Passing Time 'Horse Heaven Hills' Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical

It has been now nearly ten years since Passing Time has been making world-class wines. Starting with the 2012 vintage, Passing Time sought to make some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington State. Founded by NFL legends Dan Marino and Damon Huard, Passing Time utilizes the talents of famed winemaker Chris Peterson. Peterson was the first graduate of the Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and working at DeLille for eight years under legendary winemaker Chris Upchurch. He makes wines that are very well-structured and are built for aging. I love the bold style that he utilizes with these wines, which show great acidity and aging potential. There is plenty of new French oak but Peterson has things dialed back so the fruit and non-fruit flavors really do the talking.

Back in 2012 they made their first ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ bottling. Damon Huard’s family have a history in this region formerly in the farming community many decades ago. The Horse Heaven Hills is a highly scenic AVA in Washington that actually holds roughly one third of all grapes produced in the state. The region is home to some of the finest vineyards in the state including the Champoux and Discovery Vineyards.

I loved tasting through the past ten vintages of the ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon. The first vintage from 2012 (OB, 94) was still very fresh and layered, with a superb texture. This is one to drink right now. Even better was the 2013 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ (OB, 95) which was more inky and intense, with more concentration and just as much finesse. Arguably the finest wine I tasted came from what I consider to be the best vintage in the past ten years. The 2018 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 97) is a monstrosity of a wine — still a bit tightly wound — but insanely delicious. This beauty needs a bit of air if consuming now. Similarly, another total stunner was the 2016 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ (OB, 97) which is extremely dense and delicious to enjoy right now.

It was such a pleasure tasting through these older wines and kudos to Dan Marino and Damon Huard for having this incredible vision of creating world-class Washington wines way back during their playing days with the Miami Dolphins. These wines also show the aging prowess of what Chris Peterson can craft in the cellar, as they can age just as well as those he made at DeLille. Learn more about this famous Washington wine project at passingtime.com and here are my reviews of the ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon vertical tasting.

2012 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this very classic vintage in Washington State, the  2012 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon combines 86% Discovery Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, and 9% Klipsun  Vineyard Merlot with the remainder Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Franc. Right now this appears to be peaking with its crushed lavender and damp soil notes alongside blackberry and black currant tones. Enjoy over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2013 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- I am now never surprised how well the top wines from 2013 are showing now. The rich and layered 2013 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon is another prime example why Washington Bordeaux style wines from 2013 are equally good — if not better — than those produced in 2012. Creme de violette, baking spices, dark chocolate covered kirsch and shades of tar all parade with a light dusting of minerals and soft tannins on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that is drinking right at its peak now. Drink 2023-2033- 95

2014 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Deeply perfumed with violets, creosote, graphite and heady dark fruits, the 2014 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon is absolutely singing now at the eight year mark. Very smooth on the mouth, this delivers an intense combination of black and blue fruits with freshly rolled cigar leaf at the moment with great underlying poise and light tannins that frame everything neatly in place. The 2014 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ is in a fantastic spot. No need to cellar this beauty. Drink 2023-2035- 96

2015 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2015 ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon is showing several steps behind the other wines of this tasting. It is intense and rich, yet is starting to lose momentum in terms of its acid backbone due to intense heat spikes that occurred this vintage. Violets, tar, and heady blue fruits mingle with a light level of tension on the palate. This is a fantastic effort considering the challenges faced this vintage. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2016 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Dense, heady and every bit delicious, you have to adore the 2016 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ which is an astonishingly good blend of nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon (89%), with 7% Merlot, and a touch of Cabernet Franc. Inky in the glass, this is very polished and seamless stuff that effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience. Turkish coffee flavors combine with freshly tilled loamy soils, tobacco leaf and shades of creme de cassis that all give hedonistic pleasure without being out of balance. This is going strong now. Drink 2023-2043- 97

2017 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2017 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes form a slightly cooler vintage. The wine combines  mostly Cabernet Sauvignon from the Discovery and Champoux Vineyards, as well as 5% Merlot and Cabernet Franc each blended in. This comes off very smooth and polished on the mouth, with violets, sagebrush, black currants, ripe huckleberry and shades of dark licorice on the palate. A touch less concentrated than the 2018, yet silk and well-balanced, this Cabernet Sauvignon is shining brightly right now. Drink 2023-2040- 95

2018 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The outstanding 2018 ’Horse Heaven Hills’ combines 86% Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Coming from mainly the Discovery and Champoux Vineyards, this offers impeccable balance and poise with loads of blue and black fruits on the palate, alongside coffee grounds, pencil lead, sandalwood and scorched earth notes. Complex and delicious, this is really shining right now and will continue to evolve well for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2023-2040- 97

2019 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Taken from this slightly cooler vintage, the 2019 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon which has 10% Merlot and  5% Cabernet Franc blended in. Coming from mainly the Dionysus Vineyard, as well as Champoux, and Wallula vineyards, this offers incredible balance and poise, with slightly less concentration than other vintages. This is beautifully evolved wine already with its black tea, exotic spice, pipe tobacco and brilliant core of dark fruits that parade with espresso grounds. Enjoy the beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2020 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This is truly an outstanding effort from a challenging vintage. The 2020 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon is densely packed on the palate with ripe kirsch, mocha, tar and sandy soil flavors. Very plump and heady, with a smooth texture this is open for business right now. Fantastic to consume now, I see no reason to cellar this any longer. Drink 2023-2028- 96

Dossier

I love the new range of wineries that Washington offers. One of the most electric new brands from 2022, Dossier was founded by former NFL star Sidney Rice and businessman and fellow Whitman grad Tim Lenihan. For years I have admired the wines made by master of wine, Billo Naravane, who over the years has become one of Washington’s great winemakers. Naravane makes the beautiful wines of Rasa Vineyards. Each bottling has incredible intension and attention to detail. Longtime Washington wine industry veteran Brandon Kubrock serves as general manager, formerly owning his own Ardor Cellars label.

Naravane has crafted another incredible Rose wine. The 2022 Dossier Rose (OB, 93) is every bit as good as the last release and is one of the great Rose wines I have tasted from Washington in the past year. Beautifully textured, with serious weight and nuance, this is a must-buy for any lover of Rose wines. Even better is the outstanding 2021 Dossier ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah (OB, 94) which shows outstanding viscosity and flavor range, with smoky and savory tones that you love to get from a top class Washington Syrah. These wines will be released later this spring. Learn more about this exciting new project at dossierwine.com and here are my reviews of the new Dossier wines.

2021 Dossier Viognier- Made in the Condrieu style by winemaker Billo Naravane, the 2021 Dossier Viognier shows outstanding flavor and aromatic range from this warm vintage. Seamless on the mouth and very buttery — yet showing outstanding structure — flavors range from buttered popcorn, salted Macadamia nut, white peach and juicy kiwi notes, with stony undertones. This is really well-done and refined Viognier that will stand up with some of the best renditions in the state. Drink 2023-2031- 94

2022 Dossier Rose- Made from Columbia Valley Syrah grapes, the 2022 Dossier Rose is a magnificent follow up to the outstanding 2021 bottling. On the nose this takes on green papaya and red raspberry notes alongside Yakima cherry and nutty accents. The palate is incredibly fresh and fragrant with a seamless texture and wonderful sense of weight. Brilliant to enjoy now, savor this beautiful 2022 Rose over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2021 Dossier ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The 2021 Dossier Syrah is a brilliant new bottling. The nose shows beautiful range from smoked meats and bacon fat as well as creme de violette and shades of lavender. The heady aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is lithe and polished but also shows bright acidity and a marvelous sensation of weight. This beauty will surely live on for another decade. Drink 2023-2035- 94

Champagne Billecart-Salmon

One of the brilliant and incredibly consistent producers in Champagne, Billecart-Salmon is pretty small in production as they control an estate of 100 hectares, obtaining grapes from an area spanning 300 hectares across 40 crus of the Champagne region. The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around Epernay, where the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay co-exist, in the vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. It is incredible that this house now spans seven generations, originally formed with the marriage of 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon in 1818. This remains a family winery since the beginning with Louis Salmon, brother of Elisabeth and a passionate oenologist, getting involved in the creation of the wines.

