Sojourn Cellars Retrospective

Sonoma wines just age so gracefully. Sitting across Sojourn director of winemaking Erich Bradley we talked about the vintages and the wines that he presented me. “I think that 2014 was a super vintage” he said. Wafts of truffle lined this beautiful Pinot Noir that was still remarkably fresh and elegant.

Sojourn Cellars has been crafting outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay now for more than two decades. It all dates back to 2001 when two tennis friends–Craig Haserot and Erich Bradley–who shared a passion for two things: great wine and tennis. With Erich’s experience as an Assistant Winemaker at Arrowood Winery, the two developed a plan to produce small bottlings of Cabernet Sauvignon from outstanding vineyard sources. They began with a hundred cases of Cabernet Sauvignon that they sold to friends and family. Today they produce 21 different wines and have customers worldwide. Randy Bennett serves as winemaker and general manager.

I was surprised how well these Chardonnay wines cellared. Now at over a decade old, the 2012 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) remains very vibrant and fresh with a silky texture and great sense of weight. I adored the 2014 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is deep and concentrated with plenty of salty character from this incredible vineyard in the Sonoma Coast. Learn more about these great wines at sojourncellars.com and here are my reviews of the older wines poured to me at Sojourn Cellars.

NV Sojourn Sparkling Wine- This is a limited production wine that is made from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. This is a zero dosage wine that offers brioche and saline drenched pear on the nose with hints of cashew nut. The palate shows good weight with wonderful structure and copious minerals. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2012 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This is beautifully evolved Chardonnay showing honeysuckle and nutmeg dusted brioche notes alongside roasted pineapple tones. This is wonderfully fresh with ripe peach, Marcona almond and juicy Japanese pear notes with serious viscosity and length. The silky mouthfeel makes this even more enticing. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2013 Sojourn ‘Durell Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This wine comes from this storied Sonoma site and comes off very nutty and stony on the nose. Salted Macadamia nut alongside peat moss, nectarine and lemon rind with vanilla cream notes come together on the palate. Showing serious length, this is beautiful, refined Chardonnay that will cellar well for another five years. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2014 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The outstanding 2014 Sojourn ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is a treat to enjoy right now. Red rose petals come together with Marello cherry, ripe pomegranate seed and shades of orange rind. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is plush and soft with a silky texture and no rough edges. This will easily go for another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2014 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- An outstanding wine from this warm vintage, the 2014 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir, comes from this storied Sonoma Coast site which neighbors the Pacific Ocean. The wine is very rich and salty with incredible tension and very pure red fruit flavors. Citrus rind and shades of white truffle combine with the salty red fruits, as this is a stunning wine that is just hitting its stride. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2021 Sojourn ‘UV Lucky Well Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This comes from a site in the Sonoma Coast that is at the top of the Coastal Range. Aged in 50% new French oak, vines were planted back in 2008. This comes off very perfumed with red rose petals alongside ripe strawberry and salted orange rind. The palate is deep and concentrated with loads of crunchy and salty red fruits that combine with Mandarin orange zest and serious length. Beautiful and pure, this is a beautiful new Pinot Noir that will cellar well for decades to come. Drink 2023-2038- 94

WALT

For years I have admired one of the outstanding producers of Sonoma Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. WALT was named after Kathryn Hall's parents, Bob and Dolores Walt who were originally vintners and were  a source of daily inspiration for her. Today WALT Wines sources from some Pacific Coast's most distinctive vineyards from Sonoma to Oregon. For those who love Pinot Noir, this is a rare chance to try an incredible range of wines that showcase these incredible vineyards. I love loved these wines since their inception.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to taste with WALT winemaker Alison Frichtl who has been with the company for fifteen years, starting as an enologist. She and vice president of winemaking Megan Gunderson have worked closely together for years. One site to continue to watch is big and bold Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from their estate vineyard, Bob’s Ranch, which is located in the Petaluma Wind Gap near Sebastapol. I have been really impressed over the years with the quality of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from this vineyard.

Do not miss out on the 2021 WALT ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is deep and concentrated, with serious underlying acidity and marvelous weight. This is a perfect wine for any lover of great Sonoma Chardonnay. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.waltwines.com Here are the beautiful new wines by WALT.

2021 WALT ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- The 2021 WALT ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay (30% new French oak) comes together with ripe mango, banana, lemon cream. white peach and copious salty minerals on the palate. The long finish lingers marvelously on the tongue, as this beauty is best best enjoyed over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 WALT ‘Sangiacomo Vineyard’ Chardonnay- WALT has been working with this site for more than a decade, as they source from three parcels in the vineyard. Each lot is picked separately and then blended back together. This comes off very salty and savory with salted Marcona almond, toasted brioche bread, and roasted pineapple notes on the palate. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 WALT ‘Bob’s Ranch’ Chardonnay- This wine comes from a cooler site that sees a lot of fog during harvest. Stored in 35% new French oak, this offers serious weight and great underlying finesse. Cantaloupe and lemon curd flavors combine with shades of Japanese pear and nutty undertones. Gorgeous to consume now, this will only get better with age. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 WALT ‘La Brisa’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘La Brisa’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous offering that blends a range of vineyards from the Sonoma Coast AVA. Very juicy with pomegranate seed, kumquat zest, freshly tiled salty soils and shades of red rose water, this is delicious, bright and concentrated Pinot Noir that is drinking beautifully right now. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2021 WALT ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This wine comes from this famed Willamette Valley site. Ripe red rose petals combine with peat moss, red currants and shades of bergamot on the nose. The palate is lithe and polished with a silky texture. Showing beautiful tart red fruits, this is outstanding Pinot Noir that has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2036- 94

Hors Categorie

Hors Catégorie

It is my pleasure to introduce you to one of the unique wines of the world. Roughly translated to ‘beyond categorization’ Hors Catégorie is a pure expression of terroir in a bottle. Sourced from a very hilly, 2 acre vineyard hidden in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, the Hors Catégorie Vineyard is a sight to be seen. This vineyard is so steep that you struggle to climb it. The last time there I was sweating running up the hill with Christophe. The views from the top are unbelievably beautiful.  The vineyard has incredibly tight spacing and Syrah clusters are cropped at less than a ton an acre. The terroir is largely stony with thick broken basalt sprinkled everywhere. When you are there you can truly feel the struggle of the vines in this stony terroir.

I have tasted their new release from 2020 and was absolutely mesmerized. The richness and tension, alongside the stony tones just can’t be beat. This 2020 Hors Catégorie Syrah (OB, 100) is a perfect wine from a very challenging vintage. Very clean and smooth with incredible flavor density and flavor range, this is one for any collector of Pacific Northwest wine. Having tried all the ‘La La’ wines many times, this 2020 will stand tall amongst the finest Syrahs of the Northern Rhone. Learn more about this marvelous Syrah at https://horscategorievineyards.com/horscategorievineyards/ Here is the new review for the incredible 2020 Hors Catégorie Syrah. 

2020 Hors Catégorie Syrah- A completely different animal than the 2019, the 2020 Hors Categorie Syrah is a more fleshy style than the incredibly bright 2019. It is quite simply a perfect wine that will go down as one of the great wines made in a challenging vintage. The nose takes on insanely good aromatic range from pork rillettes to lavender alongside boysenberry jam and shades of creosote and black olive tapenade. Once on the mouth the seamless texture really entices.  Layers of wet gravel and tar, alongside menthol, black pepper dusted bacon, iodine and blood orange zest all magically combine to complete something that is totally different than anything made in the Pacific Northwest. Cheers to Bionic Wines director of winemaking, Elizabeth Bourcier, on this incredible effort that seems to get more and more intoxicating with every sip. Like most outstanding wines made in this vintage, there is really no reason to cellar. Drink 2023-2030- 100

Tulpen Cellars

An outstanding boutique producer of Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, Tulpen is a brand created by winemaker and vineyard manager, Ken Hart. Ken serves as General Manager of Appellation Management Group (AMG) as AMG develops and manages vineyards within the Walla Walla Valley — including vineyards for a’Maurice, Dunham Cellars along with another 10 properties.

