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Owen Bargreen

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Ponzi Vineyards made some sensational wines from the 2018 vintage.

Ponzi Vineyards

February 23, 2022

One of the historic sites fo Pinot Noir in Oregon, it was back in 1960s when Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to the Willamette Valley on a mission to make top notch Pinot Noir. After many research trips to Burgundy and an extensive search for the ideal location, they purchased 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. There were only a few other farmers growing Pinot Noir back then but Dick and Nancy saw the potential for the varietal in the Northern Willamette Valley. Truly one of the historic producers of Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Ponzi Vineyards is now under their second generation with President and Director of Sales and Marketing, Anna Maria Ponzi and Winemaker Luisa Ponzi.

For years I have been impressed with the consistency of these wines and I was very impressed with last years efforts. The new wines that I tasted come from the 2018 vintage and were beautiful across the board. Their 2018 wines have structure, body and really excellent flavor density.

I love the 2018 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is dense and fresh with a silky texture. Unbelievably good even right now, the 2018 Ponzi ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) is a barrel select wine that brilliantly captures the warmth of the vintage. This is a big and brash style of Pinot Noir that is also brilliantly nervy, with really good flavor range. This killer Pinot Noir will be sure to cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about these outstanding wines at ponzivineyards.com. Here are the great new wines by Ponzi. 


2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay- Seriously good, displaying plenty of ripeness from this warm vintage, the 2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay revels in its buttered brioche and Japanese pear tones that combine with bright minerals and lemon meringue undertones. Full-bodied and delicious, consume this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 93


2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir- A beautiful new wine by winemaker Luisa Ponzi, the 2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir is sourced from higher elevation sites, set on both windblown and Jory soils. The nose is beautifully perfumed with red rose petals and red cherry preserves alongside a dusting of freshly tilled soils. The palate shows really nice texture and finesse, finishing long with bright red fruits, citrus embers and toasty oak. Drink 2022-2032- 92


2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Definitely not for the weary, the 2018 Ponzi Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir is a decadent, warm vintage effort that is built to age. Once on the nose this takes on layers of loganberry preserves alongside Yakima cherry, tobacco leaf and shades of tar with baking spices. You have to admire the flavor range with its red and dark fruit profile, alongside citrus blossom, salty, loamy soils and a faint smoldering stoney accent. This comes off very and unveils a luxurious texture, with plenty of mouth-watering acidity and excellent length, adding to the crescendo. Glorious to consume in its full-throttle youth, the 2018 ‘Reserve’ is sure to satisfy over the next twenty years. Drink 2022-2040- 95

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Here we have the beautiful Evening Land wines from the 2019 vintage.

Evening Land

February 22, 2022

One of the outstanding producers in the Willamette Valley, Evening Land has helped the region achieve national fame with their famed Chardonnay wines. Their iconic Seven Springs Vineyard produces some of the great Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay bottlings of Oregon. First planted in 1984, the Seven Springs Vineyard is one of the great historic vineyards in the Pacific Northwest. Planted with eastern exposure, Seven Springs Vineyard fruit experiences an abundance of morning sunlight and also experiences cool breezes in from the Pacific Ocean through the Van Duzer Corridor. The combination of heat and cool breezes affords the fruit to slowly ripen. Celebrity somm, Rajat Parr and Sasha Moorman head the winemaking team at Evening Land. They form what is truly one of the best teams in the state.

This winery has a scenic location that is a must visit for any serious collector of Oregon Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. An amazing effort, the 2019 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) is downright killer wine for the price. This has beautiful range and is already drinking marvelously, with serious tension. The best wine that I sampled was the dazzling 2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) which is up thee with the best Oregon Chardonnay that I have sampled this past year. Learn more about Evening Land at https://www.eveninglandvineyards.com Here are the amazing new release wines by Evening Land.


2016 Evening Land ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- A rich, golden hue, the gorgeous zero dosage 2016 ‘Blanc de Blancs’ is a glorious, warm vintage offering with tons of finesse, with good richness and intensity. Lemon rind, with salted brioche and gooseberry tones mingle on the palate. Highly enjoyable now, savor this for another decade. Drink 2022-2032-91


2019 Evening Land ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay- A really outstanding value, the 2019 ‘Seven Springs’ Chardonnay by Evening Land delivers plenty of finesse with bright pear, gooseberry and melon flavors alongside the beam of tension and salty accents. Enjoy over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 92


2019 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Chardonnay-Sourced from the iron-rich and stony portion of the vineyard, the glorious 2019 ‘La Source’ Chardonnay weighs in at a mere 12.9% alcohol, as this was stored in Austrian puncheons before bottling. The palate is wonderfully flinty with bright pear and citrus zest flavors alongside suggestions of white rose water, and lighter dried mango notes. Finishing exceedingly long, this complex, mineral-laden, bottling will surely survive for another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94


2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Chardonnay- Brilliantly colored once in the glass, the heady yet highly nervy 2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Chardonnay is a stunning wine that will surely get better with some time in the bottle. Aged for 12 months in Austrian puncheons, this barrel-select wine reveals gunpowder and wet stone on the nose, alongside ripe Japanese pear and lemon blossom tones that seamlessly meld in the glass. The palate shows a dense mouthfeel, with loads of tension alongside an unctuous, oily texture. Finishing exceedingly long, this beautiful new wine will surely satisfy for another two decades to come. Drink 2022-2042- 96


2019 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Pinot Noir-The seriously good  2019 Evening Land ‘La Source’ Pinot Noir is sourced from Dijon clone Pinot Noir that are set in shallow, rocky soils. Smoldering volcanic stones and crushed cranberry with red rose petal florals all come together marvelously on the nose.The palate is very soft and refined with silky tannins that line a beautiful core of tart red fruits with citrus rind and stony undercurrents. Finishing very long, this is elegant and refined Oregon Pinot Noir that is built to age. Drink 2022-2037- 93


2019 Evening Land ‘Summum’ Pinot Noir- The sensational 2019 ‘Summum’ Pinot Noir is a densely packed and tightly wound animal that really needs a two hour decant prior to being consumed. Once aroused this slowly unveils layers of pomegranate seed, citrus embers, toasty oak and boysenberry cordial alongside suggestions of white truffle on the palate. Even more bold than the ‘La Source’ this generous and broad-shouldered effort, particularly considering the vintage, has both the weight and finesse to live on for several decades to come. Drink 2022-2042- 95


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Here are the beautiful new vintage Champagnes by Leclerc Briant.

Leclerc Briant

February 18, 2022

I admire the range of boutique producers in Champagne. Lucien Leclerc founded the winery with four hectares of vineyards in Cumières in 1872. The business moved to Épernay in 1955 when Bertrand Leclerc married Jacqueline Briant and formed the négociant firm which still carries their name.

Leclerc Briant began its organic practices beginning in the 1960’s and helped pioneer the idea behind single-vineyard Champagne beginning in the 1970’s. Fifth generation vigneron, Pascal Leclerc began following biodynamic principles in 1988, with part of the production Demeter certified since 2003. Today, enologist Hervé Jestin serves as vigneron.

La Croisette is the home vineyard of Leclerc Briant, a 0.6 -hectare plot adjacent to the winery in Épernay, planted in 1966 to Chardonnay. Remarkably, this vineyard has never been treated with herbicides or pesticides. The remaining 9.6 hectares of vineyard are spread between the Premier Cru villages of Cumières, Hautvillers, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Bisseuil in the Vallée de la Marne, Villers-Allerand and Rilly la Montagne in Montagne de Reims and in the Grand Cru villages of Cramant and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs. 

