Lingua Franca Winery Sells to Constellation Brands

We have some massive news permeating out of the Willamette Valley today, as Lingua Franca, producer of some of Oregon's finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, has been sold to Constellation Brands. The winemaking team will remain the same, as the winery and land was included in the sale. Lingua Franca was originally founded by master sommelier Larry Stone who built the brand to an over 10K case production winery which is sold across the United States.
The sale was partly related to the smoke damage which was felt from the 2020 vintage where no Lingua Franca wine was made. Currently Lingua Franca produces roughly 12,000 cases each year. Huge congrats to Larry Stone on his sale.

Fe Wines

A Napa property that has terroir at heart, Fe (pronounced FEE) is the atomic symbol for iron, the mineral you will notice throughout the soils of their Spring Mountain Vineyard. It is quite remarkable that seven years of viticulture went into the first vintage of Fe Wines. This location sees a good amount of fog to moderate the summer heat. 

Aaron Pott, a fellow Arsenal supporter, achieved his undergraduate degree at University of California, Davis, and later a master’s degree in Viticulture, Wine, and Terroir from the Université de Bourgogne. He served as winemaker at famed property Château Troplong Mondot and also director of Château La Tour Figeac before coming to Napa. His namesake wines are also incredible.

Fe Wines have two wines in their collection — a near 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from their estate site on Spring Mountain. I am enamored with the richness and finesse in the inky colored 2019 Fe Wines Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which has easily another two decades in front of it. Learn more about these gorgeous wines at https://www.fewines.com and here are the fantastic new 2019 releases by Fe Wines. 

2019 Fe Wines Cabernet Sauvignon- The gorgeous and sinfully good 2019 Fe Wines Cabernet Sauvignon is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (84%) with 10% Cabernet Franc and 6% Malbec. Graphite and boysenberry cordial flavors mingle with tar and pipe tobacco tones on the palate. Utterly seamless, this deftly walks the tightrope between power and finesse. Finishing very long, this outstanding new Cabernet Sauvignon will surely live on for two more decades to come. Drink 2022-2042- 97

Trisaetum

James Frey is a man of many talents. A former photographer from Santa Cruz, James always had a passion for wine. A fellow Arsenal supporter, James crafts some incredible wines for Trisaetum that speak to the region and terroir. His winemaking style focuses towards a brightness and freshness in the wines, regardless of vintage. I have been highly impressed with these wines over the past several years. His talents spread far as James also makes some outstanding sparkling wines under his Pashey label and I reviewed his wines sourced from the Walla Walla Valley, his 1841 label.

The new Trisaetum lineup was brilliant across the board. Look for their 2020 Trisaetum ‘Estates Reserve’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which brilliantly navigated this vintage and shows really good richness andrange. Even better is the gorgeous 2019 Trisaetum ‘Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is one of the great wines that I have tasted from this vintage thus far. Just an infant, this has a really long way to go in the cellar. Learn more about this fantastic Willamette Valley winery at http://www.trisaetum.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Trisaetum. 

2020 Trisaetum ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay-Fresh and chalk-filed with finesse, the 2020 ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay reveals ripe pear with apricot and lemon zest tones alongside plenty of tension. While not showing a lengthy finish this is a downright tasty bottling that is meant for early consumption. Drink 2021-2025- 90

2020 Trisaetum ‘Estates Reserve’ Chardonnay- A barrel select wine sourced from two Trisaetum Estate Vineyards, this reveals medium-bodied Japanese pear, hazelnut and orange blossom tones alongside plenty of salty soil tones. Vibrant and delicious to consume now with its silky texture, enjoy this excellent effort over the next seven years. Drink 2021-2028- 92

2019 Trisaetum ‘Ribbon Ridge Estate’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from vines first planted back in 2007, this outstanding Pinot Noir shows off its deep core with very pretty guava and red currant tones alongside red florals that all meld in the glass. The palate is silky and elegant with medium-bodied crunchy red fruits that collide with minerals and peat moss undertones. Complex and delicious to savor right now, this outstanding effort will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2019 Trisaetum ‘Coast Range Estate’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Coast Range Estate’ is located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA and is set at 700 feet, with a combination of volcanic and marine sedimentary soils. The palate is very salty and savory with dried herbs alongside sour kirsch, linzer torte and blood orange zest with tobacco undercurrents. Very elegant and restrained, this beautiful wine is already nicely evolved and will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2019 Trisaetum ‘Wichmann Dundee’ Pinot Noir- Trisaetum’s founder James Frey planted this estate vineyard back in 1999, as this sits on 700 feet elevation and is set on ancient Jory soils. The nose is tangibly quite volcanic with ash tones alongside wild blackberry and teaberry with orange rind undertones. The palate is silky and elegant, although the mid-palate ripeness hasn’t fully come together yet. With a bit more bottle age things will fully amalgamate. Try to give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying now. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2019 Trisaetum ‘Estates Reserve’ Pinot Noir-Sourced from the Yamhill-Carlton, Ribbon Ridge, Dundee Hills AVAs, the 2019 ‘Estates Reserve’ is a barrel select wine that is utterly captivating to consume right now. Beautifully textured with superb length, this shows off a dazzling array of bright red fruits with forest floor and copious minerals on the palate. Wait for the near minute-long finish! Enjoy this superb effort over the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 94

2019 Trisaetum ‘Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir- A barrel-select wine, the 2019 ‘Family Reserve’ is a stunning new bottling by James Frey. Once on the mouth this becomes completely weightless as you can really get a feel for the marine sedimentary salty soils as well as the Jory soil notes. Shades of anise and wild blackberry combine with red rose water, red currant and hints of cran-orange on the palate. Complex and delicious to consume now, this has yet to fully hit its stride. Give this at least a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2022-2040- 95

Ridge Vineyards

More than a decade ago I was a member of Ridge Vineyards ATP wine club program. The program focuses on limited quantity, very geeky and generally restrained wines that are often made from unusual varietals. I still have some of these beautiful wines in my personal collection and am always impressed how well they show when I feel the urge to open a bottle. 

Back in January 2022 Ridge made some big waves when they hired Tres Goetting, the esteemed former winemaker at Robert Biale. For more than a decade I have admired these wines and how he has crafted an incredible range of Zins. Tres quite simply. has an incredible hand on Zinfandel and I am very excited to see how he evolves the program at Ridge. Tres will be working in collaboration with Head Winemaker & COO John Olney, Goetting will take over all winemaking duties at Ridge Vineyards' Monte Bello winery that first made Zinfandel back in 1962.

The new wines for their ATP program are incredible. I adored the 2019 Ridge Vineyards Syrah Grenache Mataro (OB, 94) which has massive aging potential and is remarkably juicy and complex. Having tried several older vintages of this wine, I have little doubt this beauty will cellar well for another ten to fifteen years. Another excellent new release is the stunning 2019 Ridge Vineyards ‘San Lorenzo’ Zinfandel (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with wonderful elegance and a deep core of dark fruits. Learn more about this famed estate at ridgevineyards.com and here are my reviews of the new ATP wines by Ridge Vineyards. 

