Chimney Rock

Set with a gorgeous backdrop of the mountains, Chimney Rock is a beautiful spot to taste their collection of fine wines. This estate began back in the 1980s when purchased a 180 acre property, complete with a golf course on the east side of the Silverado Trail. Since that time, Chimney Rock has become known for Cabernet, particularly their single vineyard bottlings. I was particularly impressed with the recent releases from the glorious 2012 vintage. Those ’12 releases are going to need some time in the bottle to be fully expressive. Give them a few years for their fruit structure to fully integrate. Some of the older bottlings showed very well, too. The 2009 Chimney Rock Cabernet was in full ripness with great fruit structure that is perfect for current consumption. Look for the range of Chimney Rock wines at Total Wines, as well as Wine World and Esquin in Seattle. Here is the full lineup of expressive Chimney Rock wines that I recently tried at the winery. ‪#‎chimneyrock‬

2012 Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc- Weighing in at 14.2% alcohol, the grapes saw 6 months in Frnech oak (33% new, 33% used) and stainless (33%). This wine has been bottled for more than two years and it is showing beautifully. This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (57%) and Sauvignon Gris (43%). There are aromas of pear and cut grass, as well as red delicious apple. The palate is smooth and viscous, as the wine offers a silky mouthfeel. There are flavors of ripe pear, star fruit and red delicious with vibrant minerality. Very serious Bordeaux style white wine. Drink 2015-2022. -93

2011 Chimney Rock Merlot-This is a limited release wine that is not typically made. It is current a reticent wine that opens with aromas of red bell pepper, dill and black cherry. Palate has nice richness and has a velvety and smooth mouthfeel but needs a ton of time. There are flavors of red cherry, anise and red bell pepper that persist with a long finish. This mineral driven wine would be a shame to enjoy now, as the fruit hasn’t fully integrated. I anticipate a long life for this one. Drink 2018-2028. -91

2011 Chimney Rock Elevage- This herbaceous style red was bottled in June 2013 and saw 18 months in new French oak prior to bottling. It is comprised of 55% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot. The wine opens with ripe aromas of red bell pepper with nutmeg and red cherry on the perfumed nose. Palate has vibrant minerality that is indicative of this cold vintage red. Red cherry, red bell pepper, green olive and blackberry mark this delicious wine. Needs a ton of time in the bottle to fully integrate, but this will drink nicely in two plus years. Drink 2018-2035. -92

2010 Chimney Rock Elevage- This wine has had more than three years in the bottle. This is a blend of 56% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Currently more expressive than its ’11 older brother, the wine opens with aromas of crushed rock, cassis and blackberry on the nose. This leads to a rich mouthfeel and viscosity. There are persistent flavors of graphite, creme de cassis and blackberry. Nice depth, indicative of this great vintage. Drink 2016-2030. -92

2006 Chimney Rock Cabernet-This is a library release wine that is showing beautifully at this time. Stewed prune and red cherry on the nose. Palate has milk chocolate, black cherry, blackberry jam and minerals. Striking minerality considering its age. Drink 2015-2020. -92

2009 Chimney Rock Cabernet-This wine was sourced from Stags Leap District fruit and is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. It saw 18 months in French oak (50% new). This wine opens with a herbaceous nose with red bell pepper and anise. Palate has anise, blackberry and mocha. There are still some moderate tannins, which leads to nice richness and texture. Drink 2017-2028. -92

2009 Chimney Rock Young Vines Cabernet- This expressive wine explodes in the glass with ripe aromas of black cherry, blackberry jam and tar. The palate is viscous and full bodied. This approachable wine has flavors of blackberry, black cherry and creme de cassis. Delicious and hard to resist right now. Drink 2015-2028 -92

2010 Chimney Rock Cabernet- Bottled in July 2012, this saw 18 months in French oak (50% new) and is from Stags Leap District fruit. This wine currently has massive potential. It has a dense nose with prune and blackberry. There are persistent and rich flavors of blackberry, dill, red bell pepper and striking minerality. This impressive effort will cellar well for 20 years. Drink 2018-2030. -93

2011 Chimney Rock Cabernet- This wine is more reticent than its vintage neighbors and is more indicative of the colder vintage. There is a herbaceous nose with green olive, blackberry and dill. Palate has flavors of green olive, anise, creme de cassis with strong minerality. Shut down and needs a ton of time for the fruit to fully integrate. This is a nice effort considering the vintage. Drink 2018-2030. -91

2012 Chimney Rock Cabernet- This masculine wine saw 18 months of French oak (50% new) before being bottled in June 2014. The wine explodes in the glass with nice flavors of blackberry and anise. This has a wonderful velvety texture, similar to the ’10 Cabernet. There are rich flavors of blackberry, creme de cassis and black olive. While the fruit is still somewhat shut down, there is a ton of potential with this one for the patient wine drinker. Drink 2020-2035 -93

2011 Chimney Rock ‘Ganymede Vineyard’ Cabernet- This is an exceptional effort from a cold vintage, as these guys have nailed this one. The wine begins with an herbal nose with red bell pepper, blackberry and red currant. Nice silky texture with vibrant mineral backbone. Palate has blackberry, black tea, black olive and mocha flavors. Don't touch until 2018. Drink 2018-2035. -92

2012 Chimney Rock ‘Arrowhead Vineyard’ Cabernet- This rich wine opens with aromas of cassis, blackberry and milk chocolate. There is a dense and lovely mouthfeel on the palate. Flavors of black tea, creme de cassis and blackberry preserves with mouth-watering acidity. Rich and dense wine that will need time. Drink 2018-2035. -93

Chateau Montelena

Originally founded in 1888 and named A.L. Tubbs winery after its founder Alfred Tubbs, the winery was initially intended as a barrel-aging facility. Fast forward to the '70s, in 1976 the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was judged against four white Burgundy wines. The 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won the Judgement of Paris, being voted the top wine of the tasting. This landmark achievement was shocking at the time, as French wines were typically viewed as considerably superior to California wines. The winemaking team currently uses sustainable and organic farming methods to promote the health of the soil and ultimately preserve the land's productivity. For example, instead of using chemical pesticides for pest control, they grow cover crops and release ladybugs into the vineyard to keep the pests at bay. Head winemaker, Matt Crafton Matt joined Chateau Montelena in 2008 as Assistant Winemaker after graduating from UC Davis and serving as an intern at Etude Wines. In 2014 he promoted to head winemaker in 2014.
The two new releases from Chateau Montelena, the 2012 Chardonnay and 2012 Cabernet come from a near perfect vintage in Napa. The Chard was balanced and lively, done in the Napa style, while the Cabernet was delicious and ripe right out of the bottle, unlike some other ’12 Napa Cabs that need more time to develop. I was impressed with both efforts that keep up the fine tradition of Montelena winemaking. Look for these great wines at Northwest wine shops such as Esquin, Met Market and Total Wines, or online at http://montelena.com Here are the great new releases from Chateau Montelena ‪#‎chateaumontelena‬

2012 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay- The 2012 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay opens with lively aromas reminiscent of lemon zest, brioche and white peach. This possesses a wonderful mineral driven core, leading to flavors of Meyer lemon, banana, vanilla cream, Gravenstein apple and Bartlett pear which cascade through the wine. This is a beautifully layered and complex Chard, with a lasting finish. Winemaker Matt Crafton aged this wine 10 months in French oak (10% new). (Drink 2015-2022) $40.00

2012 Chateau Montelena- The 2012 Montelena Cabernet is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged 14 months in French & Eastern European Oak (16% new). It opens with aromas of red bell pepper, dill, blackberry and milk chocolate. This leads to flavors of blackberry, black cherry, black olive and cloves. Lovely mouthfeel and mineral backbone. Done in the open style, this is approachable right now and is delicious right out of the bottle. (Drink 2015-2025) $45.00

Interview with Megan Overman, Sommelier at Chandler's Crabhouse

As part of Washington Wine Blog’s Somm Focus, we have selected another impressive young sommelier, this time from Chandler’s Crabhouse restaurant in Seattle. Megan Overman has a background in French wines and previously worked as an artist and a clothing designer. She found her passion in wine education and has been working as a somm at Chandler’s Crabhouse, slowly building their wine program. I am particularly impressed how the wine program has improved at Chandler’s in the past 5 or so years. The list continues to evolve to include many northwest favorites, but also has some expressive international and domestic selections as well – all for a pretty reasonable price. Here is Megan Overman’s wonderful and candid interview with us:
WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine? How did you decide to become a Somm?

MO: I grew up around wine. I was raised catholic and half of my family still lives in France. We visit each other at least once a year and food and wine are always a huge part, if not the biggest. Seeing people come together over a meal is my favorite part of my job. I believe there is truly a bond around breaking bread and that you will never learn or understand wine if you don't love the people you are sharing that with.
When I was younger it never occurred to me that this could be a career. My first career was is in design. In my 20's I enjoyed the life of a starving artist. I had a clothing label and an art gallery. I eventually found myself back in the restaurant industry. Within months I overheard other servers talk about this career as a Somm. A career drinking wine? I can do that. So I went through the International Sommelier Program and have been moving forward ever since. I have traveled France's wine regions twice now and worked in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Schwartz Brothers is the second position I have held as a Sommelière as well as the second wine program I have played a fundamental role in. I have no desire to be a wine maker as many somms do. I love the restaurant side of it- pairing food and wine, teaching staff and promoting local industry.

WWB: What are some of your favorite northwest wines and producers?

MO: I love old world wine. Specifically French and more specifically Provence wine. Ask any French or Italian person what their favorite wine is and it will always be where they are from. It is important to understand this because I believe whole heartedly in the promotion of Washington wine. I am from here and Washington makes amazing wine. But more than amazing, there is a soul to it. Bob Betz once said that Washington has this perfect balance between new world and old world. I agree and love finding wines here in Washington that uniquely show character while having depth and remaining true to varietal.
My first experience was with Pomum Cellars. I have known this winery since the beginning of my career. Javier Alfonso is an amazing winemaker. His wines are extremely complex, earthy and elegant. His Shya Bordeaux blend is one of my favorites to put down on a table for diners looking for a great example of a Washington cab or blend. I also believe that he makes the best Riesling this state if not the country has to offer.
Then I met Morgan Lee. He is the wine maker for Two Vintners winery. What I enjoy so much about Morgan is that he just does it. He is known for his Syrahs but he also makes a Grenache Blanc- which is my favorite lunchtime wine. He makes a Zinfandel FROM WASHINGTON! Two Vintners makes O.G. (look it up, it is a must for any wine geek) as well as the loveliest Cab in my opinion- Legit Cab, which is seriously LEGIT.
Structure Cellar's wines may make me feel the most at home perhaps because Brian and Brandee are so awesome, maybe because I work with Brian Grasso here at Chandler's but it is really because I find so much depth in their wines from them allowing the varietals to truly express themselves. The Newell is a blend of Syrah and Cab Franc and if my eyes were closed I would guess it as a Provence red. Their Newell, Piloti Cab Franc and Blueprint White blend are our "Featured Wines" currently at Chandler's Crabhouse.
During my time on the floor as a Somm at Daniel's (also a Schwartz Brothers Restaurant) I really got to know Steven's Winery and it's been added to my list of favorites. Their wines all have this sexy edge to me. The Timey Malbec is a beast and hands down the best expression of Malbec I have seen from this state.
All of these wines are created to be food friendly. Every winery has their unique style which comes through in each wine. As a Somm, this tells me the winemaking is deliberate and methodical, this is important. They are accessible wines and all from small wineries. And proudly, they are all or have at one time been on Chandler's glass pour list.

