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Here we have the utterly sensational 2018 FIGGINS Red Wine.

Here we have the utterly sensational 2018 FIGGINS Red Wine.

FIGGINS

June 29, 2021

Today it is my pleasure to share one of the storied houses in Washington, based in Walla Walla. Figgins is magic project formed by Walla Walla native, Chris Figgins — truly one of the great talents of the Pacific Northwest. What was originally a wheat farm, the 32 acre Figgins Estate Vineyard was first planted in 2004 and plays host to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Originally Figgins Estate only made two wines each year, a Riesling and a Red Blend and more recently they have started to produce a wine made of Merlot and Petit Verdot, their ‘Figlia’ which is a beautiful tribute to Chris’s two daughters. The Figgins Estate is quite simply producing some of the best Petit Verdot if not THE best Petit Verdot in the Pacific Northwest.

The Figgins Red Wine is always a proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is a wine of serious cellaring potential akin to the Leonetti wines that Chris has been so famous for. I have been marvelously impressed with how older vintages of this wine has showed. In the past year I have tried both the 2012 and 2013 — both of which were slightly austere upon release and absolutely glorious now. These examples show that the Figgins Red Wine has some incredible aging potential that rivals Leonetti bottlings. 

I was enamored by the new release, the 2018 Figgins Red. Wine (OB, 97) which is the best Figgins red wine that I have ever tasted. Harmonious and highly evocative (particularly with the herbal edge and chocolate tones from the Petit Verdot), this is a masterpiece from Chris Figgins where you can see every working part of the orchestra playing in unison together.  Learn more about these incredible wines at http://www.figginswine.com Here are my notes of the 2018 Figgins Red Wine. 


2018 FIGGINS Red Wine- This is now the second time that I’ve had the pleasure to taste the utterly glorious 2018 FIGGINS Red Wine, a blending masterpiece by Chris Figgins and his winemaking team. This thing is massive monster of a wine that really needs several hours of air to get going. But once tamed, aromatics literally explode out of the glass, unveiling dark currants, roasted figs, black rose petals and creosote tones with shades of green bell pepper from the Petit Verdot blended in. The palate is pillowy and opulent once on the mouth. Layers of creme de cassis, anise, violets, dark cherry cordial, graphite and espresso bean with green bell pepper undertones all brilliantly combine with a vibrant sense of tension. Firm tannins hold everything in place. While this is extraordinary to savor upon release, try your best to resist this beautiful wine for at least a few more years. Drink 2025-2050- 97

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Here we have the fantastic range of wines by Devium.

Here we have the fantastic range of wines by Devium.

Devium Vertical Tasting

June 28, 2021

As our summer turns up the heat, I wanted to share one of the outstanding boutique wineries in Walla Walla, now complete their their own tasting room in the airport district of Walla Walla. Keith Johnson of Sleight of Hand fame started his own project winery a few years back by utilizing a great fruit source, the ‘French Creek Vineyard.’ This is a south-facing site that has some relatively old vines and is planted to a range of varietals, from Chardonnay to high density plantings of Rhone red grapes such as Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. Set on silt loam soils, the site is located high atop the Yakima River and lies at the edge of canyon allowing for great air drainage especially during spring frosts. 

Before we tasted the red wines, we ran through his lineup of Devium sparkling wines which is a Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs from the famed Cello Vineyard. These wines were spectacular and will be released later. The wine has a silky mousse and a wonderful sense of tension. This is highly fresh Chardonnay sparkling wine that are going to age brilliantly.

As for the vertical I saw a common vein of salty soils and great terroir in each of the wines. he ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wines all really impressed. Their 2015 wine was really impressive and is showing brilliantly even with the heat spikes that occurred which made it more difficult to construct wines with freshness, good flavor density and flavor range. The 2018 Devim Red Wine was really young and fresh but had such a vibrant sense of acidity. More evolved was the beautiful 2017 Devium Red Wine which weighs in at less than 13% alcohol and shows really good flavor and aromatic range, almost Burgundian in the wine’s approach with its incredible finesse and construction. Keith has asked me not to score these wines but for my palate, each oft these showed beautifully. Learn more at deviumwine.com Here are my tasting notes from a glorious vertical tasting. 


2015 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- The wine is nearly all Mourvedre (90%) with a touch of Syrah and Grenache Blanc. Stony accents come together with red cherry preserves, hoisin sauce and charcuterie. This is delicious wine that is truly unique. This shows good flavor density and range considering the heat of the vintage. 


2016 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine-The 2016 blends 76% Mourvedre with the remainder Syrah and a touch of Grenache Blanc. The wine comes off quite peppercorn driven with a heavy dose of white pepper. The wine is considerably more youthful than the 2015, showing great verve. Layers of wild blackberry and smoked brisket combine with orange rind 


2017 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- 81% Mourvedre with 18% Syrah and a smash of Grenache Blanc, the wine weighs in at only 12.7% alcohol. This was picked extremely late. Peppered bacon falls on the nose with violets, orange blossom and pretty red fruits. The palate is soft and fresh, highly linear. Layers of huckleberry with green olives combine with salted Parma ham, giving this a very savory edge. 


2018 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine is a beautiful, finesse-driven wine. The palate is very saline-driven with a savory edge. Black olive tapenade and salted meats combine with a great core of dark fruits. This is just an infant. 


2019 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2019 Devium ‘French Creek Vineyard’ blends 70%Mourvedre with 28% Syrah and a dollop of Grenache Blanc. The flavor range here is outstanding from black fruits to Parma ham, black olives and shades of smoky, smoldering stones. 

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Seth Kitzke has created another stunning range of wines that show finesse and beautiful texture.

Seth Kitzke has created another stunning range of wines that show finesse and beautiful texture.

Upsidedown Wine

June 28, 2021

Seth Kitzke has slowly become one of the great young talents in Washington wine. Due to the pandemic, I had last met with Seth at my 2020 Washington Wine Blog event more than a year ago. This time we were tasting together at his exciting new production facility outside of Richland, Washington. 

A few years back Seth and his wife, Audrey founded Upsidedown Wine, a winery that contributes to several great causes. The winery gives back through every bottle of their wine sold. If you order direct or join their wine club, 20% of the proceeds go to support these non-profit charity organizations including the Young & Brave organization. This is for a seriously good cause. Seth has now been in the industry for many years, having studied wine under Regina Daigneault, and previously working with Brennon Leighton at K Vitners/Charles Smith Wines as well as Brian Carter Cellars with Brian Carter.

Seth has a love for texture in his wines. The wines he crafts have really good mouthfeel and finesse. A killer value is his 2020 Upsidedown Wine Rescue Rose (OB, 91) which was one of the top wines on my 2021 Pacific Northwest Rose Report. I loved his F@*#!! ‘Birds + Things + Flowers’ Syrah (OB, 92) which is a sensational value and shows great finesse and range. Do not miss out on the deeply concentrated 2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Lalonde’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which is a limited production, seamless wine that is more full-throttle off of Red Mountain. Learn more about this great winery at http://drinkupsidedownwine.com Here are the excellent new wines by Seth Kizke and by Upsidedown Wine and Kitzke Family Wines. 


2020 Upsidedown Wine ‘Rescue’ Rose- The ‘Rescue’ Rose saw a touch of puncheon fermentation as this was largely aged in stainless steel. Right away the wine shows pretty white rose petals with white peach, red raspberry and stony undertones on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Layers of pretty red fruits collide with minerals, citrus rind and wet stone accents on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 91


2020 Cluster F@*#!! ‘Sans Soufre’ Grenache- The 2020 ‘Sans Soufre’ Grenache shows wet stone and pretty red fruits with kumquat zest on the nose. Fresh and vibrant this has a very pretty red fruit profile with wet stone and orange rind accents that connect with guava, red raspberry and red flowers. Drink 2021-2023- 90


2020 Cluster F@*#!!  Grenache- The 2020 2020 Cluster F@*#!! Grenache is sourced from the northern part of the Columbia Valley, as this yields super fresh and crunchy red fruits that combine with volcanic stones, making this a very stony profile. With great finesse, this is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 91


2019 Cluster F@*#!! ‘Birds + Things + Flowers’ Syrah- This northern Columbia Valley Syrah has 5% Viognier co-fermented in. Right away this shows off wet stone and smoky tines with pretty dark rose florals that all meld in the glass. The palate is plush and wonderfully smoky. Layers of black tea and smoked brisket with lush dark fruits and a good sense of minerality. Drink 2021-2027- 92


2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Gold Drop’ Malbec- Sourced from the ‘Dead Poplar Vineyard’ this shows off dark flowers with chocolate and blueberry compote aromatics. The palate is plush with great flavor density. Black and blue fruits with stony minerals, white pepper and really good length. This is seriously good Malbec that is built to age. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Cross Block’ Mourvedre- The 2018 ‘Cross Block’ Mourvedre is sourced from the ‘Coyote Canyon Vineyard’ in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The palate is fresh and super savory with salted meats, black olives, red cherry candy, red florals and shades of lavender. Complex, novel and highly delicious, this beautiful wine will be best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Lalonde’ Red Wine- This is a field blend from the Red Heaven Vineyard’ which is mostly Grenache and Syrah that went through 100% whole cluster fermentation. This was then aged in puncheons for 30 months before bottling. The nose is really pretty showing red florals from the Grenache alongside red currants, strawberry and smoky tones on this evocative bouquet. The palate shows good flavor density with mostly red fruits with smoked pork shoulder, charcuterie and finishing extremely long. The combination of sweet, sour and salty components really make this sing. Drink 2021-2031- 94


2018 Upsidedown Wine ‘Artist Series’ Syrah- Sourced from the ‘Candy Ridge Vineyard’ the 2018 ‘Artist Series’ as this underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation and was aged in new oak puncheon before bottling. Once on the palate this shows off pretty red rose petals with smoked brisket and black olives with salty undertones on the palate. The wine has marvelous length and tension with a silky mouthfeel. Drink 2021-2031-93


2018 The Devil Is A Liar Red Wine- A blend of Grenache, Syrah and a touch of Grenache Blanc all sourced from the WeatherEye Vineyard, this shows a very pretty red fruit profile with crushed wildflowers, orange rind, wet stone and underbrush and a beautiful sense of texture. A light dusting of salinity adds to the enjoyment as this shows incredible finesse throughout the drinking experience. Gorgeous now, this is best enjoyed over the next eight years while the wonderful freshness remains. Drink 2021-2029- 94


2019 The Devil Is A Liar Grenache (BARREL SAMPLE 93-95)


2018 Kitzke ‘Janaina Reserve’ Red Wine- A Super Tuscan style wine utilizing 75% Sangiovese with smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and CabernetFranc, the ‘Janaina Reserve’ shows off rich red and dark fruits alongside toffee and salty undertones. Drink 2021-2033- 92


2018 Kitzke Cabernet Franc- Right away this shows off nice sagebrush and black tea aromatics that all take place in the glass. Rich dark fruits collide with dark chocolate and sagebrush with salty undertones all impress on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 92


2018 Kitzke ‘Old Vine Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Old Vine Reserve’ Red Wine shows dense dark and blue fruits alongside black tea, anise and cassis flavors. The light dusting of salinity and good length really entice as this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 92


2018 Kitzke Petit Verdot- Inky once in the glass, the wine shows off black tea, blackberry cobbler, mocha and espresso bean flavors with milk chocolate undertones. Stony and fresh with salty undertones, this is dense and plush Petit Verdot that will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 92



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Now in its second generation, Fidelitas crafts some world-class red wines from Red Mountain.

Now in its second generation, Fidelitas crafts some world-class red wines from Red Mountain.

Fidelitas

June 28, 2021

Fidelitas 


One of the longtime producers on Red Mountain, I want to say that my father and I were some of the first visitors to his modern tasting facility that he launched on Red Mountain.Tasting with Charlie and his son, Will, I noticed the attention to detail and consistency over each wine. Charlie Hoppes served as former head winemaker for Chateau Ste. Michelle. Prior to working at Chateau Ste. Michelle, he attended the world renowned Viticulture and Enology program at the University of California, Davis and in 1988 he graduated with a degree in Agricultural Science and Management with a special emphasis in Viticulture and Enology. After a brief stint in Walla Walla in 1990 at Waterbrook Winery, he began working with superstar winemaker Mike Januik as a member of the winemaking team at Ste. Michelle in Woodinville. In 1993, he became the Head Red Winemaker and managed Ste. Michelle’s newest facility at the time, Canoe Ridge near Paterson, Washington. Hoppes had the pleasure of making the first vintages of Col Solare, from 1995-1998. After some time, Hoppes wanted to start his own project. Hoppes finally decided to purchase some land on Red Mountain, founding Fidelitas in 2000 -- and has produced fantastic reds and whites since that time. Fidelitas is known for their red and white Bordeaux blends, as well as their rich Cabernets. 

