Davis Bynum

Today we share one of the outstanding Sonoma producers who is celebrating 50 years in the industry. Back in 1973  Davis Bynum began their journey using Rochioli Vineyard grapes and helping establish the Russian River Valley as a world-class location for Pinot. Davis Bynum was later sold to the Klein family who run Rodney Strong in 2007.

Winemaker Greg Morthole started working for Rodney Strong Vineyards in 2005, when he accepted a job as lab director. He has been Davis Bynum winemaker for two decades now. I loved the new wines. Check out a killer value, the 2023 ‘River West Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is sensational and easy to find as over 8K cases are made. Learn more at https://www.davisbynum.com and here are my reviews of the new Davis Bynum wines.

2023 Davis Bynum ‘River West Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Located in the Middle Reach, the River West Vineyard neighbors Flowers. Stored in 35% new French oak, this offers a gorgeous nose of honeysuckle and shades of poached pear alongside suggestions of wet stone. The palate is rich and dense with a terrific mouthfeel and great sense of weight and length. Amazing there is 12K cases of this wine — what a wine! Drink 2025-2033- 92

2023 Davis Bynum ‘Dutton Origin Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2023 ‘Dutton Origin Vineyard’ comes from this location in southern Sonoma set on Goldridge soils and clay. Vines here were planted in the 1970s.  Stored in 65% new French oak, this deliver marzipan and toasty oak alongside shades of papaya and white peach. The palate is dense and delicious with serious texture and verve, with outstanding length. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2023 Davis Bynum ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 Davis Bynum ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir was stored in roughly 35% new French oak and comes from eight different vineyards. The nose shows off red florals with cola, cranberry and shades of cardamom. This has amazing Sonoma character with the cran-cola and orange zest notes on the palate. Well-done! Drink 2025-2033- 92

2023 Davis Bynum ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2023 Davis Bynum ‘Rochioli Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous wine that shows off red rose petals and scorched earth notes alongside shades of salty soils and wet rock. The palate is rich and viscous with great concentration and underlying tension. Rich and viscous, enjoy this downright delicious bottling now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2037- 95

2023 Davis Bynum ‘Bacigalupi’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 Pinot Noir was puncheon fermented and shows gorgeous dark florals on the nose with cola, sassafras and shades of orange peel. The palate is plush and concentrated with serious texture, weight and verve. Dense and delicious, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2025-2037- 94

Chosen Family Wines

Today we share one of the outstanding houses in Oregon. Chosen Family is great brand that started with former NBA star Channing Frye. Frye has utilized the winemaking skills of top winemakers such as Jackson Holstein, Chase Renton and Thomas Savre. NBA all-star Kevin Love joined the business a few years back. Love is an Oregon basketball legend, who is still playing for the Miami Heat. Frye is deeply passionate about wine and has a great knowledge of Oregon wine.

I love the new Chosen Family wines.  Check out the 2023 ‘C&K Select’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is neatly textured and shows outstanding flavor density from this warm vintage. Learn more about these great new wines at chosenfamilywines.com Here are my reviews of the new Chosen Family wines.

2023 Chosen Family ‘C&K Select’ Chardonnay- The excellent 2023 Chosen Family ‘C&K Select’ Chardonnay comes from the Ladd Hill and Hollis Vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. It is wonderfully nervy with Meyer lemon zest, shortbread and mango flavors alongside copious minerals. The combination of finesse and flavor density really makes this sing. Drink 2025-2032- 93

2023 Chosen Family ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- A stunning new wine made by Jackson Holstein of Granville Wine Company, the 2023 Chosen Family ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ has amazing earthy accents with tilled salty soils and shades of black truffle shavings that frame a beautiful core of black and red fruits. Enjoy this complex and delicious bottling now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2035- 95

2023 Chosen Family ‘C&K Select’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 Chosen Family ‘C&K Select’ Pinot Noir was sourced from the Dundee Hills and Chehalem Mountain AVAs. It offers beautiful red florals alongside cran-orange notes on the nose, with hints of fresh sage and wet rock. The palate is fresh and finesse-driven with plenty of salty minerals. Drink 2025-2034- 93

J. Lohr

Today we share a California house that is synonymous with value. J. Lohr has a great history in the wine industry. Starting in the late 1960s, Jerry Lohr began searching for a great location plant his first vineyard. Originally raised on a South Dakota farm, Jerry had a background in agriculture and chose the Central Coast, which was an experimental region at the time. Jerry has created an amazing success story with his winery, J. Lohr. While J. Lohr has gained a nationwide reputation for rich red wines, their white wine portfolio is also has some outstanding values.

The red wines by J. Lohr were also excellent and displayed wonderful depth and concentration. An outstanding Petite Sirah release is their 2018 J. Lohr ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which is a dense and burly effort that is nearly impossible to resist right now. Even better was the 2016 J. Lohr ‘Cuvee St. E’ Red Wine (OB, 93) which is muscular showing blue fruits and espresso bean notes. Learn more about this outstanding lineup at https://www.jlohr.com Here are the outstanding new wines by J. Lohr. 

2023 J. Lohr ‘Hilltop Paso Robles’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Brooding in the glass, the 2023 ‘Paso Robles’ offers espresso bean and blackberry compote on the nose alongside shades of black licorice. This comes off juicy and delicious with forward red and dark fruits alongside scorched earth notes. Drink 2025-2031- 90

2023 J. Lohr ‘Tower Road’ Petite Sirah- The 2023 ‘Tower Road’ Petite Sirah is a glass-staining purple. Tar, huckleberry pie and shades of dark chocolate shavings with graphite all combine on the palate. Delicious and showing excellent viscosity, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2017 J.Lohr ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Inky once in the glass, the ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows a downright opulent mouthfeel. Firm tannins hold in a massive core of dark fruits alongside tobacco leaf, graphite and espresso bean tones. Gorgeous in its youth, this dense and inky effort will provide drinking enjoyment over the next decade or more. Drink 2021-2032- 92

2023 J. Lohr ‘Cuvee Pau’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Cuvee Pau’ is inspired by the wines of Pauillac and is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant. It is refined and elegant with red bell pepper, anise, dark currants and pencil lead notes alongside sandalwood tones. Rich and layered, enjoy over the next ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 93

2023 J. Lorh ‘Cuvee St. E’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Cuvee St. E’ is a beautiful rendition of this wine that is inspired by the greats from Saint-Emillion. Very dark and perfumed,  this delivers dark florals with anise, cassis and shades of creme de violette. The palate is plush and elegant, with great herbal accents alongside a generous core of black and blue fruits. This is seriously good to enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 93

2023 J. Lohr ‘Cuvee Pom’ Red Wine- The 2023 ‘Cuvee Pom’ is a gorgeous rendition of this wine, loaded with bright red florals, espresso bean and milk chocolate. The palate is lush and elegant with a great sense of richness, texture and underlying tension. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten years to come. Drink 2025-2035- 92

Maison Jussiaume

Today we share one of the great houses in Southern Oregon. Did you know that great Oregon bubbles comes from this area? Maison Jussiaume was founded back in 2005 by Jean-Michel Jussiaume. The founder grew up farming Muscadet and migrated to Southern Oregon to make wines for Del Rio Vineyards. He saw the potential of making excellent sparkling wines from this vineyard that had old vine Chardonnay planted. Wines from his house come from massive, 320 acre vineyard that I have visited. The location is nestled between the mountains and the Rogue River, with elevations ranging from 700 feet to 1700 feet. The soils are mostly alluvial and well-drained, and the high elevation leads to incredible diurnal shifts.

2020 was a very hot vintage so I have no idea how Jussiaume was able to craft these wines with serious nerve. I love the 2020 Maison Jussaiume ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 92) which is seriously good with a refined mousse and great sense of body. Learn more at https://www.maisonjussiaume.com and here are my reviews of the new Maison Jussiaume wines.

