Upchurch Vineyard

Not only one of my favorite wineries to visit but one of the finest producers on Red Mountain, Upchurch Vineyard is a sight to be seen. Located in the southwestern part of the AVA, the winery has expansive views of the Columbia Valley from their estate create an incredible panoramic effect. For those who have never visited Upchurch Vineyard, I implore you to visit if nothing else for the beauty of the site.

One of the legends in Washington wine, Chris Upchurch crafted the finest Bordeaux style white wine for DeLille, the ‘Chaleur Estate Blanc’ in the mid-1990s. This wine has achieved incredible acclaim since that time and not only is one of the great white wines made in Washington but it rivals any Bordeaux Blanc style wines made in the new world.

Chris crafts one of the great Sauvignon Blancs in Washington, his 2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Southwest Facing’ Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 93) has an amazing combination of finesse and texture. It is a steal at under 40 dollars. Equally good for the price at under 30 dollars is the new 2021 LTL Rose (OB, 92) which is made from Mourvedre grapes and is nearly impossible to put down .I love the new 2020 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is clean and dense — a massive success from this challenging vintage. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://upchurchvineyard.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Upchurch Vineyard.

2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Southwest Facing’ Sauvignon Blanc- This beautiful 2020 Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from the Boushey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Stored for eighteen months in concrete egg tanks, this offers white peach, toasted cashew nut and saline drenched gooseberry notes that all sing in unison. The palate is rich and concentrated with a seamless texture and generous length. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 93

2021 LTL Rose- Made from Moruvedre grapes, the 2021 LTL Rose is a delightful new bottling that shows outstanding finesse and concentration. Once on the attack a kiss of sweetness greets you, as guava puree, cranberry, red rose water and flinty minerals combine with shades of wild mushroom on the palate. Outstanding to consume now, this will hold for at least another five years. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2020 LTL Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 LTL Cabernet Sauvignon is an exceptionally made wine from this challenging vintage on Red Mountain. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Upchurch Estate Vineyard, this opens with beautiful black florals alongside tar and rich dark currant tones on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture. Layres of roasted dates combine with boysenberry syrup and milk chocolate on the palate. Enjoy this outstanding value now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2020 LTL ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Very dense and dark once in the glass, the delicious 2020 LTL ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon delivers Black Forest Cake tones alongside tar and anise on the nose. The palate is rich and refined with silky tannins that line the core of black and blue fruits with espresso grounds and scorched earthy undertones. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Counterpart’ Merlot- The 2020 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Counterpart’ is a beautiful effort from this challenging vintage. The Merlot blends in Red Mountain 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, as this was carefully stored in 94% New French Oak (Taransaud & Orion) prior to bottling. Intense red florals and Asian spices mark the nose alongside cassis, worn leather and notes of scorched earth. The palate comes off very clean and fresh, with no rough edges. You are greeted to medium to full-bodied red and dark fruit flavors that meld well with milk chocolate, tobacco leaf and espresso grounds. While outstanding to consume now, this is gorgeous Merlot that will easily cellar well or another decade. But why wait? Drink 2023-2032- 93

2020 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- A resounding success in 2020, this is now the eleventh edition of this wine which is entirely from the Upchurch Estate Vineyard, a small site located in the southwestern part of Red Mountain. Like the 2019, this blends 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with the reminder Merlot. Aged in 100% new Taransaud oak barrels, this shows off toasty oak with pencil lead aromas alongside huckleberry compote, dark chocolate shavings and Turkish coffee notes. The palate is rich and voluptuous, with a silky texture and beautiful structure, showing refined tannins. This is exactly what a top winemaker can do in a difficult vintage. With great viscosity and flavor density, this beauty will show well for at least another fifteen years. Give this an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2038- 95

Frank Family Vineyards

Frank Family Vineyards

Year after year Frank Family Vineyards is one of the great overall lineups of wine that you will taste in the Napa Valley, first founded back in 1992 by Rich and Leslie Frank. Rich Frank is former President of Disney Studios. A world-traveller, Frank knew that Napa Valley was the perfect setting to start a winery. Rich had an incredibly successful career and under his leadership, television and movie properties such as Cheers, Entertainment Tonight, Golden Girls, Ellen, Dead Poet’s Society, Pretty Woman, Aladdin, and The Lion King achieved worldwide acclaim. Rich also is the longest serving President of The Academy of Television Arts and Sciences (Emmys).

Leslie also had an incredibly successful career, spending more than 25 years covering news stories, and the last nine years of her TV news career reporting and anchoring at the number-one-rated station, KABC in Los Angeles. Prior to Los Angeles, Leslie was the main anchor at KCPQ, the FOX affiliate in Seattle, where she helped launch its 10 pm newscast, taking it to number one in its time slot and receiving an Emmy for Outstanding News Anchor. Rich and Leslie are fully invested in Frank Family Vineyards' as they manage everything from vineyard purchases, to sales and marketing.

For years I have been so impressed by the wines made by winemaker Todd Graff who started with Frank Family back in 2003.  He has done an immense job by helping put Napa Chardonnay on the national stage with the wines that he crafts. Do not miss out on his new 2021 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is rich and viscous with great underlying finesse. The best wine that I tasted was the outrageously good 2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Patriarch’ Red Wine (OB, 97) which is dense, chewy and will shine on for decades to come. Learn more about these brilliant new wines at frankfamilyvineyards.com Here are my reviews of the great new wines by Frank Family Vineyards.

2021 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay- The 2021 ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay by Frank Family is a truly outstanding effort by winemaker Todd Graff. Japanese pear, cardamom dusted brioche and suggestions of vanilla creme brûlée all fill the palate, with serious stuffing and underlying minerality. This really fantastic stuff for the price to enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 Frank Family ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir is a delicious bottling from this new vintage. Sassafras, red currants and shades of dill with baking spices all fill the nose. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins and marvelous red fruit-driven concentration. This gets better with more air and enjoy now and over the next ten years. this beautiful wine is best enjoyed over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 Frank Family Vineyards “Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon  a plush and soft edition of this wine that shows baking spices, dark plum and cigar box tones on the nose. The palate is very delicious and rich with light tannins that frame a core of black cherry, black raspberry and chocolate flavors. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘RHF’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a glorious effort from this great vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon. Immediately alluring on the nose, this takes on layers of Christmas fruitcake with wild blackberry, sweet pipe tobacco and suggestions of chocolate covered coffee bean. The palate is plush with great concentration and a deep core of black fruits that parade with freshly tilled soils, menthol and Turkish coffee notes. Finishing long with minerals and plush black fruits, this is a beautiful wine that shows nice elegance and aging potential. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Winston Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outrageously good 2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Winston Hill’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc with a splash of Petit Verdot. Once on the mouth this revels in its big bold black fruit tones alongside blueberry compote, mocha and anise notes alongside very refined tannins. Finishing with serious length, this exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon is already beautifully evolved stuff that will live on for decades. Drink 2024-2045- 96

2019 Frank Family Vineyards ‘Patriarch’ Cabernet Sauvignon- One of the great wines that I have tasted from Frank Family, the stunning 2019 ‘Patriarch’ was stored for 21 months in 75% new French oak barrels prior bottling. Very soft and approachable on the mouth, with refined tannins, this is silky, elegant and very rich Cabernet that is quite simply a joy to drink. Boysenberry preserves combine with espresso grounds, creme de violette, spice box and shades of black licorice all enter the fray on the palate. Powerful yet quite refined, this beauty will live on for decades to come. Be sure to give this two hours in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2025-2047- 97

In Memoriam: Kathy Shiels, Co-Founder of Cote Bonneville

You had to know Kathy to chat with her. She didn’t love small talk but she adored talking about wine. Passionate, thoughtful and genuine, Kathy was extremely gracious to me when I started reviewing wines full-time. Several times I tasted with her face to face in her Sunnyside winery. I will cherish those moments that I had with her.

Kathy had a great career prior to starting a winery with her husband Hugh. Born in 1950 in Minneapolis, Minnesota, Kathy played basketball in high school and later graduated with a degree in physical therapy from the University of Missouri.

She made the plunge and set out for Los Angeles after college where she met her husband Hugh Shiels, M.D. After Hugh completed medical school and his residency they both settled in the Yakima Valley where Kathy worked as a physical therapist in Hugh’s orthopedic surgery practice. She and Hugh Founded the DuBrul Vineyard back in 1992 and later Cote Bonneville winery. She is one of the pioneers of Washington wine and she will be greatly missed by all of the Washington wine community and all that knew and loved her.

Chappellet

Today we share one the great producers of the Napa Valley. Founded by wine pioneer Donn Chappellet, Donn began his wine education by collecting Bordeaux wines while in college. He later ran Interstate United Corporation, a coffee-vending distributorship he co-founded in the mid-1950s, which he helped turn into the third-largest such business in the United States, with more than 7,000 employees and a listing on the New York Stock Exchange.

In 1966 he sold his shares in Interstate United and guided by the legendary winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyards bought 320 acres of rocky mountain terrain at the eastern edge of the Napa Valley. Donn saw this terroir as one which would connect with the great wines of Bordeaux. He saw the potential for Pritchard Hill and initially planted Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon which was met with great critical acclaim. Sadly passing in 2016, Donn became a legend of this great site in the Napa Valley.

