Kerloo Cellars

As another great Washington Wine Month comes to a close, we bring you one of the great wineries that is headed in Seattle. Our wineries need your help right now, and please consider supporting your favorite local wineries that have been financially impacted by the pandemic.

Ryan Crane crafts some absolutely thrilling wines. His winemaking continues to evolve over the past several years, as the releases seem to get better and better. He began his winemaking career at Animale Cellars in Seattle, and then later trained under Marie-Eve Gilla at Forgeron Cellars while completing his degree in Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College.

I absolutely love the 2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Lonesome Springs Ranch’ Rose (WWB, 91) which has brilliant tension and delicate red fruit flavors, with a silky texture. This wine is a superb value. An even better value for a mere $15.00 is the 2018 SoDo Cellars ‘GSM’ Red Wine (WWB, 91) which has awesome freshness and bright red fruits with a silky mouthfeel. 

Learn more about this great SoDo winery at www.kerloocellars.com. Here are the great new releases by the talented Ryan Crane and his Kerloo Cellars.

2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Lonesome Springs Ranch’ Rose- The 2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Lonesome Springs Ranch’ Rose is a blend of equal parts Mouvedre and Grenache. A pretty pale pink ones in the glass, the Rose shows off shades of rose water and blood orange that collide with lighter melon tones aromatically. The palate has marvelous freshness with delicate red fruits that dance with the wonderful sense of minerality. This is Washington meeting Bandol. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2019 Kerloo Cellars ‘Blue Mountain Vineyard’ Grenache Blanc- Over the years Ryan Crane has secured the accolade of being one of the top winemakers for this unique Rhone varietal. He has been sourcing from this top notch Walla Walla vineyard for several years. The prototypical melon tones jump out of the glass with the shades of green papaya and mango on this exotic nose. The palate has a kiss of sweetness with bright melon tones that collide with minerals, damp stone and Pink Lady apple flavors. This is sensational in its youth and really needs a hot summer day (not March in Seattle). Drink 2020-2025- 92

2018 SoDo Cellars ‘GSM’ Red Wine- For a mere fifteen dollars, Ryan Crane has crafted a seriously good wine that punches above his weight class. Very pretty red fruits dance with shades of rose water and blood orange zest on this evocative nose. The palate has a sterling sense of minerality and a seriously good sense of balance. While not particularly big, the elegance of the perfumed and downright juicy red fruits and silky mouthfeel really shines through. With good length, this is a complete wine by Kerloo as I can see this cellaring well for five to seven years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Kerloo Cellars ‘Black Rock Vineyard’ Syrah- The ‘Black Rock Vineyard’ is a cooler site  located in the Yakima Valley. A 6% Viogner co-ferment was given to this wine that shines with its high-toned citrus rind and guava tones, while the core of smoked pork shoulder and blackberry jam all create some gorgeous aromatic range. The tension of the wine truly entices and layers of dark fruit deftly combine with more subtle milk chocolate, Hoisin sauce and creosote tones. Seriously good in its youth, the 2018 ‘Black Rock Vineyard’ Syrah will have another decade ahead of it. This wine is a perfect example of how Ryan Crane is crafting some of the most exciting wines made in this state. Drink 2020-2030- 93

Baer Winery

Moving towards the end of a great Washington Wine Month we share one of the great boutique producers out of Woodinville. Baer winery was founded by the late Lance Baer, who sadly passed away at age 39. Since that time Lisa Baer has been running the show and doing a great job. Of course it was more than ten years ago that Baer made history by having their ‘Ursa’ red wine be named the #6 wine on the 2008 Wine Spectator Top 100.This accolade really brought national attention to this small winery. 

On the weekend Baer is a great place to visit, located in the Woodinville in the warehouse district. Baer has become synonymous with brilliantly capturing the art of blending. Head winemaker Erica Orr is one of the state’s great winemakers. Her wines are structured and Bordelaise, yet utilize the richness of each vintage. The recent releases come from the 2016 vintage which was another warm vintage that didn’t quite see the level of head spikes that 2015 was blessed (or cursed) with. Erica crafts her wines with some killer fruit — the widely acclaimed Stillwater Creek vineyard. This vineyard tends to have a slightly cooler climate than most in the Columbia Valley. Look for their 2016 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) which has marvelous richness and poise. After a little decant, this thing is singing. Similarly excellent was the 2014 ‘Star] (WWB, 94) which is one of the best Washington Merlots that I have sampled in the past year. Learn more about this fantastic Woodinville winery at baerwinery.com Here are the great new releases by Baer.

2016 Baer ‘Callisto’ Red Wine-The 2016 Baer ‘Callisto’ is a fabulous blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Needing a one hour decent to fully be singing, this opens with an aromatic core of red fruits that are wrapped around by toasty oak and chocolate tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate has good freshness and purity of fruit. Milk chocolate covered red cherry, coffee grounds and shades of sagebrush all collide on the palate. Fantastic now, the ‘Callisto’ will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 20200-2032- 92

2016 Baer ‘Star’ Merlot- This great 100% Merlot wine was entirely sourced from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. Not really needing a decant at tall, the ‘Star; is soft, round and generous, as the Merlot yields a silky, pillowy mouthfeel that entices. A light dusting of salinity falls upon a deep core of red fruits with milk chocolate and sagebrush undertones. Outstanding in its youth, the highly elegant 2016 ‘Star’ will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2016 Baer ‘Ursa’ Red Wine- The 2016 ‘Ursa’ is a simply gorgeous blend of 38% Merlot and 38% Cabernet Franc with 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and just a touch of Malbec. Once on the nose the leafy and savory tones truly entice alongside shades of blackberry cobbler that all mingle in the glass. The palate has a soft mouthfeel and a seamless quality that makes this glide across the mid-palate. Elegant and enticing to enjoy in its nascent phase, the 2016 ‘Ursa’ will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Just be sure to give this a one to two hour decant if enjoying right now. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2016 Baer ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- This unique, single vineyard bottling shows very pretty red rose petal and violet tones alongside ripe red and dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is impeccably balanced, showing both bright acidity and good viscosity. Mocha, sweet pipe tobacco, leather and ripe wild blackberry flavors all come together with a bright sense of minerality. The earthy undertones really complement the rich fruits, as this great new wine will have a long life in the cellar. Give this a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2032- 93

2016 Baer ‘Arctos’ Red Wine- The ‘Arctos’ is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine that is downright awesome to enjoy right now. Following a one hour decant, the ‘Arctos’ takes the lead with gorgeous Asian spices that combine with, red bell pepper and creme de cassis aromatics that take shape in the glass. The soft mouthfeel is lovely. Red bell pepper, anise, creme de cassis and shades of blackberry cobbler all mingle together on the palate. The elegance of the wine is apparent. While fantastic to enjoy now, the 2016 ‘Arctos’ will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 93 

Nyetimber

Today we make the jaunt across the pond to share one of the great producers of British Sparkling Wine. It is remarkable that Nyetimber have been making sparkling wines for more than thirty years. All estate sourced, Nyetimber crafts their wines from chalky soils that resemble those of Champagne. Their vineyards in Sussex, Hampshire and Kent are surrounded by natural habitats – from native broadleaved woodlands which are managed and replanted, as well as wildflower meadows in various locations at both the Tillington and Manor vineyards that provide food and nesting places for birds and insects. The vineyard has fifty acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, the classic varieties of the Champagne region, which are planted on gentle south-facing slopes of greensand soil. Roughly 100,000 vines are planted close together and trained on a single guyot system to create a unique microclimate and distinctive fruit characteristics. Several different clones and rootstocks are planted which add complexity to the wines.

Roughly 30% of the total Nyetimber estate is natural ‘non-productive’ hedgerows, windbreaks, woods, gardens, ponds and meadows. They create wildlife corridors for larger fauna, and where possible, the vineyard team uses sonar, kites and bird bangers as a gentle way of preventing damage to the fruit. Head winemaker Cherie Spriggs, has a illustrious past, including being named ‘Sparkling Winemaker of the Year’ at the 2018 International Wine Challenge. She has crafted some beautiful new sparkling wines.

NV Nyetimer ‘Cuvee Cherie’ Sparkling Wine- Named after the winemaker Cherie Spriggs, this 100% Chardonnay, demi-sec wine was given quite a bit of dosage (38G/L). The nose has sweetened French bread and suggestions of lemon drop aroma that all build in the glass. The palate has really good freshness with medium-sweet orchard fruits with lighter citrus rind and mineral accents. While this carries quite a bit of sweetness, the bright acidity carries the wine. Drink 2020-2025- 90

NV Nyetimber ‘Classic Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine- The ‘Classic Cuvee’ is a blend of mainly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a small portion of Pinot Meunier blended in. The wine was aged form more than three years before disgorgement. Showing off its deep hue, this opens with green papaya and Macadamia nut that meld with the ripe orchard fruits on this expressive bouquet. The palate has really good richness and a silky mousse. The textural elements of the wine really entice. Gorgeous to enjoy right now, this will cellar well for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

NV Nyetimber ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling WIne- The NV Nyetimber ‘Brut Rose’ is another glorious bottling from this killer estate. On the nose this takes on shades of cran-pomegranate with blood orange zest and lighter wild mushroom tones that all collide aromatically. The freshness and verve of the wine is seriously good as layers of bright red fruits dance with minerals, orange rind and the damp earthy undertones. The is simply fantastic stuff to savor right now as this will provide drinking enjoyment for a decade to come. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2010 Nyetimber ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- A truly gorgeous effort, the 2010 ‘Blanc de Blancs’ stands tall amongst the great of British Wines that I have ever sampled. Aged for five years on the lees prior to disgorgement, this takes the lead with  shades of damp earth that collide with the bright citrus zest infused sourdough bread tones that all mingle together in the glass. citrus rind and baking spice aromatics taking shape in the glass. Once on the mouth, the wine unveils layers of bright citrus fruit flavors that mingle with shades of peat moss and Japanese pear. The silky mousse truly entices while the brightness of the wine invigorates your senses. Now at the ten year mark the 2010 Nyetimber ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine is truly singing and will shine on for more than a decade to come.  Drink 2020-2032- 93

Domaine Serene

Sitting with head winemaker Michael Fay I could feel the confidence brimming as he spoke. ‘I think these are seriously good wines,’ Michael said, when asked about the new 2017 releases. ‘They have really good texture but are also rich. . . I think you’re gonna like these’ he contended. It is hard to believe that more than thirty years ago Domaine Serene was founded by Dundee Hills pioneers Grace and Ken Evenstad, One of the most beautiful wineries in the Pacific Northwest, Domaine Serene is an absolute must visit for any Oregon wine lover. I fondly recall my first visit to Domaine Serene in 2002 and was absolutely blown away not only with the sweeping views of the Willamette Valley but the stunning wines. 

