Big Table Farm

Today we celebrate one of Willamette’s greats as part of Oregon Wine Month. Big Table Farm has been on a wild ride since starting about fifteen years ago. I have been so impressed with the consistency of their wines. They are wines that show incredible range and texture. Superstar winemaker Brian Marcy has a longstanding history in the wine industry, living in Napa and previously serving as winemaker for Neyers prior to moving north and settling in the Willamette Valley. His wines are rich, terroir driven and show dazzling minerality. These are wines that are brilliant in their tension-filled youth but they age really well as well.

I adored the new 2021 spring releases. Two of the wines were made from the challenging 2020 vintage which had considerable early September smoke which swept across Oregon. Despite these conditions, Brian and Clare have created some of the best 2020 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines that I have tasted from this region. I absolutely loved the new 2021 Big Table Farm ‘Laughing Pig’ Rose (OB, 94) which is one of the finest Rose wines that I have tasted in the past year. Learn more about Big Table Farm at http://www.bigtablefarm.com/ Here are the fantastic new release wines by Big Table Farm.

2021 Big Table Farm ‘Laughing Pig’ Rose- The unfixed and unfiltered 2021 ‘Laughing Pig’ Rose is one of the great Rose wines out of Oregon that I have tasted over the past year. This Pinot Noir Rose saw extended skin contact, as this was stored in neutral oak barrels prior to bottling. Pink bubblegum and white grapefruit blossom combine with suggestions of white peach and strawberry shortcake. The downright stunning aromatics bring you back to the glass for more enjoyment. The palate is deep and concentrated, with spectacular length and flavor density. Not for the weary, this is a cellar worthy effort that has both the weight and finesse satisfy over the next eight years. Kudos to proprietors Clare Carver and Brian Marcy on this scintillating new effort. Drink 2022-203- 94

2020 Big Table Farm ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay- The 2020 ‘The Wild Bee’ Chardonnay is an excellent effort from this challenging vintage. Sourced from a host of Willamette Valley vineyards, this offers plenty in terms of finesse and texture. Layers of lemon zest dusted brioche and orange blossom collide with white rose water and shades of cardamom on the palate. Great to consume now, enjoy this beauty over the next seven plus years. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2020 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 Big Table Farm ‘Willamette Valley’ Pinot Noir was sourced from a range of vineyards across the valley, as this was stored in largely neutral oak barrels prior to bottling and being released in March 2022. It is one of the more impressive Pinot Noirs that I have tasted from the vintage. Very juicy and fruity with ripe red currants, red cherry candy and strawberry, with a good mineral backbone, this beautiful wine is best consumed over the next several years. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2019 Big Table Farm ‘Funk Estate Vineyard’ Syrah- For several years now Big Table Farm has been making this unique bottling from the Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, located in northeast Oregon. Aged mostly in neutral oak barrels, this reveals very classic Rocks notes of bacon fat, cigar ash and green peppercorns alongside rich dark fruits on the nose. The palate is seamless and soft, as this is an effortless drinking experience. Very pretty red and dark fruits parade with shades of milk chocolate, Nori and white pepper dusted smoked brisket. The combination of texture and finesse really works wonders here, as this beautifully evolved wine is best consumed over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 95

Gramercy Cellars

Today we share one of the jewels of Walla Walla. Gramercy Cellars was founded by winemaker and master sommelier, Greg Harrington, MS, crafts both Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, as he sources from some of the top vineyards in the state. He and Gramercy partner Brandon Moss also makes some of the best Rose in the Pacific Northwest as their Rose wines have consistently been towards the top of my Pacific Northwest Rose Report over the past few years. Harrington incredibly passed the master sommelier exam at the age of 26 in 1996, a remarkable feat. Partner and co-winemaker, Brandon Moss, shares Greg’s focus on prime fruit and minimal intervention, showcasing the typicity of the individual varietal. They have also partnered with Doubleback Winery to set up a posh wine bar in the SoDo district of Seattle. Having visited that spot a few times, I am highly impressed with the range of wines chosen by Harrington and this is also a unique chance to taste many of the Gramercy and Doubleback releases.

The new Gramercy Cellars were incredible from the 2021 vintage. I was blown away with the new 2021 Gramercy Cellars Rose (OB, 93) which shows marvelous texture and gobs of finesse with beautiful red fruits. This is one for the cellar. Learn more about these amazing wines at gramercycellars.com Here are the fantastic new wines by Gramercy Cellars and the superstar winemaking team of Greg Harrington, MS and Brandon Moss.

2021 Gramercy Cellars Picpoul- Sourced from the Walla Walla Valley, this beautiful edition of this wine unveils rich honeydew melon, bergamot and suggestions of nectarine with flinty undertones on the nose. The palate is rich without coming off as overly heavy. The core of minerality really drives this beautifully textured wine that could very well be the finest expression of this varietal that I have tasted out of Washington. Best served at a slightly warmer temperature to capture the entire range of flavors and aromatics. Drink 2022-2027- 93

2021 Gramercy Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Rose- The utterly fabulous 2021 Gramercy Cellars ‘Olsen Vineyard’ Rose is a captivating blend of 52% Cinsault with equal parts (24% each) Grenache and Syrah. The nose improves with some warming up and air. Wild mushroom and honeydew melon tones combine with shades of watermelon and guava on the nose, with light citrus blossom accents. The palate is fresh and beautifully textured, with good viscosity and tension. Very pretty red rose water tones mingle well with copious minerals, wet stone, strawberry Starburst candy and cantaloupe flavors. The long finish adds to the enjoyment, as this beautiful Rose is best enjoyed over the next seven years. Drink 2022-2029- 93

Chateau Suduiraut

Located in the commune of Preignac, Chateau Suduiraut is a famed Sauternes house with vineyards which border Château D’Yquem. The This historic property dates back to the 15th century. Sadly only one wing remains from the original chateau which was destroyed by the Duc d`Eperon in the 16th century. The present château was built in the 17th century by the Suduiraut family, who also commissioned a spectacular garden designed by Le Nôtre. Chateau Suduiraut was classified as a 1er Cru Classe in 1855. While some might contend that from 1940-1960 quality decreased, it is clear that the quality has been consistently good since 1992 when Château Suduiraut was purchased by the insurance group AXA which also owns Château Pichon-Longueville in Pauillac and Château Petit-Village in Pomerol. 

Château Suduiraut's 90 hectares of vineyards are planted with 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes are harvested in several "tries" and are fermented in 50-hectolitre stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged in small barriques (33% new) for 24 months. Suduiraut's winemaker Pierre Montégut has been crafting some exceptional wines for years. I have had the chance to review many of these older wines which are holding on really nicely — wines from 2001, 2003 and 2005 in particular still have a long way to go.I loved the 2005 Chateau Sudiuraut Sauternes (OB, 95) which is tension-filled and still has at least another fifteen years in front of it. Learn more about this famed Château at www.suduiraut.com Here are my tasting notes from a beautiful vertical tasting of Château Suduiraut.