A mainstay in the cellar, famed winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus has been at Chappellet remarkably since 1990. A graduate of UC Davis, Phillip spent time traveling to both Bordeaux and Burgundy to learn about these esteemed regions. In 1981, Phillip joined the Chappellet team as assistant winemaker, and then in1990, Donn Chappellet invited Phillip to return to the winery as Chappellet’s winemaker, a position he has held ever since.

These have been consistently great wines. I adored the new 2021 Chappellet ‘Grower Collection Apple Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is fresh and has tons of bright acidity and rich red fruit flavors. Even better is the sensational 2019 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot (OB, 95 which is a downright steal at eighty bucks. Learn more about this famed Napa estate at chappellet.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Chappellet. 

2021 Chappellet ‘Grower Collection Apple Lane Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This 2021 Pinot Noir is sourced from a site that is located roughly nine miles from the Pacific Ocean. Salty and savory on the nose, this shows tart red fruits alongside kumquat and stony undercurrents. The palate is rich and concentrated, with fantastic underlying finesse. This beauty has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2019 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot- This enthralling ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot has 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot blended in. Aged for 22 months in 40% new French oak, this delivers wonderful concentration from this outstanding vintage. Layers of pipe tobacco and graphite are woven together with mocha, and dark chocolate covered black cherry on the palate. A stunner, with impeccable balance, and so good to enjoy now, this will surely live on for another fifteen years. We know that Cab is king but this beauty gives Cab a run for its money. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2019 Chappellet ‘Napa Valley’ Malbec- You won’t find a lot of single varietal Malbec wines from the Napa Valley. This has a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot blended in. Very dark in the glass, this displays a dizzying array of mocha, tar, anise, blackberry cobbler and creosote. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2040- 93

Cava Mestres

Cava Mestres

One of the famed houses in Cava, Mestres is a house that dates all the way back to 1312. As I have said many times, top Cava can rival any sparkling wine in the world. It is a wine all its own and most of the United States does not have the opportunity to taste premier Cava bottlings. The Mestres family dates back the early fourteenth century as a wine negotiants.  They have also owned estate vineyards in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia since at least 1607. Many years later in 1925  Josep Mestres Manobens made his first sparkling wine by blending indigenous varietals Macabeu, Xarel-lo, and Parellada.

Joan Aura serves as cellar master winemaker. They currently source from their 74 acre estate, which is divided into two plots: Clos Damiana and Clos Nostre Senyor as well as some area vineyards. Their vineyard is set on calcareous clay soils. This winery is a must visit. The Cava town of Sadurni d’Antonia is a charming setting roughly one hour from Barcelona. Mestres give their sparkling wines extended time (18 months to 7 years) on the lees in bottle, which contributes to the complexity of the wines. During our cellar tour we had a chance to see some of their wines that have date back fifty years. Like many of Spain’s most celebrated houses, Mestres prides themselves at aging their wines and releasing them when they find them ready. While visiting I was able to view the disgorgement process as well as some bottling while we were there and I was amazed at the attention to detail as the cellar master inspects each individual bottle, regardless of price. They are truly a storied house in sparkling wine. Do not miss on the killer value at around 20 dollars, the 2020 Mestres ‘1312’ Rose Cava (OB, 92) which is sinfully good for the price with bright red fruits and citrus tones. Learn more about this storied winery at http://www.mestres.es/?lang=en Here are the great new wine by Cava Mestres.

2020 Cava Mestres ‘1312 Rose’ Cava- A gorgeous blend of mostly Treppat (50%) with the remainder Monastrell and Pinot Noir, the ‘1311 Rose’ was disgorged in May 2022. This outstanding wine was aged for 2.5 years on the less and was given 6G/L dosage. Dusty soil aromas combine with shades of crushed seashell, orange rind and suggestions of ripe red raspberry all fill the nose. The palate is very fresh and fragrant with a soft mousse. Layers of wild mushroom are woven together with juicy red fruits, with shades of menthol and salty soils on the palate. Complex and delicious now, this will easily cellar for another eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

Doubleback

One of the all-time greats in Washington State Wine, Doubleback is the famed winery founded by NFL legend, Drew Bledsoe and his wife, Maura. The story completes itself as Drew circled back following his brilliant NFL career. Originally from Walla Walla, he was a star at Walla Walla High School before his illustrious tenure at Washington State University. For many years Drew had visions of starting his own winery for many years and going back to Walla Walla was the perfect choice for him. During his years in the NFL he continued to expand his palate, trying various wines of the world. But there was something special about wines from his home state, as he grew to love the balance of the wines of this region that weren’t old world but also weren’t Napa.

It was back in 2007 that Drew returned to Walla Walla to plant his estate vineyard, McQueen on the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Doubleback was born in 2008 which would focus on estate fruit to create world class Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla. Drew knew he needed a top class winemaker and connected with childhood friend and superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, of Leonetti Cellar, who served as consulting winemaker until Josh McDaniels assumed the role in 2015. Josh is one of the finest talents in the state. The wines that he has made are consistently great, year after year.

I am enamored by the 2018 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is a marvelous effort from this challenging vintage. Even better is the sensational 2021 Doubleback Merlot (OB, 96) which is the finest Merlot I have tasted from this property. Heady and deep, with serious concentration, this beauty will go on for decades to come. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.doubleback.com/ and here are my reviews of the gorgeous new 2023 spring release wines by Doubleback.

2021 Doubleback Merlot- It is such a pleasure to enjoy this outstanding Walla Walla Merlot by Doubleback that blends in 6% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in 2,000L Stockinger ovals and new and neutral French oak barrels prior to bottling. It is very sappy and rich on the mouth with a silky mouthfeel and glorious length. Seamless red and dark fruit flavors march on with tobacco leaf, tilled loamy soils and suggestions of chocolate cake. A total home-run from this 2021 vintage, this warm and generous Merlot is shockingly good to consume now — and will hold steadily for at least another fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2020 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- This is my first soiree into this wine since I tasted out of barrel with winemaker Josh McDaniels. The 2020 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a dense and highly-structured blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. It really needs a 1-2 hour decant to show its full range of flavors and aromatics. Violets with espresso bean aromas combine with shades of black tea and blackberry jam on the nose. The palate is very soft and refined with serious elegant and a weightless texture. Very clean throughout the drinking experience, with no smoke influence, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2020 Doubleback ‘Estate Reserve’ Red Wine- A very different blend than the 2018 bottling, the 2020 ‘Estate Reserve’ combines 87% Cabernet Sauvignon (rather than 75% in the ‘18), with 10% Petit Verdot (2% in the ’18) and the remainder Merlot that was sourced from the McQueen and Lefore vineyards. Stored for 22 months in 81% new French oak barrels, this shows of an extremely inky core with green bell pepper notes from the PV, alongside black licorice, dark chocolate shavings and huckleberry pie. The heady aromas bring you back to the glass for more indulgence. The palate comes off very weightless, and very clean with no rough edges. Sensational to savor now, with its powerful core of black and blue fruits, this hedonistic gem of a wine will cellar well for at least another fifteen years. Give this at least an hour in the decanter if savoring right now. Drink 2023-2040- 97

LAST YEARS RELEASES:

2020 Doubleback Chardonnay- Sourced from the McQueen, Flying B and Kenny Hill Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley, this was stored for eighteen months in a combination of new and used French oak prior to bottling in January 2022. This is a layered, nearly impossible to put down Chardonnay with no smoke influence and no rough edges. Once poured it shows off its brilliant, golden hue in the glass. Seamless on the mouth, this delivers lovely salted Macadamia nut tones alongside buttered brioche, banana and roasted pineapple, with underlying tension. As stated before, Josh McDaniels is making quite possibly the finest Chardonnay in Washington. Try to get your hands on this incredible, very Kongsgaard vs. Washington Chardonnay if you can. Only 91 cases produced. Drink 2022-2030- 95

2019 Bledsoe Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon- The really good 2019 Bledsoe Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon is very inky once in the glass. Aged for 22 months in 57% new French oak, this Cabernet Sauvignon has 15% Merlot blended in with a dash of Malbec and Cabernet Fanc. Shades of sandalwood and allspice surround a core of ripe dark fruits, chocolate and sagebrush accents on the nose. The palate is very herbal but comes off with plenty of mouthfeel and texture. Showing good verve and concentration, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2020 Doubleback Merlot- The 100% varietal 2019 Doubleback Merlot comes from the Figgins, McQueen, LeFore and Flying B vineyards. Stored in new and neural oak barrels for seventeen months before batting in January 2022, this offers Earl Grey tea, cocoa powder dusted black cherry and roasted dates on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting, as this effortlessly glides across the mid-palate. Rich red and dark fruits collide with copious minerals and suggestions of chocolate cake. With no smoke influence, this shows bright acidity and refined tannins that hold everything brilliantly in place. This is quite simply a masterpiece in a vintage that was hard for many. Already beautifully evolved, give this an hour of air prior to consuming and enjoy over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 95