WWB: You mentioned that you are currently building the Somm program for Schwartz Brothers restaurants. Can you explain what the program is like and how you are building the program, as well as some of the challenges that you have faced with building the program?

MO: I have been working with Chandler's wine program for a few years now. Last year we added 150 wines to our already good wine list awarding us with the Wine Spectator "Best of Award of Excellence". Our now excellent wine list calls for a Somm program. And our wine team- ALL WOMEN. From the Wine Director for all Schwartz Brothers Restaurants- Victoria Antilla, the Wine Manager for Chandler's Crabhouse- Alexandra Stapleton, to myself and Jeanette Zauner, our up and coming Somm. All encouraged and possible by the mentoring and support of our General Manager Robert Onstad. While we are all smart, strong, bad ass women, we are also nurturing creatures. I think this allows a program to really flourish with the guests dining experience being put first. As opposed to needing to have a wine on a list because it's allocated or had X amount of points or so and so said it was the best wine since sliced bread. Those are all opinions and while it's important to know that information like stats on a card, what's really important is to have foresight as to how something is going to play out in specific situations. Women are just more intuitive that way.

WWB: Do you have any specific future goals in the wine industry?

MO: I love to travel and another great thing about wine are all the amazing places in the world it is grown, so I will always have a goal to travel.
I am currently going through the Court of Masters and after a Master in French Wine through the French Wine Society.

WWB: What are some of your favorite wine pairings with the food from Chandlers such as the signature crab cakes, oysters, and the Whiskey Crab Soup?

MO: How about Charred Octopus and Geoduck Crudo?! A year and a half ago Chandler's acquired chef Thomas Cullen and between him and Robert this restaurant is unstoppable. We've taken the responsibility to our environment to heart and are one of the first 25 restaurants in the Seattle area to become a Smart-Catch restaurant. Not only will you find the area's most iconic food here but you can dine knowing it is sustainable. I don't believe in the fish- white, steak- red rules. EAT AND DRINK LOCAL. It really works. Imposing this philosophy allows guests to take some credit by building off what they already know and like. I do definitely have some favorite pairings though.
I love the Structure Cellars Blueprint White with our spicy Cioppino. It's a meaty white wine, that has minerality and citrus to compliment seafood and herbs, and the acidity is nicely balanced so the spice isn't offset. If you don't like white wine, Pomum Cellars Tempranillo will compliment the smokey flavors and bring this hearty meal full circle.
Chandler's World's Best Crab Cake is a really fun one to pair because the sides change. Right now there is a black truffle aioli that is fantastic with the Gramercy Cellars The Deuce Syrah. There is a funk and earthiness to this wine that lends itself to making the truffles even tastier- if that was possible.
Mark Ryan's Viognier is beautiful and a perfect pairing with the Geoduck Crudo. Delicate tropical fruit and slight floral notes play off the yuzu soy and shaved fresno chilis and jalapeno.
For me, wine isn't just about matching the protein on the plate. Everything should be complimented. I tend to look more at sides when pairing, the time of day, the company.... it's an overall experience.

DeLille Cellars

DeLille is a historic Washington winery that has achieved considerable praise worldwide. I don’t think there is a Washington white wine that impresses me more each year than their Chaleur Estate Blanc. DeLille crafts essentially the best Bordeaux Blanc in the state. This new, 2014, rendition is up there with the best Chaleur Estate Blancs that I’ve had, including the excellent 2008 vintage.
There are other bottlings that were particularly impressive on my last visit to DeLille. Their Doyenne Rose is one of the best Washington Roses that I’ve had this year. It brings wonderful watermelon and cran-cherry flavors that are perfect for a hot summer day. Their 2012 Bordeaux style reds also were hugely impressive. Both the Chaleur Estate Red and the Four Flags Cabernet weighed in at a whopping 95 and 94 points respectively, as they represent some of the highest rated Reds I’ve tried from Washington this year. They will both require at least two more years in the cellar to fully develop. Here are the fantastic new releases, as well as a couple of library wines that I have recently tried from DeLille Cellars. Check out their wines at great Northwest wine shops such as Esquin and Met Market, as well as online at delillecellars.com ‪#‎delillecellars‬

2014 DeLille Rousanne- 100% Rousanne wine that was aged in small percentage in neutral oak but is primarily a stainless wine. Rich perfumed nose with cantaloupe, cut grass and ripe pear. Rich almost oily mouthfeel yields Flavors of honeydew, hazelnuts, pear and green apple. Drinking nicely as of 2015 as this is every bit outstanding and the best Washington expression of the varietal that I’ve had. Drink 2015-2018. -93

2014 DeLille Chaleur Estate Blanc- Year after year this is one of the best, if not the best, Bordeaux style White out of Washingon state. Composed of 75% Sav Blanc and 25% Semillon. The wine was aged in oak, 70% new for 5-6 months. Beautiful nose of starfruit, lemon rind and baked apple. Rich mouthfeel with vanilla, pear, red delicious apple, starfruit and a 30 second long finish. This is very bit outstanding and up there with the 2008 Chaleur Estate Blanc as the best Chaleur Estate Blancs I’ve ever tried. Drink 2015-2022. -95

2014 Doyenne Rose-This is their Grenache dominant Rose and is a limited case production wine. Nose has watermelon, pear, and strawberry. Flavors of cran-cherry, watermelon and vanilla. Drink now, this wine is simply delicious. -92

2013 Doyenne Metier Rouge- This wine is a blend of Mouvedre, Grenache and Syrah. It is crack and pour wine that is just delicious and open out of the bottle. Perfumed nose of rose petals, red cherry and Christmas spice. Palate has red cherry, cran-raspberry, and is fruit driven. Nice mouthfeel with good density. Tasty now, as this doesn’t make sense to cellar this one. Drink 2015-2019. -90

2012 DeLille Chaleur Estate Rouge- This is made from roughly 75% Ciel du Cheval fruit and is a 67% Cabernet wine with the rest Merlot and Cab Franc. The wine has a ripe and open nose with red cherry and red currant with oak. Palate has ripe layers of red cherry, cherry tomato, blackberry and anise. This is incredible juice now but can benefit from 2-5 years of cellaring. This is the best Chaleur Estate Rouge I’ve had. Drink 2017-2030. -95

2012 DeLille Four Flags Cabernet- This follows up their impressive bottling from a colder vintage, 2011. The wine opens with aromas of anise and blackberry with oak on the nose. Rich layers of anise, blackberry and black cherry on the mid-palate. Dark and deep, this wine is compelling and delicious. There is a vibrant mouthfeel that tells me this will be a long-ager. The wine has moderate tannins that persist and will take time to dissipate. Drink 2017-2030- 94

2009 DeLille Doyenne Signature Syrah- This is made from 97.5% Syrah and 2.5% Viognier. With 66% of the Syrah from Grand Ciel, and 31.5% Syrah from Boushey Vineyard
and 2.5% of the wine from Ciel du Cheval Viognier. The nose has anise, smoked meats and black pepper aromas. This wine is richer and more viscous than its 2008 counterpart. The wine brings flavors of blackberry jam, black cherry and black olive with smoked meats. Complex and delicious, as this wine is drinking at its peak. Drink 2015-2017 -93

2008 DeLille Doyenne Signature Syrah- This Syrah contains 2% Viognier, with 30% of the fruit from the famed Boushey Vineyard in Yakima Valley. The wine opens with aromas of oak, cassis and smoked meats. Velvety mouthfeel with nice richness and viscosity. Currently this wine showing ever so slightly past its prime, as the acid structure is slowly dwindling, giving way to flavors of blackberry, black cherry and black olive. Drink 2015-2016. -92

Northstar Winery

It is not everyday that a winery makes a name for itself by producing Merlot. But this is essentially what Northstar has done, despite the Sideways effect – where Sideways lead protagonist Linus loudly proclaims that he is not going to drink any #%$)%* Merlot. Since the movie, Merlot sales immediately plummeted, but sales have improved in recent years.
Northstar was first founded in 1994 at a time when Merlot was the dominant grape in Washington. Current head winemaker since 2005, David “Merf” Merfeld, has been crafting some elegant and rich Merlots. I am impressed with how he approached the colder 2011 vintage. His ‘Premier’ Merlot from 2011 is the highest rated Washington Merlot I’ve rated from that vintage and currently is showing some beautiful balance and black fruit flavors. The new regular release bottling, the 2011 ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot, showcases this colder vintage with a nice dark fruit flavor profile, alongside elegance and balance. Look for Northstar wines at www.northstarwinery.com You can also find their wines at great Northwest wine shops such as Esquin, Met Market and Total Wines. Here are the new releases from Northstar ‪#‎northstarwinery‬

2011 Northstar 'Premier' Columbia Valley Merlot- This colder vintage Merlot needs a one hour decant to open up. In the glass there are aromas of milk chocolate, roasted figs, stewed prune and anise. Lovely minerallity and rich mouthfeel that is very right bank Bordelaise. There are flavors of black cherry, black olive, mocha and cassis. This delicious and dense effort begs for another sip as its of the best Merlots from this vintage. Drink 2015-2028. -93

2012 Northstar Columbia Valley Cabernet-This deep purpled color Cab improves with an hour aeration. There are aromas of cassis, anise, oak and coffee. Lovely mouthfeel and done in the forward style. There are flavors of anise, blackberry, black cherry and a long finish that lingers. This would make a great glass pour at a fine steakhouse. Drink with a juicy ribeye. Drink 2015-2022. -91

2011 Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot-Like its Premier cuvée older brother, this wine needs more than an hour in the decanter to open up. Once aroused it takes on aromas reminiscent of oak, red cherry, sage and dill in this herbaceous nose. The palate is lithe, with vibrant acidity. Flavors of black cherry, vanilla, raspberry and mocha lead to a long finish. This is a tremendous effort considering the coldness of the vintage. Drink 2015-2022. -91

Leonetti Cellar

As the first winery in Walla Walla, founded in 1977, Leonetti Cellar has made a name for itself over the years for its expressive and rich Merlots and Cabernets. The winery is located in a beautiful part of Walla Walla, outside of town. From what began with a small amount of land, over time the Leonetti family has purchased a large parcel of land east of town and the estate is scenic and spacious. Amy Figgins, the daughter of Leonetti’s founder, Gary Figgins, graciously served as our tour guide.