I was highly impressed with their range of new release wines. A wine that continues to impress each year is their 2019 Fidelitas ’4040 Red Wine’ (OB, 92) which has plenty of flavor density and chocolate tones. I absolutely love the 2018 Fidenitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec (OB, 95) which is one of the great Malbec wines that you will find in the state. This is dense and chewy but also weightless and shows a seamless texture.  Learn more about the great Fidelitas lineup at http://www.fidelitaswines.com/ Here are the great new wine releases from Fidelitas.


2019 Fidelitas ‘4040’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (63%) this shows forward and juicy red and dark fruits with tobacco and chocolate undertones. With good freshness and weight, this has another decade ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2018 Fidelitas ‘Old Vines’ Merlot- Sourced from the first plantings from the Ciel du Cheval and Kiona Vineyards, the nose takes on red cherry candy and cassis tones alongside sagebrush and milk chocolate undertones on the nose. The palate is silky and elegant with a great sense of texture. Ripe red and dark fruits collide with tobacco leaf and milk chocolate covered raspberry. Drink 2021-2033- 94


2018 Fidelitas ‘Blackwood Canyon’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this older site on Red Mountain first planted in 1984, the 2018 ‘Blackwood Canyon’ Cabernet Sauvignon opens with kirsch notes alongside smoke, scorched earth and black tea aromatic notes. The palate is soft and smooth with silky and refined tannins. Herbal undertones mark the core of bright dark fruits alongside dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2018 Fidelitas ‘Estate’ Malbec- The 2018 ‘Estate’ Malbec is the first of its kind from this estate vineyard that was planted back in 2015. Blackberry cobbler and blueberry pie combine with coffee ground and violet aromatics. The palate is plush and soft, delivering good flavor density and freshness. Black and blue fruits collide with smoke, minerals and menthol undertones on the palate. This is drinking beautifully right now and has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2021-2035- 94


2018 Fidelitas ‘Estate’ Red Wine- The Cabernet Sauvignon dominant ‘Estate’ Red Wine blends a large amount of Petit Verdot (35%) with smaller parts Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The Petit Verdot jumps out of the glass with its green bell pepper notes alongside a dusting of white pepper and a massive wall of dark fruits with dark floral undertones. The palate is dense and plush but the harmonious effect each working part really makes this sing. Drink 2021-2035- 94


2018 Fidelitas ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Entirely clone 2 and 6 Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off exotic spices and toasty oak on the nose with nutty undertones and a massive wall of dark fruits. The palate is dense and silky with great viscosity and tension. Blackberry compote, mocha, tar and herbal undertones all collide on the palate. Gorgeous and focused now, this has another twenty years to go. Drink 2021-2040- 94


2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2018 ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Merlot shows off rich cassis and dark cherry aromatics alongside exotic spices. The palate is soft and plush with chewy tannins. Layers of dense dark fruits mingle with tar, minerals and milk chocolate on the palate. Silky and refined tannins, as well as marvelous length, add to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2038- 94


2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec- Dense and hedonistic, the 2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Malbec is quite simply an astoundingly good rendition of Red Mountain Malbec. Right away this shows off a massive core of dark and blue fruits on the palate with copious minerals and beautiful balance. Full-bodied and heady, yet still showing a weightless quality, this is glorious wine that has another two decades to go. Drink 2021-2040- 95


2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Red Wine- Equal parts Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc (31% each) mark this beautiful new release from the Quintessence Vineyard. Herbal undertones combine with tar, dark currants and tobacco leaf on the nose. The palate is plush and soft with beautiful balance. Layers of red and dark fruits mingle with chocolate, scorched earth and lighter green bell pepper tones on the palate. Drink 2021-2038- 94


2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Fidelitas has been making this wine since 2012. This saw 28 months in 82% new French oak before bottling. The palate is plush and dense with intense exotic spices and black tea notes alongside blackberry cobbler, cassis and tar notes on the palate. The length, flavor density and elegance of the wine is sensational. Try to give this another year of bottle age if you can. Drink 2022-2040- 95


2018 Fidelitas ‘Quintessence Vineyard Clone 169’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Clone 169’ unveils a gorgeous nose of dark currants alongside tar, tobacco leaf and nutty undertones. The palate is very polished and soft with a beautiful sense of texture. The weightless quality of the wine is really impressive as a massive wall of dark fruits greet you alongside scorched earth, toasty oak and very refined tannins. Glorious now, this has decades of life to go. Drink 2022-2040- 95

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Some of the beautiful new wines by Gorman and Ashan.

Some of the beautiful new wines by Gorman and Ashan.

Gorman Winery and Ashan Cellars

June 24, 2021

A longstanding Woodinville winery, Gorman is founded by Chris Gorman who began his winery shortly after graduating from college in 1991. Before starting he spent 3 years working for a small Italian importer which carefully trained his palate. During that time Chris traveled extensively in the wine areas of Italy, Spain and Germany and finally started his winery in 2002. The winery has been a small operation, crafting consistently good wines from the Columbia Valley. Currently producing roughly 8,000 cases a year Chris focuses on the terroir from Red Mountain and works with great vineyards such as Kiona, Shaw and many others. They also make an excellent Chardonnay called their ‘Big Sissy.’

Speaking of Chardonnay, I have long admired his Ashan Cellars project which crafts limited production Chardonnays that showcase some of the state’s top vineyards. All three Ashan releases from the Cold Creek, Connor Lee and Celilo Vineyards are sensational across the board and are meant for serious lovers of not only Washington white wine but Sonoma and Napa Chardonnay.

Learn more about these outstanding wines at gormanwinery.com. Here are the great new wines by Chris Gorman and his Gorman Winery and Ashan Cellars. 


Gorman


2019 Gorman ‘The Devil You Don’t Know’ Red Wine- A Columbia Valley blend of 55% Syrah and 41% Grenache with 4% Mourvedre this opens with garrigue notes alongside bacon fat and  huckleberry preserves on the nose. The palate is plush, soft and generous with a pillowy mouthfeel. Dense dark fruits parade with chocolate and dried herbal undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2028- 92 


2019 Gorman ‘The Devil You Know’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘The Devil You Know’ is a proprietary blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that was aged in French oak for 18 months prior to bottling. The wine is fresh and soft, delivering ripe blackberry, roasted fig and coffee ground flavors with nice green bell pepper undertones coming from the Petit Verdot. Drink 2021-2029- 91


2019 Gorman ‘Old Scatch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 Gorman ‘Old Scratch’ is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine sourced from Red Mountain. Inky dark in the glass, this evokes graphite, scorched earth and intense dark fruits aromatically. The palate shows a velvety texture with black currants and tilled soils that march on with minerals and smoky undertones. This is really good stuff for the price. Drink 2021-2033- 92


Ashan


2019 Ashan ‘Celilo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this famed high elevation site in the Underwood Mountain region, the wine shows off saline drenched pear and toasted almond notes alongside shades of honeydew melon. The palate is plush and beautifully textured, creating a seamless effect throughout the drinking experience. Wait for the exceedingly good and long finish as this beauty has some cellaring power. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2019 Ashan ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Cold Creek VIneyard’ grows literally everything from Cabernet and Merlot to Chardonnay — however, the site has gained a really strong reputation for Chardonnay over the past decade or so. With a plump mouthfeel, seamless texture and great fruit weight, the wine shows off Golden Delicious apple, vanilla creme brulee, and nutmeg infused Challah bread flavors, finishing very long. This is very Washington meets Sonoma. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2019 Ashan ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Over the years the ‘Connor Lee Vineyard’ has become one of Washington’s premier sites for Chardonnay. Suggestions of smoke and ripe nectarine come together with baked apple and salted brioche on the nose. The palate is dense and shows great viscosity and tension, reveling in orchard and citrus fruits with vanilla cream tones. Drink 2021-2031- 93

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A few highlights from the fantastic new wines in the Grapes of Spain portfolio

A few highlights from the fantastic new wines in the Grapes of Spain portfolio

Grapes of Spain

June 24, 2021

Founded back in 2001, Grapes of Spain, Inc. imports wines exclusively from Spain and currently represents 36 producers with a portfolio of 90+ wines from all corners of Spain. All of the wines are new to the U.S. market and are from family winegrowers and that focus only on high quality and limited production. 

Aurelio Cabestrero, owner, is originally from Madrid, Spain. He worked at Madrid's Cafe de Oriente Restaurant for three years before coming to the US to work as Sommelier for Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC. He worked at Taberna del Alabardero for three years and also worked as Sommelier at Marcel's in Washington DC before pursuing his passion to import Spanish wines 

Aurelio has also won the Ruinart 1993 prize as the Best Sommelier in Spain, Best young Sommelier in 1994 by Wine and Gastronomic Magazine and came in second place at the National Sopexa Competition of French Wines and Spirits 1994. He is also founding member of Madrid Association of Sommeliers.

I’ve been tasting through Aurelio’s portfolio for many years. For a killer value, the 2020 Mar de Vinas Albarino (OB, 90) impresses with its brilliant salinity and freshness. I also really enjoyed a fantastic Rueda, the 2019 Isaac Fernandez ‘Egeo’ (OB, 91) that has great nutty tones with a polished texture. For the collectors, check out the equally good 2017 and 2018 Bodegas San Roman Toro (both OB, 95) which are incredible examples of a dense, earthy Toro wine. Learn more at grapesofspain.com and here are my notes on the new wines by Grapes of Spain. 


2020 Adegas Gran Vinum ‘Esencia Divina’ Albarino- This Rias Baixas Albarino shows melon and green papaya notes alongside shades of green apple and bright acidity. Enjoy this outstanding value with shellfish. Drink 2021-2024- 90


2020 Adegas Gran Vinum ‘Nessa’ Albarino- A touch leaner than the ‘Esencia Divina’ the wine shows gooseberry and unripe melon with good freshness. Enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2021-2024- 88


2020 Adegas Gran Vinum ‘Gran Vinum’ Albarino- The stony tones and bright acidity of the wine really entice, as layers of lemon rind and cantaloupe mingle with baking spices and a touch of French bread all entice. The soft mouthfeel adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2025- 91


2020 Mar de Vinas Albarino- Sourced from the Val do Salnes region of Rias Baixas, this shows off peach and gooseberry on the nose with saline drenched pear. The palate shows a silky texture with green papaya, green apple and a bright sense of salinity, with mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2021-2025- 90


2014 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja Blanco- The 2014 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja Blanco was aged for 36 months in mostly French oak (85%) before bottling. Just a touch of Garnacha Blanco (5%) blended into Viura, all sourced from very old vines, this shows off a plump mouthfeel with layers of buttercream, salted Marcona almond, white peach and an exceedingly long finish. This is exceedingly good for the price as this outstanding ‘Gran Reserva’ has another fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2021-2035- 93


2020 Vina Otano Rose- Sourced from Garnacha vines, this shows pretty red cherry and red raspberry notes with melon and minerals on the palate. Drink 2021-2024- 88


2020 Bodegas Casa La Rad ‘Solarce’ Rose- Soft, with good finesse, the ‘Solarce’ is an awesome value that has a light dusting of salinity that runs through its core. Layers of red raspberry and pomegranate seed mingle with minerals and smoky undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 90


2019 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero- Forward and juicy dark fruits with tobacco leaf mark the nose. The palate is fresh with a nice texture. Layers of roasted figs and blackberry complement the good level of acidity here. Drink 2021-2025- 90


2018 Bodegas Arrocal ‘Seleccion’ Ribera del Duero- Aged for eighteen months in oak, this shows off ripe red cherry with black currants and coffee ground undertones. The palate is dense and rich with good finesse. Layers of ripe dark fruits collide with smoke and chocolate tones. Try to give this another year in the cellar before enjoying. Drink 2023-2035- 92


2016 Bodegas Arrocal ‘Angel’ Ribera del Duero- The 2016 ‘Angel’ was aged for 20 months in French oak before bottling. Toasted dates, chocolate covered espresso bean and tar all fill the nose. The palate shows a soft mouthfeel creating a pillowy effect. A deep combination of red and dark fruits collide with tobacco leaf, chocolate, and leather all combine on the palate. With good finesse and weight, this beautiful wine has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2038- 93


2020 Isaac Fernandez ‘Egeo’ Rueda- Made from 100% Verdejo grapes, the ‘Egeo’ entices with its soft mouthfeel. Ripe necatarine, Japanese pear, wet stone, baking spices and shades of Macadamia nut and lemon zest dusted sourdough bread all entice on the palate. A serious value, with a great combination of acidity and salinity, enjoy this fantastic Rueda over the next five years. Drink 2021-2026- 91


2020 Isaac Fernandez ‘Bovale’ Rose- Sourced rom the Utel-Requena D.O.P. this Bobal based Rose shows light red fruits that dance with tiled soils and salty undertones. Drink 2021-2024- 88 


2019 Isaac Fernandez ‘Rios de Tinta’ Ribera del Duero- the ‘Rios de Tinta’ shows forward red and dark fruits with menthol and sage undertones. Fresh and medium-bodied, enjoy this effort over the next five plus years. Drink 2021-2026- 90


