Nine Hats

Today we share one of the outstanding value producers in the Pacific Northwest. Nine Hats is the brainchild of the Long Shadows project, as all Nine Hats wines are crafted in Walla Walla by famed winemaker Gilles Nicault. The idea was to craft delicious and highly approachable wines that are value everyday wines. These wines come from some of the same acclaimed vineyards as the Long Shadows wines, but they are made to be easier to drink and more geared towards everyday consumption. They have been on innumerable restaurant lists as glass pours because they are wines that consistently offer fantastic QPR.

The new set of releases are the finest overall that I have tasted. I adored the new 2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Pinot Gris (OB, 91) which is ripe and shows beautiful texture at a mere 15 dollars retail. The best wine I tasted (and the best Nine Hats wine I have ever tasted) was the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah (OB, 93) which is really like a baby Sequel. The flavor range and viscosity here is truly outstanding. Learn more about these outstanding wines at ninehatswines.com and here are my reviews of the new Nine Hats wines.

2020 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Chardonnay- Very crisp and smooth, the 2020 Nine Hats Chardonnay offers buttered French bread and ripe pear notes on the nose with suggestions of green papaya on the nose. The palate is soft and enticing with a silky mouthfeel and good length. Enjoy this 100% varietal bottling now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Pinot Gris- A downright killer value coming from this warm vintage in the Columbia Valley, the 2021 Nine Hats Pinot Gris offers straightforward Japanese pear, white peach and juicy starfruit flavors that combine with a smooth texture once on the mouth. Finishing clean with minerals and ripe orchard fruits, this is a clear winner. Only 15 dollars retail. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2021 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Riesling- Another awesome wine in this new Nine Hats lineup, the 2021 Riesling shows wet stone and light petrol notes on the palate, with sweetened gooseberry tones. Medium-bodied and showing a fantastic sense of texture, this is really outstanding stuff for the price. The combination of mouthfeel and lip-smacking acidity really makes this tick. Drink 2023-2027- 91

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Sangiovese- Very soft and polished, the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Sangiovese offers ripe red fruit flavors with tobacco leaf, leather and milk chocolate undercurrents. Medium to full-bodied, and exceedingly well-balanced, this is an outstanding value that would pair magically with a range of roasted meats. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot- Also very soft and refined, the 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Merlot was mostly stored from the Benches Vineyard, Aged 18 months in 70% neutral new oak barrels this revels in its silky texture once on the mouth. Mocha, black currants and cedar notes combine on the palate with a bright mineral backbone. This is seriously good for the price. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Malbec- The 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Malbec comes from the Wahluke Slope AVA, as this was stored for 18 months in 70% neutral oak barrels before bottling. It is very inky in the glass, displaying mocha, tar, dark currants and sweet pipe tobacco notes alongside a bright sense of tension. You will love this wine that exudes both class and value. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah- The outstanding 2019 Nine Hats ‘Columbia Valley’ Syrah comes off as a ‘Baby Sequel’ with its outstanding range of aromas and flavors. Bacon fat and garrigue notes combine with tilled soils and copious dark fruits on the nose. The palate is rich and dense with plenty of underlying finesse. As is, the wine is exceedingly difficult to put down once opened with its dense figs, boysenberry and dark cherry notes alongside hints of dark chocolate. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 93

Veuve Clicquot 'La Grand Dame' Champagne

One of the oldest houses in Champagne, Veuve Clicquot dates all the way back to 1772. Located in Reims, the house matriarch, Madame Clicquot, is known for crafting the first vintage champagne in 1810 as well as creating the riddling process to clarify champagne years later. She also created the first Rose champagne — and we are all so glad that she did.

Veuve Cliquot created their top wine, the ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne in Madame Cliquot’s honor. Today, ‘La Grand Dame’ is one of the most famous of the tete de cuvees. I fondly recall epic vintages of this wine dating back to the 1990 which lives long in my memory. Only made in great vintages, the ‘La Grand Dame’ was last made in 2006 and in 2008. The new edition from 2012 might be better than those editions. It is a masterclass that really needs a bit of time in the decanter to fully be aroused, but you will see that its complexity, density and underlying verve make this a highly age-worthy effort that will live on for at least another fifteen years to come. Learn more at https://www.veuveclicquot.com/en-au/our-champagne/la-grande-dame-2012 and here is my review of the fabulous 2012 ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne.

2012 Veuve Clicquot ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne- Given 6G/L dosage, the sensational 2012 Veuve Clicquot ‘La Grand Dame’ Champagne is nearly all Pinot Noir (90%) with the remainder Chardonnay. This iconic wine is showing a bit better than the last edition of this wine (2008). Benefiting from a 20 minute decant, the 2012 ‘La Grand Dame’ displays a dizzying array of ripe orchard fruits, lemon oil, cardamom dusted brioche and shades of fresh ginger on the palate. A stunning wine now, brimming with serious poise and weight, this should live on for at least another fifteen years. Drink 2023-2038- 96

Kevin White

It was a bustling winter afternoon in Woodinville. I opened the door to Kevin White Winery and a lively holiday crowd had gathered for their winter wine club party. My friend, Tan Vinh, and I thoroughly enjoyed tasting through the new releases — and savored some of their really good library wines from the 2015 vintage. Kevin White Winery was founded twelve years ago back in 2010. Inspired by the wines of the Rhone Valley, Kevin sought to learn more and more about wine, taking classes in chemistry, microbiology and enology. Kevin started making his wines at nearby Baer before opening his tasting room in the warehouse district of Woodinville.

Taking with Kevin, he was very bullish on his wines from the 2019 and 2020 vintages — years that were relatively hard for winemakers to navigate due to the freeze of 2019 and smoke conditions of 2020. I have little doubt that Kevin has commanded these conditions really well. His wines show good finesse and a seamless quality from beginning to end. I love the new 2021 Kevin White ‘Memoire’ White Wine (OB, 92) which shows great underlying finesse with plenty of richness. Even better is the sensational 2020 Kevin White ‘Pionnier’ Grenache (OB, 94) which has outstanding range and deftly depicts the sheer beauty of Boushey Vineyard Grenache. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://www.kevinwhitewinery.com Here are the great new wines by Kevin White.

2021 Kevin White ‘Memoire’ White Wine- A southern Rhone-inspired blend of Roussanne (85%) and Grenache Blanc (15%) from the Boushey and Olsen Vineyards, this is fresh and marvelously textured, with a serious underlying stony minerality. Ripe cantaloupe and Japanese pear flavors collide with lighter flinty and citrus rind undertones. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2020 Kevin White ‘Pionnier Boushey Vineyard’ Red Wine- The 2020 ‘Pioneer’ blends 85% Grenache with 15% Mourvedre which was all sourced from the Boushey Vineyard. Translucent in the glass, this offers really good range on the nose. Smoked meats collide with white pepper dusted red fruits, kumquat zest and suggestions of Earl Grey tea. The palate is rich and concentrated, drinking very seamless and plump on the mouth. Very pure in its red fruit character, this is absolutely delicious wine to consume now and over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 94

2019 Kevin White ‘Les Terrasses Weathereye Vineyard’ Grenache- Extremely translucent and very Pinotesque once in the glass, the 2019 ‘Les Terrasses’ Grenche comes from the high elevation northern slopes on Red Mountain which is managed by Ryan Johnson. Flinty and fresh once on the mouth, this delivers a gorgeous range of red fruit flavors, with yarrow, sagebrush and white pepper dusted bacon flavors on the palate. Generous and showing good verve, enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2020 Kevin White ‘La Fraternite’ Red Wine- Entirely coming from the Yakima Valley, the 2020 ‘La Fraternite’ blends mostly Grenache (62%) with smaller parts Mourvèdre and Syrah. Garrigue notes collide with red raspberry coulis, black peppercorns and suggestions of roasted lamb. The palate is soft and very plush, showing no rough edges. Forward and juicy in its red fruit profile, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Kevin White ‘La Paysanne’ Mourvedre- The 2020 ‘La Paysanne’ is a 100% Mourvèdre bottling from the Boushey, Olsen, and Sugarloaf Vineyards. Smoked brisket and green peppercorns mingle well with Moroccan spices and suggestions of black tea on the nose. The palate is ripe and juicy with a wonderful purity of red and dark fruits. Very seamless and elegant, enjoy this very Washington vs. Beaucastel wine now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2019 Kevin White ‘L’Odyssee’ Red WIne- The 2019 ‘L’Odyssee’ Red Wine is a Right Bank-inspired wine that combines Red Willow and Boushey Vineyard Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Very linear and balanced on the palate, this displays baking spice dusted red fruits with tobacco leaf, blackberry cobbler and coffee ground accents. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Kevin White ‘Heritage DuBrul Vineyard’ Red Wine- Roughly 57% Merlot with the reminder Cabernet Sauvignon from the famed DuBrul Vineyard, the 2019 ‘Heritage’ offers beautiful aromatic range once in the glass. Red raspberry and freshly tilled soils combine with dried herbs, and stony undertones on the nose. The palate is plush and nicely concentrated with good underlying verve. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this is seriously good stuff to consume now and over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Long Shadows 'Julia's Dazzle' Rose

It might only be February but Rose season lies right in front of us. One of the most consistently great Rose wines out of Washington, ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ is made by Long Shadows. Year after year this wine has impressed since its inception and it is my pleasure to be the first wine critic to review this beautiful wine sourced from the Columbia Valley. This fall during harvest I had a chance to visit famed Long Shadows winemaker Gilles Nicault and taste with him at his Walla Walla winery. As we tasted through the new release, he mentioned how he felt that 2022 would bring a great Rose.