Amy showed us the first small beginnings of their winery. It was a very humble looking building, roughly 300 sq. feet. Things changed with the incredible success that the Figgins family created. The production center now is not only a colossus but is an architectural marvel, up there with the best production and barrel rooms in Napa. It was very exciting to see that Chris Figgins is now experimenting with relatively obscure varietals, such as Aglianico, but is also ageing certain varietals in clay pots. The tour ends with a tasting of both the recent releases of Merlot and Cabernet. The 2013 Merlot is an exquisite effort, up there with the best Merlot ever produced in this estate. This warm vintage wine was the highest rated Merlot that I’ve had this year. The wine is seamless, rich and delicious. It is so great out of the bottle that it would be hard to cellar. After the Merlot I sampled the 2012 Cabernet. This wine was a massive and epic Cabernet, up there with the best Cabernet in the state. The flavors and balance were exquisite. Leonetti is a wine club only winery but you can find their wines at great wine shops like Esquin. Here are some of the fantastic new releases from Leonetti. Learn more about their story at leonetticellar.com #leonetticellar

2013 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- This wine comes from Loess vineyard, Mill Creek vineyard, Upland vineyard as well as Leonetti Old Block. This is a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, with a higher percentage of Cab Franc than I have ever seen being used for this blend, as Cab Franc was most recently used in this blend from 2001-2003 and then in 2009. The wine saw 15 months in new and once filled French oak. The nose begins with aromas of black cherry, prune, cassis, and dill with lightly herbaceous aromatics. The palate has silky texture and wonderful weight. There are flavors of blackberry, red cherry, dill and black plum in this tremendous effort. This serious juice is hard to resist now. Drink 2015-2030-95

2012 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet- This is an intense blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot comes from the Seven Hills vineyard, the Loess vineyard, Mill Creek vineyard, Upland vineyard and Leonetti Old Block. It saw 22 months in new and once used French oak barrels. The winemaker says this wine reminds him of the 2008 Cabernet. In the glass the wine explodes with ripe flavors of Turkish coffee, cassis, black olive and black cherry. There are flavors of anise, crème de cassis, blackberry and moderate tannin structure. The richness and mouthfeel is there. This seamless wine glides on with a long finish. This is a memorable wine. Drink 2015-2035-95

2012 Leonetti Cellars Sangiovese- This wine came from the Seven Hills, Mill Creek, Upland and
Serra Pedace vineyards. It is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 12% Syrah, 8% Aglianico, as this is the first vintage that they have opted for their estate Aglianico. The wine opens with a ripe nose of red currant, red cherry, black pepper and oak. There is a silky and viscous mouthfeel that leads to flavors of red cherry, anise, cranberry with medium tannins. One of the best, if not the best, Washington Sangios out there. Needs another year in the bottle to fully develop, drink in 2016. Drink 2016-2025.- 93

K Vintners and Sixto

Charles Smith is one of the biggest players in Washington wine. This larger than life man has received incredible acclaim for his wines over the years and he has amassed brands such as K Vinters, Sixto, Secco, as well as his famous Charles Smith label wines. While he has traditionally been based in Walla Walla, he is a city man at heart and created an amazing place to taste his wines in south Seattle in the Georgetown district.
Charles Smith has created some of the highest rated Syrahs in North America. His highly rated ‘Royal City’ Syrah has been hailed as one of the best Syrahs out there by critics and somms. His K Vintners label produces a range of impressive bottlings. I was particularly impressed with what he did in both 2012 and 2013, exceptional and ripe vintages. Look for his 2013 K Vintners ‘The Boy’ that impresses with its pretty red fruit flavors. The range of fruit, structure and elegance to the wines were up there with the best in the state. The Syrah releases from K impressed mightily. Sadly, some of their finest wines, such as the Charles Smith ‘Royal City’ Syrah and the K ‘Rockgarden’ Syrah were not available for tasting, as they mentioned that they were only for wine club members or had sold out.
His Sixto bottling impressed as he has chosen three different vineyard sites in Columbia Valley to showcase Chardonnay. These were rich and full bodied Chardonnays with some ageing potential. I was particularly impressed with the 2012 Sixto ‘Rosa Hills’ Chardonnay, which had a rich and buttery fruit flavor profile with crème brulee and ripe pear. Look for K Vintners, Sixto and Charles Smith wines at Metropolitan Market, Esquin, Costco and other great Northwest wine shops or www.charlessmithwines.com ‪#‎charlessmith‬

2014 K Vintners ‘Art Den Hoed Vineyard’ Viognier- This is from the Yakima Valley and spent 6 months ageing on lees with no malolactic fermentation. The vineyard sits at 1300 feet and the wine is sourced from vineyard blocks ranging from 8-14 years old. Aromatics of honeysuckle, pear, red delicious and butter. Bright mouthfeel with a strong acid backbone. Lemon zest, pear, red delicious apple and stardust with a lovely cream finish. Drink 2015-2020. -92

2013 K Vintners ‘The Boy’ Grenache- This wine was sourced from Walla Walla Valley fruit (Northridge and River Rock vineyards) and they utilized 12% Syrah into the blend. This warm vintage wine stands in at 14.5% alcohol, as this wine was Charles Smith’s first non-Syrah wine that he made. Lovely aromatics with aromas of dill, gravel, orange peel, raspberry and red cherry. The mouthfeel is smooth as this seamlessly glides along. There are flavors of red cherry, Mandarin orange, gravel and raspberry. This is novel, terroir driven and simply delicious. Drink 2015-2028. -94

2012 K Vintners 'Guido' Sangiovese- The Sangio is sourced from Jack’s vineyard in the rocky soils of the Walla Walla Valley. This has aromatics of red cherry, smoke and stewed prune. There are flavors of red cherry, dill, strawberry, mushroom, wet stone and rhubarb. This is delicious wine that does not need more time and is a crack and pour. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 K Vintners 'The Deal' Syrah- This is made from Wahluke Slope fruit. This has a dark fruit profile on the nose with blackberry, cassis and smoke. There are flavors of blackberry, blueberry compote, smoked meats, and white pepper. This has a great acid backbone with nice depth and concentration. This generous wine is great right out of the bottle. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2012 K Vinters ‘The Creator’- This is a blend of 70% Cabernet with 30% Syrah from the River Rock and Jack’s Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. Jack’s Vineyard was planted in 1999, relatively ancient for Walla Walla. This wine opens with aromas of red cherry, blackberry, tar, and dill. There are flavors of black cherry, black olive, blackberry with a lovely acid backbone. This has a long life with a lovely minerality. Drink in wither year. Drink 2016-2030. -94

2012 K Vintners ‘Northridge Vineyard’ Merlot- This Wahluke Slope Merlot comes from the Northridge Vineyard, owned by the Milbrandts. It weighs in at 14.5% alcohol and saw 60% new French oak treatment. The wine opens with aromas of red cherry, raspberry and dill. There are lovely flavors of red cherry, dill, raspberry and blueberry. This fruit driven wine delivers. There is a lovely smoothness and texture to this wine. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2012 Charles Smith ‘Broncho’ Malbec- This wine comes from Stoneridge vineyard, located in the northeast corner of Wahluke Slope AVA. This is a warm growing site with a ton of wind. The wine has a dark and inky color. There are rich aromatics of milk chocolate, blackberry, dried sagebrush and and prune. There are flavors of black cherry, black olive, blackberry cobbler and sage. This is dense and delicious. Drink 2015-2025. -92

2012 K Vintners 'Morrison Lane' Syrah- The Morrison Lane vineyard is the oldest vineyard site for Syrah in Walla Walla and was planted in 1994 -- well before most other wineries set foot in Wallyworld. The soil is coarse sand and gravel. The wine opens with dill pickle and blackberry with black pepper and smoked meats on the nose. The mouthfeel is rich and balanced with a lovely acid structure. There are flavors of anise, spice box, blackberry and anise. This delicious wine is open and polished. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Sixto ‘Uncovered’ Chardonnay- This Chardonnay is blended with fruit from Roza Hills, Frenchman Hills and Moxee vineyards. Deep golden hue. Lovely aromatics with pear, golden delicious apple, nutmeg and oak. Rich mouthfeel with a smooth texture and viscosity. Flavors reminiscent of golden delicious apple, pear, butter and a lovely long finish. This is a rock solid bottling. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Sixto ‘Rosa Hills’ Chardonnay- The Rosa Hills vineyard stands at 1350 feet and is a southern sloping bowl that sits on the southern slope of Rattlesnake Hills. There are aromas of brioche, lemon zest and pear. There is nice richness on the mouthfeel with flavors of creme brûlée, pear, golden delicious and a long, lingering finish that lasts for half a minute. This is an impressive bottling. Drink 2015-2025. -94

2012 Sixto ‘Moxee Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This wine comes from nearly 40 year old vines that are under some limestone and silt loam. This wine opens with aromatics of pear, green apple and slightly subdued in the nose. There are flavors of pear, red delicious apple and cream alongside a smooth and velvety mouthfeel. This has a lovely texture and slightly less citrus components than its Frenchman Hills counterpart. Drink 2015-2022. -93

2012 Sixto ‘Frenchman Hills’ Chardonnay- This vineyard is perched at over 1600 feet and is a cool site compared to most in the Wahluke Slope. This vineyard, planted in 1998, has a limestone and basalt base. This is fermented in concrete and aged in French oak. Aromatics of oak, pineapple, golden delicious and lemon zest. There are flavors of peach pit, golden delicious apple, pear and lemon rind. Delicious cream finish. Drink 2015-2023-93

Tenet Wines

Philippe Cambrie grew up studying wine. Having a background in microbiology, Cambrie completed a masters in oenology from the University of Montpelier in 1986. More recently he has gained prominence with his consulting for Rhone wineries such as Domaine Grand Tinel, Bosquet des Papes, Jean Royer and many others. His countryman, Michael Gassier, grew up helping manage his family vineyard in Southern France. Gassier also has a masters in engineering but has been making critically acclaimed wines in the Cotes du Nimes for many years. Tenet wines is a project that combines the eminent Rhone winemaker Michael Gassier with the consulting knowledge of Cambrie and Chateau St. Michelle head winemaker Bob Berthau. These three superstar winemakers have combined to make three wines, Le Fervent (made by Gassier), the Pundit (made by all 3) and the Tenet (made by all 3).