2005 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes- Showing a slightly lighter color than you might expect, the really good 2005 Chateau Sudiuraut is a brilliant showing from this outstanding vintage in Sauternes. Once on the mouth, this is round and plump, with good viscosity that might remind you of the 2011 vintage. Roasted pineapple, vanilla creme brûlée and shades of apricot and honey all enter the fray, with delightful, mouth-watering acidity. Delicious to consume now, this has at least another ten to fifteen years to go. Drink 2022-2037- 95

2021 Chateau Suduiraut 'Lions du Suduiraut' Blanc Sec- The really good 2021 Chateau Suduiraut 'Lions du Suduiraut' Blanc Sec is a gorgeous effort that is already beautifully evolved after one year in the bottle. Better warmed up a bit, this Bordeaux Blanc reveals bright pear and gooseberry notes with shades of hay and wet stone on the nose. The palate is plush and nicely textured, with good weight and length. While great to savor right now, this has some serious aging potential. Drink 2022-2035- 92

Arterberry Maresh

I love old vine Oregon Pinot Noir. As we roll on in Oregon Wine Month we share with you one of the historic sites in the Willamette Valley. The famed Maresh Vineyard produces some of the great Pinot Noir fruit in the valley. The vineyard, which is the 5th oldest in Oregon, is mainly planted to Pommard and Wadenswil clones, with the oldest site located on Worden Hill Road.

Winemaker Jim Maresh is the third generation of the Maresh family working on the farm. 

I fondly recall tasting through these wines from my uncle’s Oregon wine collection more than a decade ago. They were wines that were well-structured and beautifully textured, with dense red fruits. These wines remain deeply seated under the radar but are not to be missed. 

I loved the wines across the board, starting with the fresh and vibrant 2018 Arterberry Maresh ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay (OB, 93) which is a beautifully textured bottling with a smooth mouthfeel. Do not miss out on the scintillating 2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Winemaker’s Reserve’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is a joy to consume now even in its youthful, red fruit-driven stage. Learn more about this historic site at https://www.mareshredbarn.com and here are my reviews of the brilliant new wines by Arterberry Maresh. 

2018 Arterberry Maresh ‘Dundee Hills’ Chardonnay- Sourced from vines first planted in 1983, this spent 12 months in French oak barrels and then a further six months in stainless steel drums before bottling. Bright pear and lemon rind tones fill the nose, with baking spice dusted Challah bread. The palate is vibrant, with serious tension. Lemon oil and kumquat flavors combine with minerals and sourdough bread flavors on the palate. Showing good length and viscosity, this beautiful new Chardonnay will cellar well for another decade and possibly more. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2018 Arterberry Maresh ‘Maresh’ Pinot Noir- Translucent in color, the 2018 Arterberry Maresh ‘Maresh’ Pinot Noir is a gorgeous, red fruit-driven bottling that is already nicely evolved at the four year mark. Highly perfumed on the nose, this takes on red rose petals and loganberry preserves with bright strawberry and peat moss undertones. The palate is wonderfully textured, with rich red fruits, wet stone and shades of forest floor. This is exceedingly delicious wine to consume now, as the 2018 Arterberry Maresh ‘Maresh’ Pinot Noir will provide drinking enjoyment for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2035- 94

2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Maresh’ Pinot Noir-A touch leaner and more linear than the 2018, yet very pretty, the 2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Maresh’ Pinot Noir is a fantastic effort from this somewhat challenging vintage for Oregon red wines. A plush texture greets you, as layers of medium bodied red fruits mingle with copious minerals and stony undertones.The finesse is outstanding, as is the good sense of length. Enjoy this beauty over the next ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 92

2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Old Vines’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Old Vines’ Pinot Noir is sourced from vines planted back in 1970 which neighbor their Red Barn tasting room. The aromatic range is outstanding from red cherry candy to pine needles, cran-orange, as well as shades of cardamom. The palate is soft and inviting, with plenty of mouth-watering acidity. Highly enjoyable now, savor this beauty over the next decade. Drink 2022-2033- 92

2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Weber Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The ‘Weber Vineyard’ is located near Worden Hill, as vines were first planted back in 1983. A whiff of volcanic soil greets you with leather, peat moss and bright red fruits on the nose. The palate is wonderfully earthy and Burgundian, with a silky smooth texture and generous length. Enjoy this beauty over the next twelve plus years. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Winemaker Reserve’ Pinot Noir- Translucent in color, the outstanding 2019 Arterberry Maresh ‘Winemaker Reserve’ Pinot Noir is a barrel selection from 1974 plantings. The nose is highly perfumed with red florals, black raspberry and suggestions of black tea with freshly tilled soils. The palate is deep and concentrated with serious stuffing considering the vintage. Really good after a few hours of air, try to resist this beauty for at least another year. Drink 2022-2038- 94

White Rose

I have so many fond memories about visiting White Rose, a top class producer of Oregon Pinot Noir. As we celebrate Oregon Wine Month, I wanted to remember the late Jesus Guillen who was one of my first winemaker interviews for Washington Wine Blog. He passed away way too early but I won’t forget his smile that would light up a room. His wines were just as ebullient.  

The new White Rose winemaker, Tresider Burns, comes from Brittan Vineyard pedigree, having trained under eminent winemaker Robert Brittan. Tresider is a great talent and I have been really impressed with his last two sets of wines, coming from the 2018 and now the 2019 vintage — one which was somewhat difficult for winemakers to navigate with inclement weather at harvest.

 The new release wines from the 2019 vintage by White Rose are gorgeous across the board. The 2019 White Rose ‘Neo-Classical Objective’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) is deep and concentrated from the whole cluster fermentation, as this rich, red fruit-dominated wine will cellar well for another fifteen years. Even better is the 2019 White Rose ‘White Rose Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 94) which is very sexy and delicate, with a soft texture and very pretty red fruits. Learn more about White Rose at https://whiteroseestate.com and if you are feeling generous, please consider donating to the family of Jesus Guillen here: https://www.gofundme.com/jesus-guillen

2020 White Rose ‘The Convivial Feast’ Chardonnay- An excellent new wine crafted by Tresider Burns, the 2020 White Rose ‘The Convivial Feast’ Chardonnay unveils wild mushroom, flint and shades of Pink Lady apple on the nose, with hints of baking spices. The palate is very fresh and nicely textured, as this lithe and polished effort is already nicely evolved. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2021 White Rose ‘The Convivial Feast’ White Pinot Noir- With just the slightest hint of Pink in the glass, this outstanding White Pinot Noir is fleshy and beautifully textured on the mouth. Showing beautiful length and flavor range, this moves from orchard fruits and red raspberry to honeydew melon and wet stone on the palate. Consume this beauty over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 White Rose ‘The Neo-Classical Objective’ Pinot Noir- The 2019 White Rose ‘The Neo-Classical Objective’ Pinot Noir underwent 100% whole cluster fermentation. The wine comes off very perfumed with potpourri and cran-orange tones with peat moss and volcanic stones. The wine is beautifully textured with good weight and viscosity once on the mouth. Rich red fruits with freshly tilled soils and cigar box tones combine on the palate. Enjoy this beautiful wine over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 93

2019 White Rose ‘Winemaker’s Cuvee’ Pinot Noir- Beautiful to savor even at the three year mark, the really good 2019 White Rose ‘Winemaker’s Cuvee’ Pinot Noir. Once on the nose this takes on black raspberry and pomegranate seed tones with shades of red currants and damp earth. The palate is soft and inviting with glorious tension, texture and flavor density. So well-balanced and inviting to consume now, this will surely cellar well over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 94

2019 White Rose ‘The White Rose Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from Pommard clonal selection Pinot Noir which was planted between 1977-1980, this estate vineyard is set on Jory soils. Red cherry candy, orange blossom and cinnamon sticks, with dusty soils all mark the nose. The palate is deep, concentrated, and filled with finesse. Rich red fruits march on with flavors of menthol, red rose water, wet stone and Shitakke mushroom. This very elegant and refined effort really needs an hour of air if enjoying now. 