The 2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose (OB, 93) is a wine that is already singing but will become more and more complex as it ages. It seriously polished effort that is best consumed at a slightly warmer temperature. At around twenty dollars, the 2022 ‘Dazzle' is a steal in the Pacific Northwest Rose market. Learn more about these incredible wines at longshadows.com and here is my review of the 2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose.

2022 Long Shadows ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ Rose-  This is a downright stunning wine which was created entirely from Pinot Gris gapes, the 2022 ‘Julia’s Dazzle’ is a gorgeous Rose bottling that is already singing in February 2023 and checks in with just a dash of .3G/L residual sugar. While outstanding in 2021, the 2022 ‘Dazzle’ is a notch better in terms of mouthfeel, bright acidity and sinfully good flavor range. Don’t serve too cold to endure the complete range of flavors, combining Satsuma orange zest, guava puree, red rose water, juicy strawberry and shades of baking spice dusted French bread. This is impeccably balanced in terms of weight and bright minerality. Highly nuanced, enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2029- 93

2020 Bordeaux Report

As we all gathered outside the door we eagerly awaited our entrance into what would be one of the great tastings of the year for Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux. I was very excited to taste some of the greats from the 2020 vintage in Bordeaux — a year that has been already hailed by many critics as being consistent and concentrated. 2020 was a warm year that had early flowering and very warm conditions from mid-June to mid-August. Heavy thunderstorms then hit the left bank, with the right bank less affected. 2020 is warm like 2018 but had more moderate conditions overall. Due to the heat, harvest was early, producing generally low yields.

Tasting the wines you can really feel the power on the Right Bank. These are deep, concentrated wines that will age gloriously. I loved the 2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur (OB, 95) which quite literally screams terroir and the broad-shouldered 2020 Chateau La Cabanne (OB, 95) which will cellar beautifully for decades. Overall quality on the Right Bank is clearly very high.

But there were also clearly world-class wines made on the Left Bank. The finest wine I tasted was the 2020 Chateau Pichon-Lalande (OB, 99) which flirts with perfection and is silky and generous with no rough edges. This beauty will cellar for many decades to come. Nearly as good was the scintillating 2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre (OB, 96) which has gobs of stuffing and the very elegant 2020 Chateau Lynch-Bages (OB, 96) which shows lovely terroir and earthy tones. Don’t sleep on the incredible value 2020 Chateau Gisgours (OB, 95) which is also quite powerful and shows velvety tannins right now. Both rouge and blanc wines by Chateau Pape Clement (OB, 96, OB, 96) offer outstanding value and aging potential. After this landmark tasting it is quite clear that buyers of the 2020 Bordeau vintage have a lot to look forward to.

2020 Chateau La Counsapaude- The outstanding 2020 Chateau La Counsapaude offers rich anise and black currant flavors alongside silky tannins and a smooth mouthfeel. Finishing long with copious meirnals, enjoy this beauty over the next fifteen plus years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2020 Chateau La Gaffeliere A really great wine for 2020, the Chateau La Gaffeliere is a smooth blend of 60% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Sauvignon. The house has been owned by the Malet Roquefort family for over three centuries and located in the "golden triangle," between the hills of Chateaux Pavie and Ausone. Right away on the palate you taste the dense dark currant tones alongside dried herbs and coffee grounds. Medium to full-bodied, savor this now and ver the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2044- 94

2020 Chateau Villamaurine- A gorgeous blend of 80% Merlot with the remainder Cabernet Franc, this spent roughly16 months in French oak before bottling. On the nose this takes on smoky aromas alongside graphite and dense dark fruits with hints of dark hocolate. This shows some really nice aging potential. Drink 2024-2042- 94

2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur- The gorgeous 2020 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur comes from the home of famed enologist Michel Rolland. Showing off its deep color in the glass, this evolves with heady dark currants, Black Forest cake and mocha with wet gravel notes on the nose. The palate is rich and layered with suggestions of creme de violette and stony accents. The viscosity here is sinfully good, as this beauty will evolve for decades to come Drink 2024-2045- 95

2020 Chateau La Cabanne- Comprised of (96%) and Cabernet Franc (4%), this shows a silky texture with good richness and fantastic underlying finesse. Pencil lead, anise and among undertones along side rich dark and blue fruits. A complete wine, this will be best consumed in several years. Drink 2024-2043- 95

2020 Chateau Gazin- The 2020 Chateau Gazin shows loads of potential and is coming off a bit backwards now. Medium to full bodied dark fruits combine with espresso grounds and wet gravel notes on the palate. Finishing long with great finesse, enjoy in several years. Drink 2025-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Clarke- The 2020 Chateau Clarke comes from the Listrac-Médoc, in the Northern Médoc region. This performs well with good freshness and displays medium bodied dark cherry, and date fruit flavors alongside coffee grounds and cloves. Give this another year in the bottle. Drink 2024-2040-92

2020 Chateau Coufran- Really good in 2020, Chateau Coufran combines Merlot (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). Right away very appealing this offers medium to full-bodied tar, tobacco leaf, anise and fresh blackberries on the palate. Already nicely evolved, try to hold on this beauty for at least another year Drink 2024-2038- 93

2020 Chateau Augludet- In this 2020 vintage they have chosen to add more Petite Verdot. It comes off very fresh and somewhat angular with lighter to medium bodied dark fruits w tobacco leaf alongside gritty tannins. Drink 2023-2033- 91

2020 Chateau La Tour Carnet- The 2020 La Tour Carnet combines Merlot (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%). Right away this shows a deep hue with mocha and allspice tones alongside shades of pencil lead and damp earth. Medium bodied and well balanced, enjoy now and over the next twenty years. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Gisgours- A sensational effort in 2020, the Chateau Gisgours combines Cabernet Sauvignon (56%) and Merlot (44%). This comes off ultra velvety with refined tannins. Very pure dark fruits march on with espresso grounds and shades of damp earth. This is silky, elegant and highly-concentrated wine that has a long way to go in the cellar. Give this several years before consuming. Drink 2025-2045- 95

2020 Chateau Lascombes- I had a marvelous visit to this house back in 2019. The 2020 Lascombes combines Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (40%) and a touch of Petit Verdot (5%).  Right away this comes off very refined on the palate, displaying copious minerals with deep black fruits, dark chocolate and pipe tobacco flavors. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy over the next two decades. Try to resist for another couple of years. Drink 2025-2043- 94

2020 Chateau Beaumont- Outstanding and very savory the great value 2020 Chateau Beaumont shows garrigue notes alongside velvety tannins with rich figs and anise tones on the palate. Finishing long with black fruits and copious minerals, this is best consumed in a year or so — and will bring pleasure for another fifteen years. Drink 2024-2040- 92

2020 Chateau Beychevelle- There is a lot to love with the new 2020 Beychevelle which is a marvelous blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the remainder Petit Verdot. On the palate medium to full-bodied flavors of mocha, tar, anise and creme de violette all enter the fray. Very concentrated and refined, enjoy over the next twenty five years to come. Just try to resist this beauty for a few more years. Drink 2025-2050- 95

2020 Chateau Gruaud Larose- The 2020 Chateau Gruaud Larose is an outstanding wine that is showing serious aging potential. The blend combines Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), smaller portions Cabernet Franc (4%), and Merlot (17%). Right away the heady aromas of mocha and tar notes combine with suggestions of leather and Turkish coffee all meld on the nose. The palate is rich and viscous with refined tannins and a great feeling of verve. Enjoy in several years. Drink 2025-2045- 94

2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre- Really good even in its youth, the hedonistic 2020 Chateau Leoville-Poyferre is a stunning wine from this vintage.Coming from this 60 hectare site set on Mindel gravel upon clayey-sandy subsoils, this comes off super refined with its tannic structure. Full-bodied coffee grounds, dark chocolate fudge and roasted date flavors meld with formidable viscosity and finesse. Try to resist this stunning wine for at least another three years. Drink 2026-2055- 96

2020 Chateau Talbot- The most Cabernet Sauvignon ever blended, this combines Cabernet Sauvignon (76%), Merlot (21%) and Petit Verdot (3%). Medium to full bodied mocha, anise and espresso grounds combine with soft tannins on the palate. Showing great length and persistence, hold off on this beauty for a few more years. Drink 2025-2045- 94

2020 Chateau Lynch Bages- A stunner from 2020, the Chateau Lynch Bages reminds me of the scintillating 2016 bottling. Showing off a very deep core in the glass, this combines with black currant cordial flavors with Arabica bean and creme de violette tones on the palate. This shows so much potential and ultra-refined tannins that make this quite literally a joy to drink even at this stage. Just try to resist this beauty for a few more years if you can. Drink 2025-3055- 96

2020 Chateau Phelan Segur- The 2020 Chateau Phelan Segur is one of the great wines of this house that I have tasted, up there with the outstanding 2005 and 2010 bottlings. This comes off very powerful and silky with refined tannins, with glorious length. A dense core of dark fruits greet you on the palate, with shades of dark licorice and coffee grounds. This will have the stuffing and finesse to cellar well for another two decades. Just hold off for a few more years. Drink 2025-2044- 94

2020 Chateau de Pez- The 2020 Chateau de Pez exudes class with its deep core in the glass. Ripe dark currants melange with dark chocolate and mocha tones with kirsch cordial on the palate. This is rich and layered stuff that will drink well for decades to come. Drink 2024-2040- 93

2020 Chateau Pichon Lalande- The finest wine of the tasting, the 2020 Chateau Pichon Lalande is a landmark wine from this vintage. A world-class blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot with the remainder  6% Cabernet Franc, this is ultra-rich and polished once on the mouth with a seamless texture. The Bordeaux effortlessly glides throughout the drinking experience, finishing very long with its polished tannins, black fruits and gorgeous finesse. Enjoy this dense, heady and wine that flirts with perfection over the next thirty years. Drink 2025-2055- 99