These wines were serious. I was particularly impressed with the value in Le Fervent and The Pundit bottlings, as these wines retail at $25.00. There was lovely terroir and aromatics on Le Fervent bottling, showing a wonderful mineral streak and a saline streak from the Mediterranean climate. The Pundit also impressed with nice richness and depth for the price. The Tenet was a huge and masculine style Syrah that will need another year in the bottle for everything to amalgamate beautifully. Check out these wines at Northwest wine shops such as Met Market, Esquin and Total Wines, as well as tenetwines.com #tenetwines

2013 Tenet ‘Le Fervent’-This wine is a blend of 91% Syrah, 6% Grenache, 2% Mourvèdre, 3% Viognier. Aged 12 months in concrete (67%) and neutral oak (33%) before bottling in January 2015. Michael Gassier has selected Syrah north facing sites in the Cotes du Nimes that impart a strong mineral content. The wine opens with aromas of smoked meats, provencale herbs and beef blood with wet gravel. There are flavors of raspberry, cran-cherry, cooked figs and orange rind. This is complex and delicious with nice richness and a strong mineral streak. Drink 2015-2022. -92 $25.00

 2013 Tenet ‘The Pundit’-The wine is made from 94% Syrah, 3% Grenache, 2% Mourvèdre, 1% Viognier that’s cofermented with Viognier. The wine was aged 12 months in 61% neutral oak with 23% new French oak and 16% new American oak. The resultant Columbia Valley Syrah has an super dark color. There are lovely aromatics of smoked meats, tar, black olive and black cherry. Flavors of blackberry, cloves, black olive and smoked meats. Lovely smooth finish as this one glides. This open and polished dense wine is one to pair with a juicy ribeye and is strikingly familiar to the Ethos style of Syrah. Drink 2015-2022. -92 $25.00

 2013 Tenet ‘Tenet’- This wine is made from 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 25% Mouvedre, this saw 12 months in neutral oak and was bottled in December 2014. This wine is currently slightly more subdued on the nose than the other two wines,  having aromas of blackberry, smoked meats, and cedar. There are flavors of milk chocolate, blackberry jam, tar, and black cherry. This open wine is polished and smooth, with almost a Merlot-like character. Give this dense effort from a hot vintage one more year in the bottle to develop. Drink 2016-20256. -93 $75.00

Darioush

Northern Iran is one of the birthplaces of wine, as records from 5,000 B.C. indicate a nomad culture living there and celebrating wine. Darioush Khaledi was instilled at an early age with the winemaking craft of his father and began collecting fine wine at a young age. He migrated to the United States and owned what was once the largest family-owned grocery store business in California. His passion for wine met its apex in 1997 when he formed Darioush winery.
The tasting experience at Darioush is none other. The palatial tasting room at Darioush is the most opulent setting for wine tasting I’ve seen. There are beautiful carvings throughout the winery and high end details that you need to see for yourself to believe. I can’t imagine how much the bar we sat at must have cost. And that was just the bar. Darioush holds a special tasting of the proprietor’s personal wine collection at the winery for $300.00 but we were there to take in the breathtaking atmosphere and sample the new releases.
The wine has received great critical acclaim over the years. Their 2008 Cabernet Franc (95 WWB) might be the best Napa Cab Franc I’ve ever tried. These new releases were very serious as well. I was blown away with the power, balance and flavor profiles obtained in their 2012 Merlot. This is one to pick up for the cellar or for a special occasion. Their 2012 Cabernet was impressive as well, although a bit shut down for the moment, as was their 2012 Cabernet Franc. Darioush makes some exceptional white wines as well, as their 2013 Chardonnay and 2014 Viognier impressed. Look for these wines at specialty northwest wine shops like Met Market and Esquin. You can also find them at darioush.com. Here are some of the fantastic new releases that I recently sampled at Darioush. ‪#‎darioush‬

2013 Darioush Duel White- This is a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Viognier. It has fragrant aromas of pear, red delicious apple and grapefruit. There is a striking minerality to the wine and lush mouthfeel. Flavors of pear, lychee and green apple lead to a clean finish. Drink 2015-2019. -91

2014 Darioush Viognier- This wine comes from vineyards in Napa Valley and Oak Knoll. It saw 85% neutral French oak, as well as 10% stainless steel barrels. The wine opens nicely in the glass with aromas of honeysuckle, pear and star jasmine. This leads to flavors of cantaloupe, white peach and pear. Nice balance and richness, as this feels fat on the mouth and has a lingering finish. Drink 2015-2020. -93

2013 Darioush Chardonnay- This wine is made from 70 percent new oak and 100 percent malolactic fermentation. The fruit is sourced from vineyards in Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder, Oak Knoll and Los Carneros. Darioush has gained a strong reputation for Chardonnay over the years. This new release is no exception and has the balance and richness of the best in Napa. It offers lovely nose of golden delicious apples, butter and pear, while bringing lively acidity to the mouth. This is balanced and not overdone in the classic Napa style. Flavors of red delicious apple and starfruit add to the bright finish. Hard to resist now. (Best 2015-2022)- 92

2012 Darioush Merlot- Combining 5% Cab and 5% Cab Franc, this wine has cherry tomato, dill and red cherry on the perfumed nose. Flavors of black cherry, anise, and blackberry jam on the opulent palate. The dense mouthfeel leads to a long and lingering finish. Incredible wine, this is the best Napa Merlot I’ve sampled this year. Drink 2015-2030. -95

2012 Darioush Shiraz-This impressive effort was aged 18 months in new Siruge, Damy and François Frères French oak barrels. The dark and inky colored wine opens with aromas of smoked meats, milk chocolate and blackberry. There is a lush mouthfeel with a nice mineral backbone. There are flavors of black tea, black cherry, and smoked meats. Layered and delicious wine that is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2012 Darioush Cabernet- This is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec. Aged 22 months in 85% new Chateau Traditional French oak barrels, the wine comes from estate fruit from Mt. Veeder, Oak Knoll, Napa Valley. There are lovely aromas of red bell pepper, anise and blackberry. Nice richness and viscosity on the mid-palate with a strong mineral backbone. Palate has blackberry, anise, mocha, and graphite with moderate tannins. Layered and rich wine that needs time in the bottle to settle and for the fruit to amalgamate. Drink 2017-2030. -93

2011 Darioush Cabernet- This cold vintage Cabernet is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec. This saw 22 months in French oak barrels and like its 2012 version, it is 100% estate fruit. There are aromas reminiscent of blackberry, black cherry and anise. The palate is acidic, with moderate tannins and needs time for the fruit to integrate. Currently showcasing flavors of blackberry, creme de cassis and black cherry. This has great richness considering the vintage. Drink 2017-2028. -91

2012 Darioush Cabernet Franc- This is 90% Cab Franc with 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet blended in. The nose is herbal, having dried herbs and red bell pepper with red cherry. The palate has nice viscosity and is extremely shut down, as this will need some time. There are flavors predominant of anise, red cherry and blackberry. This is a dense and masculine style Cab Franc. Drink 2017-2030. -93

2012 Capataz- Darioush makes a Malbec that's sourced from sourced from three vineyard estates in Lunlunta, Agrelo and Tupungato, ranging from 14 to over 70 years vine age. The wine opens with aromas of prune, red cherry and cherry tomato. The palate has flavors of cherry tomato, blackberry, and mocha. This is a dense and mineral driven wine. Drink 2015-2025. -92

Dutton-Goldfield Winery

The Dutton Ranch has always been one of the most famous Sonoma sources for Chardonnay. This is the rich and buttery style of Chardonnay that Sonoma has made famous. In 1998 colleagues Steve Dutton and Dan Goldfield decided to start a winery together. Steve Dutton is a 5th generation farmer while Dan has a background in chemistry and later completed the illustrious UC Davis program in winemaking. He had stints at Robert Mondavi and even made wine in Portugal for two years before coming back to California and taking on this project.
I’ve enjoyed Dutton-Golfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnays many years. They appeal with their rich and buttery texture as Dutton Ranch sources from some of the choicest fruit out of Sonoma.

The new releases at Dutton-Goldfield impressed. I was particularly impressed with their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay offerings. Their 2013 ‘Azaya Ranch' Vineyard Pinot Noir was an earthy offering that had great ripe fruit. Their 2013 ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay also impressed with the rich and buttery profile. Many of these wines are not distributed to the Northwest, so you might have to buy them on the Dutton-Goldfield website (http://www.duttongoldfield.com). Some of these wines can be found at Total Wines as well as some specialty Northwest wine shops. Here are the new releases from Dutton-Golfield:

2013 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Chileno Vineyard’ Riesling- The fruit is sourced from a vineyard in windswept northwest Marin. This Kabinette style dry Riesling was fermented in stainless steel and has aromas of has jasmine, pear and red delicious. There is a nice bright acidity which leads to flavors of pear, lychee and gooseberry. This is definitely bone dry. Drink 2015-2020. -88 $25.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Green Valley’ Vineyard Gewurtztraminer- This was planted in a cold nook in the Green Valley, as this is one of the only Sonoma County sites for Gewurtz. The vineyard is located roughly 3 miles out from the winery. This was fermented in stainless tanks before being bottled for six months prior to being released. The wine has a floral nose with rose petals and cut grass alongside lychee. There is nice and bright acidity to this wine, leading to flavors of cantaloupe, pears and lychee. Lovely texture and minerality. Drink 2015-2020 -90 $25.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Pinot Noir-. From the esteemed Dutton Ranch vineyard, the fruit was hand sorted prior to fermentation. This spent 10 months in French oak (40% new) before bottling. The wine opens with a bouquet of cran-raspberry, nutmeg and red cherry with a lovely spice character. Nice minerality and richness on the mouthfeel. On the mid-palate there is cherry tomato, red cherry, raspberry and vibrant mineality. The acid backbone is suggestive of a long-ageing wine. Drink 2015-2028. -91 $40.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Angel Camp' Vineyard Pinot Noir- This wine comes from the Angel Camp vineyard located in Philo in the Anderson Valley. This saw 11 months in French oak (50% new) and was bottled in August 2014. The nose has Christmas spice, red cherry and dill. Palate has cran-cherry, and raspberry. Slightly shut down, needs at least another year. Tangy wine. Drink 2016-2022. -91 $40.00

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Azaya Ranch' Vineyard Pinot Noir- This wine is made from a northwest Marin County vineyard. This opens with aromas of Christmas spice and red cherry followed by flavors of cran-raspberry, mushroom and red cherry. Drink 2015-2022. -92$58.00

