Lange Estate Pinot Noir Retrospective

A few months back I had the chance to visit one of the great older houses in Oregon, Lange Estate, which was started by Wendy and Don Lange in 1987. Their son, Jesse has a longstanding history in the wine industry and began helping his parents as a small child. Jesse’s formal winemaking training occurred at New Zealand’s Lincoln University while on a student exchange scholarship from Oregon State in 1999. Jesse then spent two years as cellar rat for winemaker Bruce McGuire at Santa Barbara Winery prior to coming back to his family winery. He joined the winemaking team in 2004 and now serves on the board of the Willamette Valley Wineries Association. Last year Lange opened their new tasting room and I had the chance to visit this beautiful spot, hosted by Wendy and Don. The facility has sweeping views of the Willamette Valley and is a beautiful, highly modern space. For those who have not visited this beautiful new tasting room it is a must-see.

While visiting Lange I had the chance to revisit several older wines and check back with the vintages that I enjoyed when I was first tasting wines from the Willamette Valley. A few things about the vintages that I tried. 2001 was a solid, albeit not spectacular vintage in Oregon. The growing season was excellent and there was very little rain at harvest with weather overall being slightly cool. 2002, on the other hand, is one of my all-time favorite vintages in Oregon as I fondly recall some of the absolutely epic wines that came from this vintage. In 2002 there was a warm and dry growing season and moderate temperatures during harvest produced wines that were not only rich but were full of acidity.

I was blown away with the two older wines shared with me by the Lange family. Both wines were completely different, but in a good way. The 2001 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) had lost much of the acid backbone but showed insanely good range on the palate with marvelous richness. This wine still has several years left. The show-stopper was the 2002 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93) which has another decade left and shows an amazing texture and level of complexity. This revisit is a reminder of how I need many more of these older wines in my cellar. Learn more about this storied Oregon estate at 

 https://www.langewinery.com/ Here are my reviews of the older Pinot Noir wines from Lange Estate.

2001 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir-This Lange Estate wine was first made in 1997. The nose is quite rich with black tea, wild blackberry with wild mushroom aromas. The palate shows a good minerality with black truffle shavings, peat moss, black tea and black cherry flavors. citrus rind. Complex and delicious, this is showing marvelously and still has a few years left so enjoy this while you can. Drink 2019-2022- 91

2002 Lange Estate ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The 2002 vintage saw near perfect growing conditions. The wine is showing marvelously right now. The palate is plush and dense, showing wonderful range and tension. Black fruits, citrus rind, pomegranate seed and black truffle. Complex and delicious, this is right in its sweet spot. The wine shows good mid-palate richness and is nowhere near finished as this will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2028- 93

Big Table Farm

One of the great wineries in Oregon, Big Table Farm is led by the team of Clare Carver and Brian Marcy. Big Table Farm crafts some of the best wines in the Willamette Valley. I first started writing about this winery roughly five years ago and they have been gaining more and more national attention — and rightly so. They have now ventured their wine projects into the Walla Walla Rocks District AVA and have crafted a stunning new stony and savory Syrah. Clare is a hugely talented artist, as her beautiful artwork appears on each bottle. She makes each bottle into a work of art, importing special paper from Italy and then hand-labelling each piece.

Brian Marcy has been steadily making a name for himself as one of the top winemakers in Oregon. Having previously worked at famed California wineries, Marcassan and Neyers, Brian is a soft-spoken, wonderful mind in wine. Be on the lookout for their new entry level Pinot Noir, the 2017 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which sources from a host of great vineyards and is a stunning new bottling that will cellar well for a decade or more. Their new Syrah, the 2016 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Estate’ Syrah (WWB, 95) has a light, stony character and has insane range both aromatically and on the palate. This is a wine that is not to be missed for all serious Pacific Northwest wine collectors. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.

2017 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- This Willamette Valley Chardonnay was sourced from six different sites across the valley. Better aromatically once warmed up a bit, this opens with sourdough bread, vanilla cream, and hints of ripe pineapple. The palate reveals a silky texture with a wonderful combination of ripeness and minerality. Bright nectarine, lemon zest, and pineapple upside down cake flavors all collide once in the mouth. Beautiful now, this great release by superstar winemaker Brian Marcy will continue to develop well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2017 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- Stunning and better than most winery’s top bottlings, the 2017 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is another sensational wine made by one of the most underrated winemakers in North America, Brian Marcy. The nose is seductive and highly perfumed with rose petals, guava puree, cigar ash and suggestions of peat moss that all build in the glass. The wine shows off a downright sexy texture, showing a great combination of weight and minerality. Guava puree, red raspberry cordial, blood orange zest and white truffle flavors all dance on the palate. A seriously good wine, this will continue to cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2017 Big Table Farm ‘Pelos Sandberg Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The Pelos Sandberg Vineyard is carefully managed by Don Sandberg, as I have been captivated with this bottling since Brian Marcy first made this wine. The nose is beautifully perfumed, showing serious aromatic range from peat moss and smoke undertones to ripe strawberry to guava and pomegranate puree with citrus rind accents. These delightful scents bring you back to the glass for more. Showing a silky texture, this beautiful wine glides across the mid-palate. Elegant, yet jam-packed full of red fruit, citrus zest and earthy flavors, this Pinot Noir by Big Table Farm simply has it all. Irresistible now, this will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2019-2033- 95

2016 Big Table Farm ‘The Funk Vineyard’ Syrah- Years ago I spoke with Clare Carver and Brian Marcy about their interest in crafting a wine from the Walla Walla Rocks District. They have sourced their fruit for this wine from one of the great vineyards in this region, owned by Richard Funk of Saviah Cellars. This wine needs a one hour decant to really open aromatically. Once aroused, this awakens to black olive tapenade, bacon fat, umami, and blackberry pie. The palate shows a really good freshness and weight. There is a seamless quality to this elegant Walla Walla Rocks AVA wine. Asian spices, green olive, orange zest, cran-cherry and a dusting of cocoa powder complete this completely sensational new wine. Delicious now, enjoy this great bottling over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 95

Kramer Vineyards

A great historic Oregon winery, Kramer Vineyards was founded in 1983 when Trudy and Keith Kramer acquired their 60 acre property in the Yamhill-Carlton appellation. They eventually planted 22 acres of vines for their estate vineyard and have a wide range of varietals planted including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Müller-Thurgau, Carmine, Muscat, Pinot Meunier and Grüner Veltliner. The Kramer’s daughter, Kim Kramer, serves as winemaker and has been making wine for more than a decade. She has a wealth of experience in the industry, with previous stints in Burgundy as well as St. Innocent. 

Kim makes some beautiful sparkling wines that are astringent and mineral-driven. Look to the beautiful new 2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ (WWB, 91) which comes from a warm vintage and has really beautiful range. The 2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) is a downright killer value at $34.00 and has a wonderful mouthfeel and black fruit flavors. Learn more about this great winery at https://www.kramervineyards.com Here are the great new wines by Kramer Vineyards.

2017 Kramer Vineyards Sparkling Muller Thurgau- This is a highly unusual varietal for a sparkling wine and has highly perfumed nose with honeysuckle alongside ripe pear and nectarine aromas. The palate is downright delicious with a touch of sweetness alongside pear, honeydew melon and starfruit flavors. This novel wine is simply terrific as it has both freshness and refinement. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- The 2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Blanc de Blancs’ opens with aromas of hay, ripe pear and Challah bread. There is a good astringency here as the wine reveals green apple, green papaya and a touch of ginger. Refreshing and razor sharp, this is going to entice the somms — and it is delightful on its own or paired with fresh Kumamoto oysters. I imagine this will pick up wonderful tertiary tones as it ages over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Brut’ Sparkling Wine- A blend of 50% Pinot Noir with 31% Chardonnay and 19% Pinot Meunier, this was disgorged in September 2018. On the nose there is good range from citrus rind to wild mushroom to sourdough bread. The palate is lithe and shows a great astringency. I am most impressed with the long finish that accentuates the beautiful sense of tension and balance in the wine. Highly refreshing, this is another great effort by Kramer Vineyards. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- Showing off a brilliant salmon color, this Rose is primarily Pinot Noir (72%). The nose is quite earthy with peat moss and forest floor that connect with the red fruits. Bright and refreshing, there is a great sense of minerality with bright cran-cherry, blood orange and wild mushroom flavors. Delicious now, this will evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2017 Kramer Vineyards Gruner Veltliner- Quite the unusual bottling for this AVA, the 2017 Kramer Vineyards Gruner Veltliner continues to be one of the more impressive wines of its type in the Pacific Northwest. On the nose this takes on green apple, kumquat and sourdough bread aromas. The palate is lithe and astringent with green apple and kiwi flavors that sit with copious minerals. This will pair marvelously with sushi. Drink 2019-2022- 90

2017 Kramer Vineyards Muller-Thurgau- This bright estate bottling opens with a bouquet of star jasmine with white peach and cantaloupe elements coming on aromatically. The palate is lithe and has a kiss of sweetness with ginger, nectarine and Japanese pear flavors. This is just a fantastic effort by the talented Kim Kramer. Drink 2019-2022- 90

2017 Kramer Vineyards White Pinot Noir- The nose is distinctly earthy with forest floor as well as bright melon and kiwi aromas that connect with citrus blossom undertones. The texture to this wine truly sings. Nectarine, cantaloupe and lychee flavors all connect with the good sense of minerality on the palate. This is another seriously good wine by Kramer Vineyards. Drink 2019-2024- 90

2017 Kramer Vineyard ‘Stainless’ Chardonnay- The ‘Stainless’ Chardonnay is sourced from the Kramer Estate Vineyard, first planted in 1984. Honeydew melon, Challah bread and ripe pear aromas all entice. The palate shows good lip-smacking acidity with bright melon and baked apple flavors that connect with the tension in the wine. This is a terrific wine for a range of shellfish. The long citrus and mineral-driven finish impresses. Drink 2019-2024- 90

2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2016 ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir is a terrific entry level effort from this storied family winery. On the nose this shows good range from cranberry to cola to suggestions of black tea and peat moss. The palate is very elegant and shows a silky mouthfeel. Black tea, blackberry cobbler and citrus rind with wet stone flavors all collide on the palate. A seriously good wine, enjoy this over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from their estate vineyard which is now more than thirty years of age, this opens with a bouquet of white pepper, red currant jelly and suggestions of baking spices with pomegranate seed. Showing a refreshing edge, there is a vibrant minerality to this wine as it unveils lighter red fruit flavors that connect with citrus rind and earthy accents. Lithe and light on its feet, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2016 Kramer Vineyards ‘Heritage’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Heritage’ Pinot Noir is another outstanding wine made by the talented Kim Kramer. This opens with an enticing bouquet of red fruits with citrus rind and a touch of cola on the nose. There is a delicate, soft texture while the wine maintains a sterling acidity. Red currant, pomegranate seed, peat moss and wild blackberry cordial flavors all collide on the palate. Delicious now, this will evolve well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2016 Kramer Vineyards Syrah- Sourced from the Columbia Valley, this opens with bright red and dark fruits with chocolate undertones on the nose. The palate shows good freshness with medium bodied dark and red fruits that mingle with minerals. Drink 2019-2025- 89