2020 Ridge Vineyards ‘Halter Ranch’ Grenache Blanc- The 2020 ‘Halter Ranch’ Grenache Blanc has a high portion of Picpoul (20%) blended in. Sourced from this site in Paso Robles, and weighing in at only 12.9% alcohol, this unveils ripe cantaloupe with vanilla cream and minerals on the palate, with flinty undercurrents. This is gorgeous stuff for a hot summer day. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2019 Ridge Vineyards Syrah Grenache Mataro- This wine combines nearly all Syrah (86%) with small parts Grenache and Mataro that all come from the Lytton Estate Vineyard in the Dry Creek Valley. The nose is almost pure Sonoma Syrah with bacon fat, violets and a dusting of white pepper, with Earl Grey accents. The palate shows incredible poise and texture with medium-bodied red and dark fruits that combine with black licorice, tar and shades of creme de violette. The levels of mouth-watering acidity make this really difficult to put down. Complex and highly novel, if enjoying in its youth be sure to give this at least an hour in the decanter. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2020 Ridge Vineyard ‘Buchignani Ranch’ Carignane- Sourced from old vine Carignane vines that are over seventy five years of age, this novel bottling weighs in at only 13.6% alcohol. Bay leaf and red currant cordial mark the nose alongside tilled soils and smoky undercurrents. The palate shows a strong degree of astringency and acidity, with firm tannins holding in place a deep core of red fruits and menthol flavors. Enjoy this beautiful wine after a one to two hour decant. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2020 Ridge Vineyards ‘Blasi’ Zinfandel- Sourced from this vineyard in the Chalk Hill appellation of Sonoma County, this reveals bramble notes with bright Bing cherry, summer sausage and wintergreen tones on the nose. The texture imparted is insanely good as rich red fruit flavors collide with minerals, dusty soils and the seamless texture. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2019 Ridge Vineyards ‘San Lorenzo’ Zinfandel- The outstanding 2019 Ridge Vineyards ‘San Lorenzo’ Zinfandel is crafted from extremely old vines which were first planted in 1892. The wine is a unique blend of 65% Zinfandel, 26% Petite Syrah and the remainder Alicante Bouchet. The wine comes off very silky and elegant, with refined tannins that frame a rich core of boysenberry preserves, black currants, black licorice and pipe tobacco. Exceedingly good even to consume now at the three year mark, this surely has another fifteen years in front of it. If enjoying now be sure to give this an hour in the decanter. Drink 2022-2037- 94

2019 Ridge Vineyards ‘Boatman’ Zinfandel- The 2019 ‘Boatman’ Zinfandel is a sensational new effort that is nearly 100% varietal with just a splash of Petite Sirah added. Red plum, cigar ash and blood orange zest all mark the nose. The palate is silky and elegant, with refined tannins framing everything brilliantly. Ripe red and black fruits combine with bergamot, cardamom and tobacco leaf on the palate. This is utterly sensational, well-balanced Zinfandel that has both the stuffing and acidity to cellar for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2022-2037- 95

Frank Family Vineyards

It might be hard to believe that Frank Family Vineyards has been around for nearly 30 years. As the former President of Disney Studios, Rich Frank traveled extensively across the globe, trying the great wines of the world. Over time he knew that Napa Valley was the perfect setting to start a winery. Leslie Frank also had an incredibly successful career, spending more than 25 years covering news stories, and the last nine years of her TV news career reporting and anchoring at the number-one-rated station, KABC in Los Angeles. Rich and Leslie manage everything from vineyard purchases, to sales and marketing. 

Todd Graff hs been with Frank Family scene 2003 and has totally transformed their lineup over his tenure there. His wines are known for their soft mouthfeel, and refined tannins, making a killer range of wines from Chardonnay to Sangiovese and even Zinfandel.

I loved the new 2018 Frank Family ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which has outstanding finesse and texture. Even better is the gorgeous 2018 Frank Family ‘Patriarch’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) which is dense and layered with serious aging potential. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.frankfamilyvineyards.com/ Here are my tasting notes on the brilliant new wines by Frank Family Vineyards.

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay by Frank Family is another really good effort by the talented Todd Graff. Pear, brioche and baking spice dusted apple all fill the nose.The palate is silky and plush with a great sense of texture. The mineral undertones and the lengthy finish complete this wine that is right in balance and not overly heavy. Drink 2021-2031- 92

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard’ Chardonnay by Frank Family Vineyards is clicking all of the right boxes right now. Ripe pear, bananas foster and juicy melon flavors all combine with outstanding acidity and verve. This finishes exceedingly long with vanilla cream. The combination of weight and finesse here is really impressive as this beautiful new 2019 Chardonnay will be exceedingly long lived. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Frank Family ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir is forward and juicy with ripe red fruits, orange rind and cigar box tones. Medium bodied and full of tension, this beautiful wine is best enjoyed over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2021-2029- 91

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Zinfandel- Forward and delicious, the 2018 ‘Napa Valley’ Zinfandel reveals ripe plum, guava and red currant flavors with just a kiss of sweetness. Enjoy this beautiful new Zin over the next eight years. Drink 2021-2028- 91

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Lewis Vineyard’ Pinot Noir-  The 2019 ‘Lewis Reserve’ shows very pretty guava and red cherry aromas combine with shades of white truffle and orange rind on this beautiful bouquet. This top class Pinot Noir shows a rich viscosity with rich red fruits that collide with minerals, wet stone and kumquat flavors. This is drinking beautifully now and has many years to continue to evolve. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard’ is a beautifully textured wine that is drinking great even now at the two year mark. Cran-cherry and cola flavors, as well as kumquat rind collide with minerals and smoky undertones on the palate. Drink 2021-2035- 93

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Zinfandel- The 2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Zinfandel is a stunning new release that has poise and richness to age for more than a decade. Intense and loaded with bright red fruits and orange zest flavors, alongside a bright veil of tension, this is beautiful Zinfandel that will evolve gracefully in your cellar. Drink 2021-2033- 93

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 “Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is loaded with rich dark fruits on the nose with chocolate and graphite undertones. The palate is fresh and full-bodied with a great veil of tension. Layers of mocha, tar and anise combine with a great core of dark fruits on the palate. Drink 2021-2033- 92

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Rutherford Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Rutherford Reserve’ is highly elegant and refined with firm tannins that hold in a great core of huckleberry, smoke, black raspberry cordial and tar tones with menthol undertones. Full-bodied and rich with a great acid backbone this has another twenty years left. Drink 2021-2038- 94

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon is deeply concentrated with velvety tannins that line the core of loamy soils, pipe tobacco, black cherry pie and mocha tones. Full-bodied and delicious now, this will surely provide drinking enjoyment fort another fifteen plus years. Drink 2021-2036- 94

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Winston Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The sinfully good 2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Winston Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a splash of Petit Verdot. Tobacco leaf and sandy loam tones combine with shades of black currant jelly, Turkish coffee and exotic spices all impress on the palate. The wine shows beautiful length even so young, as this will deliver drinking enjoyment for many decades to come. Drink 2022-2045- 96