2012 Dutton-Goldfield 'Cherry Ridge' Vineyard Syrah- This vineyard is in the Green Valley, north of the Petaluma Wind Gap. This wine was not made in 2010 or 2011 due to coldness of the vintages and ripening issues. This saw 20 months in French oak (40% new). The wine opens with aromas reminiscent of white pepper and smoked meats. Palate has red cherry, white pepper and green bell pepper. This is somewhat shut down at the moment and needs time to express fruit. Drink 2016-2025. -91

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Dutton ranch' Chardonnay- Dutton Ranch farms over 80 vineyards in Sonoma. The vineyards selected for this wine include 75% of old vine Chardonnay, over 30 years of age and includes the Mill Station, Walker Hill and Rued vineyards. The wine opens with aromas of buttered popcorn and mango with pear on the nose. Palate has mushroom, pear, golden delicious and vibrant minerality. This is classic Dutton Ranch in the hedonistic style. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2013 Dutton-Goldfield 'Rued Vineyard' Chardonnay- The Rued vineyard is located in an east facing hillside in Green Valley. The vineyards was planted in 1969 and is one of the oldest Sonoma sites for Chardonnay. The wine opens with aromas of pear and pineapple, with golden delicious. Palate has pear, red delicious and starfruit with minerals. Delicious wine that would pair exceptionally well with turkey on Thanksgiving Day. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2014 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Shop-Block’ Pinot Blanc- This Green Valley wine is from a cool site, planted in 2003, that has sandy soils and utilizes dry farming. The wine has a bouquet of bright pear, starfruit and red delicious. Palate has red delicious, vibrant minerality and pear. This seems like a wonderful wine for summer and is novel. Up there with the best Pinot Blanc in Sonoma. Drink 2015-2020. -90

Interview with Victoria Antilla, Wine Director at Chandler's Crabhouse

Chandler's Crabhouse is a northwest favorite for great seafood since 1988. They have been one of my favorite places in Seattle for extraordinarily tasty crab cakes and they make an incredible whiskey crab sou as well. Their wine list has achieved serious acclaim, as they have achieved the award of excellence from Wine Spectator every year since 2008 (wine list: http://www.schwartzbros.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/CCH-wine-list-8.21.2015.pdf). Wine Director, Victoria Antilla has created a Northwest-centric list that has great produces such as Long Shadows, L'Ecole No. 41 and Alexandria Nicole. The pricing is also very reasonable. Great wine by the glass options include the 2014 Alexandria Nicole 'Crawford Vineyard' Viognier ($14.00) or the 2012 L'Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay ($12.00), as well as the 2009 Five Star Cellars Cabernet ($16.00) and the 2010 Hedges Red Blend ($13.00). On the bottle list relative bargains include the 2012 Sbragia 'Home Ranch' Chardonnay ($65.00) as well as the 2013 Long Shadows Poet's Leap ($50.00) and the 2012 McCrea Cellars ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Viognier ($64.00). On the red side there are good values aplenty with the 2009 Five Star Cellars Cabernet ($64.00), the 2012 King Estate Pinot Noir ($68.00) or for a splurge try the 2013 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ ($105.00), one of the best Super Tuscan Washington Blends out there.

Chandler’s happy hour is also one of the best in Seattle, serving up some fantastic calamari and ceviche. As part of our somm series, I recently had the chance to sit down with Chandler's Crabhouse Wine Director, Victoria Antilla. Vitoria has a management background but fell in love with wine and wanted to become a wine director. She is a fan of the big Washington producers but has a soft spot for French wines as well!

Check out their menu and great wine list at http://www.schwartzbros.com/chandlers-crabhouse/ #chandlerscrabhouse

WWB: What made you want to decide to become a sommelier?

 VA: Wine brings many of subjects I find most interesting together. History, Geology, Sociology,  Chemistry, Botany and more.  Working as a server and bartender exposed me to wine and how much the right wine added to a mealMy first bottle of exceptional wine, 1986 Vieux Telegraph,  Chateau Neuf de Pape turned my interest into a passion.

WWB: What were some of your first jobs in wine like?

VA: My path to wine on a personal level has been intentional, professionally has been much a matter of 'right place right time'. I had resisted going into restaurant management with the intent to go back to school to pursue a degree in brain science, however a wrist injury sidelined my ability to work the floor for several months.  During that time I worked as a manager for Chandler's Crabhouse and discovered and aptitude for it.  The job was made doubly appealing as there was a vacuum of wine knowledge on the management staff and I given the role of store wine director. During that time I was able to take advantage of educational opportunities and attend trade events giving me much needed exposure to wines from around the world

WWB: How did you decide to come to Chandler's Crabhouse?

VA: Schwartz Brothers is a great company to work for, in addition to offering benefits to all full time employees, they also promote from within whenever possible.

WWB: Can you talk about the obstacles in gaining your somm certification and what the process was like for you?

VA: My role as Wine Director for Schwartz Brothers in combination with my role as General Manager leaves little study time. On a positive side, I have the privilege of being exposed to some of the best wine and wine professionals in the world.

WWB: Chandlers has an incredibly impressive wine list, one that's particularly strong with selections from Washington, Oregon and California. What were some of the goals in crafting this exceptional wine list?

VA: The list at Chandler's is so much fun to work with as the clientele is composed largely of tourists from all over the world.  Most of our out of town guest are looking to be introduced to Washington wine, while many of our world travelers enjoy something more familiar to them. Most of our wine sales at Chandler's fall in the $50-$80 price range, I love the challenge of finding the best offering from each region that will pair best with the phenomenal seafood served there.

WWB: Any chances to strengthen the list with more Washington producers? Who are some of your favorite producers of Washington wine?

 VA: Inventory space is limited, so usually if we add a producer, it means we have selected one to go. The in house inventory is over 65% percent Washington wine. Much of the high end Bordeaux and CA wine is cellared at our sister restaurant Daniel's just across the parking lot. Of course we continue to evolve the list, and as we are exposed to more great new up and coming Washington wineries, some will make to the list. Current personal WA wineries are Avennia, Gramercy Cellars,  Chateau Rollat and Reynvaan Family Vineyards. But ask me again next week

Januik/Novelty Hill Winery

Januik/Novelty Hill

It has been a while since I’ve reviewed wines from Januik and Novelty Hill, so I needed a fresh report. These new releases, primarily from the 2012 and 2013 vintages are some of the best yet. Recently I had the chance to try the full current lineup of red and white wines at Januik/Novelty Hill. I found that the overall quality of their wines to be exemplary. One of the novel aspects of tasting at Januik is that they produce a wide variety of reds – everything from Syrah to Cab Franc. All their wines are so good that they tend to sell out soon. Their releases from the 2012 vintage were impressive, considering near perfect growing season. Their 2013 releases seem to be on par, as 2013 was a hot and exceptional growing season in eastern Washington.
The head winemaker, Mike Januik, was formerly the winemaker at Chateau St. Michelle. He wanted to run his own show so he created an iconic winery less than a mile down the road from St. Michelle. For those who have never visited this tasting room, it is a northwest architectural marvel and a must see. His son, Andrew Januik, is now a winemaker and debuts his impressive 2012 Cabernet called ‘Stone Cairn.’ Their single vineyard wines can only be found at their winery. Here are some of the great red wines that I recently tried at Januik/Novelty Hill winery. Check out these impressive releases at noveltyhilljanuik.com or find their wines at Costco, Total Wines, Met Market or other great northwest wine shops. ‪#‎januik‬ ‪#‎noveltyhill‬

2013 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc- This wine impresses each year for the price. It has aromas of pear, orange blossom and cantaloupe on the nose. This has a lively, mineral based mid-palate, leading to flavors of pear, honeydew and red delicious. This is the quintessential refreshing summer wine for a hot day. -90

2014 Januik 'Sagemoor Vineyard' Sauvignon Blanc- The Sagemoor vineyard is known for high quality red varietals but Januik has sourced some Sav Blanc here. Perfumed nose of lemongrass, honeydew, Meyer lemon and pear. The mineral driven mouthfeel has nice lushness. Flavors of green papaya, white flowers, grapefruit and pear components. Nicely astringent with good tang. Would be a hit with sushi. -90

2013 Novelty Hill 'Stillwater Creek Vineyard' Viognier- This is Stillwater Creek wine remains one of the best sites in the state for Viognier. It opens with a perfumed nose of jasmine, pear and starfruit. The palate has nice richness and depth. There are flavors of pear, green apple and honeydew. Delicious wine to enjoy in the summer. -90

2013 Novelty Hill 'Stillwater Creek Vineyard' Rousanne-This is a blend of 91% Rousanne with 9% Marsanne. Fragrant aromas of star jasmine, golden delicious apple, pear and nutmeg. Mouthfeel has nice richness as this is fat on the tongue. Leads to flavors of white peach, ripe pear, red delicious apple and starfruit. Nicely tropical and delightful expression of the varietal. -91

2013 Novelty Hill 'Stillwater Creek Vineyard' Chardonnay- This wine has a pale color with greenish hue. The wine impresses for the price year after year. Aromas reminiscent of pear, Granny Smith Apple and baking spices. Nice richness with the mouthfeel. Flavors of red delicious, pear and a nice vanilla cream finish. Straightforward style and delicious. -90

2013 Januik 'Stillwater Creek Vineyard' Chardonnay- This one was selected from a panel of esteemed sommeliers to be poured at the U.S. open golf tournament. It starts with aromas of pear, nutmeg and red delicious apple. Nice mouthfeel in this refreshing white. Flavors of Granny Smith apple persist, alongside pear, and cantaloupe. Lovely minerality in this refreshing side of Chard to pair with Thai green papaya salad. -91

2012 Novelty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Grenache- This wine opens with a bright nose with strawberry, cherry, and blood orange. There is a smooth mouthfeel which leads to flavors of plum, vanilla, strawberry and red cherry. Delicious wine that is meant for early consumption, as the flavors have already connected nicely. This is Mike Januik’s creativity at its finest. -92

2012 Novelty Hill Merlot- This is Merlot is blended with 3% Cabernet. Lighter purple hue with aromas reminiscent of oak, vanilla, red cherry and boysenberry. Mouthfeel is smooth and elegant, leading to rich flavors of black cherry, blackberry and figs. This is one that impresses for the price. Drink 2015-2020. -91

2013 Januik Merlot- This is all Columbia Valley fruit with 4% Cabernet blended in. Lovely nose with dill, oak, vanilla, cloves and red cherry, as you can really get the oak in there. Lovely texture with flavors of red cherry, boysenberry preserves and blackberry with some black olive. Delicious and lithe wine that is drinking nicely now. Drink 2015-2022. -91