2019 White Rose ‘Guillen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- Sourced from this Dundee Hills site named after the Guillen brothers, this beautiful 2019 Pinot Noir opens with peat moss and teaberry tones, alongside baking spices and tart red fruits. The palate is very soft and refined, with light tannins that frame a very pretty core of red cherry, pomegranate seed and guava. Gorgeous now, this also needs an hour or two in the decanter if enjoying in its  tension-filled youth. Drink 2022-2037- 94

Paraduxx

Napa is filled with Cabernet based wineries. But there are some other wineries that produce great wines that do not focus on high quality Cabernet Sauvignon. One of these highly unique wineries in Napa that focuses on capturing the art of blending a range of varietals, Paraduxx is located on the Silverado trail and was founded in 1994 by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn. Their first vintage was a unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot and Petite Sirah. Since that time there has been a surge in other blending projects.

Cardiff Scott-Robinson serves as Paraduxx winemaker and was formerly the assistant winemaker at Paraduxx. I really enjoyed his wines from the 2017 vintage. The 2019 Paraduxx ‘Rector Creek Vineyard Block 5’ Red Wine (OB, 94) which is a knockout wine that shows the softer side of Cabernet Franc, with lovely herbal tones and a soft mouthfeel. Learn more about these great wines at https://www.paraduxx.com/ Here are the great new releases by Paraduxx.

2019 Paraduxx ‘Rector Creek Vineyard Block 4’ Red Wine- The deep and brooding ‘Rector Creek Vineyard Block 5’ Red Wine- is mostly comprised of Petit Verdot (58%) with 38% Zinfandel and the reminder Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for eighteen months in 60% new French oak, this unveils coffee grounds and loganberry liquor tones on the nose, alongside green herbal undertones. The palate is smooth and inviting with a soft mouthfeel. Shades of black forest cake combine with dried herbs and espresso grounds on the palate. Drink 2022-2035- 93

2019 Paraduxx ‘Rector Creek Vineyard Block 5’ Red Wine- A Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel dominant wine, with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon included, the 2019 Paraduxx ‘Rector Creek Vineyard Block 5’ Red Wine was aged for eighteen months in 60% French oak prior to bottling. The nose shows very Cabernet Franc dominant with red bell pepper and tobacco leaf alongside shades of milk chocolate. This shows plenty of toasty oak but is downright delicious in its deep core of black fruits, dark chocolate shavings, graphite and dried herbs. Delicious to consume now, this has another ten to fifteen years ahead of it. Drink 2022-2035- 94

MacRostie Vineyards

One of the beautiful properties in the Russian River Valley, MacRostie was founded by fellow Whitman College graduate, Steve MacRostie.The winery focuses on high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and for years I have been impressed what they deliver in the bottle for the price. MacRostie Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have quite frankly been a regional pillar in value. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has a illustrious history in the wine industry having an undergraduate degree from the University of Colorado at Boulder. She has worked in the enology laboratory of Jackson Family Wines before working at Clos du Bois, Oyster Bay as well as Sonoma-Cutrer. She has a really good set of new release wines.

MacRostie sources from some great vineyards including Dutton Ranch, Sangiacomo, Martinelli and Bacigalupi, and from MacRostie’s Estate Wildcat Mountain Vineyard which was purchased decades back. I have always enjoyed wines from the ‘Wildcat Mountain Vineyard’ and this year’s rendition the 2020 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay (OB, 92) which is nicely textured and shows delicious orchard fruit flavors. I adore the new 2019 MacRostie ‘Thale’s Estate Vineyard’ Pinot Noir (OB, 93) which displays great depth and texture. Learn more about this great Sonoma winery at https://macrostiewinery.com/ Here are the great new wines by MacRostie.

2020 MacRostie ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay- Crafted from grapes from Carneros as well as the Petaluma Gap, this golden colored Chardonnay shows toasty oak with Macadamia nut tones alongside melon undercurrents. The palate is downright delicious, loaded with orchard and citrus fruits, with soft mouthfeel and wonderful length. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2019 MacRostie ‘Thale’s Estate Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The really good Thale’s Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir was sourced from vines up to 30 years of age.The nose is very alluring with red rose petals, cranberry and cola tones alongside freshly tilled soils. The palate is lithe and polished with great flavor complexity and flavor density. The wonderful length and soft texture adds to the enjoyment and this beautiful wine is truly singing its high octave in its youth. Drink 2022-2034- 93

Sin Banderas

Made from a great team in Washington wine, Sin Banderas was founded by four friends from different parts of the world who all met in Yakima while working together at Owen Roe. The wine is made at the Owen Roe custom crush facility. Sin Banderas winemaker, Jacki Evans, is originally from Texas and studied Biology at the University of Texas in Austin. She has over 10 years of winemaking experience with 15 harvests around the world, including Napa Valley of California, Willamette Valley of Oregon, the Great Southern of Western Australia, Barossa Valley of South Australia, Burgenland, Austria, and Marlborough, New Zealand.  She's been in the Yakima Valley of Washington State making wine with Owen Roe Winery since the 2013 vintage. 

The new wines by Sin Banderas were the best I have tasted yet.  I adored her 2021 Sin Banderas Riesling (OB, 92) which is deftly textured and has insanely good flavor range. The same is true with they 2021 Sin Banderas Rose (OB, 91) which is the best they have produced and is meant to be consumed at a slightly warmer temperature. Learn more about this new wine project at https://www.sinbanderaswines.com Here is my review of the Sin Banderas wines. 

2021 Sin Banderas Riesling- This Yakima Valley bottling was entirely sourced from the famed DuBrul Vineyard. Bone dry this offers a silky smooth texture once on the palate. Green papaya and Gravenstein apple flavors combine with honeycomb and wet stone undertones. Complex and deliciosu, enjoy this beautiful wine with sushi or shellfish. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2021 Sin Banderas Rose- Sporting a lovely bright salmon hue, the 2021 Sin Banderas Rose reveals a very refined palate with a smooth texture. Layers of honeydew melon, bright starfruit, kiwi and wild strawberry all combine brilliantly. This really needs to be served at a warmer temperature to engage the full range of flavors. Drink 2022-2027- 91

2019 Sin Banderas Red WIne- Inky in the glass, the 2019 Sin Banderas Red Wine is a Yakima Valley blend of mostly Syrah (67%) with the remainder Mourvedre. Black tea, iodine, exotic spices and creme de violette all parade on the nose. The palate is medium to full-bodied and is filled with black fruits, salty tones and plenty of tension. Refined to consume now, enjoy this beautiful wine over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 91

Sojourn Cellars

A Sonoma producer that crafts a fantastic range of wines, Sojourn Cellars was founded in 2001 as a partnership between two tennis buddies who discovered a mutual passion for great wine. At Sojourn Craig and Ellen Haserot work together with winemaker Erich Bradley, the former winemaker at Arrowood Winery in Sonoma. A native of Palo Alto, California, Erich has a degree in bio-chemistry from the esteemed University of Chicago and a degree in Philosophy and Modern European Intellectual History from the University of California at Irvine. Eric has crafted some consistently good Pinot Noir and Chardonnay over the past several years.

