a truly gratifying texture. The length of the wine is seriously impressive. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth the 2018 ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2020-2028- 93


2018 Inscription Pinot Noir- Forward and fruity, the 2018 Inscription Pinot Noir leads with bright black cherry and damp earth tones on the palate, with lighter minerals. Drink 2020-2023- 88


2017 King Estate Pinot Noir-The 2017 King Estate Pinot Noir has lighter cola tones with bright red fruits and citrus rind accents on the nose. The palate is fresh, showing good balance with medium-bodied red cherry, red raspberry, underbrush and damp earthy tones. The soft texture really enties. Drink 2020-2028- 90


2018 King Estate Piinot Noir- Fruity, forward and bold, this shows the great warmth of the vintage. Layers of pretty red fruits dance with cola, rose water and citrus rind accents on the palate. The length here is really good as the 2018 King Estate Pinot Noir is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 90


2016 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir is a stellar new bottling from this storied house. Loads of black truffles and damp earth aromatics come together with wild blackberry and shades of smoke that all take shape in the glass. The palate is vibrant, showing good weight and a soft texture. Layers of dark and red fruits dance with minerals, peat moss and baking spices on the palate. Delightful to enjoy right now the 2016 ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2032- 92


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Here I am pictured with a Napa legend, John Kongsgaard.

Here I am pictured with a Napa legend, John Kongsgaard.

Kongsgaard

September 8, 2020

One of the iconic producers of Chardonnay in North America, Kongsgaard was founded by a fifth generation Napan,  John Kongsgaard. The Kongsgaard family have been in the Napa area since the 1840s. John’s grandfather owned a stone quarry in Napa and John’s father was a Napa County Superior Court judge for more than twenty years. Following graduating high school in the late 1960’s the completed the UC Davis masters in enology and viticulture program. For a short time he worked at the Stony Hill winery in Napa and then worked for at Newton Vineyards as the winemaker from 1983 to 1996. John also studied under eminent wine consultant Michel Rolland. He has a Burgundian feel to all his wines and John has indicated that Michel Rolland had a profound influence in his style of winemaking. In 2004 John bought a 150 acre parcel of land on Atlas Peak where vines planted sit at as far up as 2500 feet. His property has a mere five acres planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Roussanne and Viognier.

I have been massively impressed with the past several releases of their Chardonnay. The 2016 Kongsgaard ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay (WWB, 95) is one of the great Chardonnays I have sampled over the past year. This is Napa Chardonnay at its best with the incredible combination of length, viscosity and tension. Learn more about this magical winery at http://www.kongsgaardwine.com Here are my tasting notes from the 2016 Chardonnay release by Kongsgaard.

2016 Kongsgaard ’Napa Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2016 Kongsgaard Chardonnay is a sensational wine that is showing its full-throttle decadence now at the four year mark. Once on the nose this takes on layers of vanilla Creme brûlée and butterscotch woven together with mango and pineapple upside down cake that all meld together in the glass. The palate is silky smooth and wonderfully viscous. Ripe banana and roasted pineapple intermingle with baking spice infused challah bread, and Meyer lemon creme brûlée flavors. Gorgeous to enjoy in its youth, this beautiful Chardonnay will Cellar well for more than a decade to come. Drink 2020-2035- 95

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Here are the gorgeous 2018 Sauvignon Blancs by HALL.

Here are the gorgeous 2018 Sauvignon Blancs by HALL.

HALL Sauvignon Blanc

September 7, 2020

I love writing about wines that you may not always expect from a producer. Those little surprises make a winery really tick every box. For HALL, Cabernet Sauvignon has been their undeniable recipe for success. But they also have an incredible lineup of Sauvignon Blanc wines that some may have never tried. 

Sauvignon Blanc is a varietal that is sometimes passed aside as not serious or complex. I think the range of this varietal can be nothing short of stunning. Those who have never had Didier Dagueneau wines from the Loire Valley, will no doubt be pretty surprised what this varietal can do. In Napa there are some stunning renditions of this varietal, and Sonoma can do just as well. 