Toil Oregon

One of the great Oregon wine projects, Toil Oregon is masterminded by superstar winemaker, Chris Figgins, who was enchanted by Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. A man needing no introduction, Chris has been crafting some of the best wines in Washington for decades at his family winery, Leonetti Cellar. Originally launched in 2012, Toil Oregon started with a production of 200 cases and it has grown considerably since then. The wines are sourced from a host of vineyards in the Willamette Valley and in 2016 Chris planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. I eagerly await wines from that vineyard, 

One thing I have noticed in the past several years is that the quality of the wines has increased as well. My guess is that Chris is becoming more and more familiar with making wines with the sometimes fickle Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grape. I have recently tried an older bottle of Toil Pinot Noir and I found the quality to be excellent but not the upper echelon level that is found in their current release. The 2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) is a simply dazzling new release. Simply put, this Pinot Noir has it all — from beautiful red fruits and citrus notes — to incredible elegance and vibrant minerality. All serious Pacific Northwest collectors should take notice to this gorgeous new release. I was also blown away with the quality of their 2018 Toil Oregon Rose (WWB, 93) which is one of the best Rose wines in North America that I have sampled in the past year. This beautiful wine has an incredible texture and beautiful acidity. It is a gorgeous, stand alone wine that deserves serious attention. Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon.

2018 Toil Oregon Rose- The nose is quite compelling once in the glass, as this beautiful Pinot Noir Rose awakens to unveil pink grapefruit blossom, rose water and red cherry candy aromatics that all mingle in the glass. The palate shows a beautiful texture and weight as this silky, stand along Rose shows a flair of Provence. Blood orange, guava puree and Meyer lemon zest flavors with lighter suggestions of peat moss combine with lip smacking acidity on the palate. The finish lasts for nearly a minute. Exceedingly good, highly poised and satisfying, this classy effort will be enjoyed over the next eight years, picking up tertiary notes as it ages. Drink 2019-2025- 93

2017 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- The 2017 Toil Oregon Chardonnay is a classy effort by superstar winemaker Chris Figgins. Needing an hour decant to be fully aroused, the wine slowly opens with wild mushroom, salted macadamia nut and lemon zest aromas that entice. On the mouth, this shows of a smooth texture with bright lemon rind, wet stone and earthy undertones. The exceedingly long, mineral and lemon zest-driven finish excites. Seriously good now, this will continue to develop over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2017 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir is a simply stunning new wine by this exciting project by Chris Figgins. This great new wine was largely stored in used French oak prior to bottling (31% new). The wine needs roughly a one hour decant to fully develop. Slowly awakening in the glass, the Pinot Noir opens with very pretty aromatics of ripe strawberry, guava puree, red cherry candy and orange rind that all connect on the nose. Silky smooth on the palate, the wine unveils a beautiful mouthfeel that entices. Ripe red fruits dance with wet stone, kumquat and black truffle shaving flavors. There is a seamless quality to this elegant wine. While delicious now, the 2017 Toil Pinot Noir will continue to evolve over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 9

Brooks

One of the finest producers of Riesling in Oregon, Brooks was founded by Jimi Brooks, a Portland native who came to wine through his passion for history and philosophy. Jimi previously worked in Beaujolais, and eventually returned to Oregon to focus on crafting great Riesling and Pinot Noir. Brooks farms twenty acres in the Eola-Amity Hills, a sub-region of the Willamette Valley characterized by higher altitudes and the ocean winds that blow through the Van Duzer Corridor. Head winemaker Chris Williams has previous stops at Maysara and WillaKenzie prior to becoming Brooks head winemaker in 2005. He has become one of the great winemakers for Riesling in North America.

Chris has crafted a seriously good sparkling wine, his 2015 Brooks Sparkling Riesling (WWB, 91) which has just a touch of sweetness and shows really bright acidity. While his overall lineup of Rieslings were stellar across the board, I was particularly blown away with the 2016 Brooks ‘Bois Joli’ Riesling (WWB, 94) which is one of the best Riesling wine I have ever sampled from the Willamette Valley. This wine shows incredible terroir and a gorgeous sense of minerality. Learn more about these beautiful wines at https://www.brookswine.com/ Here are the outstanding new wines by Brooks. 

2015 Brooks Sparkling Riesling- The 2015 Sparkling Riesling is one of the best wines of its kind that I have sampled.  This warm vintage wine was sourced from largely the Hyland Vineyard (60%) as well as the Yamhill (38%) and Orchard Fold Vineyard (2%). The bouquet is quite nice with honeysuckle and lemon zest aromas that build in the glass. A kiss of sweetness hits you with a good astringency considering the heat of the vintage. I can see this unique wine cellaring well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2017 Brooks ‘Ara’ Riesling- The 2017 Brooks ‘Ara’ Riesling is another outstanding effort from Brooks. Made in the ‘Trocken’ style, this shows good tension and astringency on the palate with bright pear and green apple flavors, and earthy undertones, finishing with a great sense of minerality. Drinking marvelously nowm, this will continue to evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2026- 92

2016 Brooks ‘Monk’s Gate Vineyard’ Riesling- Located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, this great Riesling shows petrol with green apple and white flowers that persist on the nose. The palate shows wonderful textbook Brooks freshness with a vibrant minerality. Melon and green apple with wet stone flavors all marvelously combine. Refreshing and drinking marvelously now, this will continue to evolve over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Brooks ‘LaChenaie Vineyard’ Riesling- The ‘LaChenaie Vineyard’ Riesling is another spectacular effort from this estate. Orange blossom and green apple with wet stone accents mark the nose. Slightly sweet, with good astringency, the palate reveals Pink Lady apple, honeydew melon and candied ginger favors with lighter petrol accents. Brilliant now, this will continue to cellar well for a decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Brooks ‘Orchard Fold Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2016 ‘Orchard Fold Vineyard’ Riesling by Brooks is a spectacular effort from this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley.The nose shows good green apple and stony character with suggestions of wild mushroom and kiwi that connect. Made in the ‘Trocken’ style, with just a hint of sweetness, the palate reveals really good energy and verve with lighter citrus rind and green apple flavors with hints of ginger. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Brooks ‘Meyer Vineyard’ Riesling- Located in the Dundee Hills AVA, the ‘Meyer Vineyard’ is set at 800 feet elevation. You can get a touch of sweetness on the nose with the candied ginger and baked apple aromas that connect with lighter earthy tones. The palate is highly refreshing and gratifying, showing very limited sweetness with Granny Smith apple, kiwi and unripe cantaloupe flavors.  This would be a marvelous pairing for sushi. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Brooks ‘Bois Joli Vineyard’ Riesling- This absolutely terrific Eola-Amity Hills AVA vineyard wine shows bright pear and green papaya aromas that connect with lighter stony character on the nose. The palate is highly refreshing and delivers gobs of mouth-watering acidity with bright pear, Granny Smith apple, kumquat and cantaloupe with wet stone flavors. A delight to savor, this will continue to evolve well fort the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 Brooks ‘Muska Vineyard’ Riesling- Located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the Muska Vineyard is farmed by Carl Muska and is set at roughly 500 feet. The nose shows brilliant wet stone and peat moss character alongside melon and green apple aromatics. With the slightest bit of sweetness, the wine revals bright kiwi and pear flavors that connect with the wet stone and earthy accents on the palate. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Brooks ‘Cahiers’ Riesling- Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards, the ‘Cahiers’ is an awesome new Riesling by Chris WIlliams. On the nose this shows green apple with petrol and sweetened melon aromas that build in the glass. The palate reveals a Kabinett style of sweetness with candied ginger, melon and bright pear flavors with a touch of wet stone. Bright and downright delicious now, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 93

2016 Brooks ‘Sweet P’ Riesling- The ‘Sweet P’ as it suggests, shows some moderate sweetness on the nose with honey and bright pear aromas that impress. The palate is bright and shows some Spatlase level sweetness with sweetened pear, melon and bright starfruit flavors with a good sense of tension. This is an excellent effort by Brooks. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2017 Brooks ‘Brooks Estate Vineyard’ Riesling- Set in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the ‘Brooks Estate Vineyard’ is perched at 650 feet. The nose shows really good range from ginger to exotic spice to baked apple and lighter stony character that carry this beautiful Riesling. With a hint of sweetness, the palate reveals really good freshness with bright kiwi, ginger, starfruit and wet stone flavors. Mineral-driven and showing really good tension, this bright effort will continue to evolve over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 93

2017 Brooks ‘Totality’ Riesling- Named after the 2017 full eclipse, the 2017 ‘Totality’ is a stunning new wine by Brooks. Intensely perfumed, this offers fragrant white peach, candied ginger and bright Japanese pear aromatics that build in the glass. The palate offers dazzling minerality with bright pear, wild mushroom, green apple and kiwi flavors that all marvelously combine. Intense and layered, this beautiful wine will continue to evolve over the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 93

Chateau de Beaucastel

A famed house the southern Rhone region of France, Chateau de Beaucastel produces some of the finest Chateauneuf du Pape in the world. Everyone who has tried this wine can think back to their first bottle of Chateau de Beaucastel. I recall my first one while I was in college, enjoying the absolutely epic 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel. I remember the stunning combination of weight and tension in the bottle — one that literally begs you to enjoy more. The region of Chateauneuf du Pape has an incredible history and was was first mentioned in 11th century historical records. The town of Avignon in this region was the previous site of the papacy, following a Roman invasion. Bertrand de Got, archbishop of Bordeaux, was elected pope in 1305, and took the name of Clement V as he transferred the papacy from Rome to Avignon in 1309. The register of pontifical letters reveals that Clement V visited Châteauneuf on several occasions, sometimes for long periods of time.

It is quite clear that wine had some influence in this region before the arrival of the papacy but there are no actual historical records of wine or vineyards prior to this time. We do know that most of the wine grown in this region prior to the 18th century was drunk within a year, which was true to the cultural times. It wasn’t until 1923 when local wine producers led the way to have their wines classified as Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) was formed.