Erich has been mentored by eminent winemakers Arrowood and David Ramey and sources his wines from some fantastic California vineyards, including Gap’s Crown Vineyard and the Durell Vineyard. The new releases by Sojourn were really impressive considering the challenges of the 2020 vintage. Look to the 2020 Sojourn ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Chardonnay (OB, 90) which is nicely salty with good finesse. I adored the new 2019 Sojourn Cellars ‘Oakville Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 95) which is one of the finest wines I have tasted from this producer. This beauty will cellar well for decades to come and has amazing flavor density — a joy to drink right now. Learn more about these beautiful wines at http://www.sojourncellars.com Here are the great new wines by Sojourn Cellars.

2021 Sojourn Cellars Rose-Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this excellent 2021 Rose was fermented in stainless steel tanks and then bottled in February 2022. Salty undertones combine with ripe guava and strawberry tones. Delicious to consume now, enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2022-2025- 90

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Chardonnay- Produced from this famed vineyard in the Sonoma Coast AVA, this was aged in only 30% new French oak before bottling. Very salty, this reveals a soft texture with lighter pear and white peach flavors. Drink now. Drink 2022-2025- 90

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Durell Vineyard’ Chardonnay- An old Wente Clone Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast AVA, the ‘Durell Vineyard’ Chardonnay is sourced from blocks planted back in the 1990s. The palate is soft and salty, showing medium-bodied Japanese pear flavors that mingle with salty minerals. This is done in a lighter, less intense style than other vintages. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Reuling Vineyard’ Chardonnay- The 2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Reuling Vineyard’ Chardonnay comes from vines first planted back in 2000. Right away this unveils light to medium intensity brioche and toasty oak tones alongside shades of starfruit on the palate, with salty and peat moss undercurrents. Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir shows cola and red currant flavors with a slightly bitter edge. Drink now. Drink 2022-2026- 89

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Gap’s Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- An outstanding site for Pinot Noir, Sojourn sources their wine from a range of clonal selections. This wine shows really nice flavor density considering the vintage. Ripe red and black fruit parade with tar and pine needles, with salty undercurrents. Enjoy this over the next five plus years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Ridgetop Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The delicious 2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Ridgetop Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was stored in 50% new French oak prior to bottling. Red cherry and salted strawberry flavors mingle with loamy soils on the palate. Great now, consume this over the next five years. Drink 2022-2027- 91

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Walala Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- This Sonoma Coast AVA Pinot Noir unveils nice salty character once on the palate. The soft mouthfeel entices as mouth-watering red fruits greet you, alongside a good beam of tension. Drink this soon. Drink 2022-2027- 91

2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Riddle Vineyard’ Pinot Noir- The 2020 Sojourn Cellars ‘Riddle Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was stored in 50% new French oak before bottling. This Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir reveals a soft mouthfeel and good length with light red fruit flavors and citrus rind undertones. This is a commendable effort considering the challenges of the vintage. Drink 2022-2026- 90

2019 Sojourn Cellars ‘Oakville’ Cabernet Sauvignon- Just a touch (2%) of Petit Verdot was added to this Cabernet Sauvignon which underwent native yeast fermentation and then was stored in 75% new French oak before bottling. Dark current cordial, coffee grounds and shades of mocha all fill the palate, with good concentration and length. Very nicely textured, with refined tannins, this beautiful wine will cellar well easily over the next fifteen years. But why wait? Drink 2022-2037- 93

2019 Sojourn Cellars ‘Oakville Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- The seriously good 2019 Sojourn Cellars ‘Oakville Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon is a stunning new wine that is built to age but also is appealing in its hedonistic youth. Stored in 75% new French oak, this gives off a touch of toasty wood, alongside blackberry pie and black forest cake tones on the nose, with loamy soil undercurrents. Once on the mouth this displays a beam of tension that plays well with refined tannins and a deep core of dark fruit flavors, with espresso ground accents. Give this at least an hour of air if consuming now. Drink 2022-2042- 95

Laurent Perrier 'Grand Siècle' Champagne

One of the famed wines in the world, the ‘Grand Siecle’ is Laurent Perrier’s tête de cuvée which is blended from a host of vintages and also crafted from only grand cru vineyards. Established in 1812, Laurent Perrier is located in the heart of Champagne, in Tours-sur-Marne. Vines are set on limestone soil, highly chalky and showing the distinctiveness of the region. The chalk subsoil holds sufficient water, during dry spells and due its porous nature also provides good drainage when it is wet to prevent roots of becoming water logged, acting a bit like a sponge.

To produce Laurent-Perrier's new Grand Siecle No. 25 chef du cave Michel Fauconnet has blended wines from the 2008, 2007, and 2006 vintages. This wine is truly one of the finest tête de cuvée wines in the world. This wine is irresistible to enjoy right now but will also provide drinking enjoyment for decades to come. Here is my review of the new Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle No. 25 Grand Siècle Champagne. Learn more about this historic Champagne house at http://www.laurent-perrier.com/en/the-wines/

Laurent Perrier ‘Grand Siecle No. 25’ Champagne- The ‘Grand Siecle’ No.25 is mostly from the 2008 vintage (65%) with smaller parts from the 2007 (25%) and 2006 (10%). A blend of 60% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir, this comes from a selection of 9 Grand Cru Vineyards. The nose is wonderfully complex with lemon zest dusted biscuit and shades of kumquat blossom and salted cashew. The palate is deep and concentrated with plenty of weight and finesse. Gorgeous now, this will easily age for another fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2022-2038- 97

Caliza

Wines that seem to be getting better and better, Caliza, Spanish for "limestone", connects the name to the 20-acre Caliza vineyard located on the west side of Paso Robles. The vineyard is predominantly comprised of hillsides with south-facing slopes which leads to maximum sun exposure.. Set at 900-1200 feet above sea level in Templeton Gap area, the vineyard faces strong diurnal shifts which creates some nice tension in the wines. 

Caliza is spearheaded by Carl and Pam Bowker, who planted near L’Aventure and Booker. I had a great vineyard tour to this site and sat down with Carl Bowker, who graduated from Napa Valley College’s Viticulture and Enology associate program in 2004. One year later he purchased this exciting site and started the winery. The wines get better and better, as I have been so impressed with his winemaking style that is big and bold, with bright acidity. Check out the gorgeous 2019 Caliza ‘Sidekick’ White Wine (OB, 93) which is mostly Roussanne and shows a golden color and rich texture. I adored the new 2019 Caliza Grenache (OB, 94) which has serious freshness and a great acid backbone. The flavor range here is insanely good. Learn more about this great Paso Robles winery at https://www.calizawinery.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Caliza. 

