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Owen Bargreen

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Here we have the gorgeous new Nicolas Jay wines.

Domaine Nicolas Jay

December 16, 2021

It has now been over a year since I have had the chance to taste one of the great boutique wineries in Oregon. Domaine Nicolas-Jay is a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo (Domaine Méo-Camuzet) and Jay Boberg, co-founder of the music label, IRS Records. Jean-Nicolas Meo has experience working with grand crus of Burgundy and has translated that into understanding Oregon terroir. Jean-Nicolas has truly produced wines from some of the finest vineyards in Burgundy such as the Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Clos Rognet and Echezeaux vineyards. Jay Boberg serves as cellar rat and aids assistant winemaker Tracy Kendall. The winery sources from their estate Bishop Creek Vineyard on in the Yamhill-Carlton appellation, as well as grapes from other outstanding Willamette Valley vineyards, including Nysa, Momtazi, Hyland and La Colina.

I have been quite impressed with these wines since they were first released in 2014 and I really enjoyed the new release wines. The 2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Affinites’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) is very fresh and Burgundian with its mushroom and flinty notes. Even better is the sinfully good 2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Nysa Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is big and burly with plenty of bright acidity and serious aging potential. Learn more about this gorgeous producer at https://www.nicolas-jay.com and here are my tasting notes from the outstanding 2019 Nicolas Jay wines.


2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Affinites’ Chardonnay  The 2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Affinites’ Chardonnay was stored in neutral French oak before bottling as a portion of the wine was sourced from their estate Bishop Creek Vineyard. Fresh and polished, this unveils wild mushroom and flinty tones alongside lemon zest on the palate. Finishing long with vanilla cream and minerals, this has the stuffing to cellar well for another decade Drink 2021-2031- 92


2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir was aged in 20% new French oak before bottling. This is silky, medium-bodied Pinot Noir has a long life ahead of it with its bright core of teaberry and red currant flavors with citrus rind and black truffle shaving accents. Fresh and lively, this is already nicely evolved. Drink 2021-2029- 92


2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Bishop Creek’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Bishop Creek’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous new bottling by Jean-Nicolas Méo and Tracy Kendall. Sourced from 30 year old vines, this Pinot Noir unveils pretty red rose water aromatics alongside shades of red raspberry and cloves, with damp earthy accents. The palate is fresh and vibrant with serious acidity and a good sense of weight with its core of red and dark fruits. Gorgeous now, this will cellar well for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2021-2036- 93


2019 Nicolas Jay ‘L’Ensemble’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Nicolas Jay ‘L’Ensemble’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous new wine by this famed Willamette Valley winery. Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley AVAs, this was stored in 35% new French oak prior to bottling. Vibrant, with loads of refinement and a soft texture, the wine slowly unveils layers of pretty guava and red currant flavors alongside orange zest and stony undercurrents on the palate.  This has formidable heft considering some of the challenges of this cooler vintage. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Nysa Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- A simply outstanding release, the 2019 ‘Nysa Vineyard’ shows the weight and balance that the Dundee Hills is known for. A very black fruit-driven profile, this unveils huckleberry and wild blackberry flavors alongside stony and earthy undertones. With gobs of mouth-watering acidity and citrus rind undertones, this complex and downright delicious wine is already showing beautifully in its youth — and will continue to evolve well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2021-2036- 94


2019 Nicolas Jay ‘Own Rooted’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Own Rooted’ comes from several sites in the Willamette Valley including the Bishop Creek, Hyland and Nysa Vineyards. Very bold and polished on the mouth, with plenty of finesse, this red fruit-driven wine reveals pretty red raspberry and strawberry tones alongside the bright acidity. Finishing long with red fruits and stony minerals, this outstanding new bottling will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 94

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Here we have the glorious new wines by Brittan Vineyards.

Brittan Vineyards

December 16, 2021

Sitting down with Robert Brittan you can feel the power of his 45 harvests. Many years ago I was introduced to the amazing wines of Brittan Vineyards and the talented Robert Brittan, who was the former winemaker at Stags’ Leap Winery in Napa. Robert is a graduate of the UC Davis Viticulture and Enology program and founded Brittan Vineyards in 2004, acquiring a 128-acre hillside property with soils that are a mixture of glacial deposits and volcanic material, with a predominant presence of broken basalt. The volcanic material brings out a terrific stony quality in the Pinot Noirs. In addition to the Pinot Noir, Robert has 4 acres of Chardonnay and 1.5 acres of Syrah have been planted. In addition to his own wines, Robert serves as the winemaker for several other brands, including Blakeslee, de Lancellotti, Fairsing, Noble Pig, Winderlea and Youngberg Hill. 

I recently tried the 2016 Brittan Chardonnay which was absolutely singing. These wines have some really nice aging potential. releases recently. Don’t miss the new 2019 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is viscous with serious range. Nearly as good was the 2019 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is dense and chewy with some good aging potential. . Learn more about the great wines of Brittan Vineyards at http://www.brittanvineyards.com Here are the brilliant Pinot Noir releases by Brittan Vineyards.  


2018 Brittan Vineyards Sparkling Wine- One of the terrific sparkling wines made in Oregon, the 2018 Brittan Vineyards blends 52% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir. Immediately showing a soft mousse, this reveals lovely pink grapefruit and kumquat tones alongside toasty brioche and salty undercurrents on the palate. With good weight and finesse, this has another decade in front of it. Drink 2021-2029- 92


2019 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- Truly one of the brilliant Chardonnays made in Oregon, the 2019 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Chardonnay is a colossal value at 45 bucks. Once on the mouth the silky mouthfeel really sings as layers of buttered French bread, marzipan, macadamia nut and honeydew melon all collide with shades of wet stone on the palate. Refined and rich, showing good depth, this world-class Chardonnay will surely cellar for another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 94


2019 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from their stony site roughly 12 miles southwest of McMinneville in the foothills of the Coastal Range, the ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir is selected from various sites across his vineyard, all set on broken Basalt.  The wine utilizes clonal selections Pommard, 777, 115, 667 and Swan. Right away you get the lovely sense of volcanic earth on the nose with ripe red currants and black raspberry tones. The palate is dense and stony with serious finesse and good weight. Gorgeous now this will continue to evolve in the cellar for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 93

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Great photo of the owners of Bodegas Muga.

Bodegas Muga

December 16, 2021

It has now been several years since I have visited one of the finest houses in Rioja, Bodegas Muga. A family business founded by Isaac Muga and Aurora Caño in 1932, the winery is located in the historic Barrio de La Estación (Station Quarter) of Haro. With their properties spanning 25,000 square metres, Muga utilizes both very traditional and modern winemaking techniques. Muga is also the only cellar in Spain with a master cooper and three in-house barrel-makers. Hospitality at Muga is also world-class.

For years I have enjoyed these wines, particularly their value driven bottlings. I recently had the chance to visit one of their top wines, their ‘Torre Muga’ bottling which is a heady, more modern style of Rioja that is sourced from vineyards that are slightly lower elevation. Both the new release 2016 and the older 2015 ‘Torre Muga’ wines showed brilliantly. The 2016 might be a touch more age worthy and is less approachable right now but will surely survive 20 years or more. Learn more about this famed winery at https://www.bodegasmuga.com and here are my reviews of the last two releases of Bodegas Muga ‘Torre Muga.’