I have admired the wines made by Michael Fay for quite some time, as he made some downright awesome wines for Goldeneye before being hired by Domaine Serene as head winemaker. Michael does a masterful job with crafting his Pinot Noirs which come from another warm vintage. One of the consistently great Oregon Pinot Noirs, the 2017 ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) shows a massive core of bright red and dark fruits with a downright sexy mouthfeel. The ’17 ‘Evenstad Reserve’ is a heavyhitter of a wine that is to be bought by the case. Even better is the 2017 Domaine Serene ‘Grace Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 96) showing incredible finesse and a silky mouthfeel. This thing is marvelous to enjoy after a two hour decant and will be exceedingly long-lived. I know I might sound a bit redundant, but Domaine Serene has done it again. Learn more about this famed Oregon estate at http://domaineserene.com/ Here are the incredible new release wines by Domaine Serene.

NV Domaine Serene ‘XII’ Rose- Always made as a multi-vintage wine, the ‘XII’ starts off with pretty rose water and watermelon aromas that meld with the lighter citrus rind and flinty undertones of the wine. Bright, yet not shy with its silky texture, the delicate red fruits dance with shades of nectarine skin and Gravenstein apple flavors. Truly needing a warm summer day, the Domaine Serene ‘XII’ Rose is a serious, stand alone, effort that will be best enjoyed over the next several years. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud’ Chardonnay- Located high atop the estate property located in the Dundee Hills, the 2017 ‘Cote Sud’ Chardonnay shows off lovely flinty aromatics that mingle with lemon zest, kumquat and green apple tones that all mingle together in the glass. The palate is plush, showing a seamless texture and a soft mouthfeel that melds marvelously with the bright minerality of the wine and deep core of citrus and orchard fruits. The length and generous finish of the wine truly accentuates the drinking enjoyment. Fantastic to savor now, this beautiful wine will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 Domaine Serene ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir is another monumental release from this storied Dundee Hills estate. Needing a one hour decant to fully develop, the wine slowly unveils red currant and nutmeg infused kirsch aromatics that meld with the damp earth and black truffle shaving aromatics that all take shape in the glass. The palate is round and generous, creating a seamless quality that runs through the core of the wine. Deep red and dark fruits dance with citrus rind, forest floor and a light dusting of salted cocoa powder that meld together on the palate. The combination of length, range, weight and acidity brings you back to the glass for more hedonistic delight. Truly stunning in its youth, the 2017 ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Pinot Noir is up there with the best ever releases of its kind. Domaine Serene has done it again. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2017 Domaine Serene ‘Two Barns Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 Domaine Serene ‘Two Barns Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is an outstanding new wine from this historic estate. Sourced from this 215 acre vineyard first planted in 2000. Needing an hour decent to fully be expressive, the wine is slowly awakened with a deep core of red cherry candy and guava puree aromas that meld with the lovely high-toned citrus rind and baking spice aromatics that all take shape in the glass. The palate is dense and plush, showing a silky mouthfeel land a wonderful elegance. Fantastic to enjoy in its youth, this beautifully textured effort will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2017 Domaine Serene ‘Abbey Oaks Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The fantastic 2017 ‘Abbey Oaks Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is another fantastic release from this famed Oregon winery. Sourced from this Yamhill-Carlton AVA vineyard, this opens with ripe kirsch and huckleberry aromas that meld with shades of peat moss and forest floor with a dusting of white truffle that all come together in the glass. The freshness and verve of the wine is every bit outstanding with a rich core of dark fruits, wild mushroom and damp earthy tones. This is fantastic to enjoy in its youth and will continue to drink well for fifteen or more years to come. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2017 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud’ Pinot Noir- The every bit outstanding 2017 ‘Cote Sud’ Pinot Noir is another thrilling new bottling from this great, dry-farmed, vineyard, set on Jory soils and perched high in the Dundee Hills AVA. Dark berry aromas — huckleberry and boysenberry tones — come alive in the glass alongside the lighter peat moss tones that meld in the glass. The palate is plush, showing good weight and a plush, seamless texture that effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Hints of tobacco leaf and damp earth connect with the deep core of wild blackberry compote and lighter orange rind tones that sing in harmony on the palate. Fantastic to savor now, there 2017 Domaine Serene ‘Cote Sud’ Pinot Noir will give drinking pleasure for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 Domaine Serene ‘Triple S Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Triple S Vineyard’ is a small, 4 acre parcel located in the Dundee Hills, planted to Dijon and Pommard Pinot Noir clones. Needing a one hour decant to fully evolve, the wine becomes aroused, slowly unveiling red currants and underbrush aromas that combine with salted orange rind and a dusting of volcanic earth that all take shape in the glass. The palate is dense and wonderfully earthy, with peat moss and forest floor flavors that meld with the core of dark fruits and a touch of milk chocolate. Showing great acidity and a seamless texture, this outstanding new bottling will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 95

2017 Domaine Serene ‘Grace Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 Domaine Serene ‘Grace Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a stunning new wine by this talented winemaking team led by Michael Fay. Sourced from this dry-farmed vineyard set on Jory soils, the ‘Grace Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with sour kirsch and peat moss tones that connect with the cran-pomegranate and blood orange zest aromatics that all mingle in the glass. The palate is plush and dense, providing a silky mouthfeel and gorgeous sense of texture. Ripe red and dark fruits collide with minerals, peat moss and shades of black truffle crudo on the palate. Gorgeous, round and generous to enjoy in its youth, the 2017 ‘Grace Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will be exceedingly long lived. Be sure to give this at least an hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2040- 96

Mirror Napa Valley

One of the storied names in Seattle sports history, Rick Mirer is a former Seattle Seahawk quarterback that is now applying his trade in Napa, producing brilliant Cabernet Sauvignon wines. One of the most illustrious high school quarterbacks in Indiana state history, Mirer earned the Academy of Achievement Award as the top high school football player in the country in 1989, as well as the Atlanta Touchdown Club's Bobby Dodd Award as the nation's best high school quarterback. At Notre Dame, Mirer was just as good, winning three bowl games and accounting for more points running and throwing (350) than any other player in Notre Dame history. 

The Seattle Seahawks were a very poor team when they drafted Mirer in 1993. Still, Mirer finished his rookie season 5th in the AFC with 274 completions and 2833 yards and was AFC Rookie of the Year by United Press International. Mirer’s remaining seasons were not as successful in Seattle, being set behind an abysmal offensive line. Having gone to those games in the 1980s, all of us in the stands knew that Mirer was really not given a fair chance with such poor protection. Eventually traded to the Chicago Bears in 1997, Mirer continued to play as a backup quarterback until 2004. 

Close friends with Drew Bledsoe, and drafted right behind him in 1993, Mirer admits that his friendship with Bledsoe helped lead him to start Mirror Napa Valley. Bledsoe and Mirer even took off-season­ vacation with their wives to Napa Valley. During the off-season they would also try to stump each other with wines from Port or Brunello di Montalcino. It made sense that both quarterbacks would start their wineries post-football. While playing for the Raiders and 49ers Rick became even more passionate for wine, being so close to Napa Valley. Finally in 2008 Rick started Mirror Napa Valley, utilizing the winemaking talents of Kirk Venge, formerly of Mumm Napa Valley. Kirk serves as winemaker for several great Napa wineries including B Cellars, Bacio Divino Cellars, Beau Vigne, Entrepreneur Wines, and Hunnicutt Wines. The new releases by Mirror were gorgeous. Check out the 2016 Mirror Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 92) which has great depth and concetnration, with classic herbal tones. Even better is the 2016 Mirror ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 94) which is a dense and massive treat, with a great acid backbone and great viscosity. For more about Rick Mirer’s great winery go to https://www.mirrorwine.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Mirror Napa Valley.