2018 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Patriarch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A sensational new bottling, the 2018 Frank Family vineyards ‘Patriarch’ spent 21 months in 75% new French oak barrels before bottling. Once on the mouth, this shows off its silky texture, making this glide across the drinking experience. While obviously quite a big wine, this has good balance in terms of intense fruit and non-fruit flavors, with generous oak and firm tannins holding everything together beautifully. Anise, creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and sandalwood tones all sing in unison on the palate. Gorgeous now to enjoy in its powerful youth, this has at least another twenty years in front of it. Drink 2023-2045- 97

Stoller

One of the outstanding producers in the Willamette Valley, Stoller dates back to 1993 when Bill Stoller acquired a family property from his cousin. Immediately Stoller saw potential to grow world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Two years after the acquisition he planted 10 acres each of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and fast forward to today the vineyard is now the largest contiguous vineyard in Oregon's Dundee Hills. The property spans 400 acres, with 225 acres focused on growing vines at elevations ranging from 220 to 640 feet. Ten varietals are planted in this vineyard, including Viognier, Pinot Meunier and even Aligote. 

Winemaker Melissa Burr has been at Stoller for more than fifteen years, having helped grow production from 1,000 cases to 60,000. Burr crafted some outstanding wines across the board. I love the new 2021 Stoller Rose (OB, 91) which is polished with serious nuance and a beautiful sense of texture. and vibrant with good astringency. I adored the 2019 Stoller ‘Helen’s’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which has some brilliant cellaring potential with its sense of texture and finesse. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at https://www.stollerfamilyestate.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Stoller. 

2021 Stoller Rose- Made from estate Pinot Noir grapes, this weighs in at only 12.5% alcohol. Once on the nose this takes on layers of delicate red fruits that mingle with stony and earthy undercurrents. The palate is very fresh and vibrant with bright acidity and a soft texture. Shades of wild strawberry and Rainier cherry collide with copious minerals on the palate. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2020 Stoller ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- The 2020 Stoller ‘Estate’ Chardonnay saw twelvemonths in concrete cubes before being transferred to stainless steel tanks before bottling. The wine shows good finesse on the palate, with lemon curd, toasty oak and shades of Japanese pear flavors. With a lingering finish, enjoy this excellent new Chardonnay over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 91

2019 Stoller ‘Helen’s ’ Pinot Noir- Named after Bill Stoller’s aunt, the 2019 ‘Nancy’s’ is primarily Wadenswil clonal selection Pinot Noir which was aged in 18% new French oak prior to bottling in March 2021. Needing an hour in the decanter to be fully awoken, once aroused this takes the lead with beautiful red florals and red cherry with peat moss aromatics that all meld in the glass. The palate is soft and approachable with silky tannins that line a core of bright pomegranate seed and Yakima cherry flavors that collide with blood orange zest and pine needle accents. Highly enjoyable now, this has at least another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2019 Stoller ‘Nancy’s’ Pinot Noir- Given slightly more new oak (27%) than the ‘Helen’s,’ the really good 2019 ‘Nancy’s’ Pinot Noir also underwent 35% whole cluster fermentation and is primarily Pommard clonal selection.  Showing much more of a darker fruit profile than the 2019 ‘Helen’s,’ this unveils black raspberry and black cherry flavors with roasted dates and baking spices. Finishing long, this is glorious wine to consume now following an hour in the decanter. Drink 2022-2035- 93

Colene Clemens

In his youth Joe Stark had ambitions of someday owning his own business. He worked in his father's small cabinet shop and learned about business from his father. In 2005 his wife Vicki and he were able to fulfill his dream by founding Colene Clemens, named after Vicki’s mother. Colene Clemens was created right in their own backyard, as their property had the correct aspect (south facing), elevations (350ft to 650 ft) and an array of high quality, proven Pinot Noir soils to start their winery.

Winemaker Steve Goff is originally from Philadelphia and moved to San Francisco. Steve became fascinated with winemaking, eventually graduating from the Enology and Viticulture program at Fresno State University and he worked his way to the position of Assistant Winemaker at Beaux Frères. After working six vintages at Beaux Frères, he joined Joe and Vicki Stark in 2008 as the Winemaker and Vineyard Manager for Colene Clemens. Steve’s new wines from the 2019 vintage are really outstanding across the board. I love the new 2019 Colene Clemens Chehalem Mountains Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is fresh and viscous with seriously good texture. Even better is the fantastic 2019 Colene Clemens ‘Max’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is burly considering some of the challenges at harvest. This is downright awesome stuff to savor right now, as it has both the acidity and weight to cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Learn more about these outstanding wines at coleneclemens.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Colene Clemens and winemaker Steve Goff. 

2019 Colene Clemens Chehalem Mountains Chardonnay- The 2019 Colene Clemens Chehalem Mountains Chardonnay is a joy to consume right now in its youth. Toasty oak with buttered popcorn and wet stone all combine on the palate. The soft texture and length add to the enjoyment. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Margo’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2019 Colene Clemens ‘Margo’ Pinot Noir shows rich cherry cola with ash and pomegranate seed tones aromatically. The plate shows good verve and viscosity, finishing long with rich red and dark fruits with smoldering stones. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Victoria’ Pinot Noir-The 2019 ‘Victoria’ is a gorgeous effort that is already nicely evolved. Sour cherry and black raspberry combine with salty soils aromatically. The freshness and finesse is outstanding as this is ripe and juicy, red fruit-driven wine that is best enjoyed over the next decade. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Adriane’ Pinot Noir-The really tasty 2019 Colene Clemens ‘Adriane’ Pinot Noir reveals more depth and than the ‘Margo’ with pomegranate seed and iron accents that mingle well with minerals and shades of orange zest with salty tilled soils. The combination of mouthfeel and finesse really works here. Quite primary now, enjoy this deeply concentrated 2019 Pinot Noir over the next twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2019 Colene Clemens ‘Max’ Pinot Noir- The best wine out of the new Colene Clemens lineup, the ‘Max’ is named after Colene's great grandson. Immediately gratifying the 2019 ‘Max’ Pinot Noir unveils cherry cola and sassafras accents aromatically. The palate comes off very fresh and refined with firm tannins that line a rich core of red and dark fruits with shades of cinnamon, clove and mandarin orange rind. Finishing long, this gorgeous effort will provide drinking enjoyment for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Buty White Wine Vertical Tasting

For years I have admired the red and white wines of Buty, a Walla Walla winery founded in 2000 by Nina Buty and Caleb Foster. For more than two decades Buty produced some outstanding wines and I was saddened to hear about the closing in January 2022. The winery began in 2000 and then in 2006 they purchased a former apple farm in the Rocks District, which they named their Rockgarden Estate Vineyard. In 2012 Caleb left Buty to pursue other ventures, handing winemaking over to Chris Dowsett, who made some excellent wines there until Buty’s recent closing.