2019 Isaac Fernandez ‘Finca la Mata’ Ribera del Duero- This Crianza style saw eight months of oak aging prior to bottling. Damp earth and peat moss alongside chocolate and coffee ground flavors greet you with huckleberry tones. Drink 2021-2027- 90


2017 Elias Mora ‘Descarte’ Toro- Sourced from 40 year old vines, this smells rich of tobacco, dusty soils and chocolate once on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Ripe dark currants mingle with blackberry and dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Drink 2021-2028- 91



2018 Elias Mora ‘Vinas’ Toro- Aged for six months in American oak, the ‘Vinas’ exudes a fresh and vibrant style of Toro touches on toasty oak that wraps around smoky minerals, sage, black currants and chocolate covered Arabica bean flavors. Dense and chewy, with firm tannins, this has another decade or more to go. Drink 2021-2031- 91


2017 Elias Mora ‘Crianza’ toro- Sourced from 50 year old vines, the 2017 ‘Crianza’ this was aged for 12 months in 50% new American oak before bottling. Deep dark fruits mingle with cchoalate covered red cherry, black tea, toasty oak and exotic spices on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 92


2015 Elias Mora ‘Gran’ Toro- Deeply hued and sourced from 80 year old vines in the Senda del Lobo Vineyard, the ‘Gran’ Toro exudes class with its pillowy texture. A massive wall of red and dark fruits collide with espresso bean, huckleberry compote, leather and tilled soils on the palate. The length and generous mouthfeel add to the enjoyment here, as this has another two decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2038- 94


2018 Bodega San Roman ‘Prima’ Toro- The 2018 ‘Prima’ exudes class with its generous mouthfeel, toasty oak and dark fruit, espressos bean and chocolate flavors. Fresh with good viscosity, this has another ten years ahead of it. This is seriously good value. Drink 2021-2031- 90


2017 Bodegas San Roman Toro- The 2017 Bodegas San Roman is a monumental effort that is sourced from o60-100 year old vines set on sand, clay and gravel. Aged for 24 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels, this shows toasty oak with ripe blueberry, loamy soils, black tea, Asian spices and dark chocolate covered huckleberry aromas. The palate is pillowy and seamless, with a great beam of salinity and marvelous length. Deft and light ion its feet despite its massive core of black and blue fruits, this glorious wine has twenty years or more to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2040- 95


2018 Bodegas San Roman Toro- The 2018 Bodegas San Roman Toro comes off slightly more dense and hedonistic than the 2017 release — but every bit as good. Sourced from very old ungrafted vines, the Toro shows off serious aromatic range from graphite and tilled soils to blackberry cordial, mocha, creosote and Turkish coffee tones that sing in unison. The palate is silky and extremely elegant with a great viscosity and tension. Layers of intense cassis, ripe figs and blueberry compote combine with smoky minerals, leather, coffee grounds and tar with a dusting of salinity. The long finish lingers. Exceedingly good even at the three year mark, this is one for the cellar. Be sure to give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2021-2040- 95

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Gina Hennen crafts some beautiful wines for Adelsheim, now celebrating their 50th anniversary.

Gina Hennen crafts some beautiful wines for Adelsheim, now celebrating their 50th anniversary.

Adelsheim

June 23, 2021

Today we share one of the historic estates in Oregon that is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. It is just remarkable that this Chehalem Mountain estate was founded back in 1971. Visionary David Adelsheim had previously worked in Beaune as well as The Eyrie Vineyards before starting his own winery in Oregon. Having spent time in Burgundy, he saw the potential for producing Pinot Noir in Oregon. Today Adelsheim now owns nearly 200 acres of land, with 180 acres of vineyards as they produce a brilliant range of wines — from Rose to stony Pinot Noir. Vineyard sites range from high elevation to low elevation, as well as volcanic and sedimentary soils. 

I’ve had the chance to visit with their talented head winemaker, Gina Hennen, several times, who has been at the Adelsheim helm for more than ten years. Gina previously worked as semiconductor engineer for seven years in both Oregon and Dublin, Ireland. A former graduate of Reed College, Gina knew that her roots were in the Pacific Northwest and found her calling in winemaking.

I adored the new wines and was very impressed with her 2019 Adelshieim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is downright awesome stuff for the price. Even better is the rich and viscous 2017 Adelsheim ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay (OB, 93). I was really impressed by her 2018 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is very pretty with its ripe red fruits and earthy tones. Learn more about these beautiful new releases at http://www.adelsheim.com Here are the excellent new release wines by Adelsheim. 


2019 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- Right away a whiff of nectarine peel with baking spices entices as sourdough bread undertones add to the intrigue. The palate is soft and fresh with good density and finesse. Layers of lemon zest and French bread combine with nutty undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2026- 91


2018 Adelshiem ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, this site is the largest of Adelsheim’s estate vineyards. Ripe apricot tones mingle with starfruit and suggestions of peat moss and salted almond on the nose. The palate is plenty of finesse and weight with Meyer lemon zest dusted sourdough bread and plenty of salty and savory tones with excellent length. Glorious now, this has another eight to ten years of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2029- 92


2018 Adelsheim ‘Staking Claim’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, the 2018 ‘Staking Claim’ shows intense honeysuckle notes aromatically with ginger, baking spices and suggestions of Japanese pear. The palate is soft and refined with good length and viscosity. Layers of ripe citrus fruits collide with salted pear, minerals and smoky undertones. This is highly refined stuff that has another ten years to go. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2019 Adelsheim ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a beautiful effort from this storied estate. Once on the nose this takes on layers of tart red fruits and citrus rind undertones alongside smoky and salty accents. The palate is soft, displaying lighter to medium-bodied red cherry and pomegranate seed flavors alongside shades of blood orange zest and salty tilled soils. While obviously not a dense wine, this has gobs of finesse and shows really good value in what was a for many a challenging vintage for Oregon Pinot Noir.Drink 2021-2027- 91


2018 Adelsheim ‘Calkins Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Calkins Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was aged in 31% new French oak barrels for ten months before bottling in August 2019. The wine is comprised of mostly Dijon clones 667 and 115 with a touch of clone 777. Rich dark fruits and exotic spices mark the nose alongside shades of Shitake mushroom and pine needles. The palate is dense and plush with great tension and flavor density. Ripe dark fruits collide with red currants, orange rind and earthy undertones. Very refined even at the three year mark, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2038- 93


2018 Adelsheim ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Ribbon Springs Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a fantastic new effort that collects momentum with its combination of weight and verve. Showing a much more red fruit profile than the ‘Calkins Lane’ bottling, the wine unveils salty red fruits alongside kumquat zest, smoke and shades of cardamom on the palate. This is really elegant Pinot Noir that beautifully showcases the AVA. Drink 2021-2038- 93


2016 Adelsheim ‘Breaking Ground’ Pinot Noir- Considerably older than the other single vineyard Pinot Noirs, this 2016 bottling was aged for only eleven months in 29% French oak barrels but has seen extensive time in the bottle. Sourced from a range of soil types, the wine shows off pretty red florals and red currants alongside peat moss and wild mushroom accents on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with a great combination of red and dark fruits. The impressive length really adds to the enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2038- 94

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Marcus Goodfellow crafts some incredible wines for his namesake winery.

Marcus Goodfellow crafts some incredible wines for his namesake winery.

Goodfellow Family Wines

June 23, 2021

Marcus Goodfellow of Goodfellow Family Cellars crafts some really outstanding wines. These are wines that have great terroir but also depth and richness even in challenging vintages. What was initially founded in 2002 as Matello Winery, Goodfellow sources from some great vineyards in the Willamette Valley including the Durant Vineyard in the Dundee Hills AVA. Marcus Goodfellow, grew up on a Douglas Fir tree farm in Oregon and worked his first harvest at Evesham Wood in 2002. He had a wonderful wine mentor in famed Cristom winemaker, Steve Doerner, as his attention to detail is apparent in the glass. The wines are also all exceedingly well-priced.

2019 was not the easiest vintage with major challenges at harvest. I loved Marcus’s new Chardonnay bottlings. An awesome wine for the price, the 2019 Goodfellow ‘Whistling Ridge’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is jam packed full of acidity and shows brilliant saliniity.  I loved what he did with the 2019 Goodfellow ‘Durant Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which might not be as intensely concentrated than the 2018 edition but has insanely good length, finesse and range. Do not miss out on these new gorgeous Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines by Goodfellow. Learn more about these beautiful new releases at https://goodfellowfamilycellars.com Here are the great new wines by Goodfellow. 



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Whistling Ridge’ Pinot Gris- The sour green apple tones and freshness of the wine offers plenty of appeal as salty and nutty undertones all come together really well on the palate. What a killer foil for shellfish here. Drink 2021-2024- 91



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Whistling Ridge’ Chardonnay- The 2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Whistling Ridge’ Chardonnay shows bright green apple and lemon zest flavors alongside a bright beam of tension and saline undertones. Really good right now, this has another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 92



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Richard’s Cuvee’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the ‘Whistling Ridge Vineyard’ in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, the wine showcases hazelnut and lime zest aromas alongside sourdough bread and flinty undertones that all take shape in the glass. The palate reveals an insanely good texture with loads of minerals and lemon oil flavors alongside salted French bread and shades of Macadamia nut and mango on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 93



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Ripe melon and orchard fruits combine with wet stone and wild mushroom aromas. The palate is beautifully textured with great finesse and a light dusting of salinity. Delightful even at the two year mark, this has another decade or more to go considering its weight and bright sense of acidity. While really intense with its citrus fruits, the wine shows wonderful balance and weight. Drink 2021-2033- 93 



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Durant Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Showing a Chablis-like brightness, the 2019 ‘Durant Vineyard’ exhibits lemon oil and honeysuckle water tones alongside green melon and Pink Lady apple on the palate. Lighter cream and flinty tones add to the enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2033- 93

 

2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Pumphouse Block’ Pinot Noir-The 2019 ‘Pumphouse Block’ Pinot Noir is sourced from the famed ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard.’ The nose screams terroir with salty and smoky tones alongside ripe redcurrant and tobacco accents. The palate might not have the density of other vintages but has plenty of tart red fruits alongside salty tilled earth, orange zest, wild mushroom and a light dusting of white pepper. This tastes a bit like a top Volnay. Drink 2021-2033- 93



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Set in the Coast Range, the ‘Fir Crest Vineyard’ is a dry-farmed and remote site in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The palate is very refined and elegant with dense red fruits that combine with smoke, pine needles, blood orange zest and salty undertones. With a silky mouthfeel and great length, this has another fifteen years to go. Drink 2021-2036- 93



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Heritage No. 16’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Heritage No. 16’ was sourced from the ‘Lewman Vineyard’ located in the western portion of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Once on the nose this takes on beautiful red rose petals and cran-orange aromas alongside salty undertones. The palate is soft and round with a generous mouthfeel and gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Layers of very pure red fruits collide with white truffle, charcuterie, peat moss and a light dusting of salt and white pepper. Seriously refined, this beautiful wine will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 93



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Durant’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Durant Vineyard’ is a famed site atop the Dundee Hills. Lavender with a great combination of red and dark fruits mark the nose with earthy undertones. The palate is plush and soft with pomegranate seed and red cherry combining with smoldering stones, orange zest and shades of black truffle. Complex and delicious, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2038- 93



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Oracle’ Pinot Noir-The 2019 ‘Oracle Vineyard’ is set at more than 6500 feet in the Dundee Hills. The nose is gorgeous with cinnamon and clove infused red and dark fruits alongside shades of salted wild mushroom. The palate is dense and chewy with a great veil of salinity and tension that runs through the core of red and dark fruits. This is really impressive stuff even in its youth. Drink 2021-2038- 94



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘House Block’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘House Block’ shows off pretty red florals alongside savory and salty tones aromatically. The palate is very soft and refined, as this elegant wine unveils very pretty rose water, red currant, red cherry and guava fruit flavors, with salty and damp earth undertones. Very delicate on the mid-palate, this dazzles with its mouthfeel and bright sense of acidity. Complex and delicious even at the two year mark, enjoy this beauty over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 93



2019 Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Long Acre’ Pinot Noir- The translucent colored ‘Long Acre’ Pinot Noir is a limited production bottling from this dry-farmed site in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. The palate is soft and refined with a great veil of tension. Very delicate red fruits collide with minerals, wet stone and kumquat zest accents. The marvelous length adds to the drinking enjoyment here. Drink 2021-2036- 93





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Diamond Creek is an incredibly scenic property which was first purchased back in 1967.

Diamond Creek is an incredibly scenic property which was first purchased back in 1967.

Diamond Creek

June 22, 2021

A famed Napa house that needs little introduction, Diamond Creek was purchased by Louis Roederer in 2020 in a very exciting development. It will be really interesting to see how that influences production. What began back in  1967 with the purchased of land, The Brounsteins created both the first single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wine as well as the first $100 bottle of wine from Napa. What was quite novel for the period of time, the Brounsteins created three different wines to show each individual soil type in the vineyard which were all produced separately. 