2019 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon- The beautiful new 2019 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the McQueen, LaFore, Bob Healy and Figgins vineyards. Stored for 23 months in a combination of new and neural French oak barrels before batting in August 2021, this Cabernet Sauvignon has small portions of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Malbec blended in. Needing some air to be fully aroused, this delivers sagebrush, mocha and scorched earth notes with heady dark fruits that sing in unison on the nose. The beautiful range of aromas brings you back to the glass for more. Very refined on the mouth, this comes off more herbal than other vintages, but has plenty of dense dark fruits to gratify. Arabica bean notes and creme de cassis notes meld well with firm tannins and good freshness that hold things in place. Finishing long, this is very refined and nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon that will surely hold well for another fifteen plus years. Give this at least an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2022-2038- 95

2019 Doubleback ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Reserve’ Red Wine has a very large portion of Petit Verdot (25%) added to 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Merlot. Stored in a combination of Italian concrete vessels and new French oak for 23 months, this limited production red blend really needs an hour of air prior to enjoying. It comes off very dense and hedonistic with graphite, green bell pepper, anise, tobacco leaf and intense dark fruit flavors. The expression of Petit Verdot here is gorgeous. This shows really good weight and tension with beautiful length. Intense and very gratifying, this heady, red blend will hold well for another twenty years to come. Drink 2023-2040- 96

Nine Hats

Today we share one of the outstanding value producers in the Pacific Northwest. Nine Hats is the brainchild of the Long Shadows project, as all Nine Hats wines are crafted in Walla Walla by famed winemaker Gilles Nicault. The idea was to craft delicious and highly approachable wines that are value everyday wines. These wines come from some of the same acclaimed vineyards as the Long Shadows wines, but they are made to be easier to drink and more geared towards everyday consumption. They have been on innumerable restaurant lists as glass pours because they are wines that consistently offer fantastic QPR.

The new set of releases are the finest overall that I have tasted. I adored the new 2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Pinot Gris (OB, 91) which is ripe and shows beautiful texture at a mere 15 dollars retail. The best wine I tasted (and the best Nine Hats wine I have ever tasted) was the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah (OB, 93) which is really like a baby Sequel. The flavor range and viscosity here is truly outstanding. Learn more about these outstanding wines at ninehatswines.com and here are my reviews of the new Nine Hats wines.

2020 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- Very crisp and smooth, the 2020 Nine Hats Chardonnay offers buttered French bread and ripe pear notes on the nose with suggestions of green papaya on the nose. The palate is soft and enticing with a silky mouthfeel and good length. Enjoy this 100% varietal bottling now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Pinot Gris- A downright killer value coming from this warm vintage in the Columbia Valley, the 2021 Nine Hats Pinot Gris offers straightforward Japanese pear, white peach and juicy starfruit flavors that combine with a smooth texture once on the mouth. Finishing clean with minerals and ripe orchard fruits, this is a clear winner. Only 15 dollars retail. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Riesling- Another awesome wine in this new Nine Hats lineup, the 2021 Riesling shows wet stone and light petrol notes on the palate, with sweetened gooseberry tones. Medium-bodied and showing a fantastic sense of texture, this is really outstanding stuff for the price. The combination of mouthfeel and lip-smacking acidity really makes this tick. Drink 2023-2027- 91

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Sangiovese- Very soft and polished, the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Sangiovese offers ripe red fruit flavors with tobacco leaf, leather and milk chocolate undercurrents. Medium to full-bodied, and exceedingly well-balanced, this is an outstanding value that would pair magically with a range of roasted meats. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- Also very soft and refined, the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot was mostly stored from the Benches Vineyard, Aged 18 months in 70% neutral new oak barrels this revels in its silky texture once on the mouth. Mocha, black currants and cedar notes combine on the palate with a bright mineral backbone. This is seriously good for the price. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Malbec- The 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Malbec comes from the Wahluke Slope AVA, as this was stored for 18 months in 70% neutral oak barrels before bottling. It is very inky in the glass, displaying mocha, tar, dark currants and sweet pipe tobacco notes alongside a bright sense of tension. You will love this wine that exudes both class and value. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The outstanding 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah comes off as a ‘Baby Sequel’ with its outstanding range of aromas and flavors. Bacon fat and garrigue notes combine with tilled soils and copious dark fruits on the nose. The palate is rich and dense with plenty of underlying finesse. As is, the wine is exceedingly difficult to put down once opened with its dense figs, boysenberry and dark cherry notes alongside hints of dark chocolate. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 93

Veuve Clicquot 'La Grand Dame' Champagne

One of the oldest houses in Champagne, Veuve Clicquot dates all the way back to 1772. Located in Reims, the house matriarch, Madame Clicquot, is known for crafting the first vintage champagne in 1810 as well as creating the riddling process to clarify champagne years later. She also created the first Rose champagne — and we are all so glad that she did.

Veuve Cliquot created their top wine, the ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne in Madame Cliquot’s honor. Today, ‘La Grand Dame’ is one of the most famous of the tete de cuvees. I fondly recall epic vintages of this wine dating back to the 1990 which lives long in my memory. Only made in great vintages, the ‘La Grand Dame’ was last made in 2006 and in 2008. The new edition from 2012 might be better than those editions. It is a masterclass that really needs a bit of time in the decanter to fully be aroused, but you will see that its complexity, density and underlying verve make this a highly age-worthy effort that will live on for at least another fifteen years to come. Learn more at https://www.veuveclicquot.com/en-au/our-champagne/la-grande-dame-2012 and here is my review of the fabulous 2012 ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne.

2012 Veuve Clicquot ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne- Given 6G/L dosage, the sensational 2012 Veuve Clicquot ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne is nearly all Pinot Noir (90%) with the remainder Chardonnay. This iconic wine is showing a bit better than the last edition of this wine (2008). Benefiting from a 20 minute decant, the 2012 ‘La Grand Dame’ displays a dizzying array of ripe orchard fruits, lemon oil, cardamom dusted brioche and shades of fresh ginger on the palate. A stunning wine now, brimming with serious poise and weight, this should live on for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 96

Kevin White

It was a bustling winter afternoon in Woodinville. I opened the door to Kevin White Winery and a lively holiday crowd had gathered for their winter wine club party. My friend, Tan Vinh, and I thoroughly enjoyed tasting through the new releases — and savored some of their really good library wines from the 2015 vintage. Kevin White Winery was founded twelve years ago back in 2010. Inspired by the wines of the Rhone Valley, Kevin sought to learn more and more about wine, taking classes in chemistry, microbiology and enology. Kevin started making his wines at nearby Baer before opening his tasting room in the warehouse district of Woodinville.

Taking with Kevin, he was very bullish on his wines from the 2019 and 2020 vintages — years that were relatively hard for winemakers to navigate due to the freeze of 2019 and smoke conditions of 2020. I have little doubt that Kevin has commanded these conditions really well. His wines show good finesse and a seamless quality from beginning to end. I love the new 2021 Kevin White ‘Memoire’ White Wine (OB, 92) which shows great underlying finesse with plenty of richness. Even better is the sensational 2020 Kevin White ‘Pionnier’ Grenache (OB, 94) which has outstanding range and deftly depicts the sheer beauty of Boushey Vineyard Grenache. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.kevinwhitewinery.com Here are the great new wines by Kevin White.

2021 Kevin White ‘Memoire’ White Wine- A southern Rhone-inspired blend of Roussanne (85%) and Grenache Blanc (15%) from the Boushey and Olsen Vineyards, this is fresh and marvelously textured, with a serious underlying stony minerality. Ripe cantaloupe and Japanese pear flavors collide with lighter flinty and citrus rind undertones. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2020 Kevin White ‘Pionnier Boushey Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Pioneer’ blends 85% Grenache with 15% Mourvedre which was all sourced from the Boushey Vineyard. Translucent in the glass, this offers really good range on the nose. Smoked meats collide with white pepper dusted red fruits, kumquat zest and suggestions of Earl Grey tea. The palate is rich and concentrated, drinking very seamless and plump on the mouth. Very pure in its red fruit character, this is absolutely delicious wine to consume now and over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 94

2019 Kevin White ‘Les Terrasses Weathereye Vineyard’ Grenache- Extremely translucent and very Pinotesque once in the glass, the 2019 ‘Les Terrasses’ Grenche comes from the high elevation northern slopes on Red Mountain which is managed by Ryan Johnson. Flinty and fresh once on the mouth, this delivers a gorgeous range of red fruit flavors, with yarrow, sagebrush and white pepper dusted bacon flavors on the palate. Generous and showing good verve, enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2020 Kevin White ‘La Fraternite’ Red Wine- Entirely coming from the Yakima Valley, the 2020 ‘La Fraternite’ blends mostly Grenache (62%) with smaller parts Mourvèdre and Syrah. Garrigue notes collide with red raspberry coulis, black peppercorns and suggestions of roasted lamb. The palate is soft and very plush, showing no rough edges. Forward and juicy in its red fruit profile, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Kevin White ‘La Paysanne’ Mourvedre- The 2020 ‘La Paysanne’ is a 100% Mourvèdre bottling from the Boushey, Olsen, and Sugarloaf Vineyards. Smoked brisket and green peppercorns mingle well with Moroccan spices and suggestions of black tea on the nose. The palate is ripe and juicy with a wonderful purity of red and dark fruits. Very seamless and elegant, enjoy this very Washington vs. Beaucastel wine now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2019 Kevin White ‘L’Odyssee’ Red WIne- The 2019 ‘L’Odyssee’ Red Wine is a Right Bank-inspired wine that combines Red Willow and Boushey Vineyard Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Very linear and balanced on the palate, this displays baking spice dusted red fruits with tobacco leaf, blackberry cobbler and coffee ground accents. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Kevin White ‘Heritage DuBrul Vineyard’ Red Wine- Roughly 57% Merlot with the reminder Cabernet Sauvignon from the famed DuBrul Vineyard, the 2019 ‘Heritage’ offers beautiful aromatic range once in the glass. Red raspberry and freshly tilled soils combine with dried herbs, and stony undertones on the nose. The palate is plush and nicely concentrated with good underlying verve. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this is seriously good stuff to consume now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Long Shadows 'Julia's Dazzle' Rose

It might only be February but Rose season lies right in front of us. One of the most consistently great Rose wines out of Washington, ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ is made by Long Shadows. Year after year this wine has impressed since its inception and it is my pleasure to be the first wine critic to review this beautiful wine sourced from the Columbia Valley. This fall during harvest I had a chance to visit famed Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault and taste with him at his Walla Walla winery. As we tasted through the new release, he mentioned how he felt that 2022 would bring a great Rose.