Sitting down with former winemaker Caleb Foster, we both were in utter disbelief of how many of the older wines in the tasting held so well. For years Caleb has made wines from the Conner Lee Vineyard and after Buty he made some brilliant wines from that vineyard. Many of the Chardonnays we tasted were from that vineyard and I was impressed at the level of acidity that stayed intact in the wines. That “bright acidity” as Caleb mentioned rang true in the tasting but we also were impressed with the quality of the corks as “We spent a lot of time and money on corks back then” he explained. “Long before DIAM we invested in top quality corks” he noted as only one wine of the tasting had cork influence.

In terms of the most interesting wine of the tasting, that award had to go to the 2001 Buty ‘Roza Berge Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is from a now defunct vineyard (currently a wheat field). The wine was amazing in terms of flavor range and still has some acidity holding things together. We tried the gorgeous 2009 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) out of a magnum and the wine was incredibly vibrant despite being more than a decade old. “Washington white wine can age if they’re made in the right way” Caleb explained. I couldn’t agree more. Here are my notes from an extraordinary vertical tasting of Buty white wines. 

2001 Buty ‘Roza Berge Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from a vineyard that is now defunct and is now a wheat field, the ‘Roza Berge Vineyard’ is off the 240 highway that goes from Prosser to Mattawah, this is from a north-facing slope in the Yakima Valley. A golden hue, this reveals surprisingly good freshness with baked apple and pear, as well as cloves. Soft and very silky on the mouth, this is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2022-2025- 92

2005 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This shows 14% alcohol on the label and comes off very fresh with starfruit, baking spices and French bread notes aromatically. The plate shows bright acidity and a soft texture. Beautifully evolved, this revels in its honeydew melon and baked apple flavors with shades of vanilla cream. Finishing long, this is outstanding wine to consume now. Drink 2022-2026- 92

2006 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this warm vintage, like the 2005 bottling, this had roughly 10% new French oak prior to bottling. The palate is deep, concentrated and shows serious weight, with light salty undertones. Bright pear and roasted pineapple combine with baking spice dusted Challah bread. Unabashedly big, this shows more nutty and earthy nuances with more air. Drink this beauty now. Drink 2022-2025- 93

2006 Beast ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This shows bubbles in the glass, as this was entirely aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. This is extremely fresh and vibrant with a good degree of effervescence. Light pear and starfruit flavors mingle well with salty tones on the palate. Consume this over the next few years. Drink 2022-2024- 90

2007 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2007 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay comes from this vintage that saw a hot spring and June, and ideal conditions following. Nutty and earthy tones combine with shades of cinnamon and allspice on the nose. The palate shows a beautiful texture with walnut, baked Japanese pear and Challah bread notes. Drink now. Drink 2022-2025- 91

2008 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay-2008 saw near ideal conditions, as this Connor Lee Vineyard Chardonnay revealed bright acidity with light white flowers alongside cashew nut, sweetened gooseberry and Pink Lady apple notes. Forward and delicious, it is best to drink now. Drink 2022-2025- 91

2009 Buty ‘Conner Lee Vineyard’ Chardonnay (1.5L)- 2009 also saw near ideal growing conditions, as this was an even growing seasons. Hazelnut and brioche notes fill the nose with ripe melon tones. The palate is utterly sensational with a lush texture and serious acid backbone. Bananas foster and vanilla cream notes combine with Pink Lady apple and nutty undertones. Texturally gorgeous, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 93

2011 Beast ‘Spring Creek Vineyard’ Semillon- This is sourced from a Yakima Valley that is now defunct. Bright pear and apple notes combine with stony understand not he nose. The palate is very fresh and vibrant with a soft texture and nutty undertones. Enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2022-2026- 90

Granville Wine Company

One of the outstanding newer Oregon producers of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Granville Wine Company has its roots deeply rooted in Oregon viticulture. Jackson and Ayala Holstein founded their winery paying homage to Jackson’s father who was a viticulturist. As a child Jackson spent time pruning vines and washing bins and didn’t fall in love with Oregon wine until college when he and his wife found their calling. They began making wine as a hobby and also worked at wineries and traveled to international wine growing regions. 

Wines from this vineyard are big and bold with great flavor density and sterling tension. I love the new 2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Spirit Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which has plenty of nerve and a soft texture.  Even better is the sinfully good  Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which has remarkable flavor density from this vintage and surely will cellar well fora another fifteen plus years. Learn more about these great new wines at http://www.granvillewines.com Here are the new wine releases by Granville Wine Company.

2017 Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine- Sourced from the acclaimed ‘Holstein Vineyard’ this was disgorged in September 2021 as this was made in the Brut Nature style. Fresh and nervy with plenty of finesse, this unveils green apple and kumquat tones alongside a silky mousse and good ripeness. Enjoy this beautiful new bottling over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Spirit Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this Eola-Amity Hills vineyard this stunning new bottling reveals bright lemon zest and kumquat tones alongside honeydew melon and gobs of minerals on the palate. Rich and dense, with brioche undertones, and a lengthy finish, enjoy this outstanding new bottling over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Koosah Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Located in the Eola-Amity Hills, the ‘Koosah Vineyard’ is located on a windswept crest at 700-1100′. The steeply-sloped, very rocky, 82.5-acre location has 44 acres planted.  The Chardonnay comes off very polished and rich with lemon blossom and orange rind flavors alongside salted Macadamia nut flavors and nothing short of a world-class, minute-long finish. What a stunning wine by Jackson Holstein that will surely survive for another ten plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Eichler Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- A limited production Pinot Noir at 100 cases, the 2019 ‘Eichler Vineyard’ shows immediate appeal with stunning aromatic range from volcanic soils to red rose petals, orange rind and suggestions of wild mushroom. The palate is dense, full-bodied and downright voluptuous despite the challenges of the vintage. Rich red currants march on with blood orange zest, menthol and stony undertones. Complex and highly delicious to savor now, this will have a long life in front of it. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- For years the Holsteins had sold their fruit from this outstanding vineyard to Argyle, as I long admired these wines dating back to the stunning 2005 ‘Cowhouse’ bottling. The 2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Holstein Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is an impressive follow up to the unabashedly bold 2018 bottling. Seamlessly textured, this unveils ripe red cherry and cranberry flavors alongside copious minerals and freshly tilled soils, with black truffle crudo undertones on the palate. Seriously good to savor now, this will have another fifteen years to go in the cellar. Drink 2022-2036- 94

2019 Granville Wine Company ‘Louis’ Pinot Noir- Utilizing clonal selections 115, Holstein, 777, 667, the 2019 ‘Louis’ spent 11 months in barrel and underwent 25% whole cluster fermentation. On the nose this takes on beautiful potpourri tones alongside orange rind and tobacco leaf. The palate is dense and viscous with serious viscosity and tension that frame a deep core of red fruits and citrus ember tones. This gorgeous bottling will surely cellar well for another decade or more to come. Drink 2022-2036-  94

Boedecker Cellars

An urban Oregon winery, Boedecker dates back to 2003 with its founding by Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker. Stewart began making wine in 1992 while at Cornell University. In Oregon, he later volunteered in exchange for knowledge at several well-established Oregon wineries, enrolled in wine-making classes at UC Davis and Chemeketa CC and eventually founded Boedecker Cellars with Athena in 2003. Athena is a native Portlander who also studied wine-making at UC Davis and Chemeketa CC.