2016 Mirror Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the Moulds Vineyard & Stagecoach Vineyards, the 2016 Mirror Cabernet Sauvignon opens with cassis and red bell pepper tones, with flinty and smoky accents that entice. The palate has good freshness and verve, with a lovely viscosity. Blackberry cobbler, mocha and creme de cassis flavors all marvelously come together alongside the vibrant mineral backbone. Outstanding in its youth, this beautiful wine will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2020-2035- 92

2016 Mirror ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Cimarossa Vineyard which is set at more than 1500 feet. This limited production bottling was aged for twenty nine months in 100% new French oak prior to bottling. The plush, hedonistic aromas of creme de cassis, anise and blackberry compote bring you back to the glass for more delight. The palate has a silky texture and wonderful refinement. While obviously rich, the elegance of the wine cannot be overstated. Intense dark fruits meld with chocolate cake, creme de cassis, anise and exotic spices on the palate. Fantastic to savor in its youth, the ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon will be exceedingly long lived. Drink 2020-2040- 94

De Ponte Cellars

For many years iI have visited one of the outstanding producers set in the Dundee Hills.During my visit visit back in 2007 I was greeted relaxed atmosphere to taste their wines, De Ponte produces a range of great Pinot Noir bottling and one of the best Melon de Bourgogne wines in North America, their ‘D.F.B.’ First started by the Baldwin family in 1999, De Ponte is named after the matriarch of the Baldwin family, Shirley Baldwin.  De Ponte, her maiden name which is of Portuguese origin, honors her father who grew grapes and made his own wine in California's San Joaquin Valley. De Ponte released its first Pinot Noir in 2001, as it leans on the talented Isabelle Dutartre for all winemaking. Dutartre is originally from Burgundy in France and you will find that no surprise when you taste these highly Burgundian wines. Vines planted are set on ancient volcanic soils with clay loam influence. 

The new wines by Dutartre were awesome across the board. I loved the new 2018 De Ponte ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which shows great Burgundian, earthy tones and a magical mouthfeel. I loved the new 2017 De Ponte ’Baldwin Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has lovely volcanic terroir alongside a core of deep dark fruits and subtle earthy tones Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.depontecellars.com Here are the exciting new releasees by De Ponte.

2018 Clay Hill Chardonnay- The Clay Hill Chardonnay shows good brightness and intensity with medium-bodied orchard fruit and lemon zest flavors with lighter buttered French bread accents. This is seriously good stuff for the price. 

2018 De Ponte ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay-The De Ponte Chardonnay opens with pear and nutmeg accents that combine with shades of salted Macadamia nut and brioche tones that take shape in the glass. The palate has great freshness and verve with juicy melon and Gala apple flavors that combine with the sourdough bread and greats sense of minerality. This is just an awesome effort by De Ponte. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2017 De Ponte ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir shows good range from cola and peat moss tones that collide with a good range of dark fruits and citrus rind accents. The palate has good freshness and balance with a deep core of huckleberry and wild blackberry flavors alongside some lighter earthy undertones. This is just an awesome new entry level wine by De Ponte. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2017 De Ponte ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir by De Ponte is a thrilling new wine by this storied Dundee Hills estate. Deeply perfumed and enticing, the wine leads with its rich core of dark fruits with damp earth, black tea and peat moss tones that all mingle in the glass. The palate has a great combination of freshness and weight with rich blackberry cobbler, underbrush, teaberry and orange zest flavors alongside shades of wild mushroom. Showing great weight and balance, the ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 De Ponte ‘Lonesome Rock Ranch’ Pinot Noir- The ’Lonesome Rock Ranch’ is a rocky soiled, 30-acre vineyard located near the Coastal Range. The stony terroir aromatically is downright awesome as red cherry and red raspberry aromas dance with the earthy tones. The palate shows great freshness and a light dusting of salinity that adds to the enjoyment. Damp earth and peat moss tones collide with copious minerals and bright red fruits with cran-orange accents on the palate. Enjoy this great effort over the next decade or more. Drink 2020-2032- 92

2017 De Ponte ‘Baldwin Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir- This wine is named after Shirley Baldwin, the who is the matriarch of the Baldwin family. Her father, Manuel de Ponte, made his own wine out of grapes he planted in California's San Joaquin Valley. This shows a deep core with layers of damp earth that meld with wild blackberry and orange rind that all take place in the glass. The palate has marvelous volcanic terroir with deep black tea and blackberry flavors that combine with the lighter citrus rind and damp earthy tones of the wine. Truly fantastic now, the 2017 ‘Baldwin Reserve’ Pinot Noir will have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2020-2035- 93

Migration

Most people might not know that the Migration line was created back in 2001 by Duckhorn, and it wasn’t until 2008 that Migration made Chardonnay. A few years ago I tried the Migration lineup and I was struck by the lack of balance in some of the wines. Chardonnays were too cloying, using too much oak and they really didn’t show that well. Such is not the case with the new wines by Migration, that are really outstanding across the board.

Formerly with Decoy, another Duckhorn-owned winery, Dana Epperson has been head winemaker at Migration since 2017. Her new release wines were really good, showing excellent range and texture. Sourced from their estate vineyard in the Russian River Valley, the 2018 Migration ‘Running Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) shows wonderful length and viscosity. Even better is the 2018 Migration ‘Charles Heintz VIneyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has incredible salinity and balance with great richness. Learn more about these excellent new wines at https://www.migrationwines.com Here are the great new wines by Migration. 

NV Migration Rose Sparkling Wine- The NV Migration Rose Sparkling Wine is their soiree into making bubbles. Pretty rose petals aromas meld with the watermelon and red cherry candy aromatics that take shape in the glass. The soft, delicate mousse entices, as lighter red fruits dance with shades of melon and wet stone on the palate. This is serious stuff that will be best enjoyed in its youth. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2018 Migration ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Sourced from this acclaimed property first planted in 1973, the 2018 2018 Migration ‘Bien Nacido Vineyard’ Chardonnay shows off pineapple and shades of nutmeg infused Challah bread on the nose. The palate is fresh with a polished texture and silky elegance. Bright lemon zest, sourdough bread and vanilla cream flavors all combine on the palate.This is delightful now and will provide drinking enjoyment for the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Migration ‘Dierberg Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Located in the Santa Maria Valley, the Dierberg is set on sandy soils and has a great marine influence from the Pacific Ocean. On the nose this shows salted praline and Meyer lemon zest tones that mingle with shades of butterscotch on this impressive nose. The palate is rich and layered with wonderful Meyer lemon cream and tropical fruit flavors. The length and weight of the wine is fantastic. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2018 Migration ‘Running Creek Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Located in the Russian River Valley, the ‘Running Creek Vineyard’ is a cooler site owned by Duckhorn. Butterscotch and exotic spices combine with ripe mango and pineapple on this expressive nose. The palate has beautiful length and balance with a good sense of viscosity. Fantastic to enjoy now, the wine will cellar well over the next decade, picking up tertiary tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2018 Migration ‘Charles Heintz Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Charles Heintz Vnieyard’ is located in the Green Valley which is slightly inland from the Pacific Ocean, set at 900 feet. Ripe bananas foster and pineapple tones combine with nutmeg infused Challah bread on the expansive nose. The palate has a silky mouthfeel that makes it nearly impossible to resist. At the crescendo lies the gorgeous, near minute-long finish. This is truly a gorgeous showing by Migration. Drink 2020-2030- 93

Big Table Farm

‘I think these were some really good wines,’ remarked Brian Marcy, who talked about the 2018 vintage in Oregon. As we sat together during the holidays, I was eager to get his insights on what most Oregon winemakers are saying is another seriously good vintage, continuing the glorious run since 2014. ‘I like the balance of the wines,’ Brian explained, ‘But they also have good richness.’  

I was one of the first writers to feature one of the outstanding producer of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley. Clare and Brian were previously working in Napa, as Brian made some glorious Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah at Neyers prior to coming to the Willamette Valley. He works closely in winemaking with his uber-talented wife, Clare Carver, who is also a world-class artist. Clare’s gorgeous art appears on all Big Table Farm bottles as she goes through the painstaking process of importing her paper from Italy and hand labeling all bottles, as she handles all of the business aspects of Big Table Farm. I have been blown away with these labels since I first tried these wines more than five years ago which marvelously complement the uniqueness of the wines they produce.

Clare and Brian has gained a sterling reputation for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay bottlings which are now appearing on fine dining lists from Le Pigeon in Portland to Eleven Madison Park in New York City. I was blown away with their new 2018 Big Table Farm ‘Wild Bee’ Chardonnay (WWB, 93) which has a stunning mouthfeel and texture, showing seriously good range. Even better is their downright thrilling 2018 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos-Sandberg' Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which deftly walks the tight rope between richness and balance, showing scintillating range. Learn more about these special wines at http://bigtablefarm.com Here are the thrilling new wines by Big Table Farm.

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- The ‘Wild Bee’ is formerly the Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ bottling as they have steadily increasing the quantity of this wine, now up to more than 800 cases. Largely aged in used French oak, this starts off with Challah bread and nutmeg tones that combine with suggestions of Pink Lady apple and starfruit that all take shape in the glass. The palate has wonderful brightness and a silky texture. Layered and rich, wait for the exceedingly long and generous finish. Novel and every bit outstanding, this is another sensational effort by the talented Brian Marcy. A delight to savor in its youth, this great new wine will cellar well for a decade or more, picking up tertiary tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Big Table Farm have steadily been increasing their production of this wine, now at 2500 cases, with their pigs, ‘Sam’ and ‘Rick’ pictured on the label. Despite increasing production, there is absolutely no decrease in quality of their entry level bottling that shows gorgeous aromatic range from damp earth, wild mushroom, red cherry preserve and orange rind tones that meld together in the glass. Silky, round and generous, with wonderful richness and poise, this has a silky texture that entices. Layers of cran-cherry, Mandarin orange rind, forest floor and shades of black truffle crudo all entice on the palate. Fantastic to enjoy in its youth, this should provide drinking enjoyment for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 93