Their tete de cuvee, ‘Cuvee Nicolas Francois’ was first crafted in 1964 crafted to serve as an homage to their founder. The house has received considerable critical acclaim over the years, not only for their top wines, including the Clos Saint-Hilaire cuvée, first created with the 1995 vintage, but their Rose and vintage champagnes in particular. On the west coast of the United States, their Rose champagne is particularly one of the most popular champagnes that you will find in bars and restaurants.

Last year I had the honor of being hosted by seventh generation CEO Mr Mathieu Roland-Billecart, who assumed his position back in January 2019 from his cousin François Roland-Billecart, who headed the House since 1992. Mathieu is a larger than life personality with incredible knowledge and passion for his house and champagne. Lets just say that he doesn’t drink other houses champagnes!

I recently had the chance to try their new 2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Cuvee Nicolas Francois’ Brut Champagne (OB, 96) which is a masterful wine now at the fifteen year mark. Very fresh and polished with plenty of viscosity, this will live on for another twenty years — and potentially more!! Learn more about this famed champagne house at https://www.champagne-billecart.fr Here are the beautiful new Champagnes by Billecart-Salmon.

2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Cuvee Nicholas Francois’ Brut Champagne- From this famed vintage this is a stunning 2008 wine now at the fifteen year mark. The 2008 Cuvee Nicolas Francois’ was stored on the lees for ten years and given 2.9 G/L dosage, this is a blend of Grands Cru wines from the classified Côte des Blancs vineyards (Chardonnay) and the Montagne de Reims (Pinot Noir). The palate offers a seamless mousse and considerable concentration. Salted Macadamia nut, kumquat rind, Japanese pear and shades of Meyer lemon oil dusted brioche all brilliantly combine on the palate. This is very seamless and beautifully textured wine that will live on for decades to come. Give this at least 30 minutes of air if consuming now to take on the marvelous flavor range. Drink 2023-2042- 96

Duckhorn Vineyards

It is hard to believe that Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded Duckhorn Vineyards all the way back in 1976. What began with a mere 800 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon and 800 cases of Merlot in 1978, Duckhorn now has many arms of their dynasty including a winery in Washington (Canvasback) as well as Goldeneye out of the Anderson Valley, who is steadily producing a gorgeous lineup of Pinot Noirs. Duckhorn relies on seven estate vineyards for their wines and makes some of the most consistently great Merlot in Napa Valley.

Flash forward to 2014, Renée Ary became the fourth head winemaker for Duckhorn Vineyards winemakers that began with Tom Rinaldi in 1978. Her promotion came after 11 years after serving as both assistant and associate winemaker. Born and raised on the East Coast, Renée moved to California to attend Saint Mary’s College, where she earned a degree in chemistry and art. Fascinated by the intersection between science and an art, winemaking quickly became Renée’s passion, career and way of life. Her first job was working in the lab at Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, as she trained under famed winemakers Genevieve Janssens, Steve Leveque and Richard Sowalsky. During that time she took classes in winemaking and viticulture at UC Davis and Napa Valley College. Renee has been doing a marvelous job with this program and even has been a pillar of consistency, regardless of vintage.

I love the new 2022 Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc (OB, 91), which has great poise and a soft mouthfeel that has a splash of Semillon blended in. 2020 was not kind to Napa vintners but the 20020Duckhorn ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot (OB, 93) is one of there great Merlot wines that I have tasted from this vintage. This is one for any serious collector of new world Merlot. Learn more about this famed winery at duckhorn.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Duckhorn.

2022 Duckhorn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc- Soft and very approachable right now, the 2022 Duckhorn Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc offers a smooth texture, showing good weight and a touch of sweetness. Kiwi and honeydew melon flavors collide with minerals and shades of salted cashew nut on the palate. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon- A really good blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 7% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, this was stored in 50% new oak for 16 months before bottling. This comes off clean with ripe dark currants, espresso grounds, and milk chocolate tones. Enjoy now and over the next several years. This is really good considering the challenges faced this vintage. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot- It was back in 1978 that Dan and Margaret Duckhorn took the plunge and were the first in Napa to craft a single vineyard Merlot sourced from‘Three Palms Vineyard’ which is located in Calistoga. This 2020 edition is a combination of A blend of nearly all Merlot with 2% Malbec blended in. Right away this is extremely alluring aromatically with chocolate pie, blueberry and violets with freshly tilled loamy soil notes. The palate is concentrated and shows good tension and weight. This is an amazing effort in a tough vintage. Drink 2023–2030- 93

2019 Duckhorn Vineyards ‘The Discussion’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘The Discussion’ is a superb blend from this outstanding vintage. A combination of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon with 31% Merlot and a dash of Malbec and Cabernet Franc, this shows a wonderful combination of weight and finesse once on the palate. Rich dark currants collide with dark chocolate shavings, tar, espresso grounds, and blueberry compote on the palate. A wow-factor bottling, this will live on for decades to come — but is irresistible to consume in its heady youth. Drink 2023-2038- 94

L'Ecole No. 41

I am a bit nostalgic when it comes to Walla Walla wine. I can’t help harken back to my days at Whitman College, more than 20 years ago. I fondly remember tasting at L’Ecole No. 41 for the first time, walking through their big set of double doors and tasting their beautiful range of wines. For several years now winemaker Marcus Rafanelli has been crafting a beautiful range of wines. Last summer I had a chance to taste with him and GM Marty Clubb who shared some really cool older wines.

The new wines from L’Ecole are outstanding despite the obvious challenges of the vintage. Don’t miss out on the 2021  L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Semillon (OB, 92) which is a steal at under 25 bucks. I love the new 2020 L’Ecole No. 51 ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah (OB, 92) which is concentrated and comes off clean with rich dark fruit flavors. I think that people will really adore the new 2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine (OB, 95) which is a resounding success in this vintage with great richness and stony character from this one of a kind site in the Walla Walla Valley. Learn more about this outstanding winery at http://lecole.com/ Here are the great new wines by L’Ecole No. 41.

2021 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Semillon- Another killer value by this house, the 2021 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Semillon offers a very smooth texture upon entry. Layers of salted macadamia nut, white peach and lychee come together nicely on the palate. Very seamless, with bright underlying acidity, enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Merlot- Coming from both the Ferguson and Seven Hills Vineyards, this Merlot offers ripe red cherry with tobacco leaf, milk chocolate, black raspberry and firm tannins that hold everything in place. Highly structured and delicious, give this an hour in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- This outstanding value comes from some choice sites — Estate Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, Dionysus, Stone Tree, Estate Ferguson, and Summit View Vineyards. It is ripe and irresistible right now in its light cocoa powder notes alongside Bing cherry, menthol and coffee grounds. Enjoy now and over the next few years. 82% Merlot with 15% Cabernet Franc and small parts Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- Inky in the glass, this has 16% Grenache and a dash of Mourvèdre blended in. This wine has been consistently great and the 2020 edition is just as good as the others. Ripe dark berry notes combine with salty soils, wintergreen and sage notes alongside a touch of mocha on the palate. Complex, mineral-driven and fantastic to savor now with a juicy steak, I can’t help but think what a wonderful glass pour this would be at a top steakhouse. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Cabernet Franc/Merlot’ Red Wine- A 50/50 split of varietals, this is also equally from the Ferguson and Seven Hills Vineyard. Red bell pepper, crushed mint, black pepper and gobs of dark fruits greet you with silky tannins and bitter chocolate notes on the palate. Finishing long, this is really fantastic stuff from a challenging vintage. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Really good right now, the 2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is another fantastic release from this house. The palate is medium to full-bodied with refined tannins and a refined texture. Delicious to consume right now, this black fruit and espresso ground-driven gem is already ready to go. Savor this now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-208- 92