The new wines that I tasted came from the 2017 vintage which was a touch cooler than 2015, 2016 and 2018. The wines all showed good finesse. I loved the 2017 Boedecker ‘Stewart’ Pinot Noir (OB, 91) which was sourced from a host of outstanding vineyards in the Willamette Valley. Learn more about this great winery at boedeckercellars.com and here are my reviews of the new Boedecker wines. 

2017 Boedecker Cellars ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The  2017 Boedecker Cellars ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir shows off a soft mouthfeel with straightforward red cherry, red raspberry and damp earthy tones on the palate. Forward and juicy, enjoy in the short-term. Drink 2022-2028- 90

2017 Boedecker Cellars ‘Stewart’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Cherry Hill, Finnigan Hill, Hirschy, Shea and Stoller Vineyards, this 2017 Pinot Noir underwent 40% whole cluster fermentation. Red raspberry and pomegranate seed flavors mingle well with a soft mouthfeel and good sense of verve, with salty undertones. Enjoy this beautiful new Pinot Noir over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 91

Ridge Vineyards

One of the most electrifying California producers of Zinfandel, Ridge Vineyards is one of the great vineyards to visit, perched high in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This site is a boasts sweeping views that span across Silicon Valley. Ridge also has a great location in the Sonoma Valley to taste amongst the vineyards there. Founded by Paul Draper in the 1960s, their estate winery is set at 2,300 feet. Over the years the winery has received considerable prestige for their wines in historical terms, as Ridge Vineyard's 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon achieved international fame for its fifth-place finish in the 1976 “Judgement of Paris” wine tasting.

I love the new Ridge wines which are simply stunning across the board. Do not miss out on the sensational 2020 Ridge ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is fresh, vibrant and shows sensational flavor density, improving after several hours of air. Look for their 2020 Ridge ‘Geyserville’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which deftly captures the art of blending and comes off velvety and soft, with some great cellaring potential. Learn more about this historic winery at ridgewine.com Here are the amazing new release wines from Ridge Vineyards.

2020 Ridge ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- The 2020 ‘Estate’ Chardonnay by Ridge was entirely sourced form the Monte Bello Estate Vineyard and definitely improves in terms of flavor density and flavor range after two hours of air. This Chardonnay exudes class with great aromatic range from buttered popcorn and ripe banana tones alongside Challah bread and suggestions of nectarine rind. The palate is very elegant and shows a Burgundian sense of finesse, with lovely salty undertones and a ripe core of melon and citrus fruits. Finishing very long, this outstanding new Chardonnay will be sure to cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 94

2020 Ridge ‘Geyserville’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Geyserville’ blends mostly Zinfandel (69%) with the remainder Carignane and Petite Sirah, with a splash of Alicante Boushet and Mataro added. Needing an hour in the decanter to be fully expressive, the nose comes off very pretty with red roses and ripe raspberry with bramble undercurrents and shades of black plum that all dazzle in the glass. Silky tannins frame a core of bright red fruits with baking spices bergamot and suggestions of persimmon. Finishing long, this a truly outstanding effort that is already showing beautifully and will be sure to satisfy over the next ten to twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2020 Ridge ‘East Bench’ Zinfandel- This 100% varietal bottling came from an exceedingly small crop and was harvested the first week of September. The nose is very appealing with its blood orange zest and wild strawberry tones alongside shades of wintergreen. The palate is very soft and approachable with bright acidity and red raspberry, pomegranate seed and sour red cherry flavors alongside this brilliant vein of tension. Just an infant now, this medium-bodied, well-structured Zin will surely cellar well for another ten years or more. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2020 Ridge ‘Paso Robles Dusi Ranch’ Zinfandel- Originally farmed by Benito Dusi, today Mike Dusi farms this old vine site that is well-known for high quality Zinfandel. This wine gets even better following a one hour decant. Bramble and red raspberry cordial mark the nose alongside suggestions of bay leaf and cherry tomato. The palate is fresh and energetic with a seamless texture and wonderful length. The concentration and finesse here is lovely. A complete wine, this is already beautifully evolved and will surely cellar well over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 Ridge ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Entirely sourced from the famed Monte Bello Vineyard, the 2019 Ridge ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding value from this vintage that saw near ideal growing conditions. Graphite and wild blackberry compote mark the nose alongside shades of dark chocolate shavings and pipe tobacco. The palate is very fresh and refined with a soft mouthfeel and soft tannins. Ripe dark currants parade with espresso bean, and shades of chocolate cake on the palate. This is seriously good stuff to enjoy young but the 2019 ‘Estate’ has both the structure and stuffing to go fo another fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2037- 93 

Elk Cove

More than ten years ago I was at a restaurant in Maui and ordered a bottle of Elk Cove Pinot Gris. This seemed like the perfect occasion for a refreshing wine and I fondly recall how satisfying the wine was with our seafood fare. For years I have enjoyed visiting this beautiful winery location perched high on a hill, with sweeping views of the Willamette Valley. An Oregon wine brand that has been synonymous with consistency, Elk Cove is a five generation family owned and run winery. Back in 1974 Elk Cove was founded after the Campbell family came across an overgrown homestead in the foothills of the Coast Range Mountains.

The five Campbell children helped work in the vineyards at Elk Cove as a family affair.  Adam Campbell took a special interest and stayed close to home for college, attending Lewis & Clark and spending summers on the bottling line. Upon graduation he joined the business year-round to learn the craft of winemaking from his parents. Adam is now responsible for making Elk Cove’s wines. He now oversees six vineyard sites with 380 planted acres. I loved the new wines across the board. The 2021 Elk Cove Pinot Blanc (OB, 92) is fresh and beautifully textured stuff that would pair with a literal cornucopia of foods. Do not miss the 2017 Elk Cove ‘La Boheme’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is deep and concentrated with beautiful red florals. Learn more about these outstanding wines at elkcove.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Elk Cove.

2017 Elk Cove ‘Mount Richmond Brut’ Sparkling Wine- The really good 2017 Elk Cove ‘Mount Richmond Brut’ Sparkling Wine is a blend of mainly Pinot Noir (66%) with the remainder Chardonnay that saw three years in neutral oak prior to disgorgement. Ripe Japanese pear and cantaloupe, with salty undertones combine with a soft mousse and beautiful length on the palate. Really nice to enjoy now, this has some good aging potential based on both the weight and acidity. Drink 2022-2029- 91