Wines by Tulpen are unabashedly bold and full-bodied. They’ve developed quite a cult following in the Pacific Northwest and the latest set of wines come from the outstanding 2018 vintage. These are some of the best Tulpen wines that I have ever had. Do not miss out on the scintillating 2018 Tulpen ‘Yellowbird Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) which is dense and powerful with a great acid backbone. Learn more about these electric wines at https://tulpencellars.com/ and here are my reviews of the new Tulpen wines.

2018 Tulpen ‘Tokar Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The  2018 Tulpen ‘Tokar Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers cedar and black currants that combine with milk chocolate notes on the nose. The palate has good freshness and verve, with bright acidity and firm tannins that hold in place a deep core of black fruits and scorched earth accents. Drink 2022-2035- 92

2018 Tulpen ‘Los Oidos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Beautiful to enjoy now, the 2018 Tulpen ‘Los Oidos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers pencil lead and blackberry pie notes that combine with anise and violets on the nose. The palate is complex and delicious with dusty soils and leather notes that combine with the fantastic acidity and bright black fruit flavors. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2018 Tulpen ‘Yellowbird Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Yellowbird Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a beautiful Walla Walla Valley expression of this varietal. Once on the nose this takes on beautiful black florals with loamy soils, cigar box and black cherry compote that all take shape in the glass. The palate is deep and concentrated, with firm tannins and a great veil of tension. Highly enjoyable now, consume this beauty over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

White Walnut

Today we present one of the electric new brands out of Oregon. White Walnut is the brainchild of the former winemaker and general manager of Archery Summit, Chris Mazepink, who purchased land in the Dundee Hills back in 2013. Chris sensed the potential of the property as it is located adjacent to the vineyards of legendary Oregon wineries Domaine Drouhin and Archery Summit. Chris and his sons, Archer and Charles, cleared the land, by hand, in the summer of 2014 and then planted it to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in 2015 and 2016. They preserved the remaining walnut trees on the property that continue to produce fruit and are now well over 70 years old, standing stoic amongst the vines. A smaller site at less than seven planted acres, Chris sees incredible potential for Chardonnay in the Dundee Hills. I have really been impressed with these wines since their inception and then ew releases from 2021 were truly amazing.

Do not miss out on the incredible 2021 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay (OB, 95) which is vibrant with its tension and also very soft with glorious length. delivers really good range and a silky mouthfeel. Even better is the sensational 2021 White Walnut ‘Amphorae’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which shows immense texture and is very gratifying on the mouth, with serious viscosity and underlying acidity. Learn more about this outstanding new winery at https://www.whitewalnutestate.com Here are the great new wines by White Walnut.

2021 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills Estate Grown’ Chardonnay- The gorgeous 2018 ‘Dundee Hills Estate Grown’ Chardonnay is a joy to consume right now. Immediately gratifying on the mouth, this offers whipping cream, honeydew melon and a soft mouthfeel upon approach. Medium to full-bodied, this is highly seamless Chardonnay that shows a light dusting of salinity and rocky undertones to add complexity. Great to consume now, enjoy over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2021 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay- The 2018 ‘Worden Hill Road’ Chardonnay is a stunning, limited production Chardonnay that has some great cellaring potential. Once on the nose this takes on layers of citrus rind, creme caramel, roasted pineapple and suggestion of wet stone. The palate is fat and unctiuous, showing the heat of the vintage — yet maintaining a bright underlying acidity. Rich and layered, with tropical, melon and citrus fruits, do not serve too warm to enjoy the full gamut of complexity. Only 75 cases produced so get this while you can. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay-  The 2021 White Walnut ‘North Block’ Chardonnay comes from this site high atop the Dundee Hills AVA. The nose shows off bright Bartlett pear, cardamom dusted cantaloupe, rock salt encrusted Challah bread and suggestions of stony minerals. The palate is utterly seamless and very soft, as this glides throughout the drinking experience. Deeply concentrated, with its lovely salinity and underlying finesse, this is a stunning new bottling by winemaker Chris Mazepink. Enjoy now and over the next twelve years to come. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 White Walnut ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Dundee Hills’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous warm vintage effort from White Walnut. This is loaded with guava, wild strawberry, and red cherry fruits alongside silty soils and suggestions of baking spices on the palate. Lithe and very polished, with a soft mouthfeel, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2021 White Walnut ‘Amphora’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Amphora’ as the name suggests, saw extended time aged in these clay vessels before bottling. The nose is fresh with beautiful red rose petals that mingle with mulberry and pink grapefruit blossom notes. Extremely soft on the mouth, the weightless effect mid-palate is quite dazzling. You are greeted to this pillowy texture and great core of freshly picked guava and red raspberry fruits which makes this particularly difficult to put down. This is already nicely evolved at the two year mark and savor this beauty now and over the next twelve years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 White Walnut ‘Estate South Blocks’ Pinot Noir- The really good 2021 White Walnut ‘Estate South Blocks’ Pinot Noir comes from this site high atop the Dundee Hills. This bottling is wonderfully stony on the mouth, with loads of minerality and tension. A great melange of red and dark fruits collide with Middle Eastern spices, toasted hazelnut and shades of damp earth. Very soft and refined throughout the drinking experience, consume this gem now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 White Walnut ‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir-  Deep, dense and downright delicious, the 2021‘Worden Hill Road’ Pinot Noir displays a wonderful whiff of smoldering stones and cardamom spice on the nose with suggestions of peat moss and marionberry preserves. The palate is silky and elegant with a soft texture. Very pretty red and dark fruits mingle well with copious minerals and stony undertones on the palate. While great to consume now, this has at least another decade in front of it. Drink 2023-2035- 93

Duckhorn Vineyards

One of the only Napa houses that hedged their bet on crafting beautiful Merlot, Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded Duckhorn Vineyards back in 1976.  What began with a mere 800 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon and 800 cases of Merlot in 1978, Duckhorn now has many arms of their dynasty including a winery in Washington (Canvasback) as well as Goldeneye out of the Anderson Valley, who is steadily producing a gorgeous lineup of Pinot Noirs. Duckhorn relies on seven estate vineyards for their wines and makes some of the most consistent Merlot in Napa Valley.

It was back in 2014 that Renée Ary became the fourth head winemaker for Duckhorn Vineyards winemakers that began with Tom Rinaldi in 1978. Her promotion came after 11 years after serving as both assistant and associate winemaker. Born and raised on the East Coast, Renée moved to California to attend Saint Mary’s College, where she earned a degree in chemistry and art. Renee formerly worked in the lab at Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, as she trained under famed winemakers Genevieve Janssens, Steve Leveque and Richard Sowalsky. During that time she took classes in winemaking and viticulture at UC Davis and Napa Valley College.

In August of 2003, Renée joined the Duckhorn Vineyards team under then winemaker, Mark Beringer. Throughout her first decade at Duckhorn Vineyards, Renée learned every detail of production moving from lab manager to enologist to assistant winemaker to associate winemaker in charge of Duckhorn’s Sauvignon Blanc and Monitor Ledge Vineyard wines. I have been so impressed with the consistency of her wines. I am really impressed with their 2020 Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot (OB, 91) which is a great wine made in an incredibly challenging vintage. Learn more about this famed winery at duckhorn.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Duckhorn.