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Walla Walla Valley 40th Anniversary’ Red WIne- Showing off the iconic schoolhouse label that I enjoyed for more than a decade prior to my writing career, the 2020 ‘Walla Walla Valley 40th Anniversary’ blends Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge fruit and is mostly Merlot (50%) with the remainder Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine comes together pillowy and soft with a seamless texture and glorious sense of length. Bright black currants and blackberry tones combine with shades of creosote, garrigue and coffee grounds on the palate. This is seriously good stuff that is best enjoyed after a one to two hour decant. Drink 2023-2030- 95

2020 L’Ecole No. 41 ‘Ferguson Vineyard’ Red Wine- Many years ago L’Ecole had the idea to plant their high elevation vineyard on ancient lave flow soils. For years I have admired this wine which is remarkably stony and age-worthy. This edition comes from the challenging 2020 vintage and is a marvelous blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (59%) with 24% Merlot and the remainder Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. There is power with restraint here, as the underlying tension and stony terroir really tells the story. Medium to full-bodied cassis, anise, Turkish coffee and creme de violette flavors combine with refined tannins on the palate. Give this beauty a two hour decant if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2030- 95

Rivaura

If done right, Idaho wine can be world-class. Such is the case with one of the most scenic wineries that you will find in the Pacific Northwest — Rivaura. Set on a stunning riverfront location just outside of Lewiston, Idaho, on the Clearwater River, it was back in 2014 that Rivaura founders Ron Hewett, Sr., along with his sons Ron, Jr., and Reece Hewett, founded this winery. For more than 60 years, this family has grown up along the banks of the Clearwater River in the Lewis-Clark Valley, just a tad east of Lewiston, Idaho at Arrow near Juliaetta, Idaho. Prior to stating their winery the Hewetts talked to Kevin Pogue, PhD, RG, of VinTerra Consulting who confirmed that their site was perfect for grape growing.

I am so impressed with the new wines by Rivaura. Billo Naravane, MW, of Rasa Vineyards fame, has crafted another outstanding range of wines for Rivaura, coming from the very challenging 2020 vintage. A killer value is the 2020 Rivaura ‘River Ranch Red’ Red Wine (OB, 91) which shows good richness and flavor complexity.  I adored the new 2020 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Syrah (OB, 93) which shows very unique terroir and plenty of dense dark fruits with savory notes. This is delicious wine to consume now and over the next ten years. Learn more about this really exciting new Idaho wine project at rivaura.com and here are my reviews of the new Rivaura wines. 

2020 Rivaura Merlot- The 2020 Rivaura Merlot is an excellent effort from this challenging vintage. Ripe black plum, cigar box and anise notes mark the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a silky texture and plenty of weight. Layers of kirsch and black raspberry dominance, with salty undertones, as this beauty is best enjoyed now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Rivaura ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Reserve’ comes from the north blocks of the vineyard that is a combination of three clonal selection Cabernet Sauvignon. This is marvelously concentrated and silky with a refined texture. The wine comes off very clean despite the obvious challenges of the vintage. Cloves and mocha tones combine with shades of black licorice, cigar box and black currants on the palate. Complex and delicious, this is drinking marvelously now so I see no reason to cellar. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2020 Rivaura ‘Insomniac’ Red Wine- The outstanding 2020 ‘Insomnia’ is sourced from the southern portion of the Rivaura Vineyard. This vintage blends mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with Cabernet Franc, and a touch of Petit Verdot. This was stored in 55% new French oak for eighteen months prior to bottling bottling, and opens with black currant cordial, tar, espresso grounds and creme de violette on the palate. Full-bodied and delicious, enjoy this outstanding wine now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2030- 94

Hundred Suns

Hundred Suns is a story by Grand Coulter and Renee Saint-Amour who left California for Oregon where Grant first worked as assistant winemaker at Hamacher wines and then spent the bulk of 10 years as assistant winemaker and then winemaker at Beaux Freres. Then in 2015 they both sold their Portland house and bought a house in the Willamette Valley to start their project, Hundred Suns. Grant became winemaker for Flaneur Wines and in 2018 they bought a 4.5 acre property in the Eola-Amity hills.

For years I have admired the wines. These wines are technically very brilliant, each showing a beginning, a middle, and and end. They tell you a story about each individual site. I was blown away with the value wine, their 2021 Hundred Suns ‘Old Eight Cut’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which is a killer deal at under fifty bucks and gives you serious concentration and underlying acidity for a great price. One of the outstanding Oregon Pinot Noirs that I have sampled over the past year, the 2021 Hundred Suns ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) is a downright sexy wine with a brilliant core of bright red fruits and florals. Learn more about these outstanding wines at hundredsunswine.com and here are my reviews of the brilliant new Hundred Suns wines.

2021 Hundred Suns ‘Old Eight Cut’ Chardonnay- The ‘Old Eight Cut’ is a reference to a diamond cut which dates back to the 1400s. Stored in French oak, this 2021 Chardonnay offers brilliant flavor range and texture once on the mouth. Layers of Meyer lemon cream, nutmeg dusted brioche, green honeydew melon and suggestions of Japanese pear on the palate. Finishing very long with light cream and minerals, this is nothing short of world-class Chardonnay that will live on for a decade or more. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2021 Hundred Suns ‘Marianas’ Chardonnay- A barrel select wine from the 2021 vintage, the ‘Marianas’ is named after the deepest part of the ocean. Stored in French oak for 11 months and then an addition 4 months in stainless steel prior to bottling this shows off hazelnut and pie crust notes on the nose alongside suggestions of white peach. The palate is smooth and silky with amazing complexity. Nutty and flinty undertones give way to a very pretty core of citrus and melon fruits, with cardamom dusted brioche and copious minerals on the palate. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2019 Hundred  Suns ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this famed site located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, the beautiful 2019 ‘Shea Vineyard’ Pinot Noir opens with ripe Yakima cherry aromas alongside freshly tilled soils and cran-orange tones that all meld in the glass. The palate is plush and lithe with glorious length and weight. Enjoy this beautiful, finesse-driven wine over the next decade. Drink. 2021-2033- 94

2021 Hundred Suns ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- I am unabashedly enamored by wines from this site planted by Oregon wine legend Mike Etzel and located in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. The 2021 ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is loaded with bright underling acidity, reveling in its Bing cherry and pomegranate seed flavors alongside wet stone and a silky texture. The finish just won’t stop. Glorious now in its heady youth, enjoy this beautiful Pinot Noir over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Hundred Suns ‘Eola-Amity Hills AVA’ Pinot Noir- The brilliant 2021 Hundred Suns ‘Eola-Amity Hills AVA’ Pinot Noir comes mostly from the Big Cheese Vineyard (80%) as well as from the Koosah Vineyard with both sites having a strong Pacific Ocean influence. This is very concentrated and well-structured Pinot Noir with plenty of nuance. Wet stone and salty undercurrents combine with a gorgeous core of red fruits and baking spices. Complex and delicious, enjoy this delicious Pinot Noir now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 Hundred Suns ‘Carson Phillips Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- I will fully admit that this is the first that I have tasted a wine from this site which is located in the Dundee Hills AVA. This is beautiful wine that will age gracefully. Rich dark cherry and black raspberry flavors with freshly tilled salty soils all come together on the palate. Drink 2023-2038-  94

2021 Hundred Suns ‘Own Rooted’ Pinot Noir- Coming from the Bednarik, Noren and Koosah Vineyards, this delivers marvelous tension on the mouth with dazzling minerality. Rich red and dark fruits parade with wet stone, wild mushroom and tons of minerals. Complex and absolutely impossible to resist, enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 Hundred Suns.‘Old Eight Cut’ Pinot Noir- The 2021 ‘Old Eight Cut’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous effort from this warmer vintage. This is concentrated and delicious Pinot Noir with a brilliant core of wild strawberry, red raspberry, salmonberry and plenty of beautiful finesse alongside red floral accents. Stony and salty, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

Corison

2020 was nothing short of a disaster for much of Napa. I was there during the most intense days of the fires in early September for my wife’s birthday. Tasting outside we even had ash fall in our wine glasses! Many Napa producers chose not to make Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux varietal wines from this vintage because of the intense conditions at harvest. My ears immediately perked up when I heard that Cathy Corison had made her wines during this vintage.