2020 Chateau Pape Clement Blanc- The 2020 Pape Clement Blanc is another stunning wine from this famed house for Bordeux Blanc. Complex and deep, with serious viscosity, this displays cardamom dusted melon, clementine white peach. This is power with gobs of finesse, as this dense beauty will go for decades to come Drink 2023-2043- 96

2020 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge- I adore the 2020 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge which is extremely powerful yet dazzles with its underlying tension. A blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, on the palate this classy wine reveals heady pencil lead ,kirsch cordial and espresso grounds that combine with the seamless texture. Very deep and concentrated, enjoys this beauty in a year or so. Drink 2024-2050- 96

2020 Chateau De Chevalier Blanc- This comes off refined and elegant with good concentration on the palate, showing bergamot, white peach, juicy gooseberry and suggestions of baking spice dusted brioche flavors. Rich and viscous, with fantastic verve, this is already nicely evolved and will cellar well for another two decades. Drink 2023-2042-95

2020 Chateau De Chevalier Rouge- Just as good as the 2020 ‘Blanc’ the 2020 Chateau Chevalier Rouge is very concentrated and heady wine that is drinking marvelously even now at the three year mark. A gorgeous blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc, this offers wonderful underlying tension alongside medium to full-bodied dark currant, tobacco leaf, freshly tilled soil and stony accents on the palate. Delightful even now, enjoy over the next twenty years to come. Drink 2023-2043- 95

Eternal Wines

Sitting across from winemaker Brad Binko last summer, we talked about everything from music to vintage port. A graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s enology and viticulture program,  Binko formerly ran restaurant wine programs in Charleston before making the move to Walla Walla. The wines that he makes get better and better.

In the past he has produced a very wide range of wines, including a top notch Port-style wine and a great range of whites, including a very fresh and fragrant Rose. He is located in the Walla Walla Airport district and is known for putting on killer wine parties and concerts, especially in the summer.

I really enjoyed his new wines. Don’t miss out on the 2021 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Perspective’ Grenache Blanc (OB, 91) which is very fresh and nicely textured, with good flavor range. The best wine I tasted was the 2019 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Bliss’ Fortified Syrah (OB, 93) which is amongst the finest wines of its kind that you will taste in the state. As I am typing this I quite literally can’t wait to go back to this wine tonight with a chocolate dessert. The wine shows insanely good flavor range that you will need to taste for yourself. Learn more about these wines at https://eternalwine.com Here are the great new releases by Eternal Wine and Drink Washington State.

2016 Drink Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon- The excellent 2016 Drink Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon is very soft and approachable Cabernet Sauvignon now with layers of black tea, blackberry compote, coffee grounds and good structure. Enjoy now and over the next several years to come. Drink 2023-20228- 91

2021 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Perspective’ Grenache Blanc- The 2021 ‘Eternal Perspective’ comes from the Painted Hills Vineyard in the Yakima Valley AVA. This is ripe and beautifully textured Grenache Blanc with sweetened gooseberry, cantaloupe, wet stone and citrus blossom water notes on the palate. Texturally gratifying, with good acidity, this really needs a warm summer day. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Insight’ Marsanne- Coming from the famed Boushey Vineyard, this Eternal Wines offering by Brad Binko offers a fresher take on the varietal. Copious minerals greet you with green papaya, unripe mango, green apple and suggestions of blue slate. Enjoy in its vibrant youth while this great sense of tension remains intact. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2017 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Discovery’ Cabernet Sauvignon- As the name might suggest, this is sourced from the Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. Light garrigue notes combine with fresh black raspberry, black cherry pie and suggestions of dark chocolate shavings on the palate. Already nicely evolved, savor this now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2019 Eternal Wines ‘Eternal Bliss’ Fortified Syrah- Sitting with winemaker Brad Binko last summer we both talked about our love for Port wines. This is a Port-inspired bottling that is Syrah-based and had an added neutral spirit. Everything is in balance here, with bright acidity, alcohol and flat out delicious fruit and non-fruit flavors. Without a doubt the best wine in the Eternal Wines new lineup, this is a downright killer new bottling with insane flavor range — espresso grounds, mocha, tar, worn leather, sweetened menthol — that all marvelously combine together in the glass. Don’t take my word for it, you have to try this beauty for yourself! Drink 2023-2033- 93

Structure Cellars

Today we introduce some of the finest people you will find in the Washington Wine Industry. For years I have enjoyed tasting at their SoDo location as  Structure Cellars focuses their program on high quality red wine that exudes value. Head winemaker and co-owner Brian Grasso is a former sommelier that trained under Washington wine legend Chris Sparkman of Sparkman Cellars before starting his own winery. Brian is a really easy-going, down to earth guy. He’s passionate and dedicated to making high quality, good value wines. He and his wife Brandee also own an adjacent, very cool sparkling wine bar called Love Beats Pagne (https://www.lovebeatspagne.com) that my wife is particularly fond of.

When you enter Structure Cellars you will no doubt see Brian’s head beating back and forth as he personally tastes people on his lineup.  2020 was not an easy vintage to navigate but he did a really good job with the wines, despite the conditions late in the year. I adored his 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) which has gorgeous underlying tension and a salty presence. This is a really cool wine that should be enjoyed now and over the next eight or so years. Learn more about these excellent wines at structurewines.com and here are the great new wines by Structure Cellars.

2021 Structure Cellars ‘Frenchman Hills Vineyard’ Chardonnay- This outstanding Chardonnay displays a ripe texture with beautiful and opulent Japanese pear, ripe peach and pineapple flavors that combine with silty soils on the palate. Medium to full-bodied, enjoy this delicious bottling now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 92

2021 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Roussanne- The 2021 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Roussanne comes from this outstanding site in the Yakima Valley. Very fresh and soft on the mouth, this delivers Macadamia nut tones on the palate, with wild mushroom, cantaloupe and shades of cardamom, with considerable underlying tension. Enjoy now and over the next five plus years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc- The beautiful 2020 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc is a great showing from this challenging vintage. Fragrant on the nose with potpourri, this displays ripe red fruit flavors that combine with cigar ash and shades of black licorice. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Franc- Very herbal and bright, with gobs of mouth-watering acidity, the very linear 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Franc offers tar and red currant flavors alongside red floral water on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Brothers’ Merlot- Soft and approachable now, the 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Olsen Brothers’ Merlot displays ripe red cherry flavors with tobacco leaf, white pepper and shades of milk chocolate. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah- Savory and tasty right now, the 2020 ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Syrah shows bacon fat, tar and anise tones with lighter dark currant notes on the palate. Medium-bodied with good finesse, enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 91

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Coming from this scenic site set on the Columbia River, the 2020 Structure Cellars ‘Wallula Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon offers ripe red currants, rose water and tobacco flavors on the palate with plenty of finesse and dark chocolate shaving and salty undertones. Showing some bright acidity, this nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Stillwater Creek Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Sourced from this cooler site in the Royal Slope AVA, the Cabernet Sauvignon shows off wild blackberry, black currant jelly and shades of asphalt on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a smooth texture and light texture. Drink 2023-2027- 90

2020 Structure Cellars ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2020 ‘Foundation’ Cabernet Sauvignon shows tar, method and tobacco leaf on the palate with copious minerals. Medium-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 90

Sequitur

One of the world-class producers out of Oregon, Sequitur was founded by Mike Etzel and Carey Critchlow. For years Mike Etzel had sights on developing a property which is adjacent to his famed ‘Upper Terrace Vineyard’ and between 2012 and 2014 Mike and Carey planted the 12-acre Sequitur vineyard . Various clonal selections (Wädenswil, Coury, Swan, Calera, Eyrie, Mt. Eden, Rochioli, and Martin Ray) here are tightly spaced, as this biodynamically farmed vineyard is a truly unique site with large Fir trees that line the property. 

The current production is 700 cases of Pinot Noir and 75 cases of Chardonnay, plus or minus a few depending on the vintage. They produce a small amount of “Amphora” Pinot Noir which is fermented and aged in an Italian clay amphora. They’ve made White Pinot Noir in 2020 and also now in 2022.

The new wines by them were extraordinarily good. I was blown away with what they accomplished in 2020 as the 2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir (OB, 94) is one of the finest wines I have tasted from this challenging vintage. With serious range and texture, this beauty is absolutely singing now. Even better is the 2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge Woodstock’ Pinot Noir (OB, 95) which is a fitting tribute to the 50th anniversary of this famed festival. Dense and showing incredible verve and mouthfeel, this very pretty wine will live on for decades.

Learn more about these special, limited production wines at https://www.sequiturwine.com Here is the glorious new release wines by Sequitur. 