The 2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 93) is a wine that is already singing but will become more and more complex as it ages. It seriously polished effort that is best consumed at a slightly warmer temperature. At around twenty dollars, the 2022 ‘Dazzle' is a steal in the Pacific Northwest Rose market. Learn more about these incredible wines at longshadows.com and here is my review of the 2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose.

2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose-  This is a downright stunning wine which was created entirely from Pinot Gris gapes, the 2022 ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ is a gorgeous Rose bottling that is already singing in February 2023 and checks in with just a dash of .3G/L residual sugar. While outstanding in 2021, the 2022 ‘Dazzle’ is a notch better in terms of mouthfeel, bright acidity and sinfully good flavor range. Don’t serve too cold to endure the complete range of flavors, combining Satsuma orange zest, guava puree, red rose water, juicy strawberry and shades of baking spice dusted French bread. This is impeccably balanced in terms of weight and bright minerality. Highly nuanced, enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2029- 93

2020 Bordeaux Report

As we all gathered outside the door we eagerly awaited our entrance into what would be one of the great tastings of the year for Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux. I was very excited to taste some of the greats from the 2020 vintage in Bordeaux — a year that has been already hailed by many critics as being consistent and concentrated. 2020 was a warm year that had early flowering and very warm conditions from mid-June to mid-August. Heavy thunderstorms then hit the left bank, with the right bank less affected. 2020 is warm like 2018 but had more moderate conditions overall. Due to the heat, harvest was early, producing generally low yields.

Tasting the wines you can really feel the power on the Right Bank. These are deep, concentrated wines that will age gloriously. I loved the 2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur (OB, 95) which quite literally screams terroir and the broad-shouldered 2020 Chateau La Cabanne (OB, 95) which will cellar beautifully for decades. Overall quality on the Right Bank is clearly very high.

But there were also clearly world-class wines made on the Left Bank. The finest wine I tasted was the 2020 Chateau Pichon-Lalande (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and is silky and generous with no rough edges. This beauty will cellar for many decades to come. Nearly as good was the scintillating 2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre (OB, 96) which has gobs of stuffing and the very elegant 2020 Chateau Lynch-Bages (OB, 96) which shows lovely terroir and earthy tones. Don’t sleep on the incredible value 2020 Chateau Gisgours (OB, 95) which is also quite powerful and shows velvety tannins right now. Both rouge and blanc wines by Chateau Pape Clement (OB, 96, OB, 96) offer outstanding value and aging potential. After this landmark tasting it is quite clear that buyers of the 2020 Bordeau vintage have a lot to look forward to.

2020 Chateau La Counsapaude- The outstanding 2020 Chateau La Counsapaude offers rich anise and black currant flavors alongside silky tannins and a smooth mouthfeel. Finishing long with copious meirnals, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2020 Chateau La Gaffeliere A really great wine for 2020, the Chateau La Gaffeliere is a smooth blend of 60% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. The house has been owned by the Malet Roquefort family for over three centuries and located in the "golden triangle," between the hills of Chateaux Pavie and Ausone. Right away on the palate you taste the dense dark currant tones alongside dried herbs and coffee grounds. Medium to full-bodied, savor this now and ver the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 94

2020 Chateau Villamaurine- A gorgeous blend of 80% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc, this spent roughly16 months in French oak before bottling. On the nose this takes on smoky aromas alongside graphite and dense dark fruits with hints of dark hocolate. This shows some really nice aging potential. Drink 2024-2042- 94

2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur- The gorgeous 2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur comes from the home of famed enologist Michel Rolland. Showing off its deep color in the glass, this evolves with heady dark currants, Black Forest cake and mocha with wet gravel notes on the nose. The palate is rich and layered with suggestions of creme de violette and stony accents. The viscosity here is sinfully good, as this beauty will evolve for decades to come Drink 2024-2045- 95

2020 Chateau La Cabanne- Comprised of (96%) and Cabernet Franc (4%), this shows a silky texture with good richness and fantastic underlying finesse. Pencil lead, anise and among undertones along side rich dark and blue fruits. A complete wine, this will be best consumed in several years. Drink 2024-2043- 95

2020 Chateau Gazin- The 2020 Chateau Gazin shows loads of potential and is coming off a bit backwards now. Medium to full bodied dark fruits combine with espresso grounds and wet gravel notes on the palate. Finishing long with great finesse, enjoy in several years. Drink 2025-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Clarke- The 2020 Chateau Clarke comes from the Listrac-Médoc, in the Northern Médoc region. This performs well with good freshness and displays medium bodied dark cherry, and date fruit flavors alongside coffee grounds and cloves. Give this another year in the bottle. Drink 2024-2040-92

2020 Chateau Coufran- Really good in 2020, Chateau Coufran combines Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). Right away very appealing this offers medium to full-bodied tar, tobacco leaf, anise and fresh blackberries on the palate. Already nicely evolved, try to hold on this beauty for at least another year Drink 2024-2038- 93

2020 Chateau Augludet- In this 2020 vintage they have chosen to add more Petite Verdot. It comes off very fresh and somewhat angular with lighter to medium bodied dark fruits w tobacco leaf alongside gritty tannins. Drink 2023-2033- 91

2020 Chateau La Tour Carnet- The 2020 La Tour Carnet combines Merlot (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%). Right away this shows a deep hue with mocha and allspice tones alongside shades of pencil lead and damp earth. Medium bodied and well balanced, enjoy now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Gisgours- A sensational effort in 2020, the Chateau Gisgours combines Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) and Merlot (44%). This comes off ultra velvety with refined tannins. Very pure dark fruits march on with espresso grounds and shades of damp earth. This is silky, elegant and highly-concentrated wine that has a long way to go in the cellar. Give this several years before consuming. Drink 2025-2045- 95

2020 Chateau Lascombes- I had a marvelous visit to this house back in 2019. The 2020 Lascombes combines Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (40%) and a touch of Petit Verdot (5%).  Right away this comes off very refined on the palate, displaying copious minerals with deep black fruits, dark chocolate and pipe tobacco flavors. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy over the next two decades. Try to resist for another couple of years. Drink 2025-2043- 94

2020 Chateau Beaumont- Outstanding and very savory the great value 2020 Chateau Beaumont shows garrigue notes alongside velvety tannins with rich figs and anise tones on the palate. Finishing long with black fruits and copious minerals, this is best consumed in a year or so — and will bring pleasure for another fifteen years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2020 Chateau Beychevelle- There is a lot to love with the new 2020 Beychevelle which is a marvelous blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the remainder Petit Verdot. On the palate medium to full-bodied flavors of mocha, tar, anise and creme de violette all enter the fray. Very concentrated and refined, enjoy over the next twenty five years to come. Just try to resist this beauty for a few more years. Drink 2025-2050- 95

2020 Chateau Gruaud Larose- The 2020 Chateau Gruaud Larose is an outstanding wine that is showing serious aging potential. The blend combines Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), smaller portions Cabernet Franc (4%), and Merlot (17%). Right away the heady aromas of mocha and tar notes combine with suggestions of leather and Turkish coffee all meld on the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with refined tannins and a great feeling of verve. Enjoy in several years. Drink 2025-2045- 94

2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre- Really good even in its youth, the hedonistic 2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre is a stunning wine from this vintage.Coming from this 60 hectare site set on Mindel gravel upon clayey-sandy subsoils, this comes off super refined with its tannic structure. Full-bodied coffee grounds, dark chocolate fudge and roasted date flavors meld with formidable viscosity and finesse. Try to resist this stunning wine for at least another three years. Drink 2026-2055- 96

2020 Chateau Talbot- The most Cabernet Sauvignon ever blended, this combines Cabernet Sauvignon (76%), Merlot (21%) and Petit Verdot (3%). Medium to full bodied mocha, anise and espresso grounds combine with soft tannins on the palate. Showing great length and persistence, hold off on this beauty for a few more years. Drink 2025-2045- 94