Wines are crafted in an almost anti-Napa approach, looking for good richness but a focus on terroir, rather than fruit qualities. Wines from this estate show remarkable non-fruit character and I have certainly enjoyed many of these in my collection over the years. The new wines exude class across the board. Coming from the electric 2018 vintage, I was enamored by the 2018 Diamond Creek ‘Volcanic Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is dense and shows plenty of loamy terroir notes alongside intense non-fruit character. All three of these releases are simply electric. Learn more about this famed estate at https://www.diamondcreekvineyards.com and here are my notes on the new 2018 Diamond Creek releases. 



2018 Diamond Creek ‘Volcanic Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A killer blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.5% Merlot, 8.7% Malbec and 2.8% Petit Verdot, the 2018 ‘Volcanic Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows off a gorgeous bouquet after some air. The loamy terroir tones impress alongside dark currant cordial, mocha and tar notes that all meld in the glass. The palate is soft, elegant and highly refined. Rich dark fruits parade with chocolate covered espresso bean, tilled soils and shades of creosote on the palate. Really just an infant now, this rich and finesse-driven Cabernet Sauvignon has decades of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 96



2018 Diamond Creek ‘Gravelly Meadow’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Gravelly Meadow’ Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a cooler microclimate on the Diamond Creek estate, set on pebbly, porous brown soils. Ripe blackberries and black cherry tones combine with espresso bean, and damp earthy tones on the nose. The palate is layered and voluptuous with incredible tension and flavor density. Rich dark fruits collide with Turkish coffee, blueberry cordial and graphite on the palate. This truly extraordinary, well-balanced and dense effort will have a very long life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2040- 96



2018 Diamond Creek ‘Red Rock Terrace’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Diamond Creek ‘Red Rock Terrace’ is a sensational effort form the 2018 vintage. A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 4.5% Malbec and 4.5% Petit Verdot, this shows off exotic spices woven together with ripe black plum, cassis and coffee grounds on this gorgeous bouquet. The palate shows off a silky texture with plenty of dense dark fruits that mingle with milk chocolate, tar and anise tones on the palate. Gorgeous now to savor, this has another fifteen plus years to go. Drink 2022-2038- 95

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Here I am pictured with Dunham Cellars winemaker Rob Campisi, as we tasted through every vintage of Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ alongside Dunham general manager John Blair.

Here I am pictured with Dunham Cellars winemaker Rob Campisi, as we tasted through every vintage of Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ alongside Dunham general manager John Blair.

Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Vertical Tasting

June 22, 2021

Before I was formally reviewing wines, I saw great value in Washington wines. Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ has been a pillar of value since I first tasted this wine back in 2002. I have always been impressed with wineries that offer their products at very reasonable prices, regardless of financial conditions. While some have consistently raised their prices, Dunham Cellars has kept their prices very moderate over the past fifteen years, giving consumers a very polished product at a reasonable price.

For years I purchased the ‘Trutina’ for my personal collection as I always felt this wine over-delivered on quality for the price. Friends and I will fondly recall regularly tasting the 2006 and 2007 ‘Trutina’ wines which were outstanding upon release. About a week ago I was handed the opportunity to revisit every vintage of Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ with their general manager John Blair and their winemaker Rob Campisi. We all took a very deliberate approach as we moved from wine to wine.

The biggest surprise by far was how the first three wines showed. Vintages 1998-2000 were seriously good, with the 1999 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ‘Trutina’ (OB, 91) shining the most brightly now at the twenty-two year mark. I was really impressed with the 2002 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 92) which has plenty of dense dark fruits and good richness. I love wines from 2002 and this wine was aging gracefully and still had another five plus years left. One surprise was the 2008 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 92) which was made with a very large portion of Syrah blended in but had great finesse and salty undertones. No doubt another surprise was the 2010 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 92) which is still humming away while some other wines from this vintage seem to be already at peak or past their prime. One of the best wines I had from the tasting is the 2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ (OB, 93) which is vibrant now at the five year mark. I love the moving parts of this wine, showing earthy tones that combine with the rich dark fruits and soft mouthfeel. 

This was just an extraordinary way to go back in time and recall some of the great value red wines made in their time. Learn more about ‘Trutina’ or other Dunham wines at dunhamcellars.com and here are my tasting notes from every vintage of Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina.’


1998 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ’Trutina’ Red Wine-Dark peat most with tobacco tones alongside lighter fruits mark the nose. The palate is fresh and linear as the light red fruits make this really sing. This is beautifully evolved wine. Drink 2021-2025- 90


1999 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Fresh and focused, this 1999 is very youthful with still maintaining a core of dark fruits. Alight dusting of salinity ages to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2025- 91


2000 Dunham Cellars (Trey Marie) ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Considering the challenges faced in the vintage, thesis a pretty impressive showing with light saline tones alongside red currants, bandaid, cedar, cigar box, and peat moss undertones. This is impressive stuff. Drink 2021-2024- 90


2001 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red WIne- This is somewhat disjointed but shows a rich core of dark fruits with chocolate tones. Drink 2021-2024- 88


2002 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The nose here is decadent with ripe figs, chocolate and tobacco alongside blackberry compote. The palate is full-bodied and decadent with great balance and acidity. This is just beautiful stuff right now. Drink 2021-2026- 92


2003 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2003 ‘Trutina’ is a glorious showing with intense chocolate and cassis notes alongside espresso bean. The sense of salinity is great here. Drink 2021-2026- 92


2004 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- A large portion of Merlot (59%) as this shows off rich dark currants and dark kirsch notes with sweet pipe tobacco and chocolate tones all impress. Drink 2021-2024- 90


2005 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (41% each), the 2005 shows a beautiful bouquet with cocoa powder and anise on the nose. The palate is fresh, salty and savory with lighter red fruits that dance with minerals. This is saline-infused, delicious wine that is still full of life. Drink 2021-2027-91


2006 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine-The 2006 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine is showing nicely right now. Soft and round, this shows a nice mouthfeel with black currants and blackberry compote flavors. A touch straightforward, yet very tasty this won’t improve but is gorgeous right now. Drink 2021-2026- 91


2007 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2007 ‘Trutina’ is soft and a touch lean with blackberry and coffee ground flavors. Drink now. Drink 2021-2025- 90


2008 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- this has equal parts of Cabernet and Syrah blended in (42% each). The Syrah is really shining here with chocolate, sagebrush and coffee ground aromatics that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft and salty with a great savory edge. Black currants combine with salted meats, menthol, leather, blackberry compote and really good finesse. Drink 2021-2029- 92


2009 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Trutina’ shows good fresh sage and underbrush notes on the nose alongside wild blackberry and peat moss aromas. The palate is finesse-driven with blackberry, black cherry and sage tones. This still has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2027- 91


2010 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- This colder vintage wine has a good amount of Merlot blended in (63%). Mostly Lewis Vineyard fruit, this really smells Merlot dominant with chocolate covered cherry, coffee grounds and sagebrush. This shows good flavor density and weight considering the vintage. This is very Washington meets St. Estefe. Drink 2021-2027- 92


2011 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2011 really shows the coolness of the vintage. A touch lean and linear, this shows lighter dark fruits with coffee ground flavors. Drink 2021-2023- 89


2012 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2012 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine is a glorious wine. The wine shows good flavor density with cassis, anise, black currants and black florals. The almost weightless quality mid-palate really makes this sing. This is very pretty stuff that is truly in balance and has a longways to go. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2013 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- The 2013 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine is a sensational effort at the eight year mark. Tar, tobacco and black currants meld with dark chocolate covered red cherry on the palate. Black tea and stony accents all impress and add to the enjoyment, with good length. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2014 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Large parts Merlot (44%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (37%) this shows amazing balance with a great core of roasted figs, espresso bean and dark currant jelly. The wine shows good weight and finesse, as this beautiful wine is just starting to hit is stride. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- 54% Cabernet with smaller parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, the 2015 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine shows off ripe dark currants with mocha and tar tones. This shows good finesse but shows less flavor density than the 2014. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2016 Dunham Cellars ‘Trutina’ Red Wine- Sagebrush with dark currants, espresso bean and milk chocolate tones all take shape in the glass. Dense and chewy, with a great sense of mouthfeel, this is beautiful wine right now. This has at least another ten years to go. Drink 2021-2031- 93

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Great photo of the talented winemaking team at Corliss Estate.

Great photo of the talented winemaking team at Corliss Estate.

Corliss Estate

June 21, 2021

Located right as you enter the downtown area of Walla Walla, Corliss is an ultra-premium producer of red and white wines founded in 1999 by Michael and Lori Corliss. Over the years Mike Corliss has bought vineyard land throughout the state, including more holdings on Red Mountain. Corliss has been met with some serious critical acclaim since their first release in 2008. I love how these wines age, as I’ve had the chance to try their 2006 and 2008 red wines over the past year and I can absolutely say that they are still alive and kicking even now at fifteen years.

As times evolve Corliss is now producing nearly 100% estate fruit sourced other than a touch of Syrah being sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA. For the 2017 vintage they aged their Bordeaux wines for a touch less to keep more freshness in the wines. The winemaking team has mentioned that they have been working hard to make the Syrah more divergent from the Bordeaux style wines. I adored the 2017 Corliss Estate Syrah (OB, 95) which is dense and brooding with silky tannins and a soft and generous mouthfeel. Even better is the incredible 2017 Corliss Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which is seamless, silky wine that has decades of life in front of it. Learn more about these incredible wines at corlissestate.com and here are my notes on the pre-release 2017s by Corliss. 


2017 Corliss Estate Syrah- The 2017 Corliss Estate Syrah is a dense and exotic wine that benefits from some air in the decanter. Once aroused this evokes pretty red and black florals alongside smoked brisket with white pepper dusted bacon and blackberry pie as well as black cherry cordial aromas that all meld in the glass. The palate is dense and chewy with great viscosity. With a few hours of air this becomes even more dense and decadent with massive blue and black fruits alongside creosote, minerals and black olives. This is sinfully good even in its youth but try to resist this slumbering giant for another year or two. Drink 2022-2037- 95


2017 Corliss Estate Red Wine-While the 2016 Red Wine was a Cabernet Franc dominant blend, the 2017 is a 100% Red Mountain AVA wine that is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant. However, the Cabernet Franc shows its stride here particularly with the herbal aromatics adding to the complexity as creme de violette, anise, cassis aromas mingle with shades of red bell pepper, mocha and tar accents on this highly evocative bouquet. The palate is pillowy and downright weightless with a gorgeous combination of black and blue fruits alongside graphite, stony minerals and firm tannins. This is very seamless and precise wine throughout the drinking experience. Try to give this sleeping beauty at least another two years before consuming. Drink 2023-2044- 96


2017 Corliss Estate Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Corliss Cabernet Sauvignon is an extraordinary wine that is a hedonistic monster right now. Comprised of100% estate fruit from Red Mountain, this shows amazing aromatic range from scorched earth to black tea and exotic spices alongside blackberry cobbler and dark chocolate covered espresso bean. The palate is weightless and seamless  with glorious length and downright sensational flavor density. Firm tannins hold everything beautifully in place. This just exceptional wine that will cellar well for many decades to come. Drink 2024-2045- 97



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Here we have the absolutely sensational new 2019 Reynvaan Viogniers.

Here we have the absolutely sensational new 2019 Reynvaan Viogniers.

Reynvaan 2019 Viognier

June 17, 2021

Tasting with Matt Reynvaan last week I couldn’t overcome my excitement for his new wine. “This might just be the best white wine you have ever made,” I commented. As I tasted the 2019 ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier, I was stuck by not only the viscosity and tension of the wine but beautiful length and harmonious bent the wine takes you through. It is seamless, elegant wine that literally screams terroir.

It is no surprise that Matt crafts some of the best white wines in the Pacific Northwest. He has some serious pedigree, having helped make wines at Chateau Haut Smith-Lafitte — producer of some of the finest Bordeaux blanc on this planet. A limited production winery founded by Mike and Gale Reynvaan, Reynvaan Family Vineyards focuses on producing wines from their estate vineyards, both in the Walla Walla Rocks region and their ‘Foothills Vineyard’ set at roughly 1600 feet near their family home in the Bluewood Mountains. Matt Reynvaan, is making some of the best wines in Washington state. I am enamored by what he produces from these two outstanding vineyards. For years I have been massively struck by his ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah which is a wine unlike any other in North America. As I have stated before, wines from both vineyards show terroir, purity, elegance and range that rivals anything in North America.