2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir- Coming from this highly challenging vintage in the Willamette Valley, the absolutely gorgeous 2020 Sequitur White Pinot Noir offers a very rich nose with salted Macadamia nut, nectarine, gooseberry and cantaloupe notes. The palate is very seamless and downright ethereal with really nice weight. Kiwi, Yakima cherry and honeydew melon flavors mingle well with copious minerals on the palate. This is super-refined, weightless stuff that is up there with the finest White Pinot Noirs that are made in North America. No reason to cellar this beauty! Drink 2023-2029- 94

2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge Woodstock’ Pinot Noir- The downright stunning 2019 Sequitur ‘Ribbon Ridge’ Pinot Noir is a tribute wine to the 50th anniversary of the iconic music festival. This is a nod to the rains during the festival and also at harvest (albeit considerably cooler during the Oregon harvest!). Considering the rains at harvest, this is rich and concentrated, with a deep core. Very rich and concentrated, showing linzer torte, cran-pomegranate, wild blackberries and copious minerals, this is a stunning, very pure Pinot Noir from this slightly cooler vintage. Showing great length and loads of mouth-watering acidity, I can see this cellaring well for another fifteen plus years. Drink 2023-2038- 95

Canvasback

For years I have loved the Canvasback wines by winemaker Brian Rudin. Founded back in 2011, Duckhorn pioneers Dan and Margaret Duckhorn saw the great potential for adding Washington Cabernet Sauvignon from Red Mountain to their portfolio of wines. Today Canvasback makes a range of wines and utilizes the vineyard management talents of Dick Boushey to source from some of the state’s great sites including Klipsun, The Funk Estate, La Coye, Shaw and Quintessence Vineyards. Canvasback crafts their ‘Grand Passage’ Cabernet Sauvignon, entirely sourced from Red Mountain and also has a relatively new estate vineyard, the Longwinds Vineyard, on Red Mountain right above Col Solare. The Longwinds Vineyard was planted in 2013 and has 13.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and 4.5 acres of Merlot, with the Cabernet grown in the rockier, exposed soils at the top of the vineyard, and the Merlot grown near the bottom, where the soils have higher water-holding capacity. 

Winemaker Brian Rudin is originally from Eastern Washington and worked at L’Ecole No. 41 before serving as head winemaker for four years at Cadaretta and Buried Cane.  I really enjoyed the new wines that he has made. Coming from this somewhat challenging vintage, the 2019 Canvasback ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 92) is very concentrated and dense, showing the wonderful deep earthy tones that you expect from Red Mountain. Learn more about these great new wines at https://www.canvasbackwine.com Here are the beautiful new Cabernet Sauvignon releases by Canvasback. 

2020 Greenwing ‘Columbia Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The Greenwing bottling is their entry level wine that comes from a range of appellations including Red Mountain and the Walla Walla Valley. Right away this delivers ripe figs with sweetened blackberry and black currant flavors, with dusty earth. Enjoy now and over the next several years. Drink 2022-2028- 90

2019 Canvasback ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The 2019 ‘Red Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding value by winemaker Brian Rudin. Sourced from great sites including Klipsun and Quintessence Vineyards, this offers tar and tobacco leaf flavors alongside intense boysenberry cordial and mocha tones. This is truly delicious and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon that offers some really great value. Enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

Betz 'Clos de Betz' Vertical Tasting

One of the famed wines of Washington State, the ‘Clos de Betz’ honors Bob and Cathy Betz’s winery origins, dating back to 1973. It was in that year that Bob and Cathy visited one of the famed vineyards of Burgundy, the Clos de Beze and they vowed to one day produce a wine that pays homage to this famed location, creating a wine with great terroir and expression.

Bob Betz created the Clos de Betz back with the 1997 vintage and the rest has been history as this has been one of the most well-known expressions of Washington Merlot since its inception. It was an honor last Friday to taste every vintage (other than 1998) of the Clos de Betz red wine with Betz head winemaker Louis Skinner. Over several hours we moved through more than 20 wines as we shared our thoughts on each vintage.

One thing that stuck me, and did not surprise me, was the overall quality in the wines. There were no duds in this tasting, as all wines showed marvelously even at more than twenty years of age. Sure, a few might have shined brighter than others, but even the wines made in challenging vintages were beautiful. For my palate the two vintages that did not show quite as well were the cooler years, 2010 and 2011. I would not sit on those wines any longer.

We were all floored how the older wines showed and I was mesmerized by the 1997 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 91) which is still alive and kicking. The mid-palate depth began to slowly dissipate after an hour but my initial approach to this wine was just incredible. This wine is proof that Washington Merlot can age gracefully. Even better was the 1999 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 94) which is loaded with finesse from this cooler vintage. I love where this wine is at right now, just pillowy soft and inviting. Just as good was the 2018 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 94) which is no doubt the most powerful of the lineup and shows some very serious cellaring potential. I adored the 2014 ‘Clos de Betz’ (OB, 94) which is still quite primary but is very slowly making its move into secondary notes. What a beauty! Essentially all of the wines from 2000-2009 were outstanding and remarkably consistent. These were a run of downright great vintages and the wines also appeared as very true to the vintages. In short, this was an extraordinary tasting that proves that great Washington Merlot can age. Here are my tasting notes from this glorious ‘Clos de Betz’ vertical tasting with Betz Family Winery.

2019 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Very dark in the glass, the 2019 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a silky blend of 51% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 28% Petit Verdot that is already nicely evolved. Once on the nose this takes on tar, dried herbs and coffee ground notes with copious dark fruits. The palate shows good richness considering the coolness of the vintage. Dense dark fruits combine with good structure on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2018 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2018 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a really outstanding bottling that is one of the greats of this tasting. Rich and voluptuous on the mouth, this shows a seamless texture that produces a weightless effect. Layers of roasted figs, mocha, scorched earth and heady blackberry notes all combine on the palate. Refined tannins and bright acidity frame this beautiful wine that is drinking beautifully now at the five year mark. Drink 2023-2038- 94

2017 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2017 ‘Clos de Betz’ is a fantastic showing from this slightly cooler vintage. This is an ultra-fresh wine, showing fragrant black rose tones on the nose with boysenberry and Arabica mean notes. The palate is deep and concentrated, loaded with ripe dark fruit flavors. This is a treat to enjoy now, as it will easily go for another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2016 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- A dense and layered Merlot red wine to enjoy now, the 2016 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is drinking marvelously already at the seven year mark. Loaded with roasted figs, black currants, tar and Turkish coffee flavors, this is a dense and chewy effort that is highly enjoyable to taste — and will cellar for at least another decade to come. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2015 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2015 ‘Clos de Betz’ is a delightful wine from this warm vintage that saw Merlot harvested in August. This has really come around on the mid-palate since last tasted. Layers of milk chocolate combine with black currants, espresso grounds and shades of black licorice. This is really good wine considering the heat of the vintage. No reason to cellar so enjoy now! Drink 2023-2029- 92

2014 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2014 ‘Clos de Betz’ combines some top vineyards including DuBrul Vineyard Merlot, Red Willow Vineyard Merlot as well as a good portion of Olsen Vineyard Petit Verdot. In the glass this shows a very dense core. Very plush and soft on the mouth, this shows a refined texture and wonderful sense of structure. Elegant tannins combine with mocha, tar, black currants and blackberry compote on the palate. This is elegant, refined Merlot that is drinking marvelously now. Drink 2023-2035- 94

2013 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- This 2013 vintage has as high percentage of Olsen Vineyard Petit Verdot blended in. Mocha, tar and roasted dates all mark the nose. The palate shows good flavor density with refined tannins and great texture on the mouth. Layers of milk chocolate covered black cherry and cigar box tones combine with coffee grounds on the palate. Very structured and dense, this will age gracefully for another decade. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2012 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2012 ‘Clos de Betz’ is marvelous wine from this very classic vintage. This has evolved to be exceedingly youthful and fragrant on the nose. Black rose water and dark chocolate flavors combine with light tannins on the palate.  Less on the fleshy side for this wine and more on the structured and nuanced side, this still has a long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2011 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2011 ‘Clos de Betz’ comes off lean and herbal, with angular tannins. This seems to be past its peak. Drink 2023-2025- 89

2010 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2010 ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a touch lean from this vintage. Lighter blackberry and black cherry notes mingle with good underlying finesse. Drink now. Drink 2023-2025- 90

2009 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The heady 2009 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine is a fantastic showing now at fourteen year mark. For my palate this wine shows considerably better than the ’10 or ’11. Dark chocolate shavings, tar and tobacco leaf flavors combine with silty soils on the palate. The level of nuance and rich mouthfeel really satisfies and serves as a reminder how good this vintage was. Very fresh even now, this is drinking beautifully at this juncture — and has a long way to go. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2008 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine-  The 2008 Clos de Betz is a stunning showing which is wonderfully fresh with gobs of bright acidity. Layers of boysenberry and black currants combine with smoky minerals with sandalwood notes on the palate. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this displays the very pure quality of Merlot. The 2008 is clearly a great wine from a great vintage. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2007 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2007 evokes some beautiful high tones on the nose wth violets, black currants and wet gravel. The palate is remarkably fresh with good purity of black fruits. Still wonderfully fresh, enjoy now and over the next eight plus years. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2006 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Really delicious to consume now, the 2006 Clos de Betz offers milk chocolate tones alongside dried herbs and blackberry notes. The palate has good freshness and shows a beautiful purity of fruit, with good flavor density. No reason to sit on this beauty. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2005 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2005 ‘Clos de Betz’ is deeply colored in the glass. It is rich and voluptuous on the mouth, loaded with rich flavors. Mocha, creosote, garrigue and roasted dates combine with boysenberry flavors. This is a stunning, decadent showing that is drinking beautifully right now. Enjoy over the next decade. Drink 2023-2030- 94

2004 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The gorgeous 2004 ‘Clos de Betz’ is very fresh on the nose with dense dark fruits and pencil lead notes. The palate shows good structure and carries mocha, ripe figs and copious minerals. Drink now. Drink 2023-2027- 92

2003 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Nearly as good as the 2001, the more flamboyant and hedonistic 2003 is an outstanding showing from this warmer vintage. Macerated cherry, ripe date and blackberry flavors with toasty oak all combine on the palate. This is dense and delicious, highly reductive wine that won’t get any better. Drink 2023-2027- 92