For those not familiar with Cathy Corison, she is one of the famed women in California winemaking. Corison is a master’s degree graduate of the Enology program at UC Davis and has previously served as Chappellet winemaker prior to starting her own winery. For years Corison has implemented a trademark more Bordelaise, and restrained style to her Napa wines. If you have never had the opportunity to try these beautiful wines, you will find them to be highly elegant and a wonderful contrast to wines that simply focus on power or concentration. I will not lie that I absolutely love her 2020 releases. These are very clean wines that you can purchase with confidence. Don’t miss out on her 2020 ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet (OB, 94) which exudes class and elegance while maintaining a silky mouthfeel and bright underlying acidity. Even better is the 2020 Corison ‘Sunbasket Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 96) which shows amazing depth and verve, coming off very clean and showing great finesse. Learn more about these elegant Napa wines at https://corison.com/ Here is my review of her new Corison wines.

2020 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 Corison ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an astonishingly good wine from this Uber-challenging vintage in the Napa Valley. It shows beautiful black florals on the nose with creme de cassis and coffee ground notes. The palate is silky smooth and very refined tannins that frame a beautiful core of bright black fruits. Espresso grounds and tar notes add to the enjoyment, as this beauty is best enjoyed now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2020  Corison ‘Helios Sunbasket Vineyard' Cabernet Franc- The 2020 ‘Helios Sunbasket Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is one of the great wines of its kind that I have tasted from this vintage. Red currants mark the nose alongside bright red raspberry, sandalwood and shades of purple rose petals. The palate comes off very bright with soft tannins that frame a core of bright red fruits, salty soils and a strong acid backbone. Enjoy this beautiful wine now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2020 Corison ‘Sunbasket Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Subbasket Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is another lively and very focused effort from this downright tough vintage in the Napa Valley. Once on the nose this takes on layers of Turkish coffee alongside loamy soils, creme de cassis and Kalamata olive notes. The palate is soft and refined with a smooth texture and plenty of concentration. The bright underlying finesse combined with good weight and is classic Corison. Drink this beauty now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2029- 96

2019 Corison ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The gorgeous 2019 Corison ‘Kronos Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning effort from this fantastic vintage in the Napa Valley. Cathy purchased this old vineyard surrounding the winery which was first planted in 1971 on St. George rootstock. On the nose this displays beautiful red and dark florals that are followed by pencil lead, anise and suggestions of dark currant jelly. The palate is intense and impeccably balanced, with a seamless texture and marvelous length. The bright core of underlying acidity makes this nearly impossible to put down right now. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2022-2040- 97

Chateau Haut-Brion

For years I have admired one of the most famous houses in Bordeaux. Chateau Haut-Brion is one of the world’s great historic wineries of France, and is one of five to achieve the Premier Grand Cru Classé  (First Growth). Located in Pessac, right outside the town of Bordeaux, the winery itself is outside the city, which is rather intriguing as this is the only first growth from the Pessac-Leognan appellation. A visit there is a must, as I had a fantastic visit a few years back. Remarkably there are historical records of the cultivation of this property dating back to 1423. The property was bought by Jean de Ségur in 1509, and in 1525 was owned by Admiral Philippe de Chabot. The estate Château Haut-Brion dates back to April 1525 when Jean de Pontac married Jeanne de Bellon, and in 1533 the Admiral bought the title to the domain of Haut-Brion, while construction actual chateau commenced in 1549. Remarkably there are first records of Chateau Haut-Brion wine found in the wine cellar ledger of the English King Charles II in 1660. In 1787, former United States President, Thomas Jefferson, visited Chateau Haut-Brion and his notes ranked Chateau Haut-Brion among the four estates of first quality in Bordeaux. It is well-known that Jefferson had a great deal of Chateau Haut-Brion in his personal collection and was a longtime admirer of this house.

Fast forward to the twentieth-century, following a series of unsuccessful owners during difficult times, the American banker Clarence Dillon purchased Chteau Haut-Brion in 1935 for roughly 2 million Francs. Dillon quickly turned around the quality of the wines, investing heavily into the property. Chateau Haut-Brion devotes nearly 120 acres to the production of their red wines, while a mere 7.1 acres are planted to white varietals (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon).

Walking along the vineyards, you are just amazed with how close to town everything is. There are even condos that have been recently built that overlook the vineyards. Hopefully one is for sale! The iconic chateau lies in the center of the property and it literally gave me the chills thinking about the history of all that have graced this famed property.

I recently had the chance to taste the 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion, which came from a challenging vintage. This was my second visit to this wine in several years. The 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion Bordeaux (OB, 94) is a wonderful effort from this vintage. It is truly peaking right now and doesn’t seem like it will gain more depth. Learn more about this famed chateau at https://www.haut-brion.com Here is my review of the 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion.

2011 Chateau Haut-Brion Bordeaux- One of the best wines made in a difficult vintage, the 2011 Chateau Haut-Brion shows off enoki mushrooms on the nose, alongside sandalwood, black cherries and shades of licorice. The palate is soft and refined with silky tannins that frame a core of medium bodied dark fruits, with coffee ground and stony undertones.  This is elegant Bordeaux that seems to be peaking now — and will surely provide drinking enjoyment over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

Reynvaan Family Vineyards

Today we share one of the jewels of Walla Walla. One of the famed and most beautiful sites in the valley, Reynvaan Family Vineyards was founded by two of the nicest people in the Washington Wine Industry — Gale and Mike Reynvaan. At the help is Matt Reynvaan who has been consistently producing some of the finest wines you will taste in the entire Pacific Northwest. Matt Reynvaan has long made world-class Syrah but I have found in more recent years that he is also making some of the most compelling Viognier and Grenache Blanc that you will find anywhere in North America.

I love the new 2020 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier (OB, 95) which is wonderfully stony and shows great richness and verve. Don’t miss out on the 2020 Reynvaan ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah (OB, 96) which is one of the most impressive Syrahs that I have tasted from this vintage. Coming off very clean, with herbal, wet rock and glorious black fruits, this is a must-try for any lover of Washington Syrah. Learn more about this outstanding house at https://www.reynvaanfamilyvineyards.com/ and here are my reviews of the new wines by Reynvaan.

2020 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Viognier- A gorgeous effort considering the challenges of the 2020 vintage, the new ‘In The Rocks’ was sourced from this stony site outside of Milton-Frreewater, Oregon. It comes off aromatically very pretty with honetsuckle, dried apricot and shades of nectarine rind on the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with a downright oily texture and loads of mouth-watering acidity. This comes off very clean with beautiful stony and salty tones that make this truly impossible to resist right now. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next five years — and don’t serve too cold! Drink 2023-2028- 95

2020 Reynvaan Grenache Blanc- Really impressive from this vintage, the 2020 Grenache Blanc is truly one of the great wines of its kind that you will find in North America. Lychee and green papaya notes mark the nose alongside suggestions of white peach and Pazzaz apple. The palate is concentrated and also beautifully textured with plenty of stony minerality. Wait for the near minute-long finish as this beauty will cellar well over the next five years. Like the Viognier, this is best consumed at a slightly warmer temperature to take in the thrilling flavor and aromatic range. Drink 2023-2028- 94

2020 Reynvaan ‘In The Hills’ Syrah- The outstanding 2020 ‘In The Hills’ is co-fermented with 10% Viognier. This shows outstanding aromatic range with purple rose petals, creosote, iodine and charcuterie alongside shades of menthol The palate is very fresh and polished wth a smooth texture and good length. Ripe dark fruits combine with copious minerals and flinty undertones, with tobacco leaf on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 94