2020 Maison Jussiaume ‘Brut Nature’ Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine- The outstanding 2020 ‘Brut Nature’ was picked before the fires of the vintage. It is a killer bottling with seashell and freshly cut limes alongside copious minerals and a refined mousse on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2020 Maison Jussiaume Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine-An awesome wine from 2020, the 2020 Blanc de Blancs comes off rich and fat on the tongue. Diatomaceous earth and copious salty minerals fill the palate alongside kumquat rind and Japanese pear. This is seriously good right now — and has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2025-2033- 92

Quilceda Creek

Yesterday I had the great opportunity to come back to Quilceda Creek and taste their pre-release 2023 wines. I arrived and tasted all of their Cabernets as well as their incredible 2023 ‘CVR’ Red Wine that has to be up there with the finest ‘CVRs’ made.

2023 was a warm vintage that had few major heat spikes. So far the wines I have tasted from 2023 have great depth and concentration, with more body and less tension than the ‘22s. 2023 is clearly a better overall vintage for Bordeaux style wines in Washington than ’22 — a cooler, later-ripening vintage that has a lot more variation in terms of overall quality for Bordeaux varietals.

No Merlot was made at Quilceda Creek in 2023 as they felt that no stand alone Merlot could be made. The instead blended Merlot into their ‘CVR’ as the Merlot and the ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc add to the impressive floral character in this wine.

I’ve tried every vintage of these wines and I can confidently say that these are the best wines that have ever been made at this historic Washington house. The overall quality was nothing short of insanely good. In terms of flavor density, flavor complexity and varietal character Quilceda Creek stands alone in this state for Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the first time I have ever awarded perfect 100 point scores for four or more wines at any house in North America. The four Cabernets are actually quite different and would make for a thrilling side by side for a collector to see the similarities and differences between them.

There is little question that Paul Golitzin is one of the great North American winemakers. Golitzin took over winemaking for Quilceda more than two decades ago. I have been fortunate enough to taste every vintage of Quilceda Creek. Golitzin got his start in wine when he was very young, and was particularly inspired following a trip to France at age 15. Mentored by his father Alex Golitzin and his great Uncle Andre Tchelistcheff, Paul took what he had learned and developed his own style that has been the most consistently great Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington State. The hiring of Mark Kaigas in 2022 has shown to be a great move for Golitzin and his team. Formerly the winemaker at Colgin, Kaigas works closely with President and Director of Winemaking Paul Golitzin and Vineyard Manager Dan Nickolaus.

I think you are going to be blown away with the 2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) which is every bit as good as the ’22 and ’21. It is a show-stopping wine that is velvety and smooth, with a killer floral profile. Every Cabernet lover is going to be enamored by the scintillating 2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 100) which is a hedonistic beast of a wine that really does need another year or two in the cellar. Your patience will be rewarded! Learn more about these incredible wines at quilcedacreek.com and here are my reviews of the sensational 2023 pre-release Cabernet Sauvignon wines by Quilceda Creek.

2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon mirrors the blend from ’22, with 90% coming from the Champoux Vineyard and the remainder sourced from the Mach One Vineyard. Stored in all new French oak barrels once on the nose this takes on creme de violette, and graphite notes alongside beautiful purple rose petals, walnut and shades of Black Forest cake. The palate is weightless and seamless throughout the drinking experience, as this has immense depth, and flavor complexity and flavor density with serious verve and length. A complete wine, enjoy this mesmerizing Cabernet Sauvignon over the next twenty years. If savoring now be sure to give this several hours in the decanter. Drink 2026-2046- 100

2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Palengat’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘Palengat’ comes from the Mach One Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. This 100% variety wine utilizes clone 685. The nose is uniquely floral with black rose and shades of black licorice, sandalwood and tar notes alongside wafts of Arabica bean and dark chocolate shavings. The palate is impeccably balanced and elegant with refined tannins that frame a glorious core of black and blue fruits alongside espresso bean, beef drippings and rocky nuances. This has to be the finest edition of this wine ever crafted. Explore this beauty over the next two decades. Drink 2026-2046- 100

2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Tchelistcheff’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The spellbinding 2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Tchelistcheff’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Mach One Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. Stored in all new French oak, this delivers a concentrated melange of cassis, Oud, anise and ripe fig notes with bay leaf, salted wet rock and shades of blueberry pie on the palate. This comes off ultra-refined on the tongue, seamlessly gliding throughout the drinking experience. With good tension and nerve, enjoy this heady, viscous gem now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2026-2046- 100

2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 Quilceda Creek ‘Galitzine’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a powerful, massive and muscular edition of this wine that is up there with the finest ‘Galitzine’ bottlings in my memory. Incredibly intense on the nose this shows off a cornucopia of dark florals that combine with fresh sage, scorched earth and blueberry compote. The plate leaves you breathless as this is both elegant and insanely powerful — your velvet glove in an iron first. A total heavyhitter, enjoy this mesmerizing bottling over the next twenty plus years to come. Drink 2026-2050- 100

Cellar Selection: 2017 FIGGINS Red Wine

Sunday was a big day for sports for me as I was able to watch both the Seahawks and Arsenal. This meant that I needed a proper wine to take in all that television. I reached in my cellar and pulled out a 2017 FIGGINS Red Wine, which comes from what was generally a good vintage for red wines.

This was a strange year that had a lot of high level smoke. The smoke didn’t always impact wines but did impact some. But the great mitigating factor in 2017 was that the high smoke in the air actually kept the sunlight from damaging the vines. 90 degree days could have easily been 100 degree days without the high smoke.

In the end, 2017 was really great for whites and was generally good for reds — particularly top producers like FIGGINS. The FIGGINS Red Wine is a proprietary red blend that changes each year. It comes from the Figgins Estate Vineyardwhich is a high elevation site planted to Bordeaux varieties. The wine usually is quite tanninc and needs several years in the cellar to unwind. It is a deep and concentrated blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

Over the years the Petit Verdot has been increasing in the blend. That is because the PV from this vineyard is arguably the finest in the Northwest. PV from this site has amazing chocolate and coffee ground flavors with green herbal accents.

Learn more about this special winery at https://www.figginswine.com/2022-estate-red-wine and here is my review of the cinredible 2017 FIGGINS Red Wine.

2017 FIGGINS Red Wine- The 2017 FIGGINS Red Wine is a sumptuous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It was stored in mostly new French oak barrels for 22 months before bottling. It comes off marvelously herbal on the nose with green peppercorns, green bell pepper and bay leaf notes alongside deep cassis and Black Forest cake accents. The palate really needs about 30 minutes in the glass to fully extend its viscosity. Concentrated black and blue fruits parade with a graphite and Arabica bean edge on the palate. This is a total stunner that is not only delicious but highly novel stuff to enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2040- 97

Grapes of Spain

Founded back in 2001, Grapes of Spain, Inc. imports wines exclusively from Spain and currently represents a huge range of producers with a portfolio of more than 100 wines from all corners of Spain. All of the wines are new to the U.S. market and are from family winegrowers and that focus only on high quality and limited production. 

Aurelio Cabestrero, owner, is originally from Madrid, Spain. He worked at Madrid's Cafe de Oriente Restaurant for three years before coming to the US to work as Sommelier for Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC. He worked at Taberna del Alabardero for three years and also worked as Sommelier at Marcel's in Washington DC before pursuing his passion to import Spanish wines 

Aurelio has also won the Ruinart 1993 prize as the Best Sommelier in Spain, Best young Sommelier in 1994 by Wine and Gastronomic Magazine and came in second place at the National Sopexa Competition of French Wines and Spirits 1994. He is also founding member of Madrid Association of Sommeliers.

