Wine Pairings For Persian Cuisine

I recently had the great opportunity to indulge in a fantastic dinner, hosted by friends. The Persian couple created a potluck in which individuals brought their own Persian dishes to share. Little has been written on wine pairings for Persian food. However, eminent Persian chef, Najmieh Batmanglij , has written four Persian cookbooks and also wrote a book discussing the history of winemaking in Persia (http://www.najmieh.com/cookbooks/book-reviews/from-persia-to-napa-wine-at-the-persian-table/) and modern wine pairings for classic Persian dishes. With our Persian Potluck I wanted to find great wine pairings for famous Persian dishes.

Now for a brief history lesson -- drinking wine is currently illegal in Iran, despite Iran being one of the birthplaces of wine. The city of Shiraz in Iran once was one of the world centers for wine but now sadly is filled with many unattended grape vines. Shiraz is known as the city of poets, wine, literature, and flowers. The city was perfectly primed for growing grapes, being at a high elevation, more than 1500 meters, which led to some excellent growing conditions. The Shirazi wine produced was white, available in both dry and sweet varieties.

Shirazi wine has nothing to do with the Shiraz grape. Unlike the white Shirazi wine, the Shiraz, or Syrah grape makes some of the darkest wine around. The Shiraz grape has French – not Persian – ancestry. Shirazi wine had such a strong reputation that it even received a British seal of approval in the 9th century. While the post-Iranian revolution rules disallows any wine consumption, Shirazi grapes can still be consumed both fresh and as raisins. So while we did not have any Shirazi grapes at our gathering, there were many dishes that seemed to pair well with the aromatic whites that were once grown in Shiraz. For instance, a number of dishes need a higher acidity aromatic white to cut through the food. For instance, the dish Khoresh Karafs, a celery stew, paired beautifully with the 2014 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc (WWB, 90). This combined the citrus and grassy components of the wine and dishes. Another nice pairing was the Olovieh Salad, a chicken and potato salad with a rich mayonnaise type sauce. The wine pairing was the 2013 Etude Chardonnay (WWB, 92), a wine that had nice richness and butter components to connect with the dense sauce of the dish but didn’t overpower the dish, as the wine has strong mineral streak. Finally, probably the most difficult challenge of all was the Fesenjoon, a pomegranate stew made with chicken. This was a rich and thick sauce that needed something to compliment the flavors. I considered many options but ended up pairing the 2013 Stoller Estate Pinot Noir (WWB, 90), a wine that has tremendous balance but also has nice earthy characteristics with some pomegranate and red cherry flavors that matched the flavor profiles of the Fesenjoon. That one turned out to be hugely challenging but worked better than anticipated. Look for these wines at wine shops such as Total Wines or BevMo.

Here are my wine pairings for these tricky dishes. Be sure to try them out during this busy holiday season. Be sure to let me know what you think about the pairings!

Shirazi Salad:

2014 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91)

Alternate pairing: 2014 Poet’s Leap Riesling (WWB, 93)

The 2014 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc is a rich and intense white with a strong mineral structure. Due to the high acidity of the Shirazi salad, you want a wine that also matches the high acidity. New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs fit the bill here. A second choice would be the 2014 Poet’s Leap Riesling by Longshadows, one of the premier producers of Washington wine. The 2014 Poet’s Leap also has a wonderful acid structure and is only slightly sweet. That touch of sweetness will not detract from this astringent dish, but adds to it, with flavors of pear and red delicious apple that work well with the salad. The structure and minerality of these wine selections are outstanding and compliment this refreshing salad well.

Ghormeh Sabzi:

2012 E’ Guigal Cotes du Rhone (WWB, 90) or 2012 Delas Cotes du Rhone (WWB, 89)

The idea behind this wine is I wanted to utilize some better, more fruit driven vintages in the Cotes du Rhone, which would still also provide earthy and mineral characteristics of the wine, as the dish itself has earthy and spice components. While 2013 was not the best vintage in this area, 2012 was a richer vintage and is recommended. The Cotes du Rhone region is known for its Provençale herb profile, which I thought would pair nicely to this herbaceous dish. These recommended producers will give you a lot of bang for the buck. I have had more than 5 previous vintages of E Guigal Cotes du Rhone in the past and they have all impressed for the price.

Kotlet:

2012 Januik Cabernet (WWB, 91) or 2012 Novelty Hill Cabernet (WWB, 91)

Mike Januik crafts both of these Cabernets and was former winemaker at Chateau St. Michelle before starting his own winery. He is a superstar winemaker that makes wines of tremendous value. The reasoning behind this pairing is the Cabernet is a great pairing for a fatty style meat. These particular Washington Cabernets have a wonderful acid structure that will cut nicely through the fat of the Cotlet. There is also earthy and herbaceous tones to these wines are they have nice fruit but are far from purely fruit driven Cabernets. There is a nice spice and herb component to the Cotlet with the Tumeric and Advieh spices, so this balanced Cabernet will connect with that nicely.

Tahcheen:

2013 Columbia Crest H3 Chardonnay (WWB, 90)

Alternate pairing, 2013 Darioush Chardonnay (WWB, 92)

The 2013 Columbia Crest H3 Chardonnay is one of the world’s best value white wines. It easily could be price twice what it retails for. The wine has a wonderful creamy texture and minerality that makes it balance the Tahcheen nicely. The idea is you don’t want something that will overpower the saffron and yoghurt components of this dish. The creamy connection between food and wine and the classic pairing of Chardonnay and chicken seems to work nicely. Some Chardonnays can be heavy and too extracted, or if their balance of oak is too much, then you will not be able to fully enjoy the saffron components of this dish. The H3 Chardonnay has nice fruit and oak, but not too much to overpower the saffron. Finally, Darioush, founded and currently owned by a Persian businessman, is known for making some of the best Chardonnay in Napa Valley. This is a style of Chard that is mineral driven, food friendly but still has richness to stand alone. The structure of this vibrant wine is superb, making it a lovely Persian compliment to the Tasheen. While the price point of the Darioush Chardonnay is considerably higher than the H3 Chardonnay, the Darioush is a perfect wine for a special occasion.

Khoresh Karafs:

2014 Chateau St. Michelle 'Horse Heaven Hills Vineyard' Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 90)

Alternate pairing: 2014 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc (WWB, 90)

Here you have the celery stew dish that makes this a perplexing pairing for most sommeliers. The earthiness of this dish necessitates a wine that has some earthy elements. The 2014 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Horse Heaven Hills Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc has a wonderful minerality and a cut grass element that combines some nice citrus elements and high acid structure and citrus components that cuts through the richness of the stew. One of the best values in white wine out there is the 2014 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc. This is a very versatile wine that has a rich tropical fruit flavor profile but also has secondary flavors of cut grass and jalapeno pepper. The structure of this wine is superb, making it a nice pairing alongside the Khoresh Karafs.

Loobia Polo:

2012 Chateau Beaucastel ‘Cadoulet du Beaucastel’ (WWB, 90)

Alternate pairing: 2012 Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone (WWB, 90)

The 2012 ‘Cadoulet du Beaucastel’ comes from one of the most famous wineries in Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateau Beaucastel. There is a lovely earthy and terroir driven side to this wine that makes it a great choice for the herbs in the dish. This wine is balanced and has excellent structure and rich fruit. The Loobia Polo has a beef component that makes it need a wine that has some stuffing but the dish is also delicate, so too much fruit and the dish will not be well-complimented. This becomes a complicated pairing because you want a wine to connect with the saffron and rice flavors, and not overpower them. The 2012 vintage in the Cotes du Rhone produced some impressive and fruit driven wines. The 2012 Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone delivers some serious fruit with a lovely acid structure that cuts through the fat of the beef. It is also a wonderful pairing and does not break the bank, weighing in at around 20 dollars.

Olovieh Salad:

2013 Etude ‘Estate’ Chardonnay (WWB, 92);

Alternate pairing: 2014 Woodward Canyon Chardonnay (WWB, 93).  

Due to the richness of this dish and the components of chicken and potato, you need a white wine that is rich. When you add the mayonnaise to the salad, this makes the dish even richer. The Etude Chardonnay is a rich and powerful wine that will connect to the richness of the salad. There are also citrus elements in the wine that complement the salad well. Finally, the structure and acidity of the wine is marvelous and will cut through the fatty mayonnaise components of the dish. The alternate pairing comes from Woodward Canyon, who has been crafting some of the best Washington Chardonnay for decades. The 2014 Woodward Canyon Chardonnay comes from a warm vintage. This wine has gobs of ripe fruit to the wine, including pear and golden delicious apple flavors, alongside buttery components. Woodward brings a wonderful minerality and structure to this wine that will compliment, rather than overpower the Olovieh salad.

Kashk Bademjoon:

2013 DeLille Cellars ‘Chaleur Estate Blanc’ (WWB, 95)

Alternate pairing: 2013 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 92); 2014 Groth Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91).

This is absolutely one of my favorite Persian dishes and is nearly an impossible dish to pair, so I am going to go with some guesswork here. Merry Edwards is known for making some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in North America. Similarly, DeLille Cellars makes some of the best Bordeaux style white wine in the country. If you don’t want to pay their $45.00 price tags, then consider the 2014 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc ($12.00). Kashk Bademjoon is one of my favorite Persian dishes. The richness and flavors of the eggplant, combined with the Persian spice flavors are impossible to resist. The pairing with this rich dish is a wine that can cut through the acid, which is where the Sauvignon Blanc comes in. While Chardonnay could possibly work as well, Sauvignon Blanc tends to have a higher minerality. The 2013 DeLille Cellars is one of my top domestic wines for this year. The wine is an absolute stunner, made of 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Semillon. It has aromas of lemongrass and cantaloupe with flavors of Meyer lemon, cantaloupe, butter lemon lime flavors and incredible balance. The smooth components of the wine as well as the buttery components really connect with the richness of the wine, while having the acid structure to stand up to the richness of the Bademjoon. Groth makes an excellent Sauvignon Blanc. I recently had the chance to review their portfolio of wines and the 2014 Groth Sauvignon Blanc is a lovely and layered blend of 91% Sav Blanc and 9% Semillon. The Semillon component of the wine give it a creamier texture and make it less sharp, so Fume Blanc works nicely with this pairing. Many of the classic pairings for Mediterranean style food that involve eggplant are higher acid wines. Sauvignon Blanc definitely fits the bill there, so try this pairing out.

Fesenjoon:

Pairing: 2013 Stoller ‘Estate’ Oregon Pinot Noir (WWB, 90)

Alternate pairing: 2013 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93).

I wanted to choose something that will connect with the pomegranate aspect of this dish. The dish is heavy and rich, so you need a higher acid wine to cut through the richness of the dish. Pinot Noir is a high acid red wine that pairs nicely with the chicken and does not overpower the dish. Oregon Pinots are known for their Burgundian or lighter, more restrained, style. They have fruit components but pair beautifully with a variety of foods due to their balance and structure. The 2013 Stoller Pinot Noir is a balanced wine that has nice fruit and mineral components. This pairing worked beautifully. The alternate pairing is the 2013 Argyle ‘Nuthouse’ Pinot Noir. While this commands a higher price point, the wine is elegant, rich and has a wonderful minerality that pairs beautifully with the Fesenjoon. This wine also has some pomegranate components in the fruit structure that will pair nicely with the Persian dish.

Quinta do Crasto

I don't have the opportunity to write about the great wines of Portugal very often, but I wanted to diversify from the United States on this one. One of the most famed properties in the Duoro region of Portugal is Quinta Do Crasto. Crasto has roots from the 1600s and has received more recent acclaim for their dry wines out of Duoro. As one of the biggest names in dry Portugese wines, they have helped establish Portugal as one of the major world players in rich and balanced red wines. They have achieved some remarkably high scores from some major publications and after sampling their new releases, the scores make sense.
I recently had the opportunity to try some of the excellent selections from Quinta Do Crasto. One of the most remarkable things that Crasto does is create incredible wines that are priced below market. For instance, their 2012 Flor Do Crasto impressed with its rich flavors and balance that drinks wonderfully straight out of the bottle. The most impressive release was their 2012 Duoro Reserva, which is a blend of 20-30 varietals from 70+ year old vines. I was first introduced to this wine at a large tasting event in Las Vegas this year, as I sampled the 2011 version which has received serious acclaim. While the 2011 needed a lot of time and was somewhat shut down at the time of tasting, the 2012 was quite different. The 2012 was a monster that is reminiscent of a wonderful Left Bank Bordeaux and had wonderful richness, finesse and terroir. The winemaking on this project is absolutely exquisite, as I can’t imagine how difficult it must be to blend 20-30 varietals into a high end bottling. Hats off to the Crasto winemaking team in this effort. I think the 2012 Reserva would be the Washington equivalent of the new vintage (2012) Col Solare. For those who love rich and terroir driven bottlings, the Reserva is right up your alley. These wines are somewhat difficult to find in the Northwest, but there are some specialty wine shops that carry them like Total Wines and Esquin in Seattle. Here are the new fantastic releases from Quinta Do Crasto. Check them out at www.quintadocrasto.pt ‪#‎quintadocrasto‬

2012 Quinta Do Crasto ‘Flor Do Crasto’- This rich and impressive effort has a dense core which leads to aromas of violets, blackberry preseves, and blueberry. There are flavors of smoke, mocha, blueberry pie and black cherry. This is just fantastic right out of the bottle and is approachable young. A wonderful value out of Duoro. Drink 2015-2022- 90

2013 Quinta Do Crasto Duoro ‘Superior’- This dense colored wine has aromas of smoke, violets, crème de cassis and oak. The palate brings flavors of blueberry compote, anise, violets and has nice density. The minerality and finish are outstanding. This wine improves after an hour of aeration. Drink 2015-2027- 92

2011 Quinta Do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port- This new release port comes from a declared vintage. I think it might be hard to distinguish this from some house’s vintage port bottlings. The wine has aromas remisniscent of creosote, anise, cherry cough syrup and tar. This leads to rich and viscous flavors of dark chocolate, blackberry cobbler, Turkish coffee and black cherry. There is wonderful concentraton here as this offers serious value. Drink 2015-2025- 91

2012 Quinta Do Crasto Duoro 'Reserva'- This famed property dates back to 1615, more than 100 years before Duoro became a declared region. The Roquette family assumed ownership of the property in 1981 and have worked hard to expand their vineyard holdings. This blend was aged 18 months in 85% French oak prior to bottling and is a blend of 20-30 varietals. It begins with aromas reminiscent of black cherry, sandalwood, black olive and anise. There are flavors of loganberry, crème de cassis, black olive, black cherry and Turkish coffee. This Bordelaise style red absolutely a delight to sip and savor. The richness and viscosity is there and this blend is wonderful right out of the bottle, not needing any aeration. Drink 2015-2030- 94

Somm Focus on with Christopher Chan, Advanced Sommelier, co-founder of Coral Wines and Host of AM 570 KVI’s Happy Hour Radio

Christopher Chan is an Advanced Sommelier (Level 3) through the Master Court of Sommeliers. To give you an idea of how difficult it is to pass the Level 3 sommelier exam right now, recent stats have showed that typically under 20% of applicants pass the exam. Chan has extensive history working in the food and beverage industry, including previously working at Chandler’s Crabhouse and being the director of wine and spirits for the Ranier Club until 2013. Chan hosts a radio show, Happy Hour Radio, on AM radio 570 KVI (www.happyhourradio.net) each week that discusses new topics in the beverage industry. Happy Hour Radio airs on KVI from 6-7 each Saturday, so definitely check it out. He has hosted wine powers like Charles Smith and even Krug Champagne.
Chan has been hosting the Seattle Wine Awards and even launched Coral Wines, a winery that focuses on producing Provence style Rose, with a business partner, Peggy Reddy. With Coral, Chan uses Yakima Valley and Red Mountain fruit in producing food friendly wines that offer good value. Chan was recently able to share his wealth of knowledge of the wine industry with Washington Wine Blog. Here is my interview with Christopher Chan, Advanced Sommelier.