2020 Reynvaan ‘In The Rocks’ Syrah- Really energetic and very stony, the 2020 ‘In The Rocks’ Syrah zombies a small amount of Viognier. It is very floral and fragrant with potpourri and black currants that combine with smoldering stones. The palate has good freshness and texture, alongside mouth-watering acidity. Suggestions of beef drippings, tar and crushed wet rock combine with orange rind tones on the palate.  Enjoy now and over the next few years, as this is really outstanding wine considering the vintage. Drink 2023-2027- 93

2020 Reynvaan ‘The Contender’ Syrah- You have to admire the 2020 ‘The Contender’ which blends in 5% Marsanne. Aged in oak for 18 months, this offers white pepper dusted bacon, wild blackberry, tar and shades of anise that all come together nicely on the nose. The palate shows good weight and concentration with plenty of bright acidity. Very salty, stony and savory on the palate, this is really good stuff that will be best enjoyed in its vibrant youth. Drink 2023-2027- 94

2020 Reynvaan ‘Foothills Reserve’ Syrah- I have long admired the ‘Foothills Reserve’ which is a barrel select Syrah coming from the Reynvaan ‘Foothills In the Sun Vineyard. This 2020 edition is the finest wine in the new lineup. The nose takes on really good range with green peppercorns, wintergreen and wild blackberry notes alongside wet rock and Umami notes. The palate is lithe with great underlying finesse, coming off very clean.  This is super novel stuff with iodine, wintergreen and graphite notes that combine with the beautiful core of black fruits and black florals. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 96

2020 Reynvaan ‘Stoneessence’ Syrah- You have to be impressed with the 2020 ‘Stoneessence’ which comes from the ‘In The Rocks Vineyard.’ Right away very alluring on the nose, this takes on layers of damp stones that combine with violets, bulls blood and huckleberry cordial notes that all meld in the glass. The palate comes off very soft and nicely textured with a smooth mouthfeel. Layers of toasty oak combine with a beautiful core of dark fruits, seaweed, and stony accents. This is fantastic with its weight and tension, as this is best enjoyed over then ext few years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2020 Reynvaan Merlot- This is only the second edition of this wine, which comes from the ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ outside of the town of Milton-Freewater. Roasted dates, tobacco leaf, tar and shades of red rose petals all show well on the nose, with light flinty undertones. The palate is polished and smooth with plenty of toasty oak that caresses the core of bright red and dark fruits, with pipe tobacco and scorched earthy accents. Showing off a silky texture, this is seriously good and is best consumed now and over the next few years. Dirnk 2023-2027- 94

2020 Reynvaan ‘The Classic’ Red Wine- The 2020 Reynvaan ‘The Classic’ is a really good Left-Bank inspired wine from their estate ‘In The Rocks Vineyard.’ Smoldering stones and shades of tar combine with Black Forest Cake, black tea and scorched earth notes all mingle well on the palate. Medium-bodied with a smooth texture, this is best enjoyed now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2027- 92

No Girls

One of the truly outstanding wineries in the Pacific Northwest, No Girls began as an idea between superstar vigneron, Christophe Baron and Cayuse GM Trevor Dorland, following the success of Cayuse Vineyards. This project features the stony, one of a kind terror found at the ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’. The ‘La Paciencia (patience) Vineyard' was planted between 2003 and 2005, and is located near the Armada vineyard, as the first couple of vintages of wine from this vineyard were initially declassified. The name ‘No Girls’ is connected with the history of Walla Walla. Christophe purchased a building in 2002 that was a former brothel and inside the new building, he noticed the words ‘No Girls’ painted on the wall— and the wine label is an actual photograph of the former brothel. Their first vintage was in 2008 and No Girls has been a remarkable success since then.

Bionic Wines Director of Winemaking Elizabeth Bourcier has been at the helm of this incredible project since 2011. She makes some of the finest wine that you will find on the west coast. The wines show very pure red and dark fruits and show incredible flavor and aromatic range from Umami and smoky tones to savory, stone  and salty notes. At around 100 dollars, they offer very good value as a special occasion wine. The 2020 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Syrah (OB, 96) is one of the great wines that I have tasted from this vintage. Stony, salty and very savory, this is a must buy for anyone that is crazy about Cayuse wines. Learn more about this special boutique winery at https://nogirlswine.com/nogirls/

2020 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Grenache- Coming from this tightly space vineyard outside of Milton-Freewater. Coming off strong and heady on the nose, this shows blood orange zest, white pepper dusted bacon, red cherry candy and guava notes. Finishing long with wet stone and very pure red fruits, this is a fantastic, nicely textured rendition of this wine that is best consumed now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 95

2020 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Syrah- The outstanding 2020 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Syrah is a truly beautiful wine from this tough vintage in the Walla Walla Valley. On the nose this takes on layers of seaweed, smoked brisket, beef drippings and iodine with shades of wild blackberry. The palate is soft and refined with a beautiful core of black fruits, alongside hints of white truffle, cran-orange and oyster sauce. Salty, savory and fully delicious, enjoy this stunning Syrah now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 96

2020 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Tempranillo- One of the great Tempranillo wines you will find in North America, the 2020 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Tempranillo pushes the envenope in terms of weight, intensity and flavor range. This is seriously good right now with dark plum, creme de violette, black currants and Kalamata olive. Really good to enjoy now, savor this over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 95

2020 No Girls ‘Double Lucky No. 8’ Red Wine- Mainly Tempranillo, the 2020 ‘Double Lucky No. 8’ offers loads of bright acidity alongside black tea, seaweed, boysenberry and coffee grounds alongside citrus blossom. Complex and delicious, with a smooth texture and serious weight, this is an outstanding blend that will cellar well over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 94

Domaine Carneros

I was recently at Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa, Florida. Bern’s is one of the great wine restaurants in North America (and arguably the world). I ordered a bottle of ‘Le Reve’ sparkling wine by Domaine Carneros and was saddened to find out that they were completely sold out. I had enjoyed older bottlings of this wine in the past and was really disappointed. For many years I have been enchanted by this sparkling wine bottling which seems to be somewhat ageless. Even in warmer vintages the wine tends to age so well.

Dating back to the 1970s, Claude Taittinger, of famed Champagne house Taittinger, began his search for a good spot to make California Sparkling Wine. It was then in 1987 that he selected a 138-acre parcel in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley. The spot he selected is truly unique, as it has a massive maritime influence being perched near the bay. The vineyard is quite windy and produces highly concentrated berries that are very small in size.

A few years back Domaine Carneros hired Remi Cohen to serve as CEO and help with sparkling winemaker Zak Miller and Pinot Noir winemaker TJ Evans.  She took over Napa pioneer Eileen Crane, who had been crafting sensational, age-worthy sparkling wines in the Napa Valley for over 30 years.

I adored the new 2016 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Reve’ Rose Sparkling Wine (OB, 96) which shows incredible flavor and aromatic range with a silky mousse and wonderful complexity. This is a great wine for any lover of sparkling wine or Champagne. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.domainecarneros.com Here are the new sparkling wines by Domaine Carneros

2016 Domaine Carneros ‘Le Reve’ Rose Sparkling Wine- A brand new wine to this portfolio, the 2016 ‘Le Reve’ Rose Sparkling Wine is a gorgeous blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay that was given .9% dosage and was aged on the lees for six years prior to disgorgement. A brilliant pink hue, this offers tart cranberry and salmonberry notes on the nose alongside freshly baked French bread and stony undertones. The mousse is elegant and very inviting on the approach. Wonderfully earthy and nutty, this shows a great combination of red berry and orchard fruits, with wild mushroom and kumquat notes. Do not serve this beauty too warm! Drink 2023-2038- 96

Walter Scott

Another year, another sensational lineup of Walter Scott wines. It has now been fifteen years since Walter Scott was formed by Erica Landon and Ken Pahlow. Years in the making, the name Walter Scott honors two important men in Ken’s life: Walter, Ken's grandfather, who was a flight engineer for Trans World Airlines and Scott, and Ken's nephew who passed away young and reminded both Ken and Erica that life can be exceedingly short. Their first vintage was produced in 2009 at Patricia Green Cellars and in 2011 Walter Scott began making Chardonnay, which was met immediately with seriously good critical acclaim. The rest has been history.