2020 Chateau Lynch Bages- A stunner from 2020, the Chateau Lynch Bages reminds me of the scintillating 2016 bottling. Showing off a very deep core in the glass, this combines with black currant cordial flavors with Arabica bean and creme de violette tones on the palate. This shows so much potential and ultra-refined tannins that make this quite literally a joy to drink even at this stage. Just try to resist this beauty for a few more years if you can. Drink 2025-3055- 96

2020 Chateau Phelan Segur- The 2020 Chateau Phelan Segur is one of the great wines of this house that I have tasted, up there with the outstanding 2005 and 2010 bottlings. This comes off very powerful and silky with refined tannins, with glorious length. A dense core of dark fruits greet you on the palate, with shades of dark licorice and coffee grounds. This will have the stuffing and finesse to cellar well for another two decades. Just hold off for a few more years. Drink 2025-2044- 94

2020 Chateau de Pez- The 2020 Chateau de Pez exudes class with its deep core in the glass. Ripe dark currants melange with dark chocolate and mocha tones with kirsch cordial on the palate. This is rich and layered stuff that will drink well for decades to come. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Pichon Lalande- The finest wine of the tasting, the 2020 Chateau Pichon Lalande is a landmark wine from this vintage. A world-class blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot with the remainder  6% Cabernet Franc, this is ultra-rich and polished once on the mouth with a seamless texture. The Bordeaux effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience, finishing very long with its polished tannins, black fruits and gorgeous finesse. Enjoy this dense, heady and wine that flirts with perfection over the next thirty years. Drink 2025-2055- 99

2020 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc- The 2020 Pape Clement Blanc is another stunning wine from this famed house for Bordeux Blanc. Complex and deep, with serious viscosity, this displays cardamom dusted melon, clementine white peach. This is power with gobs of finesse, as this dense beauty will go for decades to come Drink 2023-2043- 96

2020 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge- I adore the 2020 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge which is extremely powerful yet dazzles with its underlying tension. A blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, on the palate this classy wine reveals heady pencil lead ,kirsch cordial and espresso grounds that combine with the seamless texture. Very deep and concentrated, enjoys this beauty in a year or so. Drink 2024-2050- 96

2020 Chateau De Chevalier Blanc- This comes off refined and elegant with good concentration on the palate, showing bergamot, white peach, juicy gooseberry and suggestions of baking spice dusted brioche flavors. Rich and viscous, with fantastic verve, this is already nicely evolved and will cellar well for another two decades. Drink 2023-2042-95

2020 Chateau De Chevalier Rouge- Just as good as the 2020 ‘Blanc’ the 2020 Chateau Chevalier Rouge is very concentrated and heady wine that is drinking marvelously even now at the three year mark. A gorgeous blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc, this offers wonderful underlying tension alongside medium to full-bodied dark currant, tobacco leaf, freshly tilled soil and stony accents on the palate. Delightful even now, enjoy over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2023-2043- 95

Eternal Wines

Sitting across from winemaker Brad Binko last summer, we talked about everything from music to vintage port. A graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program,  Binko formerly ran restaurant wine programs in Charleston before making the move to Walla Walla. The wines that he makes get better and better.

In the past he has produced a very wide range of wines, including a top notch Port-style wine and a great range of whites, including a very fresh and fragrant Rose. He is located in the Walla Walla Airport district and is known for putting on killer wine parties and concerts, especially in the summer.

I really enjoyed his new wines. Don’t miss out on the 2021 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Perspective’ Grenache Blanc (OB, 91) which is very fresh and nicely textured, with good flavor range. The best wine I tasted was the 2019 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Bliss’ Fortified Syrah (OB, 93) which is amongst the finest wines of its kind that you will taste in the state. As I am typing this I quite literally can’t wait to go back to this wine tonight with a chocolate dessert. The wine shows insanely good flavor range that you will need to taste for yourself. Learn more about these wines at https://eternalwine.com Here are the great new releases by Eternal Wine and Drink Washington State.

2016 Drink Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon- The excellent 2016 Drink Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon is very soft and approachable Cabernet Sauvignon now with layers of black tea, blackberry compote, coffee grounds and good structure. Enjoy now and over the next several years to come. Drink 2023-20228- 91

2021 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Perspective’ Grenache Blanc- The 2021 ‘Eternal Perspective’ comes from the Painted Hills Vineyard in the Yakima Valley AVA. This is ripe and beautifully textured Grenache Blanc with sweetened gooseberry, cantaloupe, wet stone and citrus blossom water notes on the palate. Texturally gratifying, with good acidity, this really needs a warm summer day. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Insight’ Marsanne- Coming from the famed Boushey Vineyard, this Eternal Wines offering by Brad Binko offers a fresher take on the varietal. Copious minerals greet you with green papaya, unripe mango, green apple and suggestions of blue slate. Enjoy in its vibrant youth while this great sense of tension remains intact. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2017 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Discovery’ Cabernet Sauvignon- As the name might suggest, this is sourced from the Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Light garrigue notes combine with fresh black raspberry, black cherry pie and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Already nicely evolved, savor this now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2019 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Bliss’ Fortified Syrah- Sitting with winemaker Brad Binko last summer we both talked about our love for Port wines. This is a Port-inspired bottling that is Syrah-based and had an added neutral spirit. Everything is in balance here, with bright acidity, alcohol and flat out delicious fruit and non-fruit flavors. Without a doubt the best wine in the Eternal Wines new lineup, this is a downright killer new bottling with insane flavor range — espresso grounds, mocha, tar, worn leather, sweetened menthol — that all marvelously combine together in the glass. Don’t take my word for it, you have to try this beauty for yourself! Drink 2023-2033- 93

Structure Cellars

Today we introduce some of the finest people you will find in the Washington Wine Industry. For years I have enjoyed tasting at their SoDo location as  Structure Cellars focuses their program on high quality red wine that exudes value. Head winemaker and co-owner Brian Grasso is a former sommelier that trained under Washington wine legend Chris Sparkman of Sparkman Cellars before starting his own winery. Brian is a really easy-going, down to earth guy. He’s passionate and dedicated to making high quality, good value wines. He and his wife Brandee also own an adjacent, very cool sparkling wine bar called Love Beats Pagne (https://www.lovebeatspagne.com) that my wife is particularly fond of.

When you enter Structure Cellars you will no doubt see Brian’s head beating back and forth as he personally tastes people on his lineup.  2020 was not an easy vintage to navigate but he did a really good job with the wines, despite the conditions late in the year. I adored his 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which has gorgeous underlying tension and a salty presence. This is a really cool wine that should be enjoyed now and over the next eight or so years. Learn more about these excellent wines at structurewines.com and here are the great new wines by Structure Cellars.

2021 Structure Cellars ‘Frenchman Hills Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This outstanding Chardonnay displays a ripe texture with beautiful and opulent Japanese pear, ripe peach and pineapple flavors that combine with silty soils on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this delicious bottling now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2021 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Roussanne- The 2021 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Roussanne comes from this outstanding site in the Yakima Valley. Very fresh and soft on the mouth, this delivers Macadamia nut tones on the palate, with wild mushroom, cantaloupe and shades of cardamom, with considerable underlying tension. Enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The beautiful 2020 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is a great showing from this challenging vintage. Fragrant on the nose with potpourri, this displays ripe red fruit flavors that combine with cigar ash and shades of black licorice. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Franc- Very herbal and bright, with gobs of mouth-watering acidity, the very linear 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Franc offers tar and red currant flavors alongside red floral water on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Brothers’ Merlot- Soft and approachable now, the 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Brothers’ Merlot displays ripe red cherry flavors with tobacco leaf, white pepper and shades of milk chocolate. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah- Savory and tasty right now, the 2020 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah shows bacon fat, tar and anise tones with lighter dark currant notes on the palate. Medium-bodied with good finesse, enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this scenic site set on the Columbia River, the 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers ripe red currants, rose water and tobacco flavors on the palate with plenty of finesse and dark chocolate shaving and salty undertones. Showing some bright acidity, this nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this cooler site in the Royal Slope AVA, the Cabernet Sauvignon shows off wild blackberry, black currant jelly and shades of asphalt on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture and light texture. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows tar, method and tobacco leaf on the palate with copious minerals. Medium-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

Sequitur

One of the world-class producers out of Oregon, Sequitur was founded by Mike Etzel and Carey Critchlow. For years Mike Etzel had sights on developing a property which is adjacent to his famed ‘Upper Terrace Vineyard’ and between 2012 and 2014 Mike and Carey planted the 12-acre Sequitur vineyard . Various clonal selections (Wädenswil, Coury, Swan, Calera, Eyrie, Mt. Eden, Rochioli, and Martin Ray) here are tightly spaced, as this biodynamically farmed vineyard is a truly unique site with large Fir trees that line the property. 

The current production is 700 cases of Pinot Noir and 75 cases of Chardonnay, plus or minus a few depending on the vintage. They produce a small amount of “Amphora” Pinot Noir which is fermented and aged in an Italian clay amphora. They’ve made White Pinot Noir in 2020 and also now in 2022.