Chateau de Beaucastel has a longstanding history in Chateauneuf du Pape. The winery is named after the Beaucastel family which lived in this region in the 16th century. Records show a Pierre de Beaucastel buying a barn and some associated land at Coudoulet in 1549, and this land is still part of Château de Beaucastel's holdings. In the 19th century, when the Phylloxera epidemic struck the region, the owner decided not to replant the vineyards but rather to sell the property. In 1909, it was bought by Pierre Tramier, and the vineyards were rebuilt under his ownership. After him, his son-in-law Pierre Perrin took over management and expanded Château de Beaucastel's vineyard holdings considerably. The property has stayed in the Perrin family since.

In the past I have had the great fortune to sample some very old bottlings of this estate, back to 1990. These wines are extremely complex, acid driven and age-worthy. Chateau de Beaucastel is one of the few wineries that uses 13 different Rhone varietals in its Châteauneuf du Pape, and typically uses a high proportion of Mourvèdre. I was very impressed with the vertical tasting, as these wines show as well as any other estate in Chateauneuf du Pape. They also produce a highly sought after white wine which is largely a blend of 80% Roussanne (80%) as well as 5% Grenache Blanc with the remaining 5% coming from an assemblage of Clairette, Bourboulenc and Picardan. 

I was absolutely blown away with their new release Blanc, the 2016 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc (WWB, 96) which has a hedonistic texture and is incredibly layered. This is one for the cellar. I have had a chance to revisit some of the more recent releases of Chateau de Beaucastel and have been absolutely delighted to see how they are showing. The 2014 Chateau de Beaucastel (WWB, 96), is a wine of incredible terroir, power and finesse. Quite simply, this is Beaucastel at its best with its incredible range of green peppercorns, Provencale herbs and dark fruits. This massive wine will evolve gracefully for decades. Learn more about Chateau de Beaucastel at http://www.beaucastel.com/en/ Here are the beautiful new releases wines and older vintages of Chateau de Beaucastel. 

2016 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc- The 2016 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a stunning new wine from this famed estate in Chateauneuf du Pape. Needing more than an hour decant to fully develop, this pear colored wine starts off with beeswax, brandy soaked pear, nutmeg, and ripe banana that impress on the nose. The intoxicating bouquet brings you back to the glass for more delight. Once in the mouth, the unctuous mouthfeel entices the senses. Silky smooth gliding through the palate, flavors reminiscent of baked pear, marzipan, banana bread and honeydew melon move through, leading to an exceeding long and satisfying finish. The salinity and light stony character of the wine further pushes this into the upper echelon of this prestigious region in the Rhone Valley. Enjoyable now, this wine will cellar well for decades. Drink 2019-2038- 96

2015 Chateau de Beacastel Chateauneuf du Pape- The 2015 Chateau de Beaucastel is a stunning wine which has utilized all 13 varietals that are allowed in Chateauneuf du Pape. The wine needs roughy a one hour decant to fully show its potential. The Beaucastel shows off a stunning nose of coffee grounds, green peppercorn, blackberry jam, herbs de provence, with bacon fat with underlying suggestions of wet stone. Firm and focused, the wine delivers delicious blackberry cordial, black olive tapenade, Umami and crushed wet stone flavors. The combination of richness and freshness here makes this wine simply irresistible. While this is marvelous now, the wine has many decades ahead of it. Drink 2019-2040- 96

2014 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape- The 2014 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape has evolved considerably since its release roughly two years ago and is utterly delicious at this point in its evolution. The wine shows best following a one hour decant. Once aroused this beautiful wine opens with a bright bouquet of Provencale herbs, green peppercorns, cigar box and copious dark fruits that all marvelously mingle together in the glass. Deep and seductive, the wine has a gloriously rich texture and a silky smooth mouthfeel as it gracefully glides across the mid-palate. The wine unveils intense flavors of green olive tapenade, red currant, bacon fat, blackberry cobbler and green peppercorn with herbal and peat moss undertones that build on the palate. The combination of weight and minerality is stunning here. Highly pleasurable now, the wine will have an exceedingly long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2040- 96

Bodega Catena Zapata

One of the iconic houses out of Argentina, Bodega Catena Zapata can be traced back more than a century to Nicola Catena, an Italian immigrant, who planted his first vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina in 1902. Owned today by Nicolás Catena and his daughter Dr. Laura, Bodega Catena Zapata produces some of the finest wines out of Argentina. A trained economist, Nicolás began working hard to improve wine quality at his estate in the 1980s as these wines became highly acclaimed by wine critics near and far. 

One of the major reasons for the increase in quality was Nicolas’s bold decision to plant both Chardonnay and Malbec at a 5,000 feet elevation. This was an unusual vineyard practice at the time but the risk paid off. Soon Nicolas was crafting incredible wines from these vines. In 2001 Nicolas' daughter Dr. Laura Catena took over the Research & Development program at Bodega Catena Zapata. An Emergency Room physician, with degrees from Harvard and Stanford, Dr. Laura Catena brought a very strong science background to the family winery's R&D project. She immediately set about working with the high altitude Malbec that her father had planted and has achieved incredible success at the winery since taking over.

The new releases from Catena and their talented winemaker, Alejandro Vigil, were gorgeous across the board. One of the great Chardonnays that I have tasted from Argentina, the 2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘White Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) has incredible texture and freshness with a Chablis-like character.  I was totally blown away with the 2014 Bodega Catena Zapata ’Nicolas Catena’ Red Wine (WWB, 95) which shows a seriously good combination of elegance and weight. This massive wine will cellar well for two decades. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.catenawines.com Here are the gorgeous new releases from Catena

2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘White Stones Adrianna Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘White Stones’ Chardonnay by Bodega Catena Zapata is a stunning new wine that was sourced from select 27 rows within Block 1 of the Adrianna Vineyard. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak puncheons prior to bottling. On the nose this shows gorgeous salinity with wet stone and bright Meyer lemon zest aromas that build in the glass. The palate shows incredible freshness and intensity with lemon rind, vanilla creme brûlée and gorgeous stony character. A complete wine, this impressive effort would pass for a top Chablis. Enjoyable now, this will continue to cellar well over the next decade as this is a stunning new wine by the talented Alejandro Vigil. Drink 2019-2029- 94

2016 Bodega Catena Zapata  Cabernet Sauvignon- The Catena Cabernet Sauvignon begins with aromas of mocha, anise, sandalwood and suggestions of baking spices that all impress. The palate shows good richness and intensity with excellent poise. Good terroir and dark fruits fill the palate, with a chocolate edge. Delicious now, this will cellar well for the next eight to ten years. Drink 2019-2026- 90

2016 Bodega Catena Zapata  Malbec- The 2016 Catena Malbec shows really beautiful typicity at this time. Smoky undertones with white pepper and dark chocolate aromas all connect in the glass. The palate shows good richness with blueberry compote, mocha, anise and creme de cassis flavors. Delicious now, this will cellar well for the next decade. Drink 2019-2028- 91

2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Alta’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Alta’ Cabernet Sauvignon by Catena starts off with dark fruits on the nose with chocolate fudge and a whiff of smoke. The soft texture really entices, as does the blackberry jam, coffee ground and anise flavors with a touch of fennel. A delight to enjoy right now, this will continue to cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2031- 92

2016 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Alta’ Malbec- Sourced from the Angélica, La Pirámide, Nicasia and Adrianna vineyards, the 2016 ‘Alta’ Malbec by Catena is a stunning new wine that beautifully showcases this special terroir. On the nose the wine slowly unveils espresso bean, anise, dark chocolate shavings and shades of blueberry pie that all fill the glass. The texture to this wine is exceedingly good, delivering a nice sense of decadence. Mocha, blueberry compote, cassis and sandalwood flavors all marvelously amalgamate. Rich and layered, this is drinking well in its youth but will continue to develop over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 93

2015 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘D.V. Catena Tinto Historico’ Red Wine- The ‘D.V. Catena Tinto Historico’ is a gorgeous blend of largely Malbec (72%) with smaller portions Bonarda (21%) and Petit Verdot (7%). Showing off its inky core, the wine awakens to green peppercorn, milk chocolate and blueberry compote aromas that impress. The palate has a good degree of freshness and richness. Milk chocolate malt balls, blueberry pie, anise and green bell pepper flavors all impress. Enjoyable now, this will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2032- 92

2014 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Nicolas Catena Zapata’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Nicolas Catena Zapata’ is a gorgeous blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Malbec, as this wine was first made with the 1997 vintage. Sourced from the La Pirámide Vineyard (3,117 ft) as well as the Nicasia Vineyard (3,593 feet) and the Adrianna Vineyard (4,747 feet) the wine starts off with a gorgeous bouquet of dark currant, blackberry pie, mocha and spicecake that all marvelously combine in the glass. The dazzling minerality and texture to the wine really creates a seductive edge to this beautiful wine. Blueberry pie, black tea, Asian spices and dark chocolate shaving flavors all come together as the long, mineral and dark fruit driven finish delivers a lasting effect. Delicious now, be sure to give this a two hour decant if enjoying in its youth. Drink 2020-2040- 95

2014 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae’ Malbec- Fortuna Terrae is translated as ‘luck of the land’ in Latin, and those who sample this wine can also consider themselves lucky. This gorgeous effort shows an intense bouquet of nutmeg, milk chocolate and blubbery pie with hints of dark currants. The sense of refinement and silky texture to this wine is truly outstanding. Dark and blue fruits line this wine with a milk chocolate edge. The finish is exceedingly long and gratifying.  This is truly Argentinian Malbec at its best by superstar winemaker Alejandro Vigil. Try to resist this stunning wine for another year at least. Drink 2020-2040- 96

2015 Bodega Catena Zapata ‘Argentino’ Malbec- The ‘Argentino’ Malbec is a stunning wine by the talented Alejandro Vigil that was sourced from the Catena Zapata Family Vineyards, Nicasia and Angélica Vineyards. This inky colored Malbec was aged in French oak for 18 months prior to bottling. The wine opens with an intense bouquet of Asian spice, mocha, blueberry pie and suggestions of graphite. The texture and mouthfeel to this wine is sumptuous. Black tea, blackberry cobbler, crushed mint and mocha with ripe blueberry flavors all marvelously come together. Seductive and showing good poise, this excellent wine will continue to cellar well for twenty years. Drink 2019-2040- 95

Airfield Estates

Getting towards the end of a great Washington Wine Month, we bring you a fantastic producer of everything from Viognier to Syrah to dessert wine. Airfield Estates is one of the older wineries in the Yakima Valley, located in Prosser. The Miller family has a longstanding history in the valley, as in 1951 H. Lloyd Miller became the chairman of the Roza Irrigation Canal Board, and began farming on his property, Airport Ranch, where the winery now sits. His son, Don, took over the estate, planing a range of crops including asparagus, alfalfa, potatoes, onions, oats, hogs, cattle, mint, and sugar beets. In 1968, Don planted Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Cabernet Sauvignon marking the early beginnings of the Airfield Estate vineyard.