These are wines that defy vintage. The last full set of releases came from 2019, as they made a limited amount of wines (albeit very good wines) in the 2020 vintage. The new wines come from 2021 and are fleshier and more flamboyant than the 2019s, with bright underlying acidity.

Do not miss out on the 2021 Walter Scott ‘Cuvee Anne’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which is utterly sensational stuff for the price. The best wine I tasted was once again the very stony and flinty 2021 Walter Scott ‘X Novo Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 96) which would pass for a world-class Chablis if blinded. Salty and very stony, this is a marvelous effort that will go head to head with anything else made in the Willamette Valley. Learn more at https://www.walterscottwine.com Here are my tasting notes from the beautiful new lineup of Walter Scott wines. 

2021 Walter Scott ‘Cuvee Anne’ Chardonnay- The 2021 ‘Cuvee Anne’ comes from a range of vineyards and was stored in less than 50% new French oak before bottling. This edition is seriously good with gunmetal notes alongside freshly baked brioche, green apple, lemon rind and shades of stony minerals on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2021 Walter Scott ‘Koosah Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This bright and very elegant Chardonnay comes from this site that has a strong influence from the Pacific Ocean and is littered with broken basalt. The nose comes off very stony and shows pretty honeysuckle and white rose water tones alongside shades of Japanese pear. The palate is soft and refined with serious underlying tension and good weight. Quite literally a joy to drink, this brilliant Oregon Chardonnay will live on for another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘X Novo’ Chardonnay- This wine has developed a cult following over the years. This edition is seamless, silky and very elegant Chardonnay that will live on for two decades. On the nose this takes on poached pear and pastry crust notes that combine with toasted hazelnut and suggestions of cardamom dusted pineapple. The palate is soft and round with seriously good underlying finesse. The flinty tones take you straight to Burgundy, as this beauty is drinking marvelously even at the two year mark. Drink 2023-2038- 96

2021 Walter Scott ‘Justice Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Really fantastic even now, the 2021 ‘Justice Vineyard’ comes from this location that was purchased back in 1999 by the Casteel family. This shows off really good richness with toasted macadamia nut, white peach, vanilla cream and shades of salted French bread on the palate. Finishing very long, with good viscosity, this beautiful wine is really singing now. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘Hyland Vineyard’ Chardonnay- For years the ‘Hyland Vineyard’ has been coveted for its old vine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This is a dense and mineral-driven Chardonnay with layers of kiwi, kumquat zest, wet stone and peach pit notes on the palate. Showing a great combination of weight, viscosity and finesse, this beauty is already hitting its stride — and will live on for at least another decade. Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Chardonnay- For years I have loved Chardonnays from this 140 acre property that is set on marine sedimentary, uplifted seabed, which are some of the oldest in the region.  Wet salty stones mark the nose alongside suggestions of starfruit and nutmeg laced marzipan. The palate is soft and refined, brimming with tension and salinity. Finishing very long with vanilla cream and copious stony minerals, this is lifted Chardonnay that is best enjoyed over the next fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘Koosah Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Koosah Vineyard was purchased by Resonance Winery in 2022 and is located 55 miles from the Pacific Ocean, as the site encompasses 82 acres (44 acres planted). Tart cranberry and wild blackberry greet you on the palate, with wet stone, peat moss and shades of kumquat zest. Very elegant now, this delicious and well-structured Pinot Noir will live on for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘Sojeau Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Coming from this site in the Eola-Amity Hills, the 2021 ‘Sojeau Vineyard’ Pinot Noir offers ripe salmonberry and teaberry notes on the nose alongside baking spices and shades of kumquat zest on the nose. The palate offers lovely tart red fruit flavors alongside rose water, copious minerals a silky texture and great underlying finesse. This beauty will go for potentially two decades. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 Walter Scott ‘Justice Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- For years Pinot Noir from the Justice Vineyard has slipped under the radar. The site is located on a bench that slopes very gradually to the south from 520 to 420 feet elevation and has 17 acres of Pinot Noir vines planted. The palate is plush and polished with gorgeous red and dark fruits alongside tilled salty soils and shades of cardamom. Really refined, this is glorious in its full-throttle youth but will cellar for another two decades. Drink 2023-2042- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Coming from this famed site which was first established back in 1981 in the foot hills of the Oregon coast range northwest of Monmouth, Oregon, the wine offers beautiful pink rose petals on the nose, alongside red currants, tobacco leaf and cran-orange notes. The palate is loaded with crunchy red fruit and a silky texture, with glorious length. A complete wine, this is absolutely singing now but will live on for decades to come. Drink 2023-2042- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The famed ‘Temperance Hill Vineyard’ is located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Shades of tar and tobacco leaf with mesquite all come together on the nose with tart dark fruit notes. The palate is lithe and polished with good weight and bright acidity. A gorgeous core of red and dark fruits greet you, with stony accents and tilled soil features that compliment the fruit nicely. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2021 Walter Scott ‘X Novo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Really good, just like their Chardonnay from this site, the 2021 ‘X Novo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir offers citrus rind notes on the nose alongside cranberry and shades of red licorice and allspice. The palate is very mineral-driven with good verve and beautiful strawberry, pomegranate seed and volcanic soil notes. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

2021 Walter Scott ‘Sequitur Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Sequitur Vineyard is a storied site in the Ribbon Ridge Vineyard, and was planted by the founders of Beaux Freres. The wine is silky smooth with a soft mouthfeel. Layers of boysenberry and marionberry combine with bright acidity and salty accents. Glorious in its heady youth, this will live on for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

Krug Champagne

Today we share one of the storied (and one of my favorite) Champagne houses. Krug was founded by Joseph Krug all the way back in 1843. The house is based in Reims and is currently owned by LVMH Moet Hennessy whose portfolio includes famed French houses like Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Chateau d’Yquem and Ruinart. Originally from Mainz (modern day Germany), Joseph Krug moved to Paris to work in accounting for Champagne Jacquesson and learned so much about Champagne that he began making his own privately. A brilliant linguist, Joseph spoke French, English and German and spoke some Russian, which put his Champagne house in good position to sell to overseas markets.

Following Joseph’s death his son, Paul Krug, took over and began selling Krug across Great Britain. There was great turmoil at the house following Paul’s death in 1910 with two World Wars, although many people contend that the best Champagnes of the century were made between 1926 and 1928. While I have never had these wines, many critics have said that they are some of the best wines that they have ever tried.

For many years Krug has crafted a range of wines including their famous ‘Grande Cuvée’ (which I reviewed), as well as a stunning non-vintage rosé, a vintage Blanc, a vintage Blanc de Blancs from the Clos du Mesnil Vineyard, a vintage Blanc de Noirs from the Clos d'Ambonnay Vineyard and older vintages released as Krug Collection series.

I was blown away with the 170 eme. Edition ‘Grande Cuvée’ which is an insanely good blend of195 wines from 12 different years — with the  youngest being from the 2014 vintage. I love the range in this wine which is everything from kumquat to earthy and stony tones. It is quite simply a masterpiece. Learn more about these very special wines at https://www.krug.com Here is my review of the new ‘Grande Cuvee’ Champagne by Krug.

Krug Grande Cuvée 170 eme Edition Champagne- I am blown away with the 170 ed. of ‘Grande Cuvée which combines 195 wines from 12 different years (youngest being from 2014). The final blend is 51% Pinot Noir, 38% Chardonnay and 11% Pinot Meunier, as they utilize a 2014 base. The palate is silky and elegant with an incredible mousse that immediately gratifies. Layers of kumquat zest, ginger, cardamom dusted sourdough bread and green papaya all deftly combine on the palate. Showing good weight and beautiful underlying finesse, with salty and stony undertones, this is drinking marvelously well even so young. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2037- 96

Gramercy Cellars

It is my pleasure to share one of the outstanding Walla Walla producers that is also a great location to visit. Gramercy Cellars was founded by winemaker and master sommelier, Greg Harrington, MS, as he crafts both Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, and sources from some of the top vineyards in the state. He and Gramercy partner Brandon Moss also makes some of the best Rose in the Pacific Northwest as their Rose wines have consistently been towards the top of my Pacific Northwest Rose Report over the past few years.

