Today we share the amazing wines of vigneron Christophe Baron and his Horsepower Vineyards. Raised in France, Baron and his family had a special affinity for animals, as draft horses worked the Champagne vineyards that he and his family resided over. Today we see that childhood inspiration which that led to creating one of the most coveted lineup of wines in the Pacific Northwest, Horsepower Vineyards. In his Walla Walla AVA vineyards his horses help cultivate vineyards ranging from 3,555 to 4,840 vines per acre with as little as 3' x 3' spacing—planted 1 vine per stake, or “sur echalas” in French. Year after year these are some of the finest wines of the Walla Walla AVA. The tightly spaced Sur Echalas Vineyard produces wines that show incredible underlying tension. They have been stunning wines regardless of vintage — wines that shine even in the most challenging of conditions.
Bionic Wines Director of Winemaking Karin Gasparotti took over last year for Elizabeth Bourcier. Gasparotti is an incredible talent. The new wines come from the warmer 2023 vintage. They are astonishingly good right now and have more texture than the ‘22s, with slightly less finesse. The 2023 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache (OB, 100) is another perfect rendition of this wine. There is not Grenache made like this in the United States. The flavor and aromatic range is second to none. Learn more about about these monumental wines at https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/ Here are my reviews of the new 2023 releases by Horsepower Vineyards.
2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ Grenache- A stunning new Grenache, the 2023 ‘Fiddleneck Vineyard’ cobblestone laden vineyard set in the ancient riverbed of the Walla Walla River on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. Once on the nose the takes on exotic spices alongside blood orange zest, red rose petals and suggestions of smoldering stones with Spanish green olive accents. The palate is rich and concentrated with an unctuous texture and glorious sense of length. Very rocky with great nerve and loads of flavor range, enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 99
2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- A world-class, beguiling wine, the 2023 ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache comes off very nervy and dense with a sensational mouthfeel. Beef drippings, tar, wintergreen and charcuterie notes mingle well with iodine and seaweed notes. The flavor range here is second to none. A perfect wine made in a warm vintage, this finishes exceedingly long and offers texture and weight not achieved from other wines from this region. Generous and broad-shouldered, enjoy this glorious wine now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 100
2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah- Another otherworldly rendition of this wine, the 2023 ’Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Syrah was stored in all natural oak before bottling. The aromatic range is sensational with Oyster sauce, Nori, white pepper dusted bacon and shades of compost with wild blackberry compote. The palate is dense and nervy with great tension and weight, alongside mouth-watering acidity. Very fresh and neatly textured, I’m not sure there is a wine quite like this in the world. Ultra-novel, the dizzying flavor range leaves you spellbound. Enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2035- 100
2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘High Contrast Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this location that is set on both ancient cobblestones and silty loam soils. Stored for 15 months in natural oak, this shows good nerve on the mouth, loaded with stony character alongside sea salt dusted smoked meats, green peppercorns and shades of cassis and Arabica bean alongside loamy soils and Parma ham. Very meaty and stony, this is a gorgeous rendition of the wine that will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2025-2033- 97
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2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah- An amazing edition of this wine, the 2023 Horsepower Vineyards ‘The Tribe Vineyard’ Syrah comes from this stony location outside of the town of Milton-Freewater. This opens with Hoisin sauce, tar, beef drippings and orang zest alongside shades of Middle Eastern spices. The palate is elegant and refined with a silky mouthfeel and loads of texture and tension. A gorgeous wine to consume now, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2025-2033- 97