2016 Bodegas Muga ‘Torre Muga’ Rioja- Every bit decadent, the brilliant 2016 Bodega Muga ‘Torre Muga’ Rioja is one of the great wines of its kind that I have tasted this year. Sourced from vineyards set at roughly 500 meters, this spent 18 months in French oak prior to bottling. A bit more tannic and brooding than the 2015 bottling, this unveils shades of tar alongside rich dark fruit flavors with dark chocolate dusted espresso bean tones on the palate. Simply magical to consume right now, do your best to give this another two years for things to fully come together. Drink 2023-2044- 96


2015 Bodegas Muga ‘Torre Muga’ Rioja- This densa and very modern style of Rioja is nothing short of a sensational bottling by Bodega Muga that beautifully showcases the warmth of the vintage. The 2015 ‘Torre Muga’ Rioja blends 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 10% Graciano, as the wine reveals heady roasted fig, black currant and orange peel tones alongside highly refined tannins. The weight and the length of the wine add to the enjoyment, as this will easily be a 20 year Rioja. If enjoying now, be sure to give this beauty a two hour decant. Drink 2022-2040- 95

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Here we have the gorgeous new 2019 Kongsgaard Chardonnay.

Kongsgaard

December 16, 2021

A famed producer of Chardonnay in North America, Kongsgaard was founded by a fifth generation Napan,  John Kongsgaard. Amazingly the Kongsgaard family have been in the Napa area since the 1840s. John’s grandfather owned a stone quarry in Napa and John’s father was a Napa County Superior Court judge for more than twenty years. Following graduating high school in the late 1960’s John Kongsgaard completed the UC Davis masters in enology and viticulture program. For a short time he worked at the Stony Hill winery in Napa and then worked for at Newton Vineyards as the winemaker from 1983 to 1996. John also studied under eminent wine consultant Michel Rolland. He has a Burgundian feel to all his wines and John has indicated that Michel Rolland had a profound influence in his style of winemaking. In 2004 John bought a 150 acre parcel of land on Atlas Peak where vines planted sit at as far up as 2500 feet. His property has a mere five acres planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Roussanne and Viognier.

I adored the new wine that he produced. The 2019 Kongsgaard ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) is fresh and viscous with gobs of tension and beautiful length. Learn more about this magical winery at http://www.kongsgaardwine.com Here is my review of the scintillating 2019 Chardonnay release by Kongsgaard.


2019 Kongsgaard ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2019 Kongsgaard ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay is a glorious release that is just starting to hit its stride. Once on the nose this takes on layers of orchard fruits woven together with shades of roasted pineapple and vanilla creme brulee. Soft and ripe on the palate, this shows serious viscosity and tension. Suggestions of cardamom dusted French bread and mango combine with ripe nectarine and a very long, cream and mineral-driven finish, While a delight to consume now, this outstanding 2019 Chardonnay well for more than a decade to come. Drink 2021-2035- 95

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Here we have the extraordinary 1994 Graham’s ‘Single Harvest’ Tawny Port.

Graham's Port

December 15, 2021

For nearly 200 years W & J Graham’s has been an independent family business producing Port wines. Graham's was one of the first Port companies to invest in its own vineyards in Portugal’s Douro Valley in 1890 and today, five Symington cousins share responsibility for every aspect of the company and personally make the Graham’s wines. They too have been involved with Port and the Douro for many generations, with ancestry dating back to the mid-17th century.

Graham’s first harvest under the ownership of the Symington family came with the famed Graham’s 1970 Vintage Port being declared. The 1970 is thought by many to be one of the greatest wines of that century. Nearly an hundred years after their ancestor AJ Symington left Graham’s to set up on his own as a Port producer, the family’s relationship with this Port house came full circle. Besides the family’s other Port marques, Graham’s is the only remaining British Port company independently owned by a single family. Learn more about this historic Port house at https://www.grahams-port.com/ and here is my reviews of the extraordinary 1994 Graham’s ‘Single Harvest’ Tawny Port and the even better 2017 Graham’s Vintage Port.

2017 Graham’s Vintage Port- Dense and brooding once in the glass, the 2017 Graham’s Port is an astonishingly good new wine that will surely stand the test of time. Crafted from the earliest harvest in history, a massive cloud of dark and blue fruits greet you aromatically with toffee and Arabica bean notes. Viscous and dense on the palate, this reveals heady blackberry, black cherry cordial and mocha flavors alongside a brilliant sense of tension. Wait for the exceedingly long finish! Drink 2030-2055- 96


1994 Graham’s ‘Single Harvest’ Tawny Port- Beautifully evolved now, the 1994 Graham’s ‘Single Harvest’ Tawny Port is really right in its sweet spot. Bright acidity combines with shades of Macadamia nut crusted toffee and bright red fruits on the palate. Silky and elegant, this finishes exceedingly long with vanilla bean cream and creme caramel. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2021-2033- 94

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Here we have the gorgeous 2017 ‘Oreno.’

Tenuta Sette Ponti 'Oreno'

December 15, 2021

One of the great wines of the world, the ‘Oreno’ by Tenuta Sette Ponte comes from vineyards located in Chianti, between Arezzo and Florence. The winery is named after the number of bridges that cross the river Arno between the two cities. Their top wine is named after the river that crosses the estate, the ‘Oreno.’ I have enjoyed this seamless wine for many years and have been stuck by the consistency regardless of vintage. The blend is always a combination of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The wine is always aged in French oak for 18 months and then spends another 12 months in bottle prior to release. 

I recently had the chance to visit two of these beautiful wines. Taken from a challenging vintage, the 2014 ‘Oreno’ (OB, 93) is a beautifully balanced effort that is already quite evolved and will cellar well over the next decade. It is a flat out delicious effort that is one of the great wines from 2014 that I have tasted for the price. Even better is the sinfully good 2017 ‘Oreno’ (OB, 95) which is dense, chewy and filled with silky tannins and plenty of depth and finesse. This beautiful wine is sure to impress any lover of Italian Super Tuscans. Learn more about this famed property at https://www.tenutasetteponti.it/tenutasetteponti/en/oreno/ and here are my reviews of the 2014 and 2017 ‘Oreno’ red wines.


2014 Tenuta Sette Ponte ‘Oreno’ Red Wine- Considering the vintage, the color in the 2014 ‘Oreno’ comes off as quite dark. A compelling blend of 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, this shows dried herbs, leather and black currant tones that all fill the nose. The palate is lightly tannic with medium-bodied dark fruit flavors alongside shades of orange rind and tobacco leaf come together beautifully. While not as decadent as some other vintages, this comes off with excellent finesse, as this outstanding red blend is drinking marvelously now and will continue to impress over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2017 Tenuta Sette Ponte ‘Oreno’ Red Wine- The 2017 Tenuta Sette Ponte ‘Oreno’ Red Wine is a stunning effort that is already beautifully evolved now at the four year mark. 50% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the remainder 10% Petit Verdot, this is ripe and plump once on the mouth with velvety tannins. Broad-shouldered, with gobs of finesse, the wine shows off heady dark fruit flavors with pipe tobacco and bitter chocolate undercurrents. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this exceptional ‘Oreno’ will surely cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2037- 95

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Here we have one of the shockingly beautiful labels for Amuse Bouche wines.

Amuse Bouche

December 15, 2021

A brilliant joint Napa Valley project between Heidi Barrett and John Schwartz, Amuse Bouche has created a gorgeous new set of release wines. Famed winemaker Heidi Barrett grew up in the Napa Valley in a winemaking family and was destined to become one of the region’s great winemakers. Many note that winemaking is a blend of science and art. With a scientist-winemaker father and an artist mother it is no big surprise that Heidi crafts such beautiful wines.