I greatly admired the new Champagnes by Hervé Jestin, who has been at the helm since 2008. His NV ‘Premier Cru Extra Brut’ Champagne (OB, 92) is a gorgeous blend of mostly Pinot Noir thats comes off big and round with a plump sense of mouthfeel and wonderful tension. The best wine I sampled is the seriously good and novel, 100% Chardonnay 2015 Leclerc Briant ‘Zero Dosage La Croisette’ Champagne (OB,95), displaying dazzling minerality and gobs of citrus oil and salty flavors. This generous Champagne will live on for another twenty years.  Learn more about this great house in Champagne at http://leclercbriant.fr and here are my new reviews of the latest releases from Leclerc Briant. 


NV Leclerc Briant ‘Reserve Brut’ Champagne- Given 4.5 G/L dosage, the Leclerc Briant ‘Reserve Brut’ Champagne was disgorged in April 2021. Biscuit and Shitaake mushrooms combine with pink grapefruit blossom on this beautifully fragrant nose. Fresh and racy, this delivers Key lime zest and ginger flavors alongside a good sense of astringency and salty undertones on the palate. Enjoy this refined style of Brut Champagne over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 90


NV Leclerc Briant ‘Premier Cru Extra Brut’ Champagne- The gorgeous Leclerc Briant ‘Premier Cru Extra Brut’ Champagne is an elegant blend of 70% Pinot Noir with equal parts Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, with the base vintage being 2015. Disgorged in May 2021, this reveals roasted hazelnut with lemon zest dusted brioche aromatics that all dance in unison. The palate is polished with a silky mousse, displaying refined bubbles with ripe citrus fruits, marzipan and hints of guava. The dense sense of mouthfeel adds to the enjoyment as this is best enjoyed over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92


NV Leclerc Briant ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne- The NV Leclerc Briant ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne comes out of the bottle revealing a deep salmon hue. Very fine bubbles greet you in this 4.5G/L dosage Rose, with 2017 as its base vintage. Kumquat peel, sour red raspberry and pomegranate seed flavors that mingle with saline drenched pear on the palate. Enjoy this fresh and invigorating style of Rose over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 91


2014 Leclerc Briant ‘Extra Brut’ Champagne- Focused and showing good weight from the vintage, the 2014 Leclerc Briant ‘Extra Brut’ Champagne offers plenty of ripe pear and brioche tones alongside shades of candied ginger and lighter white flowers. The smooth mousse and downright awesome texture to the wine both accentuate this refined style of vintage Champagne. Drink 2022-2036- 93


2015 Leclerc Briant ‘Zero Dosage La Croisette’ Champagne- The top wine out of this lineup, the brilliant 2015 Leclerc Briant ‘Zero Dosage’ Champagne is crafted from a 1.5 acre vineyard set on clay and loamy soils, adjacent the winery in Épernay. “La Croisette" is the name of a little pathway near the winery that overlooks Épernay as this 100% Chardonnay Champagne was aged in 10 months in a combination of oak barrels and terra cotta eggs, and then minimum of 24 to 36 months sur lattes. Dense orchard and melon fruits greet you aromatically, with salty soils and shades of white rose water. The palate is concentrated and intense with gobs of white grapefruit oil, salted sourdough bread and ripe Japanese pear flavors that combine with nutty undertones. Complex and very delicious now, this has both the weight and finesse to cellar well over the next two decades. Drink 2022-2040- 95

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Here we have the glorious new 2019 Chateau de Beaucastel.

Chateau de Beaucastel

February 16, 2022

I think every wine lover remembers their first bottle of Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. For me, I fondly recall the 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel. This is a wine that typically pairs so well with food due to its inherent balance —and is best enjoyed with fellow wine loving friends.

The region of Chateauneuf du Pape dates back to the 11th century historical records. The town of Avignon in this region was the previous site of the papacy, following a Roman invasion. Bertrand de Got, archbishop of Bordeaux, was elected pope in 1305, and took the name of Clement V as he transferred the papacy from Rome to Avignon in 1309. The register of pontifical letters reveals that Clement V visited Châteauneuf on several occasions, at times for many months.

Wine had a serious effect in this region before the arrival of the papacy but there are no actual historical records of wine or vineyards prior to this time. We do know that most of the wine grown in this region prior to the 18th century was drunk within a year, which was true to the cultural times. It wasn’t until 1923 when local wine producers led the way to have their wines classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) was formed.

The famed Chateau de Beaucastel is named after the Beaucastel family which lived in this region in the 16th century. Amazingly we can find records that show a Pierre de Beaucastel buying a barn and some associated land at Coudoulet in 1549, and this land is still part of Château de Beaucastel's holdings. In the 19th century, when the Phylloxera epidemic struck the region, the owner decided not to replant the vineyards but rather to sell the property. In 1909, it was bought by Pierre Tramier, and the vineyards were rebuilt under his ownership. After him, his son-in-law Pierre Perrin took over management and expanded Château de Beaucastel's vineyard holdings considerably. The property has stayed in the Perrin family since.

I have been very fortunate over the past few years to taste several older bottles of Chateau de Beaucastel. It is incredible how these wines evolve so gracefully. Chateau de Beaucastel is one of the few wineries that uses 13 different Rhone varietals in its Châteauneuf du Pape, and typically uses a high proportion of Mourvèdre. 

I adored the new 2019 Chateau de Beaucastel (OB, 98) which is one of the finest editions of this wine in current memory. Everything is working perfectly in unison here, as this is heady, yet very well-balanced, with incredible poise and weight. This wine will easily cellar for another twenty years. Learn more about this famed estate at http://www.beaucastel.com Here is the gorgeous 2019 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. 


2019 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape- The utterly stunning, wow-factor 2019 Chateau de Beaucastel is a glorious effort from this great vintage in the Southern Rhone. Linzer torte with Yakima cherry, blood orange zest and wet stone tones all seamlessly come together aromatically. The palate is deep, concentrated and sinfully good. Dense red fruits combine with salted rocks, citrus rind and shades of Hoisin sauce on the palate. Flamboyant in its fabulous youth, this stunning wine will surely live on for another twenty years. Drink 2022-2042- 98

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Gorgeous views of Le Mesnil from Champagne Delamotte.

Champagne Delamotte

February 15, 2022

It is not often you equate champagne with value. One of the great producers that also offers insanely good value, Champagne Delamotte is located in the heart of the Cote de Blancs and is the sister winery of famed house Champagne Salon. This historic house dates back to the 1760s and sources from some of the great vineyards in Champagne, including those located in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize and Oger, as well as the Cote des Blancs, marvelously highlight world class Chardonnay. I’ve been enchanted by these wines for many years. Didier Depond serves as general manager for Delamotte as well as for Salon. Like Salon, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay grapes for Delamotte are sourced from Grand Cru-rated vineyards. The Delamotte range of wines offers more approachability, than those made at Salon — but also share some really good cellaring potential.

I adored all of the new releases by Delamotte including their gorgeous NV ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne (OB, 93) which is dense and plush with plenty of weight and gorgeous chalky mineral tones. I was enamored by the sinfully good 2014 Delamotte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne (OB, 95) which is a rich and layered style that is built for aging. Find out more about this historic Champagne house at https://www.champagne-delamotte.com/en/ Here are the gorgeous new wines by Champagne Delamotte.