The new wines by them were extraordinarily good. I was blown away with what they accomplished in 2020 as the 2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir (OB, 94) is one of the finest wines I have tasted from this challenging vintage. With serious range and texture, this beauty is absolutely singing now. Even better is the 2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge Woodstock’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is a fitting tribute to the 50th anniversary of this famed festival. Dense and showing incredible verve and mouthfeel, this very pretty wine will live on for decades.

Learn more about these special, limited production wines at https://www.sequiturwine.com Here is the glorious new release wines by Sequitur. 

2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir- Coming from this highly challenging vintage in the Willamette Valley, the absolutely gorgeous 2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir offers a very rich nose with salted Macadamia nut, nectarine, gooseberry and cantaloupe notes. The palate is very seamless and downright ethereal with really nice weight. Kiwi, Yakima cherry and honeydew melon flavors mingle well with copious minerals on the palate. This is super-refined, weightless stuff that is up there with the finest White Pinot Noirs that are made in North America. No reason to cellar this beauty! Drink 2023-2029- 94

2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge Woodstock’ Pinot Noir- The downright stunning 2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge’ Pinot Noir is a tribute wine to the 50th anniversary of the iconic music festival. This is a nod to the rains during the festival and also at harvest (albeit considerably cooler during the Oregon harvest!). Considering the rains at harvest, this is rich and concentrated, with a deep core. Very rich and concentrated, showing linzer torte, cran-pomegranate, wild blackberries and copious minerals, this is a stunning, very pure Pinot Noir from this slightly cooler vintage. Showing great length and loads of mouth-watering acidity, I can see this cellaring well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

Canvasback

For years I have loved the Canvasback wines by winemaker Brian Rudin. Founded back in 2011, Duckhorn pioneers Dan and Margaret Duckhorn saw the great potential for adding Washington Cabernet Sauvignon from Red Mountain to their portfolio of wines. Today Canvasback makes a range of wines and utilizes the vineyard management talents of Dick Boushey to source from some of the state’s great sites including Klipsun, The Funk Estate, La Coye, Shaw and Quintessence Vineyards. Canvasback crafts their ‘Grand Passage’ Cabernet Sauvignon, entirely sourced from Red Mountain and also has a relatively new estate vineyard, the Longwinds Vineyard, on Red Mountain right above Col Solare. The Longwinds Vineyard was planted in 2013 and has 13.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and 4.5 acres of Merlot, with the Cabernet grown in the rockier, exposed soils at the top of the vineyard, and the Merlot grown near the bottom, where the soils have higher water-holding capacity. 

Winemaker Brian Rudin is originally from Eastern Washington and worked at L’Ecole No. 41 before serving as head winemaker for four years at Cadaretta and Buried Cane.  I really enjoyed the new wines that he has made. Coming from this somewhat challenging vintage, the 2019 Canvasback ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) is very concentrated and dense, showing the wonderful deep earthy tones that you expect from Red Mountain. Learn more about these great new wines at https://www.canvasbackwine.com Here are the beautiful new Cabernet Sauvignon releases by Canvasback. 

2020 Greenwing ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Greenwing bottling is their entry level wine that comes from a range of appellations including Red Mountain and the Walla Walla Valley. Right away this delivers ripe figs with sweetened blackberry and black currant flavors, with dusty earth. Enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2022-2028- 90

2019 Canvasback ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding value by winemaker Brian Rudin. Sourced from great sites including Klipsun and Quintessence Vineyards, this offers tar and tobacco leaf flavors alongside intense boysenberry cordial and mocha tones. This is truly delicious and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon that offers some really great value. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

Betz 'Clos de Betz' Vertical Tasting

One of the famed wines of Washington State, the ‘Clos de Betz’ honors Bob and Cathy Betz’s winery origins, dating back to 1973. It was in that year that Bob and Cathy visited one of the famed vineyards of Burgundy, the Clos de Beze and they vowed to one day produce a wine that pays homage to this famed location, creating a wine with great terroir and expression.

Bob Betz created the Clos de Betz back with the 1997 vintage and the rest has been history as this has been one of the most well-known expressions of Washington Merlot since its inception. It was an honor last Friday to taste every vintage (other than 1998) of the Clos de Betz red wine with Betz head winemaker Louis Skinner. Over several hours we moved through more than 20 wines as we shared our thoughts on each vintage.

One thing that stuck me, and did not surprise me, was the overall quality in the wines. There were no duds in this tasting, as all wines showed marvelously even at more than twenty years of age. Sure, a few might have shined brighter than others, but even the wines made in challenging vintages were beautiful. For my palate the two vintages that did not show quite as well were the cooler years, 2010 and 2011. I would not sit on those wines any longer.

We were all floored how the older wines showed and I was mesmerized by the 1997 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 91) which is still alive and kicking. The mid-palate depth began to slowly dissipate after an hour but my initial approach to this wine was just incredible. This wine is proof that Washington Merlot can age gracefully. Even better was the 1999 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 94) which is loaded with finesse from this cooler vintage. I love where this wine is at right now, just pillowy soft and inviting. Just as good was the 2018 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 94) which is no doubt the most powerful of the lineup and shows some very serious cellaring potential. I adored the 2014 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 94) which is still quite primary but is very slowly making its move into secondary notes. What a beauty! Essentially all of the wines from 2000-2009 were outstanding and remarkably consistent. These were a run of downright great vintages and the wines also appeared as very true to the vintages. In short, this was an extraordinary tasting that proves that great Washington Merlot can age. Here are my tasting notes from this glorious ‘Clos de Betz’ vertical tasting with Betz Family Winery.

2019 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Very dark in the glass, the 2019 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a silky blend of 51% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 28% Petit Verdot that is already nicely evolved. Once on the nose this takes on tar, dried herbs and coffee ground notes with copious dark fruits. The palate shows good richness considering the coolness of the vintage. Dense dark fruits combine with good structure on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2018 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2018 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a really outstanding bottling that is one of the greats of this tasting. Rich and voluptuous on the mouth, this shows a seamless texture that produces a weightless effect. Layers of roasted figs, mocha, scorched earth and heady blackberry notes all combine on the palate. Refined tannins and bright acidity frame this beautiful wine that is drinking beautifully now at the five year mark. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2017 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Clos de Betz’ is a fantastic showing from this slightly cooler vintage. This is an ultra-fresh wine, showing fragrant black rose tones on the nose with boysenberry and Arabica mean notes. The palate is deep and concentrated, loaded with ripe dark fruit flavors. This is a treat to enjoy now, as it will easily go for another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2016 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- A dense and layered Merlot red wine to enjoy now, the 2016 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is drinking marvelously already at the seven year mark. Loaded with roasted figs, black currants, tar and Turkish coffee flavors, this is a dense and chewy effort that is highly enjoyable to taste — and will cellar for at least another decade to come. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2015 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2015 ‘Clos de Betz’ is a delightful wine from this warm vintage that saw Merlot harvested in August. This has really come around on the mid-palate since last tasted. Layers of milk chocolate combine with black currants, espresso grounds and shades of black licorice. This is really good wine considering the heat of the vintage. No reason to cellar so enjoy now! Drink 2023-2029- 92

2014 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Clos de Betz’ combines some top vineyards including DuBrul Vineyard Merlot, Red Willow Vineyard Merlot as well as a good portion of Olsen Vineyard Petit Verdot. In the glass this shows a very dense core. Very plush and soft on the mouth, this shows a refined texture and wonderful sense of structure. Elegant tannins combine with mocha, tar, black currants and blackberry compote on the palate. This is elegant, refined Merlot that is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2013 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- This 2013 vintage has as high percentage of Olsen Vineyard Petit Verdot blended in. Mocha, tar and roasted dates all mark the nose. The palate shows good flavor density with refined tannins and great texture on the mouth. Layers of milk chocolate covered black cherry and cigar box tones combine with coffee grounds on the palate. Very structured and dense, this will age gracefully for another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2012 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2012 ‘Clos de Betz’ is marvelous wine from this very classic vintage. This has evolved to be exceedingly youthful and fragrant on the nose. Black rose water and dark chocolate flavors combine with light tannins on the palate.  Less on the fleshy side for this wine and more on the structured and nuanced side, this still has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2011 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2011 ‘Clos de Betz’ comes off lean and herbal, with angular tannins. This seems to be past its peak. Drink 2023-2025- 89

2010 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2010 ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a touch lean from this vintage. Lighter blackberry and black cherry notes mingle with good underlying finesse. Drink now. Drink 2023-2025- 90