2021 Duckhorn ‘North Coast’ Sauvignon Blanc- For this vintage Duckhorn Vineyards winemaker Renee Ary has blended in 7% Semillon as the wine was aged for five months Sur lie in only 8% new French oak prior to bottling. Soft and very approachable on the mouth, this delvers ripe pear and honeydew melon tones alongside shades of cardamom dusted starfruit on the palate. Drink 2022-2028- 91

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Napa Valley’ Merlot- The 2020 Duckhorn Merlot combines 80% Merlot wth the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), and a touch of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The nose shows bright red florals alongside ripe dark fruits and a touch of chocolate. The palate shows bitter chocolate alongside boysenberry, black tea and firm tannins. This is quite honestly a remarkably achievement considering the challenges of the vintage. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2018 Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2018 ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon has 8% Merlot blended in. Aged for 24 months in French oak, this offers black tea, wild blackberry, cocoa powder and tobacco leaf on the palate. Finishing long, this is delicious, generous wine to consume over the next decade. Drink 2023-2035- 93

Chateau de Pez

A historic site in Saint Estephe, Château de Pez is one of the oldest vineyards of the appellation. Created in 1452, it had numerous owners before being bought back in 1995 for the Maison de Champagne Louis Roederer. The site is across the road from Chateau Calon-Segur as its 38-hectare property is set on diverse terroirs of limestone, marnous sands and gravel giving depth and richness to its wines.

Over the years I have admired these wines for producing good values that are considerably lower priced but similar quality to the neighboring properties. Their ‘Grand Vin’ spends one year in barrel, and then the wine is fined using fresh egg whites, with no filtration. It is then aged in wood (40% new oak) for 12 to 16 months. Winemaker and general manager Nicolas Glumineau was born in 1974 and has been living in Bordeaux for over 25 years. He studied at the University of Oenology in Bordeaux and he serves as winemaker and general manager at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande as well. His new grand vin, the 2020 Chateau de Pez (OB, 93) is deep and complex with silky tannins and good viscosity. Learn more about this outstanding winery at https://mmdusa.net/portfolio/chateau-de-pez and here are my reviews of the new Chateau de Pez wines.

2020 Chateau de Pez- The 2020 Chateau de Pez exudes class with its deep core in the glass. Ripe dark currants melange with dark chocolate and mocha tones with kirsch cordial on the palate. Very soft, with silky tannins, this is rich and layered stuff that will drink well for decades to come. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2019 Chateau de Pez ‘2nd’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘2nd’ by Chateau de Pez is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot with a whopping 12% Petit Verdot. It is nicely tannic once on the mouth with a smooth mouthfeel. Layers of green bell pepper and dark chocolate shavings emerge from the Petit Verdot, alongside boysenberry cordial, pencil lead and espresso grounds. This is really good stuff to consume now and over the next decade. Give this an hour in the decanter before enjoying. Drink 2023-2033- 91

Dutton-Goldfield Chardonnay Retrospective

I am a total sucker for world-class aged Chardonnay. For years I have admired the aging potential of great Chardonnay from Sonoma. Wines from Dutton-Goldfield age so well and I have fondly revisited many of their ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnays from the 2004 and 2005 vintage. Sadly I have consumed all of those remaining wines.

Dutton Ranch is a huge property in Sonoma County. Since the 1880’s, members of the Dutton family have been working the land in Sonoma County. Today, the fourth, fifth and sixth generations of the family are farming approximately 1,400 acres of sustainable winegrapes and organic apples in the Russian River Valley, Green Valley, and Sonoma coast appellations.

I recently had the chance to revisit some older wines by Dutton-Goldfield and the Dutton Ranch from the 2015 and 2017 vintages. The 2015 in particular was honeyed and nutty — hugely complex stuff that is really peaking right now. I love the 2017 release as well which is a treat to visit and still comes off very bright and mineral-driven. Learn more about these outstanding Chardonnays at duttongoldfield.com and here are my reviews of the Dutton-Goldfield Chardonnays.

2020 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch’ Chardonnay- Coming from this large estate in Sonoma County, I have long admired these wines going back fifteen years. This 2020 edition offers bright underlying acidity with poached pear, vanilla cream and suggestions of butterscotch with baking spice dusted brioche. Complex and delicious, this will live on for another eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2017 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘Rued Vineyard’ is located in the scenic Green Valley of Sonoma County and was first planted to Warren Dutton back in 1969. Rich, layered and impeccably balanced, this 2017 Chardonnay offers mascarpone cream, French bread and creme brullee flavors alongside shades of roasted pineapple. This is seriously good now and still has a ways to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2015 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch/Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2015 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch/Rued Vineyard’ Chardonnay shows how well these beautiful wines can age. A brilliant caramel in the glass, this shows lemon zest with kumquat crusted creme brûlée tones alongside shades of mango, cashew nut, wild mushroom and copious minerals. This is really at its peak. Drink 2023-2028- 93

Joseph Perrier

Last winter I had one of the years great visits to Joseph Perrier. A house with incredible history, Champagne Joseph Perrier dates back to the early 19th century. It was back in 1825 in Châlons-en-Champagne that the house was founded on a town that was formerly vineyards. The house is now in its sixth generation of ownership and leadership, run by Jean-Claude and Benjamin Fourmon. This house is probably is best known for its Brut Royal, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The company also produces a beautiful Blanc de Blancs, and an outstanding Blanc de Noirs. Their tete de cuvee, the ‘La Cote A Bras’ comes from a small parcel of Pinot Noir vines and is made every vintage!

Joseph Perrier is the only winery still headquartered in Châlons-en-Champagne and the house manages 22 hectares of vineyards in Cumières and Hautvillers. In Joseph Perrier’s cellar in Chlons, a former chalk quarry which dates all the way back to the Gallo-Roman period. The house has a beautiful chateau where I met with Benjamin Fourmon as we tasted through his beautiful range of wines. This past weekend I had the pleasure of revisiting these wines and the consistency was really outstanding. I love the new NV Joseph Perrier ‘Brut Nature’ Champagne (OB, 93) which is very nuanced and would be a downright killer match for sushi. I was enamored by the intense and powerful 2014 Joseph Perrier ‘La Cote A Bras’ Champagne (OB, 95) which is dense and really needs an hour of air before consuming. Learn more about this beautiful house in Champagne at josephperrier.com and here are my reviews of the outstanding new wines by Joseph Perrier.