NV Delamotte Brut Champagne- This great NV Brut was vilified in stainless steel and given 8G/L dosage as the base comes from the 2017 vintage (85%). Disgorged in early 2021, this unveils biscuit tones alongside baked apple and saline drenched pear. The palate shows a soft mousse with a plush mouthfeel. Plenty of orchard and citrus fruits combine with stony minerals on the palate. Drink 2022-2028- 92


NV Delamotte Rose Champagne- Unlike the NV Brut, the NV Rose utilizes the 2018 vintage as a base which is done to preserve more freshness, given 7G/L dosage. Made from 80% Pinot Noir with 20% Chardonnay (from Le Mesnil), this shows off hazelnut tones alongside very pretty red fruits and shades of blood orange zest. The palate is very refined and delicate, with red raspberry alongside wet stone and salty undercurrents. Drink 2022-2029- 92


NV Delamotte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne- This 100% Chardonnay was sourced from four villages with a base from the 2016 vintage, with the remainder from the 2014 and 2015 vintages. Vinified in stainless steel, this then was aged for four years and was given 7G/L. Salted nuts with brioche and shades of Japanese pear all combine aromatically. The palate is soft and round with a seamless texture and lengthy chalky finish. This is remarkably good for the price. Drink 2021-2031-  93


2014 Delamotte ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Champagne- The 2014 ‘Blanc de Blancs’ by Delamotte is a broad-shouldered Chardonnay wine, as this was not made in the 2013 vintage. Disgorged in June 2021, with 6.5G/L, the wine sourced from six villages in the Cote de Blancs. Once on the nose this takes on layers of marzipan with gooseberry, green papaya and suggestions of pastry crust. The combination of weight and tension here is really exceptional, as this seamlessly glides across the mid-palate. Bright and deeply concentrated, this generous style of Blanc de Blancs will surely live on for another fifteen years or more. Drink 2022-2038- 95

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Here is the glorious 2014 ‘Cristal’ (OB, 97), a wine that will be exceedingly age-worthy.

Louis Roederer 'Cristal' Champagne

February 14, 2022

Happy Valentine’s Day to you all! For those who know me, there is very little doubt that I love top champagne. I had a glorious visit to Louis Roederer in January and had a chance to visit their gorgeous new lineup of wines. Louis Roederer only produces their ‘Cristal’ Champagne in specific vintages that work for their style. The first ‘Cristal’ Champagne was created back in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II. The emperor asked Louis Roederer to reserve the House’s best cuvée for him every year as he was fond of Louis Roederer’s style. This Champagne was initially distinguished by being presented in a flat-bottomed, transparent lead-crystal bottle. The ‘Cristal’ brand was named after the lead-crystal bottle, which is particularly transparent and luminous. 

‘Cristal’ Champagne blending is typically around 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, although that varies on the vintage. Cristal is aged for 6 years in Louis Roederer’s cellars and then left for a further 8 months after dégorgement. The ‘Cristal’ Rose Champagne is always composed of estate fruit and the wine is primarily fermented and aged in steel, but roughly 15-20% of the blend is aged in oak. Their cellar master has been slowly lowering dosage to 8-9 g/l. 

I have been impressed with the 2014 champagnes that I have tasted. The best that I have had so far is this sensational new 2014 ‘Cristal’ (OB, 97) which is a more dense style somewhat more akin to their 2006 or 2009 bottling. The wine shows insanely good texture and weight with its signature soft mousse and refined bubbles. This is champagne that can benefit from 20-30 minutes in the decanter, unlike the 2013 edition which marches right out of the gate. Learn more about this great Champagne at http://www.louis-roederer.com/en/wine/cristal


2014 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne- The dense and intense 2014 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne is a stunning, riper style of ‘Cristal’ that more closely mirrors the 2006 or 2009 editions of this wine. Once on the nose this exudes class with salted lemon peel, kumquat and suggestions of cardamom dusted brioche. Very refined bubbles greet you, as salted cashew, Key lime, and melon fruits with hints of white truffle all brilliantly amalgamate into a highly complex animal. The dense mouthfeel and silky mousse all add to the enjoyment, as this will be a very long-lived ‘Cristal.’ Drink 2022-2040- 97

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Argyle has crafted some beautiful Pinot Noirs for a great cause.

Argyle 'Oyo Brilloso' Pinot Noir

February 11, 2022

Argyle is one of those great Pacific Northwest wineries that proudly supports wonderful causes. Ojo Brilloso or ‘shiny eye’ is named after those who manage the Argyle Vineyards. Each wine is selected by the vineyard manager from three of Oregon’s premier vineyards: The Knudsen, Lone Star and Spirit Hill Vineyards. Each wine utilizes different clonal selection of Pinot Noir. 

These are limited production wines from the 2019 vintage that are each seriously good and made by the talented Nate Klostermann. Proceeds from these wines go towards three remarkable charities working towards equality, opportunity, and diversity within the wine industry: AHIVOY, The Roots Fund, and ¡Salud!. Learn more at https://shop.argylewinery.com/product/2019-Ojo-Brilloso-Set and here are my reviews of the three 2019 ‘Oyo Brilloso’ wines.


2019 Argyle ‘Ojo Brilloso Lone Star Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The marvelous 2019 Argyle ‘Ojo Brilloso Lone Star Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a deeply concentrated effort from this cooler vintage. Sourced from a parcel of Dijon clonal selection 667, this unveils beautiful strawberry and guava notes alongside freshly tilled soils and salty undercurrents on the palate.The generous length and texture add to the enjoyment, as this will live on for another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 93


2019 Argyle ‘Ojo Brilloso Knudsen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The bright 2019 Argyle ‘Ojo Brilloso Knudsen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was chosen by vineyard supervisor Jose Sanchez, as the wine was crafted from Pommard clone grapes planted back in 2008. Tart red fruits greet you, with salted citrus zest, peat moss and suggestions of Asian spices that all marvelously come together. Delicious now, this will continue to satisfy over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 93


2019 Argyle ‘Ojo Brilloso Spirit Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2019 Argyle ‘Ojo Brilloso Spirit Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from a block of Pommard clonal selection Pinot Noir and selected by vineyard supervisor Francisco Ponce. The nose is bright and wonderfully perfumed with red rose petals, wild strawberry and Bing cherry tones with damp earthy accents. The palate is soft and round, showing very pretty guava, red cherry and red raspberry flavors alongside a killer veil of tension. This surely will show well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2022-2037- 93


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Great photo of G. Khan proprietor Roy Kim.

G. Khan

February 11, 2022

Who doesn’t love a saline drenched, red fruit-driven California Pinot Noir. For Pinophiles across the globe, there is something special and unique about the wines of Santa Barbara County. The terroir is something I have always loved in these wines that can show sandy or rocky tones alongside the red fruit profile. An ultra-boutique winery based in Santa Barbara County, G. Khan utilizes the talents of Liquid Farm winemaker James Sparks.

James utilizes his deft touch to these wines that are very unique and subtle, making this brand very Santa Barbara meets Beaune. The brand was founded by proprietor Roy Kim who sought to create a brand that was highly Burgundian to satiate his love for French wines utilizing top fruit from the Santa Rita Hills. Roy purchased grapes from the famed Radian Vineyard which is known for its very cool location, producing very low yields and pretty fruit profiles at lower alcohol levels. Radian is the western most vineyard along Santa Rosa Road in Santa Rita Hills and the soil is composed of clay, loam, and diatomaceous earth giving a distinct minerality to the wine. Yields range from less than 1 ton/acre to less than 2 tons/acre.