2021 Elk Cove Pinot Blanc- The 2021 Elk Cove Pinot Blanc was sourced from vines aged up to 28 years as this was whole-cluster pressed and then aged in stainless steel tanks prior to bottling. Kiwi and starfruit tones collide with minerals and stony undertones on this downright delicious flavor profile. Nicely textured, this beautiful effort is best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2021 Elk Cove Pinot Gris- The bright and well-balanced 2021 Pinot Gris by Elk Cove was sourced from their estate hillside vineyards, with some vines that date back to 1985. Aged in stainless steel, this unveils a soft mouthfeel with white grapefruit and honeydew melon flavors alongside shades of toasty brioche on the palate. Enjoy over the next few years while this beautiful freshness remains intact. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2019 Elk Cove ‘Five Mountain’ Pinot Noir- The delicious 2019 ‘Five Mountain’ Pinot Noir spent ten months in 20% new French oak prior to bottling, as this scenic vineyard was purchased by Elk Cove back in 2005 and has views of five volcanos in the Cascade Range. The earthy aromatics really impress, alongside a core of black raspberry and black tea. This comes off ripe and plump once on the mouth, with red rose water and black truffle accents, as the length and viscosity add depth. Complex and delicious to savor now, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2019 Elk Cove ‘Clay Court’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Elk Cove ‘Clay Court’ Pinot Noir is from vines set on a hillside in the Parrett Mountain region of the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The wine is crafted from Dijon clonal selections 115, 777 as well as Pommard clone Pinot Noir. A soft entry greets you with tart red fruits and citrus embers alongside shades of peat moss on the palate. Enjoy this great new wine over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Elk Cove ‘La Boheme’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Elk Cove ‘La Boheme’ is sourced from the La Boheme Vineyard which was planted with Estate Pommard plantings. The wine comes from vines aged 16-35 years, as this spent ten months in 32% new French oak prior to bottling in July 2020. Very fragrant with its red florals, the wine shows off Yakima cherry tones alongside loamy soils and shades of red currants aromatically. The palate is soft and round upon entry with beautiful red fruits that mingle with blood orange zest and stony/silty undertones. Finishing long, this beautiful wine will easily cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Vinous Washington Report

Friends,

We have now released my first Washington Report for Vinous with over 1K wines reviewed. Please following link: https://vinous.com/articles/washington-waltzes-in-2018-slowly-marches-on-in-2019-mar-2022

Best wishes,

Owen

Pott Wines

One of the great talents of Napa, Aaron Pott built an illustrious winemaking resume as he took his studies at University of California, Davis, across the pond to Bordeaux, serving as winemaker at famed Right Bank house Château Troplong Mondot and later director of Château La Tour Figeac. Pott wanted to return to the Napa Valley and make world class Cabernet Sauvignon there, and served as Beringer’s “flying winemaker” making wine in France, Italy and Chile, later taking over as winemaker at St. Clement in 2001. Aaron then was honored to become winemaker at famed property Quintessa in 2004 which was the same year that he brilliantly purchased a 200 acre (5 acres planted) property on Mt. Veeder and began to develop their own vineyards. 2007 marked the birth of Pott Wines and as the first vintage of Incubo was created. The rest has been history as critics across the globe has lauded these beautiful wines. 

I loved these new wines, just as I did last year. First off, the 2020 Pott Wines ‘Twenty Meters’ Viognier (OB, 93) is serious, beautifully-textured Napa Viognier. I am totally enamored by the dense, yet very well-structured 2019 Pott Wines ‘Her Majesty’s Secret Service’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98) which is named for the Bond film and is pure Cabernet class in a glass. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.pottwine.com/ Here are my tasting notes for the new Pott Wines. 

2020 Pott Wines ‘20M3’ Viognier- Sourced from their estate vineyard set on sandstone, the ‘Twenty Meters 3’ Viognier was stored in Italian terra cotta amphorae prior to bottling. The soft and inviting mouthfeel really entices, as honeysuckle, white peach and shades of wet stone all combine brilliantly — all leading to an exceedingly long finish. The weight and bright acidity suggests there is some great aging potential. Drink 2022-2028- 93

2019 Pott Wines ‘Space and Time’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Space and Time’ by Aaron Pott combines Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, unveiling red rose petals and garrigue notes alongside bright red currants, mocha and tar tones. The palate is soft and ripe with silky tannins that line a core of tobacco leaf, blackberry cobbler and espresso bean, with chocolate covered Bing cherry. Finishing long, this highly refined red blend has both the weight and balance to cellar well over the next two decades. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2019 Pott Wine ‘Her Majesty’s Secret Service’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This beautiful wine was sourced from the famed Stagecoach Vineyard high atop Pritchard Hill and set at roughly 1400 feet. This Weimer clone Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in Sylvain, Taransaud and Bossuet barrels prior to bottling. This revels in its creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and dark floral aromatics that bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is dense and heady with beautifully refined tannins that frame a massive core of black and blue fruits, with loamy soils and graphite accents. Enjoy this scintillating new wine over the next twenty years. Drink 2022-2042- 98

2019 Pott Wines ‘Kaliholmanok’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Stunning and massive yet showing outstanding poise, the 2019 ‘Kaliholmanok’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from Spring Mountain. Anise and creme de violette tones mark the nose alongside rich black cherry cordial and loamy soil accents. Upon entry the soft tannins entice and frame ripe dark currants, roasted dates, creosote, creme de cassis and Arabica bean flavors. Finishing very long, this intense yet finesse-driven effort will be sure to entice over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2022-2042- 97

2019 Pott Wines ‘Incubo’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Incubo’ was sourced from Aaron Pott’s estate vineyard on Mt. Veeder which is set on weathered sandstone and shale. Just a dollop of Cabernet Franc (2%) is added to this wine, which is displaying a dizzying array of aromatics once in the glass. Asian spices march on with black currants, ripe figs and shades of milk chocolate all meld in the glass. The palate is fresh and viscous with serious terroir. Finishing very long this is a sensational, one of a kind, effort that shows the stony and silty undertones of the soils, but comes off very viscous and at the same time light on its feet. Drink 2022-2042- 98

Resonance

One of the great talents of Burgundy, Maison Louis Jadot was founded back in 1859. In 2013 Jadot purchased the old vine Résonance Vineyard, in the Yamhill-Carlton wine region. The vineyard was first planted in 1981 and is one of the older plantings of Pinot Noir in this AVA. The Résonance project was first led by eminent Jadot Winemaker, Jacques Lardière who has crafted Pinot Noir in Burgundy for 42 years. He works closely with winemaker Guillaume Large has been at Resonance since 2017.

I was really impressed with the new wines by Resonance that come from the 2019 vintage which saw very difficult conditions at harvest. Lardiere has deftly managed this vintage, as the wine show good structure but also very good flavor density. I loved the 2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is placed with flavor and shows brilliant length. Just as good is the deep and powerful 2019 Resonance ‘Resonance Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93), as I love the range of flavors at play here. Here are my reviews of the beautiful new wines by Resonance. 