NV Joseph Perrier ‘Cuvee Royale’ Brut Champagne- The NV ‘Cuvee Royale’ includes 20% reserve wines and is a blend of near equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay as this was disgorged in October 2022. This was given 7 G/L dosage, this offers alluring French bread and pink grapefruit blossom tones on the nose alongside green apple and stony undercurrents. Fantastic now, enjoy over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

NV Joseph Perrier ‘Brut Rose’ Champagne- The NV ‘Brut Rose’ is mainly Chardonnay (65%) with the remainder Pinot Noir and and Pinot Meunier. Beautiful ripe red fruits alongside kumquat zest and baking spices on the palate. Bright red cherry and cranberry fruits combine with blood orange zest notes on the palate. Very delicate. Drink now.. Drink 2023-2028- 91

NV Joseph Perrier ‘Brut Nature’ Champagne- This’Brut Nature’ has a base wine from the 2016 vintage, including 15% reserve wines.. It is mostly Chardonnay (62%) with smaller parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Aged for 60 months on the lees, this shows pastry crust notes alongside sour apple, and shades of ginger dusted green papaya. This would be a flat out fabulous wine for top class sushi. Very delicate, yet showing a good veil of viscosity, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2014 Joseph Perrier  ‘Tout de Blanc’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne- The marvelous, magnum only ‘Tout de Blanc’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne comes from the 2014 vintage. Coming from a small selection of Chouilly, Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cumières et Epernay sourced Chardonnay grapes, this received 4G/L dosage and was stored in bottle for five years before disgorgement in May 2019. Very refined bubbles immediately greet you. This is just so well-balanced, with copious minerals with lemon oil, kumquat zest, and baked Challah bread, this has glorious viscosity, finesse and length. Do not serve too warm. Only 1500 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2036- 95

2014 Joseph Perrier ‘La Cote A Bras’ Champagne- This 100% Pinot Noir Brut Nature ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Champagne was first produced with the 2006 vintage. This single plot, Cumieres- based Champagne comes from vines which were planted more than forty years ago. This is a dense and rich wine, with sterling minerality. Lime zest, wet stone and sourdough bread tones combine with shades of quince and wild mushroom on the palate. Give this a lot of time to evolve, as this is best decanted now and will cellar well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2037- 95

Querciabella

One of the fine houses based in Tuscany, Querciabella produces a gorgeous range of wines everywhere from Maremma to Chianti. The name Querciabella means ‘beautiful oak’ as the estate dates back to 1988 when Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni, an investor and entrepreneur, converted the family estate to organic viticulture in 1988, making Querciabella one of the first wineries in Italy to employ this practice. Under his leadership, Querciabella became known as one of Italy’s most well-known producers in this region. What was now a single hectare is now 100 hectares for their estate.

The winery produces a range of wines from their ‘Batar’ which is an extraordinary white wine blending Chardonnay and Pinot Blanco, to their incredible Chianti Riserva, which was first made in 2011 and sees extended barrel age. The new ‘Batar’ (OB, 95) is an extraordinary bottling that is silky and incredibly viscous with beautiful length. I adored the new 2019 Querciabella ‘Palafreno’ IGT Toscana (OB, 93) which is mostly Merlot- based and shows a pillowy texture. I think that this is going to satisfy any lover of unique Merlots of the world. Learn more about this famed Italian estate at https://querciabella.com and here are my notes from the gorgeous Querciabella releases.

2021 Agricola Querciabella ‘Mongrana’ White WIne- This is now the second edition of their new Vermentino-based Tuscan white wine which was sourced from Maremma and has a touch of Viognier blended in. This comes off bright and also very soft on the mouth, with honeysuckle water, ripe candatlope and suggestions of white peach on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Agricola Querciabella ‘Batar’ White WIne- This wine was first made back in 1988, as the 2020 ‘Batar’ blends Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. This was barrel-fermented in French oak for nine months before bottling. The wine comes off heady and intense with bright pear and starfruit notes alongside roasted hazelnuts and shades of baking spice dusted brioche. The palate is lithe and polished with a seamless texture. Very seamless throughout the drinking experience, coming off almost weightless, this is quite simply a joy to drink even so young. Savor this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2020 Agricola Querciabella ‘Mongrana’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Mongrana’ is forward and juicy in its ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors with soft tannins. Medium-bodied, and brimming with bright acidity, enjoy now with a boar ragu pasta. Drink 2023-2029- 90

2019 Argicola Querciabella ‘Palafreno’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Palafreno’ is a Merlot-based wine from their estate vineyards located in Greve in Chianti. This comes off very plush and refined with silky tannins that combine with ripe red cherry, red raspberry and cocoa powder flavors alongside fine grained tannins and dusty soil notes. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Agricola Querciabella ‘Querciabella’ Chianti Classico- A bright and lively Chianti Classico, the 2020 ‘Querciabella’ shows a soft mouthfeel with teaberry, tart cranberry, and citrus rind accents on the palate. Very vibrant and refined, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 91

2019 Agricola Querciabella ‘Querciabella Riserva’ Chianti Classico- The 2019 ‘Riserva’ by Querciabella is a truly fantastic bottling that needs a lot of air right now. A whiff of black truffle shavings greets you on the nose, with dusty soils, tart raspberry and shades of walnut all combine aromatically. The palate is plush and refined with long tannins that line a rich core of red and dark fruits. Be sure to give this beauty a two hour decant if consuming now. Drink 2023-2038- 93

2018 Agricola Querciabella ‘Camartina’ Red Wine- The brilliant 2018 Agricola Querciabella ‘Camartina’ Red Wine is a dazzling melange of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese that was sourced from vineyards in Chianti Classico. Very soft on the mouth, this delivers a seamless texture. Layers of red raspberry puree, freshly tilled stony soils, leather and crushed mint all combine on the palate. Quite literally a joy to consume now, this will cellar well over the next fifteen plus years. Give this an hour or two of air before enjoying. Drink 2024-2039- 95

Pio Cesare

One of the historic houses in Piedmonte, Pio Cesare was founded back in 1881 by Cesare Pio. He was a successful entrepreneur who decided to craft a small and select quantity of wines in Alba. Today the winery still stands in the center of the city. Fast forward some 140 years later the winery is now in its fifth generation as this family-run operation was formerly led by fifth generation Federica Rosy Boffa who runs her family's winery along with her cousin Cesare Benvenuto. Born in 1997—an iconic vintage in Piemonte— she is the only child of the late Pio Boffa, the 4th generation owner.

Over the years I have been blessed to taste many of these older wines. The house has a very old-world style of Barolo — not overblown or fruit-driven but relying more on subtle, non-fruit flavors. I can fondly recall tasting the 2004 and 2010 Barolo bottlings over the past several years.

2019 was a vintage that appears to have immense cellaring potential, as the previous vintage was seen with more mixed results. I adored the new Pio Cesare wines. The 2019 Pio Cesare Barolo (OB, 95) is very light on its feet and highly nuanced, with beautiful damp soil notes. This beauty really needs another year of bottle age. Learn more about this great historic house at https://www.piocesare.it/en/ and here are my reviews of the gorgeous new Pio Cesare wines.

2019 Pio Cesare Barbaresco- The 2019 Barbaresco by Pio Cesare offers tart cranberry notes alongside salty soils, dusty minerals and shades of orange blossom on the nose. The palate is very soft and refined with silky tannins that frame a core of pure red fruits, with bergamot and red rose water. This is really good right now but consider giving it an hour in the decanter before consuming. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2019 Pio Cesare Barolo- Really singing already at four years of age, the 2019 Pio Cesare Barolo is a gorgeous effort from this vintage. Intense Asian spices and potpourri notes flood the nose, with shades of kumquat zest and freshly tilled damp earth. The palate is plush and seamless with a very soft texture and glorious length. Firm tannins frame a core of wild strawberry, guava fruit and shades of tangerine peel. Really good now, try to give this at least another year to mature in the bottle. Drink 2024-2045- 95

Orin Swift

One of the bolder wineries in Napa, Orin Swift was founded back in 1995 when on a lark, David Swift Phinney took a friend up on an offer and went to Florence, Italy to spend a semester “studying”. During that time, he was introduced to wine, and he later landed a job at Robert Mondavi Winery in 1997 as a temporary harvest worker. In 1998 he founded Orin Swift Cellars; Orin is his father’s middle name and Swift is his mother’s maiden name. Starting with two tons of Zinfandel and not much else, David spent the next decade making wine for others as well as himself and grew the company into a multinational brand. The winery also has a great tasting room in downtown Napa where you can try his brilliant range of wines.