2002 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2002 Clos de Betz is deep and refined wine that comes from this stunning vintage in the Columbia Valley. Littered with dense dark fruits (figs, black currants, blackberries) with freshly tilled salty soils and lovely underlying acidity greet you on the palate. Finishing long with black currants and minerals, this is truly delicious wine that is literally singing now at the twenty plus year mark. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2001 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- Coming from a slightly warmer year, the 2001 Clos de Betz is highly perfumed with its red rose petals once on the nose. The palate is deep and concentrated with gobs of finesse and beautiful pomegranate and Bing cherry fruits. With more air the light wild mushroom notes combine with the beautiful underlying freshness and salinity. This is really refined 2001 that still has a ways to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2000 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- The 2000 Clos de Betz also displays a deep core just like the ’99. Green bell pepper aromas with black tea, boysenberry and cocoa powder with a light medicinal edge all meld in the glass. The palate is very soft and seamless with great underlying acidity and a light dusting of salinity. This is seriously good stuff to enjoy now and is one of the better wines I have tasted recently from the somewhat challenging 2000 vintage. Drink 2023-2030- 93

1999 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- This 1999 Clos De Betz comes from the very classic, cooler vintage. It is showing unbelievably well right now. Immediately gratifying grapheme much and wild blackberry and garrrigue notes hit the nose with red bell pepper all impress. The palate has great density and finesse. This is one of the great wines I have tasted from this vintage — a total home run! Drink 2023-2030- 94

1997 Betz ‘Clos de Betz’ Red Wine- 1997 marked the first vintage of this wine. This Merlot dominant blend displays beautiful medicinal notes on the nose, with dried sage, white pepper, bergamot and ripe red cherry tones on the nose. The palate is still fresh and well-balanced with lighter to medium-bodied red fruit flavors, with nice underlying finesse and light tannins producing structure. Enjoy now. Drink 2023-2027- 91

Champagne Billecart-Salmon

For years I have admired the glorious range of wines by famed producer Billecart-Salmon. Small in production but large in quality, Billecart-Salmon controls an estate of 100 hectares, obtaining grapes from an area totalling 300 hectares across 40 crus of the Champagne region. The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around Epernay, where the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay co-exist, in the vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs.

This house now spans a whopping seven generations, the house was formed with the marriage of 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon in 1818. This remains a family winery since the beginning with Louis Salmon, brother of Elisabeth and a passionate oenologist, getting involved in the creation of the wines.

In 1964 their tete de cuvee, ‘Cuvee Nicolas Francois’ was crafted to serve as an homage to their founder. The house has received considerable critical acclaim over the years, not only for their top wines, including the Clos Saint-Hilaire cuvée, first created with the 1995 vintage, but their Rose and vintage champagnes in particular. On the west coast of the United States, their Rose champagne is particularly one of the most popular champagnes that you will find in bars and restaurants.

Last year I had the honor of being hosted by seventh generation CEO Mr Mathieu Roland-Billecart, who assumed his position back in January 2019 from his cousin François Roland-Billecart, who headed the House since 1992. Mathieu is a larger than life personality with incredible knowledge and passion for his house and champagne. Lets just say that he doesn’t drink other houses champagnes!

I recently had the chance to try the beautiful new wines by Billecart-Salmon adored these wines that are quite honestly one of the finest overall lineups you will find in this region. The famed NV Billecart-Salmon Rose Champagne (OB, 92) is fresh, finesse-driven and very pretty. This is one that is complex but also super crushable. I was blown away with the new 2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Louis Salmon’ Champagne (OB, 97) which is one of the great Blanc de Blancs Champagnes that I have tasted over the past year. The richness, tension and nerve of this wine is just extraordinary. It’ll live on for another twenty years. Learn more about this incredible champagne house at https://www.champagne-billecart.fr Here are the beautiful new Champagnes by Billecart-Salmon.

NV Billecart Salmon ‘Grand Cru’ Blanc de Blancs- Created with a base of 2015 vintage Chardonnay sourced from Cotes de Blancs set on deep, chalky soils. The nose is particularly rich with lemon oil dusted Challah bread, cardamom and suggestions of Marcona almond. The palate is deep and concentrated with gorgeous orange rind and honeydew melon flavors alongside shades of salted pralines. Gorgeous to consume now, this has some brilliant aging potential. Drink 2023-2033- 94

NV Billecart Salmon Brut Nature- The NV Billecart Salmon Brut Nature is made from 40% Pinot Meunier sourced from the Marne with 30% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir with the base being from the 2016 vintage. A whiff of green apple and salted cashew greet you alongside hints of biscotti. The silky mousse greets you as with lovely weight and beautiful finesse, finishing long. Drink 2023-2028- 93

NV Billecart Salmon Brut Rose- The NV Billecart Salmon Brut Rose is a beautiful wine with a base from the 2017 vintage. This wine was first produced in the 1970s and gained acclaim in the 1990s. Blended with a larger portion of Chardonnay (40%) with equal parts Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, this displays pretty guava and strawberry flavors alongside salty and wet stone undertones on the palate. Finishing long, this outstanding Rose will continue to produce drinking enjoyment over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2029- 92

NV Billecart Salmon Brut Sous Bois Champagne- Entirely vilified in small barrels, the Brut Sous Bois this is blended with 33% of each variety with a base of 2013 (66%) with a high proportion of premier and grand cru wines. Rich and unctuous on the palate, the wine delivers kumquat oil flavors alongside green papaya, and salted shortbread flavors with serious tension and a lengthy finish. This has some glorious aging potential. Drink 2023-2037- 94

2008 Billecart Salmon ‘Cuvee Elizabeth Salmon’ Rose Champagne- Released in April 2021, the gorgeous 2008 Billecart Salmon ‘Cuvee Elizabeth Salmon’ Rose Champagne blends 55% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay from nearly all grand cru vineyards. The nose is incredibly complex and shows mature hazelnut and damp earthy tones alongside bright red fruits alongside Mandarin orange rind and exotic spices. The sense of balance and finesse is extraordinary as this shows a glorious combination of weight and pose. It is irresistible to savor now but will surely have a long life ahead of it. Drink 2023-2040- 97

2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Louis Salmon’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne- The simply stunning 2008 Billecart-Salmon ‘Louis Salmon’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne comes from this outstanding vintage and is sourced from 100% Chardonnay grands crus of Côte des Blancs  (mainly from Chouilly, Cramant, and Mesnil-sur-Oger). Aged on the lees for 11 years prior to being disgorged in October 2020, this was given 7G/L dosage. A golden hue in the glass, the nose is ultra-powerful with lemon and lime oil notes that combine with shades of white truffle, and pink grapefruit blossom. The palate is lithe and also very generous, with serious poise and a sterling expression of tension. Very nervy throughout the drinking experience, with stony and earthy undertones, this is complex and decidedly delicious Blanc de Blancs that has a long way to go in the cellar. Enjoy now and over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2023-2040- 96

MacRostie Vineyards

I fondly recall my first visit to MacRostie, hosted by fellow Whitman alum Steve MacRostie. For many years I have loved these wines, particularly the value that their entry level wines bring. MacRostie Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have quite frankly been a regional pillar in value and you can find these wines in supermarkets that span the entire United Sates. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has a illustrious history in the wine industry. After attaining her undergraduate degree from the University of Colorado at Boulder she worked in the laboratory of Jackson Family Wines before working at Clos du Bois, Oyster Bay as well as Sonoma-Cutrer. The new wines are all outstanding coming from the 2020 and 2019 vintages.

MacRostie sources from some great vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Sangiacomo, Martinelli and Bacigalupi, and from MacRostie’s Estate Wildcat Mountain Vineyard which was purchased decades back. I love the new 2020 MacRostie ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 93)  which is deep and concentrated, coming off very clean from this challenging vintage. which is nicely textured and shows delicious orchard fruit flavors. I adore the new 2019 MacRostie ‘Sparkling Brut’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 91) which is fresh and shows a lovely texture and silky mousse. Learn more about this great Sonoma winery at https://macrostiewinery.com/ Here are the outstanding wines by MacRostie.

2019 MacRostie Vineyards ‘Sparkling Brut’ Sparkling Wine- The 2019 ‘Sparkling Brut’ is a methode champenoise wine that spent 30 months en tirage before disgorgement in August 2022. This is very fresh on the mouth, with a ripe texture. Layers of honeydew melon and baked apple combine with good finesse on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next seven years. Drink 2023-2030- 91

2021 Clockwise Sauvignon Blanc- The 2021 Clockwise Sauvignon Blanc was matured entirely in stainless steel and was mostly sourced from the Jewell Ranch. White grapefruit and nectarine tones combine with shades of gooseberry and stony minerals on the nose. The palate is very fresh and lithe with a soft texture upon entry. Gorgeous to consume now, enjoy over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

2021 MacRostie Vineyards Rose- Sourced mostly from a cooler portion of the Thale’s Estate Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this was fermented in both stainless steel and neutral oak barrels before bottling. A pretty salmon hue, this offers guava and cranberry flavors that mingle well with shades of kumquat and wet rock on the palate. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2020 MacRostie Vineyards ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Coming from a site near the Gap’s Crown Vineyard, the ‘Nightwing Vineyard’ is set at 1400 feet and features 44 acres of Pinot Noir and 30 acres of Chardonnay. This wine is very fresh and smooth on the mouth with a sensational texture. Layers of buttercream and lemon rind dusted brioche combine with salted praline notes on the palate. Complex and quite salty, this utterly fabulous Chardonnay to enjoy now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2020 MacRostie ‘Day Ranch Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Day Ranch Vineyard’ is an Anderson Valley site that is planted to a range of clonal selection Pinot Noir. The wine was stored for ten months in 25% new French oak before bottling, as it slowly unveils ripe red currants and tobacco leaf with flinty undertones on the nose. The palate comes off fresh and beautifully textured, with concentrated tart red fruit and citrus rind flavors. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 92

Dom Perignon Rose Champagne

For years I have loved the very special Dom Perignon Rose Champagne, having tasted this beauty back to the 1990s. There was always something special and unique about this limited production wine. The first vintage of the Dom Perignon Champagne dates back to the 1921 vintage and was later released for sale in 1936. Not long after its release, Moet & Chandon acquired the Dom Perignon brand name. The first Dom Perignon Rose was introduced in 1959 and nearly all of the wine was sent to the Shah of Iran to be served at his celebration to mark the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian Empire in 1971! Dom Perignon Rose became made commercially available back in 1962.

