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Owen Bargreen

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Here are the sensational pre-release wines by Leonetti Cellar.

Leonetti Cellar

January 23, 2023

Ask anyone in the Washington wine industry if they recall their first bottle of Leonetti Cellar wine. I can assure you that they will have a story for you! Mine was an unforgettable 2000 Merlot when I was in graduate school. I will never forget that silky mouthfeel and concentration! For decades Leonetti has been producing some of the state’s finest red wines. They now also have an amazing single vineyard Cabernet project is a great chance for winemaker Chris Figgins to showcase the diverse terroirs of the Walla Walla Valley. Chris also makes one of the great Aglianico wines you will find in North America.

It is an honor to be the first critic to taste these pre-release wines. This weekend I opened each bottle and tasted them over several hours, watching them evolve. The wines all need patience and a lot of air. Over time each evolved into some of the finest single variety wines of their kind. Don’t miss out on the incredible 2017 Leonetti Cellar Aglianico (OB, 94) which is amongst the best New World expressions of this varietal that you will find. I really loved the 2020 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese (OB, 95) which is generous and broad-shouldered, with incredible structure and weight. The finest wine I tasted was the scintillating 2020 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 97) which is massive and heady right now, really needing a few years of cellaring. This one will be a treat to enjoy in a few years! Learn more about these stunning new wines at http://leonetticellar.com/ Here are my reviews of the beautiful new Leonetti Cellar wines. 

2020 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- The 2020 Sangiovese is another sensational offering by Chris Figgins that comes from the Seven Hills, Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Holy Roller Vineyards. Like other editions of this wine, the quality in the glass will easily equal any other Sangio made in North America.  Aged for 22 months in a combination of new and used French oak barrels, this offers lovely tension with a seamless mouthfeel on the approach. Blood orange zest, menthol, Bing cherry compote and suggestions of bay leaf all combine beautifully on the palate. Showing good richness and depth, this beauty has let to fully hit its stride. Try to resist the 2020 Sangiovese for at least another year, as this awesome new wine has some serious potential.  Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- The 2021 Leonetti Cellar Merlot is a flat-out delicious new bottling that will live on for decades.  Coming from the Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Leonetti Old Block Vineyards, the 100% Merlot was stored for 15 months in new and used barrels and puncheons, as well as oval botti, prior to bottling. Roasted dates, with mocha, tar and huckleberry notes fill the nose. The palate is very dense, with beautiful underlying finesse and rich dark currant, blackberry and chocolate covered dark cherry flavors combine with gobs of minerality on the palate. I can see this gorgeous 2021 Merlot cellaring well for decades. If enjoying now give this two hours in the decanter. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2020 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon- You have to admire the thrilling 2020 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon which is truly one of the great wines produced in this challenging vintage. .Sourced from the Seven Hills, Loess, Mill Creek Upland, Serra Pedace, Holy Roller and Leonetti Old Block vineyards, the wine is a combination of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, with equal parts Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc. Very inky in the glass,  this offers violets, tar and copious dark fruits on the nose alongside espresso bean notes. The palate shows vibrant underlying acidity alongside intense black currant, coffee ground and huckleberry flavors, with hints of menthol and cigar ash. Very fresh and heady, give this at least two hours in the decanter before enjoying.  Enjoy this highly hedonistic Cabernet Sauvignon now and over the next ten to fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2037- 96

2017 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2017 Leonetti Aglianico is a truly one of a kind wine that comes from this somewhat cooler vintage in the Walla Walla Valley. Stored for 44 months in a combination of terracotta amphorae and French oak (both new and used) barrels, this comes from the high elevation Serra Pedace Vineyard. The wine is seamlessly textured, with firm tannins providing serious grip. Layers of sweet pipe tobacco collide with bitter chocolate, espresso grounds, and boysenberry liquor. Very rustic and appealing now, with scorched earthy accents, and fabulous freshness, this may just be the finest Aglianico that Leonetti has crafted. Enjoy now and over the next two decades. Give this two hours in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2042- 94

2020 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2020 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine is a compelling combination of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon with a large portion of Malbec (12%) and a touch of Petit Verdot (5%). It is very inky once in the glass, showing a deep purple core, slowly unveiling layers of violets, graphite, Turkish coffee and blueberry compote. The palate is silky and smooth with very refined tannins and marvelous concentration. The Malbec seems to be stealing the show right now with its Black Forest cake notes, alongside suggestions of creosote and intense blue fruit flavors. Try to hold off on savoring this beauty for another year or so. Drink 2024-2040—  97

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