WWB: Can you talk about your background as a sommelier?

CC: My parents are very big into wine – so I was exposed as early as 12 years old. I took French in High School and had the chance to visit Burgundy when I was 18 with the family…it was then that I found my love for French Food, French Girls and French Wine. My first job was server assistant at the (then new) Alexis Hotel and having access to great food, international wine and of course tip$ launched my career in hospitality. I’ve since been working in several top spots including the City Club of WA DC, Columbia Tower Club, Casa U-Betcha, Chandler’s Crab House, Triples and finally the Director of Wine & Spirits at the Rainier Club since 1997 – 2013.

WWB: What were some of your first jobs in the food and beverage industry?

CC: I washed dishes when I was 15 years old, but was “let-go” and vowed never to wash dishes again (vow was broken because many times when the place was “in the weeds”) but moved to the Front of the House positions. (See #1)

WWB: You put on the Seattle wine awards each year. Can you talk about some of the big winners this year and some of your favorite wines that you've samples this year?

CC: The Seattle Wine Awards was first held in 1996 and we have just celebrated our 10th Annual wine precognition program. It is and has been by far the largest and most comprehensive wine evaluation in the state and I’m honored to have such fantastic support from our industry. I’m always intrigued by how many new wineries do well and am pleased to see the continued level of high-quality wines from many of the wineries pre-1999. Of course, I’m proud of our methodology and tasting panel members who make the SWA a world-class collection of experience and expertise. I actually noticed a jump in quality starting with the 2010 results with more Gold & Double Gold award recipients each year. It makes sense as the level of interest, passion, professionals, dedication, education, cognoscente and academic illuminati has bolstered and propelled our viticulture and vinification knowledge exponentially which has in turn resulted in the “rising of all boats”. Plus our wine & sommelier community has been generous with knowledge and support from day one making the dissemination of critical information free-flowing.

WWB: You're the founder of Coral Wines. Can you talk about your winemaking style, fruit and structure of the wines, and some of the vineyards that you use for your wines?

CC: Coral Wines was born on the patio porch of our family’s Walla Walla estate in 2012 while sipping cold French Rosé in the heavy heat of July. I asked my-self, why can’t we (WA State) do this (make beautiful dry rosé)? Many of the then pink wines in the market were run-off from red ferments and passed off as fun summer quenchers sold cheap and never intended to be anything more. Those wines served the purpose of getting people to buy & drink pink but the quality level and integrity of the wines were as low as the price-point. I decided that if I ever got into the industry, I would dedicate myself to filling this niche and am pleased to have produced a world-class Provence style rosé with the help of my partner Peggy Reddy and Chan family. My winemaking style is a reflection of what I enjoy drinking and what my Sommelier studies has shown world-class wines to be. In this case with Pink Coral – fresh, dry, delicious, smooth. Balanced and complex. I believe we are the only WA winery to use solely Mourvedre (Blackrock Vineyard, Benton City) and Cinsault (Strand Vineyard, Naches Heights).

WWB: What were some of your biggest challenges in completing your advanced sommelier exam?

CC: I took my first ADV exam in Las Vegas and missed passing by 1.5 points in the theory section while passing Blind Tasting & Service – and after all that study and time, I was disappointed. I see the greatest challenge in getting back into the saddle and regaining your drive, determination and confidence. The next year’s exam was in Aspen, CO…and being a sea-level guy – going to 9000’ feet affected my game. My heart ran wild all week – no sleep, worn out, I passed Theory & Service but on the last day, I failed Blind Tasting. The next year was in Seattle and I was determined to pass…that was in 2011 and I once again passed Blind Tasting & Service but raced through the written exam in about 25 minutes and didn’t check my work (no pass.) Finally, coming full circle – back to Vegas I passed all three portions (and with the popularity of the Court of MS – each year’s test was more and more difficult) I am actually very happy that it took me 4 years…I was fortunate to forge many great relationships with the Master Sommeliers…I mean they saw me work my tail off four-years straight and finally succeed. It also allowed me to better mentor and support other Sommeliers here in Seattle and at the exams.

WWB: What are some of the big differences between the level 2 somm exam and the level 3 somm exam?

CC: Level 2 is Certified Sommelier meaning you’ve passed a three-part exam which includes Theory, Blind Tasting and Service. This level (like all levels in the CMS) is always being elevated in the exam expectations…but for Certified, it is the first solid step and not as demanding or critical as ADV. Many sommeliers would say the ADV level 3 exam is the toughest because you have to pass all three parts at once to pass, where in Master Exam you can keep any part you pass for 2 years and retake the parts you missed. Advanced means you know a lot of stuff…crazy kinda things about the world of wine and that you can pretty much run a beverage program / business.

WWB: You are also the host of Happy Hour radio on KVI. Can you talk about some of the most interesting guests you've had on and what you have learned by hosting the show?

CC: I had an idea for a wine radio show several years ago and a few of the cats I play hoops with worked in radio so I always bounced the idea off them. Finally, the timing was right and I was able to audition and develop the show. One of the cool things about that audition was when the General Sales manager and Producers were impressed and asked me how long I was doing radio…I had no experience until that day. The radio show is great because it allows me to connect with so many great wine, beer, spirits, bar and food professionals. Seldom in any business do we have time to just sit, talk, and listen and it’s been super-cool hearing the stories of pioneers like Tom Hedges, Greg Lill, Emile Ninaud (first Seattle wine shop owner Champions), Charles Smith, Krug Champagne, Aldo Vacca of Produtorri del Barbaresco, Wine Bible author Karen Mcneil so many others. I loved learning their initial inspirations in how they fell in love with their profession.

Figgins

A few weeks back I had the opportunity to attend the Figgins Family Winery release party for the 2012 Figgins Red Wine at Aqua by El Gaucho. This spectacular event had some of the best appetizers I’ve had in a long time. But the real star of the show was the 2012 Figgins Red Wine, made by Chris Figgins, head winemaker at Figgins but also Leonetti Cellars. I was impressed with what Figgins did in 2011 with their Red Wine (WWB, 91) but the ’11 Red Wine is not approachable now and will need time (meaning more than two years) for the fruit to integrate.
Kudos to Chris Figgins for absolutely nailing his 2012 Red Wine. The wine is a single vineyard blend that comes from the Figgins Estate Vineyard in Walla Walla. I had a chance to talk to Chris about the wine at his wine release event. This blend is a secret, as he doesn’t say the precise components. He simply states that it is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Petit Verdot from his estate vineyard. He was tremendously happy with the resultant blend and stated that the 2012 growing season was wonderful to work with, with near perfect conditions. Chris mentioned that wonderful acid structure in the wine was obtained through the balance in temperatures during the year. The 2012 Red Wine sings with wonderful dark fruit flavors and striking minerality. The 2012 releases from Figgins have been absolutely on point, whether it is the 2012 Doubleback bottlings, this wine or the 2012 Leonetti bottlings. Figgins also makes a wonderful and refreshing Kabinette style Riesling that has wonderful pear and green apple flavors and delivers with racy acidity. Chris Figgins is absolutely up there with the best winemakers in the state. Check out these fantastic wines at Figgins.com ‪#‎figgins‬ ‪#‎figginsestate‬

2012 Figgins Estate Red- This wine is sourced from the Figgins Estate vineyard and is a mystery blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. 70% was aged in few French oak (22 months), while 30% was aged in second fill French oak (also for 22 Months) prior to bottling. This wine was released in September 2015 and is showing beautifully right now. Speaking to winemaker, Chris Figgins, at the release, he mentions the purity of fruit from this fantastic vintage. This wine is considerably more open than the '11 Figgins Red upon release. The wine begins with aromas of blackberry, mocha, roasted figs and cassis There are flavors reminiscent of blackberry, mocha, smoked meats, black olive and black plum. This is a rich and open wine with a lively mouthfeel. This wine gets better and better with every sip. A tremendous effort from a great vintage. Drink 2015-2030- 94

2014 Figgins Riesling- This Kabinett style Riesling has bright aromatics of pear and golden delicious apple as well as a petrol element. The palate has flavors of green apple, cantaloupe and pear. There is a lush and impressive mouthfeel to this wine and a racy acid structure. This is a fresh and delicious style wine that would be well-suited for sushi. Drink 2015-2021. -90

Interview with Marcus Miller, Head Winemaker at Airfield Estates

Marcus Miller crafts the wines at Airfield. Marcus earned a degree from Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program, and has worked at other Washington wineries, including Canoe Ridge in Walla Walla, before being head winemaker at Airfield. The Miller family has been growing premium grapes in Washington since 1960 and one of his grandfathers was even friends with Walter Clore, who is generally known as the father of Washington wine. After many years of solely growing grapes, Airfield Estates was founded by the Millers in 2007. Since that time they have achieved some incredible success and have even started a second, less expensive label of wine called Lone Birch. Airfield expanded from roughly 2000 cases in 2007 to 20,000 cases by 2012. Despite this expansion, the quality of winemaking is evident. Here is my interview with Marcus Miller, head winemaker at Airfield Estates:

WWB: Can you talk about your background as a winemaker?

MM: I was raised on the vineyard and when I was growing up it was more the diversified farm. We had asparagus, mint, grew corn and grapes. In the 90’s, during high school and college we began planting more and more grapes and now today that is all we grow. My dad was a farmer and didn’t really bring the wine culture into our house so growing up I saw grapes as another crop and had no real sense of the culture and the industry. I wasn’t all that interested in was into business and got my bachelor’s degree in business. I went into finance and worked in Plano Texas in finance. After high school I decided to attend Principia College in Illinois and traveled away for school. I ended up getting a master’s degree in finance from University of North Texas. My dad was saying that I was his only son and wanted to know if I was interested in the 1200 acre family farm. Out of courtesy to my dad I decided to come home and I told him that was going to take six months to make my decision. I came home after grad school so it is January and was having a miserable time working with the crew pruning wine and concord grapes in sub freezing temperatures and not loving it at all. When you get out on the cold it is on the tractor and that is not my cup of tea either. At the end of January my dad sent me to the annual conference WAWGG, the association of wine grape growers. The CEO of St. Michelle, Ted Baseler, was speaking on the fact that that year the Wine Spectator had 12 of the top 100 wines as Washington wines and he was saying that we were only .3 percent of acreage in the world. Being a finance guy it was easy for me to see that this was more than a commodity crop that we were growing on my family farm and grapes in Washington had potential to be world class.
My eyes were now open to what I had at my fingertips. I still wasn’t thrilled with the vineyard life but I got to know some of the winemakers and what they were doing. This would mean that I would be artist, part chemist and part businessman as well. I would be travelling around the country and sometimes around the world. I was thinking that the wine world was way cooler than I ever thought and I saw myself starting a winery with my father in about 8 years once I had worked for 2 or 3 established winemakers and learned their secrets. My plan for 8 years of winemaking experience would turn into 15 months as my Dad saw the time to begin making wine in fall of 2005. In the New Year I took spring classes at WSU Tri Cities and quickly learned that the best program in the state was the Walla Walla community college program. They built a 6 million dollar facility and there were just ton of internship opportunities. I appreciated the intensive science component of WSU but at that time they didn’t have any lab classes and you would learn how to make wine in a book. I consider winemaking an artisanal craft and you have to learn from a master winemakers, pick their brains and harness their best practices. In 2003 the only place to get an experience like that was at the WWCC program. So I really loved the opportunity that was going to be provided there.
I left attended Walla Walla Comity College’s enology program and worked harvest at Canoe Ridge. I worked under Kendall Mix the head winemaker there. I had a great opportunity to learn from him and get my feet wet for the first time with a true harvest experience. At school, everyone I know graduated in two years but thanks to my growing up in the vineyard family and having worked internships at Columbia Crest all through college my instructor Stan Clarke allowed me to get out of the viticulture classes and all of the general prerequisites and I was able to get through the program in nine months. Fortunately I found a job right away with Tsillian Cellars and worked there for two years, first vintage being the assistant winemaker for Katie Perry and then she left to have her own winemaker. I was given the title of winemaker after that and brought my roommate Peter Devison to help make the wine in 2005. That was when my dad said the time was right and with our contracts up we could make some fruit available and we should start making wine. Halloween was my last day at Tsillian and then I started the Airfield Project and been making wine here since 2005.

WWB: Talk about the diversity of terroir with this huge estate vineyard?

MM: Talking about the diversity of the ground, most of the estate vineyard has a moderate slope facing southwest and a nice balance throughout the day on the fruit. The soil structure is fairly similar and our soil is silt loam (Warden Silt Loam) and that is the predominant soil and similar structure in most of the grapes. Our farm is almost continuous and it is large but it is a short distance from one side to the other. Our farm is alpha numerical and it is about 60 blocks but having it alpha numerical a good way to manage the vineyard blocks. Our highest elevation vineyard site is 1250 feet range and most of our vineyards are from 930-1100 and the higher it gets the soil becomes more sandy. In terms of how the terroir affects the fruit is we are one of the cooler sites in the state. Yakima tends to have some of the coolest nights in wine country which leads to great acidity in our reds and whites. Our reds and white wines probably have 10-15% more titratable acidity then the average wines from Washington State.

Flavor wise, we have great purity of fruit from varietal to varietal. This is also very distinct from vineyard to vineyard. An Airfield Pinot Gris tastes nothing like the Airfield Chard or Viognier. A lot of stone fruit from peach to pear and the Riesling has the green apple, that spectrum in flavor profiles. Tannin structure wise, tannins are there but not too heavy. Other regions like Red Mountain have more tannin than we do and our biggest wines tend to be our Merlots. That is the wine that I have to watch the tannin structure on. Obviously growing practices is another thing that makes the terroir different. I do some pretty unique stuff with vineyard management and one of the things that I do is use a product called Extend-day and that is a product that is primarily used in the orchard industry. Extend-day works by getting more light into the canopy. It has been scientifically proven that with more light intensity you see an enhancement in Anthocyanins (color) as well as tannin concentration. Just tasting berry’s in the vineyard you can notice the difference between the extend-day and non extend-day fruit. The extend-day fruit has more turgidity really popping in your mouth. I have always felt that the skins feel thicker in the extend-day fruit. The extend-day is not cheap, costing over $3000 an acre, but is felt to be well worth the investment in helping craft concentrated high end wines. Basically the concept is you are trying to get more light into the canopy to get intensity of fruit and you do that by putting this cloth like thing that is extended to the vineyard row. That bounces the sun and that sees the orientation of the leaves changing. There is so much radiating and that sunlight has three effects and the least as which you see more ripeness and higher brix but three really cool thing is the skins. You taste the berry with Extendday and the skins are thicker. What you see in the glass that is different the color will be darker and the structure is bigger and the tannins are just more color and more tannins. You can make a bigger, bolder wine by using this product and we use that on Cab, Merlot and Syrah in the estate vineyard.