For what seemed like an eternity he first vintage of the Dom Perignon Champagne was produced in 1921 and released for sale in 1936. Shortly after its release, Moet & Chandon acquired the brand name. The Dom Perignon Rose was only produced in 26 select vintages from 1959 to 2006. The new edition of Rose comes from the downright epic 2008 vintage— one that saw near perfect conditions at harvest.

I was enamored by the 2004 and 2006 editions of this wine. But the 2008 edition absolutely eclipses these wines. The 2008 Dom Perignon Rose (OB, 98) needs really an hour in the decanter to fully get going. We watched this wine evolve over several hours and it really improved, albeit involving a very deliberate unraveling process. Once aroused this evokes such a pretty red fruit profile alongside the incredible musty and earthy character of the wine. Refined bubbles make this such a delight to consume and at more than 400 USD, this is no cheap treat. Learn more about this very special wine at https://www.domperignon.com/ww-en/champagne/vintage/dom-perignon-rose/2008 and here is my review of the scintillating 2008 Dom Perignon Rose Champagne.

2008 Dom Perignon Rose Champagne- The 2008 Dom Perignon Rose spent a whopping 12 years en tirage before disgorgement. It is nothing short of a masterpiece with each working part humming along in unison. Pinot Noir grapes were sourced from “Chants de Linottes” parcels in Hautvillers as well as the “Vauzelles” parcels in Aÿ. Right away the haunting aromatics grip the senses, with red rose petals, raspberry coulis, and suggestions of enoki mushroom, with bright kumquat blossom notes that all take shape in the glass. The palate shows refined bubbles and an ultra-silky mousse. Gorgeous layers of red fruits immediately greet you on the palate. With more air suggestions of peat moss and white truffle shavings enter the fray. A complete wine, this improves considerably with an hour in the decanter. Enjoy this ageless beauty now and over the next twenty plus years. Drink 2023-2043- 98

Sparkman Cellars Retrospective

Last weekend I underwent an incredible journey back in time to enjoy vintages 2013 and 2009 from the Sparkman Cellars wine library. Accompanied by Sparkman Cellars founder Christian Sparkman as well as winemaker Linn Scott, we were all amazed as we tasted these older wines. One thing we noticed right away was the freshness that was intact in the white wines.

Kelly and Chris Sparkman founded Sparkman Cellars in Woodinville, Washington back in 2004.  They started with 12 barrels of wine (289 cases) and three labels in a tiny warehouse. By their third year they had amassed 1425 cases of wine and eight labels. Today they produce over 12,000 cases in their beautiful new location which was formerly the Redhook Brewery in Woodinville.

I loved the white wines of the tasting. Both the 2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling (OB, 92) and the 2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Lumiere’ Chardonnay (OB, 94) were not only very delicious wines but had a great underlying finesse from this warm vintage. Grenache has been one of the most popular wines produced by Sparkman and I adored their 2013 ‘Wonderland’ Grenache (OB, 93) which was still very pure in terms of bright red fruits, and showed a silky texture with good weight. This thing was right in its sweet spot. Syrah is not always a varietal that ages well in Washington. But the 2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Darkness’ Syrah (OB, 93) was extremely finesse-driven with plenty of depth and flavor density. I was amazed by the overall quality of these wines that reminds you that great Washington wine is built to age. Learn more about these outstanding wines at sparkmancellars.com

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Birdie’ Riesling- The 2013 ‘Birdie’ utilizes Giesenheim 198 and Neustadt 90 clonal selections (two blocks at Bacchus Vineyard), as this was mostly stored in stainless steel tanks before bottling. Very stony, this is showing rich petrol alongside green apple notes on the nose. The palate is very refined and beautifully textured, showing good weight. Enjoy this beauty now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Lumiere’ Chardonnay- Coming from the Stillwater Creek and Oasis Vineyards, the 2013 ‘Lumiere’ offers ripe pear and nutmeg dusted brioche notes alongside shades of marzipan and creme brûlée on the nose. The palate comes off very fresh despite the heat of the vintage. Layers of buttercream and baking spices collide with sourdough bread and lemon meringue all seamlessly come together on the palate. Showing serious weight and length, this is seriously impressive wine that is really peaking right now. Drink 2023-2029- 94

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘L’Autre’ Pinot Noir- The 2013 ‘L’Autre’ comes from the famed Temperance Hill Vineyard in the Willamette Valley, as this was stored for 16 months in 40% new French oak before bottling. This comes off a touch lean and linear with red cherry, red raspberry and toasty oak flavors. This shows the challenges of the vintage that saw torrential rains at harvest, as it is lacking both depth and flavor density. Drink 2023-2026- 88

2013 Sparkman Cellars ‘Wonderland’ Grenache- The 2013 ‘Wonderland’ has 12% Syrah blended in. Aged in 25% new French oak before bottling for 13 months, this offers rich loganberry, Bing cherry cordial and garrigue notes alongside shades of pomegranate seed. The Syrah added adds depth to the mid-palate. Ripe, with good underlying acidity and texture, this is outstanding wine to consume now and over the next several years. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2004 Sparkman Cellars ‘Stella Mae’ Syrah- The 100% varietal 2004 ‘Stella Mae’ comes from Red Mountain. Rich and intense, with black olives, black tea, blackberry cobbler and suggestions of creosote, this is a delicious, forward and juicy wine that is beautifully evolved now. Enjoy over the next few years to come. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Ruby Leigh’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Ruby Leigh’ is an awesome blend of 70% Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc with the remainder Malbec which was entirely sourced from the Red Mountain AVA. This 2009 is already nicely evolved now at the fourteen year mark. Red currants, pencil lead, toasty oak and wild mushroom tones all come together on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Stella Mae’ Red Wine- The 2009 ‘Stella Mae’ is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 20% Cabernet Franc coming from the Klipsun, Kiona and La Coye Vineyards. Aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak, this offers ripe red currants with red rose water, tobacco leaf with good underlying finesse and a soft mouthfeel. Finishing long with minerals, this is delicious to savor right now. Drink 2023-2028- 92

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Kingpin’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Made from 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Petit Verdot, this comes for the Kiona, Klisun and Double Canyon Vineyards, this was stored for 63% new French oak for 20 months before bottling. Rainier cherry with creosote, menthol and suggestions of exotic spices all come together on the nose. The palate is soft and refined with a silky mouthfeel. Layers of toasty oak bring everything together nicely, as this is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2023-2031- 93

2009 Sparkman Cellars ‘Darkness’ Syrah- The 2009 ‘Darkness’ comes form the Ciel du Coeval Vineyard on Red Mountain. Stored for 20 months in 88% new French oak before bottling, this delivers gorgeous dried sagebrush, white pepper and bacon fat tones on the nose alongside rich roasted fig notes. The palate comes off very fresh and shows good depth and finesse, with salty undertones. Considering the age of this wine this offers shocking acidity. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Drink 2023-2028- 93

2010 Sparkman Cellars ‘Hallelujah’ Touriga Nacional- Truly a unique dessert wine, the ‘Hallelujah’ is a Touriga Nacional wine that comes from the Red Heaven vineyard on Red Mountain. Blueberry compote, with black licorice, mocha and dried herbs all hit the nose. The palate is plush, showing a soft mouthfeel and shows sweetened blue and black fruits with espresso ground undertones. Enjoy now and over the next five to seven years. Drink 2023-2029- 92

Boudreaux Cellars

Today we share one of the great producers based in the Leavenworth, Washington area. Boudreaux Cellars utilizes the talents of former Leonetti protege Rob Newsom. A former mountain and rock climbing guide, Newsom is originally from Louisiana and trained with Gary Figgins before making his own homemade wine back in 1998. His first commercial wines were made in 2001 but he needed a name for his winery. Chris Figgins suggested he name his winery Boudreaux after the infamous Cajun folklore character known for his brilliant sense of humor and pursuit of high adventure.

Boudreaux has tasting rooms at their Icicle Canyon winery location as well as downtown Leavenworth. For years I have purchased these wines and have bene so impressed with the aging potential. The wines that Newsom makes are released considerably later than most other wineries. I fondly recall vintages 2006-2008 of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that I purchased and sadly those wines have all been enjoyed from my cellar. The new vintage (2016) Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new wine that is really singing now at the seven year mark. Learn more at boudreauxcellars.com and here is my review of the new 2016 Boudreaux Cabernet Sauvignon wine.

2016 Boudreaux Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon- The gorgeous 2016 Boudreaux Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is a silky edition of this wine that is already drinking marvelously. Once on the nose this shows gorgeous red florals and red raspberry tones that combine with freshly tilled soils, dark currants and sandalwood accents. The palate is plush and viscous, with good weight and underlying finesse. Finishing long with black fruits and minerals, this is a gorgeous bottling that is really hitting its stride now — and will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another ten years. Drink 2023-2035- 94

Leonetti Cellar

Ask anyone in the Washington wine industry if they recall their first bottle of Leonetti Cellar wine. I can assure you that they will have a story for you! Mine was an unforgettable 2000 Merlot when I was in graduate school. I will never forget that silky mouthfeel and concentration! For decades Leonetti has been producing some of the state’s finest red wines. They now also have an amazing single vineyard Cabernet project is a great chance for winemaker Chris Figgins to showcase the diverse terroirs of the Walla Walla Valley. Chris also makes one of the great Aglianico wines you will find in North America.