Don’s son, Mike Miller, gradually transitioned our farm into what it is today which consists of 830 acres of wine grapes and 350 acres of Concord juice grapes. In 2005, Mike founded Airfield Estates Winery, and he brought his son, Marcus, and daughter, Lori, on board to help manage the daily operations. 

Marcus Miller has served as winemaker for Airfield Estates, and he is a fantastic, down to earth guy. He is producing some excellent wines that ‘fly’ under the radar. Marcus has previously internet at Canoe Ridge in Walla Walla, also worked as a winemaker at Tsillan Cellars in Chelan. His new release wines were really good across the board,. Check out the beautiful 2016 Airfield Estates Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 90) which is a killer bargain at a mere $18.00. This wine shows good richness and wonderful herbal tones. I really enjoyed the 2016 Airfield Estates Red Wine (WWB, 91) which is mainly Cabernet and Merlot and shows really good balance and forward red fruit flavors. Learn about this great historic Yakima Valley winery at http://www.airfieldwines.com Here are the great new wines by Airfield Estates.

2016 Airfield Estates ‘Bombshell Red’ Red Wine- This wine shows copious dark fruits on the nose with tar and sagebrush accents. The palate is ripe, showing good acidity and bright dark and blue fruit flavors with a touch of citrus rind. This is an excellent value effort by Airfield Estates. Drink 2019-2024- 89

2015 Airfield Estates Syrah- The nose takes on dark fruits with chocolate and Asian spices. The sense of place and balance on the palate is lovely. Dark cherry, roasted date and milk chocolate flavors impress. I can see the Syrah cellaring well for a decade as this is a fantastic effort by the talented Marcus Miller. Drink 2019-2024- 90

2016 Airfield Estates Red Wine- Mainly Cabernet and Merlot, this shows a deep color and reveals beautiful dark cherry cordial, cassis and mocha aromatics in the glass. The palate is dense and open, with extremely light tannins. Dark cherry, coffee grounds and chocolate fudge flavors come to mind. Decadent and delicious, this is another great effort by Airfield Estates. Drink 2019-2024- 91

2016 Airfield Estates ‘Dauntless’ Red Wine- The ‘Dauntless’ is Airfield Estate’s right back style red wine. Immediately you are drawn to the lovely herbal tones of the wine. Sagebrush and red bell pepper aromatics come to mind with red fruits connecting nicely. The palate shows a silky mouthfeel, with red currant, red cherry candy and Christmas spice flavors. Drink 2018-2024- 90

2016 Airfield Estates Cabernet Sauvignon-The wine shows good herbaceousness on the nose with sagebrush and wild thyme that connects with blackberry cordial on the nose. The palate is open and round, not showing any tannins. Black and red fruits mingle with chocolate undertones. This is really well-done. Drink 2019-2024- 90

2015 Airfield Estates ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon - The 2015 Airfield Estates ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a seriously good wine made by Marcus Miller. Creme de cassis, Turkish coffee and blueberry compote aromatics fill the glass and entice. The palate is round and generous, as the wine shows graphite, anise, creme de cassis and dark chocolate cake flavors. While this is delicious now, the wine will cellar well for another decade. Drink 2019-2028- 91

2015 Airfield Estates Merlot- Forward and plush, the 2015 Airfield Estates Merlot reveals good dark fruit flavors with a touch of chocolate. This shows good poise considering the obvious heat of the vintage. Drink 2019-2024- 89

2014 Airfield Estates ‘Reserve’ Merlot- The nose takes on tar and smoky undertones with dark fruits and coffee grounds that connect in the glass. The palate shows good depth and richness, showing off black teal, anise, cassis and milk chocolate flavors. This is downright delicious. Drink 2019-2028- 91

Interview with Morgan Lee, Head Winemaker of Block Wines

A few years back I had the chance to interview one of the nicest guys in the Washington Wine industry, Morgan Lee, the talented winemaker at Two Vintners. Morgan crafts some beautifully balanced wines for that winery and has more recently partnered with Paul Zitarellii to craft Block Wines, a winery that focuses on crafting their wines from individual vineyard blocks. They utilize some of the great vineyards in the state, including the Boushey Vineyard as well as the Rothrock Vineyard and Morgan’s expressions of these vineyards are truly outstanding. Here is my interview with Morgan Lee, winemaker at Block Wines.

WWB: How did you connect with Paul Zitarelli and start Block Wines?

ML: I had a pretty psychedelic dream about this actually. Paul and I didn’t know each other that well at the time but I had this dream that I had a tasting room in his house which was on Bainbridge Island in the woods. Paul was there but people were drinking and there was a commotion out in the Sound and Paul wanted us to check it out. He drove his house into the water so the house was now part-boat. We saw whales and dolphins playing in the Sound. We checked all that out and then drove the house back into the woods. The dream was so vivid I had to send Paul an email of the dream. He told me later he almost didn’t open the email because he thought it might be spam. He told me the dream was surreal because he lives on Bainbridge Island in the woods. He mentioned to me that he was considering starting this project for Full Pull, so everything started with a dream, literally. Paul pitched the idea that he wanted to have a house brand that were single varietal, single vineyard and single block wines. And from that Block Wines was born.

WWB: How do you see these wines being different from your Two Vintners wines?

ML: I think that the aging and the winemaking process is all different. And some of the varietals are different, like I don’t make Semillon for Two Vintners. I certainly do have single vineyard wines for Two Vintners, but for the most part there a degree of blending. There are differences between the wines, for instance, the Block Wines Semillon is 100% concrete egg fermented which is made reductively and is fairly strong smelling throughout the aging process. I don’t really make a wine like that for Two Vintners.

WWB: I was absolutely enchanted by your 2017 Semillon, sourced from the Boushey Vineyard  and their 'Tauro Block.’ Can you talk about this amazing new wine?

ML:  This is a wine that we tend to pick at super high acid levels and very early on during harvest. We love the Australian Semillon wines from the Hunter Valley and we like to use native yeasts for our fermentation process. The Semillon has three days of skin contact which helps give the wine that extra color and texture. Then we age the Semillon in concrete. The block is called Tauro, is right next to their neighbors place and that is a north-facing aspect which makes the grapes a bit slower to ripen. We wanted to keep the wine picked at 19-20 brix so we have that freshness in the wine. In 2017 we only produced one egg of the wine, or 189 gallons.

WWB: One of the great value wines that I sampled last year that landed on my Washington Wine Blog Top 100 Wines of 2019 was your 2016 Block Wines ‘Golden Block Boushey Vineyard’ Grenache, a wine that was highly refined and had a silky texture. This wine is almost Walla Walla Rocks AVA in nature. Can you talk about the winemaking behind this epic value wine?

ML: There is a very small block of Grenache that the Bousheys grow is located near my Grenache Blanc. I believe this block used to go to Maison Bleue. It is only four rows so a half an acre and it is VR3 Grenache clone. But Dick [Boushey] has told me that this is an Italian derived clone of Grenache.  The clone tends to be very thin skinned and almost looks like a Pinot Noir. There is very little tannin to this clone and also very little pigment. It is slow to ripen and I usually pick the Grenache in mid-October but the bunches are so tight you have to worry about moisture. We get the entire block and about half of it goes to Paul and half of it goes to my wine projects. The wine is native yeast fermented. The wine was also 50% whole cluster fermented in open top one ton bins. Punchdowns are done once or twice a day and after 17 days of maceration the wine was pressed directly into the concrete egg and then it was aged for 18 months prior to bottling. It is a really cool wine that we have and it is really showing nicely right now. If I do the wine blind half of the time they guess that it is Pinot Noir. I think that Juan at Columbia Crest says that ‘Grenache is Washington’s Pinot Noir’ and I couldn’t agree more.

WWB: What wines have you been gravitating towards recently?

ML: I have been trying too find inspirational bottles of Cru Beaujolais. Because. I would love to plant Gamay someday at our estate. Mostly my wife and I have been enjoying white wines lately and I have always had a love affair with Alsatian wines so definitely pick those up when I can. Producers like Domaine Zind-Humbrect would be one that I could drink something every day for the rest of my life. With my schedule I don’t have a chance to spend a ton of time seeking things out but I am in a tasting  group with Chris Peterson and Bob Betz and we just did Grand Cru Burgundy and are doing Chateauneuf du Pape next month so that is good learning for me. I always love trying what my peers are doing, especially those who are working with similar vineyards. I am always thrilled to taste what Chris Peterson is doing because we get similar fruit to see h ow our styles are different. His ‘Valery’ at Avennia is at the top of my list. He doesn’t make the wine anymore but for a few years he made ‘Discovery Vineyard’ Syrah so I had a chance to taste that and we did a. Side. By side with the 2016 vintage Syrah from both of us. That was really cool. I love Oregon wines as well. Pinot Noir is one of those things where you are dropping a good amount of money to try something great.

a’Maurice Cellars

As we continue the final week of Washington Wine Month, we bring you one of the great boutique wineries out of Walla Walla. A’Maurice Cellars is a winery dedicated to Maurice Schafer who built one of the largest and most successful timber companies in the Pacific Northwest. The Schafers, Tom and Kathleen, created the first registered sustainable vineyard in Washington State as Tom Schafer spent several years surveying the Walla Walla Valley, until he found the perfect land for his vineyard — a south-facing parcel located up Mill Creek. 