I was fully enamored by the two G. Khan wines that I tasted which were very different, coming from the 2015 and 2016 vintages. The 2016 G. Khan ‘Radian Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) takes on more of a bright red fruit profile, with stunning tension and a silky mouthfeel. The more subtle 2015 G. Khan ‘Radian Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) is even more salty and earthy with a smooth texture and wonderful sense of weight. Learn more about these outstanding Pinot Noir wines at http://gkhanwine.com and here are my reviews of the new Pinot Noirs by G. Khan.


2015 G. Khan ‘Radian Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Completely different and even more backwards than the 2016 bottling, the 2015 G. Khan ‘Radian Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a stunning effort that shows really good nerve and density, with serious terroir. Needing about an hour in the decanter to he fully aroused, this unveils very pretty red rose petal tones alongside citrus embers, bergamot and smoldering stone accents. The palate is extremely elegant and refined, with fine-grained tannins tight hold in place a very pretty core of guava puree, cranberry and saline drenched blood orange zest. Dense and layered, with good nuance, this beautiful wine will surely gratify over the next decade. Drink 2022-2034- 93


2016 G. Khan ‘Radian Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The seriously good 2016 G. Khan ‘Radian Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a sensational new wine by the talented James Sparks. Immediately more aromatically expressive than the 2015 bottling, this reveals bright red currant and dried sage notes alongside shades of salted strawberry that all take shape in the glass. The palate shows a great veil of tension, as medium-bodied red fruit flavors collide with citrus rind and stony minerals. Gorgeous to consume now, this should hold well for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2034- 94

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Here we have the thrilling new 2019 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98).

Spottswoode

February 8, 2022

It is hard to imagine that Spottswoode was founded all the way back in 1882 by George Schonewald. Spottswoode was christened by Mrs. Albert Spotts in 1910 and was later acquired by Mary and Jack Novak in 1972. Mary released Spottswoode’s first Cabernet Sauvignon in 1982, exactly one hundred years after the estate’s founding.

Continuing the family lineage, Mary’s daughter Beth Novak Milliken manages the winery, and daughter Lindy Novak serves as the winery’s Marketing Ambassador. Every year Spottswoode produces an Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and an Estate Sauvignon Blanc in honor of their founder, Mary Novak. Spottswoode also crafts a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon called Lyndenhurst, a dual-appellation Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc, and two limited-production wines for club members only (Spottswoode Estate “Mary’s Block” Sauvignon Blanc and Field Book Syrah). Their Lyndenhurst wines can offerreallygood value. 

The estate itself is located at western edge of St. Helena at the foot of the Mayacamas mountains, as vines are set on alluvial clay loam while a strong wartime influence runs through Spring Mountain and the Mayacamas range. The estate has forty acres of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with portions of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Sauvignon Blanc which have been organically farmed since 1985.

I adored the new 2019 Spottswoode ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98) which is intense and finesse-driven, with incredible aging potential. Learn more about this famed Napa winery at https://www.spottswoode.com Here is my review of the new Spottswoode wines.


2019 Spottswoode ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A monumental blend of nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (89.5%) from this estate on the western bench of St. Helena, the 2019 Spottswoode ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon is right up there with some of the great wines that I have tasted from this estate. Obviously deep and brooding, this shows impeccable balance and a literal cornucopia of flavors, ranging from tobacco leaf, salted dark fruits and smoky tones to creme de violette and Arabica bean tones. Finishing long, this is nervy, intense wine that really can benefit from two to three hours in the decanter prior to enjoying. Savor this beauty over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2024-2044- 98


2019 Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon- This great new Cabernet Sauvignon is named after the linden trees that line that Spottswoode grounds. Aged for 20 months in 57% new French oak, this reveals medium-bodied black currant and anise flavors alongside suggestions of tar and freshly tilled soils, with salty undercurrents. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92

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Here are the beautiful new releases by Chateau Bellefont-Belcier.

Chateau Bellefont-Belcier

February 7, 2022

A famed historic estate in Saint-Emilion, Chateau Bellefont-Belcier is located on a south-facing slope, neighboring Château Pavie, Château Larcis-Ducasse and Château Tertre Roteboeuf. Château Bellefont-Belcier originally was owned by a famous Bordeaux family: at the end of the 18th century, the Count Louis-François de Belcier had first founded the vineyard then, at the beginning of the 19th century, he build the Château which he named Bellefont (Belle Fontaine means ‘beautiful fountain’ and is a reference to the numerous springs hidden on the hillside into which the vines plunge their roots). Bellefont’s vineyard extends over 13.5 hectares in parcel which has three distinct areas: the limestone plateau, the South slope clay-limestone, the clayey-sandy parcels. The site is planted to 72% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc and 11% of Cabernet Sauvignon spread over 28 plots. The average age of the vines is about 35 years.

I loved the latest four set of releases from this estate. While I have enjoyed older bottles of this wine, particularly loving their 2000, there is clearly an increase in quality over the past several  years since new proprietor Peter Kwok has taken the reins. The best wine I tasted was the glorious 2018 Chateau Bellefont-Belcier (OB, 93) which is dense and chewy, really needing a few more years in the cellar — but also showing some magnificent aging potential. Learn more about this historic chateau at http://www.vignoblesk.com/en/our-properties/chateau-bellefont-belcier.aspx and here are the latest releases by Chateau Bellefont-Belcier. 


2016 Chateau Bellefont-Belcier- A fantastic blend of 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is inky once in the glass, unveiling considerable more depth and concentration than the 2017. You admire its deep core of black currant cordial, mocha, tar and loamy soils that greet you, alongside a great veil of tension. Already nicely evolved, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade or more. Drink 2022-2035- 92


2017 Chateau Bellefont-Belcier- Very finesse-driven, the 2017 Bellefont-Belcier has good richness considering the challenges of the vintage. Aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months, this displays medium-bodied graphite and sandalwood tones alongside ripe blackberry and espresso bean tones on the palate. This is really enjoyable now and will continue to evolve over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 90


2018 Chateau Bellefont-Belcier- The 2018 Chateau Bellefont-Belcier is a gorgeous bottling from proprietor Peter Kwok, as this blends 70% Merlot with 25% Cabernet Franc and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. The rich cassis and black cherry notes from the Merlot really impress mid-palate, as stony and savory tones round out this beautiful wine that really needs another year or two in the bottle. The potential is really there with this concentrated Saint-Emilion — just try to forget it for a few more years. Drink 2024-2040- 93


2019 Chateau Bellefont-Belcier- The same blend as the 2018 Bellefont, this wine was aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. It is quite backwards even after a long decant at this time, yet shows serious potential as pencil lead, tar, black licorice and violets all parade on the palate alongside copious stony minerals. Medium to full-bodied, with gobs of finesse, enjoy this beautiful wine a few years from now. Drink 2024-2035- 92

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Here is the beautiful 1996 ‘Belle Epoque’ by Perrier-Jouet.

Perrier-Jouet

February 2, 2022

One of the older houses in champagne, Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose-Adélaïde Jouët shared a love of nature and the arts. She was a cultured young woman from a Norman merchant family; he a masterful vintner and botanist. A year after their wedding, in 1811 they founded Maison Perrier-Jouët and their son Charles Perrier, a botanist like his father, took over the House in 1848. Their first wine was the Perrier-Jouët brut Champagne, Cuvée K made in 1842 which was a popular wine served at army courts.