2018 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos-Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The gorgeous 2018 ‘Pelos-Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is another thrilling effort by superstar winemaker Brian Marcy. On the nose this entices with shades of white truffle and Hoisin sauce, alongside a rich core of red and dark fruits, giving the wine a distinctly Umami edge.  The palate is plush and generous, unveiling a seamless texture that makes this effortlessly glide once on the attack. Ripe red cherry and boysenberry flavors collide with minerals, blood orange zest, peat moss and shades of seaweed on this wonderfully expressive palate. The ‘Sunnyside Vineyard’ Pinot Noir deftly walks the tight rope between richness and balance, as this effort is best enjoyed over the next ten to fifteen years, picking up earthy tertiary tones as it ages. Drink 2020-2033- 95

2017 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Estate’ Syrah- Sourced from one of the esteemed vineyards in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, ‘The Funk Estate Vineyard’ was planted by Walla Walla wine pioneer Richard Funk who has gained national attention for his Saviah wines. Right away you are drawn to the seaweed, and Umami aromas that combine with shades of bacon fat, red currents and wild blackberry compote that all take shape in the glass. The palate has great freshness and elegance, with a silky texture. Black cherry cordial and huckleberry flavors meld with shades of black tea, anise, exotic spices, and the lovely damp earthy tones. Showing serious verve, this beautifully textured wine will have a long life ahead of it — but it is simply impossible to resist right now. I would consider enjoying this in its youth while the sterling freshness remains. Drink 2020-2030- 95

Hattingley Valley

As I walked the vineyard in the pouring rain I was amazed that this area produces wine. It was a hugely wet and damp February morning in Hampshire. My colleague and I had traveled the 90 minute trek from Central London to arrive in the British countryside. Hattingley Valley is a family owned business located in Hampshire specializing in premium English sparkling wines. Simon Robinson founded Hattingley Valley in 2008, planting Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in his 24 hectacre vineyard (60 acres). With help from the talented Emma Rice they established their winery in 2010. Wines are fermented using a small portion of of oak barrels wit the remainder stainless steel. Winemaker Emma Rice studied at Plumpton College and has worked in winemaking from Tasmania to California. I met her for the first time more than a year ago at a conference in Oregon and I was very glad to coordinate with her my visit to Hattingley. Emma’s first release was in 2013 and they export their wines to 16 countries worldwide.

I was very impressed with the latest set of Hattingley releases. These wines show a common thread of wonderfully chalky terroir. A really good value, the NV Hattingley Valley ‘Classic Reserve’ Brut Sparkling Wine (WWB, 90) shows really good range and a racy acidity. This would make a marvelous aperitif. The best wine that I sampled was the 2014 Hattingley Valley Rose Sparkling Wine (WWB, 92) which has really good mid-palate weight and a brilliant salinity that combines with the tart red fruits. Learn more about this outstanding English producer of sparkling wine at https://www.hattingleyvalley.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Hattingley Valley.

NV Hattingley Valley ‘Classic Reserve’ Brut Sparkling Wine- Founded in 2008 by Simon and Nicola Robinson, Hattingley Valley is located in Hampshire, England and is set on chalky soils The ‘Classic Reserve’ is a blend of several vintage wines (18% reserve wines) and opens with biscuit aromas with lemon zest and shades of salted Marcona almond. The palate unveils a lovely mouthfeel as brisk acidity and salinity races through pear, wet stone and kumquat flavors. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2011 Hattingley Valley ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The 2011 Blanc de Blancs by Hattingley Valley shows a vibrant hue and opens with sourdough bread, kumquat and shades of forest floor that fill the nose. The palate shows good astringency and weight with bright lemon oil, nectarine rind and green apple torte flavors. Bright and lively, this racy, saline-infused Chardonnay Sparkling Wine will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2014 Hattingley Valley Rose Sparkling Wine- The Hattingley Valley 2014 Rose is a seriously good blend of 60% Pinot Noir with smaller portions Pinot Meunier and Pinot Precoce. A brilliant salmon color, this opens with a bright bouquet of red currant, wild mushroom and shades of lemongrass that build on the nose. The palate shows good balance and mid-palate weight with beautiful teaberry, cran-orange and toasted brioche flavors that combine marvelously as this finished with a polished salinity. Seriously good now, this will continue to evolve over a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2015 Hattingley Valley ‘Blanc de Noir’ Sparkling Wine- Enjoyed in the British Airways Concorde Room, the 2015 Hattingley Valley ‘Blanc de Noir’ Sparkling Wine is an outstanding effort from this warmer vintage in Hampshire. The richness and soft texture of the wine gives way to rich Gala apple, toasty brioche and lighter nutty and wild mushroom tones. With a lovely mousse, this is a complete wine by the talented Emma Rice. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Willamette Valley Vineyards

One of the great, historic spots in Oregon, Willamette Valley Vineyards was originally founded in 1983 by Oregon wine pioneer, Jim Bernau. Jim cleared away an old pioneer plum orchard in the Salem Hills to start his first vineyard. Over time Willamette Valley Vineyards has considerably increased their estate vineyards through partnerships like the merger with Oregon wine industry pioneer, Bill Fuller of Tualatin Vineyards (established in 1973), the O'Briens for Elton Vineyard (established in 1983) and Loeza Vineyard (planted in 2015). Willamette Valley Vineyards sources all of its Pinot Noir from their nearly 500 acres of estate vineyards.

Several years ago I had the chance to revisit their 2012 releases were outstanding across the board. A year ago I had the chance to interview their talented winemaker Joe Ibrahim, who is originally from New York and started his wine journey in Vermont. He has held several high end wine positions prior to coming to Willamette Valley Vineyards, including working for Ste. Michelle Wine Estate in Washington State, as well as Gallo Family in California where he learned about brandy distillation as a Spirits Maker and sparkling wine production as the Senior Winemaker in charge of the sparkling wine program. 

His new wines were really good across the board. I loved his 2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Dijon Clone’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92) which has marvelous richness and a downright sexy texture.  I really enjoyed the 2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 92) which is marvelous now in its youth and will provide bright red fruits and good acidity for a decade or more to come. Learn more about this famed Oregon winery at willamettevalleyvineyards.com. Here are the great new wines by Willamette Valley Vineyards.

2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards Rose Spakling Wine- The 2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards Rose Sparkling Wine is another great release from this historic estate. On the nose this takes on teaberry with cran-orange and suggestions of ripe guava that all mingle in the glass. The astringency suggests a highly limited amount of dosage. Bright cranberry and green apple flavors mingle with minerals and lighter earthy undertones. The soft mousse adds to the crescendo. Drink 2020-2025- 90

2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Dijon Clone’ Chardonnay- Deeply colored in the glass, the ‘Dijon Clone’ Chardonnay opens with roasted pineapple and toasted hazelnuts with vanilla cream tones that round out this expressive nose. The palate is full-bodied and generous with rich and layered brioche and lemon cream flavors with ripe pineapple accents. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next ten years. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir by Willamette Valley Vineyards is a blend of Dijon clones, alongside Wadenswil and Pommard. This wine was aged in 25% new French oak for nine months before bottling. Soft and beautifully balanced, the wine reveals red cherry candy and guava flavors that mingle with teaberry and lighter earthy tones on the palate. Lithe and light on its feet, this beautiful wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Tualatin Estate’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from a vineyard that is set in the lowlands of the Coastal Range, the 2016 ‘Tualatin Estate’ Pinot Noir shows guava and citrus rind accents that meld with the earthy aromatics of the wine. The wine has good freshness with medium-bodied red fruits that dance with minerals and shades of peat moss on the palate. Silky and showing a soft mouthfeel, this will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Willamette Valley Vineyards ‘Signature Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Signature Cuvee’ is an awesome new wine by the talented Joe Ibrahim. Bright and intense, this reveals a good range of red fruits with shades of orange zest, white pepper and spicy black truffle tones on the palate. Having good length and a generous texture, the ‘Signature Cuvee’ will show well for at least another ten years. Drink 2020-2030- 92

Tertulia Cellars

TerAs we continue our march through Washington Wine Month, we bring you another Walla Walla winery, Tertulia Cellars. Founded in 2005 Tertulia Cellars is surrounded by their estate Whistling Hills Vineyard, set in the foreground of the Blue Mountains. In 2008 Tertulia Cellars completed their winery. Tertulia makes some intriguing wines including a very good Carmenere. They have three tasting rooms located in Woodinville, the Willamette Valley, and at their Walla Walla winery. 

I had the chance to meet with their head winemaker, Ryan Raber, on several occasions. He has a penchant for crafting some gorgeous Rose wines and his 2019 Tertuliar Cellars Rose (WWB, 91) is every bit as good as any Rose has has crated wit its silky texture and really good range. I really loved his 2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Reserve’ Syrah (WWB, 92) which has marvelous terroir and deep dark fruit flavors with a good mineral backbone. Learn more about this Walla Walla winery at http://www.tertuliacellars.com/ Here are the new wines by Tertulia Cellars. 