2012 Novelty Hill Cabernet- This is their Columbia Valley bottling which is blended with 8% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. This wine impresses with aromas of anise, cassis, oak and dill. Mouthfeel is smooth with nice density. Flavors of black olive, blackberry compote, and blueberry with a light graphite component over mild tannins. Drinking well now. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Januik 'Weinbau Vineyard' Cabernet- Dark core to the wine leading to aromas of mocha, blackberry and oak. Rich mouthfeel with Flavors of cassis, anise, blackberry and black olive. This is refined with w long finish. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Januik ‘Champoux Vineyard’ Cabernet- This impressive wine with a 2% splash of Malbec opens with aromas reminiscent of oak, red cherry, vanilla and blackberry. Palate has nice density and depth in the mouthfeel. Flavors of blackberry, anise, black cherry and vanilla. This wine is delicious now but should cellar for 1-2 more. Drink 2016-2022. -93

2012 Januik 'Red Mountain' Cabernet- This is a blend of 90% Cabernet with 6% Merlot and 4% Cab Franc. Aromas reminiscent of dill, red cherry, red bell pepper and oak. This is slightly firm at this juncture, with mild tannins but the fruit will need more time to integrate. Currently showing fruit flavors of red cherry, blackberry and prune. Give this slightly more feminine style Red one another year. Drink 2016-2022. -92

2012 Januik 'Ciel du Cheval' Cabernet- This wine from the esteemed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard was blended with 12% Merlot. Aromas of black cherry, anise, cassis, and oak. Mouthfeel is viscous with light tannins. Rich flavors persist of blackberry, anise, black cherry, vanilla and red bell pepper in this slightly vegetal but highly delicious Cab. Drink 2015-2020. -92

2012 Andrew Januik ‘Stone Cairn’ Cabernet- Made from Mike Januik’s son, Andrew, this wine is sourced from the Quintessence and Shaw Vineyards in Red Mountain. The wine has nice oak, blackberry and prune on the nose. Palate has nice richness. Red cherry, plum, blackberry, and anise pervade on the palate. This wine is drinking deliciously now. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Novellty Hill ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah – This lovely wine opens with aromas of black cherry, blackberry and blueberry. The palate has flavors of black olive, blackberry, black cherry and is open and delicous. This represents as wonderful Columbia Valley wine. Drink 2015-2020. -92

2012 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Malbec- Like its 2012 namesake, this wine is ready for immediate consumption. It opens with lovely aromas of blackberry, blueberry and oak. Flavors of blackberry, chocolate and blueberry lead to a rich and dense mouthfeel. This rich wine will drink nicely until 2022. -92

2013 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Malbec- This Malbec has been blended with 5% Cabernet. In the glass it begins with aromas of black cherry, cocoa powder and blackberry. Rich mouthfeel with smooth mouthfeel, leading to flavors of anise, creme de cassis, blackberry pie and milk chocolate. Simply delicious now, a fantastic expression of the varietal. Drink 2015-2022. -93

2012 Novelty Hill 'Stillwater Creek Vineyard' Sangiovese-This beautiful red colored wine opens in the glass with lovely red fruit aromas of strawberry, red cherry and raspberry with oak. This medium bodied red has nice smoothness and uniqueness for the varietal. Flavors of red cherry, dill and raspberry persist. This is designed for short term consumption and is one of the best Washington Sangioveses I’ve had in the past 10 years. Drink 2015-2018. -91

2012 Januik ‘Ciel du Cheval Vineyard’ Petite Verdot- This is a 70 case production wine from Red Mountain. Lovely vegetal nose with thyme, green pepper, and blackberry on the nose. The palate has flavors of green bell pepper, blackberry, black olive and white pepper. Delicious and novel for Washington state. Drink 2015-2021. -92

2012 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Cab Franc- This wine has a deep purple hue and opens with aromas of white pepper, blackberry, oak and blueberry on the nose. Nice density on the mid-palate, which leads to lovely flavors of blueberry, blackberry, and raspberry. Smooth and delicious. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2012 Januik Reserve Red Blend- This wine explodes with ripe aromas reminiscent of blackberry, anise and black cherry. There is nice richness and density on the palate, which leads to flavors of blackberry, anise, black olive and tar. This outstanding wine will have a long life. One of the best Januik Reserves I’ve had in the pat 10 years. Drink 2015-2026. -94

2012 Januik ‘Weinbau Vineyard’ Syrah- This wine opens with aromas of smoked meats with oak and blackberry. The palate has flavors of vanilla, blackberry, smoked meats and black cherry. Drink this delicious wine now. Drink 2015-2020. -92

2012 Januik 'Ciel du Cheval Vineyard' Syrah- The wine has a deep purple core leading to aromas of baking spices, white pepper, smoked meats and blackberry. Velvety texture with flavors of blackberry, black olive, smoked pork shoulder and vanilla. Excellent array of flavors, with the backbone to age for another 5 plus. Drink 2015-2022. -92

2013 Januik 'Weinbau Vineyard' Syrah- In the glass the wine opens with lovely aromas of black cherry, black tea and smoke. Lovely texture and persistence but the wine will need some time for the fruit to come together. Flavors of blackberry, black olive and crushed rocks give it an earthier appearance. Drink 2016-2022. -91

Merryvale Vineyards

Merryvale’s story actually first begins in 1933. Originally called Sunnyhill Winery, the winery produced bulk wine into the 70s when Christian Brothers bought the winery. Then in 1983 the first red table wine called ‘Merryvale’ was produced and a few years later Bill Harlan bought the production facility in St. Helena. Moving forward to 1988, the winery was renamed ‘Sunny St. Helena’ which was renamed to ‘Merryvale’ in 1991. Merryvale is known for good quality Sauvignon Blanc and their famous red blend ‘Profile.’ Winemaker Simon Faury carefully hand sorts each grape in crafting his wines. On my visit, I was particularly impressed with their new release of Sauvignon Blanc, which had bright fruit and nice effervescence.
Faury also made one of the Napa Malbecs I’ve tried from the esteemed 2012 vintage. He also nailed it with his 2012 Carneros Pinot Noir which is bursting with ripe red fruit flavors. Look for the rock solid lineup of Merryvale wines at great Northwest wine shops like Total Wines, Pete’s Wine Shop and Esquin. Here are the new releases from Merryvale ‪#‎merryvalevineyeards‬

2013 Merryvale Sauvignon Blanc-The wine was aged in 90% neutral oak and is blended with 11% Semillon. It was sourced from the Juliana, Riverview, Larkmead, and Bentz vineyards. Lovely aromas begin with grapefruit, starfruit and gooseberry. Palate has starfruit, Meyer lemon and grapefruit. Lively and delicious, one of the best Napa Sav Blancs I’ve tried this year. Drink 2015-2018. -92

2013 Merryvale Carneros Chardonnay- Sourced primarily from the Stanley Ranch vineyards, as well as select lots from the esteemed Hyde vineyard. The wine spent 10 months in French oak barrels, and underwent native malolactic fermentation. It opens with aromas of buttered popcorn, pear and mushroom on the nose. Flavors of pear and red delicious with mushroom persist with vibrant minerality and rich mouthfeel. Drink 2015-2020. -91

2012 Merryvale Carneros Pinot Noir- This wine was sourced from their Estate Vineyard on the historic Stanly Ranch, Amaral, Mitsuko, Saintsbury, and Huichica Hills vineyards. It represents an excellent value for Calfornia Pinot. The wine opens with lovely aromatics of nutmeg, red cherry, oak and red currant. Flavors of cherry cola, raspberry and cranberry persist. This lithe quaff is simply delicious now as I can’t see any point in cellaring it. Drink 2015-2020 -92

2012 Merryvale ‘Stanley Ranch’ Pinot Noir- The Stanley Ranch is known for capturing great Pinot Noir fruit. The wine saw 18 months in French oak barrels (70% new). The winemaker captured the essence of the Burgundian style here with mushroom and forest floor on the nose, alongside raspberry and red cherry. The palate has flavors of raspberry, red cherry and mushroom. Nice density and weight, alongside vibrant minerality. Drink 2016-2022 -92

2012 Merryvale Merlot- This wine opens with more of a herbal nose with milk chocolate, black cherry and dill. There are flavors of raspberry, black cherry and milk chocolate. Delicious, with a striking minerality and moderate tannins that will dissipate in a few years, as this is somewhat shut down for the moment. Drink 2017-2027. -92

2010 Merryvale Cabernet-This wine is composed of 78% Cabernet, 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 5% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot and is farmed from their Estate Vineyard located in the hills high above the town of St. Helena, as well as fruit from other great Napa vineyards, including Salvador, Linda Vista, Stagecoach, Sugarloaf, Broken Rock, Kenefick, and Larkmead. The wine was aged for 23 months in 50% new French oak barrels. It opens with lovely red bell pepper with blackberry and anise on the nose. Powerful and mineral driven wine with flavors of anise, black olive and black cherry. Balanced and drinking beautifully now. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2012 Merryvale Saint Helena Cabernet- This wine was sourced from Merryvale's St. Helena Estate Vineyard which lies on an eastern ridge overlooking the Napa Valley at almost on thousand feet elevation. Made of 90% Cabernet, with the rest Bordeaux varietals. The wine opens with lovely aromatics reminiscent of anise, blackberry and cassis with coffee on the nose. Palate has anise and graphite with blackberry, black cherry, black olive and creme de cassis. Delicious but needs a ton of time. Drink 2018-2028. -93

2011 Merryvale 'Profile'- In this year they opted for an interesting blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 19% Petit Verdot, 15% Malbec. This blend is made from their choicest fruit farmed from the Stagecoach vineyard and the Kenefick vineyard, as well as nearly half from their Schlatter Family Estate Vineyard. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation, was racked twice, and aged 20 months in French oak barrels (90% new, 10% second fill) before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. The wine opens with aromas reminiscent of red bell pepper, spicebox and milk chocolate. Palate has anise, crème de cassis, blackberry, mocha and is done in the backwards style. This reminds me of a great Pauillac from a cold vintage like 2007 or 2011. Herbaceous and mineral driven wine that will need some time for the fruit to integrate. Drink 2019-2035. -93

2012 Merryvale Malbec- This impressive wine was sourced from a high elevation vineyard on the Mayacamas Mountains. This is the first Merryvale Malbec ever made. Fruit was hand picked and double sorted before going under cold soak. The wine opens with a dense nose of dark chocolate and blackberry. Palate has nice density with blackberry, mocha and graphite. Very impressive wine and one of the best pure Napa Malbecs I’ve had this year. Drink 2015-2027 -93