WWB: What are some of the more unusual varietals that grow well in the vineyard?

MM: That all dates back to Chelan. It is 2005 and I had just got done making my second vintage and I am working with Malbec, Sangiovese and Viognier and a lot of varietals that we weren’t growing on our farm. At the time we were growing Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet. As we were headed down the road wanting to use exclusively estate fruit what I decided is we don’t know what grows best because this is all we have grown. Secondly, I am going to have to get complexity from my one vineyard sites and I am going to get that complexity from bringing the varietals together and blending. I guess my timing was right and red blends have gone crazy in the past decade and I definitely love the experimental aspect of that. I love to experiment with the varietals. Our family ended up growing all 5 Bordeaux varietals and Counties, Barbara, Dolchetto, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and all kinds of whites like Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier. We even planted Moscato and it has been really fun to try these grapes and get to know them and see what they are capable of in the Yakima Valley. I had this plan to whittle down them and there was no way that they were going to be doing well on our property. I get close to eliminating one and Coinoise didn’t ripen and didn’t produce and then 2008 and 2009 gets back to back gold in the San Francisco wine competition. As soon as I get discouraged with a varietal it does well. We haven’t really changed the landscape much and pretty much what was planted in 2006 we still have. That makes it really fun and I think out club members really enjoy these obscure varietals.

All of our varieties (27):

Bordeaux Reds (5): Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot

Rhone Reds (5): Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, Cinsault, Counoise

Sparkling Reds (2): Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier (I have never used this variety, sold to CSM)

Spanish (1): Tempranillo

Italian (3): Dolcetto, Barbera, Sangiovese

USA (1): Zinfandel (or Croatia)

Bordeaux Whites (2): Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc

Rhone Whites (3): Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne

Burgundy (1): Chardonnay

Alsace (4): Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Riesling

Aviation Series (6): Tradition blends that have been time tested from around the world

Aviator: Left Bank Bordeaux Blend

Dauntless: Right Bank Bordeaux Blend

Mustang: Rhone Blend

Spitfire: Super Tuscan

Hellcat: Tempranillo based blends with Syrah and Grenache (like what is done in Australia)

Rhone White: Lightning

Vineyard Salute (2): Non traditional blends meant to represent the flavors of the vineyard.

Bombshell red: Merlot, Syrah based with other bdx varietals and sometimes Sangiovese.

Flygirl: Pinot Gris and Viognier based blend that bring 10-20% barrel of (Viognier, Roussanne, or Chardonnay) sometimes Gewurztraminer is added.

WWB: I was hugely impressed with the level of richness and acid structure obtained in your 2013 Late Harvest Riesling. Can you talk about the winemaking for that exceptional wine?

MM: I will tell you that I can’t take a lot of credit and I think that the purity of the fruit and when it gets concentrated through the process of freezing in the vine, something magical happens. The wine that you tried and loved, I haven’t gotten a lot of huge scores but when I have it has gotten for that wine. I don’t take a lot of love to making it because you are just exhausted from this long harvest and you are putting these to press and the normal press cycle might take two days. It is a long process to try to extract that rich and intense fruit and juice inside the barriers and you have to be patient and take your time. The fermenting process for this wine is really slow and we are just watching it every day and you are just kind of waiting. There is nothing really special with how we process it but it is the fruit, our Riesling in particular, has resonated with the late harvest style. I would say that we have made three or four exceptional late harvest and I am always amazed by the reception from our customers and the press.

WWB: How did you decide to start the Lone Birch label?

MM: We started out with Airfield and been doing that since ’05 and then I think that it has been an evolution and since our first vintage in 2009. We saw an opportunity in the marketplace at a lower price point and wanted to capitalize on that. We did a red blend and a white blend originally. When we were coming up with the label, we wanted something that was not aviation themed. We didn’t want some spin off with Airfield and something that would be a standalone brand that didn’t have a lot of connection. So then to be able to sell it in the marketplace with two different distributors.

We did a red and a white and the story comes from the land of my great grandfather and this is now a 4th generation farming operation. Washington State has, the Airfield story. My brother in law came up with the Lone Birch idea. The founding father of our business, he had planted a series of Birch trees, some at his house and some at the farm, but there is one birch tree that sits at the main intersection that takes you to the farm. I have to think about the logic about planting the tree was kind of a directional side. You want to get out to us, you know you have arrived when you have gotten to the Birch tree. We didn’t have Google maps back then and growing up the Birch Tree was how you got there. I think about the brand today, you have for generation and each person is tending to these trees today. Just like the Lone Birch tree guides you to the property, we are guided by the farming legacy of our fathers. This tradition that is guiding us and now we are farming it and stewarding it. Hopefully this means leaving the land at a better place for our kids. I think about all these different aspects. If you come out Lone Birch tree is just right like it is on the label.

WWB: What are some of your favorite Washington wines and wineries?

MM: We are always trying to get better and we are changing our packaging and always tweaking our winemaking. I love how young our industry is and how vibrant it is. There are so many new people entering the wine industry right now. There are some great and strong graduates and it is a really fun time to be in the industry. Talking about wineries, we do comparative tastings and we are trying things from Washington and beyond. I have two small kids at home and going to the neighbors and tasting their wines isn’t happening a ton right now. Back in the day when I was in Walla Walla, a guy that I looked up to was Chuck Reininger, I liked his wines. Got to know Chris Figgins well, we were leaders in the state church group and Chris was a cool guy and a guy to talk to when I was getting started in the industry, so those were two men that I looked up to.

Today, being a Chateau St. Michelle grower, Chateau St. Michelle and Bob Bertheau. Our job at Airfield is to produce the best wines in Washington at every price point that we work at and what Chateau St. Michelle is able to do is just awesome. They are making some great wines. One of my favorite wines was the Tenet project. I was really impressed with that. I was sitting at the table next to Bob and each table had a bottle of Tenet and some of their other wines. I told him, this juice is killer and I shared it with everyone at my table. It was some of the inspiration that we use to do our GSM blend this year. We are really excited about what we have done and we really like our 2015 wines. My wine budget tends to be more in the moderate range. I have had Quilceda Creek Red Wine a few times and I really love Bob Betz and what he does and the textural elements that he brings with Syrahs. I am trying to assemble my team and so I have a lot of people that I look to in helping me in craft our style of winemaking. I don’t know if you have ever had Lobo Hills and the head winemaker there makes his wins at my facility. The original agreement was that he could work as my assistant winemaker and helps me make decisions. Tony has helped me.

My Wine Team:

Marcus Miller - Winemaker, 11 vintages crafting Airfield

Lori Miller - My sister, Wine Business Masters, University of Adelaide - great pallet.

Pamela Solis - Assistant Winemaker, VE Degree from Argentina, 4 vintages in Argentina, and 4 vintages in US at 3 different wineries. Started with us February 2015

Erica Orr - Consultant, UC Davis, Multiple Woodinville clients projects, comes over twice a year for blending. Is on speed dial if I ever have a question. Started with us Spring 2014.

Tony Dollar - Winemaker, Lobo Hills. Has made his wine at our facility since 2011 and has always has offered me his pallet and his help.

Not to leave any one out, three great cellar workers: Carlos, Fernando, and Juan.

This year we hired an assistant manager, Camila Solice. She is from Argentina, Mendoza. My dad passed away this last year and now I am not only winemaker but CEO of the farm and working on international distribution and I head that and the accounting office and it is just too much work. Airfield Estates is now at 40,000 cases and I needed to hire someone. I put out the application and I got 63 really qualified applicants. The three finalists that we had, we had her and the two others blend our 2014 Chardonnay. Hers was awesome and we knew that she had the knowledge and skill set but she also had the plate. She has been great to work with. We are also working with Erica Orr and she is great and she is down to earth and super cool. I don’t think I have had a bad wine that she has made. The way I look at it is get a good team together and together are going to make some pretty cool wines. I definitely bring an experimental approach.

Archery Summit

Archery Summit

Located in the Red Hills alongside neighbors Domaine Serene, Domaine Drouhin, White Rose and other Willamette Valley greats, Archery Summit has a picturesque setting and some stunning new Pinots. Started by the Pine Ridge baron Gary Andrus, this estate relies on a variety of vineyards across the valley, as well as estate fruit. The winery itself is stunning and has an absolutely gorgeous cave setting for tasting.  We were able to try the 2013 new releases from Archery in this reserve room that was recently remodeled and served as a gorgeous setting. The winery has six estate vineyards totaling 120 acres, with 5 vineyards in the red volcanic soil of the Dundee Hills AVA and 1 vineyard in the ancient sea bed of the adjacent Ribbon Ridge AVA. The vineyards are densely planted and meticulously tended to, implementing organic practices, as well as a biodynamic approach at one site. Moises Sotelo, the foreman who planted the estate vineyard in 1994, amazingly still tends to the vines. Winemaker Chris Mazepink came to the winery in 2013 and also currently serves as the general manager. Mazepink has a wealth of experience in the valley, starting at Lemelson Vineyards as assistant winemaker. He spent four years at Shea Wine Cellars before joining Benton Lane Winery as Director of Winemaking and Viticulture.

While I had not tasted at Archery for a few years, but having tried one of their 2012 releases, the most recent efforts were rich and impressive considering the vintage. There were many factors for their successes in 2013 but most notably their picking before the torrential rains served as a major factor. Overall the level of richness achieved in their wines reflected the warm summer of 2013. Their 2014 Pinot Gris offering was particularly enticing, considering the price point. That is a perfect summer wine for shellfish. The 2013 Arcus Estate was fantastic and rich, one of the best wines from 2013 that I have sampled this year. This layered and polished effort will age gracefully for decades. Similarly the Archery Summit estate has a high price point ($150.00) but is one of the best bottlings I’ve tried from the 2013 vintage. It has a silky texture and a wonderful range of fruit flavors, alongside serious terroir. You can find these expressive new release wines at archerysummit.com or Total Wines. #archerysummit

2014 Archery Summit Pinot Gris- This is sourced from the Eola Springs and Winters Hill vineyards. The Gris was whole cluster pressed before being transferred to stainless tanks. It has aromas of cut grass, cantaloupe and Bartlett pear. There are flavors of red delicious apple, Meyer lemon, and cantaloupe. This is lithe and refreshing with nice rich fruit flavors. Nice minerality that would pair beautifully with raw oysters. Drink 2015-2020- 91

 2013 Archery Summit ‘Looney Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Pinot comes from Ribbon Ridge, located roughly six miles from the winery. The Looney Vineyard is from a 19 acre property from Ed and Darlene Looney. This is known for the Willakenzie soil, a marine, loose and gravely soil. Pommard, Wadenswil and Dijon clones 777, 667 and 115 are planted at the vineyard. The wine begins with aromas reminiscent of raspberry and blackberry with mushroom and forest floor on the nose. There are flavors of cran-cherry, Tangerine rind, mushroom, and a long and lingering finish. Lovely minerality, this needs time for the fruit to integrate. Drink 2017-2030- 92

 2013 Archery Summit ‘Renegade Ridge Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This vineyard selection is a 980 case production wine. The vineyard itself is located on the right side of Archery Summit road, an 11 acre, Eastern facing vineyard. They have Dijon clones 777, 667, 14 and 115 planted there, as well as their own clone ASW2. The Pinot Noir was aged 9 months in 54% new French oak before being bottled in August 2014. The wine opens with aromas has of raspberry, cherry pie, mushroom and forest floor. There are flavors of cherry pie, raspberry, mushroom and wild blackberry. Delicious and lithe with nice stuffing. This is hard to resist right now but can improve with another year in the bottle. Drink 2016-2030- 93

 2013 Archery Summit ‘Archer's Edge’ Pinot Noir- The fruit is taken from a small, 7 acre vineyard near the estate that was planted in 2007. The wine was aged 9 months in 44% new French oak prior to bottling in August 2014. The wine utilizes Dijon clones 667, 777 and 115. The Pinot opens with aromas of roasted figs, mushroom, forest floor and red cherry. There are flavors of cherry pie, cran-raspberry, cremini mushroom and a lovely long finish. This has lovely weight on the palate. This was harvested before the torrential rain during harvest and you can tell, considering the weight. This needs time for the fruit to fully integrate. Drink 2017-2030- 93

 2013 Archery Summit ‘Archery Summit Estate’ Pinot Noir-This is the first planting here in 1991. There were preexisting vines at the vineyard that were torn down by the owner. This was also harvested before the rains of the 2013 harvest and utilizes Dijon clones 115 and 667 as well as Pommard clones. This was aged 8 months in 42% new French oak prior to being bottled in August 2014. This has aromas of oak, red cherry, nutmeg, raspberry and vanilla. There are flavors of cherry pie, mushroom, cran-raspberry, with lovely texture and weight. This is one of the best I’ve had from this vintage, as this utilizes the wonderful interplay between fruit and terroir. This is drinking nicely now but will improve with a couple of years in the bottle. Drink 2017-2030- 94

 2013 Archery Summit ‘Arcus Estate’ Pinot Noir- This comes from a 39 acre vineyard. The name of this wine translates to 'bow' in Latin. There are many microclimates to this vineyard, as there's a 400 foot elevation change in the vineyard. Some of the vines predate to 1973. Aged 19 months in French oak (50% new) prior to being bottled in August 2014. This has aromas of black truffle, red raspberry and oak. There are flavors reminiscent of cran-raspberry, Tangerine rind, Bing cherry and vanilla. This has tremendous weight and texture. Try to resist this for a few more years. Drink 2017-2030- 94

 2013 Archery Summit ‘Red Hills Estate’ Pinot Noir- This comes from a vineyard that neighbors Arcus, a 16 acre property. The wine was aged 10 months in 45% new French oak prior to being bottled in August 2014. The Pinot Noir from this estate ripens a bit later than Arcus and they lost 20% of the fruit from this estate in 2013 due to torrential rains during harvest. The wine opens with aromas of cherry pie, raspberry, vanilla and oak. There are flavors of raspberry, cran-orange, with a lovely mouthfeel and texture. Not quite the weight of the Arcus and Archery Summit Estate bottlings but lovely mouthfeel and minerality. Drink 2017-2030- 92

Horsepower Vineyards

Christophe Baron has done it again. With his talent, he seems to have a wonderful knack for boutique wine projects. Horsepower is no exception. More than 100 years ago draft horses had changed farming practices in Europe for the better. Soon after in the United States thousands of horses were working on American farms. Baron has two horses that he uses for his vineyards, named Red and Zeppo. The horses are from a famous breed that was first domesticated in ancient Egypt. Red and Zeppo help cultivate vineyards ranging from 3,555 to 4,840 vines per acre with as little as 3' x 3' spacing—planted 1 vine per stake, or “sur echalas” in French. Which is where the Sur Echalas vineyard comes into play. This vineyard is the source for the remarkably good 2012 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache. This vineyard is a 3-foot by 3-foot spacing and 4,840 vines per acre. Horsepower winery says that the 2 acre vineyard of Syrah and Grenache is the highest density planting in the Walla Walla Valley and one of the highest in North America!
Baron has been making the Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache since 2011. This past vintage he was blessed with near perfect growing conditions. The 2012 version of this wine is a knockout with beautiful aromatics and an incredible array of ripe fruit flavors alongside incredible minerality. It is the best of its kind that I have reviewed this year. Here is my review for the 2012 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache. Check out more about Horsepower at https://horsepowervineyards.com/horsepowervineyards/
Here is my review for International Wine Report: http://internationalwinereport.com/…/5042-horsepower-vineya… ‪#‎horsepowervineyards‬ ‪#‎horsepower‬

2012 Horsepower ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ Grenache- This wine comes from the esteemed ‘Sur Echalas Vineyard’ which has the highest density planting in the Walla Walla Valley. This is the second release of this wine. There are incredibly rich aromas of smoke, wet stone, tarragon, lavender and Bing cherry. The intense aromatics make you want to smell this wine for days. This leads to lush flavors of raspberry, cherry cola, essence of lavender, Mandarin orange rind and a wonderful effervescence. This is an incredible and memorable wine. The palate just glides and the finish lingers. Christophe Baron is on top of his A game. Drink 2015-2030- 97

Stags' Leap

Head winemaker at Stags' Leap, Christophe Paubert, has a compelling background in wine.