Tom and Kathleen Shafter’s daughter, Anna Schafer, serves as aMaurice winemaker. She is a highly talented and has worked previously under superstar winemaker Paul Hobbs's Viña Cobos in both 2006 and 2007.  Anna crafts beautiful wines across the board —  from Syrah to Viognier. Her winemaking style artfully walks the tight rope between elegance and viscosity. Look to the 2017 aMaurice Cellars ‘Sparrow’ Viognier (WWB, 92) which shows brilliant weight and minerality. The ‘Sparrow’ is one of the great Viognier wines of Washington. I adored the 2014 a'Maurice Cellars ‘Night Owl’ Red Wine (WWB, 93) which is rich and drinking marvelously now but has a decade or more left in the cellar. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.amaurice.com Here are the excellent new wines from a’Maurice Cellars

2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Sparrow’ Viognier- This estate Viognier shows intense aromas of banana, roasted pineapple and lychee with hints of vanilla cream. The palate is bright, showing a rich mouthfeel. Pineapple upside down cake, lemon zest and with buttercream flavors all nicely combine. This is seriously good Viognier. Drink 2018-2024- 92

2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Columbia Valley’ Viognier- The nose shows green apple, kumquat and lemon zest aromatics that build in the glass. Lithe and light on its feet, the wine reveals bright green apple, green papaya and unripe cantaloupe flavors. This is best enjoyed on a hot summer day. Drink 2019-2023- 91

2017 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Marsanne- The nose is reminiscent of beeswax, mango and hints of unripe papaya. The palate is lithe and refreshing, showing a brilliant minerality. Cantaloupe, white peach and beeswax flavors all nicely combine. This is highly satisfying. Drink 2019-2022- 90

2016 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Grenache- This shows brighter aromas ranging from blood orange to rose water to ripe red cherry candy. The palate reveals a silky texture. Round and generous the wine reveals bright red fruits with citrus and wild mushroom undertones. Forward and intense, enjoy this over the next five plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2016 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Boushey Vineyard’ Syrah- This wine was sourced from the esteemed Boushey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. The wine shows nice smoky tones on the nose with with red and dark fruits and herbal undertones. The palate shows good freshness with blackberry pie, sagebrush and smoked brisket flavors. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2015 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Fred’ Syrah- Sourced from their estate vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley, this begins with aromas reminiscent of smoke, tar, citrus rind and black fruits with lighter earthy tones. Lithe and light on its feet, this shows good mid-palate weight as the wine reveals black tea, blackberry cobbler, orange rind and earthy undertones. This is drinking nicely right now. Drink 2019-2026- 92

2014 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Artist Series’ Red Wine- This is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon with 37% Cabernet Franc. The nose is quite earthy from the Cabernet Franc with sage and red belll pepper with cedar and dark fruit aromas that build i the glass. There is a good sense of balance with black tea, licorice and blackberry cobbler alongside light earthy tones. There is a good sense of balance here. Drink 2019-2026- 92

2015 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Artist Series’ Red Wine- This is a blend of 38% Cabernet Sauvignon with 37% Merlot, and 25% Cabernet Franc. The nose opens with sandalwood with black tea and blackberry aromas with red bell pepper. The palate is lithe, showing medium bodied black tea, milk chocolate and boysenberry cordial flavors. Drink 2019-2026- 91

2014 a'Maurice Cellars ‘Night Owl’ Red Wine- This Bordeaux style wine is a blend of 43% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. The nose is quite powerful with sagebrush, black tea, mocha and copious dark fruits that all impress. The mouthfeel is plush, bordering decadent. Black tea, Asian spice, blueberry compote and chocolate covered blackberry flavors. Delicious now, this has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2028- 93

2015 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Night Owl’ Red Wine- The 2015 a’Maurice Cellars ‘Night Owl’ is an intriguing blend of 32% Merlot, 30% Petit Verdot, 28% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose shows sandalwood with black fruits and red bell pepper. The palate is well-balanced with black fruits that connect with chocolate and herbal undertones. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 92 

Vital Winery

Today as part of Washington Wine Month we bring you a brilliant new Washington winery project by the talented Ashley Trout. Vital Winery partners with a host of other wine industry entities, from coopers to other wineries, and amazingly all of the Vital Wines profits go to the SOS Clinic, a free, non-profit health care clinic in the Walla Walla area dedicated to helping all people receive free healthcare. I can’t think of any other Pacific Northwest winery that focuses on giving to this level. This is not only a visionary project but the new wines are seriously good. Ashley Trout got her start in the Washington wine industry at age 18. A fellow Whitman graduate, I had the chance to interview her last month as she was a delight to speak with. Last year she was she was named by Wine Enthusiast as one of ‘the top 40 under 40 tastemakers.’

One of the outstanding new Rose wines I have sampled at this price point, the 2018 Vital Winery Rose (WWB, 90) utilizes Sangiovese and shows very delicate red fruit flavors with a really good texture. I also really enjoyed their 2016 Vital Winery ‘GSM’ Red Wine (WWB, 91) which shows nice smoky tones and dark fruit flavors. Learn more about this great new project winery at https://www.vitalwinery.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Vital Wines.

2018 Vital Winery Rose- The 2018 Vital Wines Rose is an intriguing blend of 85% Sangiovese, 8% Cinsaut, 6% Mourvedre with a touch of Counoise. Red fruits and red rose aromatics dominate the nose with lighter citrus rind undertones. Bright, showing a lovely soft mouthfeel, the wine impresses with its silky texture. A downright steal, showing copious red fruits and sterling acidity, enjoy this on a hot summer day. Drink 2019-2023- 90

2016 Vital Winery ‘GSM’ Red Wine- The 2016 Vital Wines ‘GSM’ is a compelling blend of 45% Mourvedre, 36% Grenache, and 19% Syrah, all sourced from the Columbia Valley. On the nose this offers heady aromatics of smoked meats, green olive tapenade and blackberry cobbler. The palate has a good combination of poise and weight with black tea, Asian spice, blackberry pie and milk chocolate, with smoky undertones. Downright delicious now, this will continue to evolve well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2024- 91

Clos Triguedina

Happy Friday to you all. Today we jaunt to the Cahors region in France, located roughly between Bordeaux and Toulouse. A winery with a rich tradition, Clos Triguedina was formed in 1830 and spans seven generations of the Baldès family. It is a domain with a rich history: one where the Pilgrims of St Jacques de Compostela would often stop to revive themselves (“Me triga de dina” means “I am longing to dine” in Occitan). Located in the the center of the Cahors region, Jean-Luc Baldes has gained an international reputation for producing top Malbec wines at Clos Triguedina. The estate comprises 65 hecatares covering 2nd, 3rd and 4th terraces. Vines are set in clay and limestone, as well as The winery produces a range of wines including their  ‘New Black Wine,’ as well as their beautifully decadent ‘Probus’, the three new Premier Crus, all offering considerable intrigue. Winemaker Jean-Luc Baldes  has been producing wine on his family property for thirty years. He and his wife, Sabine, 

Baldes has crafted a brilliant new lineup of wines. I was quite impressed with their 2012 Clos Triguedina ‘The New Black Wine’ Cahors (WWB, 90) which is quite forward with deep dark fruit flavors and shows marvelously right now. The top wine I sampled was their brilliant 2008 Clos Triguedina ‘Probus’ Cahors (WWB, 93) which is rich and layered, showing a wonderful combination of dark and blue fruit flavors. Learn more about this famed Cahors estate at https://www.jlbaldes.com/en/histoire-dune-famille Here are the beautiful new wines by Clos Triguedina. 

2013 Clos Triguedina ‘Clos Triguedina’ Cahors- Needing roughly a one hour decant to fully express itself, this starts off with a bouquet of anise, fennel, and black currant with coffee ground accents. The palate shows a good degree of freshness and energy with dark fruits connecting with lighter blueberry compote and coffee ground flavors. This is an excellent effort that will cellar well for the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2012 Clos Triguedina The New Black Wine’ Cahors- Showing off its dark hue, the wine opens with dark and blue fruits with light mocha and earthy tones that build on the nose. The palate has a smooth texture and ripe mouthfeel. Blackberry cobbler, dark chocolate shavings and shades of wild mushroom flavors all marvelously combine on the palate. Rich and layered, enjoy this excellent value wine in the short-term. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2008 Clos Triguedina ‘Probus’ Cahors- The ‘Probus’ Cahors is a sensational new wine that marvelously expresses the best of this grape and region. On the nose this shows a good combination of blue and dark fruits with lighter Arabica coffee bean notes that all impress. The mouthfeel is voluptuous and marvelously coats the mid-palate. Rich dark cherry, mocha, anise and creme de cassis flavors with blueberry compote all collide on the palate and connect with a sterling minerality. While delicious now, this will continue to drink well for the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2035- 93

2013 Clos Triguedina ;Au Coin du Bois’ Cahors- Nice earthy tones fill the nose with black fruits and chocolate accents coming into play aromatically.  The palate shows good balance with dark fruits that mingle with minerals and damp earth flavors. Showing good richness and minerality, this will continue to cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2013 Clos Triguedina ‘Les Galets’ Cahors- The ‘Les Galets’ shows marvelous earthy tones on the nose with dark fruits and a lighter stony character that all build in the glass. The palate is linear, delivering good freshness and medium-bodied dark fruit flavors. Refined and delicious now, this will continue to cellar well for the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2032- 92

2013 Clos Triguedina ‘Petites Calles’ Cahors- The ‘Petites Calles’ shows a host of dark fruit aromas with cedar and peat moss aromas that combine with lighter citrus rind tones on the nose. The palate shows good freshness with moderate tannins. Dark fruits mingle with a good sense of minerality on the palate. The balance and poise here is seriously good in this elegant Cahors. Drink 2019-2029- 92

Chateau St. Jean

One of my favorite stops in Sonoma and truly one of the state’s most beautiful wineries, I first visited Chateau St. Jean in 2003. I was immediately overcome with the natural beauty of the surrounding area — the serene gardens that line the winery and the gorgeous deck that looks out over the valley. If you have never visited the winery, I implore you to taste these amazing wines in the relaxing setting. Founded in 1973, Chateau St. Jean has been best known for producing top Chardonnay and Cabernet. Head winemaker, Margo Van Staaveren, uses more than 30 years of vineyard and winemaking expertise with Chateau St. Jean to highlight the best of each vineyard in the wines. She is one of the top Chardonnay winemakers in the state and I sampled her 2013 Chateau St. Jean ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) for Christmas this year as the wine was a decadent and dense treat, showing marvelous tertiary notes at this stage in evolution.

Margo has made a great new Pinot Noir, her 2016 Chateau St. Jean ‘Le Seul’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) which has wonderful richness and a great salinity. I absolutely loved their new 2015 Chateau St. Jean ‘Cinq Cepages’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) which is one of the best Cinq Cepages wines that I have sampled in the past fifteen years. Learn more about this great winery at chateaustjean.com Here are some of the great wines that I have recently sampled from Chateau St. Jean. 