2009 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The heady 2009 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a fantastic showing now at fourteen year mark. For my palate this wine shows considerably better than the ’10 or ’11. Dark chocolate shavings, tar and tobacco leaf flavors combine with silty soils on the palate. The level of nuance and rich mouthfeel really satisfies and serves as a reminder how good this vintage was. Very fresh even now, this is drinking beautifully at this juncture — and has a long way to go. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2008 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine-  The 2008 Clos de Betz is a stunning showing which is wonderfully fresh with gobs of bright acidity. Layers of boysenberry and black currants combine with smoky minerals with sandalwood notes on the palate. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this displays the very pure quality of Merlot. The 2008 is clearly a great wine from a great vintage. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2007 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2007 evokes some beautiful high tones on the nose wth violets, black currants and wet gravel. The palate is remarkably fresh with good purity of black fruits. Still wonderfully fresh, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2006 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Really delicious to consume now, the 2006 Clos de Betz offers milk chocolate tones alongside dried herbs and blackberry notes. The palate has good freshness and shows a beautiful purity of fruit, with good flavor density. No reason to sit on this beauty. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2005 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2005 ‘Clos de Betz’ is deeply colored in the glass. It is rich and voluptuous on the mouth, loaded with rich flavors. Mocha, creosote, garrigue and roasted dates combine with boysenberry flavors. This is a stunning, decadent showing that is drinking beautifully right now. Enjoy over the next decade. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2004 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The gorgeous 2004 ‘Clos de Betz’ is very fresh on the nose with dense dark fruits and pencil lead notes. The palate shows good structure and carries mocha, ripe figs and copious minerals. Drink now. Drink 2023-2027- 92

2003 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Nearly as good as the 2001, the more flamboyant and hedonistic 2003 is an outstanding showing from this warmer vintage. Macerated cherry, ripe date and blackberry flavors with toasty oak all combine on the palate. This is dense and delicious, highly reductive wine that won’t get any better. Drink 2023-2027- 92

2002 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2002 Clos de Betz is deep and refined wine that comes from this stunning vintage in the Columbia Valley. Littered with dense dark fruits (figs, black currants, blackberries) with freshly tilled salty soils and lovely underlying acidity greet you on the palate. Finishing long with black currants and minerals, this is truly delicious wine that is literally singing now at the twenty plus year mark. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2001 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Coming from a slightly warmer year, the 2001 Clos de Betz is highly perfumed with its red rose petals once on the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with gobs of finesse and beautiful pomegranate and Bing cherry fruits. With more air the light wild mushroom notes combine with the beautiful underlying freshness and salinity. This is really refined 2001 that still has a ways to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2000 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2000 Clos de Betz also displays a deep core just like the ’99. Green bell pepper aromas with black tea, boysenberry and cocoa powder with a light medicinal edge all meld in the glass. The palate is very soft and seamless with great underlying acidity and a light dusting of salinity. This is seriously good stuff to enjoy now and is one of the better wines I have tasted recently from the somewhat challenging 2000 vintage. Drink 2023-2030- 93

1999 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- This 1999 Clos De Betz comes from the very classic, cooler vintage. It is showing unbelievably well right now. Immediately gratifying grapheme much and wild blackberry and garrrigue notes hit the nose with red bell pepper all impress. The palate has great density and finesse. This is one of the great wines I have tasted from this vintage — a total home run! Drink 2023-2030- 94

1997 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- 1997 marked the first vintage of this wine. This Merlot dominant blend displays beautiful medicinal notes on the nose, with dried sage, white pepper, bergamot and ripe red cherry tones on the nose. The palate is still fresh and well-balanced with lighter to medium-bodied red fruit flavors, with nice underlying finesse and light tannins producing structure. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 91

Champagne Billecart-Salmon

For years I have admired the glorious range of wines by famed producer Billecart-Salmon. Small in production but large in quality, Billecart-Salmon controls an estate of 100 hectares, obtaining grapes from an area totalling 300 hectares across 40 crus of the Champagne region. The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around Epernay, where the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay co-exist, in the vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs.

This house now spans a whopping seven generations, the house was formed with the marriage of 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon in 1818. This remains a family winery since the beginning with Louis Salmon, brother of Elisabeth and a passionate oenologist, getting involved in the creation of the wines.

In 1964 their tete de cuvee, ‘Cuvee Nicolas Francois’ was crafted to serve as an homage to their founder. The house has received considerable critical acclaim over the years, not only for their top wines, including the Clos Saint-Hilaire cuvée, first created with the 1995 vintage, but their Rose and vintage champagnes in particular. On the west coast of the United States, their Rose champagne is particularly one of the most popular champagnes that you will find in bars and restaurants.

Last year I had the honor of being hosted by seventh generation CEO Mr Mathieu Roland-Billecart, who assumed his position back in January 2019 from his cousin François Roland-Billecart, who headed the House since 1992. Mathieu is a larger than life personality with incredible knowledge and passion for his house and champagne. Lets just say that he doesn’t drink other houses champagnes!

I recently had the chance to try the beautiful new wines by Billecart-Salmon adored these wines that are quite honestly one of the finest overall lineups you will find in this region. The famed NV Billecart-Salmon Rose Champagne (OB, 92) is fresh, finesse-driven and very pretty. This is one that is complex but also super crushable. I was blown away with the new 2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Louis Salmon’ Champagne (OB, 97) which is one of the great Blanc de Blancs Champagnes that I have tasted over the past year. The richness, tension and nerve of this wine is just extraordinary. It’ll live on for another twenty years. Learn more about this incredible champagne house at https://www.champagne-billecart.fr Here are the beautiful new Champagnes by Billecart-Salmon.

NV Billecart Salmon ‘Grand Cru’ Blanc de Blancs- Created with a base of 2015 vintage Chardonnay sourced from Cotes de Blancs set on deep, chalky soils. The nose is particularly rich with lemon oil dusted Challah bread, cardamom and suggestions of Marcona almond. The palate is deep and concentrated with gorgeous orange rind and honeydew melon flavors alongside shades of salted pralines. Gorgeous to consume now, this has some brilliant aging potential. Drink 2023-2033- 94

NV Billecart Salmon Brut Nature- The NV Billecart Salmon Brut Nature is made from 40% Pinot Meunier sourced from the Marne with 30% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir with the base being from the 2016 vintage. A whiff of green apple and salted cashew greet you alongside hints of biscotti. The silky mousse greets you as with lovely weight and beautiful finesse, finishing long. Drink 2023-2028- 93

NV Billecart Salmon Brut Rose- The NV Billecart Salmon Brut Rose is a beautiful wine with a base from the 2017 vintage. This wine was first produced in the 1970s and gained acclaim in the 1990s. Blended with a larger portion of Chardonnay (40%) with equal parts Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, this displays pretty guava and strawberry flavors alongside salty and wet stone undertones on the palate. Finishing long, this outstanding Rose will continue to produce drinking enjoyment over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2029- 92

NV Billecart Salmon Brut Sous Bois Champagne- Entirely vilified in small barrels, the Brut Sous Bois this is blended with 33% of each variety with a base of 2013 (66%) with a high proportion of premier and grand cru wines. Rich and unctuous on the palate, the wine delivers kumquat oil flavors alongside green papaya, and salted shortbread flavors with serious tension and a lengthy finish. This has some glorious aging potential. Drink 2023-2037- 94

2008 Billecart Salmon ‘Cuvee Elizabeth Salmon’ Rose Champagne- Released in April 2021, the gorgeous 2008 Billecart Salmon ‘Cuvee Elizabeth Salmon’ Rose Champagne blends 55% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay from nearly all grand cru vineyards. The nose is incredibly complex and shows mature hazelnut and damp earthy tones alongside bright red fruits alongside Mandarin orange rind and exotic spices. The sense of balance and finesse is extraordinary as this shows a glorious combination of weight and pose. It is irresistible to savor now but will surely have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2023-2040- 97

2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Louis Salmon’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne- The simply stunning 2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Louis Salmon’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne comes from this outstanding vintage and is sourced from 100% Chardonnay grands crus of Côte des Blancs  (mainly from Chouilly, Cramant, and Mesnil-sur-Oger). Aged on the lees for 11 years prior to being disgorged in October 2020, this was given 7G/L dosage. A golden hue in the glass, the nose is ultra-powerful with lemon and lime oil notes that combine with shades of white truffle, and pink grapefruit blossom. The palate is lithe and also very generous, with serious poise and a sterling expression of tension. Very nervy throughout the drinking experience, with stony and earthy undertones, this is complex and decidedly delicious Blanc de Blancs that has a long way to go in the cellar. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2023-2040- 96

MacRostie Vineyards

I fondly recall my first visit to MacRostie, hosted by fellow Whitman alum Steve MacRostie. For many years I have loved these wines, particularly the value that their entry level wines bring. MacRostie Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have quite frankly been a regional pillar in value and you can find these wines in supermarkets that span the entire United Sates. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has a illustrious history in the wine industry. After attaining her undergraduate degree from the University of Colorado at Boulder she worked in the laboratory of Jackson Family Wines before working at Clos du Bois, Oyster Bay as well as Sonoma-Cutrer. The new wines are all outstanding coming from the 2020 and 2019 vintages.

MacRostie sources from some great vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Sangiacomo, Martinelli and Bacigalupi, and from MacRostie’s Estate Wildcat Mountain Vineyard which was purchased decades back. I love the new 2020 MacRostie ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93)  which is deep and concentrated, coming off very clean from this challenging vintage. which is nicely textured and shows delicious orchard fruit flavors. I adore the new 2019 MacRostie ‘Sparkling Brut’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 91) which is fresh and shows a lovely texture and silky mousse. Learn more about this great Sonoma winery at https://macrostiewinery.com/ Here are the outstanding wines by MacRostie.