In 2002, Heidi partnered with longtime friend John Schwartz to create Amuse Bouche, a Pomerol-inspired Merlot from Napa Valley. Recognizing that the cult wine phenomenon has created an almost aspirational class structure among collectors, the partners decided to make this limited edition wine available to a much broader consumer base.  Each label includes  limited edition art which really gives this bottle some curb appeal. They also have a tasting room in downtown Napa that is open by appointment.

I was blown away with the new wines by Amuse Bouche. Check out the pillowy 2018 Amuse Bouche Red Wine (OB, 96) which is dense and chewy with fantastic texture and finesse. This beautiful wine will cellar well for another twenty years to come. Learn more about this famed Napa project at http://www.amusebouchewine.com/index.php and here are the brilliant new wines by Amuse Bouche.


2019 Amuse Bouche ‘LeRoy Neiman’ Red Wine- The 2019 Amuse Bouche ‘LeRoy Neiman’ is named after LeRoy Neiman (1921-2012) who was one of America's best known artists and utilized an impressionistic style. A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Syrah, and 10% Petite Sirah with small parts Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this reveals alluring aromas of sandalwood and granite with exotic spices alongside a core of bright dark fruits. The palate is fresh and refined with layers of cocoa powder, wet stone, wild blackberry and black cherry syrup. Beautifully balanced, this medium-bodied effort will sure have another fifteen years ahead of it.  Drink 2021-2036- 94


2019 Au Sommet Red Wine- Crafted by famed winemaker Heidi Barrett, the 2018 Au Sommet Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from their estate vineyard on Atlas Peak and this edition has 3% Petit Verdot blended in. Ripe dark currants collide with pencil lead, loamy soils and suggestions of baking spices with red rose water and green bell pepper tones on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, showing serious length and finesse, this complex and beautiful wine is already nicely evolved and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2036- 95


2018 Amuse Bouche Red Wine- The stunning 2018 Amuse Bouche is a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, showing the beautiful art of James Michalopoulos on the label. Gorgeous violet florals combine with red bell pepper, anise and creme de cassis on the nose. The palate shows beautiful depth and range, as this medium-bodied effort is an exceedingly pretty example of Napa Merlot, finishing long with red fruits and minerals. Sensational even at the three year mark, be sure to give this two hours of air in the decanter if consuming in its vibrant youth. Drink 2021-2038- 96

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Great photo here of DeLille Cellars Director of Winemaking, Jason Gorski.

DeLille Cellars D2 Vertical Tasting

December 3, 2021

DeLille Cellars D2 Vertical Tasting


It had been roughly six months since I had the chance to sit across from DeLille Cellars Director of Winemaking, Jason Gorski. On this festive occasion we had decided to taste vintages 2009-2019 of his ‘D2’ Red Wine — a wine that has gained considerable national attention since it was first made back in 1992. Jason offered some of his thoughts, noting “I think this is really cool to line this [tasting] up. For the 2009 vintage, I started at DeLille in March, when the wine was already blended - but fined the wine and got it ready for bottle. For the 2010, I was there for the blending process and bottling, and then for 2011 I was able to see the vintage from grape to bottle. You can see on the bottles how the label color changed from silver to gold, and on the last bottle the label has changed with a larger D2 on the label. This progression speaks to how the brand and cuvee have grown, and that the chateau is not really related to what we are doing now that we have moved to the Old Redhook Brewery location in Woodinville.

He continued “Since I came on board after blending, the '09 was already blended, and the 2010 vintage was the first opportunity for me to be involved with the blending process, which really allowed me my first chance to begin to understand how the wine comes together. 2012 was the first significant increase in production of this wine. We started buying grapes specifically for D2 and I started pushing with the founders to no longer describe D2 as a second, declassified, wine. This was now a wine with purpose.”

He continued “We want the Merlot to be 57% or higher, or the Cab can really take over the blend.  Some of the individual Merlots are big and bold on their own, but it is more about the red fruits that we want to get and the approachable, oak-kissed element. We are hoping to see how the oak has changed in this vertical tasting as we have backed off from oak a bit to allow for the fruit to speak more for itself. It is now 50-60% new and the 2009 from this tasting was closer to 100%.”


A Good Performance in Cooler Years


One thing I have noticed about top Washington producers is their 2010 and 2011 wines are performing well still in the glass. I’ve had several bottles of 2010 red wines that have lost their luster, fruit and acidity. Both DeLille D2s from 2010 and 2011 still showed lush fruit and are absolutely peaking but can be consumed over the next few years.


Warm Vintage Wines Stellar


Warm efforts from 2013, 2014 and 2016 all shone with more tar and scorched earth tones in 2013 and brighter acidity in 2014 and 2016. All three wines are drinking marvelously right now and can go for another decade. The 2013 is particularly plump and decadent right now, so why wait? Jason Gorski was surprised how well his 2013 turned out but I was not at all surprised, considering the beautiful 2013 red wines from Washington that I have tasted over the past year. This is an overlooked vintage, much akin to 2001 Bordeaux which followed a near perfect growing season. Don’t sleep on these 2013 wines.


Promise In New Wines


The 2019 D2 (OB, 91) still needs a bit of time to fully come together. It shows less depth and concentration than 2017 and 2018 bottling but is a stellar effort from this cooler vintage. I am downright enamored where the 2018 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ (OB, 93) is drinking right now. This beautiful wine has another twelve to fifteen years in front of it. Learn more about these great wines at delillecellars.com and here are my tasting notes from the vertical of 2009-2019 D2 Red Wine.


2009 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- This 2009 ’D2’ blends 55% Merlot with 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Nutty undertones combine with macerated red cherry and tobacco leaf on the nose. The palate is very fresh and lithe with a polished texture and a light dusting of salinity. This reveals plenty of mouth-watering acidity with pretty red fruits. Considering the warmth of the vintage this has aged really well, as this has at least another five years to go. Drink 2021-2027- 92


2010 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine-The 2010 ‘D2’ is a beautiful blend that exactly mirrors the 2009 version with 55% Merlot with 34% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Herbal undertones dominate the nose with fresh sage and thyme tones alongside black raspberry compote. The mouthfeel is soft and approachable with medium-bodied red cherry and red raspberry flavors alongside copious herbs and firm tannins on the palate. This is best consumed over the next few years. Drink 2021-2024- 90


2011 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- A blend of 56% Merlot with the remainder 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and small parts Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this is the first vintage utilizing Upchurch Vineyard fruit in this wine. The sense of balance here is really good with pretty red fruits that combine with salty loam soils, wild mushroom and sagebrush tones on the palate. Firm tannins hold things brilliantly in place. While great to consume now, this easily has another five years to go. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2012 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- The 2012 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ blends 50% Merlot with 42% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This is the first vintage utilizing Discovery Vineyard fruit. Ripe red cherry notes alongside underbrush and scorched earthy tones all fill the nose. There are many moving pieces aromatically. This is very seamless upon entry, finishing very long. The fruit quality here is considerably more pretty than the 2009-2011 wines, as this is extremely stable wine that has at least another decade to go. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2013 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- The 2013 ‘D2’ Red Wine is a compelling blend of 57% Merlot with 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. This shows considerably more non-fruit aromas with tar and tobacco leaf, as well as mocha tones that combine with rich dark fruit tones. Dense and heady with good viscosity and tension, this dark-fruit driven wine is showing beautifully right now and has another decade of life in front of it. This is the most hedonistic of the tasting from 2009-2013. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2014 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine-The 2014 blends 58% Merlot with 36% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This shows a gorgeous bouquet with dried herbs alongside tar, blackberry compote and shades of espresso bean. The palate is fresh and viscous with a good combination of black fruits and herbal undertones with freshly tilled soils and dark chocolate shavings. Finishing long, this is very youthful now and has at least another decade to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2015 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- A blend of 58% Merlot with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon with 6% Cabernet Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot. This was the last vintage they utilized Stillwater Creek Merlot. This is a touch leaner and more linear than vintages 2012-14. Herbal undertones combine with bright Bing cherry, salty soils and shades of scorched earth on the palate. Enjoy over the next five years. Drink 2021-2026- 91