2016 Chateau St. Jean Sparkling Wine- Entirely made from Chardonnay grapes, this shows a bouquet of nutmeg and allspice with brilliant Pink Lady apple and kumquat on the nose. The palate shows sweetened apple and apricot flavors with a touch of toasted macadamia nut. Enjoy this in the short-term. Drink 2018-2022- 88

2016 Chateau St. Jean ‘Crisp’ Chardonnay- This opens with buttered brioche with hints of marzipan and lemon cream. Slightly sweet, this shows good poise with toasty oak, and lemon cream flavors. Enjoy this excellent value Chardonnay in the short-term. Drink 2019-2023- 89

2016 Chateau St. Jean ‘Creamy’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Creamy’ Chardonnay opens with caramel, and Challah bread with lighter lemon zest aromas that fill the glass. A touch sweet, this shows pear and heavy whipping cream flavors. Drink 2019-2023- 87

2016 Chateau St. Jean  Chardonnay- This wine opens with nutmeg, roasted hazelnut and heavy whipping cream on the nose. The palate has a good combination of weight and balance with lemon cream, macadamia nut and a long, buttery and mineral-laced finish. Drink 2019-2024- 89

2016 Chateau St. Jean ‘Gap’s Crown’ Chardonnay- Located only a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, the Gap’s Crown Vineyard is one of the great sites in the Sonoma Coast for Chardonnay. On the nose this shows some good range from biscuit to kumquat to bright Japanese pear aromas that impress. The palate has a good combination of weight and freshness with Meyer lemon cream, hazelnut, brioche and a long, cream and mineral-driven finish that lasts for nearly a minute. Seriously good, this will have a long life in the cellar. Drink 2019-2030- 92

2016 Chateau St. Jean ‘Le Seul’ Pinot Noir- This starts off with a whiff of sea salt with red fruits and citrus rind aromas that all combine marvelously. The palate is plush unveiling guava, red currant jelly, red cherry and blood orange accents that are wrapped around toasty oak. Delicious now, this will cellar well for a decade. Drink 2019-2029- 91

2015 Chateau St. Jean ‘Reserve Eighty-Five Fifty-Five’ Red Wine- Named after the winery’s address, this wine is always a proprietary blend of wine from the estate vineyard based on what head winemaker Margo Van Stravenen deems is showing best from the vintage. This inky colored wine shows toasty oak that wraps around a good combustion of dark and blue fruits on the nose. The palate is silky smooth, revealing milk chocolate, anise, creme de cassis and blueberry compote. Rich and seductive, this is a beautiful Bordeaux style wine that will cellar well for a decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 92

2015 Chateau St. Jean ‘Cinq Cepages’ Red Wine- The 2015 ‘Cinq Cepages’ by superstar winemaker Margo Van Staaveren is another stunning release from this storied estate. The wine is a silky blend of Cabernet  Sauvignon  (81%),  Merlot  (9%),  Cabernet  Franc  (4%), Malbec (4%), and Petit Verdot (2%) which were all aged in 63% new French oak for 20 months prior to bottling. The nose is simply gorgeous right now with mocha, creme de cassis, blueberry pie and hints of white pepper. The texture to this wine is absolutely outstanding as black currant jelly, milk chocolate, anise and creme de cassis flavors complete this beautiful wine. Seductive and downright delicious now, with some moderate tannins, this outstanding effort will continue to evolve well over the fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2019-2035- 94

Interview with Moe Momtazi, Owner of Momtazi Estate and Maysara Winery

One of the great faces in Oregon wine, Moe Momtazi is the visionary behind the Momtazi Estate as well as Maysara Winery. Moe first purchased his esteemed property in 1997 and built an incredible vineyard that is absolutely thriving right now. Visiting last year I was absolutely enchanted by not only the vineyard but his outstanding Maysara wines that age gracefully. As we ring in the Persian New Year, I recently had the chance to sit down with Moe, who is Iranian born and escaped Iran with his wife on motorcycles. He has a wonderful story in wine. Charming and down to earth, Moe is one of the iconic figures in Oregon wine and I hope that you enjoy this exclusive interview.

WWB: How did you decide to purchase the 500 acres of land in 1997 to start the Momtazi Estate? Were you always interested in owning a winery and vineyard?

MM: I bought our property back in 1997 as an investment, knowing that land is a precious and non-renewable resource. I have also always wanted to prove to people that there are other options in farming than the conventional way. Big businesses and agro-chemical companies claim that in order to feed the world population in this day and age, you have to use synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides. However, there are unique methods of farming available under which healthy food can be produced. This food is nutritious and keeps the environment pure and clean without creating waste. The conventional method of farming has created big environmental and physical and mental health issues for mankind that, even if we had all the tools and resources to deal with it, would be extremely costly and take several generations to correct. 

Considering myself an environmentalist, I am frustrated that the majority of us do nothing but complain of how bad things are without having a solution for any of these issues. Only pointing out the problems in society does not help us move forward, instead it becomes overwhelming and depressing and when problems seem too large, people end up accepting the status quo. Studying history and seeking to understand why, in such a short time frame, our food chain has become so contaminated made me want to come up with solutions. I decided to pull up my sleeves and get to work. Grapevines and wine in Persian culture are considered a gift from the heavens. As a child, I followed my grandfather, who farmed holistically, and my father, who made wine for family and friends. This made it easy to turn our property in the beautiful Willamette Valley into a vineyard and winery. We produce great wine to be enjoyed by many generations to come.

WWB:: Visiting the Momtazi Vineyard last summer I was struck by the incredible heterogeneity in soils at the vineyard. Can you talk about how these complex soil types translate into different styles of Pinot Noir?

MM: We are so fortunate that we have so many soil types at our property. Soil is actually the foundation of agriculture. While the topsoil is important, the subsoil is even more important to me. Grapevines have the tendency to dig down very deep in search of water and minerality. Therefore, it’s imperative that your soil be a living soil with enough microorganisms to be able to bring all the earthly and cosmic forces together in a balanced way.

WWB: I had the change to review your beautiful 2015 Maysara ‘Immigrant’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 90) which showed good richness from this warm vintage in the Willamette Valley. Can you talk about this special wine that helps contribute to immigrant and refugee programs?     

MM: Years ago, when my wife, Flora, and I escaped from Iran on motorcycles, Flora eight months pregnant at the time, we promised ourselves: whenever we could, we’d help other immigrants in need. We made about 500 cases of Immigrant in 2015 and now a third of its proceeds go towards helping immigrants and refugees.

WWB: Your wines age gracefully as this fall I sampled your 2003 Maysara ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 91) as well as the absolutely scintillating 2008 Maysara ‘Asha’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 93). What is it about not only your wine production but your vineyard site that helps create such beautiful, age-worthy wines?

MM: We try to make wines that are pure, honest, and express a sense of place without manipulating them. We let the vintage and Mother Nature express themselves. As for winemaking, we don’t adjust acidity or use any enzymes, commercial yeasts, or sugars. This method of winemaking needs a little extra time for the wine to evolve and express itself in a proper way. Our farming practices are based on the idea that everything should come from within our own ecosystem without bringing in outside input (e.g. fertilizers). We raise our own animals in the farm and collect their manure for compost. We grow a variety of medicinal and dynamic herbs and flowers that we steep into teas to keep the plants healthy so that they don’t need any harsh materials. We preserve a good portion of the farm as pastures, forest, meadows, and reservoirs and encourage wild and domesticated animals. The end results of these holistic practices are healthy grapevines and great wine that ages for many years.

WWB: When you are not enjoying your Maysara wines, what are some of your favorite wines of the world?

MM: I enjoy all sorts of wines, as long as they don’t contain too much sulfite. I have actually enjoyed wines from Georgia and Middle Eastern countries that were made by amateurs that have blown me away by how good they were.

Upchurch Vineyard

As part of Washington Wine Month we bring you one of the iconic figures in Washington wine, Chris Upchurch. He and his wife, Thea, are the masterminds behind Upchurch Vineyard, one of the state’s great boutique wineries located in Red Mountain. Having visited the Upchurches last summer and toured the vineyard, there is something really special about this site. The expansive views of the Columbia Valley from their estate create an incredible panoramic effect. For those who have never visited Upchurch Vineyard, I implore you to visit if nothing else for the beauty of the site.

Chris Upchurch is one of the great pioneers in Washington wine, having crafted the finest Bordeaux style white wine for DeLille, the ‘Chaleur Estate Blanc’ in the mid-1990s. This wine has achieved incredible acclaim since that time and not only is one of the great white wines made in Washington but it rivals any Bordeaux Blanc style wines made in the new world.

Chris crafts one of the great Sauvignon Blancs in Washington, his 2016 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Southwest Facing’ Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 93) which shows marvelous texture and viscosity from this warm vintage. This wine will cellar well for a decade, picking up marvelous tertiary notes. His new release Cabernet, the 2016 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) is the best wine that I have sampled so far from this estate. The wine has a seamless quality and is obviously rich but imparts an incredible feeling of elegance. This is truly one for the cellar. Learn more about this fantastic winery at https://upchurchvineyard.com Here are the beautiful new wines by Upchurch Vineyard.

2016 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Southwest Facing’ Sauvignon Blanc- The 2016 Upchurch Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is truly one of the best of its kind in Washington. On the nose, the wine brings out an exotic edge with poached pear, apricot and lighter grassy tones. The palate has an oily texture and a wonderfully rich mouthfeel. Kumquat, cut grass, kiwi and bright Gravenstein apple flavors come to mind. Layered and downright delicious, be sure to enjoy this at a slightly warmer temperature where the wine shows its gorgeous range in its entirety. Drink 2019-2028- 93 

2016 Upchurch Vineyard ‘LTL’ Red Wine- A new wine to the Upchurch Vineyard portfolio, ‘LTL’ stands for ‘Larger Than Life.’ This forward style wine shows a beautiful nose of crushed mint, dark chocolate shavings and dark berry tones that impress. The palate shows good balance as medium bodied dark fruit flavors all come together. Up front and forward, the ‘LTL’ is drinking marvelously right now. Drink 2019-2025- 91

2016 Upchurch Vineyard ‘Counterpart’ Red Wine- A compelling blend of 65% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon, the ‘Counterpart’ opens with a bouquet of toasty oak with red bell pepper, red cherry preserves and shades of mocha aromas that fill the glass. Silky smooth on the mouth, the wine shows really good elegance. Black and red fruit flavors dance with a great sense of minerality. A long-ager, this will continue to evolve for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 93

2016 Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon by superstar winemaker Chris Upchurch is a revelation. On the nose this takes on gorgeous Cabernet character with red bell pepper, anise, brandy soaked red cherry and milk chocolate aromas that build in the glass. The texture to this wine borders ethereal. Mocha, crushed mint, blackberry cobbler and creme de cassis flavors all beautifully dance on the palate. The balance and richness is sumptuous here. Mineral-driven and rich, this gorgeous effort will cellar well for the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2019-2037- 95

Emirates First Class Food and Wine Review: Flight 186 Barcelona to Dubai

Several months in the making, I wanted to present my food and wine review of my Emirates First Class Flight which was flown from Barcelona to Dubai. I found check-in to be very fast and we were given access to fast track security which sped up the process. I imagine that fast track option saved us more than five minutes going through security. Once we were through security we had a difficult time finding our lounge, the Sala Miro lounge, shared by many other airlines.

The lounge was a bit overcrowded but had many food items and drinks. No fine wine though. We settled for a glass of the 2017 CUNE Rose (WWB, 88) as we waited for our flight. We eagerly awaited boarding our Flight 186 to Dubai. The Nespresso machine was a nice touch as you could sample different espressos while waiting.