They have the amazing wines of San Roman and check out the sensational 2021 Bodegas San Roman Toro (OB, 95) which is Toro at its finest. Learn more at grapesofspain.com and here are my notes on the new wines by Grapes of Spain. 

Adegas Gran Vinum

2024 Esencia Divina Albarino- Another amazing and broad-shouldered edition of this wine, the 2024 Esencia Divina comes from Albariño vines roughly 50 years of age. This was aged in stainless steel tanks and spent time on the lees, offering amazing sea salt character with rich melon and tropical fruits. A lengthy finish completes this beauty that will cellar well for another eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2024 Gran Vinum ‘Selección Especial’ Albarino- The outstanding 2024 Gran Vinum ‘Selección Especial’ Albarino comes from old vines from the Miranda Aurosa estate vineyard. On the nose this has beautiful gardenia flowers and shades of Japanese pear that combine with dense melon and kiwi notes. The palate is full-bodied and wonderfully salty with great length. Enjoy this beauty over the next eight plus years to come. Drink 2025-2034- 93

Alvarez y Diez

2024 Mantel ‘Sobre Lilas’ Verdejo- Golden in the glass, this 2024 Verdejo opens with white flowers, cantalope and nutty nuances on the nose. The palate os soft and round with a good sense of minerality, with plenty of salty accents. Drink 2025-2030- 90

2024 Mantel Sauvignon Blanc- A usual wine from this region, the 2024 Mantel Sauvignon Blanc shows diatom and salted peach and gooseberry tones on the palate with a smooth mouthfeel. Enjoy now. Drink 2025-2030- 90

Luna Beberide

2024 Luna Beberide Godello- Sourced from old vine Godello set on clay and slate, this opens with salted nectarine and pear notes alongside cashew nut on the nose. The wine is salty and savory with a smooth mouthfeel and gobs of minerality. Finishing clean with melon fruits and salty minerals, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2024 Luna Beberide Mencia- The 2024 Mencia shows light to medium boded red currant and red cherry notes on the palate, with a soft mouthfeel and spicy nuanced. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025-2031- 90

San Roman

2021 San Roman ‘San Roman’ Toro- The 2021 ‘San Roman’ comes from 60-100 year old vines, as this has 5% Garnacha blended in. This is dense, rich and chocolate, needing about an hour in the decanter to fully unwind. The weight and length here is really outstanding, as broad-shouldered dark fruits parade with cuban cigar and shades of dark chocolate shavings and a graphite edge all combine harmoniously. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2020 San Roman ‘Cartago Paraje del Pozo’ Toro- The absolutely scintillating 2020 ‘Cartago Paraje del Pozo’ comes from 45 year old vines set on sandy soils. Inky in the glass, this really benefits from a two hour decant before consuming. Worn leather, Arabica bean, blueberry compote and shades of rocky soils all combine on the nose, with dark rose petal notes. The palate is heady and intense with serious power and poise, loaded with lip-smacking minerality. Showing glorious length, enjoy this stunning wine now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2025-2045- 97

Garmon

2021 Garmon Continental Ribera del Duero- The 2021 Garmon Ribera del Duero is dense and concentrated stuff, loaded with tension and salty minerality. Coming from old vines from 30-100 years of age, this was stored in all French oak for 22 months before bottling. A heady core of dark fruits and chocolate pie greet you alongside sagebrush and rocky soil accents. Drink 2025-2034- 93

Isaac Fernandez Selección

2021 Isaac Fernandez ‘Reserva’ Ribera del Duero- The brilliant 2021 Isaac Fernandez ‘Reserva’ comes from 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), fro 80 year old vines planted in Gobelet. This is complex and delicious with mocha, tar and black licorice notes alongside smoky and salty nuances on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 92

Bodegas Penalba Herraiz

2021 Bodegas Penalba Herraiz ‘Aptus’ Ribera del Duero- This intriguing 2021 Ribera del Duero has 5% Grenache blended in. Coming from vines set on clay, sand and gravel, this is wonderfully earthy with good concentration. Dark cherry and black raspberry notes combine with rocky soils and shades of garrigue on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 90

Bodegas Caudalia

2019 Bodeas Caudalia ‘Xi’Ipal “La Bajadas’ Garnacha- The 2019 Xi’Ipal “La Bajadas’  is soft and refined on the mouth, loaded with salted red fruits, pipe tobacco and wet gravel notes. Juicy and brimming with freshness, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next several years. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2019 Bodeas Caudalia ‘Xi’Ipal’ Tempranillo- Coming from the “ La Abejera” vineyard, set at 750 meters, this opens with a ripe bouquet of scorched earth and smoky nuances alongside black cherry compote on the nose. The palate is juicy and fresh with good tension, showing both stony and salty nuances. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2021 Bodeas Caudalia ‘Xi’Ipal Gracia Vid’ Graciano- This 100% Graciano wine comes from limestone soils. This is wonderfully salty and rocky on the mouth with loads of tension. Ripe red and dark fruits parade with black licorice, anise seed and shades of chalky soils. Delicious and ripe, enjoy now and over the next six to eight years. Drink 2025-2031- 91

Pago de la Jaraba

2024 Pago de la Jaraba Sauvignon Blanc- The really good 2024 Pago de la Jaraba Sauvignon Blanc comes from vines set on sandy soils. This shows good salty character alongside ripe melon and pink grapefruit fruits alongside kiwi notes. Drink 2025-2030- 90

2019 Pago de la Jaraba ‘Vina Jaraba Crianza’ Red Wine- A blend of mainly Tempranillo (80%) with equal portions Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the 2019 Vina Jaraba Crianza’ shows medium-bodied red and dark fruits with chocolate and fresh sage notes. This is really good for the price. Drink 2025-2031- 90

2021 Pago de la Jaraba ‘Vina Jaraba Seleccion Especial’ Red Wine- Another terrific value, the 2021 Pago de la Jaraba ‘Vina Jaraba Seleccion Especial is manly Tempranillo (70%) with the remainder Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Plush red and dark fruits parade with sweet pipe tobacco, sea salt and orange zest on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

Elias Mora

2023 Elias Mora Toro- Coming from 25 year old Tinta de Toro vines, this 2023 Elias Mora opens with a beautiful bouquet of dark rose petals with damp earth and shades of dark currants. The palate is earthy and filled with chocolate, tar, and tobacco leaf notes. Drink 2025-2031- 91

Vina Otano

2021 Vina Otano ‘Barrel Fermented’ White Wine- The ‘Barrel Fermented’ combines mainly Viura (75%) with the remainder White Tempranillo. This offers rich honeydew and cantalope fruits with pink grapefruit blossom and suggestions of honeysuckle water. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2016 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja Blanco- A knockout edition of this wine, the 2016 Vina Otano ‘Gran Reserva’ Rioja Blanco combines 85% Viura with 10% Garnacha Blanca and 5% Matura Blanca from 95-year-old vines. It is dense, hedonistic and delicious, with tons of salty character and depth. Heady melon and citrus fruits mingle well with shades of salted papaya and wet rock. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2020 Vina Otano ‘Crianza’ Rioja- The 2020 ‘Crianza’ has 10% Mazuelo blended in. It is nicely rocky with dense red and dark fruits that parade with dark fig, citrus rind and wintergreen on the palate. Complex and delicious, this is already nicely evolved stuff that will cellar well over the next six to eight years. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2018 Vina Otano ‘Reserva’ Rioja- The outstanding 2018 ‘Reserva’ was stored for 18 months in a combination of both French and American oak barrels before bottling. It combines 85% Tempranillo with 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo. It comes off elegant, with rich dark fruits that mingle well with chocolate, fresh sage and rocky nuances. Drink 2025-2034- 93

Legado Del Moncayo

2023 Legado Del Moncayo ‘Vendima Seleccionada’ Garnacha- Another really good edition of this wine, the 2023 Legado Del Moncayo ‘Vendima Seleccionada’ Garnacha comes from 40-60 year old bush vines set at 700-750 meters. A steal at this price, this offers concentrated red fruits, with smoky and salty nuances, with Satsuma orange zest and damp, rocky soils. Drink 2025-2032- 92

Spottswoode

It is my pleasure to share the wines of Spottswoode — one of Napa’s historic properties that dates all the way back to 1882. Founded by Mrs. Albert Spotts in 1910 and was later acquired by Mary and Jack Novak in 1972, Mary released Spottswoode’s first Cabernet Sauvignon in 1982, exactly one hundred years after the estate’s founding. The wines are well-structured, with gobs of aging potential. I have enjoyed the early ‘90s Spottswoode wines that seem to be timeless.