2019 was generally a kind vintage for white wines, devoid of any major heat spikes and a relatively even growing season until a freeze rocked much of Washington in early to mid-October. Matt had mentioned that his wines had been picked before the freeze, so that did not impact his wines.I was blown away with the two new white wines that he has produced both from the 2019 vintage. They’re both exquisite and each their own. The 2019 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier (OB, 96) shows a stony edge and is silky, elegant and downright seamless. The 2019 Reynvaan ‘Foothills In The Sun Vineyard’ Viognier (OB, 95) is less stony and all about opulence with a silky texture and a finish that lasts forever. Put both of these bottlings up against the best of their kind in North America. Learn more about these amazing wines at https://www.reynvaanfamilyvineyards.com Here the exciting 2019 Viognier wines by Reynvaan Family Vineyards 

2019 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier- Stony, savory, salty and downright profound, the 2019 ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier is a masterful effort by Matt Reyvaan. Right away a whiff of wet stone aromas catch your attention as saline drenched pear, apricot, banana and shades of nectarine all meld in the glass. The palate is soft and seamless, as the wine effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. This actually comes off more Corton-Charlemagne than Condriueu, with the lower oak influence but still showing plenty of weight and gobs of finesse alongside kumquat rind, orange zest, honeydew melon and wet slate flavors. This is up there with any of the best white wines of the Pacific Northwest that I have tasted in the past year and is drinking marvelously even at the two year mark. Be sure to give this an hour of air and please serve at a warmer temperature for the wine to show its massive range of aromatics and flavors. Drink 2021-2029- 96


2019 Reynvaan ‘Foothills In The Sun Vineyard’ Viognier- A touch more unctuous and rich than the ‘In The Rocks’ bottling, the ‘Foothills In The Sun’ Viognier is a sensational new wine that is done slightly riper than its stony nephew. Once on the nose this takes on apricot jelly and white peach tones alongside shades of star jasmine and starfruit with salted Macadamia nut undertones. The palate is silky and elegant with a beautiful sense of texture and weight. Starfruit, buttercream and wet stone flavors combine with minerals, Bartlett pear and suggestions of baking spice dusted Challah bread on the palate. Be sure to give this an hour of air if enjoying now, as this also shows considerably better warmed up a bit in the glass. Drink 2021-2028- 95

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Here we have the gorgeous lineup of Devona wines.

Here we have the gorgeous lineup of Devona wines.

Devona

June 16, 2021

I’ll fully admit that I have missed out on the glorious wines of Devona for several years. What began back in college at Oregon State University several decades ago, Devona is the brainchild of John and Molly Abbott who formerly founded famed Walla Walla house Abeja. Before starting his own winery John worked for famed sites including Pine Ridge as well as Acacia where he was exposed to making world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He spent ten years with Canoe Ridge Vineyard and 13 years with Abeja, before founding Devona. 

Devona sources from a host of fantastic sites throughout the Pacific Northwest. While at Abeja, John had a national reputation for crafting world-class Chardonnay. His new releases from the 2018 vintages were both stellar across the board. I particularly adored his 2018 Devona ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which was texturally downright pillowy and showed great weight and range. Just as good is his sensational new 2017 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot (OB, 94) which has a glorious combo of dark fruit and non-fruit character. This is a lineup that is not to be missed by any serious collector of Oregon and Washington wines. Learn more about this fantastic brand of wines at http://www.devona.net and here are my tasting notes on the glorious new Devona wines. 


2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Aged 25% new French oak, the 2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’Chardonnay shows off rich poached pear with a silky texture and wet stone character the palate. This finishes exceedingly long, as this brilliant wine is dense and polished now and has a really long way to go. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2018 Devona ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Washington State’ Chardonnay is sourced from two great sites: Celilo and White Salmon Vineyards. The nose is super refined with ripe Japanese pear and white peach notes. Thee palate is plush and generous with ripe baking spice drenched pear and apple flavors alongside citrus rind and wet stone undertones. The finesse here considering the vintage is glorious. This is exceedingly refined stuff that is dense and has some great cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2031- 94


2018 Devona ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir  is mostly Pommard clone wine which was roughly 25% new oak aged. Ripe dark currants collide with stony minerals and peat moss on the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with plenty of stuffing. Layers of toasty oak collide with minerals, damp earth and wild blackberry on the palate. Lithe and bright, this has fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2021-2036- 93


2018 Devona ‘Mount Richmond Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this vineyard which is the Elk Cove estate vineyard, this showoff with huckleberry notes alongside dried herbs and serious heft with good tension. This is a downright massive wine that shows brilliantly now but is really just an infant in the bottle. Give this a two hour decant if enjoying young. Drink 2022-2040- 94


2017 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2017 ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Merlot shows ripe chocolate covered cherry with sagebrush and smoky undertones on the nose. The palate is dense and shows rich dark fruits alongside, dark chocolate covered espresso bean and toasty oak on the palate. Drink 2021-2035- 94


2016 Devona ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This great Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 85% new French oak before bottling. The wine shows a massive wall of dark fruits that collide with Turkish coffee, creme de violette and salty undertones. This is highly refined and novel Cabernet Sauvignon that is built to age. Balance, with great flavor density, this older Cabernet Sauvignon beautifully showcases the character of this famed site in the Horse Heaven Hills. Drink 2021-2040- 95


2016 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon plantings that provide very small berries, this wine evokes tar, sweet pipe tobacco, sagebrush and dark cherry cordial flavors alongside a vibrant sense of minerality and firm tannins. This really packs a punch. Gorgeous now, this really has another twenty years in front of it. Drink 2021-2040- 95


2015 Devona ‘Bacchus Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This was John Abbot’s inaugural Cabernet Sauvignon release. Once on the nose this takes on sagebrush, tar and tobacco alongside a great core of dark fruits. This is dense and layered but maybe lacking a touch of complexity as the 2016 but still evokes a great core of dark fruits and coffee ground flavors. Considering the heat of the vintage this is a really good effort that has another decade to go. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2017 Devona ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon-This inky Red Mountain bottling moves to tar and scorched earth tones on the nose with espresso bean aromatics that all meld in the glass. The palate has a massive flavor density with intense black and blue fruits alongside Turkish coffee, tar and menthol undertones. This is hedonistic, yet well-structured  Cabernet Sauvignon that is drinking beautiful now and has a long way to go. Drink 2021-2042- 95

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Here we have the beautiful new 2020 Miraval Rose.

Here we have the beautiful new 2020 Miraval Rose.

Miraval

June 16, 2021

Miraval


As we slowly defrost from not only spring but the Covid-19 pandemic, we bring you one of the iconic Rose wines from Provence. A marvelous combination of Hollywood drama and great wine, Miraval, a 1,200 acre estate in Provence, was founded by acting icons Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. Married at Miraval, Pitt and Jolie prior to their split lived there since 2008. The property boasts pine forests, olive groves, terraced hillsides, working vineyards, a private lake  as well as a moat. Much of the chateau dates back to 17th century, including 35 rooms in the main house as well as several tenant residences.The estate also contains remains of a Romanesque chapel, as well as the famed vineyard from which the Miraval Rose comes from. The recording studio at Miraval has housed some famous musicians including personal favorites Sting and The Cranberries (R.I.P. Dolores O’ Riordan). 

 Purchased in 2012 for an estimated $60 million, records indicate that in 1252 philosopher and theologian Saint Thomas Aquinas visited the Miraval estate. The vineyard itself is very large, Jean-Pierre and Francois Perrin are the iconic vintners behind this great Rose wine that produce white and rose wine from the 500 hectare property.  They produce a ton of Rose (roughly 200,000 bottles) and despite the quantity of wine produced, the quality of the wine has been apparently throughout the past five vintages. The latest vintage Rose, comes from the year of the Pitt/Jolie split and it is not clear who will own Miraval going forward. The 2020 Miraval Rose (OB, 92) might be the best edition of this wine. It is beautifully textured from the partial battonage and truly captures the art of blending. Learn more about Miraval at http://miraval-provence.com/en/ Here is the new Miraval Rose review.


2020 Miraval ‘Studio’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Studio’ is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. Wild mushroom combines with watermelon and smoky minerals on the nose. The palate is soft and beautifully textured. Layers of very delicate red fruits combine with peat moss and citrus rind tones on the palate. This is really good stuff for the price. Drink 2021-2025- 90


2020 Miraval Rose- The 2020 Miraval Rose blends Cinsault, Grenache and Rolle vines from this esteemed site set on clay & limestone at an average of 350 meters. 5% of this wine was aged in French oak and was given battonage. The resultant wine is truly outstanding particularly at a warmer temperature. Gooseberry and pomegranate seed flavors collide with minerals, tilled soils and pretty rose water and red cherry candy notes. Drink 2021-2027- 92

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Here we have the sensational new lineup of Querciabella wines.

Here we have the sensational new lineup of Querciabella wines.

Querciabella

June 15, 2021

One of the great wineries based in Tuscany, Querciabella produces a magical range of wines everywhere from Maremma to Chianti. The name Querciabella means ‘beautiful oak’ as the estate dates back to 1988 when Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni, an investor and entrepreneur, converted the family estate to organic viticulture in 1988, making Querciabella one of the first wineries in Italy to employ this practice. Under his leadership, Querciabella became known as one of Italy’s most well-known producers in this region. What was now a single hectare is now 100 hectares for their estate. 

The winery produces a range of wines from their ‘Batar’ which is an extraordinary white wine blending Chardonnay and Pinot Blanco, to their incredible Chianti Riserva, which was first made in 2011 and sees extended barrel age. The new edition of their Riserva comes from 2015 (OB, 95) as this wine is hedonistic but nicely structured with incredible finesse and length. I also really adored the 2015 Querciabella ‘Palafreno’ IGT Toscana (OB, 95) which is a Merlot wine that is truly extraordinary with its florals and finesse. This is one for any lover of unique Merlots of the world. Learn more about this famed Italian estate at https://querciabella.com and here are my notes from the gorgeous Querciabella releases. 


2017 Querciabella ‘Batar’ White Wine- The 2017 ‘Batar’ is a downright stunning blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco. The palate is utterly seamless and hugely complex. Salted Macadamia nut and wild mushroom tones mingle with cantaloupe, banana and stony minerals on the palate. Showing great viscosity and verve, this beautiful wine will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 94


2019 Querciabella ‘Mongrana’ Maremma- Sourced from vineyards planted back in 2000, this wine blends Sangiovese (50%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (25%) and Merlot (25%). Beautifully textured, the wine shows smoke and sage that mingles with salted red fruits, orange rind and tobacco on the palate. Beautiful even at the two year mark, this should cellar well for another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 91


2018 Querciabella Chianti Classico- This Sangiovese saw twelve months in French oak before bottling. Soft and generous, this shows very pretty tart red fruits that collide with tobacco leaf, cigar ash and dried herbs on the palate. Plush and soft, with a beautiful sense of texture, this outstanding bottling will continue to live on for another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 91


2015 Querciabella Chianti Reserva- Sourced from vineyards in Radda and Greve, this ‘Riserva’ is a barrel selection wine that saw sixteen months elevage prior to bottling. The nose is beautifully perfumed with red rose petals and blood orange zest, as well as iodine and menthol tones that all meld together in the glass. The palate is deeply concentrated but also wonderfully elegant. Ripe red fruits collide with minerals, smoke, pipe tobacco and green herbs on the palate. The length and generous viscosity add to the enjoyment here. This beauty has only just begun its long reign. Drink 2021-2038- 95


2016 Querciabella ‘Camartina’ IGT Toscana- A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and the reminder Sangiovese, this saw sixteen months of French oak before bottling. The nose is quite extraordinary with red bell pepper and thyme that mingle with the massive core of dark fruits and chocolate. The palate is plush with a seamless texture. Rich blackberry and huckleberry flavors mingle with fresh herbs, tobacco leaf, baking spices and Mandarin orange rind on the palate. Compelx and highly delicious to savor now, this will provide drinking enjoyment for many decades to come. Drink 2021-2037- 94


2015 Querciabella ‘Palafreno’ IGT Toscana- The ‘Palafreno’ is 100% Merlot sourced from vineyards in Greve. The nose is beautifully perfumed with red florals and salty tones that mingle with wild blackberry compote and tar undercurrents. The palate is soft and sinfully good. The seamless texture really impresses here as ripe red and dark fruits come alive, with great freshness and earthy tones adding to the complexity. Firm tannins hold everything in place brilliantly, as this beautiful wine will cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2038- 95

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Alan Viader crafts some sensational wines for his namesake winery.

Alan Viader crafts some sensational wines for his namesake winery.

Viader

June 15, 2021

Napa Valley is continually changing and I love the movement towards balance. One of the famed houses with some serious history, VIADER is the brainchild of Delia Viader, who took the leap of faith years ago to plant grapes in uncharted waters in Napa Valley. For years Delia only made one wine, a Bordeaux style blend, since 1986. Holding a PhD from Sorbonne University in Paris, founding winemaker Delia Viader now collaborates with her son, Alan, to make their wines which are entirely sourced from their estate vineyard on Howell Mountain. A remarkable story, Delia stated Viader while raising four children on her own. Since starting the winery she was met with some incredible critical acclaim for her pretty style of wine that typically incorporates a large amount of Cabernet Franc.

Delia has achieved incredible success since starting in the mid-80s as she models her style of wine towards the great wines of Bordeaux, focusing on balance rather than primary fruit qualities. I have been enchanted with these wines and have been fortunate enough to try many going back to the 1990s. Delia’s son, Alan, served as VIADER vineyard manager since 2002 while studying winemaking at UC Davis. He has been lead winemaker at VIADER since 2006 and works with Delia on all wines. 