Baer Winery

Baer Winery, founded by Lance Baer, is a story about a man with a passion for winemaking. What started with 200 case production grew to 3000 because of the quality of the winemaking. Before Lance’s tragic death, his wines gained worldwide acclaim and helped put Washington Merlot and Cab Franc on the map with his impressive blend, Ursa.
Lance used choice fruit from Stillwater Creek Vineyard when few were sourcing from there. Following his death, Lance's father Les, and sister Lisa, took over the winery. During my recent tasting at Baer, Lisa poured for me and talked about her experience in the winery. Lance would be incredibly proud for the 2008 Baer Ursa being named the #6 Wine of the Year in Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of the Year. This wine also put superstar winemaker Erica Orr on the map.
Orr has a masters degree from the famed wine program at UC Davis and trained at Napa heavyweights Corison and Cain. Today she continues to utilize great fruit from Stillwater Creek Vineyard to make her impressive Washington Red Blends. My recent visit to Baer impressed, as their 2012 releases were showing very well. Their 2011 releases were also impressive, considering the coldness of the vintage. Their 2011 Ursa was recently poured at the US Open golf tournament! Here are my new reviews from Baer. ‪#‎baerwinery‬

2014 Baer Shard-This is a 100% unoaked Chard that is sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. It opens with aromas of banana, green apple and pear on the nose. Nice minerality and smooth mouthfeel that leads to flavors of pear, honeydew and cut grass with green apple. Great effort. -91

2012 Baer Star- This wine saw 22 months in French oak and is a blend of 75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. A softer style of wine with a plush mouthfeel. Flavors of black cherry, black tea and black olive. Deep and rich with a long life ahead of it. Drinking nicely now but can improve. Drink 2017-2028. -93

2011 Baer Urasa-A blend of 43% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot, 8% Malbec, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is one impresses each year and this colder vintage example is no exception. It saw 20 months in French oak and has developed a feminine nose of rose petals and red cherry. This reticent style yields flavors of black olive, black tea, blueberry and creme de cassis. Beautifully made wine, one of the better Cab Franc wines from this vintage. Drink 2017-2025. -92

2011 Baer Callisto- This 254 case production wine is an intriguing blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah, 10% Petit Verdot. It saw 19 months of French oak and has been bottled for nearly 2 years. The nose has anise and black tea elements followed by raspberry, red cherry and blackberry Flavors. Needs two plus years for the fruit to fully integrate. Drink 2017-2025. -91

2012 Baer Arctos- This is their Cab dominant wine is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot. This opens with aromas of black cherry, anise and blackberry. Flavors of blackberry, cassis persist. As of now, this shut down with a vibrant acid backbone. Drink 2017-2028. -92

Avennia

Avennia

One of the premier boutique Washington wineries out there, Avennia hit a high standard with their recent release of wines. Superstar winemaker Chris Peterson, was winemaker at DeLille Cellars and was hired by Avennia owner Marty Taucher to be head winemaker at Avennia. The wine at Avennia is so good that it always sells out. It was not an easy beginning for Avennia, as their first vintages were during difficult, colder growing seasons of 2010 and 2011 -- yet the wines still impressed.  Their recent releases from 2012 are rich and balanced, coming from an exceptional vintage. I was particularly impressed with their new wine from 2013 called Les Trouves, made from declassified wine from around the state. Considering the price point of under 20 bucks, this thing is going to be a huge hit with Northwest wine lists. Check out their new releases at avennia.com. Here are the stellar new wines from Avennia:

 2014 Avennia ‘Oliane’ Sauvignon Blanc-They elected to store some in concrete and this is their first year they have incorporated new oak, neutral oak and concrete. Aromas of honeydew, cantaloupe and beeswax. Rich mouthfeel with vibrant acidity. Flavors of green papaya, cantaloupe, Meyer lemon, and cut grass, almost like they added a touch of Semillon. The finish lingers.  Drink 2015-2019. -91

2013 Avennia 'Justine' GSM Blend- Grenache domainant wine with 47% Grenache, 38% Mouvedre and 15% Syrah. Lovely aromatics of rose petals, provencale herbs, raspberry and smoked meats. Lovely mouthfeel with flavors of black cherry, tar, raspberry and raspberry ganache flavors. A feminine Rhone blend that finishes long with vanilla cherry.  Nice viscosity, and ripeness reminiscent of a hot vintage. Drink 2015-2025. -93

2013 Avennia ‘Arnaut’ Syrah- This is a Bouchey Vineyard Syrah with no blending involved, sourced from old blocks of the vineyard. 15% whole cluster fermentation which adds to the complexity of the wine. Perfumed nose of rose petals, bacon fat and smoked pork shoulder. Incredible mouthfeel, smooth and silky texture that glides into flavors of black cherry, black olive, raspberry and smoke. You can tell this comes from a very warm vintage. This has a long finish that lingers. Hard to resist now but could improve with another year in the bottle. Drink 2015-2025. -95

2012 Avennia ‘Gravura’- This is a stylish Bordeaux style wine with close to equal parts of Cabernet and Merlot. The name originates from the soil character in the wine. Nose has anise and mocha with oak. Rich and dense mouthfeel in this wine with lovely texture. The palate explodes with rich flavors of blackberry, anise, cassis and has nice depth. This has the acid structure for many years in the bottle but gives great pleasure now Drink 2015-2025 -92

 2012 Avennia Sestina- This is a Cabernet heavy blend with 19% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc added. They’ve used Red Willow 85 block Cabernet showing through. Perfumed nose of gravel, blackberry and dried herbs as well as slight vegetal quality. Rich mouthfeel with light dusty tannins. Flavors of blackberry, black olive, black cherry and a long finish that lingers. Viscosity and richness is there. Cellar for a year or two more. Drink 2017-2030 on. -93

2013 Les Trouves Red- This is an unknown blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre that the winery leaves as a mystery to the consumer. Based on my testing, I’d speculate a higher percentage of Grenache,  rather than Syrah, as this has lovely fineness and this is on the more feminine side. Made from declassified barrels from around the state, this wine has a light red color with a brownish hue. Lovely nose with provencale herbs, anise and raspberry. The mid palate offers a polished mouthfeel that asks for another glass. The flavors of raspberry, spicecake, and vanilla cherry. the winery owner views as a crack and pour. Delicious now, drink 2015-2020.  -91

Interview with Bailey Fortuna, Sommelier at Pearl and Ash

Interview with Bailey Fortuna, Sommelier at Pearl and Ash NYC

Pearl and Ash is a famed wine bar, located in the Bowery district in downtown Manhattan. Recently awarded the Grand Award from Wine Spectator, I recently enjoyed a fantastic dining experience there. What set this wine bar apart was the incredible array of selections from around the world. Boasting over 21000 wine selections, the wine list is particularly strong in the areas of Burgundy, Champagne and California. There were a few Washington selections that impressed as well. The pricing for the wine was reasonable, considering the NYC real estate. The food was also delectable, and well-priced, if a bit minimalist.

Bailey Fortuna serves as sommelier at Pearl and Ash. She’s got a bartending background but fell in love with wine and became a somm. Bailey waited on me during my visit to Pearl and Ash, and has an incredible knowledge of wine. I also found her wine service to be exceptional. As part of my somm interview series, here is my recent conversation with Bailey Fortuna,  sommelier at Pearl and Ash, NYC. http://www.pearlandash.com/ #pearlandash

WWB: What made you want to decide to become a sommelier?

BF: My decision to become a sommelier was, frankly, more of a seemingly logical progression than it was passion based. The passion came later. I was originally hired at Pearl & Ash as a bartender. I already had an enthusiasm for spirits, mostly whiskey, gin, and amaros but when I found out Pearl didn’t have a liquor license I used it as an excuse to dive into the world of wine based aperetifs and digestifs. The staff education at Pearl is also unlike anywhere I have ever worked. We are constantly tasting new things and discussing about them as a group which really got me thinking about wine in a way that I never had before. Finally, the real moment I decided I could be a somm was over a glass of Tissot Macvin Blanc du Jura, I had never tasted anything like it. It was the first wine I couldn’t stop thinking about for days after.

WWB: What were some of your first jobs in wine like?

BF: My very first job in wine was at Pearl & Ash as a cellar intern. Prepping the cellar for incoming items, receiving orders and as often as possible blind tasting with the entire team of somms and interns.  While originally interviewing for the internship Patrick had mentioned he felt moving bottles in a cellar was the best way to learn and now I absolutely agree. I’d spend my days moving bottles and nights going home and researching everything I had my hands on that day. Coupled with the education and encouragement provided by Bryn Birkhahn and Kimberly Prokoshyn, the two somms at the time, my knowledge grew exponentially over the next year.

WWB: How did you decide to come to Pearl and Ash?

BF: Truthfully, I answered a Craig’s List ad for a bartending job. I had just moved back to the city from Chicago and was still figuring out what to do next. After reading a few write-ups about the restaurant I was intrigued. I guess the rest is history!

WWB: Can you talk about the obstacles in gaining your somm certification and what the process was like for you?

BF: That’s actually a process I am currently in the midst of. Over the past year I have been debating whether or not to go through with the certification exam. There seems to be a clear split over whether or not it is necessary. I finally decided to take my intro, which will happen next month, and will decide how far to go after that is completed. Though I do think having the knowledge and experience is ultimately more important, I also respect the Court and would be very proud to be a part of it.

WWB: Pearl and Ash has an incredibly impressive wine list, one that's particularly strong with selections from Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux, as well as both Northern and Southern Rhone and California. What were some of the goals in crafting this exceptional wine list?

BF: Though I didn’t have much part in crafting the current list, what I’ve learned from Patrick and Bryn while watching it come together is that balance is key. It’s so important, especially in those seemingly well know areas such as Burgundy and California, to not only focus on the names people will recognize but also use the list as a vehicle to show people something new. The most exciting part of my job is introducing wines and winemakers to people who might not have thought to look outside regions they normally stick within. You like to drink old Burgundy, how about a Biodynamically grown Chinon that tastes like beautifully aged Burgundy for half the price? The big names sit side by side with the little guys and it becomes less about finding a trophy bottle and more about trying something outside of your comfort zone!

WWB: Any chances to strengthen the list with more Washington producers? Who are some of your favorite producers of Washington wine?

BF: We’re constantly expanding the wine list and I think strengthening our New World offerings, outside of California, is definitely a priority. Some of my favorites out of Washington would have to be Figgins, ...Pursued by Bear, Gramercy Cellars, and Charles Smith. I’ve noticed a great range of funky to finessed coming out of the state and look forward to the future of Washington wines!