2016 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- This 2016 vintage utilizes 59% Merlot with 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and small parts Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This shows heady aromatics of espresso bean, tilled soils and black currants that all take shape in the glass. The palate is plush with a soft mouthfeel and great feeling of length. Very black fruit driven, shades of creosote and coffee grounds with sagebrush all come together seamlessly with velvety tannins holding things in place. Gorgeous to consume now, this is really nicely balance stuff that has at least another twelve years in front of it. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2017 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- Really good already, the 2017 ‘D2’ red wine shows the highest percentage of Merlot that they have done to this point (66%). The nose shows very pretty high tones from the Merlot with red florals with cocoa powder and bright red fruits. The palate shows similarly to the nose with similar notes alongside brisk acidity and a soft mouthfeel with lighter refined tannins. The earthy components work well, as this beautiful wine still has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033-  92


2018 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine- The highest percentage of Merlot in this tasting (67%), the 2018 ‘D2’ is showing beautifully now at the three year mark. This is gorgeous wine even to consume right now with its gorgeous core of dark fruits with bitter chocolate and espresso grounds notes. Herbal undertones add to the enjoyment, as this shows beautiful length, verve and weight. This will easily cellar for twelve years. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2019 DeLille Cellars ‘D2’ Red Wine-The 2019 ‘D2’ is a blend of 60% Merlot with smaller portions Cabernet Sauvignon (34%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot (2%). Sagebrush with milk chocolate and wild blackberry tones all fill the nose. This is done in the fresher style with medium-bodied red currant and red cherry flavors alongside tobacco leaf, and leather on the palate.The sense of balance here is really good. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031-91

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Steve Reustle crafts a glorious range of wines for his namesake winery.

Reustle Vineyards

December 1, 2021

In Southern Oregon some producers struggle with mitigating the extreme heat conditions and pick when grapes have not met full phenolic ripeness. Such is not the case with Reustle, one of the top Southern Oregon producers. For many years I have admired the wines by Steve Reustle that show a great combination of freshness and finesse, yet display serious flavor density. Over the years Steve has gained a seriously good reputation particularly for his Syrah and Tempranillo bottlings. Having visited with him a few years back, you can really taste his attention to detail in the bottle. Steve and Gloria Reustle owned a successful marketing company before arriving in the Umpqua Valley of Oregon, Steve carefully mapped out 40 acres of vineyards to be planted. Each variety, clone, and rootstock was carefully selected to match the diverse hillside soil and unique micro-climates.

Steve has crafted a really great new range of wines. He made a killer new 2019 Reustle ‘Clone 23’ Riesling (OB, 90) which is fresh and vibrant with a polished texture. Even better is the gorgeous 2018 Reustle ‘Winemaker’s Reserve’ Tempranillo (OB, 93) which is amongst the finest Southern Oregon wines I have tasted over the past year. This deep and heady effort still has another decade or more in front of it. Learn more about this outstanding Southern Oregon producer at reustlevineyards.com and here are my tasting notes from the new Reustle wines. 


2020 Reustle Moscato- This shows bright acidity with slightly sweet peach, lychee and starfruit flavors. Finishing a bit short, enjoy this well-made Moscato to be consumed in the short-term. Drink 2021-2023- 88


2019 Reustle ‘Clone 23’ Riesling- Made in the Kabinett style, the ‘Clone 23’ delivers ripe nectarine, Pink Lady apple and wet stone flavors along a good veil of tension. The soft mouthfeel adds to the enjoyment. Enjoy in the short-term while the brightness remains intact. Drink 2021-2023- 90


2019 Reustle ‘Green Lizard’ Gruner Veltliner- The 2019 ‘Green Lizard’ shows off good freshness with green papaya, mango and sweetened Gravenstein apple flavors. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2021-2023- 89


2019 Reulstle ‘Estate Selection’ Gruner Veltliner- Made from Clone 01 grapes, the ‘Estate Selection’ reveals wet slate, orange peel and unripe honeydew melon flavors alongside a good veil of tension and a soft mouthfeel. Enjoy now while the freshness remains. Drink 2021-2024- 90


2019 Reustle ‘Estate Selection’ Tempranillo- The 2019 ‘Estate Selection’ Tempranillo is a great value with its core of acidity that lines a brilliant core of red cherry, red plum, blood orange zest, tobacco leaf and stony mineral tones on the palate. Medium-bodied and complex, this would pair well with a range of Spanish foods that compliment the acidity here. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2018 Reustle ‘Winemaker’s Reserve’ Tempranilo- The 2018 ‘Reserve’ Tempranillo is a gorgeous effort by Stephen Reustle. The sense of balance is gorgeous, as is the silky texture that makes this glide throughout the drinking experience. Layers of coffee grounds, tar and menthol, with blackberry compote all deliver plenty of hedonistic enjoyment. Sensational to savor in its youth, this has another ten to fifteen years left in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2017 Reustle ‘Estate Selection’ Merlot- Salty tones line a generous core of red fruit with tobacco and orange zest flavors. Medium-bodied and nicely structured, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 90


2019 Reustle ‘Estate Selection’ Malbec- Forward and juicy, the 2019 Malbec delivers plenty in terms of texture and ripe dark fruit flavors. Full-bodied, with bright acidity, this excellent effort will cellar well over the next ten years. Drink 2021-2031- 91


2019 Reustle ‘Estate Selection’ Syrah-The 2019 ‘Estate Selection’ Syrah by Reustle shows off Kirch cordial, smoke and tar all line the palate, with bright acidity and orange rind undertones. Medium-bodied, the sense of balance and smoky accents really make this sing. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2019 Reustle ‘Winemaker’s Reserve’ Syrah- The 2019 ‘Winemaker’s Reserve’ Syrah exudes class with black tea, exotic spices, and loads of red and dark fruits. With more air smoky tones and white pepper become more prominent, adding to the intrigue. Medium to full-bodied and downright delicious to savor now, this has another decade of life in front of it. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2015 Reustle ‘Rojo Dulce’ Dessert Wine- Inky dark and weighing in at 16% alcohol, the ‘Rojo Dulce’ shows and intense, hedonistic mouthfeel with gobs of sweetened dark and blue fruits with tobacco leaf, tar and bright acidity holding everything together. This is a seriously good effort that is best enjoyed over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2027- 92

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Here are the gorgeous 2019 Chardonnay releases by White Walnut.

White Walnut Estate

December 1, 2021

A little over a year ago I was approached by Chris Mazepink, former winemaker at Archery Summit. “I have a new project I want you to check out,” he said as my ears perked up. For years I had admired Chris’s unabashedly bold style of Dundee Hills Pinot Noir that brilliantly combined terroir and tension. I had many great visits to Archery Summit over the years — surely this would be an exciting new project!