I have been impressed with their newer wine in their collection, the VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine, which has Syrah blend into Bordeaux varietals. I adored the new 2018 VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which is dense and chewy with some massive aging potential considering the variety and place. I am just as enamored by the 2018 VIADER Red Wine (OB, 96) which is very tightly wound and really needs several years of bottle age to fully show its stride. This dense and decadent wine will go for decades. Learn more about this storied Napa winery at https://viader.com Here are the beautiful new wines by VIADER.



2018 Viader Red Wine- The sensational 2018 Viader is a beautifully terroir-expressed rendition of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 47% Cabernet Franc, all sourced from this mountainous site set on a rocky hillside at 1200 feet. The stony aromatics really add to the enjoyment as creme de cassis, anise, and boysenberry preserve tones all meld in the glass. The palate is dense and fresh, with a sterling sense of minerality despite the heat of the vintage. Creme de violette, tar, roasted figs, anise and allspice all collect momentum alongside blackberry compote and a light dusting of salinity on the palate. This really needs time to develop in the glass, as several hours of air develop even more viscosity and tension in the glass, showing a gratifying combination of weight and freshness.  Downright gorgeous even at the three year mark, this outstanding Right Bank style of wine will have another twenty years in front of it. If enjoying over the next few years, be sure to give this at least a two hour decant. Drink 2023-2045- 96



2018 Viader ‘Black Label’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Black Label’ is a crazy good blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon with 33% Syrah and smaller parts Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Once on the nose this takes on a massive range of aromatics from tar and tobacco to espresso grounds dusted smoked brisket and boysenberry compote. The palate is dense, plush and downright hedonistic. The palate is dense and beautifully textured, showing the same level of insanely good range. Smoked meats alongside volcanic damp stones, salted black fruits collude with smoky minerals, Earl Grey tea and blueberry pie on the palate. This is highly novel and impressive stuff that has the wonderful compliment of fruit and terroir to match. Drink 2021-2040- 96

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Brent Stone has crafted a sensational range of wines for King Estate.

Brent Stone has crafted a sensational range of wines for King Estate.

King Estate Turns 30

June 14, 2021

One of Oregon’s historic wineries, King Estate is remarkably celebrating 30 years as an Oregon winery. “Thirty years later, the King family has remained true to the vision of producing world-class wines that showcase the spirit and character of Oregon” said King Estate winemaker Brent Stone. “By staying focused on that, the winery has evolved and grown to what it is today, and we’re still going strong,” Stone added.

CEO and co-founder Ed King founded King Estate in 1991 with his father, Ed King, Jr. (1921 – 2012). “When we filed papers with the Secretary of State in January 1991, we were not even sure what we would call our wine enterprise” said King. He continued “As we mark this 30th anniversary, on the heels of the most challenging and memorable year of our history, we take stock of all that we have accomplished and yet it feels like we are just getting started – because we are. We have so much more to do. The resolve and determination our people showed this past year is what will carry us forward to accomplish even more.”

As an objective critic I have been so impressed with this estate over the past twenty years. This is an Oregon estate that has been synonymous with value. I’ve tasted older renditions of their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris and have bee found them to be exceptionally age-worthy as well. Having recently visited the estate, this is truly one of the most beautiful sites for growing grapes that you will find in the Pacific Northwest. Sitting down with winemaker Brent Stone, we talked about the recent vintages as well as the aging potential of these wines. They have made a downright killer aged sparkling wine and the 2008 King Estate ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 93) is focused and electric with an outstanding mouthfeel and really good flavor range. I absolutely adored the new 2018 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is amongst the best Pinot Noirs that I have ever tried from this famed Willamette Valley estate. The flavor range here is glorious as is the bright beam of tension that runs through the core of the wine. Learn more about this famed estate at https://www.kingestate.com and here are my tasting notes from the new release wines by King Estate.



2008 King Estate ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine- Unabashedly bold and beautifully textured, the 2008 ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling wine shows off heady golden delicious apple, baking spices and sourdough bread tones with shades of forest floor on the nose. The palate is soft and round, with ripe Japanese pear and starfruit flavors with loads of minerals and smoky undertones. This is really singing now. Drink 2021-2028- 93



2019 King Estate ‘Steiner Block’ Pinot Gris- A very limited production wine, the 2019 ‘Steiner Block’ impresses with its silky smooth texture and wonderful kiwi and melon tones on the palate. Shades of wet stone, white grapefruit and wild mushroom add to the enjoyment here. This is Oregon Pinot Gris at its best. Drink 2021-2031- 94



2017 King Estate ‘Kennel Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Kennel Vineyard’ is a seriously strong showing by the talented Brent Stone. The oily texture is really outstanding as lemon rind, cantaloupe, wet stone and shades of toasted hazelnut all meld together on the palate. With great length and showing some flinty undertones, this outstanding new Chardonnay will cellar well for another eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2028- 93



2015 King Estate ‘Hyland’ Pinot Noir- The 2015 ‘Hyland’ Pinot Noir is a glorious showing at the six year mark. Ripe redcurrant and menthol tones combine with good freshness and light tannins on the palate. The light sense of salinity and earthy undertones add to the complexity. With plenty of finesse and verve, this is sensational Pinot Noir to savor right now. Drink 2021-2031- 93



2018 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir- Refined and elegant for the vintage, the 2018 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir shows gobs of sour red fruits alongside good tension and a light dusting of salinity. Fresh and polished, with light tannins, this outstanding effort is simply singing now and will continue to provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 94



2017 King Estate ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The2017 King Estate ‘Quintessence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows good dense dark fruits with tar, tobacco leaf and scorched earth tones on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with firm tannins and a soft sense of mouthfeel, this is a gorgeous effort that has at least another decade of life in front of it. Drink 2021-2033- 92

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Rivaura is producing some of the best Idaho wines I have tasted.

Rivaura is producing some of the best Idaho wines I have tasted.

Rivaura

June 14, 2021

Truly one of the unique sites in the Pacific Northwest, Rivaura is a very scenic location just outside of Lewiston, Idaho, set on the Clearwater River. It was back in 2014 that Rivaura founders Ron Hewett, Sr., along with his sons Ron, Jr., and Reece Hewett, founded this winery. For more than 60 years, this family has grown up along the banks of the Clearwater River in the Lewis-Clark Valley, just a tad east of Lewiston, Idaho at Arrow near Juliaetta, Idaho.

Before founding Rivaura they consulted with Kevin Pogue, PhD, RG, of VinTerra Consulting based in Walla Walla, Washington. Dr. Pogue's noted "The Rivaura vineyards are ideally situated to grow grapes to make superb wines.” Touring the vineyards I was very impressed with the vine health and the location in close proximity to the river which serves as a mitigating factor.

The new wines were really good across the board. Billo Naravane, MW, of Rasa Vineyards fame, has crafted a splendid range of wines for Rivaura. I adored the 2019 Rivaura Viognier (OB, 92) which is an ode to Condrieu and shows off a silky texture from the considerable battonage given to the wine. I was really impressed with the 2019 Rivaura ‘Insomniac’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is an ode to the founder Ron Hewett Sr. and locks in plenty of dense dark fruits with a soft texture. Learn more about this really exciting new Idaho wine project at rivaura.com and here are my reviews of the new Rivaura wines. 


2020 Rivuara Rose- The 2020 Cabernet Franc based Rose has a splash of Grenache and Malbec blended in. Weighing in at 12.7% alcohol, this shows off a very pretty red floral, orange blossom and red fruit aromatic profile. The palate is very dry as this shows very delicate red fruits that collide with minerals, and earthy undertones. Drink 2021-20243- 89


2019 Rivaura Viognier- Aged on the lees, this saw battonage every two weeks. This was aged in used puncheons before bottling. Star jasmine and honeysuckle mingle with ripe white peach and juicy pear notes on the nose. The wine shows really good freshness with a beautiful texture and silky mouthfeel. Drink 2021-2026- 92


2019 Rivaura Grenache- Estate grown, this weighs in at 14.1% alcohol. The nose shows garrigue notes alongside guava and red cherry candy with orange rind undertones that all meld in the glass. The palate is soft and generous with pretty red fruits that collide with minerals, smoky undertones and copious minerals. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2019 Rivuara Syrah- Sourced from their south block property, this is sourced from roughly four different clones of Syrah. The palate shows good flavor density with iodine, wet stone, blackberry compote and smoky accents. Seamless with a soft texture and good degree of minerality, this is generous, fleshy Syrah that has another decade to go. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2019 Rivuara ‘Reserve’ Syrah- This is sourced from a low-yielding site and showing off an inky color the wine yields black tea, exotic spices, blackberry compote and espresso bean tones. This shows great richness and balance, yet has a great acid backbone. Creme de violette and stony undertones add to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2019 Rivuara ‘River Ranch Red’ Red Wine- This Cabernet Sauvignon dominant blend has all five varietals blended in. Sagebrush and dark fruits mark the nose with chocolate undertones. The palate is soft and generous with ai smooth texture and great core of dark fruits with sagebrush undertones. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2019 Rivuara Malbec- The 2019 Malbec by Rivuara shows off rich dark and blue fruits with chocolate and sagebrush accents on the palate. The balance is great with a dusting of white pepper and good acid backbone. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2019 Rivaura Merlot- The 2019 Rivaura Merlot shows off black tea, blackberry compote and black cherry cordial with chocolate undertones. The palate is soft and plush with a silky texture and smooth mouthfeel. The flavor density is really good as this finishes long. Drink 2021-2028- 92


2019 Rivaura Cabernet Sauvignon- 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, this saw 40% new French oak before bottling. The palate is plush with decadent roasted figs, coffee grounds, blackberry compote, wild herbs and scorched earth undertones. This is just sensational wine for the price. Drink 2021-2029- 92


2019 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This saw 55% new French oak before bottling. Sagebrush and intense dark fruits mark the nose with Turkish coffee accents. The palate is dense and nicely concentrated. Layers of chocolate fudge, fresh sage, toasty oak and dark currant cordial with smoky minerals all connect momentum on the palate. Gorgeous now, this has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2019 Rivaura ‘Insomniac’ Red Wine- A dense and silky blend of41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot with smaller parts Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The palate is soft and seamless with salty undertones that add to the enjoyment. Chocolate, sagebrush, tar, tobacco leaf and blackberry compote all connect momentum with a great acid backbone. Drink 2021-2033- 93

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Today we honor the top Rose wines from the Pacific Northwest in our annual 2021 Pacific Northwest Rose Report.

Today we honor the top Rose wines from the Pacific Northwest in our annual 2021 Pacific Northwest Rose Report.

2021 Pacific Northwest Rosé Report

June 10, 2021

2020 was a more than challenging year for most of us. Not only did we experience the worst pandemic in centuries, 2020 brought us plenty of challenges throughout the Pacific Northwest on the winemaking side, with smoke issues wrecking havoc on harvests in both Washington and Oregon. Having tasted through more than 100 Rose wines, I sadly was not able to rate many due to smoke influence in the wines. 

The idea behind this report is to highlight the best of the best, and share some of the outstanding values that the Pacific Northwest has to offer. I would argue that the best thing that a wine critic can do is point the consumer in the right direction in terms of what the reviewer considers to be not only the creme de la creme but wines that overdeliver for the price. 

It is little surprise that the quality of Rose wines continues to impress despite what mother nature throws at us. I have loved seeing this trend, as I long have admired the great wines of Provence, including Domaine Ott, Domaine Tempier and others. 

Vigneron Christophe Baron has long admired the top wines of Provence and is one of the Northwest’s innovators in terms of having specific grapes and blocks for his Rose wine, which continues to be for my palate the finest expression of Pacific Northwest Rose that you will find. 

Kerry Shiels is another innovative winemaker who for many years has showcased her famed vineyard’s Cabernet Franc in making a pale and delicate Rose with great nuance. Similarly Brian Marcy of Big Table Farm has made sensation Pinot Noir Rose for years with very intentional maceration and barrel treatment. Walter Scott has made their first Rose wine and it is a downright awesome, highly nuanced, knockout of an inaugural effort. For my report I have categorized both good value Rose wines and top scoring Rose wines. I don’t think you will find a more comprehensive Pacific Northwest Rose report available to the consumer.

2020 was not kind to Oregon but there were many beautiful bottlings made that did not see smoke influence. Look to the gorgeous 2020 Toil Rose (OB, 93) which a brightly colored, highly nuanced and finesse-driven Rose made by winemaker Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar fame. Brian Marcy’s 2020 Big Table Farm Rose (OB, 92) is one of the Rose wines of the vintage, beautifully textured and showing incredible length and verve. Other beautiful Rose wines were crafted by Brick House, Walter Scott, Audeant, Argyle, Stoller, and many others.