That beautiful painted floral label didn’t come until 1902 when Octave Gallice commissioned Emile Gallé to design the bottle of a Perrier-Jouet cuvée - the creation of the famous bottle decorated with Japanese anemones which would symbolize the house. Currently, production is roughly 3 million bottles annually.

Over the past year I have had the chance to taste a range of Perrier-Jouet wines, including several vintages of their top tete de cuvee, the ‘Belle Epoque.’ I love their release from the 2012 vintage which is bold and delicious to consume now, with seriously good flavor range. If you have any of their older vintage ‘Belle Epoque’ wines, I would consider consuming them in the near future, as I do not see these wines improving. Learn more at https://www.perrier-jouet.com/en-ww and here are my tasting notes from the wines of Perrier-Jouet. 



NV Perrier Jouet ‘Grand Brut’ Champagne- Fresh and polished, the NV Perrier Jouet ‘Grand Brut’ reveals straightforward sourdough bread flavors alongside a nice dusting of salty minerals and lemon rind flavors. Very mineral-driven, with a soft mousse, enjoy this delicious, straightforward Brut over the next several years. Drink 2022-2026- 90


1996 Perrier-Jouet ‘Belle Epoque’ Champagne- The big and bold 1996 ‘Belle Epoch’ is starting its decline now at the twenty six year mark. Fresher and considerably more expansive over the first 30 minutes of consumption, the wine leads with kumquat rind dusted French bread, marzipan and hints of bergamot with cashew nut tones on the palate. Enjoy this beautiful, mature champagne over the next several years. Drink 2022-2028- 93


2002 Perrier-Jouet ‘Belle Epoque’ Champagne- One of my favorite vintages of this wine, the 2002 ‘Belle Epoque’ Champagne appears to be holding quite well even at the twenty year mark. This takes on copious melon fruits alongside Meyer lemon zest, quince, salted walnut and shades of toasty brioche on the palate, with gobs of finesse and diatomaceous earthy tones. A standout wine to enjoy now, moving into the lovely secondary notes, savor over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 94


2006 Perrier-Jouet ‘Belle Epoque’ Champagne- A bigger style for this house, the 2006 ‘Belle Epoch’ is already very evolved and is needing to be consumed over the next few years. Hints of white raisin, Golden Delicious apple and baking spice laced Challah bread all enter the fray, as the mouthfeel and lighter tension hold things together nicely. Drink 2022-2028- 92


2012 Perrier-Jouet ‘Belle Epoque’ Champagne- The 2012 ‘Belle Epoque’  blends 50% Chardonnay, and 45% Pinot Noir with 5% Pinot Meunier from nearly all Grand Cru Vineyards. Powerful and very nervy now, this yields a beautifully orchestrated entry with plenty of bright salinity and chalky undertones. Ripe Japanese pear, Mandarin orange rind, freshly buttered French bread and salted pistachio nut flavors all combine with the soft mouthfeel and lengthy finish. A standout wine, the 2012 ‘Belle Epoque’ will surely cellar well for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2022-2036- 94

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Michael Davies crafts some great new wines for Rex Hill.

Rex Hill

February 1, 2022

One of the historic spots in the Willamette Valley, Rex Hill began back in 1992 and continues to share their legacy today. Winemaker Michael Davies has a longstanding history making Pinot Noir. Originally from a small town in New Zealand, Michael completed a Bachelor of Arts in Economics, Scandinavian Studies and Political Science at the University of Auckland leading to some unusual jobs, before returning to Lincoln University for a post-graduate diploma in Viticulture & Enology. Prior to joining Rex Hill and A to Z, he served as Vineyard Manager and Assistant Winemaker for 6 years at Chehalem, as well as in Burgundy, California, the Hunter Valley of Australia and numerous regions of New Zealand. 

Michael has crafted some beautiful new wines for Rex Hill. I adored his 2018 Rex Hill ‘Seven Soils’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which brilliantly speaks to the vintage with its good richness and great sense of texture. This is a sure bet for any serious lover of Oregon Chardonnay. Learn more about these great wines at 


2018 Rex Hill ‘Seven Soils’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Seven Soils’ was stored in 90% neutral French oak prior to bottling, as this blends a range of vineyards and finished resting for three months in stainless steel. This is a fresh and beautifully textured version of Oregon Chardonnay, with buttered French bread, honeydew melon and lemon rind flavors that combine with plenty of stony minerals. Enjoy this outstanding new wine over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92


2018 Rex Hill ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Bright red currants combine with loamy soils, wild mushroom and orange zest flavors on the palate. Enjoy this medium-bodied effort over the next five to seven years. Drink 2022-2026- 90


2018 Rex Hill ‘Chehalem Mountains’ Pinot Noir- A fresher style for the vineyard, this unveils ripe red cherry and pomegranate seed flavors alongside a dusting of volcanic earth and citrus rind tones on the palate. Medium-bodied and filled with finesse, this will surely cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 91

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Here we have the sensational new lineup of Cliff Lede wines.

Cliff Lede

January 31, 2022

Cliff Lede grew up involved with his family’s successful construction business in Canada, and first discovered the splendor of the Napa Valley while on a business retreat in the 1990s. A collector of top Bordeaux, Cliff was immediately drawn to the incredible landscapes and wine culture of Napa. He saw the great potential in the Stags Leap District and founded Cliff Lede Vineyards. One year later, the southwest facing hillside just above the Silverado Trail which became his Poetry Vineyard. In 2009, he expanded to include cooler-climate varieties from the Anderson Valley in purchasing the Savoy Vineyard and the creation of a new brand, FEL, named for his mother, Florence Elsie Lede.

I will fully admit that I was enamored by the sensational new lineup from the 2019 vintage. I just adored their 2019 Cliff Lede ‘Poetry’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 99) which borders on perfection. Silky and rich, this is a sensational new wine. which is incredibly soft and has insanely good length. The core of blue and dark fruits is so impressive here. I love the new 2018 Cliff Lede ‘To Kalon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 98) which deftly showcases this world class vineyard. This Cabernet will surely live on for decades to come. These are just sensational new wines for any serious collector of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Learn more about this outstanding producer at https://cliffledevineyards.com/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Cliff Lede.


2019 Cliff Lede ‘Stags Leap District’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Stags Leap District’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a beautiful effort that is sourced from their estate vineyard at the base of Diamond Mountain in the western portion of the Calistoga appellation. Soft and generous on the mouth, this reveals tobacco leaf and chocolate flavors alongside boysenberry and hints of graphite on the palate. Drink 2021-2031- 92


2019 Cliff Lede ‘High Fidelity’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘High Fidelity’ Red Wine is an enticing blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc that were aged in French oak barrels, 66% of which was new, for twenty-two months. Thew wine shows a silky mouthfeel with layers of violets, black tea, graphite, exotic spices and dark currant jelly. Gorgeous now, this has at least another decade to go. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2019 Cliff Lede ‘Poetry’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Poetry’ is a stunning new wine by Cliff Lede. Designed by David Abreu, The Poetry Vineyard, carved into a steep west-facing hillside, reaches from the highest elevations of the Stags Leap District appellation to the valley floor. Once on the nose this takes on layers of mocha, pencil lead, creme de cassis and anise tones that all sing in unison. The palate is utterly seamless with a silky texture and incredible sense of elegance. Gorgeous creme de violette, black currant jelly, dark chocolate shavings and suggestions of Turkish coffee all brilliantly combine on the palate, with incredible length. Try to resist this beautiful wine for at least a few more years. Drink 2023-2045- 99