2019 Tertulia Cellars Rose- The 2019 Tertulia Cellars Rose shows the lovely red cherry candy and guava tones that collide with citrus rind accents on this exciting nose. The palate has great freshness and a soft texture. The minerality and bright red fruits with orange zest and peat moss tones really entice on the palate. Needless to say, the talented Ryan Raber can make a great Rose wine. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2019 Tertulia Cellars ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Marsanne- I have admired Marsanne wines from this exciting and dramatic vineyard which is drenched in broken basalt. The stony character of the wine really entices as does the long finish. With bight acidity and lovely lemon rind tones, this outstanding wine is best enjoyed in its youth. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2019 Tertulia Cellars ‘Whistling Hills Vineyard’ Viognier- Sourced from the Whistling Hills Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley, this shows good freshness with lighter cantaloupe and vanilla cream flavors. Drink 2020-2024- 89

2018 Tertulia Cellars ‘Whistling Hills Vineyard’ Viognier- The 2018 Tertulia Cellars ‘Whistling Hills Vineyard’ Viognier opens with bright citrus zest with peaches and cream that fill the aromatics. The bright acidity really makes this wine sing, as the long, lemon zest and mineral-driven finish lingers. Drink 2020-2024- 90

2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Riviere Galets Vineyard’ Grenache- Sourced from this estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA, the 2017 Grenache shows light stony character with Hoisin sauce, black raspberry cordial and lighter flinty tones that round out the nose. The palate has great freshness and texture, unveiling bright citrus zest and straightforward, delicious red fruit flavors. I would enjoy this in the short-term while the brightness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Estate GSM’ Red Wine- A blend of Grenache (48%), Syrah (42%) and Mourvedre (10%), this begins with aromas of smoked pork shoulder that mingles with the black plum and spicy undertones that all connect in the glass. Soft, plush and generous, with a lush mouthfeel, the wine delivers red raspberry, black tea, cigar box and shades of anise on the palate. The range here is really nice. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘The Great SchisM’ Red Wine- A blend of largely Grenache and Syrah, with smaller portions Mourvedre, ‘The Great SchisM’ was sourced from the Riviere Galets Estate Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks District AVA. Aged in French foudre (100%), this limited production bottling opens with red currants that mingle with lighter wet stone and Hoisin sauce aromas that all meld together in the glass. The freshness imparted is fantastic, as bright acidity runs through the core of red fruits, blood orange zest and damp wet stone and green olive tapenade flavors. This is utterly fantastic in its youth, but has another decade to go. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Whistling Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- Rich black fruits and chocolate tones round out the nose. The palate has good freshness with medium-bodied red and dark fruit flavors. While this is well-made  and well-balanced, I would like a bit more richness considering the varietal and the vineyard site. Drink 2020-2024- 89

2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Reserve’ Syrah- The 2017 ‘Reserve’ Syrah by Tertulia Cellars was largely sourced from the Riviere Galets Estate Vineyard in the Walla Walla Rocks District AVA. Highly perfumed, the Syrah opens with smoked brisket that collide with lavender and violets on the nose. The palate has a good sense of elegance with a lovely mineral backbone. Black and red fruits dance with minerals and orange zest flavors with hints of tobacco leaf on this expansive palate. This finishes long with black fruits and minerals. A delight to enjoy in its youth, the 2017 ‘Reserve’ Syrah should cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2016 Tertulia Cellars ‘Phinny Hill Vineyard’ Carmenere- Sourced from the Phinny Hill Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, the 2016 Carmenere opens with classic herbal tones of green bell pepper and dried sage with black fruits all connecting on the nose. The palate has good freshness with medium-bodied dark fruit and chocolate flavors, with green bell pepper accents. What this doesn’t have in weight it makes up for it in Bordelaise character and downright delicious black fruit flavors. Drink 2020-2026- 90

2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- Deeply colored in the glass, the 2017 ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc shows lighter wet stone with red bell pepper and blackberry cobbler aromas that all build together in the glass. The palate unveils a silky mouthfeel with bright acidity and black and blue fruits mingling with the lovely sense of tension that runs through the core of the wine. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2016 Tertulia Cellars ‘Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The smoky tones entice on the nose which mingle with the blackberry pie and dried herbal aromatics which all meld in the glass. The palate shows off a silky texture, delivering generous dark fruits that mingle with the chocolate covered espresso bean tones. This is fantastic now and will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Ryans’ Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2017 Tertulia Cellars ‘Ryans’ Reserve’ Red Wine is crafted by both winemaker Ryan Raber and winegrower Ryan Driver. The final blending was 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Malbec sourced from the Elevation, Riviere Galets and Whistling Hills Vineyard. Deep and brooding dark fruits collide with milk chocolate and undertones of black licorice and red bell pepper aromas that all mingle in the glass. The palate unveils good freshness with medium-bodied dark fruit and milk chocolate with sagebrush flavors. The long finish is exceedingly gratifying. Drink 2020-2029- 91

2017 Tierra Labrada ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Merlot- The 2017 Tierra Labrada ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Merlot is a highly unique bottling by the talented Ryan Raber. Right out of the gate this shows bright red fruits that mingle with shades of dark plum, and exotic spices that all connect together in the glass. The palate has good freshness and acidity, delivering medium-bodied flavors of red licorice that mingle with the light citrus rind and red currant with red cherry puree flavors. This is best enjoyed in its youth while the wonderful brightness and high tones shine most brightly. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 Tierra Labrada ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from the esteemed Elevation Vineyard in the North Fork of the Walla Walla river, the 2017 Tierra Labrada Cabernet Sauvignon opens with aromatic of Black Forest Cake, and dried sage that take shape in the glass. The palate shows excellent freshness, delivering medium-bodied blackberry pie, sagebrush, roasted date and dark chocolate shaving flavors. Like its evil twin, the 2017 Tierra Labrada ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Merlot, the 2017 Tierra Labrada ‘Elevation Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is best suited to savor in the first five years of its development, while the wonderful brightness remains. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2017 Tierra Labrada ‘Elevation Vineyard’ Petit Verdot- Dense and massive, the 2017 Tierra Labrada shows soft and layered blackberry pie, mocha, anise and chocolate covered espresso bean flavors, with leafy undertones. Complex and downright delicious right now, the 2017 Tierra Labrada Petit Verdot will cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2020-2027- 91

ROCO Winery

My best friend and I began visiting Oregon wine country in 2002. We were both finishing up our senior years at Whitman College and knew next to nothing about wine. One of the wineries that was most compelling to me at the time was those made at Argyle. They had created a tremendous sparkling wine program that seemed remarkably consistent. I became exceedingly fond of those wines as well as the wonderful Pinot Noirs made there by legendary winemaker, Rollin Soles. 

I long admired the wines that Rollin made at Argyle and began purchasing them in 2002 until he started his own winery project, ROCO winery. Sadly I have very few of those wines left [they were so good they miraculously vanished] but I remember some incredible ones like the 2002 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ which I was fortunate enough to revisit over the Christmas holiday. Needless to say, the wine is still absolutely singing. 

Rollin only recently began making sparkling wines again at his namesake winery and are all very glad that he did. His 2015 ‘RMS Rose’ made its way on our 2019 WWB Top 100 and his new sparkling wines are simply thrilling — as compelling as any of their kind made in Oregon. Look to the 2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 94) which has a beautiful mousse and silky texture that truly entices. Rollin has crafted a thrilling new Pinot Noir bottling with his 2017 ROCO ‘Private Stash No. 15’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which is rich, viscous and downright delicious in its youth. This total stunner will cellar well for decades to come. Learn more about these outstanding wines at rocowinery.com. Here are the beautiful new wines by ROCO and superstar winemaker Rollin Soles.

2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- A brilliant follow up to the 2015 bottling, the 2016 ‘RMS’ opens with an intense bouquet of bright green apples that meld with shades of nutmeg infused sourdough bread and lemon curd that all come together in the glass. The balance imparted here is simply marvelous as the wine shows a silky mousse and marvelous texture that shows off this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley. Fantastic in its nascent phase, the 2016 ‘RMS’ will enjoy at least another decade of life ahead of it — but is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2020-2030- 94

2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Rose Sparkling Wine- The 2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Rose Sparkling Wine is a simply magical new Rose Sparkling Wine that rivals anything in its kind. The wine is a simply stunning release by famed winemaker Rollin Soles that will have a long life ahead of it in the cellar. Once on the nose you are awoken to bright cranberry and citrus zest aromatics that combine with suggestions of teaberry and white pepper that all meld together in the glass. The silky mousse entices as bright red fruits collect momentum with mineral and citrus rind accents the all sing in harmony on the palate. Bright and dense, with a silky mouthfeel, the 2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Rose Sparkling Wine will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 ROCO ‘The Stalker’ Pinot Noir- This intriguing wine mixes Pinot Noir grapes with mature grape stalks. The nose is generous with bright red fruits that meld with lighter damp earthy toners that all come together in the glass. The palate is plush, showing round and generous red fruit flavors with baking spice and lighter citrus rind tones. Fantastic and marvelously textured in its youth, enjoy this ‘Stalker’ over the next seven to ten years. Drink 2020-2027- 92

2017 ROCO ‘Private Stash No. 15’ Pinot Noir- This is the 15th edition of this limited edition wine made by legendary Oregon producer Rollin Soles. The nose is exceedingly good ranging from black truffle shavings and peat moss to wild blackberry and suggestions of red currant jelly that all mingle together on the nose. The palate has a seamless quality that effortlessly glides, reveling a range of red fruit flavors alongside bright minerals, orange zest and damp earthy tones. While this is seriously good now, the ‘Private Stash No. 15’ will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2017 ROCO ‘Knudsen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Rollin Soles has sourced from this esteemed vineyard for more than a decade. The resultant 2017 edition shows gorgeous aromatic range from red currants to sandalwood tones as well as lemon zest and shades of white truffle that all come together marvelously in the glass. The palate is full-bodied and generous, with wonderful length and verve. Guava puree and red raspberry cordial collide with suggestions of wild mushroom, peat moss and copious minerals. Bright, with outstanding richness, the 2017 ‘Knudsen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir will enjoy a long time in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2017 ROCO ‘Marsh Estate’ Pinot Noir- The simply magical ‘Marsh Estate’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous new wine from Rollin Soles. The brightness and downright awesome texture of the wine really excites the senses. Bright red fruits collide with high-toned citrus rind accents and earthy undertones on the palate. Fantastic in its youth, the 2017 ‘Marsh Estate’ will enjoy a decade or more in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 93

Perinet

One of the truly exciting projects out of Priorat, Perinet is an inspired winery which was first started in 2004. The owners of Alpha Omega, who craft world class Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are investors in this project. Years ago the owners were impressed by the wines of Priorat that are largely Grenache based but have other varietals blended in. These are wines that are quite different to those from top producers Clos Erasmus and Clos Mogador — but the new Perinet wines truly rival anything out of this region. 