Today Mary’s daughter Beth Novak manages the winery, and daughter Lindsay Novak serves as the winery’s Marketing Ambassador. Every year Spottswoode produces an Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and an Estate Sauvignon Blanc in honor of their founder, Mary Novak. Spottswoode also crafts a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon called Lyndenhurst, a dual-appellation Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc, and two limited-production wines for club members only (Spottswoode Estate “Mary’s Block” Sauvignon Blanc and Field Book Syrah). Their Lyndenhurst wines are beautiful values.

Set on the western edge of St. Helena at the foot of the Mayacamas mountains, estate vines are planted on alluvial clay loam while a strong wartime influence runs through Spring Mountain and the Mayacamas range. The estate has forty acres of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with portions of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Sauvignon Blanc which have been organically farmed since 1985.

I was so impressed with the 2022 Spottswoode ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is a sensational effort despite the obvious challenges of the vintage. Powerful and showing good elegance, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years. Learn more about this famed Napa winery at https://www.spottswoode.com Here is my review of the new Spottswoode wine.

2022 Spottswoode ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Another sensational edition of this wine, the 2022 Spottswoode ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes form this challenging vintage that saw very high temperatures towards harvest. On the nose this takes on rich dark fruits with chocolate and shades of menthol and stony accents. The palate has great power and also excellent finesse. Rich dark currants parade with iron, Black Forest cake and suggestions of wild herbs. Very complex and also delicious, this is drinking unlike many of their releases — sinfully good in its youth. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2025-2040- 95

Sea Smoke

It is my pleasure to share the Sea Smoke wines, first founded in 1999 by Bob Davids in Santa Barbara County, California. The winery is named after the cooling fog that rolls in from the Pacific Ocean. After great success and acquiring Rita’s Crown Vineyard, Sea Smoke was sold to Constellation in 2024. Over the years that wines have been consistently great and certainly helped put Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir on the map. They continue to farm 80 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay plantings.

They make a rare, rich and dense sparkling wine. I love the new I adored the 2023 Sea Smoke ‘Southing’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is loaded with crunchy red fruits. Learn more about these outstanding wines at seasmoke.com and here is my review of the new releases by Sea Smoke.

2020 Sea Smoke ‘Sea Spray’ Sparkling Wine- Sourced from their estate vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills, this 2020 ‘Sea Spray’ spent 12 months in neutral French oak before disgorgement. This is wonderfully salty with pear and nectarine notes alongside suggestions of ginger and starfruit. Neatly-textured and showing plenty of tension, enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2023 Sea Smoke ‘Southing’ Pinot Noir- The gorgeous 2023 ‘Southing’ is wonderfully nervy and refined, with a smooth mouthfeel. It is loaded with salty and tart red fruits with menthol and rocky edges. The plump richness of the wine makes this really sing alongside good tension. Enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

Latta

“I love the wines from ’22” said Andrew Latta as we tasted together. “2022 was kind of the opposite of 2021. We have native yeasts with native ML and we don’t describe ourselves as natural wines but we do traditional Rhone winemaking. Stems, hand punchdowns and not much new French oak” he explained. The wines reflected those with beautiful texture, without a lot of oak impact or toasty oak character.

“I like both 2021 and 2022. The vintages reflect the weather. Tannins and mouthfeel are a hallmark of what I do and I think about a lot of that in the maceration and pressing. My style is more rounded and developed rather than being really aggressive early and so ‘21s reflect a more tannic vintage but 2022s are fresher.”

Andrew Latta is making some of the best Grenache Blanc in the state. Check out his 2023 ‘Frankie’ Grenache Blanc (OB, 95) which comes from the famed WeatherEye Vineyard and has amazing flavor density and flavor range. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.lattawines.com/ and here are my reviews of the new wines by Andrew Latta.

2023 Lucius ‘Concrete’ Albarino- Aged in concrete, this 2023 Albarino saw a day of skin contact and comes form the Lawrence Vineyard. This is rich, neatly-textured and unctuous and concentrated with serious tension and salty nuances, with heady melon fruits. Drink 2025-2032- 93

2023 Lucius ‘Skin Contact’ Viognier- The 2023 ‘Skin Contact’ Viognier saw four days on the skins an then was pressed into neutral oak barrels. Golden in the glass, this deliverers star jasmine water and dense papaya and unctuous melons on the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with great underlying tension. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2024 Lucius ‘Chillable’ Mourvedre- The 2024 Lucius ‘Chillable’ Mourvedre saw a heavy press and was sealed in the tank for ten days in the carbonic style. This is fresh and nervy with a great texture and loads of bright red fruits with citrus zest notes. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2023 Lucius ‘Carbonic’ Syrah- The 2023 Lucius ‘Carbonic’ Syrah is 100% varietal coming from the Upland Vineyard. Green olives and bacon fat fill the nose with white pepper dusted pork shoulder. The palate is fresh and fragrant with loads of juicy black and red fruits. Enjoy now and over the next six plus years. 100% whole cluster fermented. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2023 Latta ‘Latta Latta’ White Wine- A blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne coming from the Lawrence Vineyard. The wine was stored in natural oak (barriques and puncheons). The palate is rich and viscous with terrific texture. Rich melon fruits mingle well with salted cashew nut and green papaya on the palate. Drink 2025-2032- 92

2023 Latta Roussanne- Also coming from the Lawrence Vineyard, the 2023 Roussane was stored in 15% new French oak before bottling with some lees stirring. The palate is unbelievably good with serious weight and texture. Honeydew melon and walnut flavors combine with shades of mango on the palate. Unctuous and rich, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2023 Latta ‘Frankie’ Grenache Blanc- The stunning 2023 ‘Frankie’ was sourced from the north site of the WeatherEye Vineyard, this 2023 Grenache Blanc is dense, rich and loaded with tension. Japanese pear and juicy nectarine combine with hints of passion fruit on the palate. This is amazing, dense Grenache Blanc that is amongst the finest of its kind in the Northwest. Drink 2025-2032- 95

2022 Latta ‘Latta Latta’ Red Wine- The 2022 ‘Latta Latta’ is an amazing value that combines 57% Grenache with 28% Syrah and the remainder Mourvèdre. Mainly coming from the Upland Vineyard, this delivers smoldering stones alongside crushed red fruits with green olive tapenade. The palate is fresh and loaded with mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2022 Latta ‘Upland Vineyard’ Grenache- Andrew Latta has been working with this vineyard since 2010. This is the oldest vineyard in Washington, planted in the 1910s. This exudes class with its beautiful red florals and high-toned red fruits alongside baking spices and blood orange zest. The palate is deep, concentrated and loaded with finesse. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033- 95