2019 MacRostie Vineyards ‘Sparkling Brut’ Sparkling Wine- The 2019 ‘Sparkling Brut’ is a methode champenoise wine that spent 30 months en tirage before disgorgement in August 2022. This is very fresh on the mouth, with a ripe texture. Layers of honeydew melon and baked apple combine with good finesse on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 91

2021 Clockwise Sauvignon Blanc- The 2021 Clockwise Sauvignon Blanc was matured entirely in stainless steel and was mostly sourced from the Jewell Ranch. White grapefruit and nectarine tones combine with shades of gooseberry and stony minerals on the nose. The palate is very fresh and lithe with a soft texture upon entry. Gorgeous to consume now, enjoy over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

2021 MacRostie Vineyards Rose- Sourced mostly from a cooler portion of the Thale’s Estate Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this was fermented in both stainless steel and neutral oak barrels before bottling. A pretty salmon hue, this offers guava and cranberry flavors that mingle well with shades of kumquat and wet rock on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2020 MacRostie Vineyards ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Coming from a site near the Gap’s Crown Vineyard, the ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ is set at 1400 feet and features 44 acres of Pinot Noir and 30 acres of Chardonnay. This wine is very fresh and smooth on the mouth with a sensational texture. Layers of buttercream and lemon rind dusted brioche combine with salted praline notes on the palate. Complex and quite salty, this utterly fabulous Chardonnay to enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 MacRostie ‘Day Ranch Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Day Ranch Vineyard’ is an Anderson Valley site that is planted to a range of clonal selection Pinot Noir. The wine was stored for ten months in 25% new French oak before bottling, as it slowly unveils ripe red currants and tobacco leaf with flinty undertones on the nose. The palate comes off fresh and beautifully textured, with concentrated tart red fruit and citrus rind flavors. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

Dom Perignon Rose Champagne

For years I have loved the very special Dom Perignon Rose Champagne, having tasted this beauty back to the 1990s. There was always something special and unique about this limited production wine. The first vintage of the Dom Perignon Champagne dates back to the 1921 vintage and was later released for sale in 1936. Not long after its release, Moet & Chandon acquired the Dom Perignon brand name. The first Dom Perignon Rose was introduced in 1959 and nearly all of the wine was sent to the Shah of Iran to be served at his celebration to mark the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire in 1971! Dom Perignon Rose became made commercially available back in 1962.

For what seemed like an eternity he first vintage of the Dom Perignon Champagne was produced in 1921 and released for sale in 1936. Shortly after its release, Moet & Chandon acquired the brand name. The Dom Perignon Rose was only produced in 26 select vintages from 1959 to 2006. The new edition of Rose comes from the downright epic 2008 vintage— one that saw near perfect conditions at harvest.

I was enamored by the 2004 and 2006 editions of this wine. But the 2008 edition absolutely eclipses these wines. The 2008 Dom Perignon Rose (OB, 98) needs really an hour in the decanter to fully get going. We watched this wine evolve over several hours and it really improved, albeit involving a very deliberate unraveling process. Once aroused this evokes such a pretty red fruit profile alongside the incredible musty and earthy character of the wine. Refined bubbles make this such a delight to consume and at more than 400 USD, this is no cheap treat. Learn more about this very special wine at https://www.domperignon.com/ww-en/champagne/vintage/dom-perignon-rose/2008 and here is my review of the scintillating 2008 Dom Perignon Rose Champagne.

2008 Dom Perignon Rose Champagne- The 2008 Dom Perignon Rose spent a whopping 12 years en tirage before disgorgement. It is nothing short of a masterpiece with each working part humming along in unison. Pinot Noir grapes were sourced from “Chants de Linottes” parcels in Hautvillers as well as the “Vauzelles” parcels in Aÿ. Right away the haunting aromatics grip the senses, with red rose petals, raspberry coulis, and suggestions of enoki mushroom, with bright kumquat blossom notes that all take shape in the glass. The palate shows refined bubbles and an ultra-silky mousse. Gorgeous layers of red fruits immediately greet you on the palate. With more air suggestions of peat moss and white truffle shavings enter the fray. A complete wine, this improves considerably with an hour in the decanter. Enjoy this ageless beauty now and over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2023-2043- 98

Sparkman Cellars Retrospective

Last weekend I underwent an incredible journey back in time to enjoy vintages 2013 and 2009 from the Sparkman Cellars wine library. Accompanied by Sparkman Cellars founder Christian Sparkman as well as winemaker Linn Scott, we were all amazed as we tasted these older wines. One thing we noticed right away was the freshness that was intact in the white wines.

Kelly and Chris Sparkman founded Sparkman Cellars in Woodinville, Washington back in 2004.  They started with 12 barrels of wine (289 cases) and three labels in a tiny warehouse. By their third year they had amassed 1425 cases of wine and eight labels. Today they produce over 12,000 cases in their beautiful new location which was formerly the Redhook Brewery in Woodinville.

I loved the white wines of the tasting. Both the 2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling (OB, 92) and the 2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Lumiere’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) were not only very delicious wines but had a great underlying finesse from this warm vintage. Grenache has been one of the most popular wines produced by Sparkman and I adored their 2013 ‘Wonderland’ Grenache (OB, 93) which was still very pure in terms of bright red fruits, and showed a silky texture with good weight. This thing was right in its sweet spot. Syrah is not always a varietal that ages well in Washington. But the 2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Darkness’ Syrah (OB, 93) was extremely finesse-driven with plenty of depth and flavor density. I was amazed by the overall quality of these wines that reminds you that great Washington wine is built to age. Learn more about these outstanding wines at sparkmancellars.com

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling- The 2013 ‘Birdie’ utilizes Giesenheim 198 and Neustadt 90 clonal selections (two blocks at Bacchus Vineyard), as this was mostly stored in stainless steel tanks before bottling. Very stony, this is showing rich petrol alongside green apple notes on the nose. The palate is very refined and beautifully textured, showing good weight. Enjoy this beauty now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Lumiere’ Chardonnay- Coming from the Stillwater Creek and Oasis Vineyards, the 2013 ‘Lumiere’ offers ripe pear and nutmeg dusted brioche notes alongside shades of marzipan and creme brûlée on the nose. The palate comes off very fresh despite the heat of the vintage. Layers of buttercream and baking spices collide with sourdough bread and lemon meringue all seamlessly come together on the palate. Showing serious weight and length, this is seriously impressive wine that is really peaking right now. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘L’Autre’ Pinot Noir- The 2013 ‘L’Autre’ comes from the famed Temperance Hill Vineyard in the Willamette Valley, as this was stored for 16 months in 40% new French oak before bottling. This comes off a touch lean and linear with red cherry, red raspberry and toasty oak flavors. This shows the challenges of the vintage that saw torrential rains at harvest, as it is lacking both depth and flavor density. Drink 2023-2026- 88

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Wonderland’ Grenache- The 2013 ‘Wonderland’ has 12% Syrah blended in. Aged in 25% new French oak before bottling for 13 months, this offers rich loganberry, Bing cherry cordial and garrigue notes alongside shades of pomegranate seed. The Syrah added adds depth to the mid-palate. Ripe, with good underlying acidity and texture, this is outstanding wine to consume now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2004 Sparkman Cellars ‘Stella Mae’ Syrah- The 100% varietal 2004 ‘Stella Mae’ comes from Red Mountain. Rich and intense, with black olives, black tea, blackberry cobbler and suggestions of creosote, this is a delicious, forward and juicy wine that is beautifully evolved now. Enjoy over the next few years to come. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Ruby Leigh’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Ruby Leigh’ is an awesome blend of 70% Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Malbec which was entirely sourced from the Red Mountain AVA. This 2009 is already nicely evolved now at the fourteen year mark. Red currants, pencil lead, toasty oak and wild mushroom tones all come together on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Stella Mae’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Stella Mae’ is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc coming from the Klipsun, Kiona and La Coye Vineyards. Aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak, this offers ripe red currants with red rose water, tobacco leaf with good underlying finesse and a soft mouthfeel. Finishing long with minerals, this is delicious to savor right now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Kingpin’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Made from 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Petit Verdot, this comes for the Kiona, Klisun and Double Canyon Vineyards, this was stored for 63% new French oak for 20 months before bottling. Rainier cherry with creosote, menthol and suggestions of exotic spices all come together on the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a silky mouthfeel. Layers of toasty oak bring everything together nicely, as this is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Darkness’ Syrah- The 2009 ‘Darkness’ comes form the Ciel du Coeval Vineyard on Red Mountain. Stored for 20 months in 88% new French oak before bottling, this delivers gorgeous dried sagebrush, white pepper and bacon fat tones on the nose alongside rich roasted fig notes. The palate comes off very fresh and shows good depth and finesse, with salty undertones. Considering the age of this wine this offers shocking acidity. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2010 Sparkman Cellars ‘Hallelujah’ Touriga Nacional- Truly a unique dessert wine, the ‘Hallelujah’ is a Touriga Nacional wine that comes from the Red Heaven vineyard on Red Mountain. Blueberry compote, with black licorice, mocha and dried herbs all hit the nose. The palate is plush, showing a soft mouthfeel and shows sweetened blue and black fruits with espresso ground undertones. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 92