Chris purchased land in the Dundee Hills back in 2013 with an intent to make world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Chris sensed the potential of the property as it is located adjacent to the vineyards of legendary Oregon wineries Domaine Drouhin and Archery Summit. Chris and his sons, Archer and Charles, cleared the land, by hand, in the summer of 2014 and then planted it to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in 2015 and 2016. They preserved the remaining walnut trees on the property that continue to produce fruit and are now well over 70 years old, standing stoic amongst the vines. 

I was the first wine critic to taste his new wines from the 2018 vintage which were glorious. His 2019 wines show slightly more minerality and slightly less weight than the ‘18s. They are every bit as good. Check out the delightful 2019 White Walnut 'Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) delivers really good range and a silky mouthfeel. Even better is the sensational 2019 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is more dense and intense, showing brilliant tension. Learn more about this outstanding new winery at https://www.whitewalnutestate.com Here are the great new wines by White Walnut. 


2019 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay- This limited production estate vineyard Chardonnay opens with pretty white flowers alongside orange blossom, hazelnut and green apple tones. The palate is silky and elegant with a seamless sense of mouthfeel and gorgeous length. Great to enjoy now, this outstanding Chardonnay will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2019 White Walnut ‘Estate North Blocks’ Chardonnay- The 2019 White Walnut ‘Estate North Blocks’ weighs in at a mere 12.7% alcohol. Soft and approachable once on the mouth, this unveils Meyer lemon zest alongside white peach, wet stone and suggestions of baking spice laced sourdough bread on the palate. Finishing exceedingly long, this is beautifully evolved wine that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 94


2019 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Rd.’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Worden Hill Rd.’ Chardonnay is a gorgeous bottling by Chris Mazepink. The nose takes on really good aromatic range from roasted pineapple to Macadamia nut and suggestions of roasted peanuts. The weight is gorgeous as is the exceedingly long finish. Really good to savor right now with its salty and nutty undertones this exceptional bottling will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 94


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Greg Morthol has crafted some beautiful new wines for Davis Bynum.

Davis Bynum

December 1, 2021

It was back in 1973 when Davis Bynum released a single vineyard Pinot Noir from the Rochioli Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Bynum was a pioneer in bringing attention to Burgundian varietals planted in this region. Since 2007, the winery remains in the hands of proprietor Tom Klein.

Winemaker Greg Morthole has crafted a really nice set of releases. He began working for Rodney Strong Vineyards in 2005, when he accepted a job as lab director. His then was named to associate winemaker in late 2007 and in the spring of 2010, Greg was promoted to Davis Bynum Winemaker. I loved the new 2020 Davis Bynum ‘Virginia’s Block - Jane’s Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 90) which is fresh but also very viscous from the oak treatment, delivering very bright orchard fruit flavors. Even better is the outstanding 2019 Davis Bynum ‘Dutton Ranches’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) which deftly reflects the terroir of the Russian River Valley with its saline and tilled soil tones. Learn more about this great winery at https://www.davisbynum.com and here are the excellent new wines by Davis Bynum.  


2020 Davis Bynum ‘Virginia’s Block - Jane’s Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- This new release comes from a vineyard set on gravelly clay loam soils, as this saw 9 months in a combination of Acacia wood, stainless steel and used French oak before bottling. The wine is wonderfully fresh and textured with bright gooseberry and green apple flavors. Enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2021-2025- 90


2018 Davis Bynum ‘River West’ Chardonnay- The ‘River West Vineyard’ is set on a low riverside bench in the northern portion of the Russian River Valley.  The palate marries nice toasty oak with creme brulee, buttered popcorn and Golden Delicious apple flavors. Straightforward and delicious, enjoy this rich yet well-structured Chardonnay over the next five plus years. Drink 2021-2026- 90


2018 Davis Bynum ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from a host of sites in the Russian River Valley, this Pinot Noir was aged for 13 moths in 22% new French and Hungarian oak before bottling. Cran-cola with cigar box, loamy soils, red cherry candy and pretty guava notes all mark the nose. The palate is soft and nicely textured with a smooth mouthfeel. Layers of pretty red fruits collide with freshly tilled soils on the palate. Drink 2021-2029- 91


2019 Davis Bynum ‘Dutton Ranches’ Pinot Noir-  The 2019 ‘Dutton Ranches’ Pinot Noir is an outstanding new bottling by winemaker Greg Morthole. Aged for 14 months in 50% new French oak this reveals ripe Yakima cherry and tobacco leaf flavors that meld with freshly tilled soils on the palate. The combination of weight, salinity and bright acidity is really good, as this fantastic new bottling will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

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Here we have the beautiful new 2018 releases by MacRostie.

MacRostie Vineyards

November 30, 2021

One of the beautiful Sonoma wineries, MacRostie was founded years ago by fellow Whitman College grad Steve MacRostie. Chatting with Steve in person a few years back, I was enchanted by his vision to craft terroir-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir many years before most people were following that model in Sonoma. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has an illustrious history in the wine industry having an undergraduate degree from the University of Colorado at Boulder. She has worked in the enology laboratory of Jackson Family Wines before working at Clos du Bois, Oyster Bay as well as Sonoma-Cutrer. She has crafted a beautiful set of new release wines.

MacRostie sources from some great vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Sangiacomo, Martinelli and Bacigalupi, and from Steve’s Wildcat Mountain Vineyard which Steve purchased decades back. I have always enjoyed wines from the ‘Wildcat Mountain Vineyard’ and this year’s rendition the 2018 MacRostie ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) shows off beautiful length and seriously good weight and finesse. Learn more about this great Sonoma winery at https://macrostiewinery.com/ Here are the great new wines by MacRostie.



2018 MacRostie ‘Wildcat Mountain’ Chardonnay- Utilizing a range of clones from 95, 76 and I5, this spent ten months in 24% new French oak before bottling. The resultant wine is a full-bodied, beautifully textured Chardonnay that shows Macadamia nut flavors alongside lemon rind and vanilla cream tones on the palate. With glorious length, this outstanding botting has another eight to ten years to go in the cellar.  Drink 2021-2029- 93


2018 Macrostie ‘Thale’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Thale’s Vineyard’ is located in the northern part of the Russian River Valley, as this 14 acre property is named after proprietor Steve MacRostie’s wife. Cola and orange rind flavors play well with tilled soils and salty undercurrent on the palate. Medium-bodied, with gobs of finesse, this beautiful wine will be sure to provide drinking enjoyment over the nest ten years. Drink 2021-2031- 92

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Here we have the gorgeous new 2019 Aubert ‘Sugar Shack’ Chardonnay.

Aubert

November 24, 2021

A family affair, Mark Aubert was born and raised in St. Helena are returned to the Napa Valley following his university graduation. For years he was making wine for others and he and his wife, Teresa, finally founded Aubert Wines in the late 1990s, focusing on cooler climate single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Teresa has a strong finance and marketing background, and manages the business side of Aubert, which includes managing the Aubert wine allocations.  Mark and Teresa are proud parents of their daughter, Lauren Aubert. 

They have their home at their estate ‘Sugar Shack Vineyard’ which is a 7 acre property in the Rutherford District of the Napa Valley. I was blown away with the new release wines that both come from the 2019 vintage. I was massively impressed with the 2019 Aubert ‘UV’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) which is dense and intense without being overly heavy. This manages the salty side of the Sonoma Coast brilliantly with plenty of bright red fruits and acidity deftly holding everything together. Learn more about this famed estate at aubertwines.com and here is my review of the gorgeous new Aubert wines. 