Washington also offers some excellent value Rose, including the new 2020 ‘Le Rose’ by Chateau St. Michelle (OB, 90), has really good finesse and delicate red fruits. Look to the 2020 Charles and Charles Rose (OB, 88) which impresses at only ten bucks. Also don’t miss the impressive 2020 Purple Star Rose (OB, 90) which is one of the state’s great value Rose wines. I adore the new 2019 XOBC Rose (OB, 92) which is fresh and beautifully textured with incredible stony character. Just as good is the 2020 Rose by Kerry Shiels of Cote Bonneville, with a silky mouthfeel and very pretty red fruits.

One again famed vigneron Christophe Baron of Cayuse Vineyards has created a downright epic new Rose which is amongst the best I have ever sampled from him. The sinfully good 2018 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose (OB, 94) is silky, rich and layered with gobs of flavor density and complexity. This is one for any serious lover of North American Rose. I have been particularly impressed what winemakers Greg Harrington and Brandon Moss have crafted over the past five or so years. Their joint effort, the 2020 Gramercy Cellars Rose (OB, 93) shows insanely good range and lovely nuance. Do not miss out on the 2020 DeLille Cellars Rose (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous with a great veil of tension by director of winemaking Jason Gorski. Also do not miss out on new Rose wines by, Avennia, EFESTE, Cote Bonneville, and many more. Cheers to you all from and I hope you enjoy a wonderful, Rose-filled summer. 



OREGON


Top Values ($25.00 and under)




2020 A to Z Rose- This is a light style of Rose with rose water, orange rind and cinnamon infused red fruits that is meant to be consumed right now. The wine seems to show considerably better at a cooler temperature. Drink 2021-2023- 87

 

2020 Cloudine Rose- This offers delicate red fruits that collide with minerals and shades of peat moss on the palate. Lithe and refreshing, enjoy now. Drink 2021-2023- 87




2020 Elizabeth Chambers Rose- This is an inviting, leaner style of Rose with sour apple, melon and red cherry tones alongside brisk acidity. Enjoy this good effort in the short-term. Drink 2021-2024- 89


2020 King Estate Rose- The 2020 Rose by King Estate shows soft guava, strawberry, bubblegum and melon tones on the palate with plenty of acidity. The rich sense of texture adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2021-2025- 90




2020 Lange Rose- Right way the 2020 Lange Rose’s vibrant color catches you off-guard with a seamless texture and wonderful sense of mouthfeel. Soft red fruits collide with minerals, green apple, peat moss and stony undertones on the palate. This is highly complex, gratifying Rose that is best enjoyed at a slightly warmer temperature. Drink 2021-2026- 91




2020 Underwood Rose- Finesse-driven, the 2020 Underwood Rose offers very delicate guava, red cherry, kumquat and teaberry flavors alongside minerals and stony undertones. Enjoy now at a cooler temperature while the sense of freshness remains intact. Drink 2021-2023- 88




Top Wines: 




2020 Alexana Rose- Pale in color, the 2020 Alexana Rose shows green apple and melon with wild mushroom on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured and shows sour green apple tones that mingle with minerals and green papaya on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 90




2019 Audeant Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this electric Rose shows wild strawberry and melon tones aromatically alongside shades of forest floor. The palate shows plenty of rich texture and vibrant acidity, as well as wonderful length. Pretty red fruits melange with red rose water and shades of orange rind on the palate. Great to savor now, this has some cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2026- 92




2020 Bells Up Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this brightly colored Rose shows great acidity and texture with bright guava and red cherry flavors, with orange rind and peat moss undertones. The poise and astringency here is really nice. This seriously good stuff finishes long and might just be the best edition of this wine that I have tasted. Drink 2021-2025- 91





2020 Big Table Farm ‘Laughing Pig’ Rose- Big Table Farm have earned a reputation for consistently producing some of the best Rose that you’ll find in the Pacific Northwest over the past several years. This edition is a direct-press wine that had a long ferment and then saw all neutral oak barrel aging prior to bottling. Silky and smooth on the mid-palate, the wine shows off gorgeous red fruits that dance with orange rind, cinnamon and cloves. This finishes exceedingly long. Drink 2021-2027- 92




2020 Brick House Rose- Made from Gamay grapes, the 2020 Brick House Rose shows pretty guava and orange rind tones that mingle with good freshness and a light dusting of salinity. Gorgeous now, this will continue to impress over the next five plus years. Drink 2021-2026- 91





2020 Chehalem Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, the 2020 Chehalem Rose shows good freshness with green apple, kiwi and strawberry tones on the palate.  With good astringency and tension this really needs a hot summer day. Drink 2021-2025- 90





2020 Hazelfern ‘Summer Rose’ Rose- The ‘Summer’ Rose by Hazelfern saw six months of stainless steel aging before bottling and features Dijon clone 115 and 777 Pinot Noir. This is a lively and fresh style with gobs of verve and a plush texture. Very delicate guava and cranberry tones combine with shades of wild mushroom and tilled soils on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 91



2020 Stoller Rose- The 2020 Stoller Rose is an awesome new release. Right away the wine reveals watermelon and Pink Lady apple tones alongside orange blossom on this beautiful nose. The palate is fresh, vibrant and wonderfully textured. Very pretty red fruits dance with minerals, damp earth and orange rind tones. Drink 2021-2025- 91




2020 Toil Oregon Rose- Year after year, Toil Oregon continue to produce a really serious Rose, with an electric color and fabulous aromatic and flavor range. This 2020 edition shows lovely earthy tones alongside Yakima cherry, white peach and shades of guava puree that all dazzle in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant but also beautifully textured. Ripe red fruits collide with smoke, kumquat zest, peat moss and wild mushroom on the palate. The flavor range is nothing short of outstanding. The gratifying length adds to the enjoyment, as this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2027- 93



2020 Walter Scott Rose- Ken always mentioned that he swore he would never made Rose. The wine utilizes Aryln Vineyard Gamay as well as Freedom Hill and Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir that was whole cluster pressed. This shows pretty guava and cranberry flavors with bright acidity and a smooth texture. This is very nuanced stuff with orange rind, wild mushroom and peat moss accents. Drink 2021-2025- 92




WASHINGTON





Top Values  ($25.00 and under): 




2020 14 Hands Rose- Lean but showing good freshness, this outstanding value wine reveals delicate red fruits that mingle with kiwi and gooseberry tones on the palate. This is great for the price. Drink 2021-2023- 88




2020 Mark Ryan ‘Lu & Oly Flowerhead’ Rose- Light and dazzling with its tension, this delivers delicate red cherry and strawberry tones with good acidity and light orange rind undertones. Drink 2021-2023- 88




2020 Cairdeas Rose- Fresh and lively, with good verve, this new Rose delivers straightforward ripe red fruits with stony minerals and good earthy undertones. Very lively, enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2021-2023- 89




2020 Charles and Charles Rose- A blend that combines Syrah and Grenache, the 2020 Charles and Charles Rose delivers light red currant, watermelon and damp earthy tones on the palate. Fresh, enjoy this good value over the next several years.  Drink 2021-2023- 88




2020 Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Le Rose’ Rose- Chateau Ste. Michelle has crafted this limited production Rose for 2020 that blends 79% Cabernet Sauvignon with 21% Syrah. The good sense of mouthfeel is appealing as the Rose exhibits melon and ripe Yakima cherry tones with plenty of minerals. Enjoy now. Drink 2021-2023- 90





2020 Chateau Ste. Michelle Rose- Fresh and vibrant, the 2020 Chateau Ste. Michelle Rose has light red raspberry and Bing cherry tones alongside minerals and shades of sweetened lemon rind on the palate. Drink 2021-2023- 89




2020 Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Rose- This shows good finesse with ripe cherry and wild mushroom tones on the palate, showing off its earthy edge. Mineral-driven, enjoy this in the short-term while the freshness remains. Drink 2021-2023- 88




2020 Columbia Winery Rose- This is mainly Syrah (95%), as the wine delivers forward red fruits and melon tones alongside a  good air of freshness. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2021-2023- 87




2019 DAMA Wines Rose- Entirely made from Cabernet Franc grapes, the 2020 DAMA Rose shows bright green apple and kiwi with nectarine flavors, alongside a great veil of minerality. Brighter red fruits and orange rind undertones add to the complexity here, as this delicate and intricate style of Rose would be a marvelous combination with fresh Kusshi oysters. Drink 2021-2024- 90




2020 Fortuity Cellars Rose- The 2020 Fortuity Cellars Rose is crafted from Cinsault grapes sourced from the Yakima Valley. The nose is very pretty with red florals that mingle with honeydew melon and Yakima cherry tones that all march in unison. The palate is fresh and nicely structured with delicate red fruits that dance with minerals, Mandarin orange water and damp earthy undertones. Drink 2021-2025- 90




2020 Goose Ridge Rose- Lithe and showing off a vibrant color, the 2020 Goose Ridge Rose reveals wet stone and orange rind accents alongside the core of slightly sweet red fruits and watermelon. Drink 2020-2023- 88




2020 Milbrandt ‘Lulu’ Rose- This shows plenty of bright red fruits and bubblegum favors with brisk acidity and citrus rind accents. The freshness suggests this should be enjoyed soon. Drink 2021-2024- 89



2020 Purple Star Rose- Consistently one of the great value Rose wines made in the state, this is another awesome rendition in the 2020 vintage by Kyle Johnson. Ripe watermelon with cantaloupe, red cherry candy and bubblegum tones all mark the palate. Enjoy this delicious new Rose over the next five years. Drink 2021-2026- 90



2020 Seven Hills Rose- This outstanding value Rose shows good elegance and a soft texture. Very delicate red fruits collide with minerals, wet stone and watermelon flavors. Drink 2021-2025- 90



2020 Sin Banderas Rose- This light pink shaded Rose shows good astringency and a soft texture. Very delicate red fruits mingle with red rose water and shades of Japanese pear on the palate. Drink 2021-2024- 89



2020 Smak Wines ‘Spring’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Spring Rose’ is a bright and inviting new 100% Sangiovese Rose release by Fiona Mak. The nose is nicely fragrant with honeysuckle and orange blossom tones that mingle with peach and wet stone undertones. The palate is restrained in terms of fruit flats but shows wonderful nuance especially once warmed up a bit. Wet gravel, green apple, unripe melon and very delicate red fruits greet you, with great acidity. Drink 2021-2025- 91


2020 Smak Wines ‘Summer’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Summer’ Rose is lighter than color than the other two bottlings, as this is 100% Pinot Gris sourced from the ‘Gamache Vineyard.’ This too shows considerable more complexity once warmed up a bit. The combination of weight and finesse is really nice as layers of honeydew melon, bright starfruit and wet stone come together with Japanese pear accents. Drink this delightful release over the next several years. Drink 2021-2025- 91 




2020 Smak Wines ‘Fall/Winter’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Fall/Winter’ Rose is 100% Syrah sourced from the ‘Gamache Vineyard’ in the Columbia Valley. This was aged in 100% neutral oak and was given considerable lees stirring prior to bottling. This Syrah Rose shows off a beautiful texture with layers of pretty red raspberry, strawberry and guava, with cantaloupe and damp stone undertones. In terms of texture and brightness, this shows closer to a bigger style of Bandol than the bunch. Drink 2021-2026- 91




2020 SoDo Cellars ‘Love Birds’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Love Birds’ Rose is a serious value in Washington Rose. Pretty nectarine and Yakima cherry tones alongside guava and wet stone undertones all mark the nose. The palate shows just a hint of residual sugar alongside amazing freshness and bright red fruits with melon tones. This is amazing juice for the price. Drink 2021-2024- 90



2020 Spring Run Rose- The 2020 Spring Run shows just a kiss of sweetness with lovely melon and red currant tones, with pomegranate seed and earthy accents. The feeling of minerality is really nice here, as this is best consumed over the next few years. Drink 2021-2024- 90


2020 TruthTeller ‘Quip’ Rose- The Mourvedre based 2020 ‘Quip’ Rose is a killer value that shines with its bright acidity, delivering gobs of juicy red fruits that combine with orange rind, white rose water and smoky undertones. Add a light dusting of salinity and you have a really good wine for the price. Drink 2020-2024- 90



2020 Underground Wine Project ‘And Why am I Mr. Pink?’ Rose- Produced as a joint project between Trey Busch and Mark Ryan McNeily, this pale colored rose reveals light guava and red cherry tones alongside a good veil of tension. While not particularly dense, this is very refreshing stuff. Drink 2021-2023- 89



Top Wines:



2020 Amavi Cellars Rose- The 2020 Amavi Cellars Rose is an elegant and beautifully textured wine made by the talented Jean-Francois Pellet. Rose water and orange blossom aromas fill the nose with shades of nectarine as this comes off very high-toned. The palate is soft and delicate with pretty red fruits that mingle with mineral, peach and Japanese pear flavors with faint damp earthy accents. Gorgeous in its youth, this has some aging potential, becoming more earthy as it ages. Drink 2021-2026- 92

2020 Avennia ‘L’Egerie’ Rose- This gorgeous new bottling shows very pretty guava, white peach and cranberry flavors alongside a beautiful texture and veil of tension. Medium to full-bodied, with great acidity and citrus/earthy undertones, this outstanding effort has at least another five years to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2026- 92