It is remarkable that Harrington incredibly passed the master sommelier exam at the age of 26. Partner and co-winemaker, Brandon Moss, shares Greg’s focus on prime fruit and minimal intervention, showcasing the typicity of the individual varietal. Regardless of vintages, I am highly impressed with the range of wines that gramercy produces.

I love the new Gramercy releases. Do not miss out on the 2022 Gramercy Cellars Rose (OB, 93) which is one f the great Rose wines that I have tasted this year. The wine shows insane texture with pure red fruits. Learn more about these amazing wines at gramercycellars.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Gramercy Cellars and the superstar winemaking team of Greg Harrington, MS and Brandon Moss.

2022 Gramercy Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Rose- One of the outstanding Rose wines made in the Pacific Northwest, this cooler vintage version from 20022 is sourced from this great site in the Yakima Valley. A blend of mostly Cinsault (50%) with equal parts Syrah and Grenache, this can benefit from thirty minutes of air. Once aroused you are greeted to pink bubblegum aromatics that mingle well with wet stone, Enoki mushroom and shades of red cherry candy. The palate is very fresh, lithe and soft with a seamless texture. The bright underlying acidity makes this particularly difficult to resist even right now, as this will easily cellar for another five to seven years, picking up earthy tones as it ages gracefully. Drink 2023-2029- 93

2022 Gramercy Cellars Picpoul- The soft and bright 2022 Picpoul offers really nice flavor range with a silky mouthfeel. Kiwi, gooseberry and salted green melon flavors all marvelously combine on the palate. Enjoy this over the next few years while the bright minerality remains intact. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Gramercy ‘The Third Man’ Grenache- This edition of ‘The Third Man’ has 21% Syrah blended in with just a dash of Mourvèdre. Very pure red fruits greet you with blood orange zest, smoked brisket and shades of white pepper on the palate. Nicely textured, with good length, enjoy this very clean and well-balanced Grenache now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Lagniappe Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah- Smoky and savory, the 2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Lagniappe Red Willow Vineyard’ Syrah is a brilliant effort in this slightly cooler vintage. Once on the nose this takes on white pepper dusted bacon and cigar box notes that combine with suggestions of creosote, and boysenberry preserves. The palate is soft and inviting with seriously good flavor range and a silky texture. If you don’t love this wine then you won’t love Washington Syrah. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2019 Gramercy Cellars ‘Forgotten Hills Vineyard’ Syrah- Coming from this site in the Walla Walla Valley, the ‘Forgotten Hills Vineyard’ is set at the base of the Blue Mountains and is a stony site with copious broken basalt. Wet stone, iodine and wild blackberry tones combine on the nose with peat moss accents. The palate is plush and soft with a silky texture. This shows incredible refinement once on the mouth, as it comes across quite weightless, with wonderful length and flavor range — from tart red fruits and stony elements to citrus and pine needles. A very Pinotesque Syrah from the Walla Walla Valley, this will surely gratify somms looking for a literal cornucopia of food pairings. Drink 2023-2035- 94

Interview with Kate Derby, New Winemaker at Spring Valley Vineyards

Today we present my exclusive interview with Kate Derby, new head winemaker at Spring Valley Vineyards. She has been studying under former winemaker Serge Laville who made amazing wines for many years. Kate is from an incredible legacy, as her great-great-great grandparents homesteaded in Walla Walla in the late 1800’s as wheat farmers. The farm was kept in the family for four generations before being sold to Chateau Ste. Michelle. I can’t wait to share her story in wine and here is my interview with winemaker Kate Derby.

OB: How did you decide to get into winemaking?

KD: It was an evolution of learning the whole business. Working in the tasting room and representing the brand across the country, I would talk about our winemaking process and grape growing philosophy but had never “gotten my hands dirty. The opportunity came up in 2011 when our winemaker, Serge Laville, needed help at the winery and I jumped right in and have loved it ever since! One of my favorite things about winemaking is that every vintage is different. You are thrown a new curve ball every year and we get to work together with our team and create wines that capture the year and the place!

OB: Can you share a bit about your family history in Walla Walla? What is it like being the granddaughter of Dean and Shari Corkrum Derby?

KD: My great-great-great grandparents homesteaded in Walla Walla in the late 1800’s as wheat farmers, which we still grow a bit of. My family had managed to keep the farm in the family for 4 generations when my grandparents asked themselves what else can they add to the farm to keep it in the family for future generations. There were a few vineyards around the Walla Walla Valley so Papa said, “let’s try to grow grapes!” We installed a well in 1990, acquired water rights, and in 1993 planted our first 2 acres.

Today, we primarily grow grapes on 112 acres, but my family member’s legacy are still represented on our wine labels. I love going through our portfolio and telling people not only about the wine, but the person on the label. It’s really interesting how the wine that person’s label is on, in one way or another, really reflect their personalities. I love this connection. It feels like a sign that we are doing the right thing and being good stewards of the land.

OB: What have you learned from Washington legendary winemaker Serge Laville? 

KD: Serge would always say he learned “Washington winemaking” from my Uncle Devin, who really tied our wines back to the land – and I feel that is what helps keep Spring Valley special.

My first vintage was 2011, the coldest one we have seen. My 5th vintage was 2015, the warmest we have seen! In working alongside Serge during those very challenging vintages, I was able to learn very quickly how a winemaker adapts and pivots. At the end of the day, our goal is to take amazing grapes, provide limited intervention, get them in a bottle, and share the story of the land and the harvest.

OB: What are some of your favorite Spring Valley Vineyards wines and vintages?

KD: Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc – 2007, 2016, 2017. I have a lot to say about the Cabernet Franc we grow at our estate vineyards. This bottle of wine is the epitome of what Spring Valley is. It shows the tenacity, the strength, the heartiness, and the earth of our land, while giving the perfect balance of structure and elegance.

I also have a special place in my heart for our 2004 vintage, especially for the Derby Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is beautiful and it is a wonderful connection to some of the last fruit that my Uncle Devin brought in!

OB: Can you talk about the style of wine that you want to create at Spring Valley Vineyards? 

KD: The style of Spring Valley wines are determined by what we have in our estate vineyards. We respect the land, preserving what it gives us each vintage. I plan to continue working with the natural strengths of our estate vineyards to showcase Spring Valley’s distinct terroir.

I would love to explore ways to, without losing any structure or depth, alter the mid pallet for a seamless transition to the finish.  There is an underlying characteristic in Spring Valley wines that leaves you with a dusty, straw, earthy undertone, which comes from wheat fields that were planted before the grapes. Another element I have noticed is a consistent characteristic of velvety, creamy, almost rose pedal flavor and texture, which I believe can be captured and coined as another descriptor that makes all of Spring Valley wines unique!

I will go out on a limb and stand by it forever. I believe wine is an emotion, a feeling. It’s not only a science, it is an art, and ultimately a feeling. I want to create wine that is seamless from start to finish – with a soft and welcoming entrance, rounded and textured mid pallet, and flowing finish that will leave you with a core memory. Spring Valley wines should leave the consumer with a connection to the people they are with, the stories that are being told, and the memory of the wine they were drinking.

Time & Direction

It was a joy being the first wine critic to write about the Time & Direction wines, which was founded several years back by the talented Steve Wells. Steve has a great story in wine, and began his wine education while waiting tables in New York City. Inspired by the world of wine Steve impressively passed both the Introductory and Certified Sommelier certifications through the the Court of Master Sommeliers within months of each other. Years later after chatting with Ron Coleman of Tamarack Cellars, Steve learned about the Center for Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College.

He made a huge move by coming from New York City to Walla Walla to attend the wine study program. He worked in the tasting room and cellar at Gramercy Cellars and learned about production and the wine business. After two productive years at Gramercy Steve then began working under eminent Washington winemaker, Aryn Morell, and helped in crafting 60 different wines for 6 different clients. Aryn allowed Steve to make his own wines at his production facility, and Time & Direction was born.