Stags’ Leap

A winery that focuses their program on Cabernet and Petite Sirah, Stags’ Leap has been one of the nation’s premier producers of Petite Sirah for more than a decade. The new releases of Petite Sirah were no exception. The 240 acre estate includes 90 acres of vineyard plantings and is located 7 miles north of Napa, on the eastern side of Stags Leap Palisades. In this area grapes have grown here continuously since the 1880s. Stags’ Leap estate has had three major family groups until the creation of a modern winery in the 1970s. The grapes rely on a volcanic and maritime influence that you can taste in the wines. The vineyards contain alluvial Bale Loams on top, with volcanic ash from eroded sediment; underneath: sandy loam laced with gravel and cobbles which have good drainage.

Winemaker Christophe Paubert, formerly from Canoe Ridge in Washington, has an extensive resume and a family background in wine. Christophe grew up just outside of Sauternes in Bordeaux, where his grandfather was a Cellar Master. He spent his childhood immersed in the culture of wine, and followed his love for wine and science to the Institut d'Înologie in Bordeaux. He graduated in 1983 and spent three years working for a negociant in Bordeaux before returning to complete a two-year graduate course in sales and marketing. He has previously worked in Chile, Reuda, Ribera del Duero, Rioja the Medoc in Bordeaux and even New Zealand. Previous wineries include Canoe Ridge and even previously at Chateau D’ Yquem in Sauternes. Paubert’s wines were impressive, particularly his Cabernet and Petite Sirah bottlings. These wines are not only rich and extracted but are balanced and terroir driven. His style of winemaking is showing the fruit character of the wines but not heavy manipulation from the winemaker. Check out their 2012 Petite Sirah release. This is a rich wine that is one of the best of its kind. The 2012 'Ne Ce Malis' Petite Sirah has a high price point ($115.00) but is the best Petite Sirah release that I’ve sampled this year. The 2012 Cabernet bottling also impresses with its rich flavors and balance. Look for these wines releases at Total Wines, as well as Wine World and Esquin in Seattle. You can also find them at http://stagsleap.com/store #stags’leap

2014 Stags' Leap Viognier- This begins with aromas of honeysuckle, banana and poached pear. There are flavors of golden delicious apple, minerals, starfruit and apricot. There is a rich mouthfeel and a slight sweetness, not in a cloying way. Delicious and lithe wine that is perfect for shellfish. Drink 2015-2020- 91

2013 Stags' Leap Chardonnay- This begins with aromas of banana, golden delicious apple and pineapple. There are flavors of pear, kumquat, Meyer lemon and minerals. This is balanced in the Napa style. Drink 2015-2020- 89

2012 Stags Leap Cabernet- There are aromas of black olive, blackberry, anise and coffee. There's lovely flavors of anise, cassis, mocha and graphite with the acid backbone that begs for another sip. This solid bottling will be a heavy steakhouse player and pairs beautifully with a juicy ribeye. Drink 2015-2028- -92 

2012 Stags' Leap 'The Investor'- This wine has rich and ripe fruit flavors of blueberry, stewed prune and pomegranate. There are flavors of blueberry compote, blackberry, mocha and mild to moderate tannins. This improves after an hour of aeration. Intriguing and rich blend that is a novel effort, I love this style of new world blend. Drink 2015-2025- 92

2012 Stags' Leap 'Ne Ce Malis' Petite Sirah-This originates from an older block in the estate that includes Grenache, Mouvedre, Carignan, Syrah and Peloursin into the 85% Petite Sirah wine. This spent 12 months in American oak (25% new). There are aromas of green peppercorn, black olive, black tea and anise. There are flavors of Turkish coffee, dark chocolate, blueberry compote, anise and cassis in a mineral driven style. Rich and viscous, this will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2016-2026- 93

2012 Stags' Leap Petite Sirah-This is a unique blend of 75% Petite Sirah, 12% Syrah, 8% Grenache, 2% both Carignane and Mouvedre with a splash of Viognier. This spent 12 months in American oak (25% new) prior to bottling. This opens with aromas of milk chocolate, roasted figs, and black pepper with coffee grounds. Leading to flavors of blueberry, anise, cassis, in this mineral driven effort. Not for the weary. Drink 2015-2025-

2012 Stags' Leap 'The Leap' Cabernet- This 100% Cabernet wine was aged 20 months in French oak barrels (50% new) prior to bottling. Winemaker Christophe Paubert selected the best of the blocks of estate Cabernet for this blend. The nose opens with aromas of milk chocolate, blackberry and anise with dried provencale herbs. There is a lovely balance and acid structure to this wine with wonderful richness indicative of this great vintage. Yielding flavors of mocha, blackberry and black olive. This is delicious and impressive. Drink 2015-2030- 93

Chateau St. Michelle

One of Washington’s most historic wineries, the story of Chateau St. Michelle starts in 1912 in which the property was owned by a lumber baron Fredrick Stimson. As the 8th bonded winery in Washington, the hiring of Andre Tchelistcheff in the 1970s as head winemaker introduced a higher grade of wines called Ste. Michelle Vintners. The chateau itself was built in 1976 and St. Michelle established themselves as having two separate production facilities for red and white wine, with reds being made at their Canoe Ridge facility and their whites being made in Woodinville.
An expansive tour takes you by the huge production facility. The grounds are so gorgeous that people travel from all corners of the world to see the winery. They even host a ton of concerts on their grounds, from everything from Gypsy Kings to Huey Lewis and the News. I was able to taste some of the limited production new release wines from St. Michelle and was very impressed. Winemaker Bob Bertheau has been at St. Michelle since 2003. He has a master’s degree in enology from UC Davis and trained under some big names in wine, including Bob Sessions at Hanzell Vineyards and David Ramey at Chalk Hill.
Bertheau partners with Dr. Ernst Loosen in their Eroica project that impresses each year. I was so enamored by their 2013 Eroica Riesling that I put it on my 2014 Top 20 domestic wines list last year. The 2013 Eroica is a bright, mineral driven and flavorful quaff that is sure to satisfy anyone who enjoys Washington Riesling. The 2013 Eroica Gold also was highly impressive with its rich fruit flavors and wonderful acidity that begs for another sip. The Artist series lineup by Bertheau has been a huge hit for many years. The beautiful labeling is a sight to be seen but it what’s inside the bottle that impresses. I was able to sample a vertical including the 2010 (WWB, 93), 2011 (WWB, 91) and 2012 (WWB, 93) vintages. The Artist series wines are special occasion wines to cellar now and savor in years to come. Check out their wines at https://www.ste-michelle.com or look for the Eroica release, as well as the Artist series wines at Costco. ‪#‎chateaustmichelle‬ ‪#‎stmichelle‬ ‪#‎wawine‬

2010 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Luxe’- The Cuvee was bottled (tirage) on 03/14/12. Secondary Fermentation in the bottle was completed about twenty weeks later. The wine was aged sur lie in the bottle for over 3 years prior to release. This delicious sparkling wine opens with aromas of toasted oak, brioche and pear. There are flavors of pear, red delicious apple and starfruit. Delicious and lithe effort with a lovely mousse. With its lovely effervescence, it is hard to believe this wine is over five years of age. Drink 2015-2022- 92

2013 Chateau St. Michelle Eroica- This is project first started in 1999 between Dr. Ernst Loosen and Chateau St. Michelle. Loosen and St. Michelle head winemaker Bob Bertheau utilized dozens of small lots, each reflecting a slight difference in character in the final blend of this warm vintage wine. 1.5% Residual sugar on this one, a Kabinette style Riesling. Lemon zest and golden delicious on the nose. Palate has great minerality. Lemon-lime flavors with red delicious, cantaloupe and slate. Outstanding effort, the best Eroica I've had in 10 years. -93

2013 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Ethos’ Chardonnay- Primarily Canoe Ridge Estate and Cold Creek vineyard fruit, the wine was 100% sur lie aged for 9 months in 100% French oak (36% new, 60% 1-year-old and 4% 2-year-old barrels). This has lovely oak aromas of toasted oak, poached pear, butter and nutmeg. There are flavors of pear, crème brûlée, golden delicious and a long and lingering finish. This is rock solid. 1800 cases produced. Drink 2015-2022- 92

2012 Chateau St. Michelle Mouvedre- This limited release and tasting room only wine wine was blended with 15% Syrah. It spent16 months in 18% New French, 18% New American and 64% Neutral oak barrels. Lovely nose of smoked meats, spicebox, leather and oak. This leads to rich flavors of black olive, blackberry, smoked meats and green bell pepper. This is an impressive release, with a strong acid backbone. 1,106 cases made. Drink 2015-2024- 92

2012 Chateau St. Michelle ‘Cold Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- Originally planted in 1973, the Cold Creek vineyard is south facing, dry and warm site. This wine opens with aromas of blueberry, blackberry and oak. There are flavors of blueberry, blackberry, prune and red cherry. Delicious and open style. Tons of this made, 13,500 cases, so this should be easy to find. Drink 2015-2024- 92

2012 Chateau St. Michelle Malbec- This is limited release Malbec. 65% of the fruit was sourced from the Canoe Ridge Estate Vineyard while 22% of the fruit was sourced from the Cold Creek Vineyard, with the remainder Indian Wells vineyard fruit. This wine opens with aromas of chocolate, white pepper, smoked meats and blackberry. There are flavors of blackberry, dark chocolate, prune and black olive. This is deep and delicious with lovely texture. Drink 2015-2025- 92

2012 Chateau St. Michelle 'Druthers' Cabernet- This is a pet project for the winemaker and comes from the Cold Creek vineyard, first planted in 1973. The wine opens with lovely aromas of milk chocolate, heavy oak and anise. There are flavors of blackberry, anise, creme de cassis and vanilla in this rich and muscular Cabernet. This is delicious right out of the bottle, not needing any aeration. Drink 2015-2025- 93

2012 Chateau St. Michelle Artist Series Meritage- The wine is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Malbec. This is primarily from Canoe Ridge Estate (72%) but is also from smaller percentages of the Cold Creek vineyard (16%), the Zephyr Ridge Vineyard (10%) and the Indian Wells Vineyard (2%). Aged for 22 months in French oak (69% new), there is a prominent oak feature to this wine but not in a detracting style. This wine opens with aromas of milk chocolate, black here and cassis alongside oak. There are flavors of blackberry, anise, coffee and milk chocolate. Lovely depth and mouthfeel. This needs another year of cellaring. Nice density to this modern style wine. Drink 2016-2029-93

2011 Chateau St. Michelle Artist Series Meritage – Primarily Cold Creek Vineyard fruit (69%), there are also smaller percentages of fruit from Horse Heaven Hills (25%) and Wahluke Slope (6%). The wine is a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Merlot 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec. It was aged 20 months in French oak (66% new) prior to bottling. This wine opens with aromas of green bell pepper, black cherry and blackberry. There are flavors of anise, blackberry, red bell pepper, black cherry as this lithe wine lacks the depth of other artist series. Impressive effort considering the coldness of the vintage. Drink 2015-2025-91

2010 Chateau St. Michelle Artist Series Meritage- This highly impressive blend is 74% Cabernet Sauvignon with 18% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. It was primarily sourced from the Cold Creek vineyard, one of Washington’s oldest vineyards, first planted in 1973. It also features Canoe Ridge vineyard fruit. This saw 20 months in 57% new French oak, with 4% new American oak. The wine opens with aromas of heavy oak and prune on the nose with spicebox and blackberry. There are flavors of blackberry, black cherry, anise and milk chocolate. This is simply delicious wine that is hard to lay down right now. Drink 2015-2024-93

 2013 Chateau St. Michelle Eroica Gold- This is sourced primarily from the Viewcrest Vineyard in the Yakima Valley (62%) as well as the 30-year-old Horse Heaven Vineyard (38%), located adjacent to the Columbia River. This semi-sweet Riesling utilizes 7.5% residual sugar. It opens with aromas of petrol, pear and wet stone with honey. There are flavors of pear, golden delicious apple, minerals and nice richness. This open and lithe wine is drinking deliciously now. Drink 2015-2021- -92