2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This seriously good 2019 Dundee Hills Chardonnay bottling reveals Meyer lemon zest dusted brioche and salty soil notes aromatically alongside shades of toasted hazelnuts. The palate is refined and soft, showing a good sense of tension and richness. Layers of vanilla cream and Challah bread combine with banana and Pink Lady apple. Finishing long, this brilliant wine will shine on for another twelve plus years. Drink 2021-20233- 93

2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2019 Resonance ‘Decouverte Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a complex bottling that is really needing an hour in the decanter prior to enjoying. Beautiful red florals greet you aromatically, with freshly tilled soils, cigar ash and shades of smoldering stones with sour red fruits. The wine shows a seamless texture with outstanding verve, as red cherry and pomegranate seed tones combine with citrus embers and shades of garrigue. Beautiful to savor now, enjoy this great wine over the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 93

2019 Resonance ‘Resonance Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2019 Resonance ‘Resonance Vineyard’ Pinot Noir saw 30% new French oak for eighteen months before bottling in March 2021. The palate is very well-balanced with good finesse and layers of red currants with wintergreen, damp rocks, nori and hints of rose water. Complex and quite earthy, yet still showing good stuffing, savor this over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2021-2036- 93

Quilceda Creek Hires Mark Kaigas As New Winemaker

We have some breaking news this Friday evening as I have learned from Quilceda Creek director of winemaking, Paul Golitzin, that Mark Kaigas has been hired as new winemaker. Mark comes from very serious pedigree having formerly been associate winemaker at Colgin. Golitzin explained “We are very excited to have him on board after searching for the perfect fit to our program and culture.”

This is going to be a really interesting new development in Washinngton wine, as one from one of Napa's finest producers of Cabernet Sauvignon has moved northwards to craft Washington Cabernet Sauvignon. Huge congrats to the Quilceda Creek team on their new hire!

Beaux Frères 'The Beaux Frères Vineyard' Pinot Noir Vertical Tasting

One of the illustrious Oregon estates located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, Beaux Frères was founded by Michael Etzel more than twenty years ago. While on vacation in 1986 Michael came across an 88 acre pig farm and after some consideration he decided to purchase the land with his brother in law, Robert Parker — and the rest became Oregon wine history. Michael focused on his job as vineyard manager by planting Pinot Noir in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and while planting his vineyard he interned at Ponzi Winery. In 1990, He harvested his first estate fruit and sold the grapes winemakers Ken Wright and Dick Ponzi. Michael decided there was something special with his vineyard and began making focused, mineral-driven Pinot Noirs from this special site. The wines were subsequently reviewed with incredible acclaim. 

Over the years I have had the chance to sample these beautiful wines and have been incredibly impressed with their overall quality and purity of red fruit character. There is also a continuous vein of pretty red floral character that runs through these wines. Over the years I have had a chance to sample some of the great examples of these, including more recently vintages 2002 as well as 2005. Today Michael’s son, Mike Etzel, serves as head winemaker. My good friend and Oregon wine collector, Jason Wehling, graciously shared some of his Beaux Frères wines with me a week ago, as we tasted wines from the 2001, 2005 and 2008 vintages together. 

2001 is somewhat of an overlooked vintage with 2002 being arguably the best vintage of the decade. 2001 saw moderate temperatures, with no heat spikes, throughout the growing season, with a touch of rain prior to harvest, which led to wines that showed good balance, but maybe not embodying the depth and concentration of 2002. The 2005 vintage was known for cooler temperatures throughout the growing season, as well as a wet spring that caused some bloom issues. Pinot Noirs were typically more classically styled, with lower alcohol, as I saw this vintage as a producer vintage and thought at the time of release that the top producers performed really well. 2008 on the other hand was a goldilocks vintage of sorts, producing wines with immense aging potential that certainly needed some time to get out of the starting blocks. Upon release these wines were very well-structured, with good tannin quality and finesse, but really needed some time to find themselves in terms of flavor development. The vintage saw very moderate growing conditions with a harvest that extended into late October.

Tasting through these wines I was immediately surprised with how the 2001 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) had held. This was an utterly sensational wine that was immediately gratifying once in the glass. This wine is now getting into the exciting tertiary realm of earthy undertones, so I would open this beauty now. I won’t lie that the 2005 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 99) is quite possibly the finest Oregon wine that I have ever tasted. This wine was simply mesmerizing in the glass, as we quite simply could not believe what we were tasting, with head-turning depth, complexity, finesse and flavor range. Over the next hour the wine became even more mind-bending and pretty, with serious verve intact. What an utterly fabulous wine that I will not soon forget. Learn more about this great historic Oregon estate at https://www.beauxfreres.com/ Here are my tasting notes from what was a night to remember, tasting vintages 2001, 2005 and 2008 of ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir. 

2001 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The astonishingly good 2001 ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir reveals a remarkable level of freshness considering its age. Once on the nose this takes on generous Yakima cherry and red raspberry notes laced with baking spices. Light tannins frame a core of tangerine zest with bright red fruits alongside wet stone, peat moss and suggestions of bergamot. Showing considerable finesse, this beautiful Pinot Noir is peaking now so consume sometime soon. Drink 2022-2025- 95

2005 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Now at nearly twenty years of age, the scintillating 2005 The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is truly one of the finest examples of Oregon Pinot Noir that I have ever consumed. Immediately gratifying once in the glass, the bouquet is nothing short of intoxicating, revealing the very classic Beaux Frères red rose petal tones alongside tremendous nerve and concentration. With more air the wine revels in shades of Nori, black truffle and cran-pomegranate flavors, alongside suggestions of menthol, flint and garrigue. This sinfully good Pinot Noir comes exceedingly close to perfection in a bottle. Absolutely singing its high octave now, this has at least another decade of life in front of it. Drink 2022-2032- 99

2008 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Needing an hour in the decanter to fully come together, the 2008 Beaux Frères ‘The Beaux Frères Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a wine that showcases this very classic and age-worthy Oregon vintage. Once aroused this slowly unveils layers of cranberry and peat moss alongside cardamom and forest floor accents that take shape in the glass. The flavor density expressed is absolutely marvelous particularly after extended air time. Silky soft once on the mouth, with refined tannins, the Pinot Noir displays good verve alongside layers of damp basement, orange peel, black raspberry and shades of white truffle. With brilliant length and viscosity, this surely has both the astringency and stuffing to savor over the next ten to twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 95

Mayacamas Vineyards

A winery dating back to the nineteenth century, Mayacamas Vineyards is one of Napa’s great historic wineries that is known for a very old-world approach in winemaking. The history of this winery is constantly at work as many of their ageing vessels are large format foudrés, some of which have been in constant use in the Mayacamas cellar since the 1920’s. This commitment to large cask ageing is central to the unique style of Mayacamas wine, especially Cabernet Sauvignon.

It is incredible that grapes have been planted on the Mayacamas property since the late 19th century, at elevations of up to 2400 feet above the Valley floor. This estate is known for its mountaintop vineyards for tiny yields of very concentrated mountain grapes. The Taylors, who owned the Estate from 1941 until 1968, were the first to plant Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon vines – still the focus of the Mayacamas production today.

Starting in 2013 much of the vines were replanted as this site focuses on dry farming techniques. I loved the two new releases by Mayacamas, including their very old world style 2020 Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is fresh and concentrated with a downright killer finish. Learn more about this outstanding Napa producer at https://www.mayacamas.com/ and here are the great new releases by Mayacamas.