2022 Latta ‘Upland Vineyard’ Mourvedre- The 2022 ‘Upland Vineyard’ Mourvèdre offers iodine and bulls blood alongside shades of wild strawberry and smoked meats on the nose. Mostly whole-cluster fermented, this delivers stony and salty nuances alongside bright red fruits with orange peel notes. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Latta ‘Mayor Bill’ Red Wine- All coming from the Upland Vineyard, the ‘Mayor Bill’ combines Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Stored in all neutral oak white pepper and crushed gravel alongside pretty red fruits and red rose petals on the nose. The palate is beautifully-structured, with loads of salty and stony character. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Latta ‘Upland Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2022 ‘Upland Vineyard’ Syrah is a limited production bottling that was stored in all neutral oak before bottling. The palate is nicely textured with loads of salty and stony red and dark fruits alongside green peppercorns and smoked pork shoulder. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Latta ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2022 Latta ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ Syrah combines both Joseph Phelps and Tablas Creek clonal selections, as this was stored in neutral oak barrels before bottling. White pepper dusted bacon and black florals mark the nose with Hoisin sauce and wild blackberry. The palate is fresh and loaded with mouth-watering acidity. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Latta ‘Dana’ Syrah- The 2022 ‘Dana’ has 2% Viognier that was co-fermented. Sourced from the Freewater Rocks Vineyard, this delivers iodine and bulls blood alongside Unami and wintergreen notes. The palate is incredibly stony and mineral-laden with great freshness and texture. Drink 2025-2033- 95

2022 Latta ‘Piece’ Syrah- The 2022 ‘Piece’ is named after Andrew Latta’s first born child. Coming from the WeatherEye Vineyard, this has 5% Viognier blended in. Yarrow and fresh sage mingle well with pretty red florals and crunchy red fruits on the nose. The palate is fresh and loaded with finesse, as your mouth waters with each sip. This is outstanding stuff that is best enjoyed now and over the next decade. 50% whole cluster fermented. Drink 2025-2035- 95

2022 Latta ‘Cabernet/Syrah’ Red Wine- Coming from the Freewater Rocks Vineyard in the Rocks District, this 2022 Provence-inspired blend offers huckleberry and crushed wet rock alongside oyster sauce notes. The palate is dense and mineral-laden with terrific freshness and great stony essence. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2022 Latta ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Malbec- The 2022 Latta ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Malbec comes from 30 year old plantings at this historic site. This comes off very fresh and is loaded with black and blue fruits alongside Christmas spice and hints of chocolate pie. Drink 2025-2035- 93

2022 Latta ‘Gants de Suede’ Red Wine- A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec that was co-fermented from the Solaksen Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA. Rich cassis and anise notes combine with exotic spices on the nose. This has terrific power and finesse, with great freshness as heady dark fruits parade with pipe tobacco and stony nuances on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2022 Latta ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2022 ‘Lawrence Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers sagebrush, dark currants and tobacco leaf on the nose with shades of wet rock. The palate is beautifully-structured with serious texture and finesse. A great core of dark fruits greets you, alongside wet rocky nuances. Drink 2025-2035- 94

Delmas

It has now been the first time in several years that I have reviewed the wines by Delmas — one of the greats from The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. Delmas was born by the watchful eyes of Mary and Steve Robertson who founded this winery more than a decade ago. Steve has a background in real estate development and business management and was previously in Napa before planting vines in his very special SJR Vineyard, in the Walla Walla Rocks District. If you have never been to this vineyard, it is a must visit for oenophiles and lovers of Walla Walla Syrah. Steve hit a home run when he hired Billo Naravane, MW, to serve as his winemaker. Steve’s daughter, Brooke, has been running their viticulture program for years and now serves as head winemaker.

I first blind tasted this wine back in 2015 and reviewed their 2013 Delmas, giving the wine 95 points. The new wines were remarkably consistent and rich with great texture and freshness. I love the new 2023 Delmas Syrah (OB, 96) which is deep, concentrated and powerful, with serious finesse. Learn more about these very special wines at https://delmaswines.com Here are the gorgeous new Delmas Syrahs.

2023 Delmas ‘Estate’ Viognier- The 2023 ‘Estate’ Viognier comes from the famed SJR Vineyard in the Rocks District. The nose shows gorgeous honeysuckle tones alongside shades of gardenia, wet rock and bright green papaya. The palate is dense and unctuous with serious texture and weight, with glorious length. Incredible wine, the saw extensive lees contact. What a beauty! Drink 2025-2031- 95

2023 Delmas Grenache- This 2023 Grenache was all de-stemmed and saw no whole cluster fermentation. 100% varietal, this delivers beautiful red florals with cinnamon and cloves on the nose alongside orange blossom water. The palate is plush and deep with a great melange of red and dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and rocky undertones. Complex and delicious, watch this beauty evolve over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 95

2023 Delmas ‘BDR’ Red Wine- A blend of 82% Syrah with the remainder Grenache with a dash of Cinsault and Viognier. This saw 75% whole cluster fermentation. Red rose petals mark the nose alongside green peppercorns, white pepper dusted brisket and shades of oyster sauce. The palate is lush and fresh with a terrific texture and great sense of underlying verve. Salty, stony and very savory, this is a knockout blend that still has a lot of life ahead of it. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2023 Delas Syrah- The stunning 2023 Delmas Syrah has 7% Viognier co-fermented, as this edition 25% whole cluster fermentation, on the lower side for this wine. The wine was stored in 35% new French oak before bottling. Opening with exotic spices, this exudes class with Hoisin sauce and charcuterie notes alongside suggestions of boysenberry compote. The palate is fresh and impeccably balanced, with serious poise considering the heat of the vintage. Drink 2025-2034- 96

Long Shadows

For many years now Gilles Nicault has been crafting some of the finest wines in Washington State He made great wines in 2020 and has followed with some epic new releasees. Long Shadows began by visionary and Washington wine pioneer Allen Shoup. Shoup is a founding father of the Washington wine industry. He spent 20 years building Château Ste. Michelle and its affiliate wineries, serving as the company's CEO for 17 of those years before establishing Long Shadows in 2002. He had an incredible vision for Long Shadows and built a world-class wine brand from the ground up. The Nine Hats brand that he founded is consistently one of the better value lineups that you will find in Pacific Northwest wine. Long Shadows has an epicurean tasting at their Woodinville tasting room that is arguably the finest food pairing for great wine that you will taste at any Pacific Northwest winery (https://longshadows.com/visit-taste). Having done this now several times, you are going to be blown away with this tasting experience.

I adored the new 2024 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling (OB, 94) which is arguably the finest release in Washington. Learn more about these famed wines at longshadows.com and here are my reviews of the beautiful new Long Shadows wines.

2024 Long Shadows ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling- The 2024 ‘Poet’s Leap’ Riesling has a touch of DuBrul Vineyard blended in. Kerosene and shades of candied ginger and star jasmine water mark the nose alongside burnt orange and suggestions of cantaloupe. The palate is deep and rich with a terrific viscosity and tension. This is amongst the best editions of this wine that I have ever tasted. Drink 2025-2033- 94

2023 Long Shadows ‘Dance’ Chardonnay- The 2023 ‘Dance’ Chardonnay is a stunning new bottling by winemakers Gilles Nicault. Mainly coming from the White Bluffs AVA, this spent 17 months in French oak (mostly concrete and neutral oak) before bottling. This saw extensive battonage, as the wine opens with vanilla cream and cardamom dusted brioche alongside shades of mango and white peach. The palate is dense and unctuous with a terrific combination of mouthfeel and weight. Gorgeous now, and seamless throughout the drinking experience, watch this evolve over the next ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 95

2021 Long Shadows ‘Pedestal’ Merlot- The 2021 ‘Pedestal’ has 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot blended in. The wine is largely coming from the Weinbau and StoneTree Vineyards. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. Sandalwood and shades of black licorice combine with black rose petals. The palate is silky and refined as this offers serious weight and length. Gorgeous throughout the drinking experience, watch this evolve now and over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2025-2040- 96