Foley-Johnson

Bill Foley and his wife, Carol Johnson Foley launched Foley-Johnson in 2012. Located in Rutherford, Foley-Johnson prides itself for making high quality Napa Cabernet. Their hospitality center is housed in an old converted redwood barn built in the 1920s. The winery produces two tiers of wines: Napa Valley and Handmade. The Napa Valley tier focuses on Bordeaux varieties from the nearly 50 acres of estate vineyards around the winery in Rutherford. Their Handmade series utilizes winemakers from other Foley estate wineries, such as Dave Lattin of Kuleto, Leslie Renaud of Lincourt, Paul Warson of Firestone, Mark Lyon of Sebastiani and Lisa Bishop Forbes of Chalk Hill.
Foley-Johnson head winemaker Brad Warner previously worked as a cellar worker for Charles Krug Winery. Three years later he moved to Robert Mondavi Winery to become their cellar foreman. During his 30 year career at Mondavi, Brad completed courses in winemaking and business management at Napa Valley College, UC Davis and Stanford University before being hired at Foley-Johnson David Ramey also works as consulting winemaker and has previously worked at Chateau Petrus and famed California estates, Dominus and Rudd. Needless to say, David Ramey is one of the premier winemakers in California.
In terms of estate vineyards, Foley-Johnson utilizes the Main Vineyard and the Peral vineyard. The Main vineyard (nearly 40 acres) is divided into 29 blocks based on soils, exposure and aspect. Until 1984, when the first vines were introduced by Bill and Lila Jaeger, the original estate was planted to plum and walnut orchards. Today the site features 14.4 acres Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.3 acres Merlot, 1.3 acres Petite Sirah, 1.7 acres Petit Verdot, 1.6 acres Cabernet Franc, 1.1 acres Malbec, 3.4 acres Sauvignon Blanc, and 1.5 acres Sauvignon Musque. The Peral vineyard is a neighboring, 10-acre estate parcel, devoted to Cabernet that is just south of the original vineyard, and offers similar soil and growing conditions. I recently had the chance to taste four wines out of the portfolio and was impressed with the Cabernet offerings. The 2012 ‘Rutherford’ bottling was a rich and opulent wine that will have a very long life. I was also particularly impressed with the 2012 Meritage, which captures the art of blending.
Here are the fantastic new releases from Foley-Johnson. Look for them online at http://www.foleyjohnsonwines.com/ ‪#‎foleyjohnson‬

2013 Foley-Johnson Sauvignon Blanc- Vines for this Sauvignon Blanc are planted in sandy soils along the Napa River at their estate vineyard in Rutherford. This wine was aged 4.5 months in 100% new French oak with no battonage prior to bottling in July 2014. This wine opens with aromas of cut grass, lychee and jalepenjo pepper. There are flavors reminiscent of pear, grapefruit and Gala apple with a wonderful minerality. A bit on the lean side, but tasty. Drink 2015-2020- 88

2012 Foley-Johnson ‘Napa’ Cabernet- This wine is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc. It was stored 19 months in French oak barrels (20% new) prior to bottling in July 2014. The wine opens with aromas of sage, anise and creme de cassis. This leads to flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cassis, and anise. This has nice weight on the mouthfeel, indicative of this superlative vintage. Drink 2015-2028- 91

2012 Foley-Johnson ‘Rutherford’ Cabernet- This Cabernet wine is sourced from two Rutherford vineyards, the the Peral Vineyard, having heavier soils and gravel and the Main Vineyard which is more loamy soil of gravel, clay and sand. It weighs in at 14.6% alcohol and is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. After 19 months of aging in French Oak barrels (35% new) the wine was bottled July 2014. This wine opens with aromas of anise, black plums, red bell pepper and cassis. There are flavors of creme de cassis, anise, black cherry, mocha and graphite. Lovely weight on the mouthfeel, this dense and delicious Cabernet that improves with an hour of aeration. Hard to resist now but this beauty for two more years. Drink 2017-2035.- 93

2012 Foley-Johnson ‘Rutherford’ Meritage- This is a blend of 68% Cabernet, 23% Merlot, 6% Petite Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. The blend was bottled in July 2014 and spent 18 months in French oak (30% new) This comes from the Foley-Johnson Estate vineyard, which is primarily loamy soil of gravel, clay and sand. The wine opens with aromas reminiscent of prune, black tea and anise. There are rich flavors of black cherry, blackberry, spice cake and creme de cassis. Lovely balance and richness on the mouthfeel. You can taste the varietals beautifully working together in this blend. Drink 2015-2028- 92

No Girls

More than 10 years ago a Frenchman, Christophe Baron, decended on a relatively unknown subregion outside of Walla Walla that is today known as ‘The Rocks.’ But the story starts at Christophe’s life, as a child, walking in his family vineyard with his father and grandfather. Christophe was the youngest of the centuries-old Champagne house, Baron Albert, and his ancestors had worked the land since 1677. As he grew older, Christophe studied viticulture in Burgundy and Champagne and was drawn to the Willamette Valley, with its closeness to the terroir driven Pinots of Burgundy. Christophe spent some time traveling the world before purchasing some land outside of Walla Walla and planting in 1997.

At the time no one had planted Syrah grapes in this Rocks region, characterized by small stones that reminded Christophe of Chateauneuf du Pape in the southern Rhone region of France. He first vineyard planted, called the Cailloux Vineyard, a10-acre plot in the stones of Milton Freewater. A year later he planted the Coccinelle Vineyard a 4.5-acre plot in which the Bionic Frog Syrah is produced from. The same year saw Christophe plant the En Cerise Vineyard which is the source for the Flying Pig and Camaspelo Bordeaux blends. Christophe continued planting vineyards in 2000, planting the En Chamberlin Vineyard, set on 10 stony acres and the source of The Widowmaker Cabernet-Sauvignon, Impulsivo Tempranillo and En Chamberlin Syrah. Finally, in 2001 the last vineyard was planted, the Armada Vineyard, which is the source for the Armada Vineyard Syrah, God Only Knows Grenache and Edith Grenache Rosé.

No Girls Winery is an offshoot of Cayuse, created by Christophe Baron and Elizabeth Bourcier, who have worked together since the first release of No Girls in 2008. The style of winemaking that is attempts to focus on the unique terroir of the La Paciencia Vineyard. The La Paciencia (patience) vineyard was planted between 2003 and 2005, near the Armada vineyard, and the first couple of vintages of wine were declassified. The name ‘No Girls’ is connected with the history of Walla Walla. Christophe purchased a building in 2002 that was a former brothel. In his new building, Christohe noticed the words ‘No Girls’ painted on the wall— and the wine label is an actual photograph.

No Girls wines are very difficult to find but recently my good friend and famous Seattle oral surgeon, Dr. Jae Hong, recently granted me and some others the opportunity to try the 2010 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Grenache. I was hugely impressed with these terroir driven examples of Rhone varietals. There is a wonderful sense of terroir with these wines as they would almost pass for a fantastic mineral driven Chateauneuf du Pape with the wine’s minerality and weight.

No Girls wines are wine club only but sometimes you can find them at specialty shops. You can also find them online at wine.com and klwines.com. Here is my review for the 2010 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Grenache:

2010 No Girls ‘La Paciencia Vineyard’ Grenache- The La Paciencia (patience) vineyard vines are tightly spaced and planted on an angle. Originally planted between 2003 and 2005, near the Armada vineyard, the first few vintages of grapes from this vineyard were declassified. This cool vintage wine opens with prototypical Walla Walla rocks aromas of wet stone, mushroom, lavender and orange peel. There are flavors of red raspberry garrigue, Bing cherry, cran-orange and provencale herbs. This mineral driven wine has exquisite texture and a finish that lingers. This is drinking in its sweet spot. Drink 2015-2028-  95

Airfield Estates

You can’t help but love the character of this place. Set in a hangar like setting, Airfield Estates is a memorable place to visit if you are in the Yakima valley. This expansive tasting room holds the strong lineup of Airfield wines. Airfield Estates uses 100% estate grown fruit.  Their vines were planted in 1968 by Don Miller and today the estate vineyard spans over 860 acres and includes 27 different varieties. I was particularly impressed with the incredible values that Airfield offers. Having not visited the tasting room in a few years, there were several wines that definitely impressed.

If you have not tried their 2013 Late Harvest Riesling, this is one to grab by the case. The richness, acid structure and viscosity of the wine is a huge accomplishment, considering the $15.00 price tag of the wine. Kudos to the Marcus Miller, head winemaker, on that one. Airfield’s red and white wines also impressed in their 2012 and 2013 releases. The 2014 Viognier was excellent and had wonderful lychee and pear flavors, with nice richness and depth. Their 2012 ‘Estate’ Merlot also impressed for the price and had wonderful red fruit flavors. That is another one to pick up by the case, as it has a wonderful silky texture. Winemaker Marcus Miller shows his skill with these new releases. Check out the strong lineup of Airfield Estates wines at airfieldestates.com #airfieldestates

2014 Airfield Estates Sauvignon Blanc- This is 100% stainless steel fermented and is estate fruit that was bottled in May 2015. There is gooseberry and lemongrass as well as white peach on the nose. There is nice minerality on the palate and a smooth mouthfeel. Flavors of grapefruit, red delicious apple and pear on the palate with a slight astringency. This would be a lovely pair for oysters. Drink 2015-2019-89

2014 Airfield Estates Fly Girl- This is a 100% stainless fermented wine that was bottled in May 2015. This value wine is a blend of 53% Pinot Gris, 22% Viognier, 13% Gewürztraminer and 12% Rousanne. This wine opens with aromas of honeysuckle, pear and lychee. There are flavors of vanilla, pear, red delicious and a nice clean finish. Drink 2015-2020. -89

2014 Airfield Estates Moscato-This is made with 1.4 residual sugar. Aromas of pear, golden delicious apple and lychee. There are flavors of pear, red delicious and cantaloupe. Smooth mouthfeel and a nice minerality. This is a tremendous value. Drink 2015-2020- 89

2014 Airfield Estates Dry Moscato- This interesting wine opens with aromas of jasmine, pear and cardamom. There are flavors of pear, cantaloupe, and Granny Smith Apple. Nice astringency and acid structure. I haven’t seen any value Washington wines quite like this. Drink 2015-2019-88

2014 Airfield Estates Viognier- This is 90% unoaked and the rest was in neutral barrels. This wine opens with aromas of white peach, banana and pear. There are flavors of lychee, pear and vanilla cream with a full mouthfeel. This has lovely texture and offers tremendous value. Drink 2015-2020-90

2014 Airfield Estates Chardonnay- This wine saw 30% neutral oak fermentation, with the rest fermented in stainless steel. There are aromas of pear, Gala apple, and starfruit with subtle oak. This leads to flavors of oak, pear and golden delicious apple. Beautiful texture to this wine that is velvety and buttery. Drink 2015-2022. -90

2013 Airfield Estates Lightning- This is a blend of 59% Viognier, 35% Roussane and 6% Marsanne. There are aromas of buttered toast, pear and honeydew. There are flavors of red delicious apple, pear and a long buttery finish. This forward style wine is delicious. Drink 2015-2019-89

2013 Airfield Estates Reserve Chardonnay- The fruit comes from the County Line vineyard that is primarily sandy loam soil and sits at a steep 10% grade, 1100 feet above sea level. This is 100% oaked Chard and spent 16 months in neutral French oak before being bottled in January 2015. The wine opens with aromas of oak, pear and golden delicious. This has pear, golden delicious and heavy whipping cream with a long cream finish. Delicious now. Drink 2015-2022-90

2013 Lone Birch Chardonnay- Airfield’s second label wine here impresses with aromas of pear, green apple and a touch of oak. There are flavors of pear, cantaloupe and green apple. Impressive effort considering the price point. Drink 2015-2019-88

2014 Lone Birch Pinot Gris- This was formerly the Airfield Pinot Gris and they now bottle this with Lone Birch. There are aromas of pear, Gala apple and lychee. There are flavors of red delicious apple, pear, nutmeg and a strong minerality. Delicious summer wine. Drink 2015-2019-89

2013 Lone Birch Red Blend- There are aromas of red cherry, prune and oak. Flavors of red cherry, guava and a bit saccharin driven. Drink 2015-2017-85

2013 Lone Birch Syrah- This is all estate fruit from the Airfield vineyard. There are open aromas of oak, red cherry, cherry tomato and blackberry. There are flavors of blackberry, red cherry and raspberry. Nice richness for the price point. Excellent value wine that will drink nicely over the next few years. Drink 2015-2019-88

2013 Lone Birch Cabernet- This delicious value wine opens with aromas of blackberry, red cherry and oak. There are nice rich flavors of blackberry, anise, red cherry and raspberry. Tasty and open wine for the price. Drink 2015-2020-89

2013 Airfield Estates Merlot- Slightly muted nose with dill, red cherry and raspberry. There are flavors of red cherry, pomegranate, dill and milk chocolate. Silky texture with good balance. Drink 2015-2022-90

2012 Airfield Estates Estate Merlot- This wine comes from the D-2 block in the Miller Vineyard that was planted in 1996 and is primarily silty loam over broken basalt. This was aged 19 months in 60% French, 30% American and 10% Eastern European oak (30% new), prior to bottling in September 2014. The wine opens with a rich nose with red cherry, dill and oak. There are flavors of black cherry, dill, raspberry and black olive. Delicious and excellent richness in this layered effort. Drink 2015-2022-91

2012 Airfield Estates ‘Runway’ Merlot-This 2200 case production wine comes from a Merlot block from the estate vineyard that was first planted in 1996. It has aromas of black cherry, blackberry and black olive. There are flavors of red cherry, raspberry and vanilla in this fruit driven wine. Drink 2015-2020-89

2012 Airfield Estates ‘Runway’ Cabernet-This wine comes from a block first planted in 1989 and is 100% estate fruit that was bottled in August 2013. It opens with aromas of raspberry, black cherry and black olive. There are flavors of blackberry, black olive and mocha. This is rock solid. Drink 2015-2022. -90

2013 Airfield Estates Cabernet- This warm vintage wine opens with aromas of blackberry, anise and coffee. There are flavors of blackberry, anise, black cherry and elegant acid backbone. Impressive effort for the price. Drink 2015-2023-91

2012 Airfield Estates Aviator- The vines for this wine come from the D-2 Merlot block and the E-5 Cabernet block, as well as the Black Rock site for the other varietals. This is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec. It begins with aromas of black cherry, oak and anise. There are flavors blackberry, anise and black cherry alongside moderate tannins. This has nice balance and moderate richness, with a nice acid backbone. Drink 2015-2022-89

2013 Airfield Estates Cabernet Franc- This 40 case production wine begins with aromas of dill, rosemary and sagebrush with red cherry. There are flavors of red cherry, raspberry and polished structure. Delicious red fruit character and brings out its feminine side. Drink 2015-2022-90

2012 Airfield Estates Dauntless- This Merlot dominant blend with aromas of blackberry, mocha and black cherry. There are flavors of blackberry, black cherry and anise. Delicious effort. Drink 2015-2020-89

2013 Airfield Estates Runway Syrah-This Syrah comes from a block of the estate vineyard that was planted in 2002, situated right below the Roza canal at the headquarters of Black Rock Creek. There are aromas of black olive, black cherry and nutmeg. There are flavors of black cherry, blackberry and coffee. Delicious and polished effort that impresses considering the price. Drink 2015-2022-90

2012 Airfield Estates Spitfire- This is a blend of 60% Sangiovese with 30% Cabernet and 10% Merlot. There are aromas of red cherry, raspberry and blackberry. Flavors of blackberry, red cherry and cranberry flavors. This has nice balance. 495 cases made. Drink 2015-2020. -89

2013 Airfield Estates Late Harvest Riesling- This impressive bottling is made from frozen grapes and has 20% Residual sugar and only 9.6% alcohol. This wine required twice the typical amount of yeast, due to the high sugar levels. There are rich aromas of pineapple, golden delicious and ripe Bartlett pear. This has a wonderful texture and richness, leading to flavors of white raisin, nectarine, golden delicious apple and honey. Viscous and mineral driven wine that's serious. I would easily pay double the price for this. Drink 2015-2025-94

Tamarack Cellars

Located in a renovated firehouse from a World War II Army Air Base outside the town of Walla Walla, Ron and Jamie Coleman founded Tamarack Cellars in 1998 and have operated this family run winery since then. Tamarack's first vintage consisted of 300 cases of Merlot. The winery has grown considerably, now up to 20,000 cases each year. Head winemaker, Danny Gordon, has worked at Tamarack since 1999. While Gordon has no formal training in wine, he has learned from his Walla Walla colleagues over the years and his new releases are excellent. Tamarack has received considerable acclaim for their Firehouse Red in the past and their new effort, the 2013, was fruity, yet balanced, and delivers for the price. I was also particularly impressed with their 2014 Chardonnay, that was a mineral driven effort and is one of the best from Washington that I’ve tried at the $15.00 price point.

