My best friend and I began visiting Oregon wine country in 2002. We were both finishing up our senior years at Whitman College and knew next to nothing about wine. One of the wineries that was most compelling to me at the time was those made at Argyle. They had created a tremendous sparkling wine program that seemed remarkably consistent. I became exceedingly fond of those wines as well as the wonderful Pinot Noirs made there by legendary winemaker, Rollin Soles.
I long admired the wines that Rollin made at Argyle and began purchasing them in 2002 until he started his own winery project, ROCO winery. Sadly I have very few of those wines left [they were so good they miraculously vanished] but I remember some incredible ones like the 2002 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ which I was fortunate enough to revisit over the Christmas holiday. Needless to say, the wine is still absolutely singing.
Rollin only recently began making sparkling wines again at his namesake winery and are all very glad that he did. His 2015 ‘RMS Rose’ made its way on our 2019 WWB Top 100 and his new sparkling wines are simply thrilling — as compelling as any of their kind made in Oregon. Look to the 2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 94) which has a beautiful mousse and silky texture that truly entices. Rollin has crafted a thrilling new Pinot Noir bottling with his 2017 ROCO ‘Private Stash No. 15’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which is rich, viscous and downright delicious in its youth. This total stunner will cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about these outstanding wines at rocowinery.com. Here are the beautiful new wines by ROCO and superstar winemaker Rollin Soles.
2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- A brilliant follow up to the 2015 bottling, the 2016 ‘RMS’ opens with an intense bouquet of bright green apples that meld with shades of nutmeg infused sourdough bread and lemon curd that all come together in the glass. The balance imparted here is simply marvelous as the wine shows a silky mousse and marvelous texture that shows off this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley. Fantastic in its nascent phase, the 2016 ‘RMS’ will enjoy at least another decade of life ahead of it — but is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2020-2030- 94
2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Rose Sparkling Wine- The 2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Rose Sparkling Wine is a simply magical new Rose Sparkling Wine that rivals anything in its kind. The wine is a simply stunning release by famed winemaker Rollin Soles that will have a long life ahead of it in the cellar. Once on the nose you are awoken to bright cranberry and citrus zest aromatics that combine with suggestions of teaberry and white pepper that all meld together in the glass. The silky mousse entices as bright red fruits collect momentum with mineral and citrus rind accents the all sing in harmony on the palate. Bright and dense, with a silky mouthfeel, the 2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Rose Sparkling Wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 94
2017 ROCO ‘The Stalker’ Pinot Noir- This intriguing wine mixes Pinot Noir grapes with mature grape stalks. The nose is generous with bright red fruits that meld with lighter damp earthy toners that all come together in the glass. The palate is plush, showing round and generous red fruit flavors with baking spice and lighter citrus rind tones. Fantastic and marvelously textured in its youth, enjoy this ‘Stalker’ over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92
2017 ROCO ‘Private Stash No. 15’ Pinot Noir- This is the 15th edition of this limited edition wine made by legendary Oregon producer Rollin Soles. The nose is exceedingly good ranging from black truffle shavings and peat moss to wild blackberry and suggestions of red currant jelly that all mingle together on the nose. The palate has a seamless quality that effortlessly glides, reveling a range of red fruit flavors alongside bright minerals, orange zest and damp earthy tones. While this is seriously good now, the ‘Private Stash No. 15’ will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 94
2017 ROCO ‘Knudsen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Rollin Soles has sourced from this esteemed vineyard for more than a decade. The resultant 2017 edition shows gorgeous aromatic range from red currants to sandalwood tones as well as lemon zest and shades of white truffle that all come together marvelously in the glass. The palate is full-bodied and generous, with wonderful length and verve. Guava puree and red raspberry cordial collide with suggestions of wild mushroom, peat moss and copious minerals. Bright, with outstanding richness, the 2017 ‘Knudsen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will enjoy a long time in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 93
2017 ROCO ‘Marsh Estate’ Pinot Noir- The simply magical ‘Marsh Estate’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous new wine from Rollin Soles. The brightness and downright awesome texture of the wine really excites the senses. Bright red fruits collide with high-toned citrus rind accents and earthy undertones on the palate. Fantastic in its youth, the 2017 ‘Marsh Estate’ will enjoy a decade or more in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 93