2020 Mayacamas Chardonnay- The delicious 2020 Mayacamas Chardonnay was harvested very early in mid-August, and was then whole cluster pressed and fermented. Stored in neutral oak barrel, puncheon, and foudre prior to bottling this exudes class with Meyer lemon zest, stony minerals and shades of sourdough bread with crushed wet rock. This is very Chablis vs. Napa. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2019 Mayacamas Merlot- Sourced from older Mt. Veeder plantings, the 2019 Mayacamas Merlot delivers dusty soils alongside black currant candy and shades of espresso bean on the nose. The palate is soft and seamless with silky tannins that frame a core of ripe dark fruits with Black Forest cake flavors. With good verve and viscosity, this is sure to cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 93

Benton-Lane

Benton-Lane founders Steve and Carol Girard were longtime Pinot Noir lovers who finally decided on a 12 mile long area on the foothills of the Willamette Valley Coast Range. This is where they discovered Sunnymount Ranch, an old sheep ranch near the village of Monroe. Sunnymount Ranch had gotten its name over 100 years ago due to Prairie Peak to the west that protected the ranch from winter storms. The land sloped gently to the east so potential vines could catch the morning sun. The ranch was above the valley fog but below the windy hill tops. 

The ranch is set on Jory soil, and was centered in the middle of Willamette Valley where milder weather allowed earlier ripening and more consistent high quality for grape vines. They purchased the 1,860 acre property in 1988 and planting of Pinot Noir commenced the next year. Steve and Carol’s first Benton-Lane wine was produced in 1991, which their friends and family helped consume. Benton-Lane’s first vintage was 1992 which was custom produced at another local winery. Their vineyard now has 142 acres planted to Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay and they recently have new ownership.

I recently had the chance to review their new release wines and was highly impressed. Check out their delicious 2019 Benton-Lane ‘First Class’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is dense and fresh with a lovely finish. Learn more about the Benton Lane story at https://benton-lane.com Here are the great new releases by Benton Lane. 

2019 Benton-Lane ‘First Class’ Chardonnay- Sourced from the Benton-Lane Estate Vineyard, this was aged in 28% new French oak for ten months prior to bottling in August 2020. The resultant wine shows off a lush sense of mouthfeel, as honeydew melon and lime zest tones combine with toasty brioche and vanilla cream on the palate. Seriously good now, enjoy this generous style of Willamette Valley Chardonnay over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir- The 2019 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir saw 18% new French oak for ten months before bottling. Medium-bodied red fruits march on with blood orange zest and shades of forest floor on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2027- 90

2019 Benton-Lane ‘First Class’ Pinot Noir- The nicely concentrated ‘First Class’ Pinot Noir saw considerably more new French oak (36%) and then another twelve months in the bottle before release. The finesse is really excellent as medium-bodied tar and cran-pomegranate tones combine with baking spices and salty undertones on the palate. This will easily cellar well for another decade. Drink 2022-2032- 91

EFESTĒ 'Big Papa' Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical Tasting

Stare into the eyes of EFESTĒ founder Daniel Ferelli and no doubt you’ll receive a smile back. ‘Big Papa’ as Daniel is fondly known as, founded EFESTĒ back in 2001. Daniel’s father, the original ‘Big Papa’ faced many challenges living in Chicago during the Great Depression and prohibition. His family sold jug wine out of their brownstone basement just to get by. Over the years, even when Daniel and Helen were running their own business and raising thr ee children, Daniel always maintained the yearly tradition of making wine with his grandfather’s old wine press. His winemaking partners included his son-in-law and EFESTĒ partner, Kevin Taylor.Finally in 2001, Daniel and Kevin started a new tradition of bottling and labeling their garage wine. With state of the art wine making equipment EFESTĒ winery was born.

For years I have admired the ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon which has been consistently the top wine of their program. Sitting down with winemaker Mark Fiore he talked about he he has adapted the ‘Big Papa’ program, starting with the 2019 vintage, as this wine is now only sourced from the Bacchus, Sagemoor and Dionysus Vineyards. “Quality and simplicity was why we did this. We have a Red Mountain Cabernet and I don’t need to mix Red Mountain into everything. We wanted more focus with this program,” he said.

Yesterday we sat across from each other and tasted through the 2014-2021 vintages of this wine. The 2020 and 2021 editions are still in barrel but are showing really nicely. While more translucent in color, they have really good stuffing and 2021 is already showing serious flavor density. Out of the bottled wines, I loved the 2014 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is quite dense and perfumed, with serious aging potential. This wine is drinking right in its sweet spot right now. The same is true with the 2016 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is very soft upon entry and don’t be afraid to open this beauty if you have a few stashed away. Just as good was the sensational 2018 ‘Big Papa’ (OB, 94) which is dense and chewy with gorgeous non-fruit flavors and a long finish. Learn more about this great Woodinville winery at efeste.com and here are my reviews of the 2014-2021 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon. 

2014 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This 2014 edition of ‘Big Papa’ came from the Bacchus, Kiona, Klipsun, Sagemoor and Red Willow Vineyards. Deep and brooding in the glass, this offers intense dark fruits on the nose with tar, tobacco leaf and shades of black truffle. The secondary notes here are really exceptional, as are the black floral tones. The palate is deep and dense with refined tannins that hold in place a core of black raspberry, cardamom dusted blackberry, coffee grounds and tar notes. This is a delight to savor right now, so why wait? Drink 2022-2030- 94

2015 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Big Papa’ was sourced from the Bacchus, Angelas, Kiona, Klipsun, Sagemoor and Red Willow Vineyards. The wine comes off a touch hot but shows good flavor density with blackberry liquor and baking spices that collide with shades of mocha and tar. Enjoy this over the next few years as I don’t see the wine improving. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2016 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is now the second time this year that I have opened the 2016 EFESTE ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon, the first being from my personal collection. Heady and densely colored in the glass, this unveils rich red and dark fruits with roasted figs, baking spices and shades of milk chocolate. The palate is soft and generous with good length. Rich cassis and anise tones combine with salty undertones the palate with shades of creosote. No need to wait on this beauty. Drink 2022-2028- 94

2017 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2017 ‘Big Papa’ is a seamless wine that is really coming into its own. Sagebrush and black cherry cordial tones combine with shades of espresso bean on the nose. The palate is dense and inviting with a silky texture. Baking spices and Black Forest Cake flavors collide with lighter earthy undertones with refined tannins holding everything together neatly. This is already beautifully evolved. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2018 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- 2018 was Mark Fiore’s first full vintage making wine for EFESTĒ, as this was sourced from Bacchus, Sagemoor, Klipsun and Kiona Vineyards. Aged in roughly 60% new French oak, this delivers ripe black currant flavors alongside tar, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate shavings with scorched earth undertones on the palate. Finishing very long, this is really good to enjoy right now, but will also cellar well over the next twelve years. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is now the second time in the past few months that I have tasted the 2019 ‘Big Papa.’ Herbal undertones mark the nose alongside black currants and chocolate combine on the palate. With a seamless texture and great length, this is drinking brilliantly already at the three year mark. Drink 2022-2034- 93

2020 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon-  BARREL SAMPLE 92-94

2021 EFESTĒ ‘Big Papa’ Cabernet Sauvignon- BARREL SAMPLE 92-94