HALL makes two fantastic Sauvignon Blanc wines, one from Sonoma and another from Napa. The price is fantastic on both, these are great wines to enjoy for the final few warm days of summer. Here are my reviews of the beautiful new Sauvignon Blanc wines by HALL. 

2018 HALL ‘Napa Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2018 Hall Sauvignon Blanc is a terrific effort by this talented winemaking team. On the nose this takes on an alluring bouquet of crushed white flowers with citrus blossom and shades of green apple. The plate combines wonderful freshness and soft texture with copious orchard fruits that combine with lemon oil and minerals. Enjoy this beautiful Sauvignon Blanc in the short term. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2019 HALL ‘Knight’s Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2019 ‘Knight’s Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc is a gogroues new effort from HALL. Aged for 10 Months in 20% New French Oak, the wine was sourced from the Blau Vineyard. The texture here is utterly sensational as this unveils layers of beeswax and honeydew melon that combine with minerals, lemon rind, kiwi and shades of challah bread on the palate. Dense and downright delciiuosu, this gorgeous new Sauvignon Blanc will cellar well over the next seven plus years. Drink 2020-2028- 93

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I had a great visit to Fielding Hills in July, as we socially distanced and enjoyed some wines on their brilliant patio.

I had a great visit to Fielding Hills in July, as we socially distanced and enjoyed some wines on their brilliant patio.

Fielding Hills

September 4, 2020

If you are in Lake Chelan County, Fielding Hills is a must stop for their impressive range of wines, from crisp Rose to rich and layered Malbec. Founded by Karen and Mike Wade, for Fielding Hills everything begins in the vineyard. Their Riverbend Vineyard was planted in 1998, located in the Wahluke Slope AVA. The site is a southern facing slope in the middle of an organic orchard, as Red Delicious apples were pulled out and Riverbend Estate Vineyard was planted.

Mike Wade began making wines in 2000 and he was immediately met with critical acclaim being named a ‘Rising Star’ by Wine Spectator magazine. In 2014 Fielding Hills hired winemaker Tyler Amour to take over the program and he has crafted a brilliant new set of wines. Look to the great 2019 Fielding Hills Rose (WWB, 90) which has great freshness and vibrant red fruits. I love the 2017 Fielding Hills ‘Tribute’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which is dense and rich, with a good amalgamation of black fruits and tension. Learn more about these great wines at thttps://www.fieldinghills.com Here are the wonderful new releases by Fielding Hills.

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2019 Fielding Hills Rose- Geared towards freshness this highly energetic wine shows layers of pretty red fruits with citrus rind and wet stone flavors on the palate. Lithe and vibrant, this is best enjoy in its youth while the great level of acidity remains intact. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2018 Fielding Hills Roussanne- The 2018 Fielding Hills Roussanne shows a great combination of tension, weight and mouthfeel once on the palate. Medium-bodied with lovely lychee, melon fruits and minerals, this is one to enjoy over the next five years. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2018 Fielding Hills Chardonnay- The 2018 Fielding Hills Chardonnay has great balance and poise, with a soft mouthfeel. Layers of baked apple and pear greet you with lovely baking spice and kiwi undertones on the palate. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2017 Fielding Hill Syrah- The smoky aromatics really entice as layers of dark fruits and chocolate combine aromatically. The palate is fresh and well-balanced with blackberry compote, mocha, tar and shades of black licorice that all nicely combine. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2017 Fielding Hills Cabernet Franc- Having just a touch of Syrah and cabernet Sauvignon blended in (5% each), the 2017 Fielding Hills Cabernet Franc has light red bell pepper tones that mingle with cloves, coffee grounds and rich dark fruits aromatically. The palate is fresh, showing a good sense of mouthfeel and acidity. Layers of blackberry cobbler, chocolate cake and light salty character all mingle on the palate. Well-structured with light tannins to line the core of dark fruits, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 91