Wells crafts his wines from a range of sites including some great Royal Slope Vineyards. He has been making a world-class Rose wine for several years now. I love the 2022 Time & Direction ‘Thunderstone Vineyard’ Rose (OB, 92) which is made from Grenache grapes and comes off highly nuanced with a soft texture.Learn more about Time & Direction at https://timeanddirectionwines.com Here are the great new wines by Time & Direction. 

2022 Time & Direction ‘Fretboard’ Viognier- The 2020 ‘Fretboard’ comes form the Corfu Crossing Vineyard in the Royal Slope AVA. It is very difficult to put down once opened with its ripe green melon, kiwi, and starfruit tones on the palate, with a smooth texture and bright acidity. Enjoy now while the beautiful tension remains intact. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2022 Time & Direction ‘Thunderstone Vineyard’ Rose- Coming from the Royal Slope AVA, this 100% Grenache Rose offers a beautiful light pink hue in the glass. The sense of texture here is really beautiful, as very pure red fruits combine with white rose water and shades of orange rind on the palate. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2022 Time & Direction ‘121 Gigawatts’ White Wine- This outstanding blend comes from the Les Collines Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. This displays a lovely astringency and smooth texture once on the mouth. Pink grapefruit flavors alongside white peach and shades of green apple all combine on the palate. Drink 2023-2028- 92

MTR Productions

We have a very special wine to share today. MTR productions is a very special wine produced by Matt Reynvaan. For years I have admired this wine which comes from their ‘In The Rocks Vineyard’ in the Walla Walla Rocks AVA.  This has been a knockout wine since their first release with the 2012 vintage. This edition comes from the near perfect 2018 vintage — a warm year that saw few heat spikes and incredible conditions in The Rocks District.

The 2018 ‘Memory Found’ is up there with the top bottlings of this wine that I have tasted. This is a round and generous wine that will need a lot of air when opened. The 100% was aged in French oak and 600L oak puncheons and then saw 36 months of bottle age. II think that you will be blown away with the elegance, texture and flavor range here. Enjoy this beauty over several hours and watch it evolve! Learn more about this beautiful wine at http://www.mtr-productions.com Here is my review of the 2018 MTR Productions 'Memory Found' Syrah. 

2018  MTR Productions ‘Memory Found’ Syrah- The 2018 MTR Productions ‘Memory Found’ Syrah is a world-class wine that is one of the great wines produced this outstanding vintage. Needing an hour in the decanter, this slowly unveils layers of green peppercorns and bacon fat alongside boysenberry and tar notes that all combine in the glass. The palate is soft and refined with incredible elegance. Nori, oyster sauce and beef drippings combine with cigar ash and shades of huckleberry all combine beautifully on the palate. Very seamless, as this glides throughout the drinking experience, the 2020 ‘Memory Found’ will live on for a decade or more.  Give this an hour of air and watch this stunner evolve. Drink 2023-2033- 97

Brittan Vineyards

Brittan Vineyards

For many years I have admired the wines by Robert Brittan, former winemaker at Stags’ Leap Winery in Napa. Robert is a graduate of the UC Davis Viticulture and Enology program and founded Brittan Vineyards in 2004, acquiring a 128-acre hillside property with soils that are a mixture of glacial deposits and volcanic material, with a predominant presence of broken basalt.

I love terroir in the glass and this stony material brings out wonderful rocky tones in the wines that he makes, making them truly novel to the region. In addition to the Pinot Noir, Robert has 4 acres of Chardonnay and 1.5 acres of Syrah have been planted. In addition to his own wines, Robert serves as the winemaker for several other brands, including Bacus Vineyards, de Lancellotti Family Vineyards, Fairsing Vineyard and Winderlea Vineyard & Winery.

I adored the new 2021 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) which shows seriously good richness and stony character. I am not enamored by Willamette Valley Syrah by any means but this new 2018 Brittan ‘Estate’ Syrah (OB, 93) is up there with the finest that I have ever tasted from the valley. This is not lean and herbal but has great stuffing and varietal character, with a stony essence. Finally, the coup de gras in their lineup is one of the outstanding wines from Oregon that I have tasted all year. The 2016 Brittan Vineyards ‘Puncheon’ Pinot Noir (OB, 96) is a wine that was aged significantly in barrel. It is round, generous and utterly fabulous with its seamless texture and marvelous weight and length. Learn more about the great wines of Brittan Vineyards at http://www.brittanvineyards.com Here are the brilliant releases by Brittan Vineyards.  

2021 Brittan Vineyards ‘Estate’ Chardonnay- The outstanding 2021 Brittan Vineyards Chardonnay comes from their estate vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. This comes off wonderfully stony with wet rock character alongside yellow plum, mango and shades of Pink Lady apple on the palate. Really good now, showing good length, weight and underlying tension, enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2018 Brittan Vineyads ‘Estate’ Syrah- This is not your typical Syrah from Oregon, as this was sourced from a warm vintage in the Willamette Valley.  Showing a dark core, this reveals a dusting of white pepper alongside brisket, dark cherry and shades of licorice on the nose. The palate is fresh and fragrant with a soft mouthfeel and loads of dark fruits with bright acidity and stony character. This is one of the great Willamette Valley Syrahs I have ever tasted. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2016 Brittan Vineyards ‘Puncheon’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Puncheon’ is a single barrel bottling made from Robert Britain’s Estate Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. It is one of the great Pinot Noirs that I have tasted in the past year out of Oregon. The nose comes off sensationally well with red currants, tobacco leaf, freshly tilled rocky soils and shades of cardamom. The palate is silky and downright ethereal with serious length and a finish that just won’t quit. This wonderfully displays the rocky profile of this site, with salty undertones an an ebullient core of bright and tart red fruits. A world-class wine, enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 96

J Vineyards

One of the outstanding bubbles houses in California, J Vineyards was founded by one of the pioneering women in wine, Judy Jordan. It is quite remarkable that Jordan launched J all the way back in 1986, when she was 26 years of age. Jordan studied geology at Stanford and her father, Tom Jordan, founder of Jordan Vineyards, wanted to help her launch her own brand. The wines became marvelously successful as there were few premium bubbles houses at the time and the wine also offered considerable value at their entry level position.

I fondly recall visiting J Vineyards roughly 20 years ago and they had used a room towards the back of the facility as a very glamorous, club-like experience to taste wine. This was quite remarkable at the time and it shows what kind of innovation that Jordan created. In her early 50s, in 2015 Jordan decided to embark on a new adventure and she sold J Vineyards to Gallo. Today the winery remains an incredibly popular wine tasting location and the wines have been consistently great.

Tasting through the J wines I was very impressed with the entry level wine, the NV J Vineyards ‘Cuvee 20’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 90) which has lovey finesse and weight and offers really nice value at under 40 dollars. I love the new 2018 J Vineyards ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 93) which shows plenty of weight and beautiful underlying tension. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.jwine.com/ and here are the outstanding new wines by J Vineyards.

NV J Vineyards ‘Cuvee 20’ Sparkling Wine- The NV ‘Cuvee 20’ comes from the Russian River Valley and blends 51% Chardonnay, and 41% Pinot Noir, with 8% Pinot Meunier. It is very round and generous on the palate with ripe red raspberry and melon fruits that combine with citrus blossom water on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2018 J Vineyards ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine- The 2018 ‘Blanc de Noirs’ is really thriving now at the five year mark. 100% Pinot Noir, his delivers lovely weight on the palate with shades of quince, Yakima cherry, white peach and ginger, with salty accents. The refined bubbles and silky mousse both awaken the senses, as this is marching on nicely right now. Enjoy over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2016 J Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine- The outstanding 2016 J Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine spent roughly 5 years on the less before disgorgement. This comes off wonderfully yeasty with sourdough bread notes that combine with nectarine, starfruit and suggestions of marzipan on the palate. Showing good underlying richness and finesse, this is beautiful stuff to enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 93