2019 Cliff Lede ‘Roundabout Midnight’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Roundabout Midnight’ was stored in French oak barrels (80%) new for twenty-one months before bottling. The nose offers seriously good range from violets and black currants to coffee grounds and shades of dark chocolate. Fresh and vibrant with plenty of lift and tension, this effortlessly glides across the palate, delivering copious dark fruit and tobacco flavors alongside tilled loamy soils. Gorgeous to savor in its youth, this has another fifteen to twenty years of life in front of it. Drink 2021-2036- 95


2019 Cliff Lede ‘Songbook’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Songbook’ was stored for 21 months elevage in 66% new French oak prior to bottling. The Cabernet really needs a few hours of air to fully get going. Once aroused this reveals sensational aromatics of Asian spices, black currant cordial, mocha and anise tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is soft and seamless, giving an air of elegance, yet showing plenty of power and concentration. Gorgeous to savor now, this has another twenty years of life in front of it. Drink 2021-2041- 96


2019 Cliff Lede ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- One of the famed sites in the Napa Valley, the ‘Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’ was given slightly more new French oak (91%) for 21 months before bottling. Showing off its deep core, and needing an hour decant to be fully expressive, a powerful nose of sweet pipe tobacco and creme de cassis  are woven together with smoky minerals, dusty soils and shades of blackberry compote with black rose florals. The palate is utterly thrilling with its opulence and silky texture that make this glide throughout the drinking experience. Enjoy this sensational wine for another twenty years. Drink 2021-2041- 98

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Great photo of Grassi founder Mark Grassi.

Grassi

January 31, 2022

One of the outstanding wine projects in Napa, Grassi was the vision of Mark Grassi who built custom homes, wineries and estates in the Napa Valley. In 1999 he and his wife, Jami, acquired 14 acres on a site in Napa that lies on a bench above the valley floor at the bottom of Soda Canyon Road below the Atlas Peak Appellation, as the vineyard has many small to medium sized cobblestones. Mark’s vision became reality with Grassi Wine Company, founded in 2001. Mark nurtured the vineyard to its first commercial release in 2005 and continues to oversee production. Mark and Jamie’s daughter, Cassandra, serves as marketing director while Pete Richmond is farming specialist. Miguel Luna who has worked in the Napa Valley for more than 20 years serves as viticulturist. 

Miguel also makes these beautiful wines with the talented Maayan Koschitzky. I adored the range of wines by Grassi. I am enamored with the tense, concentrated and nervy 2018 Grassi ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which is dense and chewy with a gorgeous sense of finesse. Learn more about this outstanding boutique winery at http://grassiwines.com and here are the sensational new wines by Grassi.


2019 Grassi ‘Valentina’s Block’ Sparkling Wine- Made from Ribolla Gialla grapes, the wine was aged for six months in barrels and given zero dosage. Right away this sparkling wine shows nutty and hay tones on the nose alongside shades of Macadamia nut that all meld in the glass. Refined and polished with a soft mousse and silky mouthfeel, this delivers plenty of lemon oil alongside salted almonds and shades of green cantaloupe on the palate. Only 120 cases made. Drink 2021-2031- 93


2019 Grassi ‘Valentina’s Block’ Ribolla Gialla- Sourced from cuttings that came from Friuli, this exudes class with its nutty and early undertones alongside beeswax and shades of honeydew melon on the nose. The palate is very fresh and lively with bright acidity. Silky on the mouth, this delivers a beautiful texture with layers of melon, lemon rind, and stony minerals on the palate. Refined and seriously good now, this will continue to pick up nutty and earthy tones as it ages. Drink 2021-2027- 93


2018 Grassi Sangiovese- This vintage was sourced from Antinori planted vines at the top of Atlas Peak, as this saw only 10% new French oak before bottling. Silky tannins combine with ripe red cherry and teaberry tones alongside garrigue undercurrents. The silky texture and wonderful length impresses as this beautiful wine is singing now at the three year mark. Cellar this beauty for another fifteen years. Drink 2021-2036- 94


2018 Grassi ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 Grassi ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from 25 year old vines from Soda Canyon. Aromatically intense, this shows off violets that collide with blueberry compote, tar, and coffee ground tones. The palate is very fresh and vibrant with salty undertones and a beautiful mouthfeel. Ripe dark currant flavors combine with smoky minerals, tobacco leaf, espresso bean and loamy soils on the palate. Dense and rich, with really nice restraint and finesse, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve well for another twenty years. Drink 2021-2041- 96

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Here we have the sensational new lineup by Cristom Vineyards.

Cristom Vineyards

January 29, 2022

Today we share one of the greats out of Oregon. Cristom founder Paul Gerrie hired Cristom’s winemaker Steve Doerner and vineyard manager Mark Feltz in 1992 (Mark retired in 2017) and since that time Cristom has crafted world class Pinot Noir wines. These are wines that age gracefully — at times for decades. Gerrie named his four estate vineyards after the four females of his family, Eileen, Jessie, Louise and Marjorie. Gerrie's son, Tom, now leads the company. Steve Doerner had a previous stint at Calera prior to coming to Cristom in the early 90s. A world traveler, Doerner has made world class Pinot Noir at Cristom and now helps oversee production alongside winemakers Daniel Estrin and Tom Gerrie.

For many years Cristom has been producing a fantastic cuvee that blends the vineyards, their Mt. Jefferson Cuvée. This years 2019 Cristom ‘Mt. Jefferson Cuvee’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) is a Downright killer value once again. Even better is the sinfully good 2018 Cristom ‘Paul Gerrie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is deep and concentrated with plenty of finesse. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.cristomvineyards.com and here are my reviews of the new releases by Cristom.


2019 Cristom ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- Soft and generous on the mouth, this unveils ripe honeydew melon flavors alongside copious minerals and lighter pear, and green papaya tones. Finishing long, with a bright sense of salinity, savor in the short-term while the brightness impresses. Drink 2021-2026- 92


2019 Cristom ‘Louise Vneyard’ Chardonnay- I have never tasted this single vineyard bottling from this site that was first planted back in 1993. Nutmeg dusted brioche and roasted hazelnut with earthy tones all fill the nose. The palate is fresh with gobs of lip-smacking acidity. Layers of salted French bread, lemon zest and kumquat rind all combine with lighter damp earthy accents on the palate. Finishing long, this is a sensational and bright style of Chardonnay that will cellar well over the next eight years. Drink 2021-2029- 93


2018 Cristom ‘Mt. Jefferson Cuvee’ Pinot Noir-  Despite the obvious coolness of the vintage, the 2019 ‘Mt. Jefferson Cuvee’ is not short on weight. With plenty of freshness,  tons of astringent red fruits greet you, with hints of blood orange zest, pine needles and suggestions of loamy soils on the palate. The nice dusting of salinity adds to the enjoyment as this beautiful bottling is great to enjoy in its youth and surely will cellar well for another eight plus years. What a wine for the price! Drink 2021-2029- 92


2018 Cristom ‘Paul Gerrie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This outstanding 2019 Pinot Noir was named after Paul Gerrie, as this chewy Pinot Noir underwent 50% whole cluster fermentation before bottling. Beautiful sour red fruits collide with red rose petals and peat moss aromatically.  The palate is fresh and vibrant with incredible acidity and really good weight. Red cherry candy, stony minerals and forest floor with black truffle shavings all brilliantly meld together on the palate. Finishing very long with red fruits and minerals, this outstanding effort will be best consumed over the next fifteen years. Drink 2021-2035- 94