Chalk Hill

Chalk Hill

A few weeks back I had the opportunity to visit the historic estate at Chalk Hill. Founded in 1972, their tasting room overlooks their beautiful and picturesque vineyards. The long journey through their impressive tasting lineup was guided by a former Gonzaga University professor who decided to move to the Sonoma area after a long career of teaching.  Proprietor Bill Foley is one of the bigger names in California wines. The University of Washington law school grad (1974) has amassed 13 wineries all over the world, including Chalk Hill estates. Chalk Hill is particularly known for their Chardonnay and they poured three of their famous Chardonnays side by side to see the difference in flavor profile based on the clones. 

Their 2012 reds were rich, tannic and nowhere near drinking window but hit you in the head with intensity and depth. Named after their proprietor, their $160 retail 2012 William Foley Cabernet has potential to be a magnificent wine, with classic blackberry and creme de cassis flavors. Many Chalk Hill wines aren't distributed in the northwest but you can find their Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay at northwest wine shops, some QFCs and higher end supermarkets like Metropolitan market. Here are some of the fantastic new releases from Chalk Hill. 

 2012 Chalk Hill North Slope Pinot Gris-The winery only bottling was made with neutral oak, but you wouldn’t tell that from the nose. In the glass you notice aromas of buttered toast, pear and golden delicious. Nice minerality that leads to flavors of pear, red delicious and lychee. The brightness of this wine stands out. -90

 2013 Chalk Hill Estate Sauvignon Blanc- One of their more famous bottlings that is a lovely expression of Sav Blanc and one of the best in the valley. The nose opens with gooseberry and grapefruit which leads to bright acidity and rich mouthfeel. Flavors of green apple, grapefruit and lemon zest persist in this nicely layered wine. This is one to buy by the case. -92

 2013 Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay- This is their most popular bottling of Chardonnay that is comprised of a combination of 16 clones of Chardonnay. The wine opens with aromas of buttered popcorn, pear and golden delicious apple. Nice density and weight, leading to flavors of pineapple, pear and golden delicious with brioche. Like their Sav Blanc, this is nicely balanced with minerality. Drink now.  -92

 2012 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Clone 17-This one is a winery only bottling that has a different, more earthy, nose than the Estate bottling. The aromas are reminiscent of has mushroom, and forest floor, alongside golden delicious and pear. Exceptional brightness in this mineral driven effort. Nice richness on the mouthfeel, leading to flavors of golden delicious, pear and a long cream finish. This is one of the best Sonoma Chardonnay bottlings I’ve sampled this year. Drink now. -94

 2012 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Clone 809- Somewhat atypical to both the other Chards, the wine has more of a tropical fruit nose that reminds of me apricot, pineapple and some golden delicious apple. Generous mouthfeel with good persistence, leading to flavors of pineapple, golden delicious and a long cream finish. Nice richness and depth from this wine that is a slight step behind its Clone 17 counterpart. -92

 2013 Chalk Hill Rose- This 250 case production, winery only bottling, was made from Malbec from their estate vineyard and is probably the only wine from Sonoma that I’ve had made from that varietal. The wine opens with aromas of  mushroom, strawberry starburst and guava. Good mineral backbone, leading to more simplistic flavors of pear, red delicious, watermelon. A great summer sipper. -88

 2012 Chalk Hill Russian River Pinot Noir- This bottling has a more fruit driven nose and flavor profile than its Mount Eden Clone counterpart. There are classic Sonoma Pinot aromas of raspberry, cherry cola and lavender. Nice mineral backbone on the mid-palate, which leads to flavors of nutmeg, cherry cola and raspberry. This bottling impresses for the price.Drinking great now, drink 2015-2022. -92

 2013 Chalk Hill Mount Eden Clone Pinot Noir- This is their winery only bottling that is a more herbaceous showing. Aromas of raspberry and dried herbs on the nose with red cherry perisist. Great acid backbone leading to delicious flavors of red currant, raspberry and cran-cherry. Not a cherry bomb and needs a bit of time. Drink 2016-2024 -91

 2013 Chalk Hill Zinfandel- Zin from the Russian River Valley that saw 10 months in nearly 60% new French oak. This Zin is not widely distributed but impresses nonetheless, weighing in at 15% alcohol. The wine has a nice dark color that leads to aromas reminiscent of blackberry, bramble and raspberry. Flavors of raspberry, black cherry and strawberry jam persist. Nice minerality, as this is fruity but balanced and can improve with another year in the cellar. Drink 2016-2023. -91

 2012 Chalk Hill Clara's Vineyard- This is a Cabernet dominant wine, blended with 20% Petite Verdot and 20% Malbec. The wine is a dark purple that opens with aromas of creme de cassis, mocha, the classic Sonoma profile. Flavors of mocha, creme de cassis and anise persist with nice depth and richness.  This dense wine is a sleeping giant that needs a ton of time. Drink 2020-2030 -94

 2011 Chalk Hill Estate Red-  Interesting blend here with 47% Malbec, 28% Cabernet, 12% Petite Verdot, 11% Syrah and 3% Carmenere, as they elected not to use any Merlot. One of the few Malbec dominant blends I’ve ever had from Sonoma. This wine is from a more difficult vintage and is done in a more restrained style. The nose opens with aromas of creme de cassis and blackberry. The palate is shut down and will need at least two years for the fruit to fully integrate. There are flavors of blackberry, anise along moderate tannins I’d cellar this one for a while but this wine is showing good potential despite the colder vintage. Drink 2019 on. -92

 2012 Chalk Hill William P. Foley Cabernet-  This is Chalk Hills most esteemed Cabernet wine. This is a dense Cabernet that will need a ton of time to fully come together. There are wonderful aromas of graphite and blackberry with creme de cassis. The depth and richness is there. Flavors reminscent of blackberry, graphite and creme de cassis persist. A sleeping giant. Drink 2019-2030 -95

Rasa Vineyards

Rasa Vineyards

This Walla Walla wine story begins with two wine collectors and oenophiles, Pinto and Billo Naravane. These guys decided to quit their jobs in the computer industry and move to Walla Walla, where they started Rasa Vineyards in 2007.  What they’ve created is some exceptional, terroir driven wines. Billo Naravane serves as head winemaker and is one exceptional man, having a bachelor’s degree from MIT and a master’s degree from Stanford. His wine education is the one of the best out there as well, completing the wine program from UC Davis. It’s no wonder that this incredibly smart man makes some great wine.

I was first introduced to Rasa casually a year ago at a blind tasting. My first bottle of 2007 QED really has that ‘wow’ factor with an incredibly rich flavor profile but wonderful smoothness. I recently had the chance to try some other wines and they impressed as well. As a boutique producer, Rasa is pretty difficult to find. You have to check their online store at rasavineyards.com or at specialty Northwest wine shops like Esquin. Here are the fantastic wines that I have tried from Rasa.

2013 Rasa Chardonnay-This has lighter aromatics with light pear and apple on the nose. Nice mouthfeel and acid structure. There are flavors of brioche, red delicious and starfruit that connect the lively acidity. Refreshing. Drink 2015-2018 -90

 2007 Rasa QED- This has 94% Syrah with the rest Grenache. Very perfumed nose with anise and red cherry, alongside red raspberry, red cherry, pomegranate and blackberry flavors. Smooth and memorable wine that impresses and gives you that ‘wow’ factor. Restrained but balanced. This seamless wine is one of the best of its style. Drink 2015-2020. -95

 2009 Rasa QED-This is their Syrah dominant blend that impresses, once again. Nice richness, viscosity and mouthfeel with aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and chocolate cake. This dense wine brings flavors of blackberry, creme de cassis and coffee on the mid-palate. Like the 2007, this is a delicious and layered wine that is tough to resist now. Drink 2015-2022. -94

Gramercy Cellars

Gramercy Cellars
A winery built on showcasing great Washington terroir, Gramercy has hit a high mark with its recent set of releases. Founder, winemaker and master sommelier, Greg Harrington, focuses on crafting Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, sourced from some of the best vineyards in the state. Harrington incredibly passed the master sommelier exam at the age of 26 in 1996, which is a considerable feat considering there are just 130 master somms in the world.
Harrington's winemaking philosophy is to choose the best fruit from the best vineyards and to utilize moderate ripeness with minimal intervention and minimal oak. The resultant wines are some of the best Rhone varietal efforts that I’ve tried. Particularly the 2012 ‘The Deuce’ Syrah was a showstopper of great terroir and finesse. Also look for the 2012 GSM Blend which impresses with its pretty array of red fruits and rich and refined mouthfeel. Check these impressive new releases out at gramercycellars.com

2012 Gramercy Cellars Columbia Valley Syrah- This fruit is sourced from 4 vineyards, the Minick and Olsen in Columbia Valley and the SJR and Stony Vine in Walla Walla. This was aged in 100% French oak with 13% new oak. The wine opens in the glass with perfumed aromas of provcencale herbs, green bell pepper, and white pepper. Palate has great minerality bringing flavors of red cherry, anise, raspberry and excellent density and viscosity with a slight saline component. This thing will age gracefully for another 10 years. This versatile wine is a fantastic effort considering this is their entry level bottling. Drink 2012-2025 -92 $40.00

2012 Gramercy Cellars ‘Inigo Montoya’ Tempranillo- Sourced from the Walla Walla and Columbia Valley fruit, this wine is a blend of 85% Tempranillo with 15% Syrah. This had a small amount of new American oak, 11% and is from the Gramercy Estate, the Los Collines and Minick vineyards. Spiced and oaky nose with also red currant and stewed strawberry. Upon entry the wine brings flavors of black plum, blueberry compote and blackberry flavors with some tar presence. Lush mouthfeel with nice minerality. This thing will be even better in a year. They plan to move this to 100% Tempranillo next year, which will be an interesting showing considering the warmth attained in the 2013 vintage. Drink 2015-2022. -92 $42.00

2012 Gramercy Cellars ‘Lagniappe’ Syrah- This is a 100% Syrah from Red Willow, Oldfield and Minick vineyards in Columbia Valley and comes in at a relatively low 14.2% alcohol. The wine has aromas of smoke, blackberry, black olive, tar and mushroom. There is a nice earthy quality to the wine. Smooth quality to the mouthfeel. Flavors of blackberry, black cherry and black olive. Nice richness and acid structure, indicative of this great vintage. Find pasta with boar ragu and crack this. Drink 2015-2025. -92 $55.00

2012 Gramercy Cellars ‘The Deuce’ Syrah- This Syrah wine is blended from two sources in the Walla Walla Valley and sees 100% French oak with only 14% new. Deep, glass staining purple color. The wine opens up with aromas of smoked meats, bacon fat and black plum with black tea. Delicious and lithe on the mouth, with rich viscosity. There are flavors of crème de cassis, blackberry, anise, black cherry and nice minerality. This has an intriguing combination of being a rich and mineral driven wine. An excellent effort, one of the best of its kinds and this thing begs for a slow roasted shortrib. Drink 2015-2025. -94 $52.00