2017 Fielding Hills ‘Tribute’ Red Wine- An intriguing blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Syrah, the 2017 ‘Tribute’ shows rich anise, tar and black fruits on the nose. The palate is nicely balanced, showing great tension and acidity. Layers of Black Forest Cake, cigar box, creme de cassis and mocha all deftly combine on the palate. Showing good structure as well as concentration, the 2017 ‘Tribute’ has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2017 Fielding Hills Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Fielding Hills Cabernet Sauvignon is a seriously good new release from this storied Lake Chelan estate. On the nose the herbal tones are really nice with sagebrush and wild thyme alongside the core of black fruits and espresso bean tones on the nose. The p[alate has good freshness with medium to full-bodied dark fruits that dance with minerals and coffee grounds. Drink 2020-2032- 91

2017 Fielding Hills Malbec- The 2017 Fielding Hills Malbec has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blended in. A light dusting of white pepper falls upon the rich core of dark fruits on the palate. Fantastic and powerful in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another decade. If enjoying now, be sure to give this at least an hour decant. Drink 2020-2032- 91

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Great photo here of David Larsen of Soos Creek.

Great photo here of David Larsen of Soos Creek.

Soos Creek

September 2, 2020

One of the outstanding value producers in Washington, Soos Creek is a winery you may have never heard of but one you should definitely get to know. Soos Creek was founded in 1989 by David and Cecile Larsen. David Larsen has crafted wines for more than 30 vintages now. Originally starting to make wine in the Boeing Wine Club (and even blackberry wine), David caught the wine bug thanks to inspiring trips to Europe and Napa Valley. Initially modeling his winery after Quilceda Creek, producing only one Cabernet wine, he has since expanded to making an excellent Merlot and red blends. Sourcing from some of the best vineyards in the state including Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun in Red Mountain, David makes roughly 2,000 cases each year focusing on high quality red wines. 

The pricing is downright eye-catching as some of these wines are priced under $30.00. I love the 2017 Soos Creek ‘Soleil’ Red Wine (WWB, 90) and at $20.00, this is a silky blend of mostly Merlot. A sensational value is the 2017 Soos Creek ‘Artist Series’ Red Wine (WWB, 92) which is rich and layered, showing nice herbal tones that impress. Learn more about this great boutique winery at http://www.sooscreekwine.com Here are the excellent new wines by Soos Creek.

Soos Creek Lineup Sept 2020.jpg

2017 Soos Creek ‘Soleil’ Red Wine- An outstanding value, the ‘Soliel’ is a great blend of 50% Merlot with 32% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. The Merlot is soft and beautifully balanced with layers of dark fruits that collide with chocolate covered espresso bean and earthy undertones. For a mere twenty dollars this over-delivers. Drink 2020-2027- 90

2017 Soon Creek ‘Sundance’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Sundance’ is a right bank style wine with near equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with roughly 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Really elegant with a soft mouthfeel, layers of cocoa powder and red bell pepper mingle with minerals and the core of dark fruits on the palate. Layered, with good length, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 Soos Creek ‘Terrible Beauty’ Red Wine- The ‘Terrible Beauty’ blends Elephant Mountain, Klipsun and Weinbau vineyards in this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine. The herbal tones aromatically really work well with the blackberry compote, mocha and tar tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is refined with light tannins that line the core of coffee ground, sagebrush and black fruits. Fantastic in its youth, the 2017 ‘Terrible Beauty’ will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more to come. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Soos Creek ‘Artist Series #17’ Red Wine- The 2017 Soos Creek ‘Artist Series #17’ Red Wine is a really great wine for the price. A blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2017 ‘Artist Series #17’ shows wonderful red bell pepper tones that meld with chocolate, sagebrush and creosote on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with great acidity and light tannins, this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 Soos Creek ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Red Wine is a blend of almost entirely old vine Cabernet Sauvignon with just a touch of Merlot. The palate is wonderfully balanced creating a seamless effect. With juicy acidity, the wine unveils layers of dark currants, boysenberry compote and espresso bean with herbal undertones playing second chair.  This is delicious wine to savor in its youth, as the 2017 ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Red Wine will enjoy a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 92

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