2019 Aubert ‘Sugar Shack Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Heady, rich and with a finish that won’t stop, the 2019 Aubert ‘Sugar Shack Vineyard’ Chardonnay is a dense effort that is not for the weary. The insanely good viscosity here really drives this downright unctuous bottling, with plenty of bright acidity to back up the core of citrus fruits that meld with butterscotch and baking spice laced brioche tones on the palate. This has at least another ten years in front of it. Drink 2021-2033- 95


2019 Aubert ‘UV’ Pinot Noir- Brilliantly salty and terroir-driven, the 2019 Aubert ‘UV’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous effort by Mark Aubert. Voluptuously textured, and showing outstanding length, this brings serious flavor range from blood orange zest and salty wet stone to pomegranate seed, and freshly tilled soils on the palate. Exceedingly good right now with its combination of weight and finesse, this gorgeous bottling will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2035- 96

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Here we have the utterly fabulous 2018 Vina Don Melchior Cabernet Sauvignon.

Vina Don Melchor

November 24, 2021

One of the outstanding wines of Chile, Don Melchior is named after famed winemaker Don Melchior Concha y Toro who was the first to plant Bordeaux varietals back in 1883. This now marks the 31st vintage of this famed wine. Winemaking is now done as an annual collaboration between winemaker Enrique Tirado and expert blender Eric Boissenot designed to find their finest expression of the Puente Alto region. “We call our approach the ‘Beauty of the Composition’ to capture the artistry that defines each vintage,” said Tirado, winemaker and general manager of Viña Don Melchor. “When we start working on the blend, we have not one expression but hundreds of micro-vinifications to consider that collectively represent the distinct flavors, aromas, textures and color variations of our terroir. Creating the final assemblage of Don Melchor is like painting in many colors and tones to illustrate the beauty of this extraordinary vineyard.”

I was blown away with the 2018 Don Melchior Cabenet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which has sensational herbal undertones, making this is a very Bordelaise new world wine, almost reminiscent of a top left bank wine from 2009. Learn more about this inspired wine at https://donmelchor.com/ and here is my review of the he beautiful new 2018 Don Melchior Cabernet Sauvignon.


2018 Viña Don Melchior Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Puente Alto Vineyard, this shockingly good Cabernet Sauvignon was first made back in 1987. The nose is totally captivating with green bell pepper alongside loamy soils, black currants and cigar box tones that all come together in the glass. The palate is seamless throughout the drinking experience. Layers of chocolate covered dark currants alongside coffee grounds, tobacco leaf and blackberry compote all meld brilliantly together on the palate. Glorious with its viscosity and length, this gorgeous new wine will cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2038- 96

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Here we have the beautiful range of Lachini wines.

Lachini Vineyards

November 23, 2021

One Oregon house that you may have never tasted, Lachini Vineyards were founded all the way back in 2001 by Ron and Marianne Lachini. Located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA Lachini produces a wide range of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that show wonderful terroir and poise. Ron Lachini is one of the great personalities in Oregon wine. A down to earth guy, he is passionate about producing great Pinot Noir from his vineyard. Lachini has tasting rooms in both Oregon and Woodinville. 

Mattieu Gille heads winemaking at Lachini. Gille was born in Burgundy's Nuits St Georges, where his family has been making wine at their estate since the 16th century. Stating in 2014 he joined Lachini and needless to say, he has an excellent handle on PInot Noir and Chardonnay. An outstanding value Pinot Noir, the 2018 Lachini ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) is beautifully textured and shows beautiful weight and range. I adored the stunning 2018 Lachini Vineyards ‘Prima’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is one of the best wines that I have tasted from this estate. This is one for any serious collector of Oregon Pinot Noir. Learn more about this great Oregon winery at https://www.lachinivineyards.com Here are the great new release wines by Lachini Vineyards. 


2019 Lachini ‘Les Sols Arenaces Estate’ Chardonnay- A blend of Dijon clonal selection 44, 76 & 95, this Chardonnay delivers plenty of ripe pear and melon tones on the palate with minerals and a soft mouthfeel. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven years. Drink 2021-2028- 91


2019 Lachini  ‘Al di La’ Chardonnay-  The fresh and vibrant ‘Al di La’ delivers suggestions of mango and baking spice dusted pear on the palate with lovely salty undertones. Enjoy over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2012-2029- 92


2019 Lachini Vineyards ’S’ Pinot Noir-  The ’S’ stands for ‘La Sorella della Famiglia’ which is mostly Pommard and Dijon clonal selection Pinot Noir. The wine is a polished and soft effort upon entry with bright red fruits that nicely compliment the shades of peat moss and Shitakke mushroom flavors. Enjoy this outstanding and lithe bottling over the next decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2019 Lachini ‘Cuvee Giselle’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding ‘Cuvee Giselle’ is a limited production, 98 case bottling of Chehalem Mountain Pinot Noir. The wine shows off its silky texture with wonderful depth and concentration considering the challenges faced at harvest. Pretty guava puree, orange zest, cran-cherry and tobacco leaf with salty undertones all play well on the palate. Fantastic even at the two year mark, this will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 93


2019 Lachini ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir-  The 2019 ‘Family Estate’ Pinot Noir is a fantastic bottling my proprietor Ron Lachini. Clonal selections for this wine include Pommard, Wädenswil, Dijon 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 and a 'suitcase clone' (L.T.) The signature silky texture here really entices, as this takes you on a wonderful range of flavors from bright red fruits to silty soils, wet stone and red rose water tones. Downright sexy and enticing to consume now, this fantastic bottling has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2036-  94


2019 Lachini  ‘La Cruz Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘La Cruz Vineyard’ is a famed site in the Sonoma Coast AVA, as Ron Lachini has been sourcing from this site now for several years. This saw 15% whole cluster fermentation and then was stored in a  touch more new French oak than their Oregon Pinot Noir bottlings. Salty undercurrents combine with bight red fruits and menthol tones on the nose. The palate is silky smooth and plush with a soft mouthfeel, offering a very polished sense of place. Finishing long, this will be a gratifying wine to savor for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2018 Lachini ‘Prima’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Prima’ is an utterly captivating new Pinot Noir by Lachni. A blend of equal parts Dijon clone 115, Dijon clone 116, Pommard clone and Waidenswil clonal selections, this delivers an incredible mouthfeel, with beautiful depth and concentration. Rich layers of pomegranate seed and cranberry mingle well with shades of wild blackberry, wet rock, peat moss and a seamless texture. This is extremely good even to consume now at the three year mark, as the fantastic 2018 ‘Prima’ will be a 20 year wine. Drink 2021-2039- 95


2018 Lachini ‘La Contrada’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘La Contrada’ blends 75% Cabernet Sauvignon (Quintessence Vineyard) with 25% Merlot (Red Willow Vineyard). The beautiful presence of oak waps around shades of chocolate, wild blackberry compote, and coffee ground flavors with scorched earthy undertones on the palate. With good depth, concentration and poise, this beautiful effort will cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 93


2018 Lachini ‘La Bestia’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Quintessence Vineyard, this has 17% Cabernet Franc blended in. Outstanding in its youth, the 2018 ‘La Bestia’ delivers an intense core of baking spices, black currants, freshly tilled loamy soils and shades of creosote on the palate. Full-bodied and showing serious finesse, this beautiful effort will cellar well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2038- 93


2019 Lachini ‘Cuoro D’ Oro’ Muscat Canelli Dessert Wine- Fresh and fragrant, this delivers more finesse than unctuous, ripe fruit with honeysuckle water, banana and shades of ripe sweetened honeydew melon on the palate. Really well-done, enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2021-2027- 91


MV Lachini Seven Year Pinot Noir Port Style. Wine- Utilized from solera system barrels from the 2009, 2010 & 2012 vintages, the MV Lachini Seven Year Port Style Wine is an utterly stellar bottling. Immediately gratifying, this delivers wet stone, macerated cherry, ripe red raspberry and orange rind flavors alongside a wonderful degree of tension. Quite frankly, this is gorgeous stuff that has has never been done like this in the Willamette Valley. What a wine!! Drink 2021-2033- 93

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Here we have the sensational 2019 ‘Old Sparky’ by Schrader.