I found out about this project years ago when I visited Alpha Omega and met with their director of communications, Kelly Carter. Kelly had just made her voyage to Priorat, visiting the winery and trying the new wines. My ears perked up when I heard about the Alpha Omega investment as I have been enamored by the overall quality of the Alpha Omega wines for years. Kelly fawned over these new wines that I simply had to taste.

For those who have come to love the great wines of Jean Hoeflieger at Alpha Omega, you will be pleased to hear that he helps consult on these wines, made by the talented Antoni Sánchez-Ortiz. Antoni was born on December 4, 1978 in a small valley in Spain’s Pyrenees. He studied winemaking at the University of Tarragona (Spain) and the University Victor Segalen in Bordeaux (France). Toni possesses extensive technical and laboratory skills, further honed by his Master’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Barcelona and has been making wines in Priorat for the past twenty years.

I have been traveling quite a bit over the past month and haven’t had as much time to see my patients. Because I was running low on time with my travels, I brought these new releases to my office to taste. The quiet confines of a my evaluation room really gave me time to focus on the wines.The 2016 Perinet Red Wine Priorat (WWB, 94) is dense, monster of a wine that is largely Grenache, Syrah and Carignan with a small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Rich and showing layers of dark and blue fruits, this is a stunning wine for the cellar. Even better was the 2016 Perinet ‘1194’ Priorat (WWB, 96) which totally floored me with its massive core of red and dark fruits alongside great poise. This true heavyhitter is nothing short of a magical effort that will evolve for decades to come. Learn more about this great new winery at https://www.perinetwinery.com. Here are the stunning new wines by Perinet. 

2016 Perinet ‘Merit’ Priorat- The ‘Merit’ is a blend of mostly Merlot and Syrah, with smaller portions Garnatxa and Carinyena. The beautiful earthy and red fruit aromatics entice with lighter flinty undertones that all take place in the glass. The palate has good freshness with medium to full-bodied kirsch, underbrush and bulls blood flavors with citrus rind accents. Complex and downright delicious in its youth, the ‘Merit’ will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2016 Perinet Red Wine Priorat- The 2016 Perinet Red Wine is a stunning blend of Garnatxa (33%), Syrah (25%), and Carinyena (25%), with 16% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Deeply perfumed once in the glass, the Perinet shows red rose water with shades of anise, black licorice and copious red fruits with wet stone accents that all meld together in the glass. The palate is dense and polished, showing off its silky mouthfeel and voluptuous texture. Deep Hoisin sauce with rich red and black fruits dance with minerals and damp earthy undertones. Every bit stunning in its youth, the 2016 Perinet Red Wine will cellar well for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2020-2035- 94

2016 Perinet ‘1194’ Priorat- A blend of primarily Garnatxa, with a small part Carignan, the ‘1194’ is a stunning new wine that truly showcases this region in an extravagant style. Black fruits and spicy undertones dominate the nose with the damp stone terroir combining marvelously in the glass. Fleshy, with a dense and polished texture, the wine shows moderate tannins that line a deep core of red and dark fruits with sagebrush, milk chocolate and white pepper undertones on the palate. Massive, with serious poise and richness, the ‘1194’ is a tour de force in this region that is unlike any other I have sampled. Drink 2022-2040- 96

Buil & Gine

Today we venture across the Atlantic to DOCa Priorat, which is located in Catalonia, not too far from Barcelona. For years I have been somewhat infatuated by this region and have visited several years back. The terroir from this mountainous region is just insanely cool. The region produces some of the great wines of the world including Clos Erasmus and Clos Mogador. If you have never tried any of the great wines from Priorat, you are in for a serious treat. 

Buil & Gine mainly makes wines from the DOCa Priorat, but also makes wines from the DO Montsant,  DO Rueda and  DO Toro regions. The winery was founded in the winter of 1996 and in the spring of 1998, they introduced their first wine, Giné Giné 1997. The wine was named after the founder’s grandfather who had always been a wine grower and active member of the wine industry in Priorat. Their Priorat winery even has a four star hotel and restaurant for luxurious visits. 

One of their great new releases in their 2018 Buil & Gine ‘Joan Gine’ Blanc (WWB, 92) has an awesome range of flavors and shows great freshness. This winer makes an outstanding Rose and their 2019 Buil & Gine ‘Gine Rosat’ Priorat (WWB, 91) has incredible freshness and is beautifully textured with bright red fruits and citrus rind accents. Learn more about this fantastic w9nery at http://www.builgine.com Here are the great new releases by Buil & Gine. 

2017 Buil & Gine ‘Gine Gine’ Priorat- An equal blend of old vine Grenache and Carignan, the 2017 ‘Gine Gine’ opens with very pretty red rose petals aromatics and shades of lavender that combine with the ripe red fruits and citrus rind tones that are woven together in the glass. The palate is soft, round and elegant, showing off a silky mouthfeel. Medium-bodied sour kirsch, cran-orange and sweet pipe tobacco flavors combine with the bright sense of minerality and silky mouthfeel. This is seriously good for the price. Drink 2020-2027- 91

2018 Buil & Gine ‘Gine Rosat’ Rose- The ‘Gine Rosat’ Rose is a thrilling new wine from this great Priorat estate. The freshness and wonderful sense of minerality entices, as its silky texture and soft mouthfeel combines with the delicate red fruit, orange rind and wet stone flavors. I love the combination of viscosity and tension here. Drink 2020-2025- 91

2018 Buil & Gine ‘Joan Gine’ Priorat Blanco- The 2018 ‘Joan Gine’ Blanco is a seriously good blend of 50% White Garnacha, 25% Macabeo, 20% Viognier and 5% Pedro Ximenez and Muscat. Showing better at a warmer temperature, the silky texture entices as bright pear and kiwi flavors collide with shades of lemon blossom and nutmeg on this complex palate. Fantastic now, this will evolve well for at least another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2014 Buil & Gine ‘Joan Gine’ Priorat- The 2014 ‘Joan Gine’ Priorat is a gorgeous offering by Buil & Gine. The wine is an impressive blend of 45% Red Garnacha, 40% Cariñena and equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that was aged in 300L American and French oak barrels for 12 months before bottling. The freshness and bright red fruits really impress, as a light dusting of salinity collides with shades of black tea and exotic spices on the palate. With wonderful viscosity and acidity, the 2014 ‘Joan Gine’ will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2020-2033- 93

Domaine Drouhin Oregon

One of the true Oregon Wine Pioneers, Domaine Drouhin Oregon (DDO) has become one of the best producers of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for more than a decade. Wines are moderately priced and reflect their rich Burgundian history. ounded back in in the 1980s, the DDO was founded by famed Burgundy producer, Domaine Drouhin, headed by Robert Drouhin, who decided to purchase land in the Dundee Hills. What was previously only Christmas trees and wheat, the Drouhin family began planting their first vineyards in Oregon. Robert chose his daughter, Véronique, to serve as DDO winemaker, and her brother Philippe Drouhin took responsibility for viticulture.  In 1988, DDO produced its first vintage, from purchased grapes, and in 1989 they built their landmark, four-story gravity flow winery.

I recently had the chance to taste with their general manager, David Millman, and was blown away with the quality of the wines across the board. Prior to professionally reviewing Oregon wines, Domaine Drouhin Oregon has been one of my favorite stops since I first visited the Willamette Valley in 2002. My uncle, Dr. Brian Lueth, first introduced me to this estate, with some epic ‘Laurene’ bottling from the 1990s and early 2000s. Needless to say, quality has remained very high at this famed Oregon estate. Those wines are still singing as I have recently sampled the 2002 ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir, which is marvelously earthy and still has a ton of poise.

The new release  Pinot Noir wines were downright thrilling, coming from the exciting 2017 vintage. This was a warm vintage that saw a few heat spikes which could be a challenge for some wineries. The 2017 Domaine Drouhin Oregon ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) is a dense and layered effort that has striking minerality and massive cellaring potential. I was totally blown away with their barrel selection wine that can only be purchased at the winery, their 2017 Domaine Drouhin Oregon ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 95) which is a true heavyhitter of a wine that has a silky mouthfeel and is incredibly polished even in its exciting youthful progression. Learned more about this iconic Oregon winery  at http://www.domainedrouhin.com/ Here are the awesome new releases from Domaine Drouhin Oregon. 