It is an honor to be the first critic to taste these pre-release wines. This weekend I opened each bottle and tasted them over several hours, watching them evolve. The wines all need patience and a lot of air. Over time each evolved into some of the finest single variety wines of their kind. Don’t miss out on the incredible 2017 Leonetti Cellar Aglianico (OB, 94) which is amongst the best New World expressions of this varietal that you will find. I really loved the 2020 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese (OB, 95) which is generous and broad-shouldered, with incredible structure and weight. The finest wine I tasted was the scintillating 2020 Leonetti Cellar ‘Reserve’ Red Wine (OB, 97) which is massive and heady right now, really needing a few years of cellaring. This one will be a treat to enjoy in a few years! Learn more about these stunning new wines at http://leonetticellar.com/ Here are my reviews of the beautiful new Leonetti Cellar wines. 

2020 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese- The 2020 Sangiovese is another sensational offering by Chris Figgins that comes from the Seven Hills, Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Holy Roller Vineyards. Like other editions of this wine, the quality in the glass will easily equal any other Sangio made in North America.  Aged for 22 months in a combination of new and used French oak barrels, this offers lovely tension with a seamless mouthfeel on the approach. Blood orange zest, menthol, Bing cherry compote and suggestions of bay leaf all combine beautifully on the palate. Showing good richness and depth, this beauty has let to fully hit its stride. Try to resist the 2020 Sangiovese for at least another year, as this awesome new wine has some serious potential.  Drink 2023-2035- 95

2021 Leonetti Cellar Merlot- The 2021 Leonetti Cellar Merlot is a flat-out delicious new bottling that will live on for decades.  Coming from the Loess, Mill Creek Upland and Leonetti Old Block Vineyards, the 100% Merlot was stored for 15 months in new and used barrels and puncheons, as well as oval botti, prior to bottling. Roasted dates, with mocha, tar and huckleberry notes fill the nose. The palate is very dense, with beautiful underlying finesse and rich dark currant, blackberry and chocolate covered dark cherry flavors combine with gobs of minerality on the palate. I can see this gorgeous 2021 Merlot cellaring well for decades. If enjoying now give this two hours in the decanter. Drink 2024-2040- 95

2020 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon- You have to admire the thrilling 2020 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon which is truly one of the great wines produced in this challenging vintage. .Sourced from the Seven Hills, Loess, Mill Creek Upland, Serra Pedace, Holy Roller and Leonetti Old Block vineyards, the wine is a combination of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, with equal parts Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc. Very inky in the glass,  this offers violets, tar and copious dark fruits on the nose alongside espresso bean notes. The palate shows vibrant underlying acidity alongside intense black currant, coffee ground and huckleberry flavors, with hints of menthol and cigar ash. Very fresh and heady, give this at least two hours in the decanter before enjoying.  Enjoy this highly hedonistic Cabernet Sauvignon now and over the next ten to fifteen years to come. Drink 2024-2037- 96

2017 Leonetti Aglianico- The 2017 Leonetti Aglianico is a truly one of a kind wine that comes from this somewhat cooler vintage in the Walla Walla Valley. Stored for 44 months in a combination of terracotta amphorae and French oak (both new and used) barrels, this comes from the high elevation Serra Pedace Vineyard. The wine is seamlessly textured, with firm tannins providing serious grip. Layers of sweet pipe tobacco collide with bitter chocolate, espresso grounds, and boysenberry liquor. Very rustic and appealing now, with scorched earthy accents, and fabulous freshness, this may just be the finest Aglianico that Leonetti has crafted. Enjoy now and over the next two decades. Give this two hours in the decanter if enjoying now. Drink 2023-2042- 94

2020 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine- The 2020 Leonetti ‘Reserve’ Red Wine is a compelling combination of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon with a large portion of Malbec (12%) and a touch of Petit Verdot (5%). It is very inky once in the glass, showing a deep purple core, slowly unveiling layers of violets, graphite, Turkish coffee and blueberry compote. The palate is silky and smooth with very refined tannins and marvelous concentration. The Malbec seems to be stealing the show right now with its Black Forest cake notes, alongside suggestions of creosote and intense blue fruit flavors. Try to hold off on savoring this beauty for another year or so. Drink 2024-2040—  97

Treveri Cellars

Today we share one of the famed sparkling wine houses in Washington State. Treveri opened its doors on November 23, 2010, focusing to help put Washington sparkling wine on the map. Since its opening, Treveri wine has been served at White House State Department receptions and the James Beard Foundation in New York. They are widely served in airports and have also been featured on Alaska Airlines (on plane and in lounge). The winery makes a wide array of sparkling wines, including non-traditional varieties such as Riesling and Mueller-Thurgau, Treveri largely focuses on 100% varietal sparkling wines, and has more recently produced a reserve tier of sparkling wine which are all very impressive.

Founder Jurgen Grieb is originally from one of the Riesling capitals of the world, Trier, which is a quaint town on the Mosel river. Jurgan came to the United States and had a long term goal to make sparkling wine in Washington State. For years he made wine at Treveri and now works closely with his son, Christian. Years back Christian earned his BA in Business Administration from Seattle University, and has since translated his business skills to Treveri Cellars, where he now works alongside his father.

Since beginning his career at Treveri, Christian has completed many harvests as Winemaker, and also achieved his UC Davis Winemaking Certificate program. Treveri makes a range of wines that are all delightful to taste. I love the great value NV Treveri ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 89) which is very fresh and shows nice weight, with pretty red fruits. Don’t miss out on one of their special reserve wines, which is amongst the finest sparkling wine I have tasted from Washington State. I adored the 2011 Treveri ‘Extended Tirage’ Sparkling Wine (OB, 94) as this wine shows great astringency from this cooler vintage, with excellent weight and incredible nuance. This is a must-buy for any Pacific Northwest sparkling wine collector. Learn more about this famed bubbles house at http://www.trevericellars.com and here are my reviews of the great new Treveri wines.

NV Treveri ‘Blanc de Blancs Brut Zero’ Sparkling Wine- Given no dosage, the ‘Brut Zero’ this offers very sour apple and pear notes alongside sourdough bread. Drink 2022-2025- 88

NV Treveri ‘Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine- A very pretty pink color, this offers pretty guava and red raspberry flavors alongside good verve and biscuit notes on the palate. The astringency is nice here. Drink 2022-2026- 89

NV Treveri Rose Sparkling Wine- A touch cloying, this offers ripe peach and sweetened cherry flavors. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2025- 86

2019 Treveri ‘Estate Blanc de Blancs’ Sparkling Wine- Here we have a really nice rendition of Washington Blanc de Blancs from this slightly cooler vintage. Disgorged on 11/7/22, this was given 3G/L dosage. This is very soft and refined with a silky mousse. Bright pear, lemon rind and shades of cardamom dusted French bread all come together nicely in this very elegant rendition. The combination of weight and salty undertones really make this tick. This has no rough edges. Enjoy now and over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2016 Treveri ‘Estate Blanc de Noirs’ Sparkling Wine- This 100% Pinot Noir wine comes from  the warm 2016 vintage, as this was given 10G/L dosage and was disgorged in November 2020. A soft mousse entices, as this comes off very elegant. Salted Marcona almond, white peach, Mirabelle plum and shades of candied ginger all entice on the palate. Finishing long with good richness and length, enjoy this outstanding Blanc de Noirs now and over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2017 Treveri ‘Brut Rose’ Sparkling Wine- The 2017 ‘Brut Rose’ comes from both the Marchant and Clos Chevalle Vineyards in the Columbia Valley. A very pretty salmon color, this was given 5G/L dosage and was disgorged in May 2021. A pretty core of red fruits emerges, with guava, ripe red currants, and wild strawberry notes alongside a soft mousse and good veil of tension on the palate. Showing a light salinity and stony undertones, this is fantastic Rose sparkling wine that is a far cry from their NV Rose. Dink this beauty now and over the next eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Treveri ‘Larkin Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine- The 2019 ‘Larkin Cuvee’ comes for the Aurum Trevor Estate Vineyard. An intriguing blend of 65% Pinot Meunier with the remainder Pinot Blanc, this was given 4G/L dosage and was disgorged in August 2022. This is very astringent and salty, showing white peach, green apple and flinty undertones. This drinks like a great zero dosage with its racy acidity, so enjoy now while this tension remains intact. Drink 2022-2028- 91

2016 Treveri ‘Classic Blend’ Sparkling Wine- The 2016 ‘Classic Blends’ combines 40% each Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with the remainder Chardonnay. Grapes were harvested in late August 2016, as this was given 8G/L dosage. Everything is nicely in balance here, with a smooth entry and lengthy finish. Orchard and melon fruits combine with salty and stony undertones on the palate. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2015 Treveri ‘Extended Tirage’ Sparkling Wine- 2015 was a far from easy vintage to make sparkling wine, as this is the earliest harvest in Washington State wine history. A blend of 60% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay, this was disgorged in April 2022. You have to love the weight here, as the soft bubbles caress you upon entry. Layers of baking spice dusted brioche, lemon rind and cantaloupe combine with cashew nut accents on the palate. This is seriously good considering the challenges of the vintage. Drink 2022-2029- 94

2011 Treveri ‘Extended Tirage’ Sparkling Wine- The 2011 ‘Extended Tirage’ come from the cooler 2011 vintage — one that saw a very extended harvest. Grapes for this wine were picked all the way in mid-October, as this was given 6G/L dosage. A brilliant golden hue, this offers cinnamon sticks and cloves on the nose with freshly baked pita bread, ginger and lychee on the nose. The palate is wonderfully fresh, with loads of citrus oil producing a mouth-watering acidity effect. Showing good weight, this finishes very long with white grapefruit zest and stony minerals. This is a completely different animal from the 2015 but is equally as good. Drink 2022-2029- 94

Hertelendy

Hertelendy wines are based in Hungarian tradition which dates back to centuries. The Hertelendy story is inspired by the founder’s great uncle Gabor Hertelendy who grew two varietals in his basalt-mountain vineyards overlooking Lake Balaton: Szürkebarát (better known as Pinot Gris) and Kéknyelű (a rare Hungarian white wine grape only found in the Badacsony wine region).