The Barcelona airport had a separate boarding area for first class passengers upstairs as we had a double decker plane, the famed Airbus 380. First class was located in front of the plane and business class was in back with the bar being all the way in back. Boarding was delayed and began at 3:45 after our scheduled 3:30 departure. We were immediately greeted by their staff. Amazingly there was one other person seated in the first class cabin. I asked for a glass of Champagne and was served the N.V. Veuve Clicquot ‘Old’ Champagne (WWB, 93) made from three different decades of wine blended in. It was the perfect refreshment. They mentioned that they were not able to serve the first class drinks until the plane was airborne. I’ll readily admit that I was not impressed with our initial server’s attitude and they switched my server about one hour into the flight.

The coffee service was the perfect pick me up, made from both ground coffee beans and middle eastern spices. It was sensationally balanced. The flight departed around 45 minutes late at 4:15. We were very excited for our dinner service, and enjoying the roughly six hour flight to Dubai. Emirates has gained an international reputation for food and wine quality in their first class cabin. Once airborne we opted for the 2009 Dom Perignon Champagne (WWB, 95) which provided an amazing lift, albeit super young. The wine shows incredible texture and viscosity and has a considerably more fresh profile with more kumquat and citrus rind than the 2006 Dom Perignon that we enjoyed while we were in Barcelona. But don’t get me wrong — the ‘09 is a true heavyhitter. The wine list was simply dazzling and I was eager sample the finest wines that I saw in the first class cabin list. The first still wine that I sampled was the stunning 2015 Chateau D’YQuem ‘Ygret’ White Wine (WWB, 97) which is a seductive blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon from one of the most prestigious wineries in the world. I had only enjoyed this wine a few times in my life as it is not typically available in the Pacific Northwest. 2015 was a warm vintage in Sauternes and this shows the ripeness and intensity of this enticing vintage. The texture of the wine was downright ethereal.  Nearly as good was the the beautifully aged 2006 Michael Chapoutier ‘Ermitage Blanc de l’Oree’ Hermitage (WWB, 95) which comes from a warm vintage in the northern Rhône. I loved the silky texture and buttery, honeyed flavor of this wine. The mouthfeel was stunning, as was the near minute-long finish. 

We began our gradual saunter onto red wines and I chose the 2006 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre (WWB, 93) which comes from a really challenging vintage in Bordeaux but the wine showed wonderful intensity and richness. I loved the chocolate undertones with this wine. Similarly, the 2008 Vega Sicilia ‘Valbuena’ Ribera Del Duero (WWB, 94) comes from difficult vintage at best but the wine displayed remarkable richness and terroir. I am always amazed how well Vega Sicilia performs in any vintage. I thoroughly enjoyed the 2004 Torres ‘Grans Muralles Conca de Barbera’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) sourced from the Catalunya region as the wine utilizes indigenous varietals that were previously thought to be extinct. This wine was insanely rich and showed wonderful intensity on the nose with beautiful blue and dark fruits with lighter chocolate undertones. This insanely good wine continued to evolve over the course of two hours, only building in viscosity and purity of fruit. 

For dessert I sampled both the 2007 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes (WWB, 93) as well a fantastic aged port, the 1963 Graham’s Colheita Single Vintage Tawny Port (WWB, 93). The salinity in the .375 ML Sauternes bottle showed that the Suduiraut was evolving beautifully if not entirely ethereal at the moment. I have found several of these 2007 Sauternes to be slightly young even at more than a decade of age.

The food pairings on the flight were downright amazing. One of the clear dining highlights was the pairing of the beluga caviar with canapés and the 2009 Dom Perignon. With a touch of cream, combining the salinity of the beluga caviar dish as well as the richness of this dish with the Champagne really doesn’t come any better.  Another great pairing for the Dom Perignon was the roasted salmon which showed amazing texture and richness — just like the Dom Perignon. 

For main courses the salmon worked remarkably well with the 2006 Chapoutier Hermitage as both displayed a good degree of buttery richness. The paella was soft and well-cooked as it showed good balance with the D’Yquem ‘Ygret’ White Wine. Both matched with remarkable salinity and acidity. I loved the strong fish broth character of the paella as I can imagine this was downright impossible for them to prepare a dish of this high level of culinary quality on an airline. Pairing the slow roasted beef brisket (which was a bit tough) with the 2006 Leoville Poyferre worked marvelously, as the acidity of the wine beautifully cut through the richness of the dish. I tried the beef with the 2008 Vega Sicilia as well and the 2006 Leoville P worked better due to stronger richness, texture and viscosity of the Bordeaux.  On the dessert side the decadent chocolate fondant paired perfectly with the 1963 Graham’s Colheita Single Vintage Tawny Port, adding a nutty and cartelized character to the chocolate.

Finally, it is a rare sitting that I have the opportunity to take in the indulge in one of the premier Scotch whiskies available on the retail market, the stunning Royal Salute 21 Year Scotch. I fondly remember a night more than a year ago where I tried some of this seductive elixir with one of my close friends and was amazed by the incredible range of its aromatic and flavor profiles. Sampling a touch of this stunning scotch takes me back to this wonderful moment which was more than a year ago. Toffee, peat moss, cigar ash, caramelized melon were a few of the intoxicating delicious flavors that I can’t get enough of. We enjoyed this treat in the bar area as we slowly made our way to Dubai.

It was a culinary delight flying in my First Class Emirates flight from mainland Europe to Dubai. For wine lovers, it is particularly enticing being able to sample some extremely hard to find aged bottles at twenty thousand feet. The service and attention to detail on these flights is extraordinary as this is truly a one Michelin star experience high above the clouds.

DuMOL

We focus today on one of the great producers of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Cabernet in California. I am not going out on a limb by saying that this is an extraordinary new lineup by DuMOL. It is hard to find a winery that provides the depth of lineup that DuMol exudes. Strangely DuMOL was born in 1996 initially as a hobby for three friends as the project was not initially focused on producing world class wines. Since 1999 Andy Smith been at the helm as winemaker. Originally from Scotland, Andy has previously worked at Dry River, Littorai, Havens, Franus, to Matua and Mt Pleasant wineries. Andy went on to graduate in viticulture and enology from Lincoln University in Christchurch, NZ and later became assistant winemaker for Paul Hobbs. Needless to say, Andy Smith has a handle on every single varietal that he touches.

The current releases by DuMOL were every bit as good as they were last year — perhaps even better. For the second year in a row, I was blown away with the 2016 DuMOL ‘Clare Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay (WWB, 94) shows outstanding range, tension and length. This is one for the cellar. Andy Smith has crafted some stunning new Cabernets, none more so than his gorgeous 2016 DuMOL ‘Meteor Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which not only has incredible weight but shows remarkable poise from this warm vintage in the Napa Valley. massive treat that will cellar marvelously but is nearly impossible to put down right now. Learn more about this great winery at https://www.dumol.com Here are the great new releases by DuMOL. 

2016 DuMOL ‘Wild Mountainside’ Viognier- The ‘WIld Mountainside’ shows beautiful starfruit, roasted pinepple and lychee aromas that all collide in the glass. The texture here is marvelous and delightfully coats the mid-palate. Orange cream, lemon zest and bright pineapple flavors all connect in the glass. A delight to savor now, this will continue to develop for the next decade. Drink. 2019-2025- 92

2016 DuMOL ‘DuMOL Estate Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The ‘DuMol Estate Vineyard’ is a high-density vineyard located in the Sonoma Coast AVA, right near the Pacific Ocean. This wine is an exceptional bottling by the talented Andy Smith. The nose is classic Sonoma with bright pear, butterscotch and a whiff of salted praline that fills the glass. The palate is silky smooth, as the seamless texture entices. White peach, toasted brioche and vanilla creme brûlée flavors all collide on the palate. Seductive while light on its feet, this beautiful wine has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 DuMOL ‘Charles Heintz Vineyard Isobel’ Chardonany- The ‘Isobel,’ sourced from the Charles Heintz Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast AVA, is another stunning bottling by DuMol. Set at 800 feet, the maritime influence at this great vineyard is quite striking. On the nose this takes on roasted pineapple with butterscotch and orange marmalade aromatics that are simply seductive. The palate reveals a sterling minerality with lemon zest infused creme brulee, roasted pineapple cream and Challah bread flavors all taking shape. This also has some very serious aging potential but is nearly impossible to resist right now. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 DuMOL ‘Hyde Vineyard’ Chardonnay- One of the great vineyards in California owned and managed by Larry Hyde, the Hyde Vineyard is located in the Carneros AVA and has a strong maritime influence with its close proximity to the San Francisco Bay. Buttercream, brioche and lemon zest aromas all fill the glass. The palate reveals serious power with a wonderful texture and viscosity. This seamless glides through the mid-palate delivering creamy and citrus rind flavors, all leading to a minute-long finish.  A complete wine, this gorgeous effort will continue to evolve over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 95

2016 DuMOL ‘Widdoes Vineyard Ryan’ Pinot Noir- This Russian River Valley Pinot Nor shows wonderful ripeness on the nose with Bing cherry cordial, wild strawberry and cola accents that fill the glass. The palate is wonderfully rich with copious dark and red fruits with cola and orange rind tones intermingled. Downright delicious now, this beautiful wine will provide drinking enjoyment for the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 DuMOL ‘Finn’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Finn’ Pinot Noir was sourced from the DuMol Estate (60%) as well as the Occidental Road Vineyard (40%). This opens with a heady bouquet of blood orange zest, wet stone, red cherry candy and pomegranate seed with a whiff of saline infused cola. The palate shows similar brightness and salinity exposed on the nose as salted pomegranate seed and red cherry cordial flavors connect with citrus rind and wet stone character. This is highly complex and satisfying Pinot Noir that will have a long life in the cellar — but is completely irresistible right now. Drink 2019-2035- 95

2016 DuMOL ‘DuMOL Estate’ Pinot Noir- A beautiful new wine, the ‘DuMol Estate’ is one for the cellar. Lighter in color than the ‘Ryan’ bottling, this shows lighter red fruit tones with red rose water and Tangerine zest aromas that all marvelously combine once in the glass. The palate is both lithe and gratifying with good weight and balance. Red fruits dance with citrus rind tones and loads of minerals on the palate Refined and downright delicious, the ‘Finn’ will cellar well over the next ten to fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 DuMOL ‘DuMOL Estate’ Syrah- this Sonoma Coast AVA wine needs an hour in the decanter to fully unwind. Once unveiled this yields complex aromas of wild thyme, salted meats, white pepper and blackberry cobbler. Medium-bodied, with a wonderful minerality, the wine shows a great salinity with citrus rind, red and dark fruits and smoked meats all impressing on the palate. Complex and delicious now, this will continue to evolve over the next fifteen years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 DuMOL ‘Greywacke Vineyard Eddie’s Patch’ Syrah- The ‘Eddie’s Patch’ is a two-acre steep east-facing hillside parcel of vines that is set on rocky and gravel soils. rocks and gravel. A darker color than the ‘DuMol Estate’ Syrah, this shows really nice range from dark fruits to bacon fat to Umami on the nose. The palate has a good combination of weight and tension, showing downright delicious dark fruit and citrus rind flavors, with stony undertones. Lithe and delicious, this beautiful Syrah will continue to evolve well over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 94