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay- The 2017 ‘Arthur’ Chardonnay is a spectacular new wine by Domaine Drouhin. On the nose this takes on wonderful buttered brioche and banana with wet stone aromatics that meld together in the glass. The palate has great freshness and verve, with a lovely texture. Bright green apple flavors collide with minerals and vanilla cream. The long finish lingers. Drink 2020-2030- 92

2018 Domaine Drouhin ‘Edition Limitee’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Edition Limitee’ Chardonnay is a gorgeous new bottling from this famed estate in the Willamette Valley. On the nose you are immediately drawn to butterscotch and toasted hazelnut tones that come together in the glass. The combination of weight, freshness and texture is downright ethereal. Full-bodied, the seamless quality, almost weightless effect mid-palate is stunning. This finishes extremely long with minerals and vanilla cream. This wine is so seamless and downright delicious that you are constantly brought back to the glass for more delight. Truly a heavyhitter, the 2018 ‘Edition Limitee’ Chardonnay will truly be one for the ages. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir shows wonderful white truffle tones that meld with the core of red and dark fruits on this expressive nose. The palate is marvelously well-balanced with bright red cherry and red raspberry tones that connect with shades of teaberry and damp earth. The freshness and richness of the wine is downright outstanding. While marvelous in its youth, the 2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir will cellar well for the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 93

2016 Domaine Drouhin ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir is a delightful effort that is showing marvelously in its youth but will provide great drinking enjoyment for decades to come. On the nose this shows off its marvelous damp earth tones that meld with shades of wild blackberry pie and cloves that all mingle together in the glass. The aromatic range is seriously good.  The palate is full-bodied and has simply thrilling texture and range from showing red fruits to exotic spices and lovely peat moss and forest floor tones. Gorgeous now, this simply thrilling wine will have another twenty years ahead of it. Drink 2021-2040- 95

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Laurene’ Pinot Noir- Released in Fall 2020, the 2017 ‘Laurene’ isa magical new bottling that has decades to go in the cellar. Not needing a decant, right out of the gate this lively wine opens with lovely black truffle and damp earth tones that meld with red raspberry cordial and shades of cinnamon and clove that all take shape in the glass. The palate is artfully balanced, with scintillating length and texture. Rich dark fruits combine with the peat moss and damp earth tones on the palate. Marvelous in its youth, the 2017 ‘Laurene’ will have a long life ahead of it. Try to give this at least 1-2 years of bottle age before enjoying. Drink 2022-2040- 95

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Louise’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Louise’ Pinot Noir is a magical effort from Domaine Drouhin. Showing serious weight and length, the wine has intense black and red fruits that exotic spices, black truffle and shades of blood orange zest. Full-bodied and intense, this beautiful wine really needs a year or two to fully develop. Drink 2022-2040- 94

2017 Domaine Drouhin ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot Noir- The 2017 ‘Edition Limitee ‘Pinot Noir is a simply magical new wine by famed winemaker Veronique Drouhin. Needing a lot of time in the bottle to fully unwind, the ‘Edition Limitee’ Pinot now has serious range from red currants to red raspberry cordial and baking spices alongside damp earth tones that all come together magically on the palate. Showing great freshness and verve, the 2017 ‘Edition Limitee’ will have many years to go. Drink 2023-2040- 95

Champagne Bollinger

One of the great historic houses in Champagne, Bollinger remains independently owned and operated. This Champagne house has an exceedingly rich history. Family-managed since 1889, Bollinger maintains more than 150 hectares of vineyards. They produce several labels of their Champagne, including the Vieilles Vignes Françaises, Grande Année and R.D. as well as the non-vintage Special Cuvée. Initially founded in 1829 by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger, the champagne house has roots dating back to 1585 when the Hennequins, one of the Bollinger founding families, owned land in Cramant. In 1803 Jacques Joseph Placide Bollinger was born in Ellwangen, in the kingdom of Wurttemberg, in modern day western Germany. In 1822, he moved to the Champagne region and began work at the Champagne house of Muller Ruinart, which today no longer exists. 

The Champagne house Renaudin Bollinger was founded on February 6, 1829 in Aÿ by Hennequin de Villermont, Paul Levieux Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger. Founder Jacques Joseph Bollinger married Charlotte de Villermont and their two sons Joseph and Georges would later take over Bollinger and began expanding the family estate by purchasing vineyards in nearby villages. The sons also developed the image of the brand, and the British began to take notice of these Champagnes — such as when Bollinger received a Royal Warrant in 1884 from Queen Victoria.

In 1918 Jacques Bollinger, the son of Georges, took over Bollinger. Jacques married Lily, who later took over Bollinger in 1941. Lily expanded production through the purchase of more vineyards, but is best known for traveling the world to promote the brand. Bollinger was modernized under the direction of Claude d'Hautefeuille, who acquired additional vineyards and developed the brand internationally. Since 1994, Ghislain de Mongolfier has managed Bollinger. A great-grandson of the founder, Mongolfier has also served as president of the Association Viticole Champenoise since 2004, after heading the Commission of Champagne for 10 years. Brilliantly, Bollinger has been well-marketed in numerous James Bond films including some of my favorites like Live and Let Die and a bottle of Bollinger during an epic car race during the start of Goldeneye. 

I recently had a chance to review two Bollinger wines — one that was youthful and another that was highly vinous. I was very impressed with their new release non-vintage wine, the NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Brut Champagne (WWB, 91) which is seriously good, with great musty tones and freshness. I had the opportunity to try the 2002 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ Brut Champagne (WWB, 95) which showed even more earthy and musty terroir and great citrus and tree fruit flavors. This was a truly special bottle that I will not soon forget. Learn more about this special Champagne house at Here are the great Champagnes of Bollinger.

NV Champagne Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ Brut Champagne-  The NV ‘Special Cuvee’ by Bollinger is a fantastic new release Champagne that has wonderful verve and energy. Marvelously textured the wine shows off toasty brioche and wild mushroom tertiary tones alongside a core of green apple and nutmeg flavors. This has the stuffing and energy to cellar for another decade. Drink 2020-2030- 91

2002 Champagne Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ Brut Champagne- This richly hued Champagne is a compelling blend of primarily Pinot Noir smaller portions Chardonnay. I absolutely adore where the 2002 ‘La Grand Annee’ is showing now at the eighteen year mark. For the price, this is up there with many of the great wines made from this stellar vintage in Champagne. Aromatically intense, the wine ranges from sourdough bread and lively Gravenstein apples to suggestions of honeydew melon and exotic spices that all take shape in the glass. The richness and tension of the wine is simply marvelous. Generous and round, the 2002 ‘La Grand Annee’ takes on nutmeg infused Challah bread and suggestions of Pink Lady apple with kumquat zest and shades of white truffle shavings on the palate. The long finish lingers on the tongue. Fully gratifying and absolutely singing at this stage in its development, the 2002 Bollinger ‘La Grand Annee’ will have another two decades to go in the cellar. Drink 2020-2038- 95

Review: British Airways First Class, London to Seattle

It isn’t every day that you are able to fly First Class on British Airways. But when you do, you savor every minute. This is now my third time doing First Class on British Airways and the level of service and overall experience is different but rivals flying First Class on Cathay Pacific, and is only slightly short of Emirates First Class as does literally every airline in the world. It was a highly memorable journey back to Seattle.

Admittedly, I hadn’t planned on that unique travel experience at all. Upon arrival to Terminal 5 at London Heathrow I had thankfully been upgraded to Business Class, thanks to my good friend, Deano’s, generosity. Check in at Terminal 5 was going marvelously and when I asked for a paid upgrade, I was nearly floored when I found that a paid upgrade to First Class would be 550 pounds. This not only would give me one of the premier flying experiences but would also afford a long visit to one of the world’s great airport lounges, the Concorde Room. Entrance to the Concorde Room is only allowed with a long-haul paid ticket in First Class — unless you have the top tier status with British Airways which will grant you access regardless of ticket status. My generous friend has formerly had the top tier status at British and he had graciously gifted me into the Concorde Room several times. I was due to return the favor. We had plenty of time since we had arrived around 11:00 in the morning and my plane was set to depart at 14:45.

As we entered the First Class security screening, I was impressed how quickly we advanced to the other side. We marched past the First Class lounge and into the Concorde Room where we were greeted by reception and made our way to the beautifully appointed bar area. It had been a year since my last visit to the Concorde Room and an espresso martini was in mind to start my long voyage out. My friend ordered one of the premier champagnes of the world, the NV Laurent Perrier ‘Grand Siecle’ Champagne (WWB, 95) which is a non-vintage champagne that is now in its 24th edition and pulls from vintages more than a decade of age. After indulging in part of my martini I ordered a glasses ‘Grand Siecle’ to properly mark the occasion as we both toasted to the good life.

The bar area had several canapés which we indulged in. We chatted about our football weekend, visiting the Emirates Stadium and watching firsthand as my beloved Arsenal pulled off a glorious victory some two days before. The Concorde Room also pours one of the great sparkling wines in England, the 2015 Hattingley Valley ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine (WWB, 93) which is dense and layered, showing great chalky terroir and comes from an electric vintage in Hampshire. Ironically I had visited this great winery only the day before.

We were both growing rather hungry and made our way to the First dining experience at the Concorde Room which is run as a great restaurant. Sitting down into our private booth we ordered a glass of Champagne and I tried their burger which was perfectly cooked, medium rare and had pieces of well-salted pancetta bacon and an unusually good special sauce.

I wanted to order a classic British dish as well and reveled in their ‘Chicken Supreme’ which was soft and buttery with a juicy texture. The sinfully good, Bordelaise style sauce had great richness and showed a heavy dusting of peppercorn spice. 

It was now time to depart the Concorde Room as I said my goodbyes to my friend and made my way to the aircraft. Boarding was quick and expedient as you would expect with British Airways flights. Immediately I was greeted by the flight attendants and my individual stewardess, Sarah, who showed me to seat ‘1A’ which was located at the top right of the aircraft. I sat down and stretched my 6’5’’ legs all the way which was remarkably comfortable.

Immediately we were served a glass of champagne, their signature NV Laurent Perrier ‘Grand Siecle’ Champagne which I had enjoyed in the Concorde Room. My flight attended expertly opened a bottle and poured me a glass as I glanced at the other planes on the runway. 