After his family immigrated from Hungary and settled down in the San Francisco Bay Area, Ralph Hertelendy began his wine love affair at a very young age — drinking French Grand Crus at the age of 5! Ralph was 15 when he created his first beer and then made his first wine in a basement at age 25. After getting his business degree from the University of San Francisco, Ralph became a sommelier and worked for several wineries in the Napa Valley as a Winemaker’s Assistant and in sales.

Ralph and his family rely today on the talents of winemaker Phillip Titus, one of Napa’s most prestigious winemakers. A graduated of the famed UC Davis Enology and Viticulture program, Titus began his focus on viticulture and wine at the age of 12 when he began helping his father in the family vineyard.

He has crafted an incredible new lineup of wines for Hertelendy. Don’t miss out on the incredible 2018 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is powerful and concentrated, with tons of aging potential. Even better is the drop-dead gorgeous 2018 Hertelendy ‘Signature’ Red Wine (OB, 97) which is dense and massive, with incredible flavor range. This is elegant and refined Napa that you won’t want to miss out on. Learn more about this famed Napa house at https://hertelendy.com/ and here are the outstanding new wines by Hertelendy.

208 Hertelendy ‘Ritchie Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Coming from this famed vineyard in the Russian River Valley, the Ritchie Vineyard is a more than 20 year old site that is set on sandy loam soils. This is very dense and heady with layers of ripe pineapple, ripe mango, white peach and suggestions of salted Marcona almonds. Finishing very long wth saline drenched pear and minerals, this is gorgeous Chardonnay to consume now and over the next ten years. Drink 2023-2033- 94

2018 Hertelendy ‘Audere’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘Audere’ offers medium to full-bodied Turkish coffee and dark chocolate shaving flavors alongside a good degree of finesse. With more air, freshly tiled soil and stony notes combine with the rich dark fruits. Enjoy now and over the next decade. 39% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and smaller parts Malbec, Petit Verdot and a dash of Cabernet Franc. Drink 2023-2033- 93

2018 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The brilliant 2018 Hertelendy ‘Napa Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in 23 months in 90% New French and Hungarian Oak prior to bottling. A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot with a dash of Malbec and Merlot, this offers intense Asian spices that combine with creme de cassis, anise, Black Forest cake and suggestions of loamy soils on the nose. The palate is juicy and refined, with plenty or rocky tones that combine with a dense core of dark fruits, with chocolate covered espresso bean flavors. Refined and also very gratifying to consume now, this beauty has another two decades in front of it. Drink 2023-2042- 95

2018 Hertelendy ‘Signature’ Red Wine- The world-class 2018 Hertelendy ‘Signature’ Red Wine is sourced from their Rockwell Ridge Vineyard, as well as sites on Howell Mountain, Pritchard Hill, and Atlas Peak. Stored in 90% French and Hungarian oak, this blends 60% Merlot, and 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the remainder Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. Very inky in the glass, this reveals creme de violette, mocha, tar and black licorice flavors that combines with wet gravel on the palate. Refined and elegant, this is a stunning new wine that has a really long way to go in the cellar. Drink 2023-2045- 97

Lange

For years I have admired the wines from Lange, one of Oregon’s great historic wineries, It was back in 1987 that Don Lange, took a chance by acquiring a large chunk of land that had sweeping views of the Willamette Valley. Don made the wines for many years and over time his son Jesse transitioned into their head winemaker, taking over for his father.

Jesse’s formal winemaking training occurred at New Zealand’s Lincoln University while on a student exchange scholarship from Oregon State in 1999. Jesse then spent two years as cellar rat for winemaker Bruce McGuire at Santa Barbara Winery prior to coming back to his family winery. He joined the winemaking team in 2004 and has served on the board of the Willamette Valley Wineries Association. They opened their new tasting room in 2018 which is simply gorgeous.

I adored the new releases by Lange. Don’t miss on the stunning new 2021 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which has great stuffing and some serious aging potential. Almost as good is the excellent value 2021 Lange ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir (OB, 92) which shows loads of finesse and mouth-watering acidity Learn more about this outstanding Oregon winery at https://www.langewinery.com/ Here are the great new wines by Lange Estate

2021 Lange ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- The gorgeous ‘Three Hills Cuvee’ offers forward and juicy pomegranate, strawberry, citrus rind and bergamot flavors on the palate. It is medium to full-bodied and chalk-filled of minerality, with an incredible purity of red fruits, this is a simply delicious wine that is already very beautiful to consume now. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2021 Lange ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir- I’ve been tasting this wine back more than a decade and the 2021 ‘Reserve’ is up there with the finest renditions of this wine that I have tasted. A barrel selection wine, the ‘Reserve’ takes off with very pretty guava and red cherry notes that combine with garrigue accents and salty soils on the palate. Very fresh and fragrant, this thing is only starting to hit its stride. Considering the richness, flavor density and finesse, you have the feeling that this beauty will go another twenty years! Drink 2023-2038- 93

2021 Lange ‘Yamhill-Carlton Assemblage’ Pinot Noir- This beautiful 2021 Pinot Noir comes fro several vineyards in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Once on the nose he takes on layers of ripe guava and boysenberry alongside freshly tilled soils and suggestions of roasted hazelnut that all meld in the glass. The palate is very polished and fresh with good concentration and underlying tension. Delicious to consume now, enjoy over the next decade. Drink 2023-2033- 92

2021 Lange ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- For years I have enjoyed the finesse-driven wines from the famed ‘Freedom Hill Vineyard’ which was first planted back back in 1981. This is very fresh and finesse-driven with tart pomegranate, orange rind, caramel and suggestions of volcanic soils on the palate. Dense, heady and also very weightless, this is beautiful Pinot Noir that is already very well-integrated at the two year mark. Drink 2023-2038- 93

Madrona Bay

Brothers making great wines — that is the story of Madrona Bay. James Stickney graduated from the University of Washington with a Major in microbiology and a minor in statistics. In 2019 James graduated with his Diploma in wine and spirits from the Wine and Spirits education trust. He currently applies is trade making wine at Betz Family Winery. His brother, Pearce Stickney went a different route; dropping out of college to pursue a career with Starbucks coffee. Pearce worked through the ranks, managing stores in various Washington cities for the company. In 2019 Pearce graduated with his Diploma in Wine and Spirits from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust and has been working at K Vintners for several years under Brennon Leighton.

The brothers team for a micro-production winery and their wines by Madrona Bay come from a range of vineyards including the Olsen and Les Vignes Letendre sites in the Yakima Valley. Tasting with James, I was very impressed with his current lineup. The best wine I tasted was the 2019 Madrona Bay ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Counoise (OB, 93) which is powerful and dense, yet shows a pretty, fragrant character. Don’t miss out on this beauty. Learn more at https://www.madronabaywine.com and here are my reviews of the new Madrona Bay wines.

2019 Madrona Bay ‘Les Vignes Letendre’ Grenache- This comes from a site located in the Yakima Valley right next to the Olsen Vineyard which is set on fractured basalt. This underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation, as this was stored in neutral oak before bottling. This comes off very perfumed with red rose petals with red cherry compote, garrigue and stony undertones. The palate is very fresh and soft with a silky mouthfeel. Layers of pretty red fruits collide with stony minerals and salty undertones. Delicious now, enjoy over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2029- 92

2019 Madrona Bay ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Counoise- Coming from this famed site in the Yakima Valley, the 2019 ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Counoise was stored in one neutral oak barrel and was given 100% whole cluster fermentation. This displays white pepper and Asian spices with potpourri and pretty guava tones. The palate shows a beautiful purity of fruit. Soft and silky on the mouth, this is very elegant wine that shows like a spicy Grenache — but this wine is all its own. Only 15 cases made. Drink 2023-2030- 93

2019 Madrona Bay ‘Elocution’ Red Wine- This is the one red blend that Madrona Bay makes, as this Rhone inspired wine combines 50% Syrah with smaller parts Mourvèdre, Counoise and Grenache. This mostly underwent whole cluster fermentation and was stored in natural oak before bottling. Very smoky and spicy on the nose with ripe roasted fig, blackberry and wild thyme notes. The palate is very fresh, as this comes off a touch lean with light red fruits with exotic spices and charcuterie accents. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2019 Madrona Bay ‘Les Vignes Letendre’ Syrah- This has roughly 25% Boushey Vineyard Syrah blended in, as the wine was stored in 100% neutral oak prior to bottling. Smoked meats and ripe dark cherry compote flavors fill the nose, with herbal accents. The palate is very wild and fresh with lovely sagebrush, yarrow and rabbitbrush notes alongside lighter dark fruit flavors. Enjoy now and over the next six years. Drink 2023-2029- 91

2019 Madrona Bay ’45 degrees 199 degrees west’ Red Wine- Coming from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, the 45 degrees 199 degrees west’ utilizes an older clone of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Martinez Vineyard that was stored in neutral oak. Walnut and boysenberry notes combine with salty and savory notes on the palate. Enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2023-2031- 90

2019 Madrona Bay ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The gorgeous 2019 ‘Heart of the Hill Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon was stored in neural oak before bottling. This is dense and heady on the mouth, with loads of refined tannins that combine with scorched earth, wild blackberry cobbler, anise, chocolate pie and a dusting of white pepper. Drink 2023-2035- 92