Schrader Cellars

November 22, 2021

A Napa icon, Schrader Cellars was founded back in 1998 utilizing famed vineyard locations and the talents of Thomas Rivers Brown. The wines are crafted from some of the world’s most famous vineyards including Beckstoffer To Kalon, Las Piedras, and Georges III. These are seamless wines that carry Brown’s signature pillowy texture and weight without coming off overly heavy.

Brown has recently started his own winery with his wife and kids, Elusa. For years I have admired the Schrader ‘Old Sparky’ which is composed of fruit from the famed To Kalon Vineyard and is always made in 1.5L bottles. This current edition from 2019 is nothing short of perfection in the bottle. Pillowy and soft with magical length and a finish that doesn’t stop, this is a wine for any serious collector of Napa Valley Cabernet. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://schradercellars.com and here is my review of the 2019 Schrader ‘Old Sparky’ Cabernet Sauvignon. 


2019 Schrader Cellars ‘Old Sparky’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Dense and hedonistic without being heavy, the weightless. 2019 Schrader Cellars ‘Old Sparky’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a magnificent effort from this vintage. On the nose this evokes creosote and coffee ground tones that collide with creme de cassis and suggestions of Asian  spices. The palate is soft and seamless as this wine effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. This is very generous in its dense dark and blue fruit profile,  finishing extremely long with blackberry, black tea and copious minerals. Utterly sensational to savor now, this gratifying Cabernet Sauvignon will surely cellar well for another twenty years. Drink 2021-2041- 100

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Gilles Nicault crafts some incredible wines for Long Shadows.

Long Shadows 'Poet's Leap' Riesling Vertical Tasting

November 22, 2021

I am always amazed how time flies. Just less than six months ago I was sitting across from Giles Nicault, reveling in one of the most thrilling Riesling tastings I’ve ever participated in. Last week I had the chance to finish this absolutely epic vertical of ‘Poet’s Leap.’ Truly an iconic wine project, Long Shadows is the brainchild of former Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Allen Shoup who had the genius idea to have Washington wines made by utilizing some of the best winemaking talent across the globe. One of the best decisions he made was to hire Gilles Nicault from Woodward Canyon to be his head winemaker and oversee all winemaking production. Gilles has become one of the state’s great talents. Truly one of the great Riesling projects of the Pacific Northwest, the ‘Poet’s Leap’ project was initially a wine made by Armin Diel from Schlossgut Diel. Over time Gilles Nicault has taken over this project in crafting Riesling wines that show amazing acidity and good mid-palate ripeness. I have been amazed by these wines over the years and they are also wines that cellar really well, as last year I revisited the gorgeous 2011 ‘Poet’s Leap’ in Las Vegas which was dazzling and vibrant with gorgeous petrol undercurrents.

Sitting with Gilles we did have some surprises with how well some vintages were showing. I was shocked how fresh and vibrant the warm vintage 2015 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap ‘ Riesling (OB, 93) was, also displaying really nice depth and concentration. The best wine I tried was the unforgettable 2012 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling (OB, 95) which is amongst the best Riesling wines in North America that I have tried in the past several years. This combination of finesse and weight was simply magical. This was truly a tasting to remember. Learn more about these exciting wines at longshadows.com Here are my notes from vintages 2011-2020 of the Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling. 


2020 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap Riesling-  Sourced from The Benches, Gamache and Dionysus Vineyards, the nose is already beautifully. Evolved, as white flowers play well with petrol and green apple notes aromatically. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a silky texture. Just a kiss of residual sugar greets you ( roughly 1.oG/L), this reveals shades of cantaloupe with starfruit and stony minerals. This is already beautifully evolved, showing plenty of ripeness from the warmth of the vintage. Drink 2021-2027- 93


2019 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The outstanding 2019 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling is a stunning bottling. The petrol notes really impress here alongside shades of saffron, star jasmine and shades of  green melon. The freshness and finesse here is second to none, with a touch of sweetness (1.1G/L) caressing the pretty quince, Japanese pear, wet stone and loads of mouth-watering acidity. This is already beautifully evolved and will surely have another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2021-2031- 94


2018 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The gorgeous 2018 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling was sourced from the Benches, as well as the Phil Church and Dionysus Vineyards. With 1.2G/L,  this reveals a wonderful density with outstanding tension but displays gorgeous richness. Layers of ripe pineapple, stony minerals, and green papaya all come together brilliantly on the palate. Silky and elegant with great length, this outstanding wine is slowly starting to hit its stride. Drink 2021-2031- 94


2017 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling-The 2017 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling is a. Gorgeous showing from this outstanding vintage for white wines in Washington. With 1.05% residual sugar, this unveils white rose water with gooseberry, nectarine and stony minerals on the palate. Everything is right in balance here, as this finishes exceedingly long. The tension through the core of the wine makes this particularly a knockout example of Washington Riesling. Drink 2021-2031- 95


2016 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The 2016 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling is a. Gorgeous effort that is already beautifully evolved now at the five year mark. Ripe pear and starfruit tones mingle with roasted pineapple and stony undercurrents on the palate. This is already good to go and should be consumed over the next few years. Drink 2021-2025- 92


2015 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling-  The warm vintage 2015 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling is a dense and layered effort that is shining brightly now at the six year mark. Once on the nose this takes on a beautiful veil of tension that falls on orchard and citrus fruits. The mouthfeel and lovely finish accentuate this beautiful wines.Drink 2021-2028- 93


2014 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling-The 2014 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling is a gorgeous warm vintage effort by the talented Gilles Nicault. This shows serious density with melon, starfruit, ripe peach and petrol notes shining through. The beautiful length and richness add to the enjoyment as this is starting to show its age. Drink 2021-2028- 93


2013 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- Sourced mostly from The Benches Vineyard (43%), with the remainder from Phil Church and Dionysus Vineyard, this shows incredible tension and finesse from this warm vintage. This is quite frankly shockingly thoughtful with its bright minerality that cuts through the core of green apple, kumquat, wet stone and gasoline undercurrents. Wait for the exceedingly long finish. Drink 2021-2029- 94


2012 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- Fresh, vibrant and highly polished, the 2012 ‘Poet’s Leap’ is beautifully evolved and isn’t going anywhere for a long time. Extraordinarily fresh and vibrant with refined texture and juicy acidity, layers of Japanese pear, lemon rind, wet stone with shades of white grapefruit. This is gorgeous stuff to s savor right now as this has another decade of life in. Front of it! This is clearly up there with the best new world Riesling I have ever tasted. Drink 2021-2031- 95


2011 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The gorgeous 2011 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling is a gorgeous effort from this slightly cooler vintage. A touch more residual sugar (1.3G/L) this displays peach fuzz with bright pear and gobs of mouth-watering acidity all impress on the palate. With gorgeous finesse and lovely stony character this beautiful wine is also nowhere near done. Drink 2021-2028- 94

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Here are the fabulous new wines by Cuvaison.