2021 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine- The otherworldly 2021 Long Shadows ‘Pirouette’ Red Wine is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon with 36% Merlot and the remainder Malbec and Petit Verdot. Very dark in the glass, this offers alluring black florals on the nose wth tar, tobacco leaf, mocha, anise and shades of dark chocolate shavings. The stunning aromatics are simply head-turning. The palate is ultra-refined offering a seamless drinking experience. This is the finest edition of this wine that I have tasted since its inception back in 2003. Drink 2025-2045- 98

2021 Long Shadows ‘Sequel’ Syrah- 100% varietal, the 2021 ‘Sequel’ has roughly 33% whole cluster fermentation. Very performed and inky in the glass, this offers violets, tar, sweet pipe tobacco and shades of smoked pork shoulder, with iodine and oyster sauce doused beef dripping undertones. The palate is seamless throughout the drinking experience, as this is just a joy to consume right now. Fresh and viscous, with amazing mid-palate volume and concentration, enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. I have reviewed every vintage of this wine. A total masterclass in crating a quintessential Washington Syrah, this is arguably the finest edition of this wine since it was first made back in 2003. Drink 2025-2040- 96

2022 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon- A stunning wine from 2022, the Long Shadows ‘Feather’ comes from Sonnet Vineyard as well as Bacchus and Dionysus Vineyards. This cool vintage beauty really needs several hours in the decanter to be fully evolved right now. On the nose this takes on bay leaf and red bell pepper alongside cassis and shades of black licorice. The palate is lush and dense with a terrific mouthfeel and smooth texture. Considering the coolness of the vintage, this has a beautiful combination of finesse, viscosity and flavor density. Drink 2025-2040- 95

King Estate

For years King Estate have quietly been making some of the most consistently good Pinot Gris in Oregon. King Estate director of winemaking Brent Stone has a longstanding history in the industry and makes a really terrific range of wines.

It was many years ago that Oregon wine legend Ed King realized that the southern portion of the Willamette Valley was a perfect spot to grow Pinot Gris. They now make several hundred thousand cases of their ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris that you can find in wine shops and supermarkets across America. Brent Stone has now been at the helm since 2011. He has been doing a fantastic job with the wines that range in SKUs from Sauvignon Blanc and Rose to Sparkling Wines and inky Syrah. King Estate is arguably Oregon’s most beautiful winery with sweeping views of the valley and its vineyards.

I love the new 2024 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris (OB, 91) which is an incredible wine for the price. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at https://www.kingestate.com and here are my tasting notes from the new King Estate wines.

2023 King Estate ‘Oregon’ Sauvignon Blanc- A really nice edition of this wine, the 2023 King Estate ‘Oregon’ Sauvignon Blanc offers pink grapefruit zest and shades of starfruit on the palate with a smooth mouthfeel and plenty of lip-smacking acidity. Drink 2025-2030- 90

2024 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris- The really good 2024 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Gris packs a punch for 20 bucks SRP. It comes form mainly the King Esate and Gosche vineyards. It is smooth and delicious with kiwi, cantalope and wet stone flavors that collide with copious minerals on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2024 King Estate ‘Artisan Series’ Pinot Gris- Another awesome new Gris, the 2024 ‘Artisan Series’ comes from the King Estate Vineyard. It comes off very mineral-laden with terrific freshness, tension and tension. Salty minerals combine with rich melon and citrus fruits on the palate. Drink 2025-2031-91

2024 King Estate ‘Four Nobles Cuvee Blanc’ White Wine- The 2024 ‘Four Nobles Cuvee’ combines manly estate Gewurtztraminer (63%) with smaller portions Pinot Gris, Muscat and Riesling. It is fresh, lithe and nicely-textured stuff with sweetened gooseberry and kiwi notes alongside green melon and hints of star jasmine water on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2023 King Estate ‘Havlin’ Gruner Veltliner- The 2023 ‘Havlin’ comes from this location in the Van Duzer Corridor AVA. This is juicy and delicious stuff with loads of tension, showing Pink Lady apple and honeydew melon notes alongside nutty undercurrents and salty minerals. Drink 2025-2031- 91

2023 King Estate ‘Paradox’ Pinot Gris- The outstanding 2023 ‘Pardox’ Pinot Gris saw some oak aging before bottling. It comes off rich and viscous with dense melon and citrus fruits that collide with cashew nut and shades of green papaya on the palate. Round and generous on the mouth, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2025-2033- 92

2023 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris- Another stellar edition of this wine, the 2023 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Gris makes its case for one of the best wines of its kind in the United States. It comes off rich and fat on the tongue, with outstanding texture and minerality. Heady papaya, mango and starfruit flavors collide with gobs of minerality. Finishing very long, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2022 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay- The 2022 ‘Willamette Valley’ Chardonnay comes from a range of sites across the valley including Tall Tree and Grand Oak Vineyards. Bright pear and apple flavors combine with shades of mango on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 90

2023 King Estate ‘Grand Oak Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Formerly the Nicolas Vineyard, this was rebranded as ‘Grand Oak.’ Aged in a combination of  neutral and new oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel, Concentrated melon and tropical fruits collide with salted French bread and glorious length on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2024 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Rose- The 2024 ‘Willamette Valley’ Rose offers salty minerals with pretty red fruits, peaches and a kiss of sweetness. Enjoy now. Drink 2025-2030- 90

2023 King Estate ‘Inscription’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Inscription/ comes mainly from the King Estate vineyard. It offers light bodied red fruits that parade with sea salt dusted orange peel and volcanic earth on the palate. Drink 2025-2030- 89

2023 King Estate ‘Artisan Series’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Artisan Series’ Pinot Noir is entirely sourced from their estate vineyard. It offers light to medium bodied red fruits that mingle well with tangerine zest and salty soils on the palate. Drink 2025-2030- 89

2023 King Estate ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir delivers medium bodied Bing cherry and black raspberry fruit flavors alongside a smooth mouthfeel and loads of salty minerality. Soft and approachable; enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025-2031- 90

2022 King Estate ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir- The 2022 ‘Domaine’ Pinot Noir is another stellar edition of this wine. It is full-bodied, and loaded with bright red raspberry, cranberry and salted kumquat flavors that collide with copious minerals. The silky mouthfeel and great sense of length really entices. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2025-2035- 93

2023 King Estate ‘The Soldier’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2023 ‘The Soldier’s soft and medium-bodied loaded with bright red fruits with slightly sweet chocolate notes. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2025-2030- 89

Cuvaison

One of the great spots to visit in Carneros, Cuvaison has been a pillar of consistency for decades now. Winemaker Steve Rogstad has defined this wine program, making world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that focuses on poise and texture. I used to enjoy these impressive early 2000s Chardonnays when I was in graduate school. It is hard to believe that this winery was first founded back in 1969. Then in 1979 they acquired 400 acres of highly prized land north of San Pablo Bay in the Los Carneros district of Napa Valley which is a site that is highly influenced by fog and cooler temperatures from the bay.

The new Cuvaison are outstanding. Check out the 2023 Cuvaison ‘Kite Tail’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is dense, rich and nicely poised. Learn more about this outstanding producer at https://www.cuvaison.com and here are the killer sparkling wine, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir releases by Cuvaison.