2018 Cristom ‘Eileen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Eileen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is an homage to Cristom’s co-founder, Eileen Gerrie. Planted in 1997 this site encompasses 16.61 acres of Pinot Noir plantings. Aromatically quite intense this moves from red fruits into dark fruits with baking spices, particularly cardamom taking center stage.The palate is silky and refined with soft tannins that line a core of pretty red fruits, alongside Satsuma orange zest and peat moss tones. Salty and savory, with bright acidity, this beautiful wine has yet to fully hit its stride, but has massive potential. Drink 2021-2035- 94

2018 Cristom ‘Marjorie VIneyard’ Pinot Noir- Really good even so young, the outstanding 2019 ‘Marjorie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous effort by Steve Doerner. Light smoky and flinty tones combine with baking spices, bright red fruits and red rose petals on the nose.  The palate shows plenty of sour red fruits alongside orange rind, tobacco and freshly tilled soils. Finishing long, this outstanding effort really needs an hour in the decanter if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2021-2035- 93


2018 Cristom ‘Louise Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- One of the older Pinot  Noir sites in the Willamette Valley, the ’Louise Vineyard’ was planted back in 1993, and was named after Cristom winegrower and owner Tom Gerrie’s great-grandmother, Louise Dinkelspiel.  Once on the nose this takes on pretty red florals alongside Bing cherry and hints of wintergreen. Showing plenty of depth, concentration and length, the wine is a beautiful joyride spanning a range of red fruits woven together with smoky minerals, citrus rind and damp earthy tones. Finishing very long this beautiful 2019 Pinot Noir will surely cellar well for another fifteen years or more. Drink 2021-2035- 94


2018 Cristom ‘Jessie Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Planted back in 1994 ‘Jessie Vineyard’ is a steep, east-facing hillside site that was named after winegrower-owner Tom Gerrie’s great-grandmother Jessie Sommers. The aromas coming from the glass are quite literally a spice rack, as pretty guava and Yakima cherry tones collide with the spicy undercurrents.The palate is refined with a beautiful texture and good length. Layers of red fruits and citrus rind combine with damp earth and stony undertones on the palate. Finishing very long, this glorious effort is great to savor right now and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2021-2036- 94


2019 Cristom ‘Canary Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from a site first planted back in 1994, this 2019 Pinot Noir leads with teaberry and red raspberry tones alongside damp earth and tobacco leaf aromatically. The palate is soft with silly tannins that line a pretty core of red fruit flavors alongside shades of blood orange zest and wet stone. Drink 2021-2036- 94


2019 Cristom ‘Meredith Mitchell Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located in the McMinnville section of the Willamette Valley, the ‘Meredith Mitchell Vineyard’ is planted to own-rooted Pommard clone Pinot Noir vines. Very soft on the mouth with refined tannins, this unveils bright red fruit flavors alongside suggestions of baking spice dusted orange rind and tobacco leaf with loamy soils. Drink 2021-2033- 93


2019 Cristom ‘Arcus Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- One of the famed sites in the Dundee Hills, the low-yielding ‘Arcus Vineyard’ was planted back in the 1970s. The palate is generous and silky with a beautiful range of wild blackberry and red raspberry flavors alongside suggestions of Mandarin orange zest and a dusting of tilled volcanic soils. This stunning and elegant effort really needs another year to fully amalgamate. Drink 2022-2038- 95

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Here we have the gorgeous new 2021 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 92)

Long Shadows 'Julia's Dazzle' Rose

January 29, 2022

Rose season is in front of us. What has become a national phenomenon, the Rose craze full has hit our nation, with seemingly every producer adding a Rose to their lineup. For many years Long Shadows has sought to craft a complex, intentional and delicious Rose to add to their lineup. For many years the Pinot Gris was selected from The Benches Vineyard which is a warmer site but winemaker Gilles Nicault has sought to choose sites now that are cooler and come from older vine Pinot Gris. 

I've tasted every vintage of the Long Shadows Julia’s Dazzle and I can clearly say that this wine has been one of the most consistently great Rose wines out of Washington. This is Rose that has plenty of stuffing but always maintains a wonderful sense of verve — great for when the weather warms up. 

I am the first critic to taste the 2021 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 92) which I slightly prefer to the excellent 2020 edition. This is lithe and polished Rose that has just the faintest touch of sweetness and is simply a steal at the price. This is another masterclass by the talented Gilles Nicault who is one of the great winemakers in the Pacific Northwest. Cheers to warmer days ahead!  Learn more at longshadows.com and here is my review of the 2021 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose. 


2021 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose- Crafted entirely from Pinot Gris grapes from Columbia Valley Vineyards, this was given just a touch of residual sugar (.3G/L). Beautiful now even so youthful, this wine was bottled in earl. December. Right away beautiful Mandarin orange rind tones combine with wet stone, honeydew melon and watermelon flavors on the palate with a silky texture. With the faintest kiss of sweetness, and showing gobs of finesse, this beautiful wine is singing in its youth and will surely hit its high octave for another five to seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 92

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Here we have the gorgeous 1988 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte.

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte

January 28, 2022

I love the great wines of Bordeaux, especially those that can age. A famed producer in the Pessac-Leognan appellation and located south of the city of Bordeaux in Martillac, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is a house with serious history which dates back to the 14th century. It was at that time that the house of Verrier Du Boscq who planted vines on a gravelly plateau named Lafitte already in 1365. In 1720, it was bought by the Scotsman Georges Smith who added his name and also who built the manor house of the property. Today the modern facility focuses on biodiversity in the vineyards. Most of the vineyard production focuses on their red wines (67 hectares planted to red varietals compared to 11 hectares planted to white varietals).

White wines from Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte might be some of the finest of their kind for the price. I hav always bee impressed how both red and white wines from this house age. I recently had a chance to revisit the gorgeous 1988 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte (OB, 93) which is in a glorious spot right now, moving into tertiary tones. 1988 was a very good vintage in Bordeaux and this wine has stood the test of time marvelously. Learn more about these famed wines at https://www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/en/home/ and here are my tasting notes from the glorious 1988 Smith Haut Lafitte.


1988 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte- For years I have admired the cellaring potential of these wines and the 1988 Smith Haut Lafitte certainly is a brilliant showing from this very good vintage in Bordeaux. Right away this provides alluring red florals alongside graphite, tar, wild mushroom and lighter boysenberry notes aromatically. The palate is silky and refined with soft tannins that frame a pretty core of wild blackberry and huckleberry flavors alongside a brilliant sense of tension and damp earth tones. This is really singing right now, so don’t be afraid to grab this from your cellar. Drink 2022-2032- 93

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Fullerton

January 27, 2022

An outstanding winery which was founded back in 2012, Fullerton Wines is led by their talented head winemaker Alex Fullerton. Alex makes a great group of value wines under his Three Otters label and crafts a wide range of high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that embody good value. Formerly working for Penner-Ash, as well as Drylands in New Zealand, Alex began making his own wine out of his garage in 2011. 