Cuvaison

November 18, 2021

A few weeks back I had the chance to visit Cuvaison, one of the jewels of Carneros. The winery itself has sweeping views of the valley, as this is a truly gorgeous piece of the world. Wines have been made for a very long time by Steve Rogstad, who has a signature style of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that focuses on poise and texture. I have long admired these wines and fondly recall tasting some impressive early 2000s Chardonnay when I was in graduate school. It is hard to believe that this winery was first founded back in 1969. Then in1979 they acquired 400 acres of highly prized land north of San Pablo Bay in the Los Carneros district of Napa Valley which is a site that is highly influenced by fog and cooler temperatures from the bay.

The current release wines from Cuvaison were utterly fabulous. These wines have made my Top 100 list before for a good reason — they’re consistently great. I adored the new 2019 Cuvaison ‘ATS’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is dense and viscous with incredible weight and tension. This wine is best enjoyed at a warmer temperature for the full flavor range. Learn more about this outstanding producer at https://www.cuvaison.com and here are the killer top Chardonnay and Pinot Noir releases by Cuvaison.


2019 Cuvaison ‘ATS’ Chardonnay- The downright delicious 2019 ‘ATS’ is a barrel-selection wine sourced from Dijon Clone selection Chardonnay as well as Old Wente Clone Chardonnay and Clone 548. The wine shows sensational viscosity with a great veil of tension. Brioche, lemon zest, baking spice dusted pear and a seamless texture greets you, with an exceedingly long finish. Make sure to enjoy this at a warmer temperature as this is quite simply an exceptional wine by Steve Rogstad that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2036- 95


2019 Cuvaison ‘Adda’ Pinot Noir- A gogeous blend of Wadenswil 2A, 828 and Calera selection clone, the ‘Adda’ delivers a silky mouthfeel with downright delicious teaberry and cranberry fruit flavors that collide with orange rind and freshly tilled loamy, salty soils on the palate. Fresh and deep with a polished texture and salty undertones, enjoy this excellent effort over the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 94

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Here is the utterly magical 2009 Chateau. D’Yquem.

Chateau D'Yquem

November 17, 2021

I fondly recall one of my formative moments in my wine education — my first sip of the 1979 Chateau D’Yquem, poured by a former mentor of mine, Claude Faure. “This is different,” I thought to myself. While it takes a lot of time to typically appreciate the wines of Sauternes, I have found that the gravity of wines from this house appeal to pretty much every palate that try the wines.

I have been highly passionate about Sauternes for decades and started buying Sauternes when I was in graduate school fifteen years ago. While I might not possess a top shelf range of D’YQuem wines like some of my colleagues, I have a few that are best consumed for special occasions. The storied Sauternes estate was the only Sauternes property to be given the the Premier Cru Superior designation from the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. The world wine community recognizes this estate as producing the best wines from Sauternes. The site itself is perfectly situated for achieving a high degree of botrytis in even the most challenging of vintages. 

Earlier this year I opened one of my bottles of the absolutely epic 2005 Chateau D’YQuem which was seen by most critics as one of the top wines of the vintage. I did a 2005 vintage retrospective this past summer and found that wines from 2005 typically showed good levels of botrytis but also possessed a good sense of balance (http://www.washingtonwineblog.com/blog/2019/8/26/2005-sauternes-retrospective). I was absolutely blown away with the 2009 Chateau D’YQuem (WWB, 100) which is perfection in the bottle. My colleague and I simply stared at each other while sipping this majestic bottle. We didn’t need any words to describe how good this wine was. Learn more about the storied estate at http://yquem.fr/int-en/ Here is my review of the Sauternes wines from Chateau D’YQuem.


2009 Chateau D’Yquem Sauternes- Monumental, intense and irresistibly good, the 2009 Chateau D’Yquem is one of the great wines I have tasted out of thousands this year — and possibly the best wine I’ve tried. A mesmerizing honeyed hue, the wine starts out with more unctuous notes from the warm vintage. Honey, vanilla creme brûlée and pineapple upside-down cake, as well as brandy and Christmas spice soaked pear all come to mind aromatically. The palate is utterly seamless, with incredible viscosity and a fearless tension that races through the core of the wine. Obviously big, though fresh and lithe, this masterful effort has another twenty years to go in the cellar. Drink 2021-2041-100

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Here we have the sensational new 2018 Cabernet wines by Mirror Napa Valley.

Mirror Napa Valley

November 17, 2021

Today we share the story of a former Seattle Seahawk quarterback, now making some exquisite Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Rick Mirer was one of the most illustrious high school quarterbacks in Indiana state history, Mirer earned the Academy of Achievement Award as the top high school football player in the country in 1989, as well as the Atlanta Touchdown Club's Bobby Dodd Award as the nation's best high school quarterback. At Notre Dame, Mirer was just as good, winning three bowl games and accounting for more points running and throwing (350) than any other player in Notre Dame history. 

The Seattle Seahawks were a very poor team when they drafted Mirer in 1993. Still, Mirer finished his rookie season 5th in the AFC with 274 completions and 2833 yards and was AFC Rookie of the Year by United Press International. Mirer’s remaining seasons were not as successful in Seattle, being set behind an abysmal offensive line. Having gone to those games in the 1980s, all of us in the stands knew that Mirer was really not given a fair chance with such poor protection. Eventually traded to the Chicago Bears in 1997, Mirer continued to play as a backup quarterback until 2004. 

Close friends with Drew Bledsoe, and drafted right behind him in 1993, Mirer admits that his friendship with Bledsoe helped lead him to start Mirror Napa Valley. Bledsoe and Mirer even took off-season­ vacation with their wives to Napa Valley. During the off-season they would also try to stump each other with wines from Port or Brunello di Montalcino. It made sense that both quarterbacks would start their wineries post-football. 

While playing for the Raiders and 49ers Rick became even more passionate for wine, being so close to Napa Valley. Finally in 2008 Rick started Mirror Napa Valley, utilizing the winemaking talents of Kirk Venge, formerly of Mumm Napa Valley. Kirk serves as winemaker for several great Napa wineries including B Cellars, Bacio Divino Cellars, Beau Vigne, Entrepreneur Wines, and Hunnicutt Wines. These wines continue to improve. Check out the 2018 Mirror Cabernet ‘Oakville’ Sauvignon (OB, 93) which has great finesse and flavor density. Even better is the 2018 Mirror ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which shows beautiful stony undertones and massive viscosity. For more about Rick Mirer’s great winery go to https://www.mirrorwine.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Mirror Napa Valley.



2018 Mirror Napa Valley ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the 360 Vineyard, the Walther Vineyard and Cimarossa Vineyard, this polished Cabernet Sauvignon is already very nicely evolved. Rich Turkish coffee, dark currant and dark chocolate shaving tones combine with shades of freshly tilled soils, mocha and tar on the palate. The length and viscosity here is really outstanding as this fresh and generous effort has another fifteen years or more to go in the cellar. The terroir here is just outstanding. Drink 2021-2036-  93


2018 Mirror Napa Valley ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The beautiful 2018 Mirror Napa Valley ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon spent 29. Months in 70% new French oak Before bottling. The resultant wine a dense, well-structured, hedonistic monster that really needs some bottle age to tame.  Intense espresso grounds and loamy soils combine with stony undertones, graphite, tar and shades of boysenberry cobbler on  the palate. Try to delete this beautiful wine from your memory for a few more years, as this has the freshness and stuffing to age gracefully for two decades or more. Drink 2023-2043- 94

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