2024 Cuvaison ‘Methode Baton’ Sauvignon Blanc- The outstanding 2024 Cuvaison ‘Methode Baton’ Sauvignon Blanc offers pink grapefruit and gooseberry notes on the nose with suggestions of gardenia. The palate is plush and neatly textured with great verve and richness. Drink 2025-2031- 92

2023 Cuvaison ‘Kite Tail’ Chardonnay- The 2023 Cuvaison ‘Kite Tail’ Chardonnay comes from older Wente Clone vines at the estate vineyard. Baked apple and shades of white peach combine with shades of salted Challah bread on the nose. The palate is dense and concentrated with serious poise and power. This is a delicious edition of this wine that is already nicely defined to enjoy now. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Cuvaison ‘Debut Cru’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2022 Cuvaison ‘Debut Cru Pinot Noir comes from the Tai Vineyard and is made from Heirloom Pinot Noir selections. This is soft, round and generous on the mouth with juicy red raspberry and red currant fruits alongside fresh sage and orange rind. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2023 Cuvaison ‘Mariafeld’ Pinot Noir- The 2023 ‘Mariafeld’ also comes from the Tai Vineyard and is a Swiss-clone that is dark in color and firm in tannin. This delivers hedonistic dark fruits with wintergreen, wet rock and salty nuances on the palate. Impossible to resist right now, enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2035- 94

Royer Vineyard

Today we share one of the outstanding sites in Oregon. Royer Vineyard is owned by proprietors June and Mark Royer. Mark has worked recently as an importer of Champagne and Burgundy. June Royer also has worked in the importing business, importing teas from Taiwan and China.

I have enjoyed wineries that have crafted their wines from this site — particularly those made by Cristom. I met with Mark and discussed his vineyard and plans earlier in the year. This is the second set of releases that I have tasted so far in 2025 and I am massively impressed with what they are doing.

The new wines have loads of potential. I adored the 2023 ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is seamless throughout the drinking experience with great verve and richness. I love the character of the new wines. Learn more at royervineyard.com and here are my reviews from the new Royer Vineyard wines.

2024 Royer ‘Royer Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2024 ‘Royer Vineyard’ Riesling comes from estate vines set on Witzel soils. This utilizes Riesling clone 49, as this begins with honeysuckle water and kerosene notes on the nose with freshly cut limes. The palate is silky and elegant throughout the drinking experience with a refined texture. Enjoy this beauty over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2024 Royer ‘Royer Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2024 ‘Royer Vineyard’ Chardonnay comes from vines set on volcanic soils. This is stony and fresh with a marvelous sense of tension. Ripe peach and Meyer lemon curd flavors combine with suggestions of papaya and nutty undertones on the palate. Complex and delicious, e enjoy now and over the next ten plus years to come. Drink 2025-2036- 94

2023 Royer ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay- The 2023 ‘Reserve’ is a barrel selection wine from vines set on Witzel soils. This is vibrant, deep and concentrated Chardonnay with serious personality. The flavor range is outstanding from cardamom laced pastry crust, lush melon, citrus and tropical fruits as well as salted cashew nut. Gorgeous now, watch this evolve over the next fifteen years. Drink 2025-2040- 95

2023 Royer ‘548’ Chardonnay- The 2023 ‘548’ focuses on single clone Chardonnay set on Nekia soils. This comes off seamless and also very stony throughout the drinking experience, as copious minerals and lip-smacking acidity both greet you on the palate. Kumquat zest, persimmon and shades of bergamot all fill the palate, alongside crushed wet rock and walnut accents. The terroir imparted here is astonishingly good. Very complex and delicious, enjoy now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2025-2040- 96

Horsepower

Today we share the amazing wines of vigneron Christophe Baron and his Horsepower Vineyards. Raised in France, Baron and his family had a special affinity for animals, as draft horses worked the Champagne vineyards that he and his family resided over. Today we see that childhood inspiration which that led to creating one of the most coveted lineup of wines in the Pacific Northwest, Horsepower Vineyards. In his Walla Walla AVA vineyards his horses help cultivate vineyards ranging from 3,555 to 4,840 vines per acre with as little as 3' x 3' spacing—planted 1 vine per stake, or “sur echalas” in French. Year after year these are some of the finest wines of the Walla Walla AVA. The tightly spaced Sur Echalas Vineyard produces wines that show incredible underlying tension. They have been stunning wines regardless of vintage — wines that shine even in the most challenging of conditions.

Bionic Wines Director of Winemaking Karin Gasparotti took over last year for Elizabeth Bourcier. Gasparotti is an incredible talent. The new wines come from the warmer 2023 vintage.  They are astonishingly good right now and have more texture than the ‘22s, with slightly less finesse. The 2023 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache (OB, 100) is another perfect rendition of this wine. There is not Grenache made like this in the United States. The flavor and aromatic range is second to none. Learn more about about these monumental wines at https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/ Here are my reviews of the new 2023 releases by Horsepower Vineyards.

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ Grenache- A stunning new Grenache, the 2023 ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ cobblestone laden vineyard set in the ancient riverbed of the Walla Walla River on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. Once on the nose the takes on exotic spices alongside blood orange zest, red rose petals and suggestions of smoldering stones with Spanish green olive accents. The palate is rich and concentrated with an unctuous texture and glorious sense of length. Very rocky with great nerve and loads of flavor range, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 99

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- A world-class, beguiling wine, the 2023 ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache comes off very nervy and dense with a sensational mouthfeel. Beef drippings, tar, wintergreen and charcuterie notes mingle well with iodine and seaweed notes. The flavor range here is second to none. A perfect wine made in a warm vintage, this finishes exceedingly long and offers texture and weight not achieved from other wines from this region. Generous and broad-shouldered, enjoy this glorious wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 100

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah- Another otherworldly rendition of this wine, the 2023 ’Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah was stored in all natural oak before bottling. The aromatic range is sensational with Oyster sauce, Nori, white pepper dusted bacon and shades of compost with wild blackberry compote. The palate is dense and nervy with great tension and weight, alongside mouth-watering acidity. Very fresh and neatly textured, I’m not sure there is a wine quite like this in the world. Ultra-novel, the dizzying flavor range leaves you spellbound. Enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 100

2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this location that is set on both ancient cobblestones and silty loam soils. Stored for 15 months in natural oak, this shows good nerve on the mouth, loaded with stony character alongside sea salt dusted smoked meats, green peppercorns and shades of cassis and Arabica bean alongside loamy soils and Parma ham. Very meaty and stony, this is a gorgeous rendition of the wine that will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2025-2033- 97

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2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- An amazing edition of this wine, the 2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this stony location outside of the town of Milton-Freewater. This opens with Hoisin sauce, tar, beef drippings and orang zest alongside shades of Middle Eastern spices. The palate is elegant and refined with a silky mouthfeel and loads of texture and tension. A gorgeous wine to consume now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 97

Taittinger

An amazing champagne house with some serious history, Champagne Taittinger dates back to 1734 when a wealthy textile merchant named Jacques Fourneaux founded a Champagne house named Forest-Fourneaux. During this 18th century he was working with Benedictine monks in learning how to craft sparkling wines. This house remained intact until the 1930s when Pierre Taittinger bought the house and named it after himself, also purchasing the estate vineyards.

After years of developing the brand, Taittinger became wildly popular in the 1950s and today it is one of the largest houses in Champagne, producing roughly 5-6 million bottles annually. Most people are familiar with their great NV Taittinger ‘Brut La Francaise’ (OB, 91) which has really nice range for the price. Taittinger has also been a hit in James Bond movies, as Bond enjoyed Taittinger in “Casino Royale.” Taittinger also founded Domaine Carneros in 1987 which has become one of the finest sparkling wine houses not only in California but North America. They also make a killer, very delicate NV Taittinger ‘Prestige’ Rose Champagne (OB, 92) that you can find on first class Qatar Airways. The Rose is fresh and also shows a gorgeous core of delicate red fruits. Learn more about this famed house at https://www.taittinger.com/en and here are my reviews of the new releases by Champagne Taittinger.