Their red wines were also solid and were taken from the warm 2013 vintage. Their 2012 Syrah is drinking beautifully now and is hard to resist with the black fruit flavor profiles. Similarly, their 2012 Cabernet is one of the best Cabernet values in the Walla Walla valley. It is a rich and layered effort that shouldn’t be missed. You can find the Firehouse Red at Costco but all other wines can be found online at https://tamarackcellars.com/store Here are the new release wines from Tamarack Cellars. #tamarackcellars

2014 Tamarack Chardonnay-  This wine was sourced from the Olsen Brothers, Lewis, Gamache, Bacchus, Sagemoor and Alderbanks vineyards. 70% was aged in used French oak from Cadus, Damy, Dargaud & Jaegle, Francois Freres, Louis Latour and Sirugue, while 30% was aged in stainless tanks, prior to bottling in March 2015. This wine opens with bright aromas of Bartlett pear, wet stone and cantaloupe. This leads to flavors reminiscent of pineapple, golden delicious apple and brioche. The minerality lingers on the tongue in the lingering finish. This is an excellent effort. Drink 2015-2020- 91

2013 Tamarack Firehouse Red- This wine is an intriguing blend of 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Syrah, 22% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 7% Sangiovese, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Grenache and 1% devoted to Counoise, Mourvèdre Malbec and Cinsault. This wine was aged 40% new oak barrels, mostly French and American oak with a small portion of Eastern European oak for 16 months. This wine has aromas of stewed prune, red cherry and dill. This leads to flavors of cocoa powder, red cherry, dill and smoked meats. This is a delicious, medium bodied effort that is meant for early consumption. This would be a fantastic steakhouse pour. Drink 2015-2020- 90

2012 Tamarack Syrah- This wine combines fruit from Columbia Valley, the Bacchus Vineyard and Horse Heaven Hills, the Alder Ridge Vineyard and the Destiny Ridge Vineyard. This was aged in 10% new Hungarian oak with the remaining 90% in second and third fill French oak for 17 months. This deep hued wine has aromas of mocha, blackberry and pencil shavings. This leads to ripe black fruits of black cherry, blackberry and blueberry pie. Thee is a nice mineral streak with good richness. I could see this pairing incredibly well with a juicy fillet mignon. Drink 2015-2022- 92

2013 Tamarack Cabernet- This primarily Columbia Valley Cab was sourced from Bacchus, Dionysus, Weinbau, Alder Ridge and Tapteil vineyards. This wine was recently released in October 2015 and is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cab Franc and 6% Merlot. It spent 24 months in French oak (65% new) and opens with aromas of anise, black olive and blackberry. This leads to a medium bodied mouthfeel, with moderate tannins and flavors of black olive, blackberry, mocha and anise. This is rock solid, with a striking minerality, and offers an excellent value. Drink 2015-2025- 92

2013 Tamarack Cabernet Franc- The Weinbau vineyard has a terrific reputation for Cab Franc, as this wine is comprised of 86% Weinbau Vineyard, (Wahluke Slope), with smaller parts from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (9%) and Tapteil Vineyard (5%), both located in the Red Mountain AVA. This was aged in 20% new French oak with the remaining 80% used French oak. The wine opens with aromas of dill, black cherry, blueberry and oak. This leads to flavors reminiscent of blueberry, milk chocolate, blackberry and dill, with some mild to moderate tannins. I would consider cellaring this for another year. This impressive effort is a great value and I can’t help thinking how it mirrors the flavor profiles of the Januik Weinbau Vineyard Cab Franc. Drink 2016-2026- 91

2013 Tamarack Merlot- This new release Merlot was sourced from Tapteil, Weinbau, Ciel du Cheval, Seven Hills,  Dionysus, Bacchus and Gamache vineyards. It is a blend of 86% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Petit Verdot and weighs in at 14.2% alcohol. The wine has aromas of sandalwood, red cherry and raspberry. There are flavors of anise, blackberry and black cherry in a lovely mineral driven effort. This has nice weight and a silky texture. Drink 2015-2022 -91

Somm Focus on Cassandra Brown, CS, CSW, Divisional Beverage Manager at Hakkasan Group

Cassandra Brown is the Divisional Beverage Manager with Hakkasan Group, an international entertainment, dining, nightlife, and hospitality company. This group has locations across the United States, Europe, Middle East, and Asia. The name of the group is taken from its Michelin-starred restaurant that builds dining, nightlife, day life, and soon-to-be hotel concepts. Hakkasan restaurant has 11 locations worldwide, as well as Yauatcha, HKK, Sake No Hana, Herringbone, Searsucker, Yellowtail, Stack, Fix, Red Square, Kumi, Citizens and Ling Ling restaurants. A recent visit to Searsucker in Las Vegas at Caesar’s Palace impressed. The food quality was exceptional, considering the price. We ordered more than five bar menu items, including the excellent steak tartare and burrata. The wine list offers some great new world selections (http://searsucker.com/las-vegas-menus/#), including the 2013 Groth Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 91 points) and 2013 Landmark ‘Overlook’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91 points). These wine prices are reasonable and won’t break the bank. I recently had the chance to sit down with Cassandra Brown. Cassandra, the Divisional Beverage Manager with Hakkasan Group, which also manages Searsucker, has worked extensively in the food and beverage industry. She was certainly a candid and insightful interview, with a wealth of knowledge with regards to wine, wine training and education, as well as restaurant management. Here is my interview with Cassandra Brown, CS, CSW

WWB: Can you talk about your background in wine and how you came to the Hakkasaan group?

CB: I have been with Hakkasan Group for almost three years, and Divisional Beverage Manager for well over a year. Even though I came to Hakkasan with a plethora of knowledge and experience, I started as a floor Somm at Hakkasan San Francisco. I came into the job with extensive management and other experience. With regards to restaurants, aside from being a Sommelier, I’ve been everything from a back-waiter to a Director of Operations, and I’ve worked with 5 Michelin Star Chefs in different stages of their careers. I earned my Certified Sommelier credential in 2007 through the Court of Master Sommeliers and was actually one of the first persons of color to become a Certified Sommelier through the Court. It’s very well possible that I could have been the first black female to complete this, so I have been doing this for a quite some time. Soon after I completed my Certified credential, I was able to complete my CSW (Certified Specialist of Wine) through the Society of Wine Educators. I also became a professional wine judge the very next year. I’ve also earned the CWAS credential (California Wine Appellation Specialist) with honors from the San Francisco Wine School, and I’m currently pursuing my Advanced Certificate with the Wine and Spirits Education Trust of London. I currently managing the wine and beverage program for the ‘Fabric of Social Dining’ restaurant concepts, founded by celebrity Chef Brian Malarkey which encompasses Searsucker, with other locations in Del Mar, downtown San Diego and Austin, Texas, as well as its sister restaurant, Herringbonewith locations in La Jolla, West Hollywood, Santa Monica and soon to be Las Vegas at Aria Hotel and Casino.

WWB: I am impressed with the small but excellent wine list at Searsucker, Las Vegas. Can you talk about creating the wine list at Searsucker?

CB: When I came over to the ‘Fabrics’, I inherited five restaurants and wine lists at once, which was not an easy task. One of my previous positions was Wine and Beverage Director for the Left Bank Restaurant Group in the San Francisco Bay area where I worked with Michelin Star Chef Roland Passot, and I managed the wine and beverage program for 5 locations. And it’s funny, because a little while after I left, they brought in a Master Sommelier to oversee that program. In terms of the different restaurants that I work with currently, each restaurant has its own demographic and what I call a different ‘energy’. In San Diego, those guys surf, and everyone is more laid back, and wine isn’t a big focus down there, but you still want to represent the culture. Most of the people tend to be more into craft beer and cocktails, but the observing the differences gives you the opportunity to do tweaks here and there. I found it very important and valuable to listen to the people who work in the restaurants, especially those who were there before me. It’s a good way of understanding what’s best to pour in each location. I am in the process of developing a ‘signature wine’ program for the ‘Fabrics’, a core list of wines that can be shared across all the Searsuckers and Herringbones, and I would like to launch it early next year. The Hakkasan branded locations have signature wines as well, and I would like to extend that principal over to the ‘Fabrics’. And even though there are lots of similarities among the restaurants, there are a ton of differences, and I want to try and consider everything. For instance, something that will work at Del Mar and down downtown San Diego might not work in La Jolla. La Jolla is very wine savvy, and they are willing to spend a little bit extra on their wine. And in Del Mar, there is a lot of money, but people might not want to spend as much of their money, and it’s good to know that. You must always keep in mind the location of the restaurant and the people that come in there. The downtown San Diego Searsucker location tends to be a mixture of all types of people, including locals and tourists. In the Austin, Texas location, we sell big and bold wines during Formula One … the Formula One wines I call them… wines like Opus One and such.

WWB: What did you like about their wine program at Hakkasan?

CB: The Hakkasan wine program is very impressive. There is a lot that goes into constructing the wine list. The Hakkasan wine program is something that has manifested over many years. Our Group Head of Wine in London, Christine Parkinson, is very well respected around the world, and I get to work directly with her. There is a great benefit to having personal time with her and drawing from her experience. She has been with Hakkasan since the very beginning, and her work in wine is excellent. Working with her greatly enhances what I offer not only to the company but to the profession as well.

WWB: Can you talk about the wine list at Searsucker in Las Vegas?

CB: Vegas was very new to me. I would come here from time to time for work, but I never spent a tremendous amount of time here. Vegas is very pedestrian. That got me thinking about what I call ‘creature comforts’. We wanted a program that would appeal to the masses and wine that the servers and the other staff would be comfortable selling. We wanted to choose wines that would appeal to many types of people, and all types of tourists. Everything is a collaborative effort, and you draw valuable information from your team, but it is my job to also oversee the program as well as execute corporate initiatives, grow vendor relationships, tasting, and so on.

WWB: I saw that you have the Landmark wines on the Searsucker Las Vegas wine list. Can you talk about the Landmark wines?

CB: Landmark wines tend to be very consistent and very popular. The Landmark wines are extremely approachable and being from Sonoma, they offer great structure, drinkability and are food friendly. They seem to appeal to a variety of palates, regardless of what people like to drink. Aside from Searsucker Las Vegas, I’m currently pouring the Landmark wines at Herringbone Santa Monica, which is our most recent opening for Hakkasan group. Herringbone Santa Monica came swinging out of the gate, and we were pretty sure that this restaurant was going to be a hit. Over time, I have learned to consider all types of wines that work well with a variety of foods, from spicy to savory. When we opened Searsucker Las Vegas, we thought that the Landmark wines would complement the menu very well, and they will also be part of the Fabric’s signature wine selections as well.

WWB: What are some of your career aspirations in the world of wine?

CB: I really enjoy working in a corporate environment. I like being a wine buyer and working on the corporate side of wine. I have also been on the consulting side where I’ve helped restaurants develop their wine programs as well as trained their staff. I also enjoy judging. I currently judge the LA International and the California State Fair wine competitions. Wine judging is hard work, but it can be a lot of fun, and I like doing the fun things in our business. I’ve also taught wine classes in the private sector for enthusiasts. My take on wine is that wine should be fun, not intimidating. I was recently given some amazing feedback that one of my blind tasting classes at the LA County Fair went extremely well and was very popular. My approach was to take people through what leads up to the actual blind tasting process…What we look for…what makes one wine different from the one next to it…how to look for, smell and taste the differences...and how those differences help us draw certain conclusions. It’s all about the practice and prep work that leads up to taking an actual exam, not to mention all the stuff that you have to do before you even pick up a glass. The documentary film ‘SOMM’ has had a major impact, and there is a sequel that is soon be released. ‘SOMM’ showed the masses the good, the bad and the ugly of what we do as sommeliers. Our preparedness is all for our guests’ benefit and to heighten the guest experience. I am happy with whatever and wherever wine takes me, and I absolutely love working with Hakkasan Group. I would love to move up in the company, and I’m also interested in other side projects. I’m currently in the middle of the opening of Herringbone at Aria [Hotel], and I just finished the list for that venue. We’ll have some of the same things as Searsucker, but I will sprinkle in quite a few more things, like more Burgundies and Bordeaux, large format bottles, but make it fun and approachable. This list has around 120ish wines whereas other lists have around 80ish. The Fabrics are and have always been very cocktail and craft beer focused. But now with our expansion into other demographics, we are taking wine out of the shadows, finally putting more of a spotlight on wine which of course, makes me very happy!

Delmas

A winery with serious terroir, Delmas is a family project based in the rocks region of Walla Walla valley. The epicenter of this project is the SJR Vineyard, planted in 2007 and located on the western border of this Oregon AVA. Delmas focuses on making single-vineyard, estate-controlled wines utilizing sustainable farming practices with a special vineyard management focus on form, trellis structure, pruning rigor, nutrient and irrigation strategy. Some big players in wine, including Gramercy Cellars, Rotie Cellars and Rasa Vineyards, buy SJR vineyard fruit for their wines. Superstar winemaker, Billo Naravane, of Rasa, heads this project. These guys make one wine and one wine only, a Syrah. Their new release Syrah was a compelling wine from the warm 2013 vintage. I blind tasted the wine 95 points and it is a stunner. Immediately you notice the rocky soil of The Rocks region. It has beautiful terroir and balance and shows the brilliance of winemaking by Naravane. This limited production winery is hard to find and is mailing list only. Learn more about Delmas at delmaswines.com

Here is the new release 2013 Syrah from Delmas:

2013 Delmas Syrah- Billo Naravane of Rasa heads this winemaking project. The wine is a blend of 91.9% Syrah and 8.1% Viognier from SJR Vineyard in the rocks region of Walla Walla. This was aged 14 months in French oak (65% new), prior to bottling. This compelling wine opens with aromas of wet stone, smoked meats, creosote and oak. It continues to deliver rich flavors of milk chocolate, blackberry, cedar and smoked meat which flow through this textured and balanced red. Allow this at least an hour of air contact if approaching early on. (Drink 2016-2027)- 95

Groth Vineyards

A Napa mainstay, Groth has been producing high quality red and white wines for many years. Founders Judy and Dennis Groth found financial success while working for Ernst and Young in the South Bay. Dennis became chief financial officer at Atari and in 1981 they both purchased a large 121 acre parcel of land in Oakville. These vineyards are on the floor of Napa, right in the prime area for growing beautiful Chard, and Bordeaux varietals. Winemaker Cameron Parry took over as head winemaker in 2014, after previously serving as winemaker at Chateau Montelena for 10 years.
These new releases were solid, as I was particularly impressed with their Cabernet efforts in 2012, an exceptional Napa vintage. The 2012 Groth Cabernet is a rich fruit driven wine that is drinking great right out of the bottle. It would make a fantastic glass pour at any high end steakhouse. The crème de la crème here is the 2012 Reserve Cabernet, which is a massive wine that really needs another year (minimum) in the bottle to fully express itself. The Reserve has the density and structure to wrestle with some of the best of Napa. Here are the great new releases from Groth.