2016 DuMOl ‘Ballard Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Located in the Spring Mountain AVA, this shows a bouquet of mocha, crushed mint and copious dark fruits that fill the nose. The palate has both great weight and balance with dark cherry cough syrup, creme de cassis, anise and red bell pepper undertones. Complex and delicious, this beautiful wine will cellar well over the next twenty years. Drink 2019-2035- 94

2016 DuMOL ‘Meteor Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Located in the Coombsville AVA, this beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 20 months in 55% new French oak prior to bottling. On the nose this takes on wonderful green bell pepper tones with creme de cassis and blackberry cordial aromas all marvelously combining. The palate is plush, layered and decadent. Turkish coffee, anise, creme de cassis and shades of dried herbs all marvelously combine in this complex Cabernet. Stunning now, this will continue to develop over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2019-2039- 95

2016 DuMOL ‘Montecillo Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Superstar winemaker, Andy Smith, has crafted another stunning new wine with this new ‘Montecillo Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon release. This starts off with anise, blueberry compote and blackberry pie on the nose with herbal undertones. The palate is lithe, showing a wonderful minerality. Dark fruits mingle with minerals and mocha flavors. Complex and utterly delicious now, this will cellar well for fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2035- 94

Alexana

One of the awesome lineups for wine in the Willamette Valley, Alexana produce a range of beautiful wines — from mineral-driven Riesling to earthy Pinot Noirs. Over the years I have found that the consistency of these wines have been remarkable. Alexana was founded many years back by Dr. Madaiah Revana, a famed cardiologist. Named after Dr. Revana’s daughter,  Alexana has a stunning setting in the Red Hills AVA. The winery utilizes both gravity flow and Gold LEED certification. Bryan Weil serves as head winemaker and has greatly impressed with his solid range of new wines. Bryan previously worked at Domaine Serene before heading back to Oregon State University, where in 2008 he graduated with a degree in Enology and Viticulture. Bryan then served as assistant winemaker at Hogue Cellars in Prosser, Washington, prior to being named Alexana winemaker in in 2012.

Bryan has crafted a killer new lineup of wines. Look to his  2017 Alexana ‘Revana Vineyard’ Riesling (WWB, 92) which shows a dazzling minerality. I absolutely loved the new 2016 Alexana ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir (WWB, 94) which is jam packed with range and has a silky mouthfeel. Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at http://www.alexanawinery.com Here are the great new release wines by Alexana. 

2017 Alexana ‘Revana Vineyard’ Riesling- The 2017 ‘Revana Vineyard’ Riesling is a stunning effort from this famed Willamette Valley estate. On the nose this takes on petrol with white flower and Gravenstein apple aromatics that impress in the glass. The palate is lithe and has the lightest kiss of sweetness with beabtuiful astringency. White flower, wet stone, green apple and kumquat flavors all impress. Bright and showing wonderful energy, this will continue to evolve over the next seven plus years. Drink 2019-2026- 92

2017 Alexana ‘Terroir Series’ Pinot Gris- The ‘Terroir Series’ Pinot Gris by Alexana is an outstanding effort. On the nose this has good range from brioche to green apple to green papaya aromas. Bright, showing a great sense of minerality, the wine shows off a wonderful ripe texture. Baked apple, green papaya and a touch of nutmeg mark the palate with lighter flinty character. Enjoy this beautiful wine with fresh Kumamoto oysters. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2016 Alexana ‘Terroir Series’ Chardonnay- The 2016 ‘Terroir Series’ Chardonnay starts off with a wonderful bouquet of honeysuckle with brioche, lemon curd and bright pear that all build in the glass. The palate has a good combination of richness and verve, showing bright pear, nectarine, wet stone and lemongrass flavors. With a rich cream and mineral-driven finish, this beautiful wine has the stuffing to cellar well over the next decade. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2016 Alexana ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Signature’ Pinot Noir by Alexana is a barrel selection wine from the Revana Vineyard in the Dundee Hills. It is a simply marvelous wine made by Bryan Weil. Showing a deep core, this begins with dark fruits with peat moss, Mandarin orange rind and black truffle crudo aromatics that show an exotic edge. The silky texture entices as the wine reveals copious dark and red fruits with black truffle undertones. Showing a good weight and minerality, this impressive bottling will cellar well for the next decade or more. Drink 2019-2035- 94

2016 Alexana ‘Pommard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from the Revana Vineyard, this single clone wine shows beautiful aromas of mulled cranberry cider, with cigar ash and blackberry cobbler aromas that build in the glass. The palate shows good freshness with red and dark fruits that connect with peat moss and earthy character. Showing a wonderfully soft texture and good weight, this excellent Pinot Noir has a long life ahead of it. Drink 2019-2035- 93

Passing Time

As part of Washington Wine Month we bring you one of the state’s outstanding wineries based in Woodinville. Passing Time, was founded by two former NFL Quarterbacks, Hall of Famer Dan Marino and Washington Husky legend, Damon Huard, with backing of Doug Donnelly, Kevin Hughes and superstar winemaker Chris Peterson. While they were in the NFL playing for the Miami Dolphins, Damon and Dan talked about someday about owning a winery together and they finally made that dream a reality. 

Through Marino and Huard would sample top wines of the world together, but they were struck with how many great wines were being made in Washington — for a highly reasonable price. They remained friends and eventually started their winery in Woodinville, with the 2012 vintage being their first wines made. Since that time they have achieved great national acclaim for their wines and I have been impressed with these wines since they were first released.

Chris Peterson is one of the great winemakers in Washington State. He was the first graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program and and spent eight years at DeLille training under eminent winemaker Chris Upchurch. Peterson has crafted some beautiful new wines, none more so than his 2016 Passing Time ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (WWB, 95) which marvelously personifies this region with its dense core and dark fruit profile. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.passingtime.com Here is my review of the new wines by Passing Time.

2015 Passing Time ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon-The 2015 'Horse Heaven Hills' Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding wine from this hot vintage in Washington. This gorgeous wine starts off with intense aromatics of red bell pepper, black currant jelly and blackberry jam. The palate is both lithe and rich, showcasing black tea, sagebrush and mocha flavors that sit alongside really good tension. Delicious and forward, this is an outstanding wine by Passing Time and superstar winemaker Chris Peterson. Drink 2019-2030- 94

2016 Passing Time 'Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2016 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new wine by the talented Chris Peterson that beautifully personifies this warm vintage and hotter site. On the nose this takes on intense black fruits with sagebrush and blueberry compote playing second fiddle. The palate is dense and decadent, currently showing some moderate tannins with creme de cassis, mocha and blackberry pie flavors. The minerality and richness here is wonderful as this is a wine that will age gracefully for the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2019-2033- 95

Andrew Will

One of the great historic Washington houses, Andrew Will was founded by Chris Carmada back in 1989. Back then their first ‘winery’ was essentially a walkway between two adjoining roofed structures as they made wine there for the first five vintages. Chris named his winery for nephew Andrew and son Will, and the family and winery subsequently moved to Vashon Island in 1994 and has been there since. Chris started his winery by sourcing from two of the most famed vineyards in Washington, the Champoux and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards. Today they source all of their grapes from their Two Blondes Vineyard as well as those two historic vineyards. 

Beautiful views from their Two Blondes Vineyard.

Winemaker Will Carmada was not originally interested in wine or winemaking. While he mentioned to me that he always was around wine, he did not develop an affinity for wines until he had completed his studies at the University of Washington. Will was only two years old when Andrew Will was started and he began working full time at Andrew Will in 2013. His progression into learning winemaking from his father and being involved in wine full-time was quite gradual but I am very glad that he has chosen this career path. Simply put, his wines are outstanding and it is clear that Will has an exceedingly bright future as Andrew Will winemaker.

The wines were seriously good across the board. Look to the great value 2017 Andrew Will ‘Cuvee Lucia’ Sauvignon Blanc (WWB, 92) which has marvelous weight and texture, with a good sense of minerality from this good vintage for Washington white wines. I was blown away with the new 2014 Andrew Will ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine (WWB, 94) with its beautiful texture and wonderful Right Bank feel. This is one for the cellar. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.andrewwill.com Here are the brilliant new releases by Andrew Will

2017 Andrew Will ‘Cuvee Lucia’ Sauvignon Blanc-  The ‘Cuvee Lucia’ has 25% Semillon blended in. This takes on a beautiful mouthfeel with bright kiwi, cantaloupe and bright pear flavors. This seriously good Sauvignon Blanc best served slightly warmer. Drink 2019-2025- 92

2017 Involuntary Commitment ‘Columbia Valley’ Red Wine- This great wine is sourced from declassified Andrew Will sourced fruit. The wine is a Cabnernet dominant blend with Cabernet Franc and Merlot blended in. The wine starts off with aromas of black tea, dried herbs, blackberry cobbler and mocha. The wine shows dark fruit flavors with lighter coffee ground and sage flavors. Drink 2019-2025- 90

2016 Andrew Will ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from Two Blondes Vineyard and Champoux Vineyard, this great wine shows good range on the nose from black tea to milk chocolate to creme de cassis. The wine has a silky mouthfeel with mocha, anise, creme de cassis and black olive tapenade flavors. Decadent and elegant, this is a beautiful wine made by Will Carmada. Drink 2019-2029- 92

2013 Andrew Will ‘Ciel du Cheval’ Red Wine- This outstanding wine is a blend of 56% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc. The nose is highly seductive with blackberry cobbler, blueberry compote, lavender and violets. The palate is elegant and rich, showing a gorgeous mouthfeel. Blackberry cobbler, creme de cassis, raspberry cordial and rose water with coffee ground flavors all marvelously combine on the palate. A long-ager, this brilliant wine will cellar well for the next two decades. Drink 2019-2039- 94

2013 Andrew Will ‘Sorella’ Red Wine- The ‘Sorella’ is a compelling blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 6% Cabenet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. The nose is seriously good with mocha, creme de cassis, blueberry and black tea that all impress and build in the glass. The palate is seductive and ripe, unveiling a wonderfully rich mouthfeel.  There is a seamless quality to this wine that really shines through. This gorgeous wine will continue to develop over the next two plus decades. Drink 2020-2040- 94