2021 Caliza ‘Kissin’ Cousins’ white Wine- A blend of equal parts Viognier and Marsanne (37% each) with 26% Grenche Blanc, this unveils lychee with star jasmine and hints of white peach on the nose. The wine shows really good balance, as you can see the working parts moving marvelously together. Displaying plenty of finesse with good depth, the 2021 ‘Kissin’ Cousins’ will be providing drinking enjoyment over the next five plus years. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2019 Caliza ‘Sidekick’ White Wine- Mainly Roussaanne (80%), this shows off a deep golden hue, this spent ten months in new and neutral oak and a considerable amount of time in the bottle prior to being released in fall 2021. Honeycomb and starfruit tones mingle on the nose with shades of baking spice dusted Challah bread. The salty character of the wine really strikes you, as this is deep and concentrated, yet produces gobs of mouth-watering acidity. Drink this beautiful wine over the next six plus year. Drink 2022-2028- 93

2021 Caliza ‘Pink’ Rose- Mostly Grenache (75%), with a smaller portion Mourvedre, this shows off a very pretty salmon color with bright strawberry, honeydew melon and shades of wild mushroom on the nose. With a kiss of sweetness, this unveils a wonderfully rich mouthfeel and really long finish. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2019 Caliza Grenache- This 100% varietal bottling by Carl Bowker unveils very pretty high-tones with the red rose petals that combine with orange blossom and red cherry cordial. The palate is deep and concentrated with a great core of red fruits that combine with loamy soils and shades of white pepper. The bright acidity holds everything together. This is outstanding wine to consume now, as the 2019 Caliza Grenache will drink well beyond the ten years mark. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 Caliza ‘Azimuth’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘Azimuth’ combines 40% Mourvedre and 40% Grenache with the remainder Syrah. The Mourvedre was 60% whole cluster fermented. BBQ short ribs and green peppercorns mingle with garrigue notes and boysenberry tones on the nose. The palate is plush and beautifully textured, showing great poise and weight. The range of fruit quality from red to black fruits and even hints of black truffle all impress on the palate. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 Caliza Mourvedre- The Moruvedre for this wine underwent 60% whole cluster fermentation, as the wine was stored in 45% new French oak (mostly puncheons) prior to bottling. White pepper dusted bacon and menthol notes combine with freshly tilled soils on the nose, as this shows compelling aromatic range. The palate is fresh and inviting, showing off its pillowy texture. The combination of weight and finesse both meld beautifully together. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2017 Caliza ‘Cohort’ Red Wine- This wine is barrel aged for eighteen months in 45% new French oak  but then spent 1.5 years in the bottle before release. A bend of 58% Petite Syrah with smaller parts Syrah and Mourvedre, this 100% estate wine unveils blueberry pie with milk chocolate and dried herbs and shades of beef drippings. The palate is deeply concentrated but shows bright acidity. Drink 2022-2034- 94

2019 Caliza Primitivo- This has 10% Petit Sirah blended in with 5% Mourvedre, as the wine spent 18 months in all neutral French oak before bottling. This screams Zin on the nose with bramble and bright red fruits that combine with chocolate cake and dried herbal undercurrents. The palate shows great finesse and layers of rich red and dark fruits, with salty accents. Drinks 2022-2032- 93

2019 Calizsa ‘Sympatico’ Red Wine- Mostly Tempranillo (80%) with 14% Grenache and 6% Mourvedre, this unveils toasty oak with ripe red currants, red rose petals and tobacco leaf notes aromatically. The soft texture entices, as does the outstanding sense of length and rich core of red fruits. Drink 2022-2032- 93

2018 Caliza ‘Estate’ Syrah- This is their highest production wine, as the 2018 ‘Estate’ Syrah shows up deeply concentrated once in the glass, as this was aged in 60% new French oak pror to bottling. The nose comes off very smoky and savory with bacon fat and cigar box notes alongside shades of black currant cordial. The palate is plush and soft, as the concentration and finesse holds in place this beautiful black-fruit driven wine. Drink 2022-2032- 94

Beckmen Vineyards

Beckmen Vineyards 

A longstanding property in Santa Barbara wine country, I first visited Beckmen Vineyards more than ten years ago on a trip with friends. Beckmen was started by Tom and Judy Beckmen who were pioneers in the electronic music business as founders of Roland Corp, US. The winery began back in 1994 as their wines have even been served at the White House.

Their estate vineyard is located in the Bal­lard Canyon AVA and is a 365 acre (125 acres plant­ed), cer­ti­fied Bio­dy­nam­ic site named the Purisi­ma Moun­tain Vine­yard. Com­prised most­ly of clay and clay loam, with vary­ing amounts of grav­el, this site also has lime­stone sub­soil. The new wines by Beckmen were really good across the board. I love the new fresh, polished and soft 2019 Beckmen Grenache (OB, 91) which is already nicely evolved and has a nice light citrus component. The 2019 Beckmen Syrah (OB, 93) is dense and beautifully textured with seriously good range. Learn more about this great Santa Barbara County winery at beckmenvineyards.com and here are my reviews of the new Beckmen wines. 

2020 Ingredient Sauvignon Blanc- Sourced from the Pursima Mountain Vineyard, this was aged for ten months on the skins in amphora and then saw a year of bottle age prior to release. The wine comes off very sour and out of balance, with lemon pit, lime zest and white grapefruit, alongside some nutty undercurrents. Nicely textured, enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2022-2026- 88

2019 Ingredient Syrah- The 2019 Ingredient Syrah also saw ten months of skin contact, as a touch of Viognier (2.5%) was blended in. The palate is soft, inviting and very nuanced. Red cherry candy, red licorice, white pepper and smoky undertones all combine nicely, as the smooth texture adds to the enjoyment. Drink 2022-2029- 90

2020 Beckmen ‘Purisima Mountain’ Viognier- This 2020 Viognier reveals light flinty and silty tones alongside gooseberry and sweetened pear flavors with shades of honeysuckle. Medium-bodied, enjoy now. Drink 2022-2025- 89

2019 Beckmen ‘Purisma Mountain’ Grenache- Aged in 37% new French oak, this 2019 Grenache unveils red cherry candy and red florals on the nose with shades of kumquat rind. The palate is neatly textured with loads of bright red fruits, with a strong acid backbone. This is already nicely evolved stuff. Drink 2022-2029- 91

2020 Beckmen ’Cuvee le Bee’ Red Wine- A blend of mostly Syrah (51%) and Grenache (38%), the 2020 ‘Cuvee le Bee’ reveals medium-bodied black fruit flavors with smoke, leather and shades of garrigue on the palate. The level of mouth-watering acidity adds to the enjoyment. Enjoy this delicious, hard to put down value wine over the next several years. Drink 2022-2028- 91

2019 Beckmen ‘Purisma Mountain’ Syrah-The really good 2019 Beckmen ‘Purisma Mountain’ Syrah was aged in 37% new French oak prior to bottling and immediate gratifies with crushed green peppercorns and smoked meats on the nose, with black currant undertones. The palate is beautifully textured and inviting, loaded with mouth-watering acidity, salty stones and rich dark fruit flavors. Enjoy this beautiful and novel expression of Syrah over the next decade. Drink 2022-2032- 93

Copia Vineyards

One of the exciting newer properties that I have tasted over the past few months, Copia Vineyards relies on their estate vineyard on the westside of Paso Robles which was established in 2019. Currently 20 total acres are planted to Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot. They also sourced from great outside vineyards such as Denner and Bien Naceido Vineyards. 

Founded by Varinder Sahi and Anita Kothari who both had separate careers prior to starting their winery, Copia has impressed with their latest set of releases which focus on the 2018 vintage. They crafted a beautiful new 2020 Rose (OB, 90) which has a touch of sweetness and beautiful texture and bright acidity. I love the 2018 Copia ‘The Source’ Syrah (OB, 93) which is dense and inky — downright delicious to consume right now. Learn more about this outstanding winery at https://www.copiavineyards.com and here are my reviews of the new wines from Copia. 