I recently had the chance to sample the range of new wines by Fullerton and they were very good across the board. The 2018 Fullerton ‘Luxe’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) is delightful to consume now and has some brilliant aging potential with its silky texture and bright acidity. Even better is the sinfully good 2018 Fullerton ‘Tenebris’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous, showing great tension and plenty of weight from this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley. Learn more about these wines at http://www.fullertonwines.com Here are the great new releases from Fullerton Wines:

 

2018 Fullerton ‘Lux’ Chardonnay- Really good to enjoy right now the 2018 ‘Lux’ Chardonnay is an awesome new wine by Fullerton. The combination of tension, texture and mouthfeel is simply awesome, as this delivers bright lemon zest that combines with minerals, wild mushroom and Gravenstein apple flavors. Every bit delicious in its youth, the ‘Lux’ Chardonnay will cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92


2018 Fullerton ‘Five Faces’ Pinot Noir- What is a striking value, the 2018 Fullerton ‘Five Faces’ Pinot Noir was aged in a small portion of new French oak barrels for 11 months prior to bottling. Despite the lack of new oak, the wine is beautifully textured, displaying good verve with tart red fruits that dance with minerals and peat moss undercurrents.  Drink 2022-2029- 91


2019 Fullerton ‘Bella Vida Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Located above the town of Dundee, the ‘Bella Vida Vineyard’ is set on ancient Jory soils. Showing beautiful finesse, the wine unveils medium-bodied Yakima cherry and strawberry flavors alongside wet gravel, wild mushroom and red rose water. Complex and delicious, this beautifully speaks to the vintage and will surely cellar well for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92


2018 Fullerton ‘Bjornson Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- I’ll admit that this is my first soiree into this vineyard which is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. The nose is super high-toned with red rose petals and shades of orange blossom that combine with the core of red fruits. The palate is refined and elegant with pretty red fruits that dance with blood orange zest, peat moss and baking spices. Nicely textured, this has the length and acidity to last for at least another ten years. Drink 2020-2032- 92


2018 Fullerton ‘Bennett Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Bennett Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is 100% Pommard clonal selection from this site set on Bellpine soils. Deeply colored once in the glass, this unveils black tea and Asian spices that collide with Shitakki mushroom and wild blackberry tones aromatically. The palate is soft and generous with good tension that holds the core of red and dark fruits in place. This has both the acidity and stuffing to hold for well over a decade. Drink 2022-2032- 92


2018 Fullerton ‘Tenebris’ Pinot Noir- The 2018 ‘Tenebris’ is a barrel selection wine that utilizes clonal selections 113, 114, 667, 777, Pommard and Wadenswil. This is quite simply a gorgeous effort that really needs an hour of air to show its stuff. Once aroused this yields a gorgeous array of bright red fruits with blood orange zest, summer sausage and peat moss aromas that brilliantly combine. The weight and richness of the wine is apparent, as linzer torte notes mingle well with smoky minerals, damp earth and orange blossom flavors. Fresh and full-bodied, this excellent effort will live on for another fifteen years to come. Drink 2022-2037- 93

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Great photo of Tony and Michelle Soter.

Soter

January 27, 2022

Today we presents one of the famed Willamette Valley estates. Founded by Tony and Michelle Soter, the Soter 'Mineral Springs Ranch’ is a 240-acre oak savanna in the center of the Willamette Valley. The vineyard is certified biodynamic and was planted to 15 acres of Pinot Noir in 2002 and 2003, and an additional 15 acres in 2006. Two acres of Chardonnay were included in the 2006 plantings which are used for their sparkling wine production. Small extension blocks have been added over the years to grow their total production to 40 acres.

Having visited the winery several years back, it is a simply gorgeous site to sample their beautiful range of wines. Chris Fladwood serves as winemaker, having a storied career which included several years in the Army, until dedicating his civilian life to winemaking. Chris has worked harvests in New Zealand as well as Bordeaux. He became cellar master in 2009 and has worked his way to the winemaker position. He has crafted some beautiful wines at many different price points. 

Soter has gained national attention for their sparkling wines. The new wines were from the 2019 vintage and bot were really good. I adored the 2019 Soter ‘Estates’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is fresh with a fleshy texture and really nice complexity. Find out more about this famed Oregon producer at http://sotervineyards.com/ Here are the beautiful new wines by Soter Vineyards. 


2019 Soter ‘Estates’ Chardonnay- The 2019 Soter ‘Estates’ Chardonnay is a fresh and polished effort that speaks to the quality obtained from this great vintage for white wines. Bright pear and green papaya tones combine with toasty brioche and smoky minerals on the palate. The gratifying finish adds to the enjoyment as this is highly refined Chardonnay that has some good aging potential. Drink 2022-2032-  92


2019 Soter ‘Estates’ Pinot Noir- This medium-bodied Pinot Noir is now the second edition of this wine which is sourced from vineyards in the Eola-Amity Hills and Ribbon Ridge AVAs. Ripe pomegranate and guava puree flavors combine with freshly tilled soils and suggestions Shitakki mushroom on the palate. Really good to enjoy now, this will surely have another eight to ten years in front of it. Drink 2022-2030- 91

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Here we have the sensational 2019 VIADER Red Wine (OB, 98)

VIADER

January 27, 2022

Certainly one of the ‘wow factor’ Napa properties, VIADER is the brainchild of Delia Viader, who had the brilliant idea to plant grapes in uncharted waters on Howell Mountain. For years Delia only made one wine, a Bordeaux style blend, since 1986. Holding a PhD from Sorbonne University in Paris, founding winemaker Delia Viader now collaborates with her son, Alan, to make their wines which are entirely sourced from their estate vineyard on Howell Mountain. A remarkable story, Delia stated VIADER while raising four children on her own. Since starting the winery she was met with some incredible critical acclaim for her pretty style of wine that typically incorporates a large amount of Cabernet Franc.

Delia has achieved incredible success since starting in the mid-80s as she models her style of wine towards the great wines of Bordeaux, focusing on structure, balance and finesse rather than primary fruit qualities. It is amazing how well these wines age, as I have had several bottles in the past year going back to the early 2000s. These wines are still flying high with plenty of rich dark fruits and acidity. Delia’s son, Alan, served as VIADER vineyard manager since 2002 while studying winemaking at UC Davis. He has been lead winemaker at VIADER since 2006 and works with Delia on all wines. Although it has only been produced for a few years, the VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine, which has Syrah blend into Bordeaux varietals, has been a remarkably consistent, very novel wine that is really all its own. I adored the new 2019 VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine (OB, 96) which is dense and chewy with some massive aging potential considering the variety and place. I am fully amazed by the thrilling 2019 VIADER Red Wine (OB, 98) which is undoubtedly one of the great VIADER bottlings that I have ever tasted. Seamless, dense and pillowy, this sensational effort really needs a long decant if enjoying young — and will surely go on for another twenty years. Learn more about this storied Napa winery at https://viader.com Here are the beautiful new wines by VIADER. 


2019 VIADER ‘Black Label’ Red Wine- A truly one of a kind blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah with 22% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Petit Verdot, this unveils heady aromatics of graphite and black licorice that combine with violets, black olive and suggestions of loganberry preserves that all sing in unison. The palate is plush, deep and inviting with gobs of freshness and a wonderfully gratifying viscosity that work in tandem. Firm tannins hold in place a rich core of dark fruits with shades of cocoa dusted black cherry and smoky undertones on the palate. Delicious and decadent to enjoy in its youth, this has another fifteen to twenty years in front of it. Give this at least an hour in the decanter before enjoying, Drink 2022-2039- 96


2019 VIADER Red Wine - A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc, this truly needs two hours in the decanter prior to enjoying. Once aroused, this complex edition might be one of the great VIADER wines ever produced. Seamless and sinfully good on the mid-palate, with textual opulence, this delivers plenty of wet stone character alongside creme de cassis, mocha, tar, anise and exotic spices on the palate. Velvety tannins frame everything marvelously as this finishes exceedingly long. If you love Napa with terroir and balance, do not look any further. Drink 2022-2042- 98

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