David’s labels are highly evocative and show his brilliant marketing ability. But what inside the bottle is what impresses across the board. The new wines were really outstanding across the board. The 2021 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years in the Desert’ Red Wine (OB, 94) is a gorgeous Zinfandel based blend that is stunning to consume right now. An awesome effort from a challenging vintage, the 2020 Orin Swift ‘Abstract’ Red Wine (OB, 92) is chewy and soft — best consumed right now. Learn more about these great, intense wines at http://www.orinswift.com. Here are some of the gorgeous release wines by Orin Swift.

2020 Orin Swift ‘Abstract’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Abstract’ combines Grenache with Petit Sirah and Syrah. Inky in the glass, this was aged for eight months in less than 30% new French oak before bottling. Mocha, tar, leather, boysenberry cordial and creme de violette flavors all combine on the palate. A really good effort considering the challenges of the vintage, consume this beauty now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2021 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years In the Desert’ Zinfandel- The 2021 Orin Swift ‘Eight Years In the Desert’ is an outstanding blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah that was aged for eight months in 30% new French oak. The bramble notes from the Zinfandel are lovely, mingling well with wild blackberry, black tea and shades of espresso grounds. The palate is round and generous with a silky mouthfeel and wonderful sense of viscosity and tension. Finishing long with dense black fruits and copious minerals, this is really seamless stuff to consume now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2020 Orin Swift ‘Papillon’ Red Wine- An excellent wine made from a hard vintage, the 2020 ‘Pappillon’ is a proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Nicely balanced, this offers black tea and exotic spice notes alongside dark currants and shades of chocolate fudge. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2021 Orin Swift ‘Palermo’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2021 ‘Palermo’ was stored in 30% new French oak for 14 months prior to bottling. Very ripe and also fragrant with lavender and black rose petals that combine with roasted figs, black currants and cigar box notes on the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and good underlying acidity. Enjoy now and over the next eight years to come. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2020 Orin Swift ‘Machete’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Machete’ is a proprietary blend of Petite Sirah, Syrah and Grenache that was stored in 34% new French oak for 14 months before bottling. A soft texture greets you as green peppercorns greet you alongside black currant jelly, cigar ash and dark chocolate shavings with kirsch cordial notes. Considering the vintage, this is a really good effort. Drink 2023-2028- 92

Walla Walla Vintners

I fondly recall tasting at Walla Walla Vintners many years back. It was packed in their tiny tasting room as people ventured near and far to taste their rather fabulous lineup of wines. That was some 15 years ago and fast forward to today, the winery is constructing a brand new tasing room alongside their spacious outdoor confines. It is hard to believe that Walla Walla Vintners began all the way back in 1995 just a few years before I moved to Whitman College. The current proprietors, Scott and Nici Haladay, were first introduced to Walla Walla Vintners in 2017. Already familiar with the historic winery, they were excited to get the chance to be the new stewards of the iconic red barn and Cut Bank Estate vineyard. Scott comes from a technology background and Nici is a licensed nurse. 

I have been really impressed with the latest wines from winemaker Derrek Vipond. Derrek has a degree from Oregon State University in Fermentation Science, and has worked several harvests across the globe before eventually moving back to Walla Walla and joining Walla Walla Vintners in January 2019.

The new wines are awesome.  I love the new 2022 Walla Walla Vintners Rose (OB, 91) which is fresh and vibrant with a polished texture. Do not miss out on the outstanding 2019 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Cut Bank Estate Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 93) which shows really good depth and flavor range from this somewhat difficult vintage. Learn more about these great new releases at https://wallawallavintners.com Here are my reviews of the new wines by Walla Walla Vintners. 

2022 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Rose- A beautiful salmon color, the 2022 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Rose offers a soft mouthfeel with really good flavor range — think pink bubblegum to orange rind, as well as wet stone, hay and cantaloupe notes. This is fantastic stuff that has both the stuffing and finesse to last another five to seven years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Columbia Valley’ Malbec- Coming mostly from the high-elevation Les Collines vineyard, the 2020 ‘Cut Bank Estate’ Malbec is inky dark in the glass. Rich black and blue fruits parade with graphite, copious minerals and stony undercurrents on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that will age beautifully over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2019 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley Cut Bank Estate Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2020 ‘Walla Walla Valley Cut Bank Estate Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a great new edition from this challenging vintage. This comes off wonderfully herbal with fresh sage and thyme notes alongside black currants, menthol and shades of black licorice. Medium to full-bodied, with plenty of finesse, this is quite simply a beautiful wine that should age well for more than another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley Cut Bank Estate Vineyard’ Syrah- The 2020 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley Cut Bank Estate Vineyard’ Syrah shows beautiful finesse with ripe dark currants, white pepper dusted smoked meats, mocha and tar tones on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2020 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Blend- This is a blend of mostly Syrah (52%) with 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Very soft and approachable on the mouth, this delivers downright delicious rope dark fruit and chocolate flavors with sagebrush accents. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2020 Walla Walla Vintners ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from a range of vineyards in Walla Walla, this Cabernet Sauvignon offers shows black tea and Asian spices on the nose with suggestions of roasted dates. The palate is fresh and polished with a soft mouthfeel and good length. This is really delicious, well-structured wine. Drink 2023-2032- 92

Durant Vineyards

One of the founding vineyards in Oregon, Durant Vineyards focused on producing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris fruit for some of the premier wineries in Oregon for almost forty years. Then back in 2003 they began to make a small amount of wine from their estate fruit under the Durant label. 2018 marked their inaugural vintage at our new winery led by Winemaker, Spencer Spetnagel.  They currently make estate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé of Pinot Noir, and Brut sparkling wine as well as an incredible olive oil!

Winemaker Spencer Spetnagel has a longstanding history in the industry and has his Graduate Diploma focused in Viticulture and Enology from Lincoln University (NZ). He was introduced to fine wine by working as a server in Atlanta and pursued wine from there. Spencer’s new wines were gorgeous across the board. I love the new 2021 Durant Vineyards ‘Coyote’ Pinot Gris (OB, 91) which is rich and shows an oily texture with bright acidity. The best wine I tasted was the 2021 Durant ‘Raven’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which has a soft mouthfeel and plenty of bright orchard fruit flavors. Learn more about these great wines at durantvineyards.com and here are my reviews of the new wines by Durant Vineyards.