2020 Copia Rose- A mostly Grenache based blend (73%) with 25% Syrah and splash of Mourvedre, this fresh and lively Rose shows plenty of minerals with sweetened strawberry, orange zest and melon flavors. Drink 2022-2024- 90

2020 Copia ‘White’ White Wine- Sourced form 45% Chardonnay with 35% Roussanne and the remainder Viognier, this beautiful wine shows off a silky textured with buttercream and shortbread flavors alongside wet stone, cantaloupe and white peach. Drink 2022-2026- 91

2018 Copia ‘The Story’ Grenache- Soft, round and generous with its silky texture, the 2018 ‘The Story’ shows off sexy rose water flavors alongside red cherry preserves and raspberry coulis on the palate. Drink 2022-2028- 93

2019 Copia ‘The Story’ Grenache- A blend of 92% Grenache with the remainder Syrah, the 2019 ‘The Story’ shows. Off white pepper dusted bacon flavors alongside a brilliant core of red fruits and stony undertones on the palate. Full-bodied, fresh and voluptuous to consume in its youth, this has another eight to ten years of drinking enjoyment to go. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2018 Copia ‘The Cure’ Red Wine- The 2018 ‘The Cure’ blends near equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Soft and approachable now, with smoked pork shoulder, blackberry compote, tar and pretty red fruits with orange rind accents, this complex and delicious wine will drink well for another decade. Drink 2022-2031- 93

2019 Copia ‘The Cure’ Red Wine- The 2019 ‘The Cure’ has 7% Grenache blended in to the remainder Syrah. Full-bodied with good structure and plenty of smoky and savory tones, this beautiful wine is drinking great now and has another decade of life ahead of it. Drink 2022-2029- 92

2018 Copia ‘The Source’ Syrah- Just a touch of Grenache is blended into this wine that is mainly sourced from the Jespersen Ranch Vineyard. The resultant wine is very smoky and savory with bright acidity and a soft mouthfeel. Layers of huckleberry and red currants combine with stony minerals and smoked meats on the palate. Drink 2022-2029- 93

2019 Copia ‘The Source’ Syrah- The 2019 ‘The Source’ displays ripe black cherry liquor, cigar ash and hints of beef brisket on the palate. Full-bodied, with a good acid backbone, this beautiful wine has another decade or more to go. Drink 2022-2031- 93

2019 Copia Cabernet Sauvignon- This limited production Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the Willow Creek District. The palate reveals loads of black and blue fruits with Earl Grey tea, exotic spices and pencil lead alongside dusty earthy undertones. Gorgeous in its youth, this has another decade or more to go. Drink 2022-2031-92

Tablas Creek

Tasting across from Tablas Creek general manager Jason Haas, we both simultaneously grinned after tasting the first wine. “You won’t find this one anywhere else” said Haas. “Other than at Beaucastel.” Hass was referring to the near extinct Picardin varietal which he brought over from Chateau Beaucastel to revive its heritage. I’ll fully admit this was the first Picardin that I had tasted but there was something really exciting about its rich texture and nutty tones. “I don’t think I’ve had anything quite like this” I exclaimed. 

For those less familiar with Tablas Creek, they are a premier producer of Rhone varietals in Paso Robles. The winery started as an iconic partnership between Chateau Beaucastel and Robert Haas, owner of their United States importer, Vineyard Brands. I won’t forget my 2020 tasting with Haas over Zoom, tasting through a range of their spectacular ‘Espirit de Tablas.’ These wines can age well over fifteen years!

The Tablas Creek Vineyard began when Jean-Pierre and François Perrin and Robert Haas purchased a former alfalfa farm that is set on limestone soils in the Adelaida Hills. From the beginning they focused on Rhône-style wines made organically. The first plantings took place in1994 and the first Tablas Creek Vineyard wines produced in 1997. The winery has been an incredible success since that time, reaching worldwide acclaim particularly for their Rhone style red and white blends.

I loved the new 20201Tablas Creek ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Rose (OB, 91) which is fresh and filled of energy. It just could be the best ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Rose that I have tasted and it is a downright killer bottle.  Do not miss out on the bright and vibrant, as well as beautifully textured 2021 Tablas Creek ‘Dianthus’ Rose (OB, 93) which is up there with the finest Rose wines you will find in North America. The white wines from Tablas showed a great combination of power and finesse. Finesse might have been a bit more difficult to come by in 2020 but I loved the minerality impated in the 2020 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc (OB, 93) which is bright and shows gobs of mouth-watering acidity. The best wine I tasted and one of the finest Rhone style white wines I have tasted in California over the past year, the 2020 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit Blanc de Tablas’ White Wine (OB, 96) displays incredible flavor density, mouthfeel and complexity. It needs at least an hour of air if consuming now and will live on for at least another fifteen years. Learn more about these outstanding wines at https://tablascreek.com Here are the outstanding new wines by Tablas Creek.  

2021 Tablas Creek ‘Patelin de Tablas’ Rose- Mostly Grenache (79%), this shows wild mushroom and bright red fruits with shades of orange blossom on the nose. The bright acidity brings you back to the glass for more. Vibrant red cherry, strawberry and guava favors combine with copious minerals on the palate. This displays wonderful finesse so drink up now! Drink 2022-2026- 91

2021 Tablas Creek ‘Dianthus’ Rose-  A blend of near equal parts Mourvedre (42%) and Grenache (42%), with smaller parts Counoise and Cinsault, this reveals very earthy tones with compost and Bing cherry with nectarine and cashew nut tones that all take shape in the glass. The palate is deep and concentrated, as this is dense but comes off very weightless with its pretty red fruit profile. Drink 2022-2029- 93

2020 Tablas Creek Picardan- Tablas Creek has the most production of this varietal, as there is not much literature on the grape. Aged in stainless steel, this shows nutty and pear tones with plenty of minerals and a silky texture on the palate. Drink 2022-2027- 92

2019 Tablas Creek Clairette Blanc-This varietal has seen a revival in both Chateauneuf du Pape and North America, as this was aged for eight months in stainless steel before being bottled in June 2020. White flowers and citrus blossom combine with cashew nut and kiwi on the nose. The palate shows beautiful finesse and texture, as the wine comes off very seamless and pure. Salty undertones round out this sensational new wine. Drink 2022-2029- 94

2020 Tablas Creek Picpoul Blanc- The really good 2020 Tablas Creek Picpoul Blanc was stored for eight months in stainless steel prior to bottling. Sweetened gooseberry and nectarine combine with shades of green papaya on the nose. The mouthfeel and texture of this wine comes off velvety and soft, as this finishes very long. The bight acidity of thawing really impresses as this is beautiful to consume over the next six plus years. Drink 2022-2028- 93

2020 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc- The 2020 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc was stored in half half large format oak barrels and half stainless steel vats prior to bottling. The nose is complex with mixed nuts and star jasmine and bright Bartlett pear. The wine shows beautiful texture and minerality, with a lengthy finish. This gorgeous new wine will be sure to cellar well for another eight years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2020 Tablas Creek Viognier- The 2020 Tablas Creek Viognier was stored in half half large format oak barrels and half stainless steel vats prior to bottling. Honeysuckle, mango and starfruit tones all come together on the nose. The palate is soft and round, with lovely salty tones alongside melon and starfruit flavors. This has some incredible aging potential. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2020 Tablas Creek Marsanne- This was the last Rhone varietal for Tablas Creek to bottle as a single varietal. Aged in neutral oak puncheons prior to bottling, this unveils banana and salted Macadamia nut tones alongside shades of honeycomb. Fresh and beautifully textured, this has outstanding weight, length and finesse. Only 12% alcohol. Drink 2022-2030- 94