2014 Groth Sauvignon Blanc-This wine is a blend of 91% Sav Blanc and 9% Semillon. The grapes were 80% barrel fermented (sur lie for five months), with the rest in stainless. The lively wine opens with aromas of grapefruit, gooseberry and jalapeño pepper. There are flavors of grapefruit, peach pit, and nectarine. There is a lovely mineral steak in this impressive new release. This is absolutely perfect for shellfish. Drink 2015-2019- 91

2013 Groth 'Hillview Vineyard' Chardonnay- This cool vineyard site, located in the Oak Knoll District, was oringinally planted in 1996. This sat in 25% new French oak barrels for eight months, prior to bottling. There are aromatics of butter, poached pear and hazelnuts. Lovely minerality to this wine. There are flavors of vanilla cream, macadamia nut, and creme brûlée. Delicious wine that impresses. Drink 2015-2021- 92

2012 Groth Cabernet- The Cabernet is a blend of 88% Cabernet with 12% Merlot. This was aged 22 months in French oak barrels (65% new) prior to bottling. There are aromas of cedar, blackberry and mocha. The wine is open and polished with flavors of blackberry, graphite, anise, creme de cassis and mild tannins. There is a marvelous mouthfeel to this wine, with brisk minerality. Drink 2015-2029- 92

2012 Groth Reserve Cabernet- This rich wine, coming from the 28 acre Reserve Block at the Estate vineyard, was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak, utilizing Vernou, Sylvain, Quintessence coopers. This also had over a year of bottle-aging prior to its recent release. The impressive bouquet opens with aromas of mocha, cassis and blackberry. There are boysenberry preserves, mocha, figs, graphite, and creme de cassis. Drinking beautifully now but this will be a long-ager. Try to resist popping the cork on this one for at least another year. Drink 2016-2035- 94

Interview with Dan Wampfler, Head Winemaker at Dunham Cellars and Review of New Dunham Releases

One of my favorite Northwest winemakers, Dan Wampfler, continues to impress with his fantastic new releases. I was recently able to taste some of the new wines from Dunham with head winemaker Dan Wampfler. Dunham Cellars was created in by Eric Dunham 1995 and is one of the older and most prestigious wineries in Walla Walla. Wampfler, formerly with Columbia Crest, has a background in making everything from Sparkling wine to Riesling to Cabernet at his former employer. Dan has brought that depth of knowledge to Dunham. His releases combine richness, fruit character and great terroir. As Dan says, he wants his wines to have a sense of place. . . and they most certainly do.
This year marks the 20th anniversary of Dunham Cellars. I was very impressed with his new release wines, especially his new release late harvest Riesling (95, WWB), as well as his 2009 Founders Reserve (also rated 94 points), a wine that was dedicated to the founders of Dunham, Eric and Mike Dunham, who tragically both passed away in the last two years. The Founders Reserve is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah from the Lewis Vineyard. It is a full bodied, terroir driven and impressive effort that will cellar beautifully for decades and represents the highest rated red that I’ve every tried from Dunham. The 2014 Late Harvest Riesling is a special wine and is one of the best of its kind in Washington. The combination of richness and acidity in this wine is nothing short of superlative. It is the perfect pairing for a rich vanilla ice cream. Here is my latest interview with Dunham head winemaker, Dan Wampfler, followed by reviews of the new release wines from Dunham Cellars. Find these wines at dunhamcellars.com ‪#‎dunhamcellars‬

WWB: Can you talk about the winemaking in the 2012 Dunham Cabernet which is your new release?

DW: I think with the prior vintage [2011] being cool and more feminine and food friendly and lower alcohol. ‘12 was a ripe vintage and we didn’t want to swing too far the other way. We wanted to capture the brightness, acidity and fresh fruit but led the vintage speak for itself. It is kind of a transitional wine from two previous cool vintages. We dialed up the new oak percentage and pressed pretty gently.

WWB: One of the most esteemed vineyards in Washington is the Lewis vineyard. I am interested in what kind of flavor profiles that you are typically able to obtain in the red wines? Can you talk about the character of the vineyard?

DW: Obviously we do a single vineyard Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah and there is a common thread of ripe cherry and cherry pie character. The Lewis Vineyard Cabernet shows that cherry pie right off the bat. The Syrah has that cherry pie character but also earth, orange peel and subtle flavors. The Cab is more dark notes and with the Merlot as well you see that cherry pie flavor profile. You see that ripe cherry with all of our wines made from the Lewis vineyard.

WWB: One of the better value wines that I have had this year from Washington was the 2012 Trutina. I was impressed with the layers, as well as the richness and structure of the wine. Can you talk about the winemaking and the blending in this wine?

DW: Trutina is our Bordeaux style blend and is Latin for balance. . . as in, don’t drink too much you might lose your Trutina. To have a balanced wine that is layered is what you want. It has 45% Cabernet, 38% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 2% Petite Verdot, and a touch of Syrah, 5%. And we have a pretty varied barrel program for this from new oak and used oak. And that is the idea to make a balanced wine that is layered and intriguing.

WWB: We talked about your new wine, the 2009 Founders Reserve and this is the first time that you have done this project with the blending all three varietals to make this wine. It comes from an exceptional vintage, 2009. Can you talk about making this wine and choosing the blend for this wine and how you saw each Lewis vineyard varietal this year?

DW: 2009 was a ripe year as you have suggested and we have always kept the Lewis Cab, Merlot and Syrah separate. We thought that this year was so exceptional and purity of varietal character and we started playing around with a blend of the three varietals. We felt that during the bench trials of blending this wine that this [current blend] was the right combination that accentuated the cherry character and no one varietal was dominant. You didn’t want to put too much of one varietal in it and to me it was a balanced, premium, Lewis blend. I wasn’t looking for specific percentage points in the blend but was looking for the most balanced Lewis wine.

WWB: I know you are big fan of Riesling and I just had the opportunity to review new late harvest release. Can you talk about what you were trying to accomplish with the wine with balance, acid structure and richness?

DW: First of all, as a winemaker I love challenges. Late Harvest Riesling is a major challenge for a winemaker. You have to be concerned about the fruit and the timing of things, like when to pick and when to ferment and when to stop the fermentation process. The goal for me with this wine, and I think in any wine, is to seek balance and the balance for me in the late harvest Riesling is acidity, mouthfeel and aromatics. There is consistency with the aromatics and flavors from vintage to vintage but I am looking to find it as viscous as I can push it and I am looking for acidity that gives you the lingering finish. I want the wine to be so it is not so sweet that you don’t want another sip but that is where the acidity comes in that it makes you want more. The aromatics with this wine evolve with time and I want people to smell it and say that this is definitely a late harvest Riesling.

Here are the new release wines from Dunham Cellars:

2012 Dunham Cellars Cabernet- This Cabernet saw 75% French oak and 25% American oak. It was bottled in Late July 2014 and weighs in at 14% alcohol. It is sourced from the Lewis Estate, Kenny Hill, Wallula Vineyard and the Tokar vineyard. There are ripe aromas of blackberry, anise, smoked pork shoulder and sagebrush. There are flavors of blackberry, anise and black olive with a velvety texture and lovely long finish. This is impressive wine that will drink beautifully for decades. Drink 2015-2030. -94

2011 Dunham Cellars Lewis Vineyard Cabernet- The Lewis vineyard is located at 1200 feet in the Rattlesnake Ridge in the Columbia Valley. It is a small, family owned vineyard managed by Betty Lewis & son, Ken Jr. The wine was aged in 83% French oak and 17% American oak and was bottled in January 2014. This cool vintage Cabernet has lovely aromatics on the nose with red cherry, blackberry, cassis and anise as well as sagebrush. There are flavors of blackberry, anise, milk chocolate and moderate tannins. This one needs time in the bottle to mature. 375 cases made. Drink 2017-2030- 93

2011 Dunham Cellars Lewis Vineyard Syrah- The wine saw 85% French oak and 15% American oak prior to bottling in January 2014. This wine is only 13.5% alcohol and the balanced effort opens with aromas of sagebrush, red cherry and milk chocolate. There are flavors of red cherry, orange zest, blackberry, and a strong mineral streak. This is done in the feminine and balanced style. Drink 2016-2030- 93

2009 Dunham Cellars Founders Reserve- This wine celebrates Dunham’s 20th anniversary. It is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Syrah and was named after the recently deceased Eric and Mike Dunham. This wine has a rich and earthy nose. There are aromas of cedar, blackberry, mocha and black cherry. There are flavors of mocha, blackberry, anise and lovely balance and acid affix fire. The finish is exceptional. Drink 2015-2035- 94

2014 Dunham Cellars Late Harvest Lewis Vineyard Riesling-Aged in stainless steel, the wine was released in May 2015 and weighs in at only 7% alcohol. This has lovely aromas of orange marmalade, Lemoncello, and jasmine in this compelling nose. This wine has 30% residual sugar and there is wonderful richness and balance. There are ripe aromas of pineapple, golden delicious apple, white raisin and creme brûlée. This is ripe, concentrated and delicious. Drink 2015-2030- 95

La Jota

A winery perched on Howell Mountain, overlooking Napa Valley, this La Jota was originally founded in the 1890s by Fredrich Hess, an immigrant from Switzerland. Over time these wines received considerable accolades. In fact, they even received a gold medal at the World’s Fair of 1904 in St. Louis. Current wines are made from low yielding vines planted amongst 28 acres. The high altitude keeps the freshness and minerality to the wine. These vines are planted on volcanic soils at relatively high elevation which gives the red wines excellent richness and aging potential. The terroir of Howell Mountain also has colder temperatures at night, compared to the Napa Valley floor -- which leads to lower yields than the floor and also smaller but richly concentrated fruit. Being at higher elevation also protects the fruit from the intense temperatures sometimes experienced on the Napa floor.
Head winemaker, Christopher Carpenter has a B.A. in biology, as well as an M.B.A. in international business. After officially falling in love with wine, Carpenter completed the illustrious masters of viticulture and enology program at UC Davis. He took over as head winemaker at La Jota in 2005. His current releases were rich and impressive offerings. The 2012 Cabernet Franc is one of the best Napa bottlings I’ve tried this year. It mingles with its feminine side, with rich red fruit and acid structure that is drinking beautifully now. The 2012 Cabernet was a powerful effort that will need some time in the bottle to fully integrate. Similarly, the 2012 Merlot is powerful and rich that will benefit from 1-2 years in the bottle. Carpenter had a wonderful vintage to work with in 2012 but his winemaking is exceptional. These wines have the trademark mountain fruit and balance that you want from the Bordeaux varietals. Look for these wines at Northwest specialty wine shops such as Esquin and Wine World. You can also find them online at http://www.lajotavineyardco.com
Here are the impressive new releases from La Jota:‪#‎lajota‬

2012 La Jota ‘Howell Mountain’ Merlot-The wine comes from two vineyards located high upon a plateau overlooking Napa Valley: their estate vineyard and the W.S. Keyes vineyard. The grapes were hand-harvested and spent 20 months in French Oak (86% new). This wine opens with aromas of milk chocolate, toffee, black cherry and cassis. There are rich flavors of anise, creme de cassis, black cherry mocha and blackberry in this delicious cornucopia of fruit. This wine improves after an hour of decanting. While it is delicious now, it will improve with 1-2 years of cellaring. Drink 2016-2029- 93

2012 La Jota ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet- The La Jota Estate vineyard is located on a high volcanic plateau overlooking Napa Valley. Fruit was utilized from the state vineyard as well as the W.S. Keyes Estate vineyard, which is located one mile from their estate vineyard. The wine is comprised of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot. It saw 20 months in French Oak (89% new) and weighs in at 14.5% alcohol. The wine opens with aromatics of anise, cassis and red bell pepper in this somewhat muted nose. There are rich and dense flavors of anise, creme de cassis, blackberry and black olive. There is a dense and viscous mouthfeel. This wine is lovely right now but needs another hear or two in the bottle. Drink 2016-2035 -94

2012 La Jota ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Franc- This wine comes from a very small vineyard, the Winery Block Vineyard, planted next to the winery on Howell Mountain. It spent 20 months in French Oak (81% new) prior to bottling. The wine has intense aromas of red bell pepper, dill, red cherry and raspberry. There are flavors of red bell pepper, anise, red cherry and black olive. The minerality and acid scripture is impressive. This is very hard to resist right now but try to cellar this one for another year. Drink 2016-2030 -94

Rasa Vineyards and Interview with Billo Naravane, Head Winemaker at Rasa

This Walla Walla wine story begins with two wine collectors and oenophiles, Pinto and Billo Naravane. These guys decided to quit their jobs in the computer industry and move to Walla Walla, where they started Rasa Vineyards in 2007. What they’ve created is some exceptional, terroir driven wines. The new releases from Rasa are some of the most compelling red wine new releases from Washington that I've had this year. The 2012 Rasa 'Creative Impulse' in particular is one that shines and is made from DuBrul vineyard fruit, possibly the most famous vineyard in the state.
Billo Naravane serves as head winemaker and is one exceptional man, having a bachelor’s degree from MIT and a master’s degree from Stanford. His wine education is the one of the best out there as well, completing the wine program from UC Davis. It’s no wonder that this incredibly smart man makes some great wine. I found Billo to be incredibly friendly, knowledgeable and approachable while I visited Rasa. It was a great pleasure spending time with him and talking wine.  Here is my interview with Billo, followed by my reviews of his wines #rasa #rasavineyards

WWB: Can you talk about the style of your wines?

BN: The style of our wines lean towards France. While we cannot make French wines here in Washington, we can tilt our winemaking towards France. There is nothing wrong with Napa or Australia but we prefer the wines of France like Bordeaux and Rhone. The name Rasa means essence in Sanskrit and it is the terroir aspect of the winemaking that we are in love with. We strongly believe that the vineyard’s character should speak as well as the vintage character. If I were to pour you a vertical of our wines and describe the vintage growing conditions, I bet that you could easily identify which wine corresponded to which vintage.

WWB: How I got turned onto Rasa was in a blind tasting where I blind tasted the 2007 Rasa QED 95 points. It was one of my highest scoring Rhone style Washington wines I’ve ever reviewed. Can you talk about the wine?