2019 Durant Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine- Disgorged in September 2022, this offers green apple, white peach, juicy starfruit and salty undercurrents on the palate. Very astringent, enjoy now and over the next few years. This really would go well with sushi. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2021 Durant Vineyards ‘Coyote’ Pinot Gris- The 2021 ‘Coyote’ comes from vines planted back in 2007. Kiwi, white peach and minerals come together on the palate. Very soft and approachable, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 91

2021 Durant Vineyards ‘Lark’ Chardonnay- The 2021 ‘Lark’ shows off a bright veil of tension once on the mouth. Layers of green papaya, lemon rind and fresh French bread all combine with copious minerals. Generous and delicious, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2020 Durant Vineyards ‘Raven’ Chardonnay- A bit leaner and more linear than the ’21 bottling, this offers strightfward orchard fruits with vanilla cream and a touch of toasty oak on the palate. This is really nice considering the vintage. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2026- 90

2021 Durant Vineyards ‘Raven’ Chardonnay- The ‘Raven’ Chardonnay come from vines planted back in 1993 as this wine utilizes Dijon clone 76. Soft and supple on the mouth, this offers nectarine and bright pear tones alongside a good veil of tension on the palate. Lightly salty, with a smooth texture, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2019 Durant Vineyards ‘Heron’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Heron’ comes from Pommard clone PInot Noir vines. Very light on the nose with bright red fruits, this delivers a nice bright acidity on the palate. A touch lean and herbal with dried red fruits, orange peel and dusty soils, enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 90

2019 Durant Vineyards ‘Coyote’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Coyote’ is a Mt. Eden clonal selection Pinot Noir win ethat was planted back in 2007.  A whiff of white truffle and volcanic soils greets you on the nose, with ripe red currants and tobacco leaf. The palate is lithe and polished, coming off a touch lean and linear, with excellent underlying finesse. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2019 Durant Vineyards ‘Madrone’ Pinot Noir- Coming from Dijon clonal selection 115 Pinot Noir vines, the 2019 ‘Madrone’ offers menthol, wild mushroom and freshly tilled soil notes on the nose. The palate is fresh and polished with tart red fruits, pipe tobacco and peat moss undertones. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

Dutton Goldfield

One of the great, still under the radar producers of Sonoma, Dutton Goldfield makes a killer range of wines from Riesling to Syrah. For years I have enjoyed visiting this top notch producer located in the Russian River Valley. Dutton Goldfield dates back to 1998 when colleagues Steve Dutton and Dan Goldfield decided to start a winery together. Steve Dutton is a 5th generation farmer while Dan has a background in chemistry and later completed the illustrious UC Davis program in winemaking. Dan previously worked at Robert Mondavi Winery and even made wine in Portugal for two years before coming back to California and starting Dutton-Goldfield

Winemaking here is exceptional and the wines are never overblown and always have great bright acidity. I love the new 2020 Dutton-Goldfield ‘Walker Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is very dense and has fantastic underlying tension.  A knockout wine is the 2017 DuttonGoldfield ‘Cherry Ridge Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 94) which shows good richness and amazing complexity. Learn more about Dutton Goldfield at http://www.duttongoldfield.com. Here are the great new releases from Dutton Goldfield.

2020 Dutton Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch Walker Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Coming from old Wente clonal selection Chardonnay, this is a beauty from 2020. Ripe peach, baking spice laced French bread, vanilla cream and hints of pie crust all enter the fray on the palate. Full of depth and finesse, this is gorgeous wine to consume now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 Dutton Goldfield ‘Mendocino Hills’ Pinot Noir- This shows off a soft mouthfeel with straightforward dark cherry, red raspberry and cola notes on the palate. Showing good weight and freshness, this fruit-forward, delicious Pinot Noir is best enjoyed now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2020 Dutton Goldfield ‘Angel Camp’ Pinot Noir- Coming from the Anderson Valley, this offers black cherry, black tea and tilled soils with stony undercurrents. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Dutton Goldfield ‘Dutton Ranch Morelli Lane Vineyard’ Zinfandel- This 2020 bottling comes off very fresh and clean with tart red fruits, a touch of sassafras, cola and suggestions of orange rind. Obviously quite an early pick, this is very fresh, fragrant and delicious wine to enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2017 Dutton Goldfield ‘Cherry Ridge Vineyard’ Syrah- A knockout wine, the 2017 ‘Cherry Ridge Vineyard’ Syrah shows a literal cornucopia of aromatics. Lavender, thyme, baking spices and creme de violette all fill the nose with shades of creosote. The palate shows serious poise and power, with good underlying finesse. Layers of black and blue fruits collide with freshly tilled soils, iron and bulls blood tones. Gratifying and novel, this is complex and delicious Syrah to consume now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

Ponzi Vineyards

One of the older, outstanding producers in the Willamette Valley, Ponzi Vineyards dates all the way back to the 1960s when Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved their young family to the Willamette Valley on a mission to make top notch Pinot Noir. After many research trips to Burgundy and an extensive search for the ideal location, Dick and Nancy bought 20 acres on a small farm just southwest of Portland, Oregon. There were only a few other farmers growing Pinot Noir back then but Dick and Nancy saw the potential for the varietal in the Northern Willamette Valley. Truly one of the historic producers of Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Ponzi Vineyards is now under their second generation with director of viticulture and winemaker Luisa Ponzi.

I have really enjoyed these wines over several decades. The new wines come from the 2019 vintage which has ended up being a remarkably good vintage considering the challenges of harvest for Pinot Noir.  Don’t miss out on the 2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay (OB, 91) which is an outstanding value that is already beautifully evolved. The 2019 Ponzi ‘Aurora’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) is a knockout in terms of texture and lemon zest notes. Just as good is the 2019 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which show incredible weight and refinement.  Learn more about these outstanding wines at ponzivineyards.com. Here are the great new wines by Ponzi.

2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay- Straightforward and delicious, the 2019 ‘Laurelwood District’ Chardonnay offers brioche and lemon rind flavors alongside shades of buttercream on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2019 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Avellana’ is sourced from his vineyard which was first planted to Chardonnay Dijon Clonal selections 76 and 96. Ripe honeydew melon, wet stone and suggestions of lemon blossom all fill the nose. The palate is very soft and refined, with a silky texture and wonderful sense of length. Very smooth throughout the drinking experience, enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Aurora’ Chardonnay- The 2019 ‘Aurora’ comes form the Laurelwood District as this site was planted back in 1990. A bright gold color in the glass, this offers lemon curd and orange peel notes alongside salted green melon. The palate is smooth with wonderful lemon zest and brioche notes alongside a lengthy finish. With plenty of tension this beauty is singing now and will live on for another decade or more. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Alloro’ Chardonnay- This older site was planted to Chardonnay all the way back in 1999. The 2019 ‘Alloro’ Chardonnay is highly concentrated with intense kumquat, white peach and stony minerals on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, with great underlying finesse and a lengthy finish, this is beautiful wine to consume now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir- Delicious now at the four year mark, the 2019 Ponzi ‘Laurelwood District’ Pinot Noir offers juicy pomegranate seed, and strawberry flavors alongside shades of wet stone on the palate. This is really good stuff, with a great combination of weight and tension. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2019 Ponzi ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Outstanding and especially after an hour in the decanter, the 2019 ‘Reserve’ is a barrel selection wine that comes from a range of districts within the Willamette Valley. The soft mouthfeel is fantastic as layers of cran-pomegranate, leather, freshly tilled salty soils and suggestions of pipe tobacco all amalgamate on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

2019 Ponzi ‘Avellana’ Pinot Noir- The seamless and silky 2019 ‘Avellana’ is actually sourced from a field blend of 20 Pinot Noir clones. Soft and supple once on the mouth, this takes on layers of baking spices and blood orange zest that combine with copious minerals, Earl Grey tea leaf, silty soils and suggestions of tart red raspberry on the palate. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years to come. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Aurora’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Aurora’ comes from Pinot Noir vines set on an eastern facing slope in the Laurelwood District. Volcanic and salty soils combine with ripe red fruits, citrus zest and shades of peat moss on the palate. Finishing long with red fruits and minerals, this is very refined Pinot Noir that will easily cellar for another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 93

2019 Ponzi ‘Lazy River’ Pinot Noir- For years I have enjoyed Pinot Noirs from this site which is set on Mt. Richmond in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The wine shows gorgeous aromas of red rose petals and potpourri alongside freshly tilled sandy soils, black tea and a core of ripe red fruits on the nose. The palate is neatly textured, with great underlying finesse and a silky mouthfeel. Very pure red fruits greet you, as this is already beautifully evolved stuff. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2019 Ponzi ‘Wahle’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 ‘Wahle’ comes from this Eola-Amity Hills AVA site which was first planted all the way back in 1999. Tart red fruits combine with a soft mouthfeel on the palate, showing off diatomaceous earth notes and copious minerals on the palate. Shades of citrus zest and bergamot add to the enjoyment, as this beautiful wine is already nicely evolved. Drink 2023-2038- 93

Cadence Vertical Tasting

“We need to do a vertical” Ben Smith proclaimed to me, the last time we were visiting in the summer. “I am game” I said, chomping at the bit to revisit some of the great wines made in Washington State. Cadence was originally known for being the first Washington winery to focus exclusively on red blends. He and his partner, Gaye McNutt, started Cadence together in the late 1990s. It was a time when few people shared his business model. “You go in a wine shop back then and there was no blends section. And that was a marketing challenge when we released our wines” Ben said. “Most restaurants didn’t even have a blend section back then” he explained.