2020 Tablas Creek Roussanne- The 2020 Tablas Creek Roussanne was stored in roughly 10% new French oak prior to bottling. A golden hue, this reveals cantaloupe and white peach, alongside wild mushroom and Pink Lady apple on the nose. The palate is soft and inviting with a silky texture and length that doesn’t quit. This is blow your mind stuff that has terrific aging potential. Drink 2022-2033- 95

2020 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit Blanc de Tablas’ White Wine- This sensational southern Rhone style wine blends 46% Roussanne and 28% Grenache Blanc with smaller parts Picpoul, Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche and Picardin. The aromatic range is off the charts with banana, honeydew melon, salted nuts and shades of kiwi. The thrilling 2020 Tablas Creek ‘Espirit Blanc de Tablas’ White Wine unveils a multitude of working pieces once on the palate, ranging from tropical fruits to melon and stone fruits. Salty and very savory, wait for the minute-long finish! This is hugely complex and also highly delicious Rhone style wine that will easily cellar well for another fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 96

ROCO RMS Vertical Tasting

During the heat of the pandemic in 2020 on Zoom I sat beside Rollin Soles, Oregon’s sparkling wine master. Rollin transformed the wine program at Argyle, putting them on the national stage before starting his own winery, ROCO. Rollin comes off as extremely kind-hearted and has a wonderful sense of humor. I’ve been fortunate to have tasted his Argyle wines back to the late 1990s, as the ‘Extended Tirage’ wines that he made were some of the finest bubbles you will find in North America. 

With the 2013 vintage Rollin was able to craft his first sparkling wine for his label, the ‘RMS.’ As a wine critic I was unabashedly licking my chops when I found out that Rollin was going to make aged sparkling wine. RMS wines are aged for 2.5 years before being disgorged. Rollin has had great success with his ROCO wines as he and his wife sold their winery to Santa Margarita winery earlier in 2022. There is very good reason why these giants of Italy took interest in this winery that has been consistently producing great wines.

Tasting through all of the vintages of ‘RMS’ I was floored with the overall quality of the wines, regardless of vintage. 2013 was a great year for early ripening varietals and was only marred from the rain event which happened after Chardonnay and grapes for sparkling wines were picked. The 2013 ‘RMS’ (OB, 95) is wonderfully nutty and salty, with beautiful finesse. Even more geared towards weight, but equally good, the 2014 ‘RMS’ (OB, 95) is massive especially at a warmer temperature and comes off as very Dom Perignon meets Oregon. The best wine I sampled was the 2015 ‘RMS’ (OB, 96) which is up there with the best sparkling wine in North America that I have tasted in the past year. This is also very bold and rich, but has a brilliant veil of tension that holds everything marvelously in place. What a wine! Learn more about these incredible wines at rocowinery.com and here are my notes from the brilliant ‘RMS’ sparkling wines by ROCO. 

2013 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- The first vintage of this wine is now an immense success nearly a decade later in 2022. Looking at the golden hue, suggests this will be a rich and decadent effort, mainly comprised of Pinot Noir (65%). Now fully mature, this is brilliantly evolved stuff that moves into wild mushroom and peat moss flavors alongside shades of baking spice dusted starfruit, hazelnut and salty brioche. The tension and sense of salinity that runs though the core of the wine adds to the intrigue. Drink this beauty over the next six to eight years. Drink 2022-2028- 95

2014 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- Deeply concentrated, the stunning 2014 ‘RMS’ builds with biscuit and ripe pear tones with cashew nut rounding out aromatically. The bubbles presence is very light. The power from the Pinot Noir (67%) is really shining, as the wine has very broad shoulders. The salinity and finesse captivates, leading to the exceedingly long finish. What a stunning warm vintage sparkling wine that is drinking right in its wheelhouse. Drink 2022-2029- 95

2015 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- The really good 2015 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine blends 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Intriguingly the Chardonnay is shining very brightly with its lemon oil, lychee, and toasted hazelnuts. The flavor density here is extraordinarily good as the light effervescence and flinty undercurrents round out this flamboyant, sensationally good bottling. Enjoy this stunning wine over the next eight plus years. Drink 2022-2031- 96

2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- Unabashedly big, the 2016 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine is a knockout blend of 70% Pinot Noir with the remainder Chardonnay. Still very fresh, with serious finesse, with lemon zest dusted Challah bread, banana, marzipan and shades of pink grapefruit. Plump and round on the mouth, and finishing very long, this will easily cellar well for another ten years. Drink 2022-2032- 95

2017 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- The 2017 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine is a stunning cooler vintage wine that is already beautifully evolved. Sourced from the Madrona Hill, Marsh Estate, Gran Moraine and Blossom Ridge Vineyards, this reveals Gravenstein apple and nutmeg infused Challah bread notes on the nose, with hints of salted praline. The palate reveals very refined bubbles and a soft mousse that impresses upon entry. A gorgeous range of citrus, and melon fruits combine with baking spice dusted Golden Delicious apple flavors. Refined, and rich, this highly memorable bottling will sure to satisfy over the next fifteen years. Drink 2022-2037- 95

2018 ROCO ‘RMS’ Sparkling Wine- Even more big and dense than the 2017 edition, but every bit as good, the gorgeous 2018 ROCO deftly showcases the wonderful weight and tension produced in this warm vintage. Once on the mouth, the soft sense of texture and refined mousse entices. Layers of buttered brioche and lemon rind combine with notes of cardamom, baked pear and light flinty undercurrents. Complex and delicious now, this has at least another fifteen years in front of it. Drink 2022-2037- 95

Toil Oregon

It was back a decade ago in 2012 when Toil Oregon was first released with a minuscule production of 200 cases. Then in 2016 Chris Figgins planted his estate vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. His first wine fully from his estate vineyard was the 2019 Rose. I think this property has tremendous potential.

The wines have been improving since the first vintage and I am very excited to see how these wines evolve as the vines grow in age. Chris’s Rose wines are very serious. These are stand-alone wines that liken the nuance of Domaine Ott, Domaine Tempier and other great Provencale bottlings that show not only ripe red fruits but gorgeous non-fruit tones and vibrant acidity. They need air and warmth.

Over the past five years Chris Figgins has crafted one of the finest Rose wines that you will find in the Pacific Northwest. This is nuanced, highly geeky Rose that improves with air and should be served at a warmer temperature to take in the sensational range of flavors and aromatics. I adored the new 2021 Toil Oregon Rose (OB, 93) is loaded with bright red fruits and seriously good finesse. Learn more about this great winery at toiloregon.com Here are the brilliant new wines by Toil Oregon. 