2020 Baer Rose- Made entirely from ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc grapes, the wine shows off a slightly darker hue than the 2019 edition. The freshness imparted is just as good with great acidity and a soft texture. Layers of green apple and cantaloupe mingle with shades of Yakima cherry on the palate. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Cayuse Vineyards ‘Edith’ Rose- The 2018 ‘Edith’ Rose is a highly refreshing and gratifying new wine that is amongst the best of its kind in North America. Sourced from the ‘Armada Vineyard’, once on the nose this takes on pretty red rose petals that mingle with cantaloupe and wet stone and smoky tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is wonderfully fresh and vibrant with great acidity and a seamless texture. Layers of Gravenstein apple, watermelon, nectarine and kumquat zest collide with minerals and smoky undertones on this complex palate. As the wine warms up, it becomes even more nuanced and complex, still showing wonderful mouth-watering acidity. Scintillating in its youth, this stunning new Rose will enjoy another eight plus years of life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2028- 94



2020 Cote Bonneville Rose- Made from Cabernet Franc grapes, this shows off guava and pink grapefruit blossom alongside shades of gooseberry and earthy underrtones on the nose. The palate is smooth and exceedingly polished with bright acidity and a silky mouthfeel. Lush red fruits collide with Japanese pear and white peach flavors alongside a bright sense of minerality. Drink 2021-2026- 92



2020 Devison Rose- Delicate and very pretty, the 2020 Devison Rose shows wet stone and melon aromatics with very light red fruits that parade on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with lighter cantaloupe and kiwi flavors that collide with red cherry and red raspberry. Lithe, and nicely textured, this beautiful wine is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2021-2025- 91



2020 Dunham Cellars Rose- Dunham has been making this Cabernet Franc Rose since 2015. This is their first year sourcing from the Gamache Vineyard. Aged in stainless steel, this shows pretty red rose petals and white peach tones aromatically alongside shades of wet stone. The bright acidity is impressive, as is the sense of mouthfeel.  Ripe guava and melon tones mingle with wet stone and tons of lip-smacking acidity. Drink 2021-2026- 91




2020 DeLille Cellars Rose- The 2020 Rose by DeLille Cellars has only slightly changed their blend, having 52% Mourvedre, and 43% Grenache with a splash of Cinsault. The nose is wonderfully earthy with melon, citrus blossom and watermelon tones that round out the nose. The mouthfeel and texture of the wine is seriously good. This is refreshing style of Rose with bright red fruits that shows a great sense of weight and length. Gratifying to drink now, this has some cellaring potential. Drink 2021-2028- 93



2020 EFESTE ‘Oldfield Estate’ Rose- This vintage winemaker Mark Fiore has chosen not to add any Syrah, as this entirely Mourvedre and Grenache based. The nose shows very pretty high tones with red rose petals, orange peel, guava and shades of strawberry and damp earthy tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is beautifully textured with a bright sense of tension. Layers of pretty red fruits march on with melon and serious length. Drink 2021-2026- 92



2020 Gramercy Cellars Rose- Rich, beautifully textured and every bit outstanding, the 2020 Gramercy Cellars Rose is a silky blend of 50% Cinsault, 26% Grenache and 24% Syrah all sourced from the ‘Olsen Vineyard’ in the Yakima Valley. Pretty red raspberry and Bing cherry tones mingle with guava, orange zest and damp earthy tones on the nose. The palate is soft, round and very inviting. Silky and elegant, the palate delivers red rose water, stony minerals and a wealth of red fruits, with suggestions of wild mushroom. The long finish adds to the enjoyment. Sensational now, this has some good aging potential. Drink 2021-2026- 93




2020 J. Bookwalter ‘Scarlet Hexflame’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Scarlet Hexflame’ delivers plenty of sexy red fruits with racy acidity on the palate. While on the leaner side, the outstanding sense of minerality really makes this need a hot summer day. Combine with fresh Kushii oysters. Drink 2021-2025- 90



2020 J.  Bookwalter ‘Winter Rose’ Rose- Dark and brooding for a Rose once in the glass, the 2020 ‘Winter Rose’ has wonderful weight and texture that impresses. Sensational now with its pretty red fruits and earthy tones, this has some cellaring potential based on the combination of depth and finesse. Drink 2021-2027- 91




2020 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose is another impressive bottling by famed winemaker Gilles Nicault. 100% Pinot Gris sourced from the the Yakima Valley, and was whole cluster pressed. Right away this shows peach and orange rind tones alongside wet stone, strawberry and shades of wild mushroom on the nose. The palate is beautifully textured with a great sense of weight and finesse. Kiwi and Mandarin orange rind flavors collide with minerals, wet stone and guava tones. Fresh and lithe,  this has some nice medium-term cellaring potential. This is very nuanced stuff. Drink 2021-2025- 91



2020 Kerloo Cellars ’Lonesome Springs. Vineyard’ Rose- The 2018 ‘Lonesome Springs Vineyard’ Rose is 60% Mourvedre with the remainder Grenache all sourced from the Lonesome Springs Vineyard. This was entirely aged in concrete and was left on the lees before a clean racking prior to bottling. This vintage contains slightly more Mourvedre and shows a nice aromatic range from pretty red fruits to kiwi and melon tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is silky smooth with a marvelous sense of texture. This is really highly nuanced Rose with the wet stone and orange rind character alongside the lighter melon and strawberry tones. This has outstanding length, providing the resounding crescendo. Drink 2021-2026- 92



2020 Pursued By Bear ‘Blushing Bear’ Rose- The 2020 ‘Blushing Bear’ is a beautiful new Rose made by Dan Wampfler. Once on the nose this takes on Bing cherry, damp earth and blood orange zest that all take shape in the glass. The palate is very stony and earthy, with a polished texture. Very delicate red currant and red raspberry flavors mingle with minerals, wet stone, and lemon zest.  This is very fresh and vibrant Rose that is best enjoyed over the next few years. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2020 Saviah Rose- Made from Barbera and Sangiovese grapes from the Dugger Creek Vineyard, the 2020 Saviah Rose saw all stainless steel aging. The soft texture and sense of finesse is outstanding as cantaloupe, kumquat zest and watermelon flavors collide with ripe Yakima cherry, minerals and earthy accents. This is a beautiful effort that  Drink 2020-2025- 91



2020 The Walls ‘Cruel Summer’ Rose- This pale colored Rose wine shows some really good aromatic range from green apple and melon tones to wet stone and high-toned strawberry, adding some good complexity. The palate is soft and round with a generous texture. The flavors almost mimic the aromas but in a good way, with even more earthy undertones of damp earth. Great to consume now, this beautiful wine shows better at a warmer temperature, reveling in considerably more complexity. Drink 2021-2025- 91


2020 Time & Direction Rose-Just the faintest hue of pink, the 2020 Time & Direction Rose is a beautiful and delicate new release wine. Once on the palate, the freshness and texture of the wine really impress with a light dusting of salinity. Wet stone, peat moss and melon tones combine with shades of Yakima cherry and kiwi on the palate. Just wait for the exceedingly good finish.  Drink 2021-2025- 91




2020 Tranche ‘Pink Pape’ Rose- Minerals, green apple and very fresh red fruits all brilliantly combine on the palate. Soft, with a smooth mouthfeel and great veil of tension, this is outstanding stuff to enjoy right now. Drink 2021-2026- 91




2020 Upsidedown Wine ‘Rescue’ Rose- The ‘Rescue’ Rose saw a touch of puncheon fermentation as this was largely aged in stainless steel. Right away the wine shows pretty white rose petals with white peach, red raspberry and stony undertones on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant with great acidity. Layers of pretty red fruits collide with minerals, citrus rind and wet stone accents on the palate. Drink 2021-2025- 91




2020 Walla Walla Vintners Rose- This shows off nectarine with ripe pear and melon tones. On the nose. The freshness, finesse and soft mouthfeel does its thing marvelously as melon, kiwi and wet stone flavors nicely combine with minerals. The length and texture is great. Drink 2021-2025- 90



2019 XOBC ‘Evangeline’ Rose- One of the few Rose wines produced from Rocks District, the outstanding 2019 ‘Evangeline’ Rose combines equal parts Grenache and Syrah. The palate displays a downright thrilling texture, deftly combining with the stony accents of this highly nuanced Rose. White rose water, wet stone, cantaloupe and green apple flavors all meld together, with very delicate red fruits. This is one to buy by the case. Drink 2021-2027- 92

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Chris Upchurch crafts some incredible wines for his Upchurch Vineyard.

Chris Upchurch crafts some incredible wines for his Upchurch Vineyard.

Upchurch Vineyard Vertical Tasting

June 8, 2021

As we all sat and marveled at the wines, we began with a marvelous speech by the maestro himself. Famed Washington winemaker Chris Upchurch talked about his background at DeLille and producing one of North America’s top Bordeaux style white wines before starting his own project, Upchurch Vineyard. We all sat and listened as he shared his thoughts on each individual vintage. It was such a fantastic tasting experience going back into time and tasting every vintage of Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of the wines were graciously brought by my friend Erik Meyer. 

One thing that struck me was the consistent fruit quality exhibited in each wine. Obviously coming from Red Mountain and a very warm growing environment that brings challenges and advantages each vintage. One thing that stuck me was how well the cold vintage wines showed. I was floored with the 2010 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) which is refined and showing a Bordelaise edge now at the eleven year mark. Another surprise was the sinfully good 2013 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which was silky and dense with refined tannins and a massive core of dark fruits. The best wines that we tried for my palate were the 2012, 2014 and 2018 wines (all OB, 96). These wines shared a similar vein in the weightless character as well as the elegance and power, with 2014 showing the most power and 2012 the most elegance. These are some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon wines made in their respective vintages. Learn more about these sensational wines at upchurchvineyard.com and here are my tasting notes from my Upchurch Vineyard Vertical Tasting. 



2010 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Taken from this cool vintage, the 2010 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon shows off dark florals with red bell pepper and sagebrush tones alongside huckleberry on the nose. The palate is savory and refined with layers of rich dark fruits and chocolate tones alongside menthol undertones on the palate. This is truly singing right now. I would drink this over the next few years. Drink 2021-2026- 93



2011 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Showing brilliantly considering the coolness of the vintage, the 2011 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon opens with ripe red fruits that collide with black tea and shades of milk chocolate on the palate. This is a touch leaner but shows really good finesse and a soft mouthfeel. This is definitely at its peak. Drink 2021-2024- 92



2012 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Singing and highly youthful now at the nine year mark, the 2012 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon shows highly perfumed black rose and red bell pepper, tobacco and rich black fruits. The palate is silky and elegant with light tannins that frame wild blackberry cordial and coffee ground flavors with shades of graphite. This beauty is absolutely singing now and has another decade to go. Drink 2021-2031- 96



2013 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2013 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a highly perfumed and intense effort that is absolutely sensational to enjoy right now. The palate is dense, decadent and downright magical. Tar and anise tones combine with blueberry compote, boysenberry and smoky minerals on the palate. Dense and showing a hedonistic bent, this extraordinary effort is right at the perfect spot. Right now this powerhouse wine shows no signs of giving up. Drink 2021-2033- 95



2014 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- I adore the 2014 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon which is really just starting to shed its baby fat. Ripe dark currants collide with smoke, sweet pipe tobacco, dark florals and sandalwood tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush, dense and highly hedonistic. Layers of creme de cassis, anise, dark chocolate covered espresso bean, leather, garrigue and huckleberry come together on the palate, with firm tannins and a sterling tension. Gorgeous to enjoy now at the seven year mark , this gratifying effort will continue to provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2035- 96



2015 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is showing brilliantly now and is probably peaking at this juncture. Once on the nose this takes on rich dark fruits with creosote and scorched earth toners. The p[alate is dense and hedonistic with layers of black fruits with firm tannins and tar with tobacco leaf. Drink 2021-20231- 94



2016 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Stunning now at five years, the 2016 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon exudes class with sagebrush tones that combine with boysenberry preserves, black rose and shades of tar on the nose. The palate is dense and plush with a soft mouthfeel. Tar, anise and creme de cassis collide with minerals and herbal undertones on the palate. Gorgeous now, this is really only starting to hit its stride. Drink 2021-2038- 95



2017 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon takes the lead with gorgeous black floral aromatics that mingle with espresso bean, black currants and tar. The palate is soft and highly gratifying.Layers of rich dark fruits collide with tar, Turkish coffee, marionberry cobbler and black licorice with anise accents all marvelously combine. Silky tannins and a very long finish add to the enjoyment here as this beautiful wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2038- 95



2018 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- Massive and brooding, the 2018 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a sensational effort in this fabulous vintage for red wine on Red Mountain. Once on the nose pretty dark florals combine with espresso bean and blackberry cordial tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is deep, concentrated and downright seductive. Mocha, anise, creme de cassis and blueberry pie flavors provide an exotic edge. Simply magical in its youth, this has another twenty years head of it. Drink 2021-2040- 96

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