BN: 2007 was a warm year and very much like 2009 except we got a little bit of a cold front coming in September and October and we got more hang time and it is one of my favorite vintages. It was in the middle of the spectrum between the cold vintages and the warm vintage. We got a beautiful range of complexity of flavors. And then we made a complete wine just from the get go. That was one of my favorite vintages. The 2007s are aging beautifully and are just entering their early phase of maturity.

WWB: I have noticed that you are able to create a beautiful texture with both Rhone and Bordeaux varietals. Can you talk about how you are able to create that lovely mouthfeel that is distinctively Rasa?

BN: As a winemaker it is difficult to have to make a wine that tastes great young and has the capacity to age and improve. We are careful to watch the mouthfeel of the wine, particularly the phenolics. The tannins come into solutions differently and you can exploit that aspect of temperature and timing of punch downs and that will influence what kind of tannins come into solution. Also with the press there is some point where the phenolics turn bitter and aggressive. You have to train yourself for that. You have to look past that sugar and hone in on the phenolic characters. That is a skill that you can only learn at the press. You can read about it all you want but you can only really learn that skill at the press.

WWB: I recently had the chance to review your 2011 vintage releases. This was a vintage where a lot of critics downgraded the vintage. But there were a couple of wines that you were able to create a rich flavor profile, despite the coldness of the vintage, particularly the 2011 Rasa ‘Creative Impulse’. Can you talk about that wine?

BN: 2011 was one of the coolest vintages on record and we tend to like those vintages. The fruit is not as voluptuous and ripe but that is never an issue at the DuBurul vineyard which is a cooler climate vineyard site. In 2011 we were taking steps in the vineyard to accelerate the ripening. In cooler years one must make a tradeoff between flavor development and yield. We had a little bit of botrytis issue to contend with as well. We took the yields down drastically (up to 60% in some cases) to ensure proper ripening. From DuBrul we got about half the yield that we normally get. This is our most expensive fruit and like and getting half the yield made it financially painful. But we had to sacrifice the yield to get the quality and it turned out to be the right call. In the end you get this wonderful texture from a cold vintage. 2012 is a warm year that you know from the start is going to make tasty wine. But 2011 to make something outstanding that year, you have to know your stuff. That was a year that differentiated your winemaking talent. For each vineyard I have sense of oak profile that I like. In the past in Washington most winemakers would use too much new oak. If the wine was red then it would go into 100 percent new oak. In my opinion this was almost always the wrong decision. I want oak to be a supporting player, not the dominant one.

WWB: You are a big fan of the 2011 vintage. Can you talk more about the vintage and how it compares to 2010?

BN: I think out of the two vintages, ’11 was definitely the colder one of the two. The fruit, I think people gravitated towards the ’10 because the fruit was riper. It is more opulent in the fruit character but in the ’11 there is this beautiful sense of finesse and sheer balance. You were able to get this razor edge of balance between the fine acidity and the tannin without having the jammier profile of fruit. We got ripe by taking the yields down drastically, and for the people that did that, they were able to get this elegant and focused flavor delineation. If you have the ’11 and ’10 side by side, you will notice that the ‘11s, generally speaking, have better finesse, elegance and more precise balance. There is a beauty in the ‘11s for the wineries that really did a good job; it is probably the best I’ve seen in Washington. I talked with a bunch of winemaker friends who were disappointed with the 2011 vintage because they didn’t get their 26 or 27 brix that year. But to me if you have wonderful flavor development, and great phenolic ripeness at 23.5 Brix, what is the problem? You have this amazing balance and flavor at lower alcohol potential. I would take 2011 every year.

WWB: Since you style of winemaking tends to be more Bordelaise, what do you do in 2013 and 2014 to have that tension.

BN: It starts in the vineyards and I go back to the quality in the vineyard. In the warmer years you try to achieve the balance in the grapes. So we actually take great steps to slow down ripening. We did that by managing the water aspect of the vines, as well as taking the canopy back drastically. We cut back the canopy about 30 to 40% and still maintained the leaf structure in the fruiting zone. The reason why we did that is it naturally slows down the vineyard. Each leaf on the plant is a sugar accumulating factor. So if you have less leaves then you have less sugar accumulation. If you take off too many leaves then there is too much sunburn. But if you take some off then it works great. In a year like 2015 where there was so much sunlight I know the grapes are going to be ripe. But how can I slow it down? The hormonal trigger in the plant gets triggered for flavor production relatively late in the cycle. If you don’t take the steps to slow it down then you have super sweet grapes but no flavor and complexity. I think vineyards that didn’t take steps to slow it down will be a little disappointed with the resulting wine. I think that you can make great wines in the warm years as well if you are paying close attention to the vineyard. I track the heat accumulation for the year, adjust the canopy and crop load. You just have your best guess at the moment and then have several passes to dial it in and get the great complexity that we want. There are a lot of winemakers that hardly ever step foot in the vineyard. They will go taste the fruit it once or twice and then bring it in. But if you never go to the vineyards during the season, I think that you are missing a huge aspect of quality control. At Rasa we let the vineyards dictate the style of the wine in a given year. We respect the vineyard’s individuality as much as the year’s individuality.

WWB: Are there any wines in the area that you find compelling or producers that you enjoy?

BN: I do love the Cote Bonneville wines and the DuBrul fruit. They make great wines across the board. I also like the Reynvann wines. You know, Christophe [Baron], I think that when he nails it, he nails it; I have had a lot of compelling Cayuse wines. Also Gramercy is excellent, all of their wines are very solid. Greg and Brandon are very talented and do a fantastic job. This is one of the wineries that we regularly trade wine with.  

New Releases From Rasa Vineyards:

2012 Rasa QED ‘Convergence’- This wine was stored for 30 months in 20% new French oak (predominantly from Troncais and Alliers) and 80% neutral French oak. It opens with somewhat muted aromas of blackberry, blueberry and sagebrush. There are flavors of blackberry, anise and blueberry. This has incredible acidity and balance. The blend is an expressive wine that improves with an hour in the glass. Up there with the 2007 as the best QEDs that have been released. Drink 2015-2028- 94

2012 Rasa ‘Principia’ Reserve Syrah- This beautiful Syrah was sourced from the Les Collines, and Seven Hills vineyards, weighing in at 15.1% alcohol – but you wouldn’t know it from the mid-palate. It opens with a smoky nose with smoked meats, bacon fat, blackberry, in this expressively aromatic wine.  This is amazing acid structure and has flavors of black olive, blackberry, black cherry and anise. Wonderful terroir and balance. Drink 2015-2025- 95

2013 Rasa QED ‘Axiom of Choice’- This excellent Cab Franc is made from Weinbau vineyard fruit, one of the more famous state sites for the varietal. It opens with lovely aromas of red cherry, crushed flowers, raspberry and dill. There are flavors of red cherry, pomegranate, anise and dill. Delicious and lithe with a wonderful minerality. Only 236 cases made of this delicious wine. Drink 2016-2035- 93

2012 Rasa ‘Plus One’ Cabernet- This is from Kiona vineyard Cabernet from their oldest block. There are aromas of blackberry, cassis, anise, red bell pepper and spice cake. There are flavors of anise, blackberry, black olive and black cherry. This has incredible weight and balance. A compelling effort that head winemaker, Bilo Navarene thinks will age gracefully for 15-20 years. Drink 2015-2035- 94

2012 Rasa ‘Creative Impulse’- This outstanding Bordeaux style red is a heavyhitter. Comprised of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon and 41% Merlot., the wine opens with a complex nose with red bell pepper, cherry pie and dill with sagebrush in this herbaceous and terroir driven nose. There are flavors of red cherry, cherry tomato, raspberry, blackberry and anise. This is a rockstar wine that is balanced, rich and has an incredible mouthfeel. This long ager has 152 cases made so grab some before it sells out. Drink 2015-2035- 96

2012 Rasa ‘In Order to Form A More Perfect Union’-  The grapes in this impressive Bordeaux style blend are sourced from five different vineyards: Echo Ridge, DuBrul, Kiona, Dionysus, and Weinbau. It is comprised of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot. This is a Cab dominant wine that opens with aromas of blackberry, anise, red cherry and dill. There are flavors of blackberry, anise, black cherry and black olive. This has lovely mouthfeel and texture with a strong mineral backbone. Drink 2015-2035- 94

Catena

Catena

One of the most famous houses in Argentina, Catena was founded in the 19th century. The founder, Nicola Catena, traveled Italy to Argentina in 1898, celebrated leaving the famine in Europe for this plentiful new land by eating a piece of virtually raw steak for breakfast each morning. Described as an optimist, he firmly believed that he had found the promised land in Mendoza, where he planted his first Malbec vineyard in 1902. Malbec had been a blending grape in Bordeaux but he saw its potential in Mendoza.

Nicola’s son, Nicolaus, took over the winery in the 1960s but was faced with inflation and political turmoil in Argentina, so he took a job as a visiting economics professor at UC Berkeley. He then came back to Argentina and wanted to focus on the winery, deciding to plant Chardonnay and Malbec at a 5,000 feet elevation. This was an unusual vineyard practice at the time but the risk paid off. Soon Nicolaus was crafting incredible wines from these vines that became blind tasted ahead of epic wine projects like Chateau Latour and Opus One. In 2001 Nicolas' daughter Laura took over the Research & Development program at Bodega Catena Zapata. An Emergency Room physician with degrees from Harvard and Stanford, Laura brought a very strong science background to the family winery's R&D project. She immediately set about working with the high altitude Malbec that her father had planted and has achieved incredible success at the winery since taking over.

I was very impressed with the releases from Catena. Particularly their regular releases and Alta Series (Malbec, Chardonnay and Cabernet) offered a very serious value. I’ve had every vintage release of their Malbec back to 2004 and this recent release, the 2013 Malbec, continues to impress. Their high end releases were exceptional, as I rated all three releases at 95 points. These are special occasion wines that command a 100 plus dollar price. Occasionally the Catena Malbec can be found at Costco. But for the others look for these fantastic wines at specialty northwest wine shops such as Esquin, Wine World or Total Wines or online at http://www.catenawines.com Here are the fantastic new releases from Catena #catena #catenawines

2014 Bodega Catena Zapata Chardonnay-This wine comes from a selection of high mountain vineyards including the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation), the Domingo Vineyard (3675 ft elevation) and the Adrianna vineyard (4757 ft). This pale golden hued Chard opens with aromas of butter, cantaloupe and Meyer lemon. There are flavors of ripe honeydew melon, brioche, pear and golden delicious apple. This smooth wine finishes clean. An impressive effort for the price. Drink 2015-2022 -89

2013 Bodega Catena Zapata Alta Chardonnay- This unfined and unfiltered Chard was aged 12-16 months in French oak and was sourced from the Arianna vineyard and the Domingo vineyard. Slightly more golden color than its regular bottling cousin, the 2013 Alta begins with aromas of nutmeg, brioche, mushroom and marzipan. There are flavors of creme brûlée, banana, and golden delicious apple, with a hint of lemon zest, as this is richer more tropical fruit filled than its cousin as well. The texture and viscosity are impressive.  Plenty of stuffing in here for roasted chicken. Drink 2015-2022-92

2013 Bodega Catena Zapata Cabernet-Vines chosen for this wine come from the the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation,  theDomingo vineyard (3675 ft elevation), the Altamira in La Consulta vineyard (3593 ft elevation) and the Adrianna vineyard (4757 ft).Aromas of cedar, cassis, anise and black olive. There are flavors of black olive, black cherry, boysenberry, and minerals. This is delicious and lithe, with nice depth and complexity, considering the price point. Drink 2015-2022-90

 2013 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec- This wine utilizes the Angelica vineyard (3018 ft elevation), the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation), and the Altamira in La Consulta vineyard (3593 ft elevation). The wine opens with aromas of graphite, crushed spring flowers, and red cherry. There are flavors of milk chocolate, anise, creme de cassis and espresso. Delicious and open wine that’s approachable young. Drink 2015-2020-91

2012 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Alta' Malbec- This wine comes from the Angélica vineyard, (3018 ft elevation), Lot 4 from the La Pirámide vineyard, (3117 ft elevation), Lot 2 from the La Consulta vineyard, (3593 ft elevation), and Lots 3 & 9 from the Adrianna vineyard. This was aged 18 months in French oak prior to bottling.Lovely aromas of blackberry, milk chocolate, black cherry. There are flavors of anise, creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and milk chocolate in this smooth and delicious wine. There is a velvety mouthfeel with nice viscosity. This lithe and delicious wine is hard to resist in its youth. Drink 2015-2029-93

2012 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Alta' Cabernet- Winemaker Alejandro Vigil chose vines for this Cabernet from Lot 3 of the La Pirámide vineyard (3117 ft elevation) and Lot 3 from the Domingo vineyard (3675 ft elevation). The wine opens with aromas of anise, blueberry, blackberry preserves and cedar. There are flavors of dill, red bell pepper, blackberry and a long and lingering finish. This polished effort has wonderful terroir. This is an attractive and novel bottling for the price. This one would pair exceptionally well with a high end juicy burger. Drink 2015-2025-93

 2010 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Argentino' Malbec- The wine is a blend of Catena Zapata’s historic Malbec vineyards, Adrianna and Nicasia. The wine is made from the best grapes from the Catena estate vineyards. This dense colored wine opens with incredibly rich aromas of Turkish coffee, mocha, anise and crushed spring flowers. There are flavors of boysenberry preserves, black cherry, espresso bean and a long and lingering finish. Stinking acidity and wonderful richness on the mouthfeel. This is impressive. Drink 2015-2029-95

 2011 Bodega Catena Zapata 'Nicasia Vineyard' Malbec- The Nicasia vineyard is located in the far southerly growing region of Altamira en La Consulta. The grapes are hand-loaded into 225-500 liter new French oak barrels for a 100% barrel fermentation for a period of 15 days. Winemaker Alejandro Vigil ages the wine in French oak barrels for 18 months, followed by 24 months of aging in bottle before release. This wine opens with aromas of boysenberry, Turkish coffee, cedar and rose petals. This layered and complex wine delivers aromas of anise, creme de cassis, mocha and a wonderfully complex and mineral driven palate. This would pair marvelously with a juicy ribeye steak. Drink 2015-2030-95

2010 Bodega CatenaZapata ‘Nicolaus Catena Zapata’ - This is a wonderful blend of 75% Cabernet with 25% Malbec sourced from La Pirámide, Domingo, Adrianna and Nicasia Vineyards and is named after the winery founder, Dr. Nicolás Catena. The 2010 is a massive wine, yet possesses wonderful elegance. It displays a dark, inky color, followed by aromas reminiscent of dark fruits, black cherries, milk chocolate, graphite and hints of sweet oak. On the palate this is richly textured with nice viscosity, leading to delicious flavors of blueberry, blackberry, graphite and milk chocolate. Overall, this is an outstanding wine from winemaker Alejandro Vigil which shows remarkable aging potential and should continue to evolve gracefully over the next two decades, however it will require a few more years of bottle age before it hits its stride. (Best 2017-2030)- 95