NV Taittinger ‘Brut La Francaise’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut La Francaise’ combines Chardonnay (40%), with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and comes from 35 different vineyards and vintages. It shows good finesse and a soft mousse. Salted green melon flavors mingle well with wet rock, lemon rind and copious minerals on the palate. Drink 2025-2031- 91

NV Taittinger ‘Prestige’ Rose Champagne-The NV Taittinger ‘Prestige’ Rose is a beautiful wine that you can also savor in first class Qatar Airways as I did earlier in the year. It is very pretty in its guava and cranberry fruit profile, loaded with salty minerals. The combination of density and nuance really makes this sing. Drink 2025-2032- 92

NV Taittinger ‘Nocturne City Lights’ Champagne- A slightly sweet champagne composed from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes, the ‘Nocturne City Lights’ delivers candied papaya and kumquat flavors that meld well with cloves, challah bread and suggestions of baking spice laced shortbread. It is nicely rich on the mouth with excellent viscosity. Drink 2025-2033- 92

NV Taittinger ‘Nocturne City Lights’ Rose Champagne- A very pretty salmon hue, the ‘Nocturne City Lights’ Rose Champagne combines Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It has just a kiss of sweetness on the palate, with salted tangerine, cantaloupe and red cherry fruits that meld well with gravel and diatom accents. Delicious now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 92

NV Taittinger ‘Prelude’ Champagne- The NV ‘Prelude’ Champagne is another stunning rendition of this wine new wine that spent more than than five years on the lees. This combines equal parts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and comes from onlyGrand Cru vineyards. Salted French bread and starfruit flavors combine with dense melon fruits and suggestions of yellow plum on the palate. The richness and viscosity here is really good, as this is best savored now and over the next decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

NV Taittinger ‘Les Folies de la Marquetterie’ Champagne- The NV Taittinger ‘Les Folies de la Marquetterie’ comes from the Les Folies Vineyard, a Taittinger estate. Stored on the lees for four years, this has amazing richness, power and underling tension. Brioche and white peach mark the palate alongside shades of red raspberry and wet gravel underpinnings. A really delicious wine to enjoy now, this will easily hold for another decade. Drink 2025-2035- 94

2016 Taittinger ‘Brut Millesime’ Champagne- The 2016 ‘Brut Millesime’ Champagne is composed of equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It immediately opens with kiwi and wet rock on the nose alongside orange blossom and fresh ginger notes. The palate is rich and fat with an unctuous mouthfeel and great underlying salinity and tension. Great now, enjoy over the next ten years to come. Drink 2025-2035- 94

Pommery

It was visionary Madame Louise Pommery, who took over Pommery in 1858. She quickly helped Pommery become dedicated to high-quality champagne, and in 1874, they created the first commercially successful brut (dry) champagne, changing the market forever. The company also transformed Gallo-Roman chalk quarries into extensive, 18 km-long cellars for aging champagne. 
They have a range of wines including their top wine, the ‘Cuvee Louise’ which is typically deep, rich and irresistible. I love the new lineup. The NV ‘Brut Apanage’ (OB, 92) has terrific density and mouthfeel. It benefits from some extra aging and is delightful to savor now. The 2006 ‘Cuvee Louise’ (OB, 95) is a fully mature champagne that is right at peak. It is a marvelous wine that I have enjoyed time and time again in the Concorde Room at Terminal 5 for British Airways. Learn more at https://www.champagnepommery.com/pommery-house and here are my reviews of the new Pommery wines.

NV Pommery ‘Brut Royal’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut Royal’ is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. It is light on its feet with biscuit and yellow plum flavors alongside salty minerals and juicy pear notes. Drink 2025-2030- 90

NV Pommery ‘Brut Apanage’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut Apanage’ comes from 12 different crus, and is comprised of 45% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It is richer than the ‘Brut Royal’ and comes off juicy and delicious with rich melon and citrus fruits that combine with toasted shortbread and hazelnut notes. Drink 2025-2032- 92

2006 Pommery ‘Cuvee Louise’ Champagne- An amazing wine from a tough vintage, the 2006 ‘Louise’ is dense and fat on the mouth, with only a faint effervescence. Candied ginger, salted and buttered French bread and shades of red raspberry all combine with a terrific viscosity, weight and length. Very salty and heady, enjoy this beautiful wine now when it is right at its peak. A blend of 65% Chardonnay and the remainder Pinot Noir. Drink 2025-2031- 95

Renato Ratti

For more than 50 years Renato Ratti has been a stalwart in Barolo. Their vineyards spread across approx. 50 hectares, divided among 6 estates, located in La Morra, Mango, Costigliole d’Asti, and Dogliani. Renato Ratti is celebrated as the father of the cru system in Barolo  and in 2025 his museum was made. It is located within the ancient cellars of the Annunziata Monastery in La Morra “to give the Alba region a museum dedicated to its wines.” It was, in fact, the first museum in the Langhe region specifically devoted to the history of local winemaking.

I love the wines from this historic winery. They are classically made and focus on nuance and texture. I adored the 2021 Renato Ratti ‘Rocche Dell’Annuziata’ Barolo (OB, 96) which shows ultra-pure red fruits with gorgeous red florals. It is a total stunner that is remarkably good in its youth. Learn more at https://www.ratti.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Ratti wines.

2021 Renato Ratti ‘Marcenasco’ Barolo- The world-class 2021 Renato Ratti ‘Marcenasco’ Barolo is a sensational release. It opens with a heady bouquet of cranberry and mulling spices alongside Mandarin orange zest and gorgeous red florals. The palate is tannic and mineral-laden, with worn leather and damp soil notes alongside peat moss and black truffle shavings. Showing fantastic finesse and texture, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years to come. Drink 2026-2043- 95

2021 Renato Ratti ‘Rocche Dell’Annuziata’ Barolo- The 2021 Renato Ratti ‘Rocche Dell’Annuziata’ comes from vines set on blue marl soil with some layers of sand. It is very translucent in the glass, offering a lush mouthfeel. Layers of very pretty red cherry and loganberry fruits combine with kumquat rind, salty soils and shades of red licorice on the palate, with herbal accents. This is very light on its feet and is remarkably delicious to consume in its youth. Drink 2026-2043- 96

Elentone

Today we introduce the outstanding sparkling wines of Elentone. One of. The awesome houses winery out of Woodinville, Washington, Elentone winemaker Chris Sherry hails from Brighton in southern England. Sherry is an fervent Brighton football supporter and shares the same passion for sparkling wines. He has formerly trained under Morgan Lee at Two Vintners.
Wines are made traditional Champagne method and are given a limited or zero dosage.  He is making wines from one of the outstanding sites in the Columbia Gorge, the Rainmaker Vineyard that Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen of W.T. Vintners has made famous. Sherry’s wines are salty with a soft mousse and very approachable. He does a good job with creating  refinement on the attack — whereas some producers are creating bubble bombs.

Check out the outstanding 2021 Elentone ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 93) which has an outstanding mousse and texture. Learn more about these beautiful wines at elentone.com and here are the outstanding new wines by Elentone.

2021 Elentone ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine- coming from the Clos Cheval Vineyard, this is 83% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir. The wine was stored on the lees for three years before disgorgement in August 2025 and this was given zero dosage. Biscuit and honeydew melon mark the nose alongside yellow plum. This has terrific body and weight with a refined mousse and loads melon and citrus fruits, with great salty nuance. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2021 Elentone ‘Shadowplay’ Rose Sparkling Wine- Coming from the Rainmaker Vineyard, the 2021 ‘Shadowplay’ is a zero dosage Rose sparkling wine that was aged three years on the lees. This is big and rich with an elegant mousse and great underlying finesse. Bright cranberry and red raspberry fruits collide with loads of salty minerals on the palate. Drink 2025-2033- 93

2019 Elentone ‘Cloudbursting’ Sparkling Wine- Aged for five years on the lees, the gorgeous 2019 Elentone ‘Cloudbursting’ Sparkling Wine comes from the Clos Cheval Vineyard in the Lake Chelan AVA. This combines 84% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir. The bouquet is gorgeous. Honey and shades of saline drenched mixed nuts combine with delicate red fruits on the nose. The palate is heady and delicious with plenty of power, saline topped citrus and melon fruits alongside nutty and damp earth nuances. Drink 2025-2035- 94