The controls for your seat are operated by a hand-held remote which was easy to use. I asked for some headphones which were noise-cancelling and extremely comfortable. Pajamas were given to me, a modern upgrade from the last set that I had on my flight last year. Their toilet kit was also recently upgraded, with a highly modern, suede bag. The one thing I would say is British First should really offer a pajama size XL as the L size doesn’t fit people as tall as me. I slipped on my pajamas and perused the menu and wine list. 

In the dining section I read about the cutlery choice for the first class cabin which is made in England and added to the fine dining experience high above the clouds. The wine list was marked by the stunning aforementioned Champagne which is up there with the top wine/Champagne served in any First Class cabin. I loved seeing the 2015 Hattingley Valley ‘Blanc de Noirs’ served as well since I have long reviewed those wines and have visited the winery now on two occasions. I found their Rose Champagne, the NV Lanson ‘Rose’ Champagne (WWB, 90) to be good but rather pedestrian compared to the other two downright killer selections. 

I was generally unimpressed with the rest of the wine list, including middle-tier Bordeaux from the unheralded 2012 vintage and a brand new 2018 Chablis which served its purpose but left me wanting more. Fortunately for me, I kept my old reliable top tier Champagne flowing. British Airways really should serve a top notch Bordeaux wine in their First Class cabin. Compared to other top First Class cabins (Emirates, Cathay Pacific etc.) the British Airways wine list really could improve with some expert help from a good wine reviewer or writer. Then again, on my last Emirates flight I savored 2007 Opus One, so that is indeed an exceedingly high standard of wine to be served high above the clouds.

We effortlessly took off and soon were served some starters, which were chosen to match my top notch Champagne. They were all excellent and were taken down within a few moments. Extra points goes to British for placing a few morsels of Osteria Caviar on their prawn appetizer. That one was particularly savored. 

Sarah graciously prepared my table and I sampled some fresh breads with a smattering of olive oil. I wanted to order several menu items, so it was a challenge choosing them. The menu had so many delightful selections that it was exceedingly difficult to choose. I chose a few mainstays in my diet, the creamy burrata with pesto and beetroot, as well as the local Scottish smoked salmon which was served with fennel and mustard dressing.

Both portions were perfect and the salmon in particular was very fresh and satisfying, thickly cut and highly satisfying. The mustard sauce beautifully connected with the salty flavors. I was persuaded by Sarah, to try their Vichyssoise soup which she poured in front of me. 

For my main dish I ordered the pan fried fillet of Halibut which was served in a rich and savory crab sauce. I was floored with the quality of this dish as this was perfectly soft in the middle and magically paired with the saline steak in the Champagne. Simply put, it was a match made in heaven. Food quality throughout was not only very high but the way that the food was served and the plating was second to none. Each dish looked simply marvelous.

I was not thrilled with either dessert wine, as British always could do better in this direction. If nothing else, they should choose a Sauternes that has some age, which is not difficult to do or find. Sauternes from the 2015 vintage are simply not ready to drink at the moment. Dessert, the chocolate chili fondant, was delightful on its own without a wine accompiament. 

However disappointing the dessert wine selection might have been, the shining star of the First Class experience was the exemplary level of service that I experienced throughout my flight. Whether it was preparing my bed for some rest, chatting about the wine industry, or serving wine and food, Sarah was absolutely top notch throughout. This is the kind of service that truly rivals Emirates First Class and really puts any United States operated First Class cabin to shame (American, Alaska, United etc.).

It was time for some rest, but beforehand a nightcap was in order. I ordered one of my favorite Scotch whiskeys, the Johny Walker Blue Label which is a blended whiskey that in my opinion rivals anything in its price range ($250.00). I enjoyed my three plus hour slumber and then woke up comfortably. Special kudos to British Airways in designing a face mask that not only fits my large head but is sinfully plush and comfortable. 

It was now time to indulge in afternoon tea. This was done in typical British high style, as the scones served were freshly baked and rich. I savored the jam and buttered filled scone as the experience harkened back to my childhood and the smell of scones baking in the oven. Since First Class were offering some other food  items, I ordered some more smoked salmon and a quail egg which was light and perfectly suited for another glass of Champagne. We slowly made our decent across the Canadian rockies and into eastern Washington before our arrival. What an beautiful journey it was back to Seattle and I most certainly will be back enjoying a beautiful First Class experience with British Airways.

Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne

One of the great historic Champagne houses, Louis Roederer only produces their ‘Cristal’ Champagne in specific vintages. ‘Cristal’ Champagne was created in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II. The emperor asked Louis Roederer to reserve the House’s best cuvée for him every year as he was fond of Louis Roederer’s style. This Champagne was initially distinguished by being presented in a flat-bottomed, transparent lead-crystal bottle. The ‘Cristal’ brand was named after the lead-crystal bottle, which is particularly transparent and luminous. ‘Cristal’ Champagne blending is typically around 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, although that varies on the vintage. Cristal is aged for 6 years in Louis Roederer’s cellars and then left for a further 8 months after dégorgement. The ‘Cristal’ Rose Champagne is always composed of estate fruit and the wine is primarily fermented and aged in steel, but roughly 15-20% of the blend is aged in oak. Over time the cellar master has been lowering dosage to 8-9 g/l. 

They have just released their 2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Champagne (WWB, 97) which is an absolutely stunning wine that presents better out of a white wine glass (Riedel Sauvignon Blanc in particular) rather than champagne flutes. The wine is dense and layered, with serious range and tension. It really needs another year or two in the bottle to fully present itself but it is every bit stunning right now. This marvelous wine has decades to go.

Learn more about this great Champagne at http://www.louis-roederer.com/en/wine/cristal

2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Chanpagne- The 2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Chanpagne is a thrilling, dense new offering from this historic house. On the nose this takes on rich brioche and baked Pazzaz apple flavors that combine with lighter kumquat and marzipan tones that all meld in the glass. Fresh and vibrant, with a remarkably silky mousse, the weight and richness of this wine is impressive, while the bright character provides a wonderful foil. Rich layers of lemon zest dusted brioche with toasted hazelnut and Gravenstein apple with lighter vanilla cream and starfruit tones seamlessly combine on the palate. As several hours develop, the wine pieces itself together more magically with the intense citrus components melding with its weighty stature. Marvelous at this stage in its development, the 2012 Louis Roederer ‘Cristal’ Chanpagne will have an exceedingly long life ahead of it. Try to give this at least another year of bottle development before savoring. Drink 2021-2040- 97

Long Shadows Vintners

As we carry on through this glorious Washington Wine Month, I wanted to introduce you to one of the stars of our 3rd Annual Critic’s Choice of Washington Event — Long Shadows Vintners. Long Shadows has made their name by crafting outstanding red wines with a superstar cast of winemaking talent that spans the globe. I have tasted at Long Shadows for well over a decade and year in, year out, they are one of the most consistently good producers of Washington red wine. Their wines age marvelously as well. Over the past year I have had a chance to try a few absolutely epic bottles of their ‘Pedestal’ Merlot, made by famed enologist Michel Rolland. The 2006 and 2007 ‘Pedestal’ Merlot wines are still going strong.

Yesterday I reviewed the new Long Shadows releases for review and they were simply magical. The 2017 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) has incredible earthy character and beautiful range. This is a truly one of a kind wine that rivals any new world Sangiovese.  I adored the new 2017 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which is remarkable in its youth but will provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. This is truly thrilling Washington Cabernet with its wonderful sense of place and elegance, alongside a dense core of dark fruits. Learn more about this amazing winery at http://www.longshadows.com/ Here are the amazing new release wines from Long Shadows.

2017 Long Shadows ‘Saggi’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Saggi’ by Long Shadows is a thrilling follow up to the gorgeous 2016 bottling. A blend of mainly Sangiovese (59%) with smaller portions Cabernet Sauvignon (24%) and Syrah (17%), the ‘Saggi’ is truly a one of a kind wine made by the talented Giles Nicault. Needing a one hour decant to be fully aroused, the ‘Saggi’ shows lovely smoky tones that meld with red cherry preserves, leather and underbrush aromatics that all build in the glass. The palate is silky and soft, with a bright sense of minerality and wonderful texture. You are greeted to a rich core of red fruits that dance with citrus rind accents, milk chocolate and damp stone tones on the palate. Showing wonderful length and elegance, the 2017 ‘Saggi’ is wonderful to enjoy in its youth and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2020-2033- 94

2017 Long Shadows ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Made by superstar winemaker, Randy Dunn, of Dunn Vineyards, the 2017 ‘Feather’ by Long Shadows is a masterful effort from this exciting warmer vintage in Washington. Once on the nose there is a lovely round core of toasty oak that wraps around the rich dark fruits, sagebrush and chocolate fudge aromatics that all meld in the glass. The palate is silky smooth, revealing a round and generous mouthfeel. The seamless effect created mid-palate is utterly fantastic. Black currants and blackberry cordial dance with shades of Black Forest Cake and espresso bean on this highly complex palate. This finishes long with dark fruits and a beam of minerality. While enticing to savor now, the 2017 ‘Feather’ will have a long life ahead of it. If enjoying in its youth, be sure to afford a two hour decant prior to enjoying. Drink 2021-2040- 95

Le Pigeon and Canard PDX

Last weekend I had the great opportunity to meet one of the Pacific Northwest’s true culinary geniuses @fitchefpdx Gabriel Rucker, owner of @lepigeonpdx which I consider one of the top restaurants in our region. Humble and down to earth, Gabriel crafts his dishes using the freshest ingredients and his creative lens crafts preparations like Foie GrasTom Kha or the Thai style crispy trout lettuce wrap (upper R). He is a dedicated athlete and pushes those in the restaurant industry to exercise pre and post-shift rather than meet for drinks. Gabriel is an inspiration to our Pacific Northwest food and wine community.