Wine was a love language for Ben and Gaye, who were both entrenched in wine when they began dating in the 90s. “One of our first dates was to pick grapes” Ben stated. “I’ll admit, it was a little weird to be picking grapes on a date” said Gaye. Over time they developed their winemaking style “And now we can taste them today because of that” Gale said. They began creating their wines from the warmest sites in the state, on Red Mountain. This helped them in cooler years such as 2011. Where most wineries struggled with depth, Gaye noted “2011 really suited our style” she said. And when asked what their favorite wines they’ve made over their history? “2011 definitely” they both explained.

It was a true pleasure going back and revisiting these wines. I’ve tasted many of these wines previously either with friends, for review or for my personal collection. The newest wines from the 2014 vintage are absolutely singing. The 2014 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) shows off heady red and dark fruits, with very pretty florals. This is a joy to drink right now. I really loved the 2012 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) which is a bit less dense and more towards texture — a touch more Bordelaise. Similarly, the 2011 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 94) is singing at its high octave now, a touch leaner than the aforementioned wines but still showing plenty of stuffing with a gliding drinking experience.

The older wines that Ben and Gaye poured were marvelous. I was totally enamored by the 1999 Cadence ‘Red Wine’ (OB, 93) which is silky and elegant with plenty of tertiary notes. A knockout wine from a slightly cooler vintage, the 2004 ‘Bel Canto’ (OB, 96) is one of the great wines that I have tasted from this vintage. It is plush, very refined and elegant now at nearly twenty years.

Many thanks to Ben and Gaye for graciously hosting me and other critics. Here are my reviews of the incredible collection of wines by Cadence (cadencewinery.com).

2021 Cadence Chardonnay- Coming from the Chehalem Mountains AVA, this single vineyard Chardonnay comes off very soft on the mouth with layers of creme brûlée, sweet peach and suggestions ripe Japanese pear with copious minerals. This shows a great combination of weight and length. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2014 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc, this shows off beautiful black tea and black currant aromas that combine with shades of black olives and black cherry compote. The palate is deep and concentrated with fantastic underlying finesse. This has a great acid backbone, with refined tannins and a wonderful core of dark fruits. This is absolutely singing now. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2014 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc (50%) with 38% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot, this offers beautiful red florals that combine with shades of Asian spices, sandalwood and suggestions of boysenberry cordial. This comes off very fresh and pure, with a seamless texture. Finishing long with juicy red and dark fruits, with espresso grounds, this is truly a glorious wine to consume right now. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2012 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- From this very classic vintage, the 2012 ‘Camerata’ is an outstanding blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc. This shows beautiful pruple rose petals alongside coffee grounds, wild blackberry and hints of chocolate fudge. The palate shows great richness and underlying tension, as this is aging gracefully now — and has a long way to go. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2012 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2012 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ is nearly all Cabernet Franc (84%), as this displays ripe red raspberry and garrigue notes alongside exotic spices and hints of potpourri. The palate is powerful and soft with refined tannins and bright underlying acidity. Pencil lead, violets and espresso grounds combine with the deep core of red and dark fruits. Delicious to consume now, this has decades of life in front of it. Drink 2023-2040- 96

2011 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- Coming from the coolest site that they purchase fruit from, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the 2011 ‘Ciel du Coeval’ shows a soft mouthfeel on the palate, with bright underlying acidity. Leaner and more herbal than the 2012s or 2014s, this has a nice core of medium-bodied dark fruits with milk chocolate notes. Very balanced, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2011 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- This comes from this windy, southwestern facing set on Red Mountain. This wine combines 59% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This shows better flavor density than the ‘Ciel du Cheval’ with ripe red raspberry and dark currant tones alongside chocolate covered Arabica bean and shades of tar. This is really good now. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2011 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The 2011 ‘Camerata’ is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon with one barrel each Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Rose water and dark currants combine with scorched earth and sagebrush notes on the palate. This shows good depth and concentration and is really peaking right now. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2011 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- Very herbal on the nose, the 2011 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 84% Cabernet Franc with 8% Merlot and 8% Petit Verdot. Dried mint and shades of tar combine with red florals on the nose. This is very well-balanced and pretty, with good underlying finesse and concentration considering the coolness of the vintage. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2008 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with the reminder Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this was stored in 40% new French oak before bottling. Right away this shows off its soft mouthfeel with layers of refined tannins. Layers of ripe blackberry and black cherry notes combine with coffee grounds and scorched earth notes. Complex and delicious, with plenty of concentration, enjoy this now and over the next seven plus years to come. Drink 2023-2032- 94

2008 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- The wonderfully alluring 2008 ‘Camerata’ was poured at the White House Thanksgiving dinner in 2011. This is wonderfully herbal on the nose with garrigue notes that combine with milk chocolate and blackberry cobbler. The palate is impeccably balanced, with fantastic underlying finesse and plenty of depth. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2006 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- It was back in 1997 that they brought the ten acre ‘Cara Mia’ property on Red Mountain and it wasn’t until 2003 that they were able to get the water rights. This was made with third leaf fruit that was planted in 2004. Black licorice and blackberry pie combine with scorched earth notes and shades of sagebrush. This has salty and savory notes with impeccable balance. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2006 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- This beautiful wine has a lower percentage of Cabernet Franc (52%) than normal, with the remainder Merlot. Roasted figs, pencil lead, and red florals all combine on the nose. The palate is soft and refined tannins that frame a beautiful core of red and dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and tar notes. Fantastic now, enjoy this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2005 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- The vintage had some frost damage to start, which lowered yields. Suggestions of creosote with dense dark fruits combine with dark chocolate shavings and pencil lead all mark the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with fantastic underlying finesse and serious flavor density. A knockout, this will live on for at least another decade. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2005 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- Very fragrant and pretty on the nose, the 2005 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 50% Cabernet Franc with 42% Merlot and the remainder Petit Verdot. This is the last vintage blending from Klipsun, Ciel Du Cheval and Tapteil. Very supple on the mouth, with fantastic salty undertones, this exudes class with red rose water, graphite, wild blackberry, garrigue and exotic spice notes. A world-class wine that is best consumed now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2004 Cadence ‘Bel Canto’ Red Wine- The 2004 ‘Bel Canto’ combines 50% Cabernet Franc with 40% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Rich dates and black tea notes combine on this knockout nose with blackberries, dark rose petals and espresso grounds. The palate is viscous with impeccable balance and great weight considering the coolness of the vintage. Finishing long with dark currants and tilled soils, this elegant wine is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2023-2033- 96