2021 Toil Oregon Rose- Made from Pinot Noir grapes, this 2021 Rose follows the long line of top Rose bottlings from Toil. Stored for four months in neutral French oak barrels, this shows off its vibrant pink color in the glass, steadily unveiling layers of watermelon and cantaloupe fruits that combine with white peach and stony undercurrents on the nose. The palate is soft and seamless, with just a kiss of sweetness. Showing insanely good range from strawberry and Yakima cherry to guava, lemon rind and wild mushroom, this is a Rose that stands tall amongst the best in the Pacific Northwest. Wait for the exceedingly long finish! Drink 2022-2029- 93

2020 Toil Oregon Chardonnay- The concentrated 2020 Toil Oregon Chardonnay spent ten months in 15% new French oak barrels and puncheons prior to bottling. Lemon zest and kiwi flavors meld with shades of buttercream on the palate. Give this at least an hour of air for everything to fully fill in, Enjoy over the next several years. Drink 2022-2028- 92

2020 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir- The 2021 Toil Oregon Pinot Noir shows good stuffing and structure, with cranberry, orange rind and sour cherry flavors that combine with volcanic soils on the palate. This builds considerably after an hour in the decanter. Enjoy over the next few years. Drink 2022-2026- 91

Jackson Family Purchases First Vineyard in Washington State

Big news out of Santa Rosa, California today as Jackson Family Wines has acquired from Abeja Winery 61 acres of an existing 117-acre property located in Mill Creek in the eastern region of Washington’s Walla Walla Valley. Abeja will retain ownership of 56 unplanted acres and will plant new vines there next year. Jackson Family Wines and Abeja will jointly  announce a name for the vineyard at a later date.

This is the first acquisition in Washington for the Jackson family and complements the company’s existing holdings in the Pacific Northwest, namely in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Over the next several years the family plans to develop a Washington-based operation. Wines produced from the vineyard will be made by winemaker Chris Carpenter and his team as part of a new brand currently under development.

“We know Walla Walla Valley is an exceptional region in North America for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and this particular site in Mill Creek possesses ideal conditions in terms of soils, elevation and climate,” says Christopher Jackson, second-generation proprietor of Jackson Family Wines. “We are thrilled by the opportunity to join an esteemed group of vintners in the Walla Walla Valley who have proven the incredible potential for wines from this region. Much like our previous ventures into great winegrowing regions like Willamette Valley in Oregon, Stellenbosch in South Africa, and McLaren Vale in Australia, we are humbled to be among an elite class of wineries and look forward to integrating ourselves into the community even more and producing wines of the highest caliber.”

Carpenter will oversee all winemaking and viticulture and Jackson Family Wines will assume all aspects of farming operations of the 61-acre property as he will be supported by winemaker Gianna Ghilarducci and vineyard manager Rafael Jimenez. We wanted to offer our heartfelt congratulations for Jackson Family on this new venture into Washington. 

Quilceda Creek Donates White Wine Proceeds To Charity

News out of Snohomish, Washington today, as Quilceda Creek has pledged to donate 100% of profits from their new 2020 Quilceda Creek Horse Heaven Hills Sauvignon Blanc (100%) and 2020 Quilceda Blanc Columbia Valley White Wine (66% Semillon, 34% Sauvignon Blanc) to World Central Kitchen. These sensational wines were recently rated 95 points and 97 points by myself, making them some of the top wines out of roughly 1K wines tasted in my Vinous Washington Report.

World Central Kitchen is a nonprofit founded by famed chef Jose Andres’ nonprofit World Central Kitchen, which began serving hot meals within hours of the initial invasion of Ukraine and quickly set up at the eight border crossings with Poland.

I wanted to offer my heartfelt congratulations for this incredible gesture by Quilceda Creek director of winemaking Paul Golitzin and his team.

Iron Horse

One of the most beautiful wineries in Sonoma County, Iron Horse is perched atop a hill in the Green Valley. Back in 2002 I knew little about wines but had a chance to visit this stunning location which is located roughly 13 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Iron Horse has roughly 160 acres set on Gold Ridge soils and planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and boasts an expansive high quality sparkling wine collection if you are a bubbles lover.

The winery was founded by Audrey and Barry Sterling in 1976 and gained international success for its Sparkling Wines, which have been served at the White House for five consecutive Presidential Administrations, beginning with the historic Reagan-Gorbachev Summit Meetings ending the Cold War. It has become one of the great sparkling wine houses in North America.

I loved the new wines by Iron Horse including the outstanding new ‘Wedding Cuvée’ which is aged on average three years. The 201 ‘Wedding Cuvee’ (OB, 92) is fresh and vibrant with a silky texture. This one also has some really good aging potential. Learn more about this great house for Sparkling Wine at ironhorsevineyards.com Here are my reviews of the ‘Wedding Cuvee’ wines by Iron Horse.

2018 Iron Horse ‘Wedding Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine- The 2018 Iron Horse ‘Wedding Cuvee’ Sparkling Wine is mostly Pinot Noir (81%) and was aged on the lees for three years prior to disgorgement. Rich Japanese pear and kiwi flavors linger with salty minerals on the palate. Showing good length and weight, this has the potential to cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 92

2019 Iron Horse ‘Audrey’ Chardonnay- Named after Iron Horse co-founder Audrey Sterling, the really good 2019 ‘Audrey’ Chardonnay is a limited production bottling from their Green Valley Estate which utilizes Rued clonal selection. Lemon zest dusted sourdough bread and cardamom fill the nose alongside shades of peat moss. The palate is very soft and elegant, with a silky texture and beautiful sense of length. Very seamless throughout the drinking experience, this is already nicely evolved Chardonnay that will cellar well over the next eight to ten years. Drink 2022-2030- 93

2018 Iron Horse ‘Gold Ridge’ Pinot Noir- Named after the soil type at their estate Green Valley Vineyard, the 2018 ‘Gold Ridge’ exudes class with cran-pomegranate and Bing cherry aromas that collide with baking spices on this evocative bouquet. The palate is soft and elegant with a voluptuous texture, unveiling a great range of tart red fruits and citrus embers, alongside freely tilled soils. Finishing long, this is broad-shouldered and generous, yet nicely structured Pinot Noir that is built to age. Drink 2022-2036- 93

Joy Anne Sterling serves as Iron Horse CEO.

J. Lohr

One of the longstanding producers of value California wine, J. Lohr dates back to the 1960s, Jerry Lohr began searching for a great location plant his first vineyard. Originally raised on a South Dakota farm, Jerry had a background in agriculture and chose the Central Coast, which was an experimental region at the time. Jerry has created an amazing success story with his winery, J. Lohr. J. Lohr offers a unique range of really well-riced wines, from limited production wines to 8,000 case production wines. I love the current offerings by them which impress and offer seriously good value.

I love the new top Cabernet Sauvignon bottlings by J. Lohr. These are powerful wines with good acidity and aging potential. One of the best wines I have tasted from this winery, the 2018 J. Lohr ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon (OB, 94) shows massive cellaring potential. This beautifully textured wine is not for the weary and has generous oak and deep dark fruit flavors. Check out more about this outstanding lineup at https://www.jlohr.com Here are the brilliant new top Cabernet wines by J. Lohr. 

2018 J. Lohr ‘Carol’s Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon- This deeply concentrated wine was sourced from the ‘Carol’s Vineyard’ which is located in Saint Helena. This has a touch of Petit Verdot blended in as the wine was stored in 60% new French oak before bottling. Black currant liquor and chocolate flavors mingle with shades of loamy soils and black tea on the palate. Not for the weary, this beautifully textured effort will live on for at least another decade. Drink 2022-2034- 92 

2018 J. Lohr ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon- First made in homage to Jerry Lohr’s 80th birthday, this new edition is nearly all Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from the Beck Vineyard which is set at 1700 feet. Stored in 100% new French oak from coopers Sylvain, Nadalie, and Taransaud, this is quite inky in the glass with a massive wall of dark fruit flavors alongside espresso bean and loamy, salty soils. Complex and hedonistic to enjoy now, this has both the weight and finesse to cellar well for another decade or more. But why wait?  Drink 2021-2033- 94