2001 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a large portion of Petit Verdot (15%), it is hard to believe that this wine was made 22 years ago. Bandaid notes and shades of truffle combine wth red currants on the nose. The palate is seamless and soft with refined tannins that frame a pretty core of red fruits. This as some really nice viscosity and tension. Remarkably youthful, enjoy this beauty now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2001 Cadence ‘Camerata’ Red Wine- Notes of salty soils and white truffle combine with black currant and coffee grounds meld together on the nose. This comes off exceedingly fresh with good flavor density and length, finishing strong with dried herbs, blackberries and copious minerals. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

1999 Cadence ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The ‘Reserve’ was a barrel selection wine that was Cabernet Sauvignon based. Espresso grounds and dark currants combine with loamy soils on the nose. The palate is soft and shows bright acidity with layers of black fruits and salty undercurrents.A blend of Spring Valley, Tapteil and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

1999 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- Showing a good core, the 1999 Cadence ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is the first vineyard designate from this vineyard. Right away this displays dusty earth and graphite notes on the nose with shades of black licorice on the nose. Very soft and refined on the mouth, this shows excellent length and weight. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 93

1998 Cadence ‘Spring Valley Vineyard’ Red Wine- Made from 70% Merlot with the remainder Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that was sourced from third leaf fruit. Very soft on the mouth, this delivers refined tannins that combine with red licorice, red cherry and raspberry notes, with freshly tilled soils. Fresh and refined, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

1998 Cadence ‘Tapteil’ Red Wine- Ben Smith had been using this vineyard site since the 1994 vintage. 49% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller portions Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This is very fresh and concentrated with a good core of dark fruits, with tobacco leaf and coffee grounds. This is really good to consume right now. Drink 2023-2028- 93

Blackboard Wines

As you probably know, one of my jobs is to share the wines of the world that are not only delicious to consume, but also exude value. An exciting brand with some serious potential, Blackboard is from the Matthews family of wines which is run by the Otis family. In early January of 2022 Blackboard announced the hiring of a new winemaker, Soren Dietz. Soren Dietz. Soren comes from the Napa Valley, having previous stints at Paul Hobbs and Faust, as well as other wineries in Australia.

They also announced that they had invested $450,000.00 back into the local farming community which is pretty impressive. Blackboard is a brand that gives back and they have mentioned that the more wines that are purchased, the more they donate back into educational non-profits. Blackboard has partnered with Winebow in Washington and is also available now  in 18 other states. In terms of tasting these, they are being poured at the Jaine Tasting Room in Woodinville.

I think that these wines will be a bit with the consumer and I was certainly impressed with the inaugural wines by Soren Dietz. Do not miss out on the 2020 Blackboard Red Wine (OB, 92) which is a delicious wine that is best consumed over the next few years. This impresses most with balance, as you can really see the moving pieces here, showing no rough edges. Learn more about these great value wines at blackboardwines.com and here are my reviews of the new 2020 Blackboard wines.

2020 Blackboard Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming fro the Soaring Eagle, McNary and Four Feathers Vineyards, this blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon with 11% Merlot and 3% Pete Verdot was aged for three months in 60% new French oak before bottling. Ripe black plum with cocoa powder and suggestions of baking spices all come together on the palate, with bright underlying acidity. Enjoy this really good value now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Blackboard Red Wine- The excellent 2020 Blackboard Red Wine combines 63% Cabernet Sauvignon with 34% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot. Stored in 60% new French oak for three months, this offers medium-bodied red cherry candy, dates, and cloves alongside coffee ground underpinnings on the palate. Very soft, clean and balanced, this is delicious stuff where everything comes together very neat and tidy. Great in the short-term this is a massive success considering the challenges of the vintage. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Blackboard Merlot- This 2020 Merlot has 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot blended in. Coming from the Soaring Eagle, McNary and Four Feathers vineyards, this shows off medium-bodied red raspberry, black tea and garrigue notes on the palate, with hints of Arabica bean. Enjoy this excellent value Merlot now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

Bodega Hnos. Perez Pascuas

If you have ever had the chance to visit the Ribera del Duero region, it is a mountainous site to be seen. Wind-swept vineyards greet you as this charming area is not only worlds behind in wine tourism but you will visit wineries without any other guests. There are also beautiful lodging options in this region known for earthy and rich Tempranillo wines. Many of the wines from this region are either 100% Tempranillo or have 10% or less of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in.

Bodega Hnos. Perez Pascuas is a historic site in the Ribera, crafting earthy and layered Tempranillo wines that will stand the test of time. I recently had the chance to visit this beautiful lineup and was completely blown away across the board. Look to the 2015 Bodega Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal Reserva’ Ribera del Duero (OB, 93) which is astonishingly good to consume now. Learn more about these great Ribera del Duero wines at Here are the outstanding new release wines by Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas.

2020 Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal Crianza’ Ribera del Duero- The 100% Tempranillo ‘El Pedrosal Crianza’ by Vina Pedrosa offers wonderful damp earthy and truffle notes on the nose alongside shades of boysenberry jam. The palate is fresh and viscous with a soft texture and great sense of length. Very strong with its intensity and citrus notes, this is a fantastic wine that is already beautifully evolved and will provide drinking enjoyment over the next eight plus years.This is seriously good in its youth and will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2015 Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal Reserva’ Ribera del Duero- The 2015 Bodegas Hnos. Perez Pascuas ‘El Pedrosal’ is a downright brilliant effort from this warm vintage in Ribera. On the nose this takes on graphite and tilled stony and salty soils that combine with a great core of dark fruits. The palate shows fantastic tension and a light dusting of salinity that falls on the black cherry and black raspberry flavors alongside shades of kumquat zest. Really gratifying now, enjoy over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 93

Top Source

Get to know fellow Whitman grad and Washingtonian, Meredith Hyslop. Despite her youthful appearance she has been in the wine business in Walla Walla Valley since back when there were a mere 25 existing wineries in the region. After studying Enology and Viticulture at the Walla Walla Institute she moved to France to study in Dijon. Her studies brought her to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France where she worked for 12 years. Upon her return to her home state, she decided to start her own winery to showcase the premium quality of her home state at a competitive price point.

Founded in 2020, This is now the third chance I have had to taste these delicious wines by Top Source. They are stony, with beautiful texture and underlying finesse — very Cayuseesque. Learn more about this new producer at https://www.skurnik.com/producer/top-source/ and here are my reviews of the outstanding new Top Source wines.

2022 Top Source ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc- Very fresh and beautifully textured, the 2022 Top Source ‘Columbia Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc offers papaya and gooseberry flavors alongside a soft mouthfeel and beautiful underlying finesse. Medium-bodied, enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Top Source Columbia Valley Red Wine- Outstanding in this challenging vintage, the 2020 Top Source Red Wine combines 60% Grenache with the remainder Syrah. This quite honestly smells like a Cayuse wine. The range of aromatics is really outstanding with Umami, hoisin sauce, wet stone, black truffle crudo and suggestions of boysenberry sauce. The palate is beautifully textured, with fantastic finesse and length. The combination of weight, finesse and flavor/aromatic range is downright stunning. Do not sleep on this beauty. Drink 2023-2030- 95

2020 Top Source ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah- This is another fantastic effort in 2020 by Top Source, as the 2020 Top Source ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Syrah delivers very stony notes once on the mouth, alongside shades of citrus rind, potpourri water and shades of black raspberry and a dusting of white pepper. Soft and supple on the mouth, this tastes very Cayuse and comes off clean — and trust me, you